Pub Date : 2023-03-15DOI: 10.1080/14759756.2023.2175946
Ansuman Das, Tattwamasi Paltasingh
{"title":"Weaving as a Livelihood Option: A Study of the Bhulia Weaver Community in Odisha, India","authors":"Ansuman Das, Tattwamasi Paltasingh","doi":"10.1080/14759756.2023.2175946","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/14759756.2023.2175946","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":32765,"journal":{"name":"Textile Leather Review","volume":"104 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-03-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"79420302","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-03-15DOI: 10.1080/14759756.2023.2182042
L. Gardner
Abstract Although machine knitted garments are ubiquitous today, they have only been manufactured for little over a century. The growing popularity of knitted outerwear and the demand for readymade clothing during the interwar period gave hosiery manufacturers an opportunity to diversify their product range using machinery and processes previously only used for the production of underwear. This case study uses the surviving design books of a single company, Peter Scott and Co. Ltd, based in the Scottish Borders to explore a little-known period of creative experimentation. The company exploited two very different types of production during the years between the wars. A comparison of these, and the garment designs they yielded, offers an opportunity to interrogate the relationships between design, product, and process. An examination of the relationship between product and machinery reveals influence and opportunity as well as negotiation and restriction. This case study not only assesses the influence of machinery on garment styling but also serves to place design into the context of business and industry, which can reveal how business dilemmas, choices and challenges impacted its use.
{"title":"From Underwear to Outerwear: The Influence of Machinery on Creativity and Garment Styling in the Scottish Knitwear Industry, 1920s–1970s","authors":"L. Gardner","doi":"10.1080/14759756.2023.2182042","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/14759756.2023.2182042","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Although machine knitted garments are ubiquitous today, they have only been manufactured for little over a century. The growing popularity of knitted outerwear and the demand for readymade clothing during the interwar period gave hosiery manufacturers an opportunity to diversify their product range using machinery and processes previously only used for the production of underwear. This case study uses the surviving design books of a single company, Peter Scott and Co. Ltd, based in the Scottish Borders to explore a little-known period of creative experimentation. The company exploited two very different types of production during the years between the wars. A comparison of these, and the garment designs they yielded, offers an opportunity to interrogate the relationships between design, product, and process. An examination of the relationship between product and machinery reveals influence and opportunity as well as negotiation and restriction. This case study not only assesses the influence of machinery on garment styling but also serves to place design into the context of business and industry, which can reveal how business dilemmas, choices and challenges impacted its use.","PeriodicalId":32765,"journal":{"name":"Textile Leather Review","volume":"70 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-03-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"90971546","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-03-09DOI: 10.1080/14759756.2023.2181548
Md. Ataul Gani Osmani, Md Fahad Al Ashik
{"title":"Consumption Pattern and the Factors of the Handloom Weavers in Charghat Upazila of Rajshahi District in Bangladesh","authors":"Md. Ataul Gani Osmani, Md Fahad Al Ashik","doi":"10.1080/14759756.2023.2181548","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/14759756.2023.2181548","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":32765,"journal":{"name":"Textile Leather Review","volume":"2014 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-03-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"86675584","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-03-09DOI: 10.1080/14759756.2023.2178050
R. Acquaye, Akosua Mawuse Amankwah, R. Seidu
{"title":"The “Authenticity Discourse” in Contemporary Application of West African Textiles","authors":"R. Acquaye, Akosua Mawuse Amankwah, R. Seidu","doi":"10.1080/14759756.2023.2178050","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/14759756.2023.2178050","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":32765,"journal":{"name":"Textile Leather Review","volume":"3 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-03-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"73137294","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-03-07DOI: 10.1080/14759756.2023.2171831
Janis Jefferies
{"title":"Razzle, Dazzle and the Black Fantastic","authors":"Janis Jefferies","doi":"10.1080/14759756.2023.2171831","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/14759756.2023.2171831","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":32765,"journal":{"name":"Textile Leather Review","volume":"3 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-03-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"88324142","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-03-06DOI: 10.1080/14759756.2022.2141027
Josef Nothmann
Abstract Studies of Jewish “Americanization” have largely focused on earlier periods of immigration and emphasized the democratic nature of dress in the United States. In contrast, this study analyzes the decades at mid-century when Jews began visibly to enter the American mainstream and argues for an increased appreciation of male sartorial distinction as cultural capital in Jewish social mobility and self-assertion within a stratified American social system. In the decades after the Second World War, a commercialized form of Ivy League style became one of the leading modes of middle class American masculine self-fashioning. Many Jewish students, professors, and young professionals found in Ivy style a statement suited to their aspirations of educational, social, and economic advancement in the face of traditional antisemitic discrimination. The Jewish history of Ivy style reveals the ambiguities and ironies of this process of class-specific Americanization, given the disproportionate role of Jewish tailors and businessmen in the creation and curation of an American style so closely linked to power. Drawing on memoirs, contemporary images, and vintage clothing, this article examines the connection between Ivy style as sartorial habitus and Jewish social and cultural integration in and through higher education.
{"title":"Styling the “Ivy” Man: Jewish Men as Creators and Consumers of an American Style, 1940–1965","authors":"Josef Nothmann","doi":"10.1080/14759756.2022.2141027","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/14759756.2022.2141027","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Studies of Jewish “Americanization” have largely focused on earlier periods of immigration and emphasized the democratic nature of dress in the United States. In contrast, this study analyzes the decades at mid-century when Jews began visibly to enter the American mainstream and argues for an increased appreciation of male sartorial distinction as cultural capital in Jewish social mobility and self-assertion within a stratified American social system. In the decades after the Second World War, a commercialized form of Ivy League style became one of the leading modes of middle class American masculine self-fashioning. Many Jewish students, professors, and young professionals found in Ivy style a statement suited to their aspirations of educational, social, and economic advancement in the face of traditional antisemitic discrimination. The Jewish history of Ivy style reveals the ambiguities and ironies of this process of class-specific Americanization, given the disproportionate role of Jewish tailors and businessmen in the creation and curation of an American style so closely linked to power. Drawing on memoirs, contemporary images, and vintage clothing, this article examines the connection between Ivy style as sartorial habitus and Jewish social and cultural integration in and through higher education.","PeriodicalId":32765,"journal":{"name":"Textile Leather Review","volume":"24 1","pages":"746 - 771"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-03-06","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"87239042","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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