Pub Date : 2022-10-11DOI: 10.1080/14759756.2022.2122195
Andrea Thoma
Abstract This article explores the fold and textile imagination within art by using as main case study the author’s project Imaginary Landscapes. This work consists of a series of photographs taken during the first COVID-19 lockdown in the UK in 2020 and was motivated by a longing for spaces and places at a time of confinement. It provided an opportunity to work with “material to hand”, pointing to Martin Heidegger and Barbara Bolt’s discussion of his theory regarding “handling.” The cloth as arranged or folded allows for light to enhance form whilst suggesting landscapes such as shorelines, mountains, forests, deserts or volcanoes. The discussion refers to Gilles Deleuze’s reading of Leibniz, Christine Buci-Gluckmann’s observations on the Baroque, and to various theoretical and artistic positions concerning the fold, drapery, and textile imagination within different visual contexts, including Giuliana Bruno’s observations on the fold in relation to the screen. Imaginary Landscapes is explored with particular attention to contemporary artists Christo and Jeanne Claude, Christian Boltanski and Angela de la Cruz. The argument concludes that the fold as visual and conceptual process allows us to engage in spatio-temporal relations where the appreciation of materiality through handling/folding informs ideas of movement within and across media.
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Pub Date : 2022-10-02DOI: 10.1080/14759756.2021.1973295
María José Murillo
Abstract This paper intends to be shared as a personal testimony and hopes to be taken by the reader as a lived experience rather than mere academic research. Thus, although the text is based on historical evidence, the notion of “history” should not be understood as a linear succession of events but more as cyclical stories and times that are constantly Weaving themselves together into a present. Weaving, as a structuring activity generated by body-mind, space-time, human-nature relationships, has precisely structured natural, social, political, and cultural ecosystems of human life since the beginning of time. Weaving is, therefore, one of the primary expressive means that puts culture into practice. This essay aims to revive the paradoxical path—shaped by stories and processes of migration, colonization, and decolonization—that led to my reunion with Andean Weaving outside my country. Finding alive the voices that gave birth to the material language of my Indigenous ancestors through the textile medium provoked a revolution on my way of being, feeling, thinking, and making. Therefore, this work attempts to develop critical feel-thinking around the colonial system that calls itself “modern” and has perpetuated the dominant Western culture against the Indigenous. I welcome the reader to navigate throughout these lines with an open perception of the notions of modernity/tradition, art/craft, body/mind, past/present, reverting and expanding its binary condition imposed by colonial power structures.
{"title":"A Return Through the Origins of Modernity … Pishi-pishimanta, awaspa, ñawpa kawsayniyta, saphiykunata, tarishani …","authors":"María José Murillo","doi":"10.1080/14759756.2021.1973295","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/14759756.2021.1973295","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract This paper intends to be shared as a personal testimony and hopes to be taken by the reader as a lived experience rather than mere academic research. Thus, although the text is based on historical evidence, the notion of “history” should not be understood as a linear succession of events but more as cyclical stories and times that are constantly Weaving themselves together into a present. Weaving, as a structuring activity generated by body-mind, space-time, human-nature relationships, has precisely structured natural, social, political, and cultural ecosystems of human life since the beginning of time. Weaving is, therefore, one of the primary expressive means that puts culture into practice. This essay aims to revive the paradoxical path—shaped by stories and processes of migration, colonization, and decolonization—that led to my reunion with Andean Weaving outside my country. Finding alive the voices that gave birth to the material language of my Indigenous ancestors through the textile medium provoked a revolution on my way of being, feeling, thinking, and making. Therefore, this work attempts to develop critical feel-thinking around the colonial system that calls itself “modern” and has perpetuated the dominant Western culture against the Indigenous. I welcome the reader to navigate throughout these lines with an open perception of the notions of modernity/tradition, art/craft, body/mind, past/present, reverting and expanding its binary condition imposed by colonial power structures.","PeriodicalId":32765,"journal":{"name":"Textile Leather Review","volume":"112 1","pages":"457 - 478"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-10-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"77138207","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-09-15DOI: 10.1080/14759756.2022.2109367
Houliang Chen
Abstract Enlightened by scholarships in recent decades about the cultural significance of women’s embroidery, this article attends to the scenes and activities featuring needlework in Charles Dickens’s Dombey and Son. Through his representations of the nineteenth-century needlework language in this novel, Dickens provides for readers a window into Victorian women’s everyday performance of embroidery. By focusing on his representations of needlework in the novel, this article reveals how the seemingly trivial performance of embroidery were embedded in Victorian schemas of gender and class configuration, and more importantly, how Dickens has artistically represented—while wishfully reproduced—the Victorian ideal of the gender divide through his rendering of needlework language.
