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Learning ‘flow’: The anatomy of Lulesámi handicraft 学习“流”:Lulesámi手工艺的解剖
IF 0.4 Q1 Arts and Humanities Pub Date : 2022-03-01 DOI: 10.1386/crre_00067_1
Anna W. Gustafsson
While it is acknowledged that craftwork has the potential to generate well-being, relatively few empirical studies explore how this happens in practice. Some scholars have used the theoretical concept and phenomenological experience of ‘flow’ to analyse why craft-makers find their work satisfying and engaging. This article builds on such scholarship by empirically demonstrating how ‘flow experiences’ emerge. Drawing on anthropological fieldwork among Lulesámi craft-makers in Northern Norway, the article argues that ‘flow’ should not be taken for granted or seen as a straightforward and easily achieved benefit of craft. Instead, it is a skilful practice that requires learning, collaboration, time and repeated, embodied effort. It involves the transformation of the body through collaborative learning; something that makes ‘flow experiences’ not only learnt but deeply personal and communal at the same time. Through a detailed ethnographic account of how ‘flow’ emerges through the making of the gáppte (characteristic dress), the article provides important insights into contemporary Lulesámi craftsmanship at the same time as it speaks to the wider literature on craft, well-being and learning.
虽然人们承认手工艺品有可能产生幸福感,但相对较少的实证研究探讨这种情况在实践中是如何发生的。一些学者利用“流动”的理论概念和现象学经验来分析工艺制作者为什么觉得他们的作品令人满意和引人入胜。这篇文章通过实证证明“流动体验”是如何产生的,建立在这样的学术基础上。这篇文章借鉴了挪威北部Lulesámi工艺制造商的人类学田野调查,认为“流动”不应被视为理所当然,也不应被看作是工艺的直接而容易实现的好处。相反,这是一种技巧性的实践,需要学习、合作、时间和反复的、具体的努力。它涉及通过协作学习来改变身体;这使得“流动体验”不仅是习得的,同时也是深刻的个人和公共体验。通过对gáppte(特色连衣裙)制作过程中“流动”的详细民族志描述,这篇文章对当代Lulesámi工艺提供了重要的见解,同时也谈到了更广泛的工艺、幸福和学习文献。
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引用次数: 0
Crafting latex-coated fabrics: An experimental study with a local material of southern Thailand 制作乳胶涂层织物:泰国南部当地材料的实验研究
IF 0.4 Q1 Arts and Humanities Pub Date : 2022-03-01 DOI: 10.1386/crre_00069_1
Pharitporn Kawkamsue, Prachya Kritsanaphan
This article presents an experimental study of patterns created on latex-coated fabric by applying artistic and local craft techniques to create value-added aesthetics. The study sample was a southern community enterprise group in Southern Thailand, where the primary career was growing rubber trees. At present, rubber latex is used to coat fabrics in agricultural products such as artificial flooring pound, lime planting and planting trees for propagation. The experimental creative research was set up with the latex formula used for ponds or planting containers, local, readily available fabrics and techniques that can be applied by the community enterprise. The results found that the latex formula needed to be adjusted to reduce the stickiness so that it was suitable for particular pattern-making techniques. Using latex, it was possible to mix it with poster paint, acrylic paint, latex pigment and coloured latex to create other new colours. The rubber coating material was excellent in terms of water, and friction resistance, was washable and durable. The resulting coatings were combined with different textile techniques and applied as a material to enhance the aesthetics of other fabric and rubber-based products. The experiment resulted in new ways to create added value in the field of aesthetics to develop handicrafts imbued with local cultural identity. This innovative crafting process has the potential to be developed in association with a wide range of products, while increasing the economic value of rubber and the sustainability of the community.
