Journal of cosmetic science最新文献

Saturated and unsaturated fatty acids make up 85% of the total hair lipid content and are found in the cuticle and cortical cell membrane complex. Although these lipids only make up 2-6% of the hair's overall weight, they play a crucial role in keeping hair healthy, influencing shine, feel, manageability, and strength. The objective of this work was to understand the mechanisms of how these lipids are lost on exposure to external stressors, such as chemical treatments, washing, and UV exposure and to understand how their loss impacts hair strength. The experimental approach was to measure these lipids and oxidation products, lipid peroxides (LPOs) and correlate their loss with fatigue strength measurements. The results show lipids are lost over time by washing, exposure to chemical treatments, such as coloring, and environmental insults, such as UV, and it was confirmed that a mechanism of degradation is via oxidation of unsaturated lipids to form LPOs. In addition, it was shown that replenishment of these lipids is possible by incorporating lipids, such as fatty alcohols (FaOHs), into a gel network with anionic surfactants to create a delivery system that can efficiently penetrate FaOHs into hair and increase internal strength as measured by fatigue.

For many decades, applied hair research has been hampered by an unproductive intellectual and conceptual divide between researchers who are primarily interested in the hair shaft (HS), its structural properties, visual appearance and cosmetic manipulation, and those investigators who are mainly interested in the fascinating miniorgan that cyclically regenerates the HS, the hair follicle (HF). This article attempts to bridge this unproductive divide between the "dead hair" and "live follicle" worlds by summarizing both current key concepts and major open questions on how the HF, namely, the anagen hair bulb and its precortical hair matrix keratinocytes, generate the HS, focusing on selected key signaling pathways. We discuss current theories of hair shape formation and avenues toward impacting on human HS structure. The article closes by delineating which instructive preclinical research assays are needed to ultimately close the experimental gap between HS and HF researchers in a manner that benefits consumers.

Dead Sea mud (DSM) is commonly used by patients with various skin conditions because of its contents of healing elements. No study was published to show whether DSM application weakens or strengthens skin barrier function. In this study, we investigated the impact of 30-minute single application of various types of DSM ("As Is" mud, mud with extra Dead Sea salt, and over-the-shelf mud) on the barrier function of normal skin. The influence of 30-minute application of various types of DSM was investigated noninvasively on skin barrier properties of healthy female adult volunteers (n = 75) on predetermined circular areas. Skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), erythema and melanin levels, and skin pH were measured directly, 30 minutes, and 60 minutes after mud removal. Thirty-minute single application of DSM was well tolerated with short-lived moisturizing effects, which was enhanced by the presence of humectant ingredients, and with no negative impact on barrier integrity, pH, and erythema and melanin levels.

3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid may be a good whitening ingredient in cosmetics. However, before it can be successfully used in cosmetics, its biofunctionality and stability need to be comprehensively investigated. The reduction and 2,2-Diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) free radical scavenging ability of this compound were analyzed to assess its antioxidant potential. In addition, the tyrosinase inhibitory ability was analyzed to show the whitening capacity of 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid. Response surface methodology (RSM) was used to determine the optimal conditions for the ascorbic acid derivative in cosmetics. Based on the DPPH radical scavenging ability results, the half-inhibitory concentration (IC₅₀) value of 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid was 0.032 g/L. It also showed a good reducing ability at 1.5 g/L concentration. Based on the tyrosinase inhibition analysis, the IC₅₀ value was 7.5 g/L. The optimal conditions to achieve the best stability were determined from the RSM as 36.3°C and pH 5.46.

Glutathione reduced (GSH) is the mother of all the antioxidants and has an antimelanogenic effect. It is extremely vulnerable to oxidation in the solution form which limits its use. The GSH in nano-oil droplets present a potential solution to this problem. The aim of this study was to formulate glutathione-loaded nanoemulsion and assess its stability studies over a 90-day testing period. To formulate GSH-loaded nanoemulsion pseudo-ternary phase diagram, it was built with various concentrations of water, liquid paraffin oil, and surfactant mixture (Tween 80 and Span 80). The oily phase was prepared by dissolving the GSH (450 mg) in liquid paraffin oil through stirring. High-energy homogenization was used to prepare the nanoemulsion. From preformulation stability studies of the 28-day testing period, nanoemulsion (NE-19) with oil and surfactant mixture ratio (1:1) of hydrophilic lipophilic balance (HLB) value 10 was selected. The samples of NE-19 and its respective base (B-19) were kept at four different storage conditions for a period of 90 days and evaluated for physical characteristics, droplet size and distribution analysis, zeta potential analysis, electrical conductivity, mobility, polydispersity, pH, phase separation, and flow analysis at different time intervals. Glutathione in nano-oil droplets with nonionic surfactants produced oil-in-water nanoemulsions that were thermodynamically stable over the 90-day testing period at different storage conditions. NE-19 was formulated having non-Newtonian flow and pseudo-plastic behavior. pH was found in the range of 5-6. Polydispersity was less than 0.3. The droplet size of fresh nanoemulsion was 96.05 nm, whereas the zeta potential was -37.1. Mobility and electrical conductivity were -2.726 µm cm/Vs and 0.0141 mS/cm, respectively. Glutathione-loaded nanoemulsions have excellent stability, promising the solution in nano-oil droplets and are suggested for in-vivo release studies for oxidative skin related diseases.

FT-NIR spectroscopy and color measurements were applied to evaluate the influence of packaging on cosmetic cream stored at room and refrigerated conditions. Commercial cosmetic cream was stored for 2 and 4 mo in five containers intended for cosmetics: aluminum jar with polypropylene thermos (Al/PP), acrylic jar with polypropylene thermos (Ac/PP), glass (G) jar, polypropylene (PP) jar, and styrene acrylonitrile (SAN) jars. Principal component analysis (PCA) of the FT-NIR spectra showed the effect of time on tested samples stored in all applied packagings; separate groups were formed by fresh samples and samples stored for 2 and 4 mo. The changes in samples stored in the cold for 2 mo were similar for all applied packagings as compared with fresh samples, although samples stored in SAN jars formed a separate group. After 4 mo, a separate group was formed by samples stored in G jars. For samples stored at room temperature, the influence of packaging material on cosmetic emulsion was clearly visible; four separate groups (Al/PP with PP, Ac/PP, G, and SAN) were created by samples stored for 4 mo. Using partial least squares (PLS1) regression, it was found that the FT-NIR spectra of tested samples correlated with their lightness L*, a* parameter, and total color difference ΔE ^* _ab . FT-NIR spectroscopy is a rapid technique which could be useful to make the best choice of packaging for cosmetics protecting the original quality of products during long-term storage.

Five distyryl-type fluorescent whitening agents (FWA85, 210, 220, 351, and 353) were determined in cosmetics and liquid detergent by high-performance liquid chromatography with diode array detector in tandem with fluorescence detector. The samples were extracted with ultrasound in 33% acetonitrile for 10 minutes and the components were determined by ion-pair chromatography on an MG C18 column. The limits of detection were from 0.01 to 0.1 mg·kg^-1 and the limits of quantification were from 0.04 to 0.4 mg·kg^-1. The recovery was from 80.7 to 103.3%. A linear relationship was present from 0.10 to 100 µg·ml^-1 of FWAs. The protocol was simple, sensitive, selective, and was successfully applied to analyze distyryl-type FWAs in cosmetics and liquid detergent. FWA351 and FWA85 were detected in several samples with the concentrations of 19.4-1,130 mg·kg^-1.

Insects may provide an environmentally friendly way of producing high-quality bio-based materials that can be implemented for cosmetic applications. Insects can be bred on organic waste, in high numbers, and on small surfaces, therefore, making large scale industrial breeding possible. Fats from three insect species: the black soldier fly (BSF) (Hermetia illucens), the locust (Locusta migratoria), and the house cricket (Acheta domesticus) were evaluated for potential use in skin care. Insects were dried and fats were extracted using petroleum ether. The fats were further refined, and the fatty acid composition and the acid value were determined. The fats were used in a hand cream formulation and compared with the currently used mink-and plant-derived oils. Fatty acid analysis indicates that BSF contains > 60% of lauric acid, which makes it less suitable for application in a skin-care product, whereas locust and cricket fats are rich in C16 and C18 fatty acids which makes them more suitable. Phospholipids and free fatty acid levels in the three insect species are relatively high compared with commercial, refined oils, and need to be removed by appropriate refining protocols. Odor and color also need to be removed by physical refinement to improve the applicability.

A mechanistic understanding of the role of polymers in waterproofing anhydrous sunscreen formulations has been hypothesized in the past, but has never been clearly established. In this article, we demonstrate the utility of field emission scanning electron microscopy (SEM) to generate images of sunscreen films in the presence and absence of several polymers. VA/butyl maleate/isobornyl acrylate copolymer was studied alone and in combination with hydroxypropyl cellulose and acrylates/dimethicone copolymer. Anhydrous sunscreen formulations were sprayed onto stratum corneum substrates and left to dry. SEM micrographs of treated stratum corneum sections were then collected at various magnifications. Vapor transmission data were collected using an evaporimeter to understand the permeability of these films in the presence and absence of film formers. Examination of the SEM images reveals that after spraying the product onto a layer of corneocytes, the sunscreen filters formed a hydrophobic barrier over the skin, whereas added polymers formed films over the sunscreen layer. The shape of the film formed by various polymers and its porosity were influenced by chemistry and concentration. When more than one polymer was incorporated in the sunscreen formulation, the interactions between the polymers influenced the formation of the film. Cumulative evaporimeter data indicated that the sunscreen phase had the highest reduction in cumulative evaporation rate (39.3%/h) followed by the addition of a film former to the spray, which reached an additional reduction of 17.9%/h in the best case. This method was also used to examine the film properties of a commercial sun protection factor 30 sunscreen product containing VA/butyl maleate/isobornyl acrylate copolymer. SEM micrographs of the commercial product applied to skin showed the same fingerprint as prototype formulations containing VA/butyl maleate/isobornyl acrylate copolymer. Overall, this method can be used by sun care scientists in the development and optimization of anhydrous sunscreen sprays.

Regular usage of cosmetic products and drugs in dermatological vehicles may cause irritant contact dermatitis. For example, aluminum chloride (AlCl₃), the most efficacious antiperspirant salt to treat hyperhidrosis, shows high irritancy potential. To mitigate the irritant contact dermatitis caused by topical application of products containing AlCl₃, we investigated the anti-irritating effects of aloe extract and taurine in vitro and in vivo. In an in vitro experiment, reconstructed human epidermis model, EpiDerm, was tested with AlCl₃ in the presence or absence of taurine and aloe extract. In a human clinical study, 12 adult subjects were tested with two products, a commercial AlCl₃ antiperspirant product and a prototype 12% AlCl₃ formulation containing 0.1% taurine and 0.1% aloe extract. Skin irritation potential in vitro and in vivo was measured by the release of pro-inflammatory cytokine, IL-1α, and chemokine, IL-8. Taurine and aloe extract significantly (p < 0.05) reduced IL-lα and IL-8 production in vitro and in vivo after topical application of formulations containing AlCl₃. The blend of taurine and aloe extract demonstrated boosted anti-irritation benefits on AlCl₃ irritated skin both in vitro and in vivo. These results suggest that the combination of these anti-irritating actives may possibly be effective in mitigating irritant contact dermatitis caused by other dermatological vehicles containing irritating agents, but further research is warranted to assess their effects.