Pub Date : 2022-07-28DOI: 10.1080/14759756.2022.2090080
S. Chopra, Nidhi Goyal, Geeta Harish
Abstract Puppetry is a performance where it involves manipulation of puppets and has been a part of our Indian culture since ages. There are different types of puppets prevalent in India. Kathputli is one the most famous type of string puppet of Rajasthan, where kath means wood and pulti means doll. Bhat community is the originator of this craft and they claim that their ancestors had performed for royal families and received great honor from the rulers of Rajasthan, Madhya Pradesh, and Punjab. Today, puppetry is not only seen as a medium of entertainment but also as a strong medium of education. Kathputli is an expression of culture, costumes, and lifestyle of the place where it is made, but due to lack of patronage many traditional puppeteers are forced to abandon this craft. This study is an attempt to trace the origin and history of the string puppets of Rajasthan. The Bhat community was profiled to understand traditional ways of making of the string puppets and the changes seen in terms of materials used in making of puppets, tools, staging techniques, scripts, etc. Future prospect of puppetry was also discussed from inputs received from the promoters of puppetry and the audience.
{"title":"Traditional and Contemporary Facets of String Puppets of Rajasthan","authors":"S. Chopra, Nidhi Goyal, Geeta Harish","doi":"10.1080/14759756.2022.2090080","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/14759756.2022.2090080","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Puppetry is a performance where it involves manipulation of puppets and has been a part of our Indian culture since ages. There are different types of puppets prevalent in India. Kathputli is one the most famous type of string puppet of Rajasthan, where kath means wood and pulti means doll. Bhat community is the originator of this craft and they claim that their ancestors had performed for royal families and received great honor from the rulers of Rajasthan, Madhya Pradesh, and Punjab. Today, puppetry is not only seen as a medium of entertainment but also as a strong medium of education. Kathputli is an expression of culture, costumes, and lifestyle of the place where it is made, but due to lack of patronage many traditional puppeteers are forced to abandon this craft. This study is an attempt to trace the origin and history of the string puppets of Rajasthan. The Bhat community was profiled to understand traditional ways of making of the string puppets and the changes seen in terms of materials used in making of puppets, tools, staging techniques, scripts, etc. Future prospect of puppetry was also discussed from inputs received from the promoters of puppetry and the audience.","PeriodicalId":32765,"journal":{"name":"Textile Leather Review","volume":"38 1","pages":"329 - 339"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-07-28","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"73256394","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-07-25DOI: 10.1080/14759756.2022.2093010
Sanjeevani Ayachit
Abstract The study of historic costumes provides deep insights on various multicultural, geographical, locational, climatic, religious, technological, and socio-economic factors that has influenced the dressing choices of particular people. While there is substantial research on the costumes of the Rajputs and Mughal rulers of India, documentation of the clothing of the various rulers of the western Indian state of Maharashtra has been limited. The objective of this study was to provide insights into the prevalent textiles used to make the costumes of the Maratha Peshwas through a hundred-year-old dominance of the eighteenth and nineteenth century. The research aimed to also identify intercultural influence of other prevailing dynasties on the costume of the Peshwas. Using a socio-cultural history-based qualitative research approach with a combination of visual and textual modes of information collection, Peshwa costumes have been studied through in-depth interviews, artifact study, study of folk literature and historical records along with a firm grounding of historical context to corroborate the findings. This paper highlights the fabrics that were used to make the costumes and accessories of the Peshwa men and women. Influences of Rajput Mughal and Nizam cultures on Peshwa costumes has also been studied.
{"title":"Aambkapad, Chira, Khun, and more – Intercultural Influences on Fabrics of the Peshwas of Pune, India","authors":"Sanjeevani Ayachit","doi":"10.1080/14759756.2022.2093010","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/14759756.2022.2093010","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract The study of historic costumes provides deep insights on various multicultural, geographical, locational, climatic, religious, technological, and socio-economic factors that has influenced the dressing choices of particular people. While there is substantial research on the costumes of the Rajputs and Mughal rulers of India, documentation of the clothing of the various rulers of the western Indian state of Maharashtra has been limited. The objective of this study was to provide insights into the prevalent textiles used to make the costumes of the Maratha Peshwas through a hundred-year-old dominance of the eighteenth and nineteenth century. The research aimed to also identify intercultural influence of other prevailing dynasties on the costume of the Peshwas. Using a socio-cultural history-based qualitative research approach with a combination of visual and textual modes of information collection, Peshwa costumes have been studied through in-depth interviews, artifact study, study of folk literature and historical records along with a firm grounding of historical context to corroborate the findings. This paper highlights the fabrics that were used to make the costumes and accessories of the Peshwa men and women. Influences of Rajput Mughal and Nizam cultures on Peshwa costumes has also been studied.","PeriodicalId":32765,"journal":{"name":"Textile Leather Review","volume":"12 1","pages":"340 - 351"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-07-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"89914636","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-06-28DOI: 10.1080/14759756.2022.2085987
A. McGovern
{"title":"Risky, Subversive, and Deviant? A Criminological Analysis of Guerrilla Knitting","authors":"A. McGovern","doi":"10.1080/14759756.2022.2085987","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/14759756.2022.2085987","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":32765,"journal":{"name":"Textile Leather Review","volume":"24 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-06-28","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"73678833","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-06-28DOI: 10.1080/14759756.2022.2084317
Hannah Rumball
Abstract The nineteenth century tailored overcoat, The Ladies’ Ulster, is an important garment for dress and textile historians because it reframes our understanding of period women’s attire through its untrimmed, waterproof and functional design. Despite this only a little research has been conducted on the garment. This article focuses on the evolution of the overcoat in the first two decades of its adoption. It examines the critical reception of the Ladies Ulster in the 1870 s when it was described initially as “eccentric-looking” (The Sportsman, November 15, 1873), and considers its design evolution to become considered by the end of the 1880 s a “a beau ideal lady’s coat” (The Queen, June 18, 1887).
{"title":"The Ladies Ulster in the 1870s and 1880s: From “Eccentric-Looking” to “Beau Ideal”","authors":"Hannah Rumball","doi":"10.1080/14759756.2022.2084317","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/14759756.2022.2084317","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract The nineteenth century tailored overcoat, The Ladies’ Ulster, is an important garment for dress and textile historians because it reframes our understanding of period women’s attire through its untrimmed, waterproof and functional design. Despite this only a little research has been conducted on the garment. This article focuses on the evolution of the overcoat in the first two decades of its adoption. It examines the critical reception of the Ladies Ulster in the 1870 s when it was described initially as “eccentric-looking” (The Sportsman, November 15, 1873), and considers its design evolution to become considered by the end of the 1880 s a “a beau ideal lady’s coat” (The Queen, June 18, 1887).","PeriodicalId":32765,"journal":{"name":"Textile Leather Review","volume":"28 1","pages":"300 - 328"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-06-28","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"73405696","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-06-28DOI: 10.1080/14759756.2022.2082123
Oum Kumari, P. Mishra
{"title":"Life after Death: A Saree as Memoir","authors":"Oum Kumari, P. Mishra","doi":"10.1080/14759756.2022.2082123","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/14759756.2022.2082123","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":32765,"journal":{"name":"Textile Leather Review","volume":"2 1","pages":"297 - 299"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-06-28","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"88155177","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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