本文对乳胶涂层织物上的图案进行了实验研究,运用艺术和当地工艺技术创造了增值美学。研究样本是泰国南部的一个南部社区企业集团,其主要职业是种植橡胶树。目前,橡胶乳胶被用于农产品中的织物涂层,如人造地板、石灰种植和植树繁殖。实验性创造性研究是用池塘或种植容器中使用的乳胶配方、当地现成的织物和社区企业可以应用的技术进行的。结果发现,乳胶配方需要调整以降低粘性,从而适用于特定的图案制作技术。使用乳胶,可以将其与海报涂料、丙烯酸涂料、乳胶颜料和彩色乳胶混合,创造其他新的颜色。该橡胶涂层材料具有优异的耐水性和耐磨性,可清洗且耐用。所得涂层与不同的纺织技术相结合,并作为一种材料应用,以增强其他织物和橡胶基产品的美观性。这项实验创造了在美学领域创造附加值的新方法,以发展具有当地文化特征的手工艺品。这种创新的工艺过程有可能与各种产品相结合,同时提高橡胶的经济价值和社区的可持续性。
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引用次数: 2
Rediscovering value through crafting plastic bags 通过制作塑料袋重新发现价值
IF 0.4 Q1 Arts and Humanities Pub Date : 2022-03-01 DOI: 10.1386/crre_00071_1
Taeyoun Kim
As a fibre artist, I have tried to create unique work that differentiates from contemporary art and historical art forms. One such attempt involves my work using plastic bags and the resulting outcomes, which began with my interest in yarn. Many factors determine the quality of a material but a common characteristic is that a textile has its roots in yarn. I questioned ‘what if the yarn changes? ‐ that is, if the materials sourced for yarn production change, before conceptualizing a specific artefact, the yarn can become a unique fabric in itself’. After a long series of tests with different materials, I chose to use the plastic bag, which has astounding potential as an art/craft material. My aim was to return the practicality of an everyday object back into everyday life. By giving a new value to the plastic bags’ original function of holding and moving things, I intended to unveil questions of ‘utility’ and ‘meaning’. In addition to its physical properties and material potential, the plastic bag broadened my conceptual framework of meaningful craft practice. When plastic bags first appeared, they were a symbol of hygiene and convenience in modern life. However, this ground-breaking material has since turned out to be a main culprit of environmental destruction; these contradictory perspectives representing contrasting ‘values’. Through my extensive work with recycled plastic bags, mainly sourced through waste streams, I have discovered further values and realize that the utility and value of an object (existence) are not fixed, but are dependent on the gaze and attitude of the viewer or user. In this article, I convey what I have found and realized through hand crafted yarn production and weaving techniques and hope it will lead to the discovery of further values for new audiences.
作为一名纤维艺术家,我试图创作出有别于当代艺术和历史艺术形式的独特作品。其中一次尝试涉及我使用塑料袋的工作及其结果,这始于我对纱线的兴趣。许多因素决定了材料的质量,但一个共同的特点是纺织品的根源在于纱线。我问“如果纱线变了怎么办?”也就是说,如果用于纱线生产的材料发生了变化,那么在概念化特定的人工制品之前,纱线本身就可以成为一种独特的织物。在用不同材料进行了一系列长时间的测试后,我选择使用塑料袋,它作为一种艺术/工艺材料具有惊人的潜力。我的目标是让日常用品的实用性回到日常生活中。通过赋予塑料袋原有的容纳和移动物体的功能一个新的价值,我打算揭示“效用”和“意义”的问题。除了它的物理特性和材料潜力,塑料袋拓宽了我有意义的工艺实践的概念框架。当塑料袋首次出现时,它们是现代生活中卫生和方便的象征。然而,这种开创性的材料后来被证明是破坏环境的罪魁祸首;这些矛盾的观点代表着截然不同的“价值观”。通过我对主要来自废物流的回收塑料袋的广泛研究,我发现了更多的价值,并意识到一个物体(存在)的效用和价值不是固定的,而是取决于观看者或用户的凝视和态度。在这篇文章中,我传达了我通过手工纱线生产和编织技术所发现和实现的东西,并希望它能为新的受众发现更多的价值。
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引用次数: 0
Berber Memories: Women and Jewellery in Morocco, Michel Draguet (2021) 柏柏尔人的回忆:摩洛哥的女性与珠宝,米歇尔·德拉盖(2021)
IF 0.4 Q1 Arts and Humanities Pub Date : 2022-03-01 DOI: 10.1386/crre_00072_5
R. Bernabei
Review of: Berber Memories: Women and Jewellery in Morocco, Michel Draguet (2021)Brussels: Mercatorfonds and Yale University Press, 600 pp.,ISBN 978-0-30025-395-5, h/bk, £65.00s
评论:《柏柏尔记忆:摩洛哥的妇女与珠宝》,Michel Draguet(2021),布鲁塞尔:Mercatorfonds和耶鲁大学出版社,600页,ISBN 978-0-30025-395-5,h/bk,65.00s英镑
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引用次数: 0
Expanding wood: Developing and validating a new material 扩展木材:开发和验证一种新材料
IF 0.4 Q1 Arts and Humanities Pub Date : 2022-03-01 DOI: 10.1386/crre_00068_1
Karol Murlak
Expanded Wood is an openwork panel made out of wood that maintains its original strength but significantly gains width and minimally loses weight. The material uses raw wood in a more efficient way that can help to reduce deforestation and may offer a solution to the problem of dwindling natural resources. This article explores the process of creating and developing the new material through making, experiencing physical models and empirical, physical testing. The combination of these three techniques produces a creative process that is based in both individual sensory perception and quantitative data analysis.
