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New York City Food Voices at the Smithsonian: The Visual, The Audible, The Edible 纽约食物之声在史密森尼:视觉,听觉,可食用
Pub Date : 2003-09-01 DOI: 10.2752/152897903786769634
Annie Hauck-Lawson
Eachsummer the Smithsonian Folklife Festival takes place in Washington, DC. For close to four decades, this outdoor event highlights "diverse community-based traditions in an understandable and respectful way, to connect the public directly and compellingly with practitioners of cultural traditions ... in a rich cultural dialogue on the National J1all"(Smithsonian Institution, 2000). Here, ongoing presentations in tents and staging areas reflect a region or theme and cultural traditions. Over a two week period in June and July, the 2001 Festival featured New York City. Flanked by the museums of the Smithsonian, aspects of Gotham's dynamic urban life were shown through transportation, music, Broadway theater, fashion, Wall Street, and foodways presentations. New York stories live or on radio and daily stickball, stoopball, skullies and other street games, provided rich cultural context. Any of the festival's million visitors had the opportunity to walk through a mercifully air conditioned city bus, a #7 Flushing line red bird subway car and a Rosenwach water tower, typical of the age old technology that delivers fresh water to urban high rises, including during the Blackout of 2003. I was asked to curate the foodways component. An exciting and large task, my work started long before the festival with issues of curating and how they would come to fruition at the festival. Myriad considerations arose about ways to convey New York life through food. There are more food !Joicesin this town than there are New Yorkers, food voices expressed in a multitude of ways influenced by ethnic, cultural and community affiliations, the economy, the environment, socioeconomics, health and nutrition concerns, food access, production, supply, preparation, sharing, and above all, personal identities (Hauck-Lawson, 1991).
每年夏天,史密森尼民俗节在华盛顿特区举行。近四十年来,这个户外活动以一种可理解和尊重的方式突出了“以社区为基础的各种传统,将公众直接和引人注目地与文化传统的实践者联系起来……在国家J1的丰富文化对话中”(史密森学会,2000)。在这里,在帐篷和舞台上进行的展示反映了一个地区或主题和文化传统。在6月和7月的两周时间里,2001年的音乐节以纽约市为特色。在史密森尼博物馆的两侧,通过交通、音乐、百老汇戏剧、时尚、华尔街和美食展示了高谭市充满活力的城市生活的各个方面。纽约的故事现场直播或广播,以及每日的棍球、垒球、足球和其他街头游戏,提供了丰富的文化背景。参加音乐节的百万游客中,任何一个人都有机会穿过装有空调的城市巴士、7号法拉盛线红鸟地铁车厢和罗森瓦奇水塔,这是一种典型的古老技术,为城市高层建筑提供淡水,包括在2003年停电期间。我被要求策划美食部分。这是一项令人兴奋的大任务,我的工作早在电影节之前就开始了,包括策划问题以及如何在电影节上取得成果。关于如何通过食物来传达纽约生活的想法层出不穷。这个城市的食物乔伊比纽约人还多,食物的声音以多种方式表达,受到种族、文化和社区关系、经济、环境、社会经济学、健康和营养问题、食物获取、生产、供应、准备、分享,以及最重要的个人身份的影响(Hauck-Lawson, 1991)。
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引用次数: 0
To Serve the “Other”: Chinese-American Immigrants in the Restaurant Business 为“他者”服务:餐饮业中的华裔美国移民
Pub Date : 2002-03-01 DOI: 10.2752/152897902786732707
Netta Davis
We don't serve chop suey. We don't serve egg foo yung, that sort of food, at all. To us, that's not very Chinese. These are foods for American people ... And I think it's not fine food, it's not real gourmet. It's not food that you have a literature behind ... It's just food made up because they like it ... Some people still think they are Chinese food.! Most urban Americans older than thirty can recall the recent metamorphosis of the Chinese restaurant business in this country; the pseudo-Cantonese chop SU~S of their youth gave way to Chinese food that was somehow more ... foreign. Many of the new dishes were spicy, made with exotic ingredients and altogether unlike the bland bean sprout-and-chow mein noodle dishes to which they had become accustomed. Changes in ingredients, preparation, configuration and combination have material and metaphoric import as modified Mandarin and Szechuan fare has become the standard Chinese food for most urban Americans.2 This evolution represents more than a regional shift in Chinese emigration to the United States, although it clearly owes much to this demographic change. In fact, while these culinary styles differ considerably, they represent similarly altered foodways, a representation of Chinese and Chinese-American culture which is both "unauthentic" fabrication and the product of an "authentic" cultural adaptation. The accommodation of Chinese cuisine to the American market and palate are the result of a
