K. C. Maciel, J. T. Sousa, Bianca Bernado Silva, B. M. silva, S. Tavares, Ellison Neves de Lima, C. Sousa
Background: Aloe vera is a medicinal plant of the family Xanthorrhoeaceae found in tropical regions, better known as slug. It has medicinal and cosmetic properties. The present work aimed to develop a gel based on Aloe vera with cosmetic action in capillary application. Materials and Methods: A qualitative and quantitative analysis of the following components was used for the development: Carbomer, propylene glycol and methylparaben in order to identify the best formulation. The samples were made in triplicate and stored in three different conditions: hothouse, refrigerator and room temperature, where they were submitted to tests. The data obtained were used to evaluate the organoleptic and physicochemical characteristics. Results: The results obtained from the organoleptic characteristics presented variations and instability in their color, odor and appearance. The formulations presented different results even the samples being exposed to the same conditions. Only one formulation underwent changes considered significant having the need for stabilization of its physicochemical constituents. And the others presented satisfactory results to our research. Conclusions: When evaluating the physico-chemical characteristics, we analyzed the pH, density and spreadability of each sample and no formulation presented significant changes where they remained within the range of values established by the quality control guide for cosmetic products of the Agencia Nacional de Vigilância Sanitaria (ANVISA).
{"title":"Pharmacotechnical development and evaluation of the physicochemical stability of a cosmetic gel from Aloe vera mucilage","authors":"K. C. Maciel, J. T. Sousa, Bianca Bernado Silva, B. M. silva, S. Tavares, Ellison Neves de Lima, C. Sousa","doi":"10.15171/IJPNI.2020.08","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.15171/IJPNI.2020.08","url":null,"abstract":"Background: Aloe vera is a medicinal plant of the family Xanthorrhoeaceae found in tropical regions, better known as slug. It has medicinal and cosmetic properties. The present work aimed to develop a gel based on Aloe vera with cosmetic action in capillary application. Materials and Methods: A qualitative and quantitative analysis of the following components was used for the development: Carbomer, propylene glycol and methylparaben in order to identify the best formulation. The samples were made in triplicate and stored in three different conditions: hothouse, refrigerator and room temperature, where they were submitted to tests. The data obtained were used to evaluate the organoleptic and physicochemical characteristics. Results: The results obtained from the organoleptic characteristics presented variations and instability in their color, odor and appearance. The formulations presented different results even the samples being exposed to the same conditions. Only one formulation underwent changes considered significant having the need for stabilization of its physicochemical constituents. And the others presented satisfactory results to our research. Conclusions: When evaluating the physico-chemical characteristics, we analyzed the pH, density and spreadability of each sample and no formulation presented significant changes where they remained within the range of values established by the quality control guide for cosmetic products of the Agencia Nacional de Vigilância Sanitaria (ANVISA).","PeriodicalId":14291,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Phytocosmetics and Natural Ingredients","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-05-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"89243033","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
In principal, phytotherapy is the study of medicinal plants and their applications in the treatment and cure of diseases. Medicinal plants have been in use since antiquity and their importance is growing empirically among people around the world. Although, it is not very common to find herbal medicines sold over-the-counter in pharmacies, their use has been gaining popularity. In recent times, the indiscriminate use of medicines, particularly antibiotics, has become a matter of major public health concern in view of increasing bacterial resistance to certain antibiotics. Proper hygiene of the body, especially the hands, is of paramount importance to prevent cross-infection, particularly among healthcare professionals. Therefore, the use of antiseptics has become essential in the daily activities. Herbal formulation, being natural products, can prove to be useful alternatives to combat common pathogens, as they are safe for human body. Several plant species have been studied in search of antibacterial alternatives and many of them have been exploited for their use as phytocosmetics. Hibiscus sabdariffa L. and Rosmarinus officinalis L. have been found to possess strong antibacterial properties and therefore can be used as phytocosmetics in the form of soaps.
