The so-called active ingredients in skin care product formulations are purported to deliver the intended functions of the product. Active ingredients, such as the antioxidants can efficiently protect the skin if the activities are retained after incorporating into the base matrices in the product formulation. Here, we investigated the antioxidant activities of 24 extracts/compounds that are being used in skin care formulations and their ability to retain the activities (efficacy) after being mixed with the base matrices. The antioxidant activities were evaluated using 2, 2’-azino-bis (3- ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulphonic acid (ABTS) and diphenyl-picryl hydrazine (DPPH) assays. To test the efficacy of the samples in formulation, the samples were mixed with base cream 1%, 2% and 4% (w:w) and allowed to settle overnight. Results were expressed as either percentage inhibition (%) or IC50 (μg/mL). Out of the 24 samples, ten exhibited significantly high antioxidant activities with resveratrol> pomegranate> green tea> mango> amla> bearberry> ellagic acid> tetrahydrocurcuminoid> Rhodiola rosea> kakadu plum in the ABTS assay. In the DPPH assay, green tea> pomegranate> tetrahydrocurcuminoid> mango> amla> resveratrol> bearberry> Rhodiola rosea>kakudu plum>ellagic acid. Four out of the ten samples (amla, green tea, mango and pomegranate extracts) had IC50 value lower than Trolox standard and were included in the efficacy test. Trolox standard and amla extract seemed to retain their antioxidant activities in the formulations, while green tea and pomegranate extracts had a decrease in activities. Only mango extract had a synergistic effect with the cream base with higher antioxidant activity observed compared with the extract alone. This study demonstrates the potential interaction between active and vehicle compounds, which may hinder or enhance the activities of the active ingredients in the final product. The outcome of the research has an impact in the cosmetic product formulation particularly in the quality control, chemistry and efficacy of the finished products.
{"title":"Evaluation of the antioxidant efficacy of extracts/ ingredients used in skin care products","authors":"N. N. A. Zakaria, E. Okello, O. Idowu","doi":"10.15171/ijpni.2018.07","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.15171/ijpni.2018.07","url":null,"abstract":"The so-called active ingredients in skin care product formulations are purported to deliver the intended functions of the product. Active ingredients, such as the antioxidants can efficiently protect the skin if the activities are retained after incorporating into the base matrices in the product formulation. Here, we investigated the antioxidant activities of 24 extracts/compounds that are being used in skin care formulations and their ability to retain the activities (efficacy) after being mixed with the base matrices. The antioxidant activities were evaluated using 2, 2’-azino-bis (3- ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulphonic acid (ABTS) and diphenyl-picryl hydrazine (DPPH) assays. To test the efficacy of the samples in formulation, the samples were mixed with base cream 1%, 2% and 4% (w:w) and allowed to settle overnight. Results were expressed as either percentage inhibition (%) or IC50 (μg/mL). Out of the 24 samples, ten exhibited significantly high antioxidant activities with resveratrol> pomegranate> green tea> mango> amla> bearberry> ellagic acid> tetrahydrocurcuminoid> Rhodiola rosea> kakadu plum in the ABTS assay. In the DPPH assay, green tea> pomegranate> tetrahydrocurcuminoid> mango> amla> resveratrol> bearberry> Rhodiola rosea>kakudu plum>ellagic acid. Four out of the ten samples (amla, green tea, mango and pomegranate extracts) had IC50 value lower than Trolox standard and were included in the efficacy test. Trolox standard and amla extract seemed to retain their antioxidant activities in the formulations, while green tea and pomegranate extracts had a decrease in activities. Only mango extract had a synergistic effect with the cream base with higher antioxidant activity observed compared with the extract alone. This study demonstrates the potential interaction between active and vehicle compounds, which may hinder or enhance the activities of the active ingredients in the final product. The outcome of the research has an impact in the cosmetic product formulation particularly in the quality control, chemistry and efficacy of the finished products.","PeriodicalId":14291,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Phytocosmetics and Natural Ingredients","volume":"12 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2018-11-27","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"84822076","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
