Pub Date : 2012-02-01DOI: 10.1525/GFC.2012.12.1.62
G. Dougherty
Nationwide, trucks brought in $630 million last year, an increase of 3.6 percent over the previous year. However, the rise of the food trucks hasn't come without trouble. A recent court ruling held that vendors in New York City aren't allowed to park in metered parking spaces. Truck operators in suburban Washington, D.C., are hamstrung by the hodgepodge of regulations that vary from one municipality to the next. A license to cook in one city is no protection from a citation in the next. Chicago wraps food trucks in more red tape than perhaps any other major city. Food-truck vendors are forbidden to cook on their trucks—or even do so much as slice a sandwich in half. In practicality, such restrictions limit the city's food-truck fleet to the small catering trucks known as “roach coaches” that typically serve construction sites and industrial parks.
{"title":"Chicago's Food Trucks: Wrapped in Red Tape","authors":"G. Dougherty","doi":"10.1525/GFC.2012.12.1.62","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/GFC.2012.12.1.62","url":null,"abstract":"Nationwide, trucks brought in $630 million last year, an increase of 3.6 percent over the previous year. However, the rise of the food trucks hasn't come without trouble. A recent court ruling held that vendors in New York City aren't allowed to park in metered parking spaces. Truck operators in suburban Washington, D.C., are hamstrung by the hodgepodge of regulations that vary from one municipality to the next. A license to cook in one city is no protection from a citation in the next. Chicago wraps food trucks in more red tape than perhaps any other major city. Food-truck vendors are forbidden to cook on their trucks—or even do so much as slice a sandwich in half. In practicality, such restrictions limit the city's food-truck fleet to the small catering trucks known as “roach coaches” that typically serve construction sites and industrial parks.","PeriodicalId":429420,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica: The Journal of Critical Food Studies","volume":"76 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2012-02-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"126222692","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
While visiting Thailand, my desire to bring home the best shrimp paste led me to an elderly seller and to a young man who made the paste. Shrimp paste is a necessary binder used in innumerable seasoning pastes in Thai cooking, and these two people9s connection to shrimp paste had, in fact, become a crucial binder in their own lives. For the elderly seller, shrimp paste kept her linked with her family after her marriage. It helped her earn an income independent of her abusive wealthy husband. The shrimp paste maker married and thereby found a profession that he loves. Eventually, he became the sole maker of this ancient paste in his wife9s family, carrying on their 150-year-old tradition. Once made with care and pride only by families, today shrimp paste is mass-produced in factories. The change affects not only the quality and taste of Thai cooking, but also food-related tradition and culture. The elderly seller9s livelihood is waning, and the young man who is the elderly seller9s source, is now the last of a long line of makers of this ancient ingredient.
{"title":"A Lamentation for Shrimp Paste","authors":"Su-mei Yu","doi":"10.1525/GFC.2009.9.3.53","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/GFC.2009.9.3.53","url":null,"abstract":"While visiting Thailand, my desire to bring home the best shrimp paste led me to an elderly seller and to a young man who made the paste. Shrimp paste is a necessary binder used in innumerable seasoning pastes in Thai cooking, and these two people9s connection to shrimp paste had, in fact, become a crucial binder in their own lives. For the elderly seller, shrimp paste kept her linked with her family after her marriage. It helped her earn an income independent of her abusive wealthy husband. The shrimp paste maker married and thereby found a profession that he loves. Eventually, he became the sole maker of this ancient paste in his wife9s family, carrying on their 150-year-old tradition. Once made with care and pride only by families, today shrimp paste is mass-produced in factories. The change affects not only the quality and taste of Thai cooking, but also food-related tradition and culture. The elderly seller9s livelihood is waning, and the young man who is the elderly seller9s source, is now the last of a long line of makers of this ancient ingredient.","PeriodicalId":429420,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica: The Journal of Critical Food Studies","volume":"13 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2009-08-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"121421073","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Molecular Gastronomy: Exploring the Science of Flavor","authors":"S. Allport","doi":"10.5860/choice.43-5856","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5860/choice.43-5856","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":429420,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica: The Journal of Critical Food Studies","volume":"100 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2007-02-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"132882577","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Growing Food in Suburbia","authors":"J. Hausman","doi":"10.1525/GFC.2003.3.3.85","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/GFC.2003.3.3.85","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":429420,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica: The Journal of Critical Food Studies","volume":"3 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2003-08-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"125199835","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"The Vinegar of Spilamberto","authors":"D. Muscatine","doi":"10.1525/GFC.2003.3.3.14","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/GFC.2003.3.3.14","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":429420,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica: The Journal of Critical Food Studies","volume":"29 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2003-08-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"123574088","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2003-05-01DOI: 10.1525/GFC.2003.3.2.104
Jan Longone
{"title":"\"As Worthless as Savorless Salt\"?: Teaching Children to Cook, Clean, and (Often) Conform","authors":"Jan Longone","doi":"10.1525/GFC.2003.3.2.104","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/GFC.2003.3.2.104","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":429420,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica: The Journal of Critical Food Studies","volume":"17 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2003-05-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"116443976","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2003-05-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2003.3.2.101
E. Salonen
{"title":"Here We Come, World!: Food Trends in Finland","authors":"E. Salonen","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2003.3.2.101","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2003.3.2.101","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":429420,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica: The Journal of Critical Food Studies","volume":"208 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2003-05-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"131398841","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
This article examines cookbooks produced by American communes in the early 1970s, considering each as the historical record of a unique political and social community. It also analyzes them as still-relevant examples of how eating habits can reflect political ideals. The variety of these books testifies to the many ways of negotiating this question. The first part provides an overview of the counter-cultural movement and the role of food within it. The conviction that society had gone terribly awry led to the founding of thousands of utopian communities, determined to invent and model alternatives. Food was inseparable from the most closely held values of commune residents, who tried to live what they believed through making conscious choices about what they ate, how they grew or got their food, and how they divided the labor. What people discussed most on communes was apparently not sex, not "the revolution," but food. These eclectic, irreverent cookbooks remind us that eating is seldom a pure expression of political conviction; it also reflects considerations of economy, availability, ethnicity, personal history, and sensual gratification. Interspersing recipes with creative writing and psychedelic art, one cookbook explains how to skin a porcupine, cook with hashish, and make Grand Marnier sabayon. Another advocates bread-baking and shop-lifting in its critique of capitalism; a third approaches cooking as part of Buddhist practice. Throughout, their leisurely, process-oriented approach to food is the antithesis of both Betty Crocker and Martha Stewart. They show how cooking and eating can bring together pleasure and politics in unexpected ways.