我们不供应炒杂碎。我们不供应太嫩的鸡蛋之类的食物。对我们来说,这不是很中国化。这些是美国人的食物……我认为这不是美食,不是真正的美食。这不是食物背后的文学……这只是他们喜欢的食物……有些人仍然认为它们是中国菜。大多数30岁以上的美国城市居民都能回忆起这个国家中国餐饮业最近的蜕变;他们年轻时吃的伪粤菜SU~S让位给了更……外国人。许多新菜都很辣,用的是异国情调的食材,完全不同于他们已经习惯的清淡的豆芽炒面。配料、制作、配置和组合的变化具有实质性和隐喻性的意义,因为改良的普通话和四川菜已经成为大多数美国城市居民的标准中国菜。这种演变不仅仅代表了中国移民到美国的地区转变,尽管它显然在很大程度上归功于这种人口结构的变化。事实上,虽然这些烹饪风格差异很大,但它们代表了相似的改变的食物方式,这是中国和中美文化的一种代表,既是“不真实的”捏造,也是“真实的”文化适应的产物。中国烹饪对美国市场和口味的适应是美国历史上的一个重大变革的结果
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引用次数: 11
Fragments for a New Urban Culinary Geography 新城市烹饪地理学的片段
Pub Date : 2002-03-01 DOI: 10.2752/152897902786732662
D. Bell
APPETISER This paper presents a series of fragments exploring particular aspects of the relationship between food and the city. My intention is not to provide a fully articulated thesis on urban culinary geography, but instead to present some random snapshots, some first thoughts. Some are better developed than others, which flash past like fast cars or subliminal blipverts; that's inevitable in such polymorphous sites as postmodern metropolises. Like that familiar publication that guides us round the urban landscape, the A—Z, the entries are arranged alphabetically, and each follows its own logic and trajectory. The disjunctures between them reflect the chaotic heterotopian shape of the contemporary city. Taken together, they represent the beginning of the project of rethinking how food and urban space come together in particular contexts, from the work of the chef to the scavenging of feral animals. Conscious of perpetrating the crime of generalizing ‘the city’, I would state that the cities of which I am tasting here are early twenty-first century ‘world cities’, the postindustrial metropolises, the them ed, mailed, mediatized urban sprawls—and I apologize for the exclusions and omissions that this inevitably means. Others can surely add to my lexicon with their own entries from diverse locations.
这篇文章通过一系列的片段来探索食物和城市之间关系的特定方面。我的意图不是提供一篇关于城市烹饪地理学的完整论文,而是提供一些随机的快照,一些初步的想法。有些人比其他人发展得更好,这些人就像快车或潜意识的闪光点一样一闪而过;在后现代大都市这样多形态的地方,这是不可避免的。就像我们熟悉的引导我们游览城市景观的出版物,A-Z,条目按字母顺序排列,每个条目都遵循自己的逻辑和轨迹。它们之间的脱节反映了当代城市混乱的异托邦形态。总而言之,它们代表了重新思考食物和城市空间如何在特定背景下结合在一起的项目的开始,从厨师的工作到野生动物的拾荒。我意识到自己犯了概括“城市”的罪,我要声明,我在这里品尝的城市是21世纪初的“世界城市”,后工业大都市,它们是电子化的、邮寄的、媒介化的城市扩张——我为这不可避免地意味着的排除和遗漏道歉。其他人当然可以从不同的地方添加他们自己的词条到我的词典中。
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引用次数: 32
“Strong Men and Women are not Products of Improper Food”: Domestic Science and the History of Eating and Identity “强壮的男人和女人不是不当饮食的产物”:家庭科学和饮食和身份的历史
Pub Date : 2002-03-01 DOI: 10.2752/152897902786732635
Charlotte Biltekoff
This paper presents preliminary thinking on food reform movements as a site for the continuous shaping and reshaping of the relationship between eating, Identity, and citizenship in America. It examines the turn of the century domestic science movements and argues that its goals included not only bread baking, but citizen making, and that its effects included not only changes in eating habits, but changes in the significance of eating habits. The author contends that domestic scientists made eating available as a system of self making and in so doing naturalized class differences and normalized a middle class standard for “alimentary subjectivity.”
