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Is it Border Cuisine or Merely a Case of NAFTA Indigestion? 是边境美食还是北美自由贸易协定消化不良?
Pub Date : 2003-09-01 DOI: 10.2752/152897903786769607
Richard W. Ryan
This paper will examine the emergence of border cuisine along the U.S.-Mexican international boundary in the vicinity of Calexico, California and Mexicali, Mexico. It is not an exaggeration to say that the border is an unknown region for most Americans. While borders certainly have their share of volatility, particularly with illegal immigration activities, the border crossing and region described in this paper are generally stable, rooted strongly in commercial and family foundations. Environmental problems, traffic congestion, and the persistent cat and mouse game of illegal crossings and Border Patrol arrests are commonplace. Yet, the overall motif is one of daily life moving along at a synchronized pace. Trucks carrying manufactured goods and RVs (recreational vehicles) driven by Canadians or Californians head into Mexicali. In the early morning, day laborers drive or walk into Calexico from the Mexican side hoping to be employed in labor intensive field work by Imperial Valley growers. Later they are followed by "soccer moms" driving their children to private Catholic schools in Calexico and EI Centro in Ford Explorers. "Fundamentally, border culture or the border wqy if life, is rooted in the influences that the border exerts on fronterizos .... (B)orderlanders are surrounded by internationality; they go from one nation to the other frequently on shopping trips, on business, or for leisure. Transnational interaction is normal and routine." (Martinez, 1997:94) Where people go, they bring along their food preferences. What makes the border interesting from a culinary perspective is that the "back-andforth" is a way of life, and that fronterizos, the people who live on either side of the border, develop a juxtaposition of food that is not usually associated vith one country's food preferences or the other. The so-called purists in either country may not claim or recognize meals found in the border region, and this is exactly what makes border food so interesting and attractive to research. At the same time, there is a core menu that is adhered to in all restaurants serving Mexican food in the Mexicali-Calexico border area.
本文将研究沿Calexico,加利福尼亚和墨西卡利,墨西哥附近的美国-墨西哥国际边界边境美食的出现。毫不夸张地说,边境对大多数美国人来说是一个陌生的地区。虽然边界肯定有其不稳定的部分,特别是非法移民活动,但本文所描述的过境点和地区总体上是稳定的,牢固地植根于商业和家庭基础。环境问题、交通拥堵、持续不断的猫捉老鼠游戏——非法越境和边境巡逻队的逮捕——是司空见惯的事情。然而,整体主题是日常生活以同步的速度向前发展。加拿大人或加利福尼亚人驾驶的卡车载着制成品和rv(休闲车)进入墨西卡利。清晨,日工开车或步行从墨西哥一侧进入Calexico,希望受雇于帝王谷种植者从事劳动密集型的田间工作。之后,紧随其后的是“足球妈妈”,她们开车送孩子去卡莱西科的私立天主教学校,或开着福特探险者车去EI Centro上学。“从根本上说,边境文化或边境生活方式,植根于边境对拓荒者的影响....(B)秩序井然者被国际性所包围;他们经常从一个国家到另一个国家去购物、出差或休闲。跨国互动是正常和常规的。”(马丁内斯,1997:94)人们走到哪里,都会带着他们的食物偏好。从烹饪的角度来看,边境之所以有趣,是因为“来回”是一种生活方式,而生活在边境两侧的fronterizos,即生活在边境两侧的人,开发出一种与一个国家或另一个国家的食物偏好无关的并列食物。两国所谓的纯粹主义者可能不会声称或承认在边境地区发现的食物,这正是边境食物如此有趣和吸引研究的原因。与此同时,在墨西卡利-卡莱西科边境地区,所有提供墨西哥食品的餐馆都坚持一份核心菜单。
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引用次数: 2
Savoring the Past: Collective Amnesica, Consumer Culture and Gastronomic Memory in Vazquez Montalban's 品味过去:巴斯克斯·蒙塔尔班的集体遗忘、消费文化和美食记忆
Pub Date : 2003-09-01 DOI: 10.2752/152897903786769599
W. Nichols