{"title":"Use of Hibiscus sabdariffa L. and Rosmarinus officinalis L. in the formulation of antibacterial soaps","authors":"J. M. Cavalcanti, A. Silva, R. C. Souza","doi":"10.15171/IJPNI.2020.07","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.15171/IJPNI.2020.07","url":null,"abstract":"In principal, phytotherapy is the study of medicinal plants and their applications in the treatment and cure of diseases. Medicinal plants have been in use since antiquity and their importance is growing empirically among people around the world. Although, it is not very common to find herbal medicines sold over-the-counter in pharmacies, their use has been gaining popularity. In recent times, the indiscriminate use of medicines, particularly antibiotics, has become a matter of major public health concern in view of increasing bacterial resistance to certain antibiotics. Proper hygiene of the body, especially the hands, is of paramount importance to prevent cross-infection, particularly among healthcare professionals. Therefore, the use of antiseptics has become essential in the daily activities. Herbal formulation, being natural products, can prove to be useful alternatives to combat common pathogens, as they are safe for human body. Several plant species have been studied in search of antibacterial alternatives and many of them have been exploited for their use as phytocosmetics. Hibiscus sabdariffa L. and Rosmarinus officinalis L. have been found to possess strong antibacterial properties and therefore can be used as phytocosmetics in the form of soaps.","PeriodicalId":14291,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Phytocosmetics and Natural Ingredients","volume":"2015 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-05-22","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"87773206","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Letícia Nakamura Silva, M. G. A. Leite, Gabriela Maria D'Angelo Costa, P. M. Campos
Introduction: Each day, even more consumers are concerned about hair care, once its appearance influences the self-perception and, consequently, the quality of life. Nowadays, another preoccupation is the search for cosmetic products with natural raw materials. In this context, botanical extracts have been used as a natural active ingredient in cosmetic formulations to attend the demand of the consumer. The texture profile evaluation helps to find the best formulation that will have more acceptance in the market. In this context, this study aimed to evaluate the influence of three botanical extracts on the texture profile of shampoo formulations.Methods: A shampoo formulation was developed and added or not (Vehicle –V) with Hamamelis virginiana leaf extract (F1), Camellia sinensis leaf extract (F2) and Paullinia cupana extract – Guarana extract (F3). The analysis of the texture profile was performed using a TA.XT Plus Texture Analyzer (Stable Microsystems, Surrey UK). The formulations were evaluated in terms of hardness and spreadability, and the parameters calculated were hardness, adhesiveness, cohesiveness, elasticity, gumminess, compressibility, firmness and work of shear.Results: The obtained results showed that the botanical extracts decreased the hardness, firmness, and work of shear of the shampoo formulations, it was also observed an increase of elasticity. Comparing with the vehicle, the reduction of values of hardness and work of shear are desirable parameters, such as the increase of benefits of elasticity, once they are related to the formulation spreadability and softness. When comparing the botanical extracts, the Paullinia cupana extract promoted a decrease in the adhesiveness, while Camellia sinensis and Hamamelis virginiana increased this parameter. It was also observed smaller values of hardness and high elasticity, even though the firmness and work of shear did not present significant differences among them.Conclusion: In conclusion, even with the decrease of the firmness, the formulations with the extracts showed a good performance in other parameters, such as hardness, elasticity, and work of shear. Therefore, the formulation with guarana extract can be considered the best formulation due to the smaller values of hardness, and higher values of adhesiveness and elasticity.
{"title":"Influence of botanical extracts in the texture profile of shampoo formulations","authors":"Letícia Nakamura Silva, M. G. A. Leite, Gabriela Maria D'Angelo Costa, P. M. Campos","doi":"10.15171/IJPNI.2020.06","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.15171/IJPNI.2020.06","url":null,"abstract":"Introduction: Each day, even more consumers are concerned about hair care, once its appearance influences the self-perception and, consequently, the quality of life. Nowadays, another preoccupation is the search for cosmetic products with natural raw materials. In this context, botanical extracts have been used as a natural active ingredient in cosmetic formulations to attend the demand of the consumer. The texture profile evaluation helps to find the best formulation that will have more acceptance in the market. In this context, this study aimed to evaluate the influence of three botanical extracts on the texture profile of shampoo formulations.Methods: A shampoo formulation was developed and added or not (Vehicle –V) with Hamamelis virginiana leaf extract (F1), Camellia sinensis leaf extract (F2) and Paullinia cupana extract – Guarana extract (F3). The analysis of the texture profile was performed using a TA.XT Plus Texture Analyzer (Stable Microsystems, Surrey UK). The formulations were evaluated in terms of hardness and spreadability, and the parameters calculated were hardness, adhesiveness, cohesiveness, elasticity, gumminess, compressibility, firmness and work of shear.Results: The obtained results showed that the botanical extracts decreased the hardness, firmness, and work of shear of the shampoo formulations, it was also observed an increase of elasticity. Comparing with the vehicle, the reduction of values of hardness and work of shear are desirable parameters, such as the increase of benefits of elasticity, once they are related to the formulation spreadability and softness. When comparing the botanical extracts, the Paullinia cupana extract promoted a decrease in the adhesiveness, while Camellia sinensis and Hamamelis virginiana increased this parameter. It was also observed smaller values of hardness and high elasticity, even though the firmness and work of shear did not present significant differences among them.Conclusion: In conclusion, even with the decrease of the firmness, the formulations with the extracts showed a good performance in other parameters, such as hardness, elasticity, and work of shear. Therefore, the formulation with guarana extract can be considered the best formulation due to the smaller values of hardness, and higher values of adhesiveness and elasticity.","PeriodicalId":14291,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Phytocosmetics and Natural Ingredients","volume":"67 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-05-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"76830245","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
A. Cáceres, Silvia Alejandra Pinales-Tóbar, M. R. Medina, M. N. Marroquín, S. M. Cruz
Introduction: Coffee is a Rubiaceae with great economic importance for many countries. Guatemala is the largest producer from Central America, cultivating basically Arabic (Coffea arabica L.) type, which is sell internationally as high quality coffee and the sale of beans has been the main national revenue for two centuries. Nevertheless the recent coffee rust crisis evidenced the need for alternative management, as well as innovative utilization of beans and leaves.Methods: Beans and leaves from four varieties of coffee were collected from seven regions of Guatemala with the aim to characterize the chemical composition and evaluate the antioxidant activity. Ethanol extracts were prepared by percolation and concentrated by rotaevaporator. It was determined by spectrophotometry the concentration of total phenolics, caffeine, and chlorogenic acid as chemical markers, as well as total sugars.Results: Extraction yields were high (beans: 29.8, leaves: 48.3%). Both organs showed antioxidant activity by DPPH (IC50 0.81, 0.63 mg/mL), ABTS (IC50 1.48, 0.92 mg/mL), ferric reducing antioxidant power (FRAP) (7.37, 7.94 Fe+2/g), and total phenolics (90.40, 87.50 μg gallic acid/mg), as well as chlorogenic acid (4.91, 1.04%), caffeine (1.19, 0.72%) and total sugars (3.20, 2.98%), respectively.Conclusion: The results confirmed the good quality of the beans for its chlorogenic acid and caffeine content. It was also demonstrated the potential of the leaves for its phenolic content and antioxidant activity, considered an underutilized resource that might be used for industrial diversification of coffee by-products. The antioxidant activity of both organs suggests a potential application as functional food and for phytocosmetic application.
{"title":"Alternative use of coffee beans and leaves from seven regions of Guatemala for its antioxidant activity and chemical composition","authors":"A. Cáceres, Silvia Alejandra Pinales-Tóbar, M. R. Medina, M. N. Marroquín, S. M. Cruz","doi":"10.15171/IJPNI.2020.05","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.15171/IJPNI.2020.05","url":null,"abstract":"Introduction: Coffee is a Rubiaceae with great economic importance for many countries. Guatemala is the largest producer from Central America, cultivating basically Arabic (Coffea arabica L.) type, which is sell internationally as high quality coffee and the sale of beans has been the main national revenue for two centuries. Nevertheless the recent coffee rust crisis evidenced the need for alternative management, as well as innovative utilization of beans and leaves.Methods: Beans and leaves from four varieties of coffee were collected from seven regions of Guatemala with the aim to characterize the chemical composition and evaluate the antioxidant activity. Ethanol extracts were prepared by percolation and concentrated by rotaevaporator. It was determined by spectrophotometry the concentration of total phenolics, caffeine, and chlorogenic acid as chemical markers, as well as total sugars.Results: Extraction yields were high (beans: 29.8, leaves: 48.3%). Both organs showed antioxidant activity by DPPH (IC50 0.81, 0.63 mg/mL), ABTS (IC50 1.48, 0.92 mg/mL), ferric reducing antioxidant power (FRAP) (7.37, 7.94 Fe+2/g), and total phenolics (90.40, 87.50 μg gallic acid/mg), as well as chlorogenic acid (4.91, 1.04%), caffeine (1.19, 0.72%) and total sugars (3.20, 2.98%), respectively.Conclusion: The results confirmed the good quality of the beans for its chlorogenic acid and caffeine content. It was also demonstrated the potential of the leaves for its phenolic content and antioxidant activity, considered an underutilized resource that might be used for industrial diversification of coffee by-products. The antioxidant activity of both organs suggests a potential application as functional food and for phytocosmetic application.","PeriodicalId":14291,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Phytocosmetics and Natural Ingredients","volume":"24 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-04-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"81891901","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
