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La Festa del Pane: Food, Devotion and Ethnic Identity, The Feast of San Francesco di Paola, Toronto La Festa del Pane:食物,奉献和民族认同,圣弗朗西斯科迪保拉的盛宴,多伦多
Pub Date : 2000-09-01 DOI: 10.2752/152897900786732781
Enrico Carison Cumbo
Abstract Every year, on the third Sunday of May, the Sicilian Salemi community in Toronto holds a religious festa in honor of San Francesco di Paola. On average, the celebration attracts five to six thousand people and includes a special Mass and panegyrics followed by a street procession of the saint's statue, a life size-figure draped in ribbons pinned with money as votive offerings. The statue is accompanied by a musical band, church and committee officials, society standard bearers, Third Order members, and other devotees. The event is a fairly typical Italian immigrant festa except for two central, unique features, both associated with food: i.e., the pietanze meal just prior to Mass, involving the ritual feeding of thirteen children in a tent enclosure adjacent to the church and the nearby display of a spectacular “chapel” or shrine (the cena) covered entirely in oranges, lemons and ornately shaped breads of every size. This paper examines this feast, and its food associations in particular, as a religious and ethnic evenet. Food, of course, is about more than taste and nutrition. It is also, as Roland Barthes writes, “a system of communication, a body of images, a protocol of usages, situations, and behavior.” The preparation, display and distribution select foods in the San Francesco di Paola feast have symbolic importance as conduits of social, religious, and cultural meaning. The same is said about the Salernitan immigrants' sense of themselves as Catholics and as Sicilian- and Italian-Canadians in modern-day Tornoto. The annual, public reenactment of the festa, now approaching its thirtieth year, highlights the significance placed on the presentation of communal (regional, national, and religious) identity. This is manifest especially in the symbology and rituals surrounding the display and distribution of the feast's most striking features–the pietanze meal and the cena breads.
每年5月的第三个星期日,多伦多西西里的萨莱米社区都会举行宗教节日,以纪念圣弗朗西斯科·迪·保拉。平均而言,庆祝活动会吸引五到六千人,其中包括一场特别的弥撒和颂词,随后是圣徒雕像的街头游行,一个真人大小的人物身上披着丝带,上面别着作为祭品的钱。雕像由乐队、教堂和委员会官员、社会旗手、第三秩序成员和其他奉献者陪同。这个活动是一个相当典型的意大利移民节日,除了两个独特的中心特征,都与食物有关:即,弥撒前的pietanze餐,包括在教堂附近的帐篷里为13个孩子提供仪式性的食物,以及附近一个壮观的“小教堂”或神龛(cena)的展示,上面完全覆盖着橙子、柠檬和形状各异的华丽面包。本文考察了这个节日,特别是它的食物协会,作为一个宗教和民族事件。当然,食物不仅仅是味道和营养。正如罗兰·巴特(Roland Barthes)所写,它也是“一种交流系统,一组图像,一套用法、情境和行为的协议。”在San Francesco di Paola盛宴中,准备、展示和分发精选食物作为社会、宗教和文化意义的管道具有象征意义。同样的道理也适用于萨尔勒尼移民,他们认为自己是天主教徒,是西西里和意大利裔加拿大人。一年一度的公开重演的节日,现在接近其第三十个年头,强调了对社区(地区,国家和宗教)身份的重要性。这在象征和仪式上表现得尤为明显,围绕着节日最引人注目的特征——pietanze餐和cena面包的展示和分发。
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引用次数: 4
Food Practice as Epistemology 作为认识论的食物实践
Pub Date : 2000-09-01 DOI: 10.2752/152897900786732790
W. Whit, Judy D. Whipps
Food practice and epistemology seem logically contradictory. Food practice involves doing. Epistemology, as it is usually conceived, is the theory of how we know what we (think) we know. How then should action and thinking be reconciled? And how can abstract theories about the process of knowing be applied to the very concrete study of food? Likewise, can studying food reveal anything new about how we know?
食物实践和认识论在逻辑上似乎是矛盾的。食物练习包括做。认识论,通常被认为是我们如何知道我们(认为)知道的东西的理论。那么,行动和思想应该如何调和呢?关于认知过程的抽象理论如何应用于对食物的具体研究呢?同样,对食物的研究能否揭示出我们是如何认识食物的?