R. Aguirre, Lisandra Miriam Cutiño, J. Peña, H. Morris, Y. Beltrán, G. Llauradó, Yoendris Reyes, M. Meneses, I. Gaime-Perraud
Introduction: As part of cancer research, mycotherapy is a relatively new and promissory source of agents with immunomodulating and antitumor properties. Ongoing research projects are aiming to provide mushrooms as a new generation of "biotherapeutics". In addition to high-molecular weight polysaccharides, efforts should be made to find new anticancer drugs using low-molecular weight secondary metabolites, e.g. phenolic compounds that can inhibit or trigger specific biochemical signals leading to cancer. Methods: An in silico approach based on the structural similarity of low-molecular weight myco-compounds (phenolics) with respect to antitumor substances and molecules with modulatory effects on epigenetic events was used. For the screening of mushroom molecules with potential regulatory effects on epigenome (obtained on Web of Science, August 2015), the enzymes histone acetyltransferase (HAT), histone deacetylase (HDAC) and DNA methyltransferase (DNMT) were chosen as targets. Similarity analysis were performed with the software Saranea. Moreover, the determination of the chemical structural similitude between phenolic compounds of Pleurotus ostreatus (oyster mushroom) and antitumor reference compounds was carried out with the software Power MV 0.61. Tanimoto’s coefficients (Tc) similar or higher to 0.90 were considered as significant. Results: Seven mushroom compounds with high structural similarity to reference substances with modulatory activity on epigenetic events (Tc ≥0.90) were identified: 5 with a potential effect on histone acetylation/deacetylation, and 3 acting on the enzyme DNMT. Twenty antitumor reference compounds showed structural similarity to 3 phenols occurring in P. ostreatus, corresponding the largest number to protocatechuic acid and the flavonoids myricetin and naringin. According to its similarity to the antitumor compounds, they would act as DNA antimetabolites, antimitotic, and/or alkylating agents. Conclusion: It seems feasible to harness the natural pool of mushrooms secondary metabolites and to predict by in silico approaches their potential modulatory effects on epigenetic events and antitumor activity, in special phenolics occurring in P. ostreatus. This is an exciting advance for developing nutraceuticals/ cosmeceuticals and innovative drugs.
作为癌症研究的一部分,真菌治疗是一种相对较新的具有免疫调节和抗肿瘤特性的药物来源。正在进行的研究项目旨在提供蘑菇作为新一代的“生物疗法”。除了高分子量的多糖外,还应努力寻找利用低分子量次级代谢物的新型抗癌药物,例如能够抑制或触发导致癌症的特定生化信号的酚类化合物。方法:采用基于低分子量真菌化合物(酚类物质)与抗肿瘤物质和对表观遗传事件具有调节作用的分子的结构相似性的计算机方法。为了筛选对表观基因组具有潜在调控作用的蘑菇分子(获得于Web of Science, 2015年8月),我们选择了组蛋白乙酰转移酶(HAT)、组蛋白去乙酰化酶(HDAC)和DNA甲基转移酶(DNMT)作为靶点。用Saranea软件进行相似性分析。利用Power MV 0.61软件对平菇酚类化合物与抗肿瘤参比化合物进行化学结构相似性测定。谷本系数(Tc)接近或高于0.90被认为是显著的。结果:共鉴定出7种与参比物质结构相似度高且对表观遗传事件具有调节活性(Tc≥0.90)的香菇化合物,其中5种可能影响组蛋白乙酰化/去乙酰化,3种作用于DNMT酶。20个抗肿瘤参比化合物与三种酚类化合物结构相似,其中与原儿茶酸、黄酮类杨梅素和柚皮苷对应最多。根据其与抗肿瘤化合物的相似性,它们可作为DNA抗代谢物、抗有丝分裂和/或烷基化剂。结论:利用蘑菇次生代谢产物的天然库,并通过计算机方法预测其对白顶霉中特定酚类物质的表观遗传事件和抗肿瘤活性的潜在调节作用是可行的。这是开发营养药品/药妆品和创新药物的一个令人兴奋的进步。
{"title":"An in silico approach for evaluating the antitumor and epigenetic modulating potential of phenolic compounds occurring in edible and medicinal mushrooms","authors":"R. Aguirre, Lisandra Miriam Cutiño, J. Peña, H. Morris, Y. Beltrán, G. Llauradó, Yoendris Reyes, M. Meneses, I. Gaime-Perraud","doi":"10.15171/ijpni.2018.06","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.15171/ijpni.2018.06","url":null,"abstract":"Introduction: As part of cancer research, mycotherapy is a relatively new and promissory source of agents with immunomodulating and antitumor properties. Ongoing research projects are aiming to provide mushrooms as a new generation of \"biotherapeutics\". In addition to high-molecular weight polysaccharides, efforts should be made to find new anticancer drugs using low-molecular weight secondary metabolites, e.g. phenolic compounds that can inhibit or trigger specific biochemical signals leading to cancer. \u0000Methods: An in silico approach based on the structural similarity of low-molecular weight myco-compounds (phenolics) with respect to antitumor substances and molecules with modulatory effects on epigenetic events was used. For the screening of mushroom molecules with potential regulatory effects on epigenome (obtained on Web of Science, August 2015), the enzymes histone acetyltransferase (HAT), histone deacetylase (HDAC) and DNA methyltransferase (DNMT) were chosen as targets. Similarity analysis were