With age, a decrease of original elasticity of the skin due to enzyme elastase leads to the appearance of fine lines, age spots, irregular pigmentation and wrinkles showing saggy and dull skin. The collagen also decreases and abnormal elastic fibers replace the dermis. Skin aging is a multifactorial process and its signs are influenced by a combination of intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Beside the process of aging, a daily external injury of skin (UV radiation, heat, pollutants, etc..) causes loss of moisture. The key molecule involved in skin moisture is hyaluronic acid (HA) that has unique capacity in retaining water. By time, HA diminishes, degraded and skin become dry and wrinkled. Hence, the need to conserve matrix is recommended. Degradation of HA can be occurred either enzymatically or by a free – radical mechanism. Thus, natural agents that delay free – radical catalyzed degradation or acting for as inhibitors of hyaluronidase enzyme are useful to maintain the integrity of dermal HA. The market of cosmeceuticals from natural products is a demand nowadays to maintain a healthy skin instead of the use of harmful synthetic cosmetics. Few reports concerning hyaluronidase inhibitors from natural source. This article presents the reported potent herbal hyaluronidase enzyme inhibitors worldwide and most reported Egyptian products.
{"title":"Hyaluronidase inhibitors as skin rejuvenating agents from natural source","authors":"M. Hetta","doi":"10.15171/IJPNI.2020.04","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.15171/IJPNI.2020.04","url":null,"abstract":"With age, a decrease of original elasticity of the skin due to enzyme elastase leads to the appearance of fine lines, age spots, irregular pigmentation and wrinkles showing saggy and dull skin. The collagen also decreases and abnormal elastic fibers replace the dermis. Skin aging is a multifactorial process and its signs are influenced by a combination of intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Beside the process of aging, a daily external injury of skin (UV radiation, heat, pollutants, etc..) causes loss of moisture. The key molecule involved in skin moisture is hyaluronic acid (HA) that has unique capacity in retaining water. By time, HA diminishes, degraded and skin become dry and wrinkled. Hence, the need to conserve matrix is recommended. Degradation of HA can be occurred either enzymatically or by a free – radical mechanism. Thus, natural agents that delay free – radical catalyzed degradation or acting for as inhibitors of hyaluronidase enzyme are useful to maintain the integrity of dermal HA. The market of cosmeceuticals from natural products is a demand nowadays to maintain a healthy skin instead of the use of harmful synthetic cosmetics. Few reports concerning hyaluronidase inhibitors from natural source. This article presents the reported potent herbal hyaluronidase enzyme inhibitors worldwide and most reported Egyptian products.","PeriodicalId":14291,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Phytocosmetics and Natural Ingredients","volume":"3 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-04-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"79110206","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Tiffany Paola Sandoval, Sully Margot Cruz Velasquez, Monica Ramos, Silvia Alejandra Pinales, L. Rochac, A. Cáceres
Introduction: Coffee (Coffea arabica L.) leaf is well known for its cosmetic uses and skin benefits, for example its ability to help maintain natural skin’s humidity. The aim of this study was to design and evaluate the cosmetic effectiveness of the formulation of creams containing different concentrations of C. arabica leaves ethanol extract using hydrating, emollient raw materials and other excipients. Extracts from C. arabica seeds and Calahuala (Phlebodium decumanum (Willd.) J. Sm.) rhizome have demonstrated sun protection effect, so they are included in the formulation.Methods: Several formulations were made in which the raw materials and the concentration of the extracts varied from 1 to 5%, and thus, achieve a formulation to evaluate its effectiveness in tests such as pH skin compatibility, sun protection factor, among others. For optimal sun protection effects, extracts from C. arabica leaves and P. decumanum rhizome were added.Results: Results revealed that Formulation 2B, containing C. arabica leaves and C. arabica seeds, obtained a higher value in the UV protection Test, it also presented a better consistency, stability, less physical changes and an optimal pH value when compared to the other formulations.Conclusion: Based on the test results, herbal formulations using raw materials are suitable for its dermatological use, especially for dry/sensitive skin types based on the pH values, providing solar protection among other benefits which are still under analysis.