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引用次数: 2
Desire on the Menu 菜单上的欲望
Pub Date : 2000-09-01 DOI: 10.2752/152897900786732808
G. Allen
"Eat drink man woman," said the chef/father, giving Ang Lee's movie a title. Of course, he was not speaking to the director about movie titles -he was answering his daughter's question about the nature of life itself. The precise economy of his words and their pithy elegance may be unusual, but the concept is not. Almost every culture considers there to be a profound linkage, or sacred balance, between the two primal activities, eating and reproduction. To make sure we get the point, they often emphasize it with anthropophagic figures of speech. Consider such expressions as: "I could just eat you up" and "you look good enough to eat."
“吃,喝,男人,女人,”这位厨师兼父亲说,给李安的电影取了一个名字。当然,他不是在和导演谈论电影的名字——他是在回答女儿关于生命本质的问题。他措辞的精确简洁和简洁优雅或许与众不同,但他的理念却并非如此。几乎每一种文化都认为在饮食和繁殖这两种原始活动之间存在着深刻的联系或神圣的平衡。为了确保我们明白这一点,他们经常用拟人的比喻来强调这一点。考虑这样的表达:“我想把你吃掉”和“你看起来很好吃。”
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引用次数: 1
The Association for the Study of Food and Society Newsletter: Continuities and Change 食品与社会研究协会通讯:连续性与变化
Pub Date : 2000-03-01 DOI: 10.2752/152897900786690823
Bill Whit
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引用次数: 0
Food in Russian History and Culture 俄罗斯历史和文化中的食物
Pub Date : 2000-03-01 DOI: 10.2752/152897900786690797
B. Cooke
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引用次数: 15
The Rationalization of Kitchen and Cooking 1920–1970 厨房和烹饪的合理化1920-1970
Pub Date : 2000-03-01 DOI: 10.2752/152897900786690788
Anneke H. van Otterloo
The article deals with the ways in which relationships of increasing interdependency were established between households and industrializing companies, through the production of food and cooking equipment. This development started in the inter-war period and gained momentum after 1945. A new phase of mechanization and chemicalization was underway: new food products and new cookery techniques, including the use of electric cookers and other electrical equipment, were introduced. Primary sources are drawn upon to support the thesis that it was not only the companies who, through their advertising, promoted a modernization of the kitchen and cooking. There was also a movement of ‘new housewives’, who embraced the new industrial products to save labour and time in housework, and burned with enthusiasm to spread the message of the modem, well-equipped and intimate family. These intermediaries between companies and households kept authority in the Netherlands until the 1970s. During this period prosperity was rising for ever broader groups of the population; this constituted another condition for the rapid mutual adaptation of supply and demand for industrialized food and modem ways of cooking.
这篇文章讨论了家庭和工业化公司之间通过生产食品和烹饪设备建立日益相互依赖关系的方式。这一发展始于两次世界大战之间的时期,并在1945年之后获得了动力。机械化和化学化的新阶段正在进行中:引进了新的食品和新的烹饪技术,包括使用电饭锅和其他电气设备。原始资料被用来支持这一论点,即不仅仅是公司通过广告促进了厨房和烹饪的现代化。还有一场“新家庭主妇”运动,她们接受新的工业产品,以节省家务劳动和时间,并热情地传播现代、装备精良、亲密家庭的信息。直到20世纪70年代,这些公司和家庭之间的中介机构在荷兰一直保持着权威。在这一时期,越来越多的人口群体繁荣起来;这为工业化食品的供需与现代烹饪方式的迅速相互适应构成了另一个条件。
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引用次数: 7
The Influence of TV and Celebrity Chefs on Public Attitudes and Behavior Among the English Public 电视和名厨对英国公众态度和行为的影响
Pub Date : 2000-03-01 DOI: 10.2752/152897900786690805
M. Caraher, Tim Lange, P. Dixon
The claim from many health promoters in the United Kingdom that TV and cooking programs influence the way food is prepared and cooked is explored using data from a large quantitative survey of the English population supported by focus group research. TV cooking programs rate low as an influence on cooking behavior. The viewers of TV cooking programs see them as entertainment and adopt a sophisticated approach to their viewing. The celebrity chef is seen as an entertainer and not necessarily someone who will provide reliable advice on cooking and health matters. The results suggest that the use of public information or specific educationally commissioned programs from a health promotion perspective are limited in their appeal. Cooking programs appear to have an influence on the aesthetics of viewing, with viewers using them as a window on a wider social and cultural world. The implications of these findings are that health promotion policy and practice should be reoriented to support factors identified as important in helping people learn about cooking, such as the family and schools.