performed with the software Saranea. Moreover, the determination of the chemical structural similitude between phenolic compounds of Pleurotus ostreatus (oyster mushroom) and antitumor reference compounds was carried out with the software Power MV 0.61. Tanimoto’s coefficients (Tc) similar or higher to 0.90 were considered as significant. \u0000Results: Seven mushroom compounds with high structural similarity to reference substances with modulatory activity on epigenetic events (Tc ≥0.90) were identified: 5 with a potential effect on histone acetylation/deacetylation, and 3 acting on the enzyme DNMT. Twenty antitumor reference compounds showed structural similarity to 3 phenols occurring in P. ostreatus, corresponding the largest number to protocatechuic acid and the flavonoids myricetin and naringin. According to its similarity to the antitumor compounds, they would act as DNA antimetabolites, antimitotic, and/or alkylating agents. \u0000Conclusion: It seems feasible to harness the natural pool of mushrooms secondary metabolites and to predict by in silico approaches their potential modulatory effects on epigenetic events and antitumor activity, in special phenolics occurring in P. ostreatus. This is an exciting advance for developing nutraceuticals/ cosmeceuticals and innovative drugs.","PeriodicalId":14291,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Phytocosmetics and Natural Ingredients","volume":"6 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2018-10-23","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"79086943","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Herbal ingredients and the combination of several species of plants, account for the different therapeutic and healing effects observed in the "complementary" or "alternative" medicine. The practice of herbal medicine is responsible for extense human knowledge that has developed over time in various cultures, worldwide. Cosmetics or nutracosmetics may cause adverse reactions in the skin, specially when there is a lack of cosmetic vigilance management. It is important to promote, in a relatively permissive regulatory environment, conscious efforts on the part of health professionals, to evaluate the outcomes and validate their pharmacological and cosmetic use. Traditional knowledge about the use of some herbs should be reevaluated and scientific basis should be considered. It is important to conduct a complete scientific research for validating herbal therapeutics and optimizing safety. Scientific toxicological research, using proper models, must continue to prove quality, efficacy, pharmacokinetics and pharmacodynamics interactions with other substances, and safety. Mechanisms of actions, as well as factors affecting toxicity should be studied, revised and taken in account to prevent adverse reactions, when using complementary or alternative medicine.
{"title":"Current methodologies in assessing toxicity of natural products","authors":"A. L. Valle","doi":"10.15171/ijpni.2018.03","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.15171/ijpni.2018.03","url":null,"abstract":"Herbal ingredients and the combination of several species of plants, account for the different therapeutic and healing effects observed in the \"complementary\" or \"alternative\" medicine. The practice of herbal medicine is responsible for extense human knowledge that has developed over time in various cultures, worldwide. Cosmetics or nutracosmetics may cause adverse reactions in the skin, specially when there is a lack of cosmetic vigilance management. It is important to promote, in a relatively permissive regulatory environment, conscious efforts on the part of health professionals, to evaluate the outcomes and validate their pharmacological and cosmetic use. Traditional knowledge about the use of some herbs should be reevaluated and scientific basis should be considered. It is important to conduct a complete scientific research for validating herbal therapeutics and optimizing safety. Scientific toxicological research, using proper models, must continue to prove quality, efficacy, pharmacokinetics and pharmacodynamics interactions with other substances, and safety. Mechanisms of actions, as well as factors affecting toxicity should be studied, revised and taken in account to prevent adverse reactions, when using complementary or alternative medicine.","PeriodicalId":14291,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Phytocosmetics and Natural Ingredients","volume":"8 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2018-08-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"91269540","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Tatiana de los Ángeles Mosquera Tayupanta, Mónica Espadero, Miriam Mancheno, Sebastian Peña, Amanda Uguña, Stephanie Álvarez, María Augusta Vega