{"title":"Application of phytocosmetic formulations based on Coffea arabica leaves extract","authors":"Tiffany Paola Sandoval, Sully Margot Cruz Velasquez, Monica Ramos, Silvia Alejandra Pinales, L. Rochac, A. Cáceres","doi":"10.15171/IJPNI.2020.02","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.15171/IJPNI.2020.02","url":null,"abstract":"Introduction: Coffee (Coffea arabica L.) leaf is well known for its cosmetic uses and skin benefits, for example its ability to help maintain natural skin’s humidity. The aim of this study was to design and evaluate the cosmetic effectiveness of the formulation of creams containing different concentrations of C. arabica leaves ethanol extract using hydrating, emollient raw materials and other excipients. Extracts from C. arabica seeds and Calahuala (Phlebodium decumanum (Willd.) J. Sm.) rhizome have demonstrated sun protection effect, so they are included in the formulation.Methods: Several formulations were made in which the raw materials and the concentration of the extracts varied from 1 to 5%, and thus, achieve a formulation to evaluate its effectiveness in tests such as pH skin compatibility, sun protection factor, among others. For optimal sun protection effects, extracts from C. arabica leaves and P. decumanum rhizome were added.Results: Results revealed that Formulation 2B, containing C. arabica leaves and C. arabica seeds, obtained a higher value in the UV protection Test, it also presented a better consistency, stability, less physical changes and an optimal pH value when compared to the other formulations.Conclusion: Based on the test results, herbal formulations using raw materials are suitable for its dermatological use, especially for dry/sensitive skin types based on the pH values, providing solar protection among other benefits which are still under analysis.","PeriodicalId":14291,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Phytocosmetics and Natural Ingredients","volume":"22 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-03-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"86158765","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Development of shampoo formulations with guarana extract: Influence of thickening agents in the texture profile","authors":"M. G. A. Leite, P. M. Maia Campos","doi":"10.15171/ijpni.2020.01","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.15171/ijpni.2020.01","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":14291,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Phytocosmetics and Natural Ingredients","volume":"12 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-01-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"88934594","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Marina Deperon Isnard, Gabriela Maria D'Angelo Costa, P. M. Campos
Introduction: The development of hair care cosmetic formulations with ingredients obtained from natural sources is a challenge since it can compromise the stability and performance of formulations. The search for innovative ingredients obtained from natural sources is important to overcome this challenge. In addition, the evaluation of the physicomechanical and sensorial proprieties, stability and effectiveness of hair formulations are fundamental to obtain formulations with good acceptance by consumers. In this context, the aim of this study was to develop and evaluate the stability, physical-mechanical, and sensorial properties, as well as the efficacy of hair care formulations based on natural ingredients. Methods: Shampoo and conditioner formulations containing natural ingredients such as hydrolyzed rice peptides and polysaccharides obtained from plants and biotechnological processes were developed. Stability, spreadability, hardness, texture profile, rheological behaviour and sensory properties of these formulations were evaluated. In addition, the efficacy of hair care formulations was assessed by break force, combability and brightness of hair samples. Results: Shampoo formulation containing hydrolyzed rice peptides had better results in the texture, hardness and spreadability parameters. Conditioner formulations with polysaccharides showed better performance in the tests. Regarding the hair effectiveness tests, all treatments increased the mechanical strength of the hair fiber as well as the strength in the combing test, but only shampoo formulation containing hydrolysed rice peptides increased the brightness of the hair. Moreover, the sensory analysis showed a correlation with the efficacy test by instrumental measurements. Conclusion: This study has a significant contribution since it showed that it is possible to develop stable and efficacy formulations with ingredients obtained from a natural source and the importance of the correlation between instrumental measurement data and sensory analysis.