本文提出了对食品改革运动的初步思考,作为美国饮食,身份和公民身份之间关系的持续塑造和重塑的场所。它考察了世纪之交的国内科学运动,并认为其目标不仅包括面包烘焙,还包括公民制作,其影响不仅包括饮食习惯的改变,还包括饮食习惯的意义的改变。作者认为,国内科学家将饮食作为一种自我创造的系统,并在此过程中自然化了阶级差异,并规范了中产阶级的“饮食主体性”标准。
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引用次数: 13
The Geography of Food 食物的地理
Pub Date : 2002-03-01 DOI: 10.2752/152897902786732716
Derek Shanahan
What a combination: geography and food. Does food have a geography? Of course it does. Everything has a geography. Food is inherently geographic. Food comes from somewhere. Different foods are associated with different groups of people. And such cultural identities are usually place based: steak and kidney pie and the English, for example. Food is exotic, or it is bland, but it is always noteworthy. The great English beer drinker has become the lager lout made famous by so many international soccer tournaments and brought to our television screens on slow news nights. The same dipsomaniacs are also featured as the shirtless, and lobster pink, individuals that have made Spanish resorts what they are today: places inundated with British style pubs and cafeterias selling "traditional" British fried breakfasts, and offering fish and chips in the evening. Where did all of the tapas go? Over a Thanksgiving meal (which for me, being English, held no sense of family tradition, but served only as a dress rehearsal for my imminent Christmas Day meal of Turkey) I was loudly informed from across the table, by a German guest, that the English eat horsemeat. This was no statement of simple fact meant to educate the non-European hosts. This was good old European cultural animosity. The horsemeat insult has made its rounds as far back as I can remember. As a child I always believed that it was the French that ate horsemeat, and I was also indoctrinated with that base and foul, racist lie that south Asian restaurants in Britain used cat, and dog, meat in their curries. This reminds me of the 2002 World Cup soccer tournament held in both Japan and South Korea. The South Koreans wanted to hand out free hot dogs to spectators at some of the soccer matches. The only problem was that the South Koreans actually do eat dog meat. Were the hot dogs really dogs? The European media certainly exercised itself over this revelation. The sense of outrage was palpable. Simply put, food is deeply associated with people and places. Food feeds our cultural stereotypes. It is inherently geographic. It is a social and cultural marker and is never devoid of meaning and significance. Food and food practices denote cultural, class and moral
这是地理和食物的完美结合。食物有地理上的区别吗?当然有。任何事物都有其地理位置。食物本质上是地理上的。食物来自某个地方。不同的食物与不同的人群有关。这种文化认同通常是基于地域的:比如牛排、腰子派和英国人。食物是异国情调的,或者是平淡无奇的,但总是值得注意的。这位伟大的英国啤酒饮用者已成为因众多国际足球锦标赛而闻名的啤酒大亨,并在晚间慢新闻节目中出现在我们的电视屏幕上。同样是这些醉鬼,还有赤膊和龙虾粉,这些人造就了今天的西班牙度假胜地:到处都是英式酒吧和自助餐厅,出售“传统的”英式油炸早餐,晚上还提供炸鱼薯条。所有的小吃都去哪儿了?在一顿感恩节大餐上(对我这个英国人来说,这顿大餐没有家庭传统的感觉,只是为我即将到来的圣诞节火鸡大餐做的一次彩排),一位德国客人从桌子对面大声告诉我,英国人吃马肉。这不是为了教育非欧洲东道主而陈述的简单事实。这是一种古老的欧洲文化仇恨。从我记事起,马肉的侮辱就一直在流传。当我还是个孩子的时候,我一直认为只有法国人才吃马肉,我也被灌输了一个卑鄙、肮脏、种族主义的谎言,即英国的南亚餐馆在咖喱中使用猫和狗的肉。这让我想起了2002年在日本和韩国举行的世界杯足球赛。韩国人想在一些足球比赛中向观众免费分发热狗。唯一的问题是韩国人真的吃狗肉。这些热狗真的是狗吗?欧洲媒体当然对这一消息进行了报道。愤怒之情显而易见。简而言之,食物与人和地方有着深刻的联系。食物助长了我们的文化刻板印象。它本质上是地理上的。它是一个社会和文化的标志,永远不会缺乏意义和重要性。食物和饮食习惯代表着文化、阶级和道德
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引用次数: 15
U.S.-Based Community Food Security: Influences, Practice, Debate 以美国为基础的社区粮食安全:影响、实践、辩论
Pub Date : 2002-03-01 DOI: 10.2752/152897902786732725
Anne C. Bellows, M. Hamm
The practice, policies, and debate associated with U.S.-based community food security (CFS) reflect the historical development of food rights and food security at the International and US national, state, and local community scales. First, CFS in the U.S. has multiple and conflicting definitions that are locally defined within a context of entitlement rights and global trade. Second, the political economy that generates conditions of local food Insecurity is increasingly countered within a framework of international economic and political rights. Third, the capability to claim economic rights may require the cross-sectoral efforts of activists, public officials, entrepreneurs, and academics. In this paper, we provide a short history of international food rights and food security and a background on the diversity of CFS perspectives and practice in the United States. We identify some of the many entry points for CFS activities to portray the need for a system-wide strategy to address food security.
