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The preparation and characterization of emulsions with the addition of tannic acid and gallic acid 加入单宁酸和没食子酸的乳剂的制备与表征
Pub Date : 2022-04-12 DOI: 10.2174/2666779701666220412085825
B. Kaczmarek-Szczepańska, A. Kozak, Lidia Zasada
Polyphenols are natural compounds that show bioactive properties such as antioxidants. Thereby their application in the cosmetic industry may be considered.Tannic acid and gallic acid were used as an additive for emulsion preparation. The microscope observation was carried out to study the formation of the droplets. Also, the polyphenols release from the emulsion, its antioxidant activity and the color parameters were studied.The results showed that the addition of polyphenols decreased the droplets’ diameter. Each emulsion showed antioxidant activity; however, the most effective was formulation containing 5% additive of gallic acid. The addition of tannic acid and gallic acid results in the change of color parameters of the studied formulation.In this study, we confirmed that tannic acid and gallic acid might be potentially used as additives in cosmetics formulations.
多酚是一种天然化合物,具有抗氧化剂等生物活性。因此,可以考虑它们在化妆品工业中的应用。以单宁酸和没食子酸为添加剂制备乳化液。通过显微镜观察,研究了液滴的形成。并对乳液中多酚类物质的释放量、抗氧化活性和颜色参数进行了研究。结果表明,多酚的加入使微滴直径减小。各乳液均具有抗氧化活性;但以添加5%没食子酸的配方效果最好。单宁酸和没食子酸的加入改变了配方的颜色参数。在本研究中,我们证实单宁酸和没食子酸有可能作为化妆品配方的添加剂。
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引用次数: 1
Analytical methods and GAPI assessment used for determination of toxic metals in commercially cosmetics products: Review 商业化妆品中有毒金属测定的分析方法和GAPI评价:综述
Pub Date : 2022-04-04 DOI: 10.2174/2666779701666220404181950
R. F. Abbas, Ali A. Waheb
The toxic metal content of cosmetics causes worry because of the daily and repeated use of these products, which are placed over thin and sensitive areas of the skin such as the face, eyelids, and lips.Toxic metals like Fe, Cr, Hg, Cu, Cd, Ni, and As are determined in various types of cosmetics such as colour cosmetics, hair cosmetics, body and face care products, and herbal cosmetics. Last studies estimate that in commercial cosmetics toxic metals might present in amounts making a risk to human health.Many analysis methods used for determining toxic metals in cosmetics were established. The instruments involving FAAS, ICP-AES, ICP–MS, Hydride generation, Cold vapor, and CE spectrometers with many novel methods were described in this review. Green analytical methods should be developed for determining toxic metals in cosmetics and particularly during the preparation of analytical cosmetic samples.The most tools used for assessing analytical protocols related to green analytical chemistry are GAPI (Green Analytical Procedure Index). GAPI gives good information on the safety of analytical chemistry procedures, depending on the five pentagrams shaped with three color symbols that can be used (green, yellow, and red) referring to low, medium to high impact, respectively.This review offers an overview, analytical chemistry methods and instruments used for the estimation of toxic metals in cosmetics and their GAPI assessment.