Introduction: Sensory analysis is a subjective method that evaluates a product through the use of human senses. In this case, the objective is to determine if the incorporation of essential oils in cosmetic formulas is perceived as pleasant based on a scale of preference of 9 points (hedonic scale) in which 9 indicates "like extremely" and 1 "dislike extremely". The sensorial attribute evaluated is "aroma", referring to the odors or essences that can be detected through olfaction (sense of smell). The essential oils used in these formulations are: Aristeguietia glutinosa (matico), Ocotea quixos (ishpingo). Bibliographic references have established the antioxidant properties of these oils making them interesting ingredients for cosmetic formulations with claims of anti-aging properties given their antioxidant potential. Methods: Two cosmetic forms are evaluated, creams and lotions, in which 0.4-6.6 and 0.8% of a mixture of oils are incorporated in 2 proportions, 20:80 (20% matico, 80% ishpingo) and 80:20 (80% matico, 20% ishpingo). A hedonic test was performed with a panel of 32 untrained consumers, based on a balanced experimental design in which each sample is presented in a different order, a monadic evaluation is performed one sample at a time, and the attribute "aroma" is evaluated in 3 different moments: T0, "aroma in container"; T1, "aroma on skin"; and T2,"aroma on skin after five minutes time". Results: The results are evaluated by means of an analysis of variance (ANOVA) and group differences were determined via Duncan tests. The results reflect statistical differences regarding the cosmetic in its lotion form, with the most preferred samples being those containing 0.4% of the essential oils, regardless of whether the proportion of matico-to-ishpingo is 20:80 or 80:20. Conclusion: Sensory analysis allows to identify the degree of acceptance of cosmetic products and thus guide research and development processes. With this in mind, although there is no significant differential in the perception of aroma at least in the cosmetic form of cream, there are significant differences in lotion form.
{"title":"Sensory analysis of cosmetic formulations made with essential oils of Aristeguietia glutinosa (matico) and Ocotea quixos (ishpingo)","authors":"Tatiana de los Ángeles Mosquera Tayupanta, Mónica Espadero, Miriam Mancheno, Sebastian Peña, Amanda Uguña, Stephanie Álvarez, María Augusta Vega","doi":"10.15171/ijpni.2018.05","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.15171/ijpni.2018.05","url":null,"abstract":"Introduction: Sensory analysis is a subjective method that evaluates a product through the use of human senses. In this case, the objective is to determine if the incorporation of essential oils in cosmetic formulas is perceived as pleasant based on a scale of preference of 9 points (hedonic scale) in which 9 indicates \"like extremely\" and 1 \"dislike extremely\". The sensorial attribute evaluated is \"aroma\", referring to the odors or essences that can be detected through olfaction (sense of smell). The essential oils used in these formulations are: Aristeguietia glutinosa (matico), Ocotea quixos (ishpingo). Bibliographic references have established the antioxidant properties of these oils making them interesting ingredients for cosmetic formulations with claims of anti-aging properties given their antioxidant potential. \u0000Methods: Two cosmetic forms are evaluated, creams and lotions, in which 0.4-6.6 and 0.8% of a mixture of oils are incorporated in 2 proportions, 20:80 (20% matico, 80% ishpingo) and 80:20 (80% matico, 20% ishpingo). A hedonic test was performed with a panel of 32 untrained consumers, based on a balanced experimental design in which each sample is presented in a different order, a monadic evaluation is performed one sample at a time, and the attribute \"aroma\" is evaluated in 3 different moments: T0, \"aroma in container\"; T1, \"aroma on skin\"; and T2,\"aroma on skin after five minutes time\". \u0000Results: The results are evaluated by means of an analysis of variance (ANOVA) and group differences were determined via Duncan tests. The results reflect statistical differences regarding the cosmetic in its lotion form, with the most preferred samples being those containing 0.4% of the essential oils, regardless of whether the proportion of matico-to-ishpingo is 20:80 or 80:20. \u0000Conclusion: Sensory analysis allows to identify the degree of acceptance of cosmetic products and thus guide research and development processes. With this in mind, although there is no significant differential in the perception of aroma at least in the cosmetic form of cream, there are significant differences in lotion form.","PeriodicalId":14291,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Phytocosmetics and Natural Ingredients","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2018-08-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"88662531","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