{"title":"“An Index of Gentility”: Representations of Needlework in Dombey and Son","authors":"Houliang Chen","doi":"10.1080/14759756.2022.2109367","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/14759756.2022.2109367","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Enlightened by scholarships in recent decades about the cultural significance of women’s embroidery, this article attends to the scenes and activities featuring needlework in Charles Dickens’s Dombey and Son. Through his representations of the nineteenth-century needlework language in this novel, Dickens provides for readers a window into Victorian women’s everyday performance of embroidery. By focusing on his representations of needlework in the novel, this article reveals how the seemingly trivial performance of embroidery were embedded in Victorian schemas of gender and class configuration, and more importantly, how Dickens has artistically represented—while wishfully reproduced—the Victorian ideal of the gender divide through his rendering of needlework language.","PeriodicalId":32765,"journal":{"name":"Textile Leather Review","volume":"15 1","pages":"352 - 362"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-09-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"87679051","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-09-15DOI: 10.1080/14759756.2022.2102731
Rowan Bailey, N. Walton
The Big Rainbow Knit is a project informed and influenced by craftivist practices and culminated in the yarn bombing of Huddersfield train station by local, national and international communities of knitters in June 2021. As a landmark project within the WOVEN in Kirklees bi-annual festival, it became an important force for social cohesion in a Covid-19 context. This article introduces The Big Rainbow Knit as a specific case study within the wider context of Kirklees Council’s approach to place-based making. 1 As a textile festival WOVEN in Kirklees is made with, by and for local communities. We firstly address place-based making approaches in the contexts of craftivism and community practice with the aim of secondly, considering how The Big Rainbow Knit is a manifestation of co-creative participation in the spirit of social cohesion. Thirdly, we consider how the concept of the “glocal” is a means through which to reflect on the links between online and offline platforms. We argue that the hybrid between near and far in a “glocal” milieu allows for a range of voices (active knitters, audiences as recipients of yarn bombing activities and community group engagements with The Big Rainbow Knit) to become more visible as key agents in a place-based process. Collectively, these voices, gathered through a range of feedback mechanisms, have helped to change perceptions and attitudes toward knitting in a local authority context and to offer new insights into the ways in which the making-agency of knit can acquire value through place-based cultural development. [ FROM AUTHOR] Copyright of Textile: The Journal of Cloth & Culture is the property of Taylor & Francis Ltd and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full . (Copyright applies to all s.)