化妆品中的有毒金属含量令人担忧,因为这些产品被放置在皮肤薄而敏感的区域,如面部、眼睑和嘴唇上,每天都要重复使用。有毒金属如铁、铬、汞、铜、镉、镍和砷在各种类型的化妆品中被检测出来,如彩妆、美发化妆品、身体和面部护理产品以及草药化妆品。最近的研究估计,商业化妆品中有毒金属的含量可能会对人体健康构成威胁。建立了多种测定化妆品中有毒金属的分析方法。本文综述了FAAS、ICP-AES、ICP-MS、氢化物生成、冷蒸汽和CE光谱等新方法。应该开发绿色分析方法来测定化妆品中的有毒金属,特别是在化妆品分析样品的制备过程中。用于评估与绿色分析化学相关的分析方案的最常用工具是GAPI(绿色分析程序指数)。GAPI提供了关于分析化学程序安全性的良好信息,这取决于五个五边形的三种颜色符号(绿色、黄色和红色),分别代表低、中、高影响。本文综述了化妆品中有毒金属的分析化学检测方法和仪器及其GAPI评价。
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引用次数: 1
Polyelectrolyte-surfactant mixtures as model for understanding the performance of 2-in-1 shampoo formulations 聚电解质-表面活性剂混合物作为理解二合一洗发水配方性能的模型
Pub Date : 2022-02-11 DOI: 10.2174/2666779701666220211145354
E. Guzmán
2-in-1 shampoos are very complex multi-component mixtures used for the cleansing of the hair fibers and the modulation of their tribological properties, contributing to the reduction of the negative charge of damaged hair fibers. This is the result of the combined action of the polyelectrolytes and surfactants that play a central role in the effectiveness of modern 2-in-1 shampoo formulations. Thus, surfactants contribute to the removal of the dust and fatty compounds during the washing process, whereas polyelectrolytes present a strong ability to be deposited on the surface of damaged fibers, and enhance their tribological properties. However, the lack of knowledge about the main forces driving the conditioning process has pushed the research and development strategy of the cosmetic industry towards the design of state-of-the-art experimental and theoretical methodologies for evaluating the behavior of mixtures formed by polyelectrolytes and surfactants in solution and adsorbed onto solid surfaces with negative charge and contact angle for water similar to those appearing in the surface of damaged hair fibers, which have become a very promising tool for obtaining important insights that can be exploited for the optimization of new formulations for hair cleaning and conditioning.This work tries to provide an updated perspective of the current understanding of the behavior of mixtures containing polyelectrolytes and surfactants bearing opposite charges in relation to their performance in hair care and conditioning for providing a link between physico-chemical aspects and the performance of real 2-in-1 formulations.Polyelectrolyte-surfactant are powerful tools for obtaining useful information for the optimization of cosmetic formulations for hair care and conditioning. However, the rational design of this type of cosmetic products must be considered a multi-disciplinary challenge, which requires the combined efforts of researchers with very different backgrounds.
二合一洗发水是非常复杂的多组分混合物,用于清洁头发纤维和调节其摩擦学特性,有助于减少受损头发纤维的负电荷。这是聚电解质和表面活性剂共同作用的结果,它们在现代二合一洗发水配方的有效性中起着核心作用。因此,表面活性剂有助于在洗涤过程中去除灰尘和脂肪化合物,而聚电解质则具有很强的沉积在受损纤维表面的能力,并增强其摩擦学性能。然而,由于缺乏对调理过程的主要驱动力的了解,化妆品行业的研究和发展策略转向了设计最先进的实验和理论方法,以评估溶液中聚电解质和表面活性剂形成的混合物的行为,这些混合物被吸附在具有负电荷和接触角的固体表面上,类似于出现在受损头发纤维表面的水。这已经成为一个非常有前途的工具,获得重要的见解,可以利用的新配方的头发清洁和调理的优化。这项工作试图为目前对含有聚电解质和表面活性剂的混合物的行为的理解提供一个更新的视角,这些混合物具有相反的电荷,与它们在头发护理和调理中的性能有关,从而提供物理化学方面与真正的二合一配方的性能之间的联系。聚电解质表面活性剂是获得有用信息的强大工具,为头发护理和调理化妆品配方的优化。然而,这类化妆品的合理设计必须被认为是一个多学科的挑战,这需要具有非常不同背景的研究人员的共同努力。
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引用次数: 1
Use of Lipid Nanoparticles, Nanoemulsions and Vesicles for Topical Delivery of Active Compounds Employed in the Cosmetic Field. 脂质纳米颗粒、纳米乳液和囊泡用于化妆品领域的活性化合物局部递送。
Pub Date : 2022-02-08 DOI: 10.2174/2666779701666220208091859
G. C. Salata, A. C. Apolinário, J. S. Passos, L. B. Lopes
In the past decades, nanocarriers have attracted attention as topical delivery systems for many compounds employed in the cosmetic field. This interest is justified by their ability to provide protection against degradation of liable molecules, possibility to originate a local depot and prolong drug release, ability to overcome the barrier function of the skin and co-encapsulation of compounds of varying physicochemical characteristics, among other properties. The properties of nanocarriers vary with their composition and structure, which in turn, influence the outcomes of topical treatment. In this manuscript, we focused on three types of nanocarriers (namely, lipid and surfactant-based vesicles, nanoemulsions and lipid nanoparticles) and discussed their main characteristics and influence on cutaneous transport, stability and pharmacological effects of active molecules employed in the cosmetic field. We also provided examples of commercially available products that employ the nanocarriers discussed as well as patents relevant to this field.