The Spanish author Manuel Vazquez Montalbin adopts and adapts the style and essence of noir, from fUmas well as novel, to project a post-Franco Spain overcome with crime, corruption and uncertainty. Vazquez Montalban's writing ranges from avant-garde poetry to experimental novels to philosophical essays and investigative journalism, yet his detective series fuses hard-boiled realism with postmodern explorations of truth, politics and writing. His detective, Pepe Carvalho, a Galician who lives in Barcelona (a.k.a. "charnego"), possesses a complex identity that includes a contradictory past as an Communist protestor during the 1950s in Francoist Spain, then as a CIA assassin in the United States yet who now prefers a safe, cynical distance from the trappings of any ideology that purports to project "truth." Vazquez Montalban injects the "noir" realism of the Carvalho series with irony, iconoclasm, intertextuality and self-reflection in a postmodern investigation that questions cultural codes, defies genre categorization and confuses the distinction between "High" and "Popular" art.! Carvalho's distrust and rejection of culture is best articulated in the detective's two most striking idiosyncrasies: his 'penchant' for burning books and his passion for gourmet cooking.2
西班牙作家曼努埃尔·巴斯克斯·蒙塔尔宾采用并改编了黑色小说的风格和精髓,描绘了一个充满犯罪、腐败和不确定性的后佛朗哥时代的西班牙。蒙塔尔班的作品范围从前卫诗歌到实验小说,从哲学散文到调查性新闻,但他的侦探系列将冷酷的现实主义与对真理、政治和写作的后现代探索融合在一起。他的侦探佩佩·卡瓦略(Pepe Carvalho)是住在巴塞罗那的加利西亚人。“charnego”),拥有一个复杂的身份,其中包括一个矛盾的过去,他在20世纪50年代在佛朗哥统治下的西班牙担任共产主义抗议者,然后在美国担任中央情报局刺客,但现在他更喜欢与任何声称投射“真理”的意识形态的伪装保持安全、愤世嫉俗的距离。蒙塔尔班为卡瓦略系列的“黑色”现实主义注入了反讽、反传统、互文性和自我反思,进行了后现代主义的调查,质疑文化规范,蔑视流派分类,混淆了“高级”和“流行”艺术之间的区别。卡瓦略对文化的不信任和排斥在这位侦探的两个最显著的特质中得到了最好的体现:他对焚烧书籍的“嗜好”和他对美食烹饪的热情
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引用次数: 1
Visual Sociology and Food 视觉社会学与食物
Pub Date : 2003-09-01 DOI: 10.2752/152897903786769625
G. Gillespie
(2003). Visual Sociology and Food. Journal for the Study of Food and Society: Vol. 6, No. 2, pp. 7-8.
(2003)。视觉社会学与食物。食品与社会研究杂志:第6卷,第2期,第7-8页。
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引用次数: 3
All Farms had Gardens in the 20th Century, or Did They? 20世纪所有的农场都有花园吗?
Pub Date : 2003-09-01 DOI: 10.2752/152897903786769643
N. Duran
Food on the farm is often thought to be better and fresher than in cities because all farmers had gardens. This could be true for at least part of the year if all farmers did have gardens and city people did not. Although there is little specific research on farm gardens in the United States, it is clear from the literature that not all farms had gardens in the early 20th century. Better off farmers were more likely to have a garden, and to grow more types of vegetables. The poorest farmers, such as sharecroppers, often had no garden. Some crops, such as corn, were grown as a field crop and also used for the family. Other factors such as location and weather directly influenced the production potential of the garden. Gardens were also seasonal so storage preparation time and facilities were important. The data for this conclusion comes mostly from dietary studies and family-living (or cost-of-living) studies carried out at various Experiment Stations. The percentage of farmers who had gardens clearly varied with economic level, area of the country, and personal interest.