Expanded Wood是一种由木材制成的镂空面板,它保持了原来的强度,但显著增加了宽度,并将重量降至最低。这种材料以更有效的方式使用生木,有助于减少森林砍伐,并可能解决自然资源减少的问题。本文通过制作、体验物理模型和实证、物理测试来探索新材料的创造和开发过程。这三种技术的结合产生了一个基于个人感官感知和定量数据分析的创造性过程。
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引用次数: 0
Combining the traditional craft of twined flower making with stone 结合传统的石花编织工艺
IF 0.4 Q1 Arts and Humanities Pub Date : 2022-03-01 DOI: 10.1386/crre_00070_1
Yen-Fei Chou, Tsai-Yun Lo
Twined flower making has been a handicraft practiced by women since the Qing Dynasty (1885‐94) in which wires, papers and silk threads are the main materials used by entwining the materials together in various combinations into the forms of flowers. However, the rise of plastic flowers in the 1970s, the evolution of lifestyle and weakened folk traditions has led to the gradual decline of twined flower craft. The craft of twined flower making has not been taught in a systematic fashion and thus is more difficult to pass onto new generations. The research aims to bring the art of twined flower into daily life to continue the future of this craft. The eastern region of Taiwan has an abundance of stone resources. The conception of the project is to unite the contrasting materials of twined paper flowers and to augment the scope of the craft. Traditionally twined flower handicraft has been applied mostly as an ornament or fashion accessory for women. The project extends the craft to the context of stationery by combining features found in traditional Chinese painting to produce a modern object.
自清朝(1885 - 94)以来,编花一直是女性的一种手工艺,其中金属丝、纸张和丝线是主要材料,通过各种组合将材料缠绕在一起形成花朵的形状。然而,20世纪70年代塑料花的兴起,生活方式的演变和民间传统的弱化,导致了缠绕花工艺的逐渐衰落。编织花的工艺还没有被系统化地传授,因此很难传给下一代。本研究旨在将盘花艺术带入日常生活,延续盘花工艺的未来。台湾东部地区有丰富的石材资源。该项目的概念是结合缠绕纸花的对比材料,并扩大工艺的范围。传统的编织花工艺品主要是作为女性的装饰品或时尚配饰。该项目将工艺扩展到文具的背景下,结合传统中国画的特征来制作一个现代物品。
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引用次数: 0
In dialogue with the environment: The environment, creativity, materials and making 与环境对话:环境、创意、材料和制作
IF 0.4 Q1 Arts and Humanities Pub Date : 2022-03-01 DOI: 10.1386/crre_00064_1
M. Mäkelä, B. Aktaş
In a making process, a craftsperson starts a dialogue with the environment, tools and materials that are essential to their professional practice. During this materially and bodily entangled process, the act of making is thinking per se: the forming of the material emerges through the interaction with the material and is thus simultaneous with, and intrinsic to, the creative process itself. This article presents a practice-led case study of material thinking in the context of contemporary ceramics that one of the authors experienced during a research period in New Zealand. By utilizing walking along the changing landscapes as a creative method, as well as interacting with local practitioners, the craftsperson collects natural minerals and follows the material’s flow, letting it actively shape the creative events. The encounter with soil-based materials in their different forms and working with them in renewed ways reveal how the material’s behaviours influence the craftsperson’s thinking and making. This study shows that walking can facilitate the entanglement between the craftsperson’s knowledge and newly discovered materials, generating emotional and dialogical relationship with the environment, including human collaborators.