英国许多健康推动者声称,电视和烹饪节目会影响食物的准备和烹饪方式,这一说法是通过对英国人口进行大规模定量调查的数据进行的,并得到焦点小组研究的支持。电视烹饪节目对烹饪行为的影响程度较低。电视烹饪节目的观众将其视为娱乐,并采用了一种复杂的观看方式。名厨被视为一种娱乐,而不一定会在烹饪和健康问题上提供可靠的建议。结果表明,从健康促进的角度来看,使用公共信息或特定的教育委托项目的吸引力有限。烹饪节目似乎对观看美学产生了影响,观众将其作为一扇通向更广阔社会和文化世界的窗口。这些发现的含义是,健康促进政策和实践应该重新定位,以支持那些被认为对帮助人们学习烹饪很重要的因素,比如家庭和学校。
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引用次数: 81
Geographic Data Sources for the Study of Regional Foods in the United States 美国地区食品研究的地理数据来源
Pub Date : 2000-03-01 DOI: 10.2752/152897900786690814
B. G. Shortridge
Geographers emphasize place when they study foodways, especially why people in one region eat differently from those in another. Quantitative data that can be mapped are useful to explore these issues, but, unfortunately, such information is scarce for large-scale projects. We know a lot about American food production through the censuses of agriculture, but little about who eats those products. Much of the existing data for food consumption is the result of proprietary marketing research done for food companies and is, therefore, inaccessible; other surveys involve sample sizes too small to determine regional patterns. More recently, geographers have begun to explore symbolic and other more qualitative issues related to food, place, and culture. They also have turned their attention from national to more local studies such as comparing restaurant menus across a hypothesized regional boundary or the persistence of ethnic dishes in a multicultural community. Useful data sources related to regional and ethnic food consumption include the Internet, telephone books, surveys and interviewing, cookbooks, promotional literature intended for tourists, and popular magazines.
地理学家在研究食物方式时,特别强调地域,尤其是为什么一个地区的人吃得和另一个地区的人不一样。可以绘制地图的数量数据对探索这些问题是有用的,但不幸的是,这种信息对于大型项目来说是稀缺的。通过农业普查,我们对美国的食品生产有了很多了解,但对食用这些产品的人却知之甚少。现有的许多食品消费数据都是为食品公司做的专有营销研究的结果,因此无法获取;其他调查涉及的样本量太小,无法确定区域模式。最近,地理学家开始探索与食物、地点和文化有关的象征性和其他更多的定性问题。他们还将注意力从全国性的研究转向了更多的地方性研究,比如在假设的地区边界上比较餐馆的菜单,或者在多元文化社区中比较民族菜肴的持久性。有关地区和民族食品消费的有用数据来源包括互联网、电话簿、调查和访谈、烹饪书、面向游客的宣传文献和流行杂志。
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引用次数: 3
Purity, Economy, and Social Welfare in the Progressive Era Pure Milk Movement 进步时代的纯净、经济与社会福利纯奶运动
Pub Date : 1999-03-01 DOI: 10.2752/152897999786690762
Daniel R. Block
The early twentieth century, or “The Progressive Era” was characterized by intense concern with food safety. Like today, this did not mean that food safety advocates formed a united front. This study examines conflicts within the Progressive Era pure milk movement between goals of purity, economy, and social welfare. In particular, two situations are examined: the conflict between advocates of pasteurization and certification; and conflicts within the Chicago Milk Commission, which provided pasteurized milk to children and, later, inspected certified milk producers. Pasteurization became much more popular than certification due to its economic superiority. The Chicago Milk Commission was torn apart by factions emphasizing competing goals. It is concluded that while groups representing the goals of purity, economy, and social welfare did not often agree, milk policy since this time has reflected all three of these goals. The conflicts between these groups parallel general issues within Progressive era society.
20世纪初,或“进步时代”的特点是对食品安全的强烈关注。就像今天一样,这并不意味着食品安全倡导者形成了统一战线。本研究探讨了进步时代纯奶运动中纯度、经济和社会福利目标之间的冲突。特别是,两种情况进行了审查:巴氏消毒和认证的倡导者之间的冲突;以及芝加哥牛奶委员会内部的冲突,该委员会向儿童提供巴氏消毒牛奶,后来又检查了经过认证的牛奶生产商。巴氏灭菌法由于其经济优势而比认证法更受欢迎。芝加哥牛奶委员会因强调相互竞争的目标而四分五裂。结论是,虽然代表纯净、经济和社会福利目标的团体并不经常达成一致,但从那时起,牛奶政策反映了这三个目标。这些群体之间的冲突与进步时代社会的普遍问题相似。
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引用次数: 10
Memories Kitchen and My Memories 回忆厨房和我的回忆
Pub Date : 1999-03-01 DOI: 10.2752/152897999786690690
B. Brown
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引用次数: 0
期刊
Journal for the Study of Food and Society
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