农场里的食物通常被认为比城市里的更好更新鲜,因为所有的农民都有花园。如果所有的农民都有花园,而城市居民没有,那么至少在一年中的部分时间里,这可能是真的。虽然对美国农场花园的具体研究很少,但从文献中可以清楚地看出,在20世纪初,并不是所有的农场都有花园。富裕的农民更有可能拥有菜园,种植更多种类的蔬菜。最贫穷的农民,如佃农,往往没有花园。一些作物,如玉米,是作为农田作物种植的,也用于家庭。其他因素,如位置和天气直接影响了花园的生产潜力。花园也是季节性的,所以储存准备时间和设施很重要。这一结论的数据主要来自各实验站进行的饮食研究和家庭生活(或生活费用)研究。拥有花园的农民比例明显随经济水平、国家面积和个人兴趣而变化。
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引用次数: 1
Food and Culture in Appalachian Kentucky: An Ethnography 肯塔基州阿巴拉契亚地区的饮食与文化:民族志
Pub Date : 2003-09-01 DOI: 10.2752/152897903786769661
Christie Smith
Using interviews with 21 Appalachian Kentucky residents and out-migrants, this paper examines the ways in which food plays a central role in constructing, maintaining, and transforming a sense of regional identity. In contrast to much work on Appalachia, the participants in this study suggest that, while their regionality is important, they participate in larger cultural productions and find ways to incorporate both the familiar ways and mass food culture into understandings of what it means to be Appalachian.
本文通过对21位肯塔基州阿巴拉契亚地区居民和外来移民的访谈,探讨了食物在构建、维持和转变地区认同感方面发挥核心作用的方式。与许多关于阿巴拉契亚的研究相反,本研究的参与者认为,虽然他们的地域性很重要,但他们参与了更大的文化生产,并找到了将熟悉的方式和大众饮食文化结合起来的方法,以理解阿巴拉契亚人的意义。
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引用次数: 3
Hot Chocolate: The Social Question in the Chocolate Exhibits at the 1900 Paris Universal Exposition 热巧克力:1900年巴黎世界博览会巧克力展览中的社会问题
Pub Date : 2003-09-01 DOI: 10.2752/152897903786769652
Nancy Lee. Turpin
Chocolate exhibits in the 1900 Paris Universal Exposition told tourists the legend of chocolate's long journey from French queen to French worker and then gave them a taste of the French chocolate trade.! More than fifty million visitors eagerly purchased their blue tickets to visit the Paris world's fair in 1900. Those who saw and tasted the story of French chocolate could learn that achieving social peace between labor and capital might be as easy and pleasant as drinking a cup of hot chocolate. The state used its Universal Exposition to demonstrate that only the Republic could unite the diverse French nation to achieve a program of socialand economic progress. This article is the story of how French chocolate was pressed into the service of the Third Republic at the 1900 Paris Universal Exposition. French world's fairs were always affairs of state, whether that state was directed by revolutionary committee, king, emperor or elected republican officials. At the turn of the twentieth century the seasoned Third Republic government was sorting out the aftermath of the Dreyfus Affair, the latest national crisis. During that same two-year period the 1900 Paris world's fair was built and ran. Both of those complex events took place during the twoyear crisis of an unprecedented number of labor strikes all over France.
1900年巴黎世界博览会上的巧克力展品向游客讲述了巧克力从法国女王到法国工人的漫长旅程的传奇,然后让他们品尝了法国巧克力贸易。1900年,5000多万游客热切地购买了参观巴黎世界博览会的蓝票。那些看到和品尝过法国巧克力故事的人可以了解到,在劳资之间实现社会和平可能就像喝一杯热巧克力一样容易和愉快。国家利用世界博览会来证明,只有共和国才能团结多元的法国民族,实现社会和经济进步的计划。这篇文章讲述了法国巧克力是如何在1900年巴黎世界博览会上为第三共和国服务的。法国的世界博览会一直是国家事务,无论这个国家是由革命委员会、国王、皇帝还是民选的共和官员领导的。在二十世纪之交,经验丰富的第三共和国政府正在整理德雷福斯事件的后果,这是最新的国家危机。在同样的两年时间里,1900年巴黎世界博览会建成并运行。这两件复杂的事件都发生在两年的危机期间,当时法国各地爆发了数量空前的罢工。
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引用次数: 1
Local Democracy: Sustaining Healthy Community through Ethical, Sustainable Food Systems 地方民主:通过道德、可持续的粮食系统维持健康的社区
Pub Date : 2003-09-01 DOI: 10.2752/152897903786769580