在过去的几十年里,纳米载体作为化妆品领域中许多化合物的局部递送系统引起了人们的关注。这种兴趣是合理的,因为它们有能力提供保护,防止易降解分子的降解,有可能产生局部储存库并延长药物释放,有能力克服皮肤的屏障功能,并能将不同物理化学特征的化合物共包封,以及其他特性。纳米载体的性质随其组成和结构而变化,这反过来又影响局部治疗的结果。在这篇文章中,我们重点研究了三种类型的纳米载体(即脂质和表面活性剂为基础的囊泡,纳米乳液和脂质纳米颗粒),并讨论了它们的主要特征和对皮肤运输的影响,化妆品领域中使用的活性分子的稳定性和药理作用。我们还提供了使用所讨论的纳米载体的商业可用产品的示例以及与该领域相关的专利。
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引用次数: 0
Isopropyl Ricinoleate, A Potential Alternative to Isopropyl Myristate: Experimental and Computational evaluation 蓖麻油酸异丙酯,肉豆蔻酸异丙酯的潜在替代品:实验和计算评价
Pub Date : 2021-11-02 DOI: 10.2174/2666779701666211102110454
A. Pratap, Nishat Khan, P. Meena, R. Mohile, Suraj N. Mali
Due to growing environmental concerns, eco-friendly and sustainable materials have become one of the key interests of cosmetics research. Isopropyl myristate is being used as a major cosmetic ingredient, like in many other cosmetic items, as an emollient for a long time. An emollient ester, isopropyl ricinoleate, is derived from non-edible oil, castor oil. The synthesized isopropyl ricinoleate using greener enzyme catalysed methodology was further tested for sensory evaluation and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) studies. An ester, isopropyl ricinoleate, imparted better gloss and shine to the skin as compared to isopropyl myristate due to its higher refractive index. Both esters, isopropyl ricinoleate and isopropyl myristate, showed minimum tackiness and residue after spreading. Moreover, in-silico toxicity analysis of ester, isopropyl ricinoleate, supported previously reported in-vitro toxicity data. Thus, the current study provides better insights on the replacement of emollient ester isopropyl myristate by isopropyl ricinoleate.
随着人们对环境问题的日益关注,环保和可持续材料已成为化妆品研究的重点之一。肉豆蔻酸异丙酯是一种主要的化妆品成分,像许多其他化妆品一样,作为润肤剂使用了很长时间。一种润肤酯,蓖麻酸异丙酯,是从非食用的蓖麻油中提取的。采用绿色酶催化法制备的蓖麻油酸异丙酯进一步进行了感官评价和经皮失水(TEWL)研究。一种酯,蓖麻油酸异丙酯,与肉豆蔻酸异丙酯相比,由于其更高的折射率,赋予皮肤更好的光泽和光泽。蓖麻油酸异丙酯和肉豆肉酸异丙酯两种酯的粘滞性和残留量均最小。此外,蓖麻油酸异丙酯的硅毒性分析支持先前报道的体外毒性数据。因此,本研究为蓖麻油酸异丙酯替代润肤剂肉豆蔻酸异丙酯提供了更好的见解。
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引用次数: 0
Electrochemotherapy In The Treatment of Kaposi’s Sarcoma: A Single Centre Cohort Study And A Comparison With Literature Data 电疗治疗卡波西肉瘤:单中心队列研究及文献资料比较
Pub Date : 2021-08-05 DOI: 10.2174/2666779701666210805100043
E. Cammarata, R. Giorgione, M. Andreassi, C. Airoldi, P. Savoia
Kaposi's sarcoma (KS) is a tumor of endothelial derivation, which primarily affects the skin and is mainly related to the type 8 human herpesvirus (HHV8). Its onset is favored by immunosuppression, although the most common form is the classic or sporadic KS mainly developing in elderly men of Mediterranean and Eastern European origin. Different therapeutic options are available, depending on the clinical variant, progression pattern, and comorbidities. The treatment of localized forms includes surgical excision, laser treatment, cryosurgery, radiotherapy, imiquimod 5%, and intra-lesion injection of cytotoxic drugs; on the other hand, the treatment of widespread disease encompasses radiotherapy and chemotherapy. In this scenario, electrochemotherapy (ECT), has shown to be an effective alternative to traditional treatment for disseminated KS skin lesions. The rationale of ECT