Journal of cosmetic science最新文献

Consumer demand for foods and cosmetics containing naturally derived ingredients has been increasing. Naturally derived anthocyanins (ACNs), from fruits and vegetables, were previously demonstrated to provide a wide range of hues as lipstick colorants with high stability. Therefore, the objective of this study was to evaluate the use of ACNs as bioactive pigments in lipstick formulations. Commercially available sources of nonacylated and acylated derivatives of the six major ACN aglycones were incorporated into a commercial lipstick base. The ACN-containing lipsticks were evaluated for their ability to act as ultraviolet (UV) absorbers [a source of sun protection factor (SPF)], free radical scavengers against 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), and preventers of melanin formation through tyrosinase inhibition. All formulas showed increased UV absorption over the lipstick base, and acylated ACNs contributed to the highest in vitro SPF (UVB) values (≥15.8) in formulations. All formulas exhibited high inhibition of DPPH free radicals and inhibition of melanin production by tyrosinase at microgram per milligram concentrations similar to or less than kojic acid (2.41 ± 0.06 µg/mg). This is physiologically relevant because lipstick use is on average 24 mg/day. This study suggests the potential for ACNs to be used as biologically active ingredients in lipstick formulations by acting as antioxidants and UV-protection and antiaging compounds.

The skin mildness of two commercial laundry detergents designed for sensitive skin, Tide Free and Gentle^® (TFG) versus All Free Clear^® (AFC), was compared in clinical studies, and the role of marked product pH differences was assessed. Two double-blind randomized human studies were conducted. Study 1 was a 1-day repeat insult forearm test, in which four exposures to solutions of TFG or AFC were performed to mimic direct exposure to dilute detergent during hand-laundering. Corneometer, erythema and dryness grading, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and skin surface pH evaluations were carried out. Study 2 was a 21-day arm patch test of fabrics washed with TFG or AFC to mimic indirect contact to skin of detergent residues, with erythema grading. Separately, pH and reserve alkalinity were determined for each detergent. In Study 1, TFG was significantly milder than AFC in all measures except TEWL (no significant difference). In Study 2, the detergents were approximately equivalent in erythema grading. Analysis showed AFC was substantially more alkaline (pH 10.8) than TFG (pH 7.9) with higher reserve alkalinity. TFG was significantly milder than AFC in Study 1, which may be due in part to the increased skin surface pH seen with direct exposure to AFC's high alkalinity.

Dry skin in winter and moisturization are important topics. We included 72 patients with a diagnosis of dry skin in winter, and the patients were instructed to apply moisturizing products as part of their treatment plan from October 2017 to January 2018. We contacted the patients via telephone 2 weeks after the dermatologist appointment. The results from this study showed that patient adherence to dermatologist-recommended moisturizers is low. This study indicates that patients need more guidance in their dry skin treatment.

The objective was to assess the variables related to the usage of cosmetic products among a representative sample of the Lebanese population, including self-perception, facial attractiveness satisfaction, body image, and self-esteem. This is a cross-sectional study, conducted between January 2018 and June 2018, which enrolled 2,072 female participants using a proportionate random sample from all Lebanese Mohafazat. The results of a linear regression, taking the customary cosmetic usage score as the dependent variable, showed that an increase in the self-esteem score (β = -0.21) and being of Muslim religion compared with Christianity (β = -1.39) were significantly associated with lower cosmetic usage score. On another hand, an increase in the appearance orientation (AO) score (β = 0.55) and having a high (β = 2.18) and an intermediate (β = 0.99) socioeconomic status compared with a low one were associated with a higher cosmetic usage score respectively. According to our study, the use of cosmetic products by Lebanese women is associated with many factors such as AO, self-esteem, socioeconomic status, religion, and marital status. These results can open a window to other studies that might consider the relationship between personality traits, depression, and anxiety with the frequency of makeup use.

Recent increases in air pollution have raised concerns about its adverse effects on human health. Sacran is a natural polysaccharide isolated from a cyanobacterium. We previously reported that sacran improves skin conditions because of its effects as an artificial barrier against external stimuli, which suggested that sacran might protect the skin against air pollutants. The goal of this study was to characterize the potential of sacran to protect human skin against damage from air pollutants and to compare sacran with hyaluronic acid (HA). Sacran that was topically applied on the skin stayed on the surface or in the stratum corneum. Sacran-treated filters had a shielding effect against benzo[a]pyrene (BaP) and aldehyde compounds contained in tobacco smoke. Sacran suppressed the upregulation of cytochrome P4501A1 messenger ribonucleic acid (mRNA), which is a xenobiotic-metabolizing enzyme induced by BaP, and other responses against tobacco smoke in HaCaT keratinocytes. Furthermore, topical application of a serum containing 0.04% sacran on the skin reduced levels of carbonylated proteins in corneocytes of tobacco smokers. Sacran showed superior effects in every characteristic measured, compared with HA. We conclude that sacran ameliorates the oxidative stress initiated by tobacco smoke by shielding the skin surface and protects human skin.