{"title":"Development of hair care formulations based on natural ingredients","authors":"Marina Deperon Isnard, Gabriela Maria D'Angelo Costa, P. M. Campos","doi":"10.15171/ijpni.2019.09","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.15171/ijpni.2019.09","url":null,"abstract":"Introduction: The development of hair care cosmetic formulations with ingredients obtained from natural sources is a challenge since it can compromise the stability and performance of formulations. The search for innovative ingredients obtained from natural sources is important to overcome this challenge. In addition, the evaluation of the physicomechanical and sensorial proprieties, stability and effectiveness of hair formulations are fundamental to obtain formulations with good acceptance by consumers. In this context, the aim of this study was to develop and evaluate the stability, physical-mechanical, and sensorial properties, as well as the efficacy of hair care formulations based on natural ingredients. Methods: Shampoo and conditioner formulations containing natural ingredients such as hydrolyzed rice peptides and polysaccharides obtained from plants and biotechnological processes were developed. Stability, spreadability, hardness, texture profile, rheological behaviour and sensory properties of these formulations were evaluated. In addition, the efficacy of hair care formulations was assessed by break force, combability and brightness of hair samples. Results: Shampoo formulation containing hydrolyzed rice peptides had better results in the texture, hardness and spreadability parameters. Conditioner formulations with polysaccharides showed better performance in the tests. Regarding the hair effectiveness tests, all treatments increased the mechanical strength of the hair fiber as well as the strength in the combing test, but only shampoo formulation containing hydrolysed rice peptides increased the brightness of the hair. Moreover, the sensory analysis showed a correlation with the efficacy test by instrumental measurements. Conclusion: This study has a significant contribution since it showed that it is possible to develop stable and efficacy formulations with ingredients obtained from a natural source and the importance of the correlation between instrumental measurement data and sensory analysis.","PeriodicalId":14291,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Phytocosmetics and Natural Ingredients","volume":"78 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-12-20","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"87306364","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
F. S. Takano, J. B. Reigada, C. Domenico, H. Arcuri, C. Stüker, R. Roesler, D. Castellani, D. Zimbardi, C. R. Ferrari
Introduction: Virola surinamensis, known in the Brazilian Amazonian region as "ucuuba", produces seeds with high lipid content. The butter extracted from ucuuba seeds has a high moisturize potential, skin repairing properties and soft texture, which is interesting for cosmetic application. Methods: Virola surinamensis seeds from three different Amazonian regions were collected and studied: Para’s Northeast (Para/Brazil), Marajo Island (Para/Brazil) and RESEX Medio Jurua (Amazon as/Brazil). Fatty acid and triacilglycerides compositions were analyzed by gas chromatography with flame ionization detector (GC-FID). Secondary metabolite profiles were analyzed by ultra-performance liquid chromatography coupled with electrospray ionization and quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometer (UPLC-ESI-QToF-MS), in both negative and positive ionization modes. Results: Results revealed thar capric and lauric acids contents of RESEX Medio Jurua region butter were different from Para’s Northeast and Marajo island regions. LaMM and MMM triacilglycerols were the majoritarian triacilglycerides and the distribution of RESEX Medio Jurua region was also distinct. Different metabolites profiles were observed for the samples. Primary and secondary metabolites differences between V. surinamensis seed butter from three different Amazonian regions suggests that the environment influences the metabolome. Conclusion: Advanced analytical techniques and statistical analysis have proved to be essential for the metabolomic studies and for better understanding of the global chemical composition of different vegetable samples.