relies on the local application of short, high-voltage electric pulses, able to open transient pores in the cell membrane (reversible electroporation, that increases the delivery of some poorly permeant cytotoxic agents into the cytosol. Herein we performed a retrospective analysis on 9 KS patients treated with ECT at our center between June 2016 and January 2020. The rate of Complete Response (CR) was 77.8% after the first cycle of treatment and 88.9% after the second course, with an overall response (OR) of 100%. Sustained local control of treated lesions was present in 77.8% of patients 6 months after the treatment and all of them reported only mild local toxicity, together with an excellent functional and cosmetic outcome, in agreement with data obtained from the comparison with the recent literature.
卡波西肉瘤(KS)是一种内皮源性肿瘤,主要影响皮肤,主要与8型人疱疹病毒(HHV8)有关。其发病倾向于免疫抑制,尽管最常见的形式是经典或散发性KS,主要发生在地中海和东欧的老年男性中。根据临床变异、进展模式和合并症,有不同的治疗选择。局部形式的治疗包括手术切除、激光治疗、冷冻手术、放疗、5%咪喹莫特、病灶内注射细胞毒性药物;另一方面,广泛疾病的治疗包括放疗和化疗。在这种情况下,电疗(ECT)已被证明是传统治疗弥散性KS皮肤病变的有效替代方法。ECT的原理依赖于局部应用短的高压电脉冲,能够打开细胞膜上的瞬态孔隙(可逆电穿孔),从而增加一些渗透性差的细胞毒性药物进入细胞质。在此,我们对2016年6月至2020年1月在我中心接受ECT治疗的9例KS患者进行了回顾性分析。第一个疗程后完全缓解率(CR)为77.8%,第二个疗程后完全缓解率(CR)为88.9%,总缓解率(OR)为100%。治疗6个月后,77.8%的患者局部病灶得到持续控制,所有患者均报告局部毒性轻微,功能和美容效果良好,与近期文献的比较数据一致。
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引用次数: 0
Aqueous-Based Nanoemulsion Containing (-)-α-Bisabolol for Topical Treatment of Skin burns 含有(-)-α-双abolol的水基纳米乳局部治疗皮肤烧伤
Pub Date : 2021-07-09 DOI: 10.2174/2666779701666210709113113
E. D. A. Almeida, Ricardo Ferreira-Nunes, B. R. L. Aguiar, P. E. D. dos Reis, Taís Gratieri, Marcilio Cunha-Filho, G. M. Gelfuso
α-Bisabolol (BIS) is a sesquiterpene extracted from chamomile flowers, which has been used to topically treat burnt skin has been reported. High lipophilicity of BIS, however, is a problem for both skin application and washing. The present study aimed to prepare and characterize a stable and safe aqueous-based nanoemulsion to incorporate BIS and favor skin penetration focusing on skin burns' topical treatment. Oil-in-water nanoemulsions were obtained from a pseudo-ternary phase diagram. The selected nanoemulsion was characterized (droplet size, PDI, and zeta potential), and the stability was assessed for 60 days at 6ºC and room temperature. The irritability of the formulation was determined by HET-CAM. Skin permeation studies were carried out in vitro intact skin, hot water burn skin, and hot plate burn skin. The nanoemulsion incorporated 1% (w/w) BIS, presented droplets' size of 14.0±0.8 nm (PDI= 0.13±0.02), the zeta potential of +7.5±1.9 mV, and was physically stable over 60 days. The HET-CAM did not show any irritability process provided by the nanoformulation. In the skin permeation experiments, when compared to an oily control solution of BIS, nanoemulsion increased 3.7-fold penetration of the drug in intact skin, likely because the nanoformulation acted as an absorption drug enhancer. On a hot water burn skin model, the increase in drug penetration was 1.7-fold, and in the hot plate burn skin, it was 2.3-fold. The nanoemulsion seems to be a promising alternative for skin burns' topical treatment using this natural active substance.