Big Rainbow Knit是一个受手工艺者实践影响的项目，并在2021年6月由当地、国家和国际针织社区在哈德斯菲尔德火车站的纱线爆炸事件中达到高潮。作为Kirklees两年一度的节日中weave的标志性项目，它成为Covid-19背景下社会凝聚力的重要力量。这篇文章介绍了大彩虹编织作为一个具体的案例研究，在更广泛的背景下，Kirklees委员会的方法，以地方为基础的制作。1 .作为一个纺织节，科克利斯的WOVEN是由当地社区共同制作的，也是为当地社区制作的。我们首先在工艺主义和社区实践的背景下解决基于场所的制作方法，其次，考虑到“大彩虹编织”是社会凝聚力精神下共同创作参与的体现。第三，我们考虑了“全球本地”的概念如何成为一种手段，通过它来反思线上和线下平台之间的联系。我们认为，在“全球本地”环境中，远近之间的混合允许一系列声音(活跃的编织者，作为纱线轰炸活动接受者的观众和与the Big Rainbow Knit的社区团体参与)在基于地点的过程中作为关键代理变得更加明显。总的来说，这些声音通过一系列反馈机制收集起来，帮助改变了当地政府对编织的看法和态度，并为编织的制作机构如何通过基于地方的文化发展获得价值提供了新的见解。纺织品版权:The Journal of Cloth & Culture是Taylor & Francis Ltd的财产，未经版权所有者的明确书面许可，其内容不得复制或通过电子邮件发送到多个网站或发布到listserv。但是，用户可以打印、下载或通过电子邮件发送文章供个人使用。这可以删节。对副本的准确性不作任何保证。用户应参阅原始出版版本的材料的完整。(版权适用于所有人。)
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Pub Date : 2022-09-15DOI: 10.1080/14759756.2022.2109896
Siún Carden
{"title":"Authenticity and Place-Based Knitwear: Fair Isle and Aran Knitting in Shetland and the West of Ireland","authors":"Siún Carden","doi":"10.1080/14759756.2022.2109896","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/14759756.2022.2109896","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":32765,"journal":{"name":"Textile Leather Review","volume":"186 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-09-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"81597545","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-09-06DOI: 10.1080/14759756.2022.2085988
F. Robins
{"title":"Stab It, Strangle It1: Media Representations of Knitters, and Subversions of the Stereotype to Reflect Inclusion and Diversity","authors":"F. Robins","doi":"10.1080/14759756.2022.2085988","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/14759756.2022.2085988","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":32765,"journal":{"name":"Textile Leather Review","volume":"85 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-09-06","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"76318546","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-08-19DOI: 10.1080/14759756.2022.2102725
Sharon McDonough, A. Foley, Helen Weadon, Rachel Taylor
{"title":"Ties That Bind or Exclude? Knitting and Craft Groups as Contested Spaces of Inclusion and Exclusion","authors":"Sharon McDonough, A. Foley, Helen Weadon, Rachel Taylor","doi":"10.1080/14759756.2022.2102725","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/14759756.2022.2102725","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":32765,"journal":{"name":"Textile Leather Review","volume":"15 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-08-19","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"73309433","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-08-19DOI: 10.1080/14759756.2022.2102734
R. Harman
1 Exhibition Review: Memory: Momente des Erinnerns und des Vergessens The Museum der Kulturen in Basel repeatedly illuminates the most diverse areas of ethnography with a wide range of exhibitions. In the permanent exhibition Memory: Momente des Erinnerns und des Vergessens curated by Alexander Brust more than 400 objects from the collection are shown and the theme of how people forget and remember in different cultures is explored. The following text will examine how the objects and the exhibition were labelled with regard to provenance but also other information and how ethically sensitive aspects were dealt with.
{"title":"Exhibition Review","authors":"R. Harman","doi":"10.1080/14759756.2022.2102734","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/14759756.2022.2102734","url":null,"abstract":"1 Exhibition Review: Memory: Momente des Erinnerns und des Vergessens The Museum der Kulturen in Basel repeatedly illuminates the most diverse areas of ethnography with a wide range of exhibitions. In the permanent exhibition Memory: Momente des Erinnerns und des Vergessens curated by Alexander Brust more than 400 objects from the collection are shown and the theme of how people forget and remember in different cultures is explored. The following text will examine how the objects and the exhibition were labelled with regard to provenance but also other information and how ethically sensitive aspects were dealt with.","PeriodicalId":32765,"journal":{"name":"Textile Leather Review","volume":"190 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-08-19","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"74513413","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-08-14DOI: 10.1080/14759756.2022.2094132
S. Fu
{"title":"Fashion, Gender and Agency in Latin American and Spanish Literature","authors":"S. Fu","doi":"10.1080/14759756.2022.2094132","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/14759756.2022.2094132","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":32765,"journal":{"name":"Textile Leather Review","volume":"38 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-08-14","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"86761903","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-08-12DOI: 10.1080/14759756.2022.2088012
Mary La Trobe-Bateman
{"title":"Thread Bearing Witness at the Somerset Rural Life Museum, Glastonbury","authors":"Mary La Trobe-Bateman","doi":"10.1080/14759756.2022.2088012","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/14759756.2022.2088012","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":32765,"journal":{"name":"Textile Leather Review","volume":"36 1","pages":"540 - 545"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-08-12","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"86704374","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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