{"title":"The Political Palate: Reading Commune Cookbooks","authors":"S. Hartman","doi":"10.1525/GFC.2003.3.2.29","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/GFC.2003.3.2.29","url":null,"abstract":"This article examines cookbooks produced by American communes in the \u0000early 1970s, considering each as the historical record of a unique political and \u0000social community. It also analyzes them as still-relevant examples of how eating \u0000habits can reflect political ideals. The variety of these books testifies to the many \u0000ways of negotiating this question. The first part provides an overview of the counter-cultural movement and \u0000the role of food within it. The conviction that society had gone terribly awry led to \u0000the founding of thousands of utopian communities, determined to invent and \u0000model alternatives. Food was inseparable from the most closely held values of commune residents, who tried to live what they believed through making \u0000conscious choices about what they ate, how they grew or got their food, and how \u0000they divided the labor. What people discussed most on communes was \u0000apparently not sex, not \"the revolution,\" but food. These eclectic, irreverent cookbooks remind us that eating is seldom a \u0000pure expression of political conviction; it also reflects considerations of economy, \u0000availability, ethnicity, personal history, and sensual gratification. Interspersing \u0000recipes with creative writing and psychedelic art, one cookbook explains how to \u0000skin a porcupine, cook with hashish, and make Grand Marnier sabayon. Another \u0000advocates bread-baking and shop-lifting in its critique of capitalism; a third \u0000approaches cooking as part of Buddhist practice. Throughout, their leisurely, \u0000process-oriented approach to food is the antithesis of both Betty Crocker and \u0000Martha Stewart. They show how cooking and eating can bring together pleasure \u0000and politics in unexpected ways.","PeriodicalId":429420,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica: The Journal of Critical Food Studies","volume":"40 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2003-05-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"127354598","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Originating in East Africa, coffee was one of the first internationally traded commodities. An Arab monopoly on the bean was broken by the development of tropical European colonies. Coffee was the ideal colonial crop, but its cultivation relied upon widespread slavery and abusive economic relationships between regions. Many of these institutionalized inequities remain embedded in post-colonial coffee trading patterns. Rich coffee-consuming nations and the multinational trading and roasting companies that service their demand enjoy neocolonial dominance of growers around the world, many of whom are small landowners and family farmers in poor countries. At the same time, developed-world governmental interest in producing countries has waned, leaving multinationals free to pursue their own policies in large parts of the world. At present, there is a worldwide slump in coffee prices that is devastating economies throughout the developing world without translating into meaningfully lower prices for coffee consumers. One of the few programs to step into this political void is Fair Trade. By reconfiguring the trading relationship between coffee producers and consumers to emphasize a more direct relationship, Fair Trade appropriates globalized trading networks for the benefit of both coffee growers and coffee drinkers.
{"title":"Colony in a Cup","authors":"Gregory Dicum","doi":"10.1525/GFC.2003.3.2.71","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/GFC.2003.3.2.71","url":null,"abstract":"Originating in East Africa, coffee was one of the first internationally traded \u0000commodities. An Arab monopoly on the bean was broken by the development of \u0000tropical European colonies. Coffee was the ideal colonial crop, but its cultivation \u0000relied upon widespread slavery and abusive economic relationships between \u0000regions. Many of these institutionalized inequities remain embedded in post-colonial coffee trading patterns. Rich coffee-consuming nations and the \u0000multinational trading and roasting companies that service their demand enjoy \u0000neocolonial dominance of growers around the world, many of whom are small \u0000landowners and family farmers in poor countries. At the same time, developed-world governmental interest in producing countries has waned, leaving \u0000multinationals free to pursue their own policies in large parts of the world. At \u0000present, there is a worldwide slump in coffee prices that is devastating \u0000economies throughout the developing world without translating into meaningfully \u0000lower prices for coffee consumers. One of the few programs to step into this \u0000political void is Fair Trade. By reconfiguring the trading relationship between \u0000coffee producers and consumers to emphasize a more direct relationship, Fair \u0000Trade appropriates globalized trading networks for the benefit of both coffee \u0000growers and coffee drinkers.","PeriodicalId":429420,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica: The Journal of Critical Food Studies","volume":"10 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2003-05-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"133526057","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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