Journal of cosmetic science最新文献

This research aimed to evaluate stability and release characteristics of nicotinamide-loaded microemulsions (MEs). Four MEs were prepared with Tween 80 as surfactant, Span 80 as cosurfactant, either virgin coconut oil or olive oil as oil phase, water as aqueous phase, and nicotinamide as an active ingredient. They were composed of 3% w/w nicotinamide and designated as MEC1-N, MEC2-N, MEO1-N, and MEO2-N. All samples were kept in clear glass containers at 4°C, room temperature (RT, 28° ± 2°C), and 45°C for 3 months. Afterward, they were observed for physical changes and analyzed for remaining nicotinamide by a validated high-performance liquid chromatography technique. MEC1-N and MEO1-N were compared for nicotinamide released through dialysis membrane using modified Franz diffusion cells. It was found that all samples were clear liquid and water-in-oil type. Phase separation was found in MEO2-N at all storage conditions. Discoloration was observed in all samples after being kept at 45°C for 3 months. MEC1-N, MEC2-N, and MEO1-N were both physically and chemically stable after being kept at 4°C and RT for 3 months. Release kinetics of MEC1-N and MEO1-N were the best fitted with the Higuchi model.

Butterfly pea (Clitoria ternatea) anthocyanins are important natural food colorants. However, the instability hinders industrial applications. The butterfly pea anthocyanin extract was prepared and mixed with biopolymeric wall systems such as maltodextrin (MD) and gum arabic (GA), MD and gelatin (GE), and MD and guar gum at 1/4 and 1/5 ratios with or without acidified condition, and assessed using the accelerated stability test. The total anthocyanin content (TAC) and color were reassessed. The biopolymeric walls of MD and GA (1/5) under acidified condition exhibited best stability enhancement in comparison with the unprotected one (12.04% ± 4.49% and 85.37% ± 0.22% TAC reduction, respectively). a* and b shifts of the protected system were 4.76% ± 0.00% and 0.28% ± 0.00%, respectively. The particle size of this system was 95.44 ± 1.57 µm. This stabilized anthocyanin extract can, therefore, be used in food, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic industries.

Darkening of fruits is the result of the oxidative activation of polyphenol oxidase converting low-molecular weight phenols present in the fruit body into quinone intermediates. Then, through polymerization, these reactive quinones convert to light yellow and red low-molecular weight melanin and, given enough time, to darker, higher molecular weight brown and black melanin. The process that occurs in the flesh of cut fruit is very similar to the process that human skin cells use to make melanin: the oxidative activation of tyrosinase and conversion of tyrosine to dopaquinone and eventually to darker melanin. The conversion of the phenols by tyrosinase to quinones is the rate-limiting step in the biochemical manufacture of melanin. This article will discuss a new and cost effective way to screen skin-brightening ingredients by the use of apple slices as a model for skin using a chromameter to measure the change in color that occurs in apple slices over a short time course. Such measurements have been popularly used by food manufacturers to examine ingredients that inhibit fruit browning. Interestingly, as will be noted, many of the ingredients used commercially to inhibit food browning are also popular skin-brightening ingredients. We have found that a DermaLab (Cortex Technologies, Hadsund, Denmark) chromameter measuring the erythema index of apple slice darkening appears to be able to differentiate the benefit of a formulation containing azelaic acid, a known skin-lightening ingredient, to minimize the darkening effects that occur in sliced apples. We will discuss how different apples behave differently when cut and how to best use the chromameter to analyze the changes that occur that can potentially help rapidly screen ingredients for their skin-brightening benefits.

Luxury skin care products have emotional value because of their texture and accompanying product information. The influence of these factors appears to be linked. Here, we investigated the influence of information on brain activity during hand massages with skin care creams in healthy female volunteers. In the first session, participants received hand massages using two skin care creams (luxury and basic). In the second session, participants were shown information which indicated whether each cream was a luxury or basic product during the massage. In the third session, they received a hand massage as per the first session. Functional magnetic resonance imaging data were recorded during massages. Differential activity in the ventral striatum (VS), the caudate nucleus, and the dorsomedial prefrontal cortex (DMPFC) was significantly higher in the third session than in the first session. Moreover, differential activity in the right dorsolateral prefrontal cortex (DLPFC) was positively correlated with differential activity in both the VS and the DMPFC in the third session. These results suggest that the neural substrate of the effects is based on both the dopamine reward system and the self-other distinction system involved in social dominance and that the right DLPFC plays a critical role in the association between these systems.