Actor-networks and political economy are not dualistic opposites: A critical commentary on the new agrifood studies Alan RJI{!y-Michigan S tate University Whether derived from science or consumption studies, the sociology of agrifood systems is increasingly emphasizing material and consumer agency. The majority of this work represents itself as a counter and corrective to a purported hegemonic structuralism within the sociology or political economy of agriculture. However, political economy is a wideranging field, much of it relational in a manner that presupposes an intimate connection between consumption and production (whether in the form of productive consumption or consumption as reproduction). Unfortunately, rather than explore the production of new and historical forms of consumer agencies (or material actancy) the majority of the new scholarship brackets traditionally political economic question as to 1) the material and ideological conditions that constrain prior (production-oriented) forms of politics and enable new (consumption-oriented) ones, and 2) the uneven spatial, social and ecological distribution of these new agencies. In the context of organic, anti-BST, or anti-G~,JO consumer purchasing patterns and advocacy movements neither 1) the relations that tie retail oligopolies and consumer politics together nor 2) those relations that connect "food deserts" in rural areas and inner city areas to the market conditions that make retailers responsive to the desires and politics of high end fresh fruit, vegetable and meat consumers are addressed. Rather than the seamless actor-networks of Latour, this paper stresses the differential agencies and coalitions of Haraway's situated knowledges as a means of integrating political economic and post -structural theories of agrifood systems.
行动者网络和政治经济学并非二元对立:对新农业食品研究的批判性评论无论是来自科学还是消费研究,农业食品系统的社会学越来越强调物质和消费者代理。这项工作的大部分表现为对农业社会学或政治经济学中所谓的霸权结构主义的反击和纠正。然而,政治经济学是一个不断扩大的领域,它的大部分都是以消费和生产之间的密切联系为前提的(无论是以生产消费的形式还是作为再生产的消费的形式)。不幸的是,大多数新学者并没有探索新的和历史形式的消费代理(或物质代理)的产生,而是把传统的政治经济问题放在1)限制先前的(生产导向的)政治形式并使新的(消费导向的)政治形式成为可能的物质和意识形态条件,以及2)这些新代理的不平衡的空间、社会和生态分布。在有机、反bst或反g ~、JO消费者购买模式和倡导运动的背景下,既没有解决1)将零售寡头垄断和消费者政治联系在一起的关系,也没有解决2)将农村地区和内城地区的“食物沙漠”与市场条件(使零售商对高端新鲜水果、蔬菜和肉类消费者的欲望和政治做出反应)联系起来的关系。与拉图尔无缝的行动者网络不同,本文强调哈拉威所处的知识的不同代理和联盟,作为整合农业食品系统的政治经济和后结构理论的手段。
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引用次数: 0
Food as Pleasure: Other Directedness in Food Ads 食物作为愉悦:食品广告的其他方向性
Pub Date : 2003-09-01 DOI: 10.2752/152897903786769689
D. Sykes
Through the use of content analysis, food ads are examined to determine if characteristics of other-direction (Riesman 1950) can be detected. Previous studies offer mixed conclusions in their attempt to pinpoint a rising other-directed trend. This study offers two analyses. Analysis one examines food ads from the 1920s through the 1990s. Analysis two compares differences in a variety of magazines that were created for different audiences and at different time periods. While quantitative examination yields limited results, a qualitative examination provides greater evidence of change. It is concluded that food ads are becoming increasingly symbolic of pleasure. Magazines that market to children and/or were established in later time periods are less subtle in their approach to marketing food as pleasure than those established in earlier, inner-directed periods.