α-双abolol (bisabolol, BIS)是从洋甘菊中提取的倍半萜,已被报道用于局部治疗烧伤皮肤。然而,BIS的高亲脂性对皮肤应用和洗涤都是一个问题。本研究旨在制备一种稳定、安全的水基纳米乳,用于皮肤烧伤的局部治疗。利用伪三元相图制备了水包油纳米乳液。对所选择的纳米乳进行了表征(液滴大小、PDI和zeta电位),并在6℃和室温条件下评估了60天的稳定性。用ht - cam测定制剂的激惹性。在体外完整皮肤、热水烧伤皮肤和热板烧伤皮肤中进行皮肤渗透研究。加入1% BIS (w/w)的纳米乳液,微滴尺寸为14.0±0.8 nm (PDI= 0.13±0.02),zeta电位为+7.5±1.9 mV, 60 d内物理稳定。HET-CAM没有显示出纳米配方提供的任何过敏性过程。在皮肤渗透实验中,与BIS的油性对照溶液相比,纳米乳在完整皮肤中的药物渗透增加了3.7倍,可能是因为纳米制剂起到了吸收药物的促进作用。在热水烧伤皮肤模型中,药物渗透增加了1.7倍,在热板烧伤皮肤模型中,药物渗透增加了2.3倍。纳米乳液似乎是使用这种天然活性物质局部治疗皮肤烧伤的一种很有前途的选择。
{"title":"Aqueous-Based Nanoemulsion Containing (-)-α-Bisabolol for Topical Treatment of Skin burns","authors":"E. D. A. Almeida, Ricardo Ferreira-Nunes, B. R. L. Aguiar, P. E. D. dos Reis, Taís Gratieri, Marcilio Cunha-Filho, G. M. Gelfuso","doi":"10.2174/2666779701666210709113113","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2174/2666779701666210709113113","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000\u0000α-Bisabolol (BIS) is a sesquiterpene extracted from chamomile flowers, which has been used to topically treat burnt skin has been reported. High lipophilicity of BIS, however, is a problem for both skin application and washing. \u0000\u0000\u0000\u0000The present study aimed to prepare and characterize a stable and safe aqueous-based nanoemulsion to incorporate BIS and favor skin penetration focusing on skin burns' topical treatment. \u0000\u0000\u0000\u0000 Oil-in-water nanoemulsions were obtained from a pseudo-ternary phase diagram. The selected nanoemulsion was characterized (droplet size, PDI, and zeta potential), and the stability was assessed for 60 days at 6ºC and room temperature. The irritability of the formulation was determined by HET-CAM. Skin permeation studies were carried out in vitro intact skin, hot water burn skin, and hot plate burn skin. \u0000\u0000\u0000\u0000The nanoemulsion incorporated 1% (w/w) BIS, presented droplets' size of 14.0±0.8 nm (PDI= 0.13±0.02), the zeta potential of +7.5±1.9 mV, and was physically stable over 60 days. The HET-CAM did not show any irritability process provided by the nanoformulation. In the skin permeation experiments, when compared to an oily control solution of BIS, nanoemulsion increased 3.7-fold penetration of the drug in intact skin, likely because the nanoformulation acted as an absorption drug enhancer. On a hot water burn skin model, the increase in drug penetration was 1.7-fold, and in the hot plate burn skin, it was 2.3-fold. \u0000\u0000\u0000\u0000The nanoemulsion seems to be a promising alternative for skin burns' topical treatment using this natural active substance.\u0000","PeriodicalId":10817,"journal":{"name":"Current Cosmetic Science","volume":"26 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-07-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"76195827","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
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Current Cosmetic Science
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