Surfactants possess the ability to reduce surface tension at low concentrations, resulting in emulsification, foaming, wetting, and solubilizing. As a versatile industrial material, surfactants can be widely used as additives in the industrial field as different as textile, metal processing, mineral processing, new materials, industrial cleaning, construction, and pharmaceuticals. The most extensive application of surfactants perhaps is in the household and cosmetic industries, such as laundry detergents, dishwashing detergents, facial and body cleansers, and preparation of emulsions and creams. However, the extensive use of detergents, cleaners, and cleansers on skin may cause itching, redness, and dryness termed as surfactant-induced irritation, which is at least, partially due to surfactant penetration into skin. To understand how surfactants penetrate into skin, this review summarizes the penetration models proposed by researchers in the past two decades, including the surfactant monomer penetration model, the surfactant micelle and submicelle penetration model, and the recently proposed surfactant charge density and penetration correlation model that demonstrates the correlation between the surfactant charge density and skin penetration.

Previous studies have shown that the date palm kernel contains plenty of phytochemicals of potential rejuvenation benefits to skin. The aim of this study was to investigate a cream form containing date palm kernel extract (DPKE) on facial wrinkle reduction and objective skin parameters in healthy subjects. A cream form containing 5% DPKE was prepared and applied twice daily for 8 weeks on the facial skin of 43 volunteers. Biophysical measurements including skin hydration, elasticity, and pigmentation as well as optical scanning of skin surface were carried out after 4 and 8 weeks. Significant improvement in facial skin hydration, elasticity, and melanin concentration together with reduction in the wrinkle size and depth were observed at the two time points of measurements. In addition, DPKE cream was extremely well tolerated by the facial skin of study participants. The work herein demonstrates and validates the use of cream form containing 5% DPKE over placebo against fine lines and wrinkles, skin pigmentations, skin hydration, and elasticity. This effect may be attributed to synergism of major phytochemicals and phytosterols present in DPKE.

The electrokinetic (ζ, zeta) potential was determined for a series of commercial tattoo pigments. A standard experimental method involving the measuring of the level difference formed in a U-shaped tube filled with a solution containing the dye after application of some potential difference was used to find ζ-potential values. All of them were negative and sufficiently large to ensure electrophoretic mobility of the pigment particles in a special gelatin-based electrophoretic bed. Gelatin-based beds, one containing a pigment and the other without the pigment, were set side by side in a microelectrophoretic cell. The application of relatively low potential difference (20-25 V) provoked the migration of the pigment in the gelatin bed without pigment for as much as 10 mm after a 40-minute long electrophoresis. The intensity of the color of the pigment did decrease noticeably. These results seem to indicate the potential applicability of the reported method for the elimination of old and/or unwanted tattoo and of tattoo traces left after previous manipulations.

Coffee roasting industries generate a by-product called coffee silverskin that is usually disposed of as waste. The valorization of this abundant waste is necessary because of the antioxidant compounds in coffee silverskin. In this study, coffee silverskin was extracted in different extraction conditions to obtain an extract with high antioxidant activity and to use it as an additive for antioxidant skin gel. The extracts were characterized for the total phenolic content by using the Folin-Ciocalteu method. The antioxidant activity was determined by using the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl free radical scavenging assay. It was found that the extraction time and temperature strongly affected the total phenolic content and the antioxidant activity of the extracts. The extraction at 40°C and 60 min resulted in an extract with a high total phenolic content of 31.15 ± 2.77 mg Gallic Acid Equivalent/g coffee silverskin and a high antioxidant activity of 68.44 ± 0.76%. The extract solution was spray-dried to produce extract powder, which was then added to a basic skin gel with different extract concentrations. It was observed that the antioxidant activity of the gel increased with increasing extract concentration in the gel. This result showed that coffee silverskin has great potential as a source of antioxidants for various skin care products.

Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser (KTTKS) minimally crosses the skin because of hydrophilicity; therefore, its palmitoyl derivative, palmitoyl-KTTKS (Pal-KTTKS), is used in cosmetic products. In spite of this, there is insuffi cient information on its physicochemical properties and the effects of palmitoylation on such properties. The aim of this study was to investigate these properties. Such information would help appropriate formulation development. KTTKS and Pal-KTTKS were synthesized and characterized for ultra violet (UV) absorption, structure [X-ray diffraction (XRD)], morphology (electron microscopy), birefringence (polarized light microscopy), partitioning,solubility, thermal behavior (melting, thermogravimetric analysis, and differential scanning calorimetry), surface activity, critical micelle concentration (CMC, by tensiometry), and stability. KTTKS and Pal-KTTKS decomposed at about 154 and 150°C, respectively, and did not show a melting point before decomposition. The maximum UV absorbance of peptides was less than 200 nm. Both peptides showed birefringence, irregular flake morphologies, and hygroscopicity. KTTKS was freely soluble in water at room temperature (logP = -1.6 ± 0.15), indicating its hydrophilic nature. logP of Pal-KTTKS was calculated to be about 3.7, indicating a lipophilic compound. Pal-KTTKS showed surface activity with a CMC value of 0.024 ± 0.004 mM (19.25 ± 2.9 mg/L),whereas KTTKS did not show such surface activity. Palmitoylation demonstrated sharp peaks in the XRD pattern of KTTKS. KTTKS and Pal-KTTKS differ mainly in terms of chemical properties and show some similarity in physical properties. These results can be used for formulation developments.