通过使用内容分析,检查食品广告,以确定是否可以检测到其他方向的特征(Riesman 1950)。之前的研究在试图确定“他者导向”的上升趋势时,得出了不同的结论。这项研究提供了两种分析。分析一考察了从20世纪20年代到90年代的食品广告。分析二比较了不同时期、不同受众的各类杂志的差异。虽然定量检查产生有限的结果,但定性检查提供了更多的变化证据。结论是,食品广告越来越成为快乐的象征。那些面向儿童和/或创立于较晚时期的杂志,在将食物作为一种乐趣进行营销的方法上,比那些创立于较早时期的杂志更不微妙。
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引用次数: 0
De-Centering the Text: Exploring the Potential for Visual Methods in the Sociology of Food 文本去中心化:探索食物社会学中视觉方法的潜力
Pub Date : 2003-09-01 DOI: 10.2752/152897903786769670
E. Power
In our culture, the image has become more powerful than the word, and perhaps more than ever, both social agents and social researchers “know more than we can say” in words. Yet sociological knowledge production and representation remain firmly rooted in text. In this paper, I argue that visual methods, such as film, photography and video, can expand knowledge production in the study of food and society, and represent that knowledge more richly and forcefully. In their capacities to evoke the sensual, non-rational, and material aspects of life, visual methods are well suited to the study of a subject such as food, which encompasses social processes from the embodied and tacit experiences of preparing and consuming food, to complex global configurations of power. I begin with the limitations of logo-centric sociology. Concentrating on photography, I move to a brief history of this method in sociology and discuss epistemological issues related to the contemporary postfoundationalist practice of visual sociology. Finally, I turn to a discussion of three main types of visual research activities: producing visual images; collaborating with research participants to produce visual images; and examining pre-existing images.
在我们的文化中,形象已经变得比文字更有力量,也许比以往任何时候都更强大,社会代理人和社会研究者都“知道的比我们能说的多”。然而,社会学知识的生产和表现仍然牢牢扎根于文本。在本文中,我认为视觉方法,如电影,摄影和视频,可以扩大知识生产在食物和社会的研究,并代表知识更丰富和有力。视觉方法能够唤起生活的感性、非理性和物质方面,因此非常适合研究食物等主题,因为它包含了从准备和消费食物的具体和隐性经验到复杂的全球权力配置的社会过程。我从标志中心社会学的局限性开始。专注于摄影,我将简要介绍这种方法在社会学中的历史,并讨论与当代后基础主义视觉社会学实践相关的认识论问题。最后,我转而讨论三种主要类型的视觉研究活动:制作视觉图像;与研究参与者合作制作视觉图像;检查预先存在的图像。
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引用次数: 63
Grocery Store Acess Patterns in Rural Food Deserts 农村食品荒漠的杂货店准入模式
Pub Date : 2003-09-01 DOI: 10.2752/152897903786769616
Ella Annette Bitto, L. Morton, Mary Jan Oakland, Mary Sand
Many small rural towns have lost local grocery stores to larger, more centralized towns. As a result they become food deserts, places with no or few proximate food stores. This study examines differences among rural food desert residents and their access to grocery store patterns. We find that households in two rural lowa counties regularly shop two grocery stores weekly and travel about 18 minutes each way. While most residents of these counties use their own vehicle to obtain food, older persons and those with limited incomes are more likely to be dependent on family, friends, neighbors and others. Sixteen percent of open country compared to 11 percent of rural town residents regularly shop for food out-of-county at supercenters, discount and wholesale food stores. An increasingly rural aging population suggests lower mobility, isolation, and future access to food store concerns as retail food consolidation continues. Policy makers need to examine rural transportation systems and develop an infra-structure that links elderly and low-income individuals to retail food sources on a regular basis.
许多乡村小镇失去了当地的杂货店,取而代之的是更大、更集中的城镇。因此,它们变成了食物沙漠,没有或很少有食物储存的地方。这项研究考察了农村食物沙漠居民之间的差异以及他们对杂货店模式的获取。我们发现爱荷华州两个农村县的家庭每周定期去两家杂货店购物,单程大约需要18分钟。虽然这些县的大多数居民使用自己的车辆获取食物,但老年人和收入有限的人更有可能依赖家人、朋友、邻居和其他人。16%的农村居民经常在超市、折扣和批发食品商店购买国外食品,而11%的农村城镇居民经常在超市、折扣和批发食品商店购买国外食品。随着零售食品整合的继续,越来越多的农村老龄化人口表明流动性较低、孤立和未来获得食品商店的担忧。政策制定者需要审查农村运输系统,并发展基础设施,将老年人和低收入个人与零售食品来源定期联系起来。
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引用次数: 48
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Journal for the Study of Food and Society
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