A. Cáceres, F. Almeda, L. Astorga, Andrea C. Orellana, Ligia I. Sampuel, P. Sierra, Vivian F. Zelada
Introduction: Urease is an enzyme that catalyzes the hydrolysis of urea in the gastrointestinal and urinary systems, related with chronic bacterial infection. Piper is a basal angiosperm genus with ethnobotanical application. The aim of this study was to determine urease inhibitory activity of extracts from ten Guatemalan Piper species. Methods: Leaves from 7 species were collected in Suchitepequez (P. amalago, P. auritum, P. hispidum, P. jacquemontianum, P. oradendron, P. retalhuleuense, and P. umbellatum), and 3 in Alta Verapaz (P. psilorhachis, P. sempervirens, and P. variabile), shade-dried and milled. Dichloromethane (DCM) and methanol (MeOH) extracts were prepared by percolation and concentrated by rotavapor. The inhibitory effect was determined by enzymatic assays, qualitative by thin layer chromatography developed by phenol red; and quantitative by spectrophotometric kinetic method evaluated by microcolorimetry at 630 nm with phenol red. Results: Seventeen extracts out of 20 demonstrated anti-urease activity by TLC, showing one discoloration band with Rf 1.4-5.8; P. psilorhachis showed 2 discolorations bands at Rf 5.3 and 5.8, and the best activity (IC50 MeOH 1.9 ± 0.08 μg/mL and DCM 2.1 ± 06 μg/mL), similar to positive control (hydrocyclohexanone IC50 1.4 ± 0.05 μg/mL). Two other species, P. umbellatum (IC50 MeOH 2.5 ± 0.06 μg/mL) and P. retalhuleunse (IC50 MeOH 4.1 ± 0.7 μg/mL, DCM 4.8 ± 0.06 μg/mL) showed a moderate activity. Conclusion: Three species showed interesting anti-urease activity that deserves future studies by bio-guided fractionation. Literature review demonstrated that this is the first report about the urease activity of these Piper species.
{"title":"Anti-urease activity of native species of genus Piper from Guatemala with potential application in infection control","authors":"A. Cáceres, F. Almeda, L. Astorga, Andrea C. Orellana, Ligia I. Sampuel, P. Sierra, Vivian F. Zelada","doi":"10.15171/IJPNI.2018.02","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.15171/IJPNI.2018.02","url":null,"abstract":"Introduction: Urease is an enzyme that catalyzes the hydrolysis of urea in the gastrointestinal and urinary systems, related with chronic bacterial infection. Piper is a basal angiosperm genus with ethnobotanical application. The aim of this study was to determine urease inhibitory activity of extracts from ten Guatemalan Piper species. \u0000Methods: Leaves from 7 species were collected in Suchitepequez (P. amalago, P. auritum, P. hispidum, P. jacquemontianum, P. oradendron, P. retalhuleuense, and P. umbellatum), and 3 in Alta Verapaz (P. psilorhachis, P. sempervirens, and P. variabile), shade-dried and milled. Dichloromethane (DCM) and methanol (MeOH) extracts were prepared by percolation and concentrated by rotavapor. The inhibitory effect was determined by enzymatic assays, qualitative by thin layer chromatography developed by phenol red; and quantitative by spectrophotometric kinetic method evaluated by microcolorimetry at 630 nm with phenol red. \u0000Results: Seventeen extracts out of 20 demonstrated anti-urease activity by TLC, showing one discoloration band with Rf 1.4-5.8; P. psilorhachis showed 2 discolorations bands at Rf 5.3 and 5.8, and the best activity (IC50 MeOH 1.9 ± 0.08 μg/mL and DCM 2.1 ± 06 μg/mL), similar to positive control (hydrocyclohexanone IC50 1.4 ± 0.05 μg/mL). Two other species, P. umbellatum (IC50 MeOH 2.5 ± 0.06 μg/mL) and P. retalhuleunse (IC50 MeOH 4.1 ± 0.7 μg/mL, DCM 4.8 ± 0.06 μg/mL) showed a moderate activity. \u0000Conclusion: Three species showed interesting anti-urease activity that deserves future studies by bio-guided fractionation. Literature review demonstrated that this is the first report about the urease activity of these Piper species.","PeriodicalId":14291,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Phytocosmetics and Natural Ingredients","volume":"12 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2018-07-23","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"83622575","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}