在制作过程中,手工艺者开始与环境、工具和材料进行对话,这些对他们的专业实践至关重要。在这个物质和身体纠缠的过程中,制造行为本身就是思考:物质的形成是通过与物质的相互作用而产生的,因此与创造过程本身是同步的,也是内在的。本文介绍了一位作者在新西兰研究期间所经历的当代陶瓷背景下材料思维的实践案例研究。通过将沿着不断变化的景观行走作为一种创造性的方法,以及与当地从业者的互动,手工艺者收集天然矿物并遵循材料的流动,让其积极塑造创造性的事件。与不同形式的土基材料的接触,以及以新的方式与之合作,揭示了材料的行为如何影响工匠的思维和制作。这项研究表明,步行可以促进手工艺者的知识和新发现的材料之间的纠缠,产生与环境的情感和对话关系,包括人类的合作者。
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引用次数: 5
Nature as source and inspiration for materials and making 自然作为材料和制作的来源和灵感
IF 0.4 Q1 Arts and Humanities Pub Date : 2022-03-01 DOI: 10.1386/crre_00063_2
K. Niedderer, K. Townsend
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引用次数: 1
Crafticulation as a method of knowledge creation 手工业是创造知识的一种方法
IF 0.4 Q1 Arts and Humanities Pub Date : 2021-09-01 DOI: 10.1386/crre_00049_1
H. Lahti, Päivi Fernström
Our aim in this article is to introduce the idea of ‘crafticulation’ as a part of scientific method and to present a case study related to it. A novel course, Materializing in Craft Science, was offered in the first year of the craft teacher master’s degree at the University of Helsinki. The aim of the course was to pilot a method of crafticulation by materializing theoretical mind maps. Crafticulation consists of the words, ‘craft’ and ‘articulation’ and further, crafticulation is seen as a part of practice-led research in which craft plays a key role in eliciting a wide spectrum of knowledge. Our research question is how crafticulation emerged in students’ inquiry processes. The research data included twenty individual mind maps, materializations and reflections of the course. Based on theory-driven data analysis, the results indicated that many students used crafticulation for demonstration purposes. For example, they tested the connection between their craft-making process and well-being. Another approach was to convey a certain experience by way of crafticulation. In some cases, crafticulation was linked to analogies and metaphors in learning theoretical concepts. Furthermore, the students found new avenues in which to reflect research topics and to deepen their inquiry processes.
我们在这篇文章中的目的是介绍“工艺”作为科学方法的一部分的概念,并提出一个与之相关的案例研究。赫尔辛基大学工艺教师硕士学位的第一年开设了一门新颖的课程——工艺科学物质化。这门课程的目的是通过将理论思维导图具体化,来尝试一种制作方法。工艺由“工艺”和“发音”两个词组成,此外,工艺被视为实践主导研究的一部分,工艺在激发广泛的知识方面起着关键作用。我们的研究问题是,在学生的探究过程中,匠心是如何产生的。研究数据包括20个个人思维导图、实体化和课程反思。基于理论驱动的数据分析,结果表明许多学生使用手工制作来演示目的。例如,他们测试了手工艺品制作过程与幸福感之间的联系。另一种方法是通过手工制作来传达某种体验。在某些情况下,工艺与学习理论概念的类比和隐喻有关。此外,学生们发现了反映研究课题和深化探究过程的新途径。
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引用次数: 1
Crafting Anatomies: Archives, Dialogues, Fabrications, Katherine Townsend, Rhian Solomon and Amanda Briggs-Goode (eds) (2020) 制作解剖学:档案,对话,捏造,凯瑟琳·汤森,莱恩·所罗门和阿曼达·布里格斯-古德(编)(2020)
IF 0.4 Q1 Arts and Humanities Pub Date : 2021-09-01 DOI: 10.1386/crre_00058_5
A. Slater
Review of: Crafting Anatomies: Archives, Dialogues, Fabrications, Katherine Townsend, Rhian Solomon and Amanda Briggs-Goode (eds) (2020)London: Bloomsbury, 344 pp.,ISBN 978-1-35007-548-1, ePDF, £61.20
回顾:制作解剖学:档案,对话,捏造,凯瑟琳·汤森,赖安·所罗门和阿曼达·布里格斯-古德(编)(2020)伦敦:布鲁姆斯伯里,344页,ISBN 978-1-35007-548-1, ePDF,£61.20
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引用次数: 0
期刊
Craft Research
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