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Gut Reaction: The Enteric Terrors of Washington Irving 直觉反应:华盛顿欧文的肠道恐怖
Pub Date : 2003-05-01 DOI: 10.1525/GFC.2003.3.2.41
Frederick Kaufman
Every school child has read Washington Irving9s Legend of Sleepy Hollow , the story of an itinerant schoolteacher, poetaster, and rejected suitor named Ichabod Crane who witnesses the apparition of a headless horseman, that terrifying spectre whose detached cranium is in fact nothing but a pumpkin. Over the years this country9s most famous ghost story has been interpreted in many waysas political allegory, archