Pub Date : 2000-09-01DOI: 10.2752/152897900786732781
Enrico Carison Cumbo
Abstract Every year, on the third Sunday of May, the Sicilian Salemi community in Toronto holds a religious festa in honor of San Francesco di Paola. On average, the celebration attracts five to six thousand people and includes a special Mass and panegyrics followed by a street procession of the saint's statue, a life size-figure draped in ribbons pinned with money as votive offerings. The statue is accompanied by a musical band, church and committee officials, society standard bearers, Third Order members, and other devotees. The event is a fairly typical Italian immigrant festa except for two central, unique features, both associated with food: i.e., the pietanze meal just prior to Mass, involving the ritual feeding of thirteen children in a tent enclosure adjacent to the church and the nearby display of a spectacular “chapel” or shrine (the cena) covered entirely in oranges, lemons and ornately shaped breads of every size. This paper examines this feast, and its food associations in particular, as a religious and ethnic evenet. Food, of course, is about more than taste and nutrition. It is also, as Roland Barthes writes, “a system of communication, a body of images, a protocol of usages, situations, and behavior.” The preparation, display and distribution select foods in the San Francesco di Paola feast have symbolic importance as conduits of social, religious, and cultural meaning. The same is said about the Salernitan immigrants' sense of themselves as Catholics and as Sicilian- and Italian-Canadians in modern-day Tornoto. The annual, public reenactment of the festa, now approaching its thirtieth year, highlights the significance placed on the presentation of communal (regional, national, and religious) identity. This is manifest especially in the symbology and rituals surrounding the display and distribution of the feast's most striking features–the pietanze meal and the cena breads.
每年5月的第三个星期日,多伦多西西里的萨莱米社区都会举行宗教节日,以纪念圣弗朗西斯科·迪·保拉。平均而言,庆祝活动会吸引五到六千人,其中包括一场特别的弥撒和颂词,随后是圣徒雕像的街头游行,一个真人大小的人物身上披着丝带,上面别着作为祭品的钱。雕像由乐队、教堂和委员会官员、社会旗手、第三秩序成员和其他奉献者陪同。这个活动是一个相当典型的意大利移民节日,除了两个独特的中心特征,都与食物有关:即,弥撒前的pietanze餐,包括在教堂附近的帐篷里为13个孩子提供仪式性的食物,以及附近一个壮观的“小教堂”或神龛(cena)的展示,上面完全覆盖着橙子、柠檬和形状各异的华丽面包。本文考察了这个节日,特别是它的食物协会,作为一个宗教和民族事件。当然,食物不仅仅是味道和营养。正如罗兰·巴特(Roland Barthes)所写,它也是“一种交流系统,一组图像,一套用法、情境和行为的协议。”在San Francesco di Paola盛宴中,准备、展示和分发精选食物作为社会、宗教和文化意义的管道具有象征意义。同样的道理也适用于萨尔勒尼移民,他们认为自己是天主教徒,是西西里和意大利裔加拿大人。一年一度的公开重演的节日,现在接近其第三十个年头,强调了对社区(地区,国家和宗教)身份的重要性。这在象征和仪式上表现得尤为明显,围绕着节日最引人注目的特征——pietanze餐和cena面包的展示和分发。
{"title":"La Festa del Pane: Food, Devotion and Ethnic Identity, The Feast of San Francesco di Paola, Toronto","authors":"Enrico Carison Cumbo","doi":"10.2752/152897900786732781","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2752/152897900786732781","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Every year, on the third Sunday of May, the Sicilian Salemi community in Toronto holds a religious festa in honor of San Francesco di Paola. On average, the celebration attracts five to six thousand people and includes a special Mass and panegyrics followed by a street procession of the saint's statue, a life size-figure draped in ribbons pinned with money as votive offerings. The statue is accompanied by a musical band, church and committee officials, society standard bearers, Third Order members, and other devotees. The event is a fairly typical Italian immigrant festa except for two central, unique features, both associated with food: i.e., the pietanze meal just prior to Mass, involving the ritual feeding of thirteen children in a tent enclosure adjacent to the church and the nearby display of a spectacular “chapel” or shrine (the cena) covered entirely in oranges, lemons and ornately shaped breads of every size. This paper examines this feast, and its food associations in particular, as a religious and ethnic evenet. Food, of course, is about more than taste and nutrition. It is also, as Roland Barthes writes, “a system of communication, a body of images, a protocol of usages, situations, and behavior.” The preparation, display and distribution select foods in the San Francesco di Paola feast have symbolic importance as conduits of social, religious, and cultural meaning. The same is said about the Salernitan immigrants' sense of themselves as Catholics and as Sicilian- and Italian-Canadians in modern-day Tornoto. The annual, public reenactment of the festa, now approaching its thirtieth year, highlights the significance placed on the presentation of communal (regional, national, and religious) identity. This is manifest especially in the symbology and rituals surrounding the display and distribution of the feast's most striking features–the pietanze meal and the cena breads.","PeriodicalId":285878,"journal":{"name":"Journal for the Study of Food and Society","volume":"85 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2000-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"126235275","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2000-09-01DOI: 10.2752/152897900786732790
W. Whit, Judy D. Whipps
Food practice and epistemology seem logically contradictory. Food practice involves doing. Epistemology, as it is usually conceived, is the theory of how we know what we (think) we know. How then should action and thinking be reconciled? And how can abstract theories about the process of knowing be applied to the very concrete study of food? Likewise, can studying food reveal anything new about how we know?
{"title":"Food Practice as Epistemology","authors":"W. Whit, Judy D. Whipps","doi":"10.2752/152897900786732790","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2752/152897900786732790","url":null,"abstract":"Food practice and epistemology seem logically contradictory. Food practice involves doing. Epistemology, as it is usually conceived, is the theory of how we know what we (think) we know. How then should action and thinking be reconciled? And how can abstract theories about the process of knowing be applied to the very concrete study of food? Likewise, can studying food reveal anything new about how we know?","PeriodicalId":285878,"journal":{"name":"Journal for the Study of Food and Society","volume":"38 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2000-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"114953826","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2000-09-01DOI: 10.2752/152897900786732808
G. Allen
"Eat drink man woman," said the chef/father, giving Ang Lee's movie a title. Of course, he was not speaking to the director about movie titles -he was answering his daughter's question about the nature of life itself. The precise economy of his words and their pithy elegance may be unusual, but the concept is not. Almost every culture considers there to be a profound linkage, or sacred balance, between the two primal activities, eating and reproduction. To make sure we get the point, they often emphasize it with anthropophagic figures of speech. Consider such expressions as: "I could just eat you up" and "you look good enough to eat."
{"title":"Desire on the Menu","authors":"G. Allen","doi":"10.2752/152897900786732808","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2752/152897900786732808","url":null,"abstract":"\"Eat drink man woman,\" said the chef/father, giving Ang Lee's movie a title. Of course, he was not speaking to the director about movie titles -he was answering his daughter's question about the nature of life itself. The precise economy of his words and their pithy elegance may be unusual, but the concept is not. Almost every culture considers there to be a profound linkage, or sacred balance, between the two primal activities, eating and reproduction. To make sure we get the point, they often emphasize it with anthropophagic figures of speech. Consider such expressions as: \"I could just eat you up\" and \"you look good enough to eat.\"","PeriodicalId":285878,"journal":{"name":"Journal for the Study of Food and Society","volume":"12 5 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2000-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"130378606","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2000-03-01DOI: 10.2752/152897900786690823
Bill Whit
{"title":"The Association for the Study of Food and Society Newsletter: Continuities and Change","authors":"Bill Whit","doi":"10.2752/152897900786690823","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2752/152897900786690823","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":285878,"journal":{"name":"Journal for the Study of Food and Society","volume":"8 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2000-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"133031284","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2000-03-01DOI: 10.2752/152897900786690797
B. Cooke
{"title":"Food in Russian History and Culture","authors":"B. Cooke","doi":"10.2752/152897900786690797","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2752/152897900786690797","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":285878,"journal":{"name":"Journal for the Study of Food and Society","volume":"1 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2000-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"122053447","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2000-03-01DOI: 10.2752/152897900786690788
Anneke H. van Otterloo
The article deals with the ways in which relationships of increasing interdependency were established between households and industrializing companies, through the production of food and cooking equipment. This development started in the inter-war period and gained momentum after 1945. A new phase of mechanization and chemicalization was underway: new food products and new cookery techniques, including the use of electric cookers and other electrical equipment, were introduced. Primary sources are drawn upon to support the thesis that it was not only the companies who, through their advertising, promoted a modernization of the kitchen and cooking. There was also a movement of ‘new housewives’, who embraced the new industrial products to save labour and time in housework, and burned with enthusiasm to spread the message of the modem, well-equipped and intimate family. These intermediaries between companies and households kept authority in the Netherlands until the 1970s. During this period prosperity was rising for ever broader groups of the population; this constituted another condition for the rapid mutual adaptation of supply and demand for industrialized food and modem ways of cooking.
{"title":"The Rationalization of Kitchen and Cooking 1920–1970","authors":"Anneke H. van Otterloo","doi":"10.2752/152897900786690788","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2752/152897900786690788","url":null,"abstract":"The article deals with the ways in which relationships of increasing interdependency were established between households and industrializing companies, through the production of food and cooking equipment. This development started in the inter-war period and gained momentum after 1945. A new phase of mechanization and chemicalization was underway: new food products and new cookery techniques, including the use of electric cookers and other electrical equipment, were introduced. Primary sources are drawn upon to support the thesis that it was not only the companies who, through their advertising, promoted a modernization of the kitchen and cooking. There was also a movement of ‘new housewives’, who embraced the new industrial products to save labour and time in housework, and burned with enthusiasm to spread the message of the modem, well-equipped and intimate family. These intermediaries between companies and households kept authority in the Netherlands until the 1970s. During this period prosperity was rising for ever broader groups of the population; this constituted another condition for the rapid mutual adaptation of supply and demand for industrialized food and modem ways of cooking.","PeriodicalId":285878,"journal":{"name":"Journal for the Study of Food and Society","volume":"163 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2000-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"116590581","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2000-03-01DOI: 10.2752/152897900786690805
M. Caraher, Tim Lange, P. Dixon
The claim from many health promoters in the United Kingdom that TV and cooking programs influence the way food is prepared and cooked is explored using data from a large quantitative survey of the English population supported by focus group research. TV cooking programs rate low as an influence on cooking behavior. The viewers of TV cooking programs see them as entertainment and adopt a sophisticated approach to their viewing. The celebrity chef is seen as an entertainer and not necessarily someone who will provide reliable advice on cooking and health matters. The results suggest that the use of public information or specific educationally commissioned programs from a health promotion perspective are limited in their appeal. Cooking programs appear to have an influence on the aesthetics of viewing, with viewers using them as a window on a wider social and cultural world. The implications of these findings are that health promotion policy and practice should be reoriented to support factors identified as important in helping people learn about cooking, such as the family and schools.
{"title":"The Influence of TV and Celebrity Chefs on Public Attitudes and Behavior Among the English Public","authors":"M. Caraher, Tim Lange, P. Dixon","doi":"10.2752/152897900786690805","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2752/152897900786690805","url":null,"abstract":"The claim from many health promoters in the United Kingdom that TV and cooking programs influence the way food is prepared and cooked is explored using data from a large quantitative survey of the English population supported by focus group research. TV cooking programs rate low as an influence on cooking behavior. The viewers of TV cooking programs see them as entertainment and adopt a sophisticated approach to their viewing. The celebrity chef is seen as an entertainer and not necessarily someone who will provide reliable advice on cooking and health matters. The results suggest that the use of public information or specific educationally commissioned programs from a health promotion perspective are limited in their appeal. Cooking programs appear to have an influence on the aesthetics of viewing, with viewers using them as a window on a wider social and cultural world. The implications of these findings are that health promotion policy and practice should be reoriented to support factors identified as important in helping people learn about cooking, such as the family and schools.","PeriodicalId":285878,"journal":{"name":"Journal for the Study of Food and Society","volume":"84 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2000-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"122356484","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2000-03-01DOI: 10.2752/152897900786690814
B. G. Shortridge
Geographers emphasize place when they study foodways, especially why people in one region eat differently from those in another. Quantitative data that can be mapped are useful to explore these issues, but, unfortunately, such information is scarce for large-scale projects. We know a lot about American food production through the censuses of agriculture, but little about who eats those products. Much of the existing data for food consumption is the result of proprietary marketing research done for food companies and is, therefore, inaccessible; other surveys involve sample sizes too small to determine regional patterns. More recently, geographers have begun to explore symbolic and other more qualitative issues related to food, place, and culture. They also have turned their attention from national to more local studies such as comparing restaurant menus across a hypothesized regional boundary or the persistence of ethnic dishes in a multicultural community. Useful data sources related to regional and ethnic food consumption include the Internet, telephone books, surveys and interviewing, cookbooks, promotional literature intended for tourists, and popular magazines.
{"title":"Geographic Data Sources for the Study of Regional Foods in the United States","authors":"B. G. Shortridge","doi":"10.2752/152897900786690814","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2752/152897900786690814","url":null,"abstract":"Geographers emphasize place when they study foodways, especially why people in one region eat differently from those in another. Quantitative data that can be mapped are useful to explore these issues, but, unfortunately, such information is scarce for large-scale projects. We know a lot about American food production through the censuses of agriculture, but little about who eats those products. Much of the existing data for food consumption is the result of proprietary marketing research done for food companies and is, therefore, inaccessible; other surveys involve sample sizes too small to determine regional patterns. More recently, geographers have begun to explore symbolic and other more qualitative issues related to food, place, and culture. They also have turned their attention from national to more local studies such as comparing restaurant menus across a hypothesized regional boundary or the persistence of ethnic dishes in a multicultural community. Useful data sources related to regional and ethnic food consumption include the Internet, telephone books, surveys and interviewing, cookbooks, promotional literature intended for tourists, and popular magazines.","PeriodicalId":285878,"journal":{"name":"Journal for the Study of Food and Society","volume":"1 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2000-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"133198216","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 1999-03-01DOI: 10.2752/152897999786690762
Daniel R. Block
The early twentieth century, or “The Progressive Era” was characterized by intense concern with food safety. Like today, this did not mean that food safety advocates formed a united front. This study examines conflicts within the Progressive Era pure milk movement between goals of purity, economy, and social welfare. In particular, two situations are examined: the conflict between advocates of pasteurization and certification; and conflicts within the Chicago Milk Commission, which provided pasteurized milk to children and, later, inspected certified milk producers. Pasteurization became much more popular than certification due to its economic superiority. The Chicago Milk Commission was torn apart by factions emphasizing competing goals. It is concluded that while groups representing the goals of purity, economy, and social welfare did not often agree, milk policy since this time has reflected all three of these goals. The conflicts between these groups parallel general issues within Progressive era society.
{"title":"Purity, Economy, and Social Welfare in the Progressive Era Pure Milk Movement","authors":"Daniel R. Block","doi":"10.2752/152897999786690762","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2752/152897999786690762","url":null,"abstract":"The early twentieth century, or “The Progressive Era” was characterized by intense concern with food safety. Like today, this did not mean that food safety advocates formed a united front. This study examines conflicts within the Progressive Era pure milk movement between goals of purity, economy, and social welfare. In particular, two situations are examined: the conflict between advocates of pasteurization and certification; and conflicts within the Chicago Milk Commission, which provided pasteurized milk to children and, later, inspected certified milk producers. Pasteurization became much more popular than certification due to its economic superiority. The Chicago Milk Commission was torn apart by factions emphasizing competing goals. It is concluded that while groups representing the goals of purity, economy, and social welfare did not often agree, milk policy since this time has reflected all three of these goals. The conflicts between these groups parallel general issues within Progressive era society.","PeriodicalId":285878,"journal":{"name":"Journal for the Study of Food and Society","volume":"174 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"1999-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"132339775","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 1999-03-01DOI: 10.2752/152897999786690690
B. Brown
{"title":"Memories Kitchen and My Memories","authors":"B. Brown","doi":"10.2752/152897999786690690","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2752/152897999786690690","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":285878,"journal":{"name":"Journal for the Study of Food and Society","volume":"71 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"1999-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"114311161","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}