简介:苏里南维罗拉，在巴西亚马逊地区被称为“ucuuba”，生产高脂含量的种子。从ucuba种子中提取的黄油具有很高的保湿潜力，修复皮肤的性能和柔软的质地，这是一个有趣的化妆品应用。方法:收集来自亚马逊地区帕拉东北(帕拉/巴西)、马拉霍岛(帕拉/巴西)和RESEX Medio Jurua(亚马逊地区/巴西)的苏里南毒蛾种子进行研究。用气相色谱-火焰离子化检测器(GC-FID)分析脂肪酸和甘油三酯的组成。采用超高效液相色谱联用电喷雾电离和四极杆飞行时间质谱(UPLC-ESI-QToF-MS)，在负离子和正离子模式下分析次生代谢物谱。结果:结果表明，RESEX Medio Jurua地区黄油的癸酸和月桂酸含量与帕拉东北部和马拉霍岛地区不同。LaMM和MMM三酸甘油酯是主要的三酸甘油酯，RESEX - Medio Jurua地区分布也很明显。观察到不同样品的代谢物谱。不同亚马孙地区苏里南藜种子黄油初级和次级代谢物的差异表明，环境影响了代谢物组。结论:先进的分析技术和统计分析已被证明对代谢组学研究和更好地了解不同蔬菜样品的全球化学成分是必不可少的。
{"title":"Metabolomic study of Virola surinamensis (Rol.) Warb raw seed butter from different Amazonian regions","authors":"F. S. Takano, J. B. Reigada, C. Domenico, H. Arcuri, C. Stüker, R. Roesler, D. Castellani, D. Zimbardi, C. R. Ferrari","doi":"10.15171/ijpni.2019.07","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.15171/ijpni.2019.07","url":null,"abstract":"Introduction: Virola surinamensis, known in the Brazilian Amazonian region as \"ucuuba\", produces seeds with high lipid content. The butter extracted from ucuuba seeds has a high moisturize potential, skin repairing properties and soft texture, which is interesting for cosmetic application. Methods: Virola surinamensis seeds from three different Amazonian regions were collected and studied: Para’s Northeast (Para/Brazil), Marajo Island (Para/Brazil) and RESEX Medio Jurua (Amazon as/Brazil). Fatty acid and triacilglycerides compositions were analyzed by gas chromatography with flame ionization detector (GC-FID). Secondary metabolite profiles were analyzed by ultra-performance liquid chromatography coupled with electrospray ionization and quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometer (UPLC-ESI-QToF-MS), in both negative and positive ionization modes. Results: Results revealed thar capric and lauric acids contents of RESEX Medio Jurua region butter were different from Para’s Northeast and Marajo island regions. LaMM and MMM triacilglycerols were the majoritarian triacilglycerides and the distribution of RESEX Medio Jurua region was also distinct. Different metabolites profiles were observed for the samples. Primary and secondary metabolites differences between V. surinamensis seed butter from three different Amazonian regions suggests that the environment influences the metabolome. Conclusion: Advanced analytical techniques and statistical analysis have proved to be essential for the metabolomic studies and for better understanding of the global chemical composition of different vegetable samples.","PeriodicalId":14291,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Phytocosmetics and Natural Ingredients","volume":"132 7 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-12-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"79617540","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Integrative medicine is a medical approach for health and healing which integrates mainstream therapies (conventional), with traditional, complementary and alternative medicines (CAM). It is intended to support those therapies with defined procedures with safety and efficacy so it is considered evidenced-based, but with a holistic and preventive approach. Since late 20th century the interaction of therapists and techniques lead to the recognition of this integrative concept. It is classified into five categories or domains: Alternative medical systems (Ayurveda, Chinese, Kempo), natural products or biological therapies (phytotherapy, trophotherapy, aromatherapy, zootherapy), main-body medicine (yoga, meditation, hypnotherapy), body manipulation practices (chiropractic, massage, shiatzu, lymphatic drainage) and movement-energy therapies (qui gong, reiki, tai chi quan). This approach is expanding among leading universities and is being articulated with conventional medicine for improving public and private health systems worldwide, increasing available therapies from cultural, economic and ecological points of view. It is expected that this concept will lead modern health approach for patients satisfaction, improving health care systems in developing countries and providing fair access to health and beauty by everybody.
{"title":"Integrative Medicine: A Health Paradigm of the Future","authors":"A. Cáceres","doi":"10.15171/ijpni.2019.06","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.15171/ijpni.2019.06","url":null,"abstract":"Integrative medicine is a medical approach for health and healing which integrates mainstream therapies (conventional), with traditional, complementary and alternative medicines (CAM). It is intended to support those therapies with defined procedures with safety and efficacy so it is considered evidenced-based, but with a holistic and preventive approach. Since late 20th century the interaction of therapists and techniques lead to the recognition of this integrative concept. It is classified into five categories or domains: Alternative medical systems (Ayurveda, Chinese, Kempo), natural products or biological therapies (phytotherapy, trophotherapy, aromatherapy, zootherapy), main-body medicine (yoga, meditation, hypnotherapy), body manipulation practices (chiropractic, massage, shiatzu, lymphatic drainage) and movement-energy therapies (qui gong, reiki, tai chi quan). This approach is expanding among leading universities and is being articulated with conventional medicine for improving public and private health systems worldwide, increasing available therapies from cultural, economic and ecological points of view. It is expected that this concept will lead modern health approach for patients satisfaction, improving health care systems in developing countries and providing fair access to health and beauty by everybody.","PeriodicalId":14291,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Phytocosmetics and Natural Ingredients","volume":"62 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2019-10-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"74393185","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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