This report explores dry-skin models to assess the potential of a new lip balm formulation to hydrate dry skin or lips, and presents sun protection factor (SPF) values for five new lip balm formulations. Evaporimeter [for transepidermal water loss (TEWL)], Skicon^®, and Corneometer^® were used to measure hydrating effects of lip balm formulations in a dry-skin leg model, and TEWL, DermaLab^® Moisture Meter, Corneometer^®, and visual assessments were used with a dry-lip model. SPF studies were conducted in accordance with either the U.S. Food and Drug Administration monograph final rule or international standard ISO 24444. Data from dry-skin leg model demonstrate that a new lip balm formulation significantly improves skin hydration compared with untreated leg skin and four comparator products. Data obtained from a dry-lip model proved unreliable. Five new lip balm formulations exhibited sunscreen capability; however, they did not meet the intended SPF. There were no product-related adverse events with the formulations. Although the new lip balm formulation improved hydration, data from a novel dry-lip model proved unreliable therefore further testing is required to confirm these benefits. Five new lip balm formulations provided sunscreen capability but did not meet the intended SPF, and will undergo reformulation and retesting.

Numerous tests have been developed to estimate a surfactant's mildness in rinse-off formulations. In this study, mixed surfactant systems were examined for their impact on surfactant penetration into the skin and skin hydration using in vivo and ex vivo methods. A forearm controlled application test (FCAT) was conducted, and skin hydration was evaluated using corneometry and visual dryness grading. Tape strip and cup scrub extractions were completed within the FCAT to examine the penetration of five individual surfactants into the skin in vivo. The ratio of surfactant mass extracted by five pooled tape strips to surfactant mass extracted by cup scrubs was found to be in the range of 40-59%. Furthermore, cup scrub collection and analysis was less time-consuming and less expensive to conduct than tape stripping. Thus, we recommend cup scrub extraction as a suitable substitute for tape stripping in future surfactant skin penetration analyses. In vivo results were compared with ex vivo ¹⁴C-sodium dodecyl sulfate (¹⁴C-SDS) penetration into human cadaver skin from the same surfactant systems. In vivo measurements conducted in the FCAT, including corneometer reading, visual dryness score, and individual surfactant (sodium laureth (1) ether sulfate and cocamidopropyl betaine) extracted from the skin, were found to correlate well with ¹⁴C-SDS penetration into the skin ex vivo for anion-based surfactant systems. Thus, ¹⁴C-SDS skin penetration may be a useful preclinical test for skin dryness induced by rinse-off products containing anionic surfactants.

The aim of the work was to evaluate and analyze the functional properties of a new emulsion product made according to our recipe containing interesterified fat with the properties of selected popular preparations used in the care of atopic skin. Also, the composition of all tested preparations was analyzed for active substances contained in these preparations. Skin hydration level and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) after application of commercial formulations as well as of our own preparation on the basis of interesterified fat were assessed. Determination of droplets' size and their distribution was performed for our own preparation using dynamic laser diffraction technique. Stability of the prepared emulsion in different storage conditions was evaluated by the Turbiscan test. The highest average skin hydration increase was observed after the application of cream C5, which contained a unique component-evening primrose oil. The highest decrease in TEWL was obtained after the application of our own formulation. Sensory analysis showed that the highest scores were obtained for creams. Respondents evaluated our own preparation as not fully satisfying. The obtained results showed the possibility of producing an emulsion with interesterified fat application as a formulation for atopic skin care. Its physical characteristics showed stability of the dispersion. However, parameters such as color, smoothing, cushion effect, and absorption should be improved.

Seaweed is rich source of natural bioactive compounds that could be exploited as functional ingredient for cosmetic applications. The aim of this study was to evaluate the biochemical compositions and bioactivities of 10 seaweeds collected from coastal waters of Vietnam. The present study also prepared and evaluated cream mask from mixture of seaweeds extracted with water. The results showed that Caulerpa lentillifera, Sargassum crassifolium, Ulva reticulata, and Kappaphycus alvarezii are potential rich sources of protein, polysaccharide, carotenoids, and vitamins with high antibacterial, cell proliferation, moisture retention, and tyrosinase inhibitory activities. Physicochemical analysis of cream mask from a mixture of these seaweed extracts indicated that it is yellowish brown in color with a specific odor of seaweed, stable, and homogeneous for up to 12 months of storage, with a pH of 6.1, and high spread and adhesive abilities. No total aerobic mesophilic microorganisms, Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Candida albicans, and heavy metals were detected in the seaweed mask cream. The seaweed cream mask was safe and caused no irritation to normal human skin, and it satisfied provisions of Circular No. 06/2011/TT-BYT dated January 25, 2011 of the Vietnam Ministry of Health, providing cosmetic management for the cosmetic products with anti-aging and moisturizing effects.