与美国社区粮食安全(CFS)相关的实践、政策和辩论反映了国际和美国国家、州和地方社区尺度上粮食权利和粮食安全的历史发展。首先,在美国,在权利和全球贸易的背景下,当地对食品安全有多种相互冲突的定义。其次,在国际经济和政治权利的框架内,产生当地粮食不安全条件的政治经济日益受到反击。第三,主张经济权利的能力可能需要活动家、政府官员、企业家和学者的跨部门努力。在本文中,我们简要介绍了国际粮食权利和粮食安全的历史,并介绍了粮安委在美国的观点和实践的多样性。我们确定了粮安委活动的一些切入点,以说明需要制定一项解决粮食安全问题的全系统战略。
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引用次数: 51
Something's Kosher Here!: Foodways Among Jewish Brooklyn College Nutrition Students 这里有些东西是洁食!:布鲁克林学院犹太营养学学生的饮食方式
Pub Date : 2002-03-01 DOI: 10.2752/152897902786732626
Annie Hauck-Lawson
Journal for the Stu4J of Food and Society The Jewish calendar is filled with observances framed by dietary prescriptions and proscriptions. For many Jewish New Yorkers who follow kosher dietary laws, traditional food habits pose challenges everydayand in many ways.Food-related conflicts and questions concerning holiday foods, religious fasting, nutrient adequacy, fat consumption, weight control, access to and the expense of kosher food, anorexia, body image and other diet-health factors arise on a ritual, daily and celebratory basis. I became aware of these issues in the course of my work at Brooklyn College where a fair number of Jewish professors and students of nutrition observe kosher dietary practices. Brooklyn College dietetics students graduate with skills to address food and nutrition issues in multicultural New York. Orthodox Jewish students have an intensified food focus influenced by their studies, Judaism's culture, Brooklyn's diversity, and life experiences, among other factors. For them, the studies of dietetics may either seamlessly meld principles of good nutrition with their cultural foodways or it may exacerbate personal dietary struggles. This paper looks at ways that Brooklyn College students who follow kosher dietary law face the challenges of reconciling traditional and new foodways, bridging traditions, generations and cultures, and putting nutrition theory to practice.
犹太日历上充满了由饮食处方和禁令构成的仪式。对于许多遵循犹太饮食法的纽约犹太人来说,传统的饮食习惯每天都在许多方面构成挑战。与食品有关的冲突和问题涉及节日食品、宗教禁食、营养充足、脂肪消耗、体重控制、获得和购买犹太食品、厌食症、身体形象和其他饮食健康因素,这些都是在仪式、日常和庆祝的基础上产生的。我是在布鲁克林学院工作期间意识到这些问题的,那里有相当多的犹太营养学教授和学生遵守犹太洁食的饮食习惯。布鲁克林学院营养学专业的学生毕业时掌握了在多元文化的纽约解决食物和营养问题的技能。正统犹太学生受到学业、犹太教文化、布鲁克林的多样性和生活经历等因素的影响,对食物的关注更加强烈。对他们来说,营养学的研究要么无缝地将良好营养的原则与他们的文化饮食方式融合在一起,要么可能加剧个人的饮食斗争。本文着眼于遵循犹太饮食法的布鲁克林学院学生如何面对调和传统和新食物方式的挑战,弥合传统,世代和文化,并将营养理论付诸实践。
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引用次数: 1
City in a Garden: Producing and Consuming Food in the New Millenium 花园中的城市:新千年的粮食生产与消费
Pub Date : 2002-03-01 DOI: 10.2752/152897902786732644
We argue that food production and consumption is a rich area of study in the undergraduate general education curricula and one whose potential should be more fully explored. Given the array of human activities encompassed by food practices and students' (often unexamined) participation in these processes, this area of study lends itself to two vital components of undergraduate education: (1) developing critical literacy -learning to read and write in order to become conscious of one's experience as constructed within specific power structures; (2) education for sustainability-exploring how we can meet our current needs without compromising the well-being of future generations. We will discuss our work at a community college in Chicago's western suburbs, using food and agriculture in an interdisciplinary program (Biology and English) as a basis for engaging students in critical inquiry about human society, culture and relationships to the environment. The interdisciplinary approach is particularly useful for developing a holistic reality. The class moves from an exploration of personal practice towards food issues on a national and global level, using scientific and literary texts. Providing our students with a basis for critical awareness of their role as food consumers is particularly vital given that they reside in urban sprawl overlaid on the richest farmland in the world. They fully inhabit the "24/7" society, take food abundance and availability for granted and rely heavily on fast food. We hope to lay the foundation for students to develop an intentional, informed praxis in food choices.
我们认为,食品生产和消费是本科通识教育课程中一个丰富的研究领域,其潜力应该得到更充分的挖掘。考虑到食品实践所包含的一系列人类活动和学生(通常未经检查)参与这些过程,这一研究领域适合本科教育的两个重要组成部分:(1)培养批判性素养——学习阅读和写作,以便意识到自己在特定权力结构中建构的经验;(2)可持续发展教育——探索如何在不损害子孙后代福祉的前提下满足我们当前的需求。我们将讨论我们在芝加哥西郊的一所社区大学的工作,在一个跨学科项目(生物学和英语)中使用食品和农业作为吸引学生对人类社会、文化和环境关系进行批判性探究的基础。跨学科方法对于发展整体现实特别有用。本课程从个人实践的探索转向国家和全球层面的食品问题,使用科学和文学文本。考虑到我们的学生居住在世界上最肥沃的农田上的城市蔓延,为他们提供一个批判性意识的基础,作为食品消费者的角色尤为重要。他们完全生活在“24/7”的社会中,把食物的丰富和可用性视为理所当然,严重依赖快餐。我们希望为学生在食物选择上有意识的、知情的实践打下基础。
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引用次数: 0
Chile Peppers and Identity Construction in Pueblo, Colorado 科罗拉多州普韦布洛的辣椒和身份建构
Pub Date : 2002-03-01 DOI: 10.2752/152897902786732653
Terrence W. Haverluk
In this paper I look at how Pueblo, Colorado has incorporated the chile pepper as its official symbol in an attempt to recreate its identity. The chamber of commerce, area farmers, and merchants are working together to create new food consumption patterns based on chiles, linked to seasonal events. Community leaders are also attempting to reestablish Pueblo's historic links to the Southwest in order to capitalize on the Southwestern heritage tourism industry. I analyze Pueblo's use of symbols and the built environment in constructing identity. Symbols and the built environment are important media through which elite ideologies are transmitted.
在本文中,我研究了科罗拉多州的普韦布洛是如何将辣椒作为其官方标志,试图重塑其身份的。商会、当地农民和商人正在共同努力,以辣椒为基础,与季节性事件联系起来,创造新的食品消费模式。社区领导人也试图重建普韦布洛与西南地区的历史联系,以利用西南遗产旅游业。我分析了普韦布洛人在建构身份时对符号和建筑环境的使用。符号和建筑环境是精英意识形态传播的重要媒介。
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引用次数: 8
Protecting and Connecting: Separation, Connection, and the U.S. Dairy Economy 1840–2002 保护和连接:分离、连接和美国乳业经济1840-2002
Pub Date : 2002-03-01 DOI: 10.2752/152897902786732699
Daniel R. Block
Over the last century and a half, urban consumers of fluid milk in the U.S. have often mistrusted the sources of their milk. This paper traces the history of these feelings of risk and the reactions to them, using milk as an entry point into the food safety discussions of the times. There are two conflicting manners in which risk was addressed. In the first, milk production is increasingly separated from the consumer, both geographically and emotionally, through health regulations, increasingly complex production, transportation, and sanitary technology, and industry consolidation. In the second, feelings of mistrust and risk are responded to through policies and marketing strategies that attempt to forge feelings of connection between consumers and particular producers and lessen the emotional distance between city and country. While these two techniques often seemed contradictory, many movements within the dairy industry attempted to balance the two.
在过去的一个半世纪里,美国液态奶的城市消费者经常不信任他们的牛奶来源。本文追溯了这些风险感受的历史和对它们的反应,以牛奶为切入点进入食品安全的时代讨论。处理风险有两种相互冲突的方式。首先,由于卫生法规、日益复杂的生产、运输和卫生技术以及行业整合,牛奶生产在地理上和情感上越来越与消费者分离。第二,通过政策和营销战略来应对不信任和风险的感觉,这些政策和营销战略试图在消费者和特定生产者之间建立联系的感觉,并减少城乡之间的情感距离。虽然这两种技术经常看起来是矛盾的,但乳制品行业的许多运动试图平衡两者。
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引用次数: 6
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Journal for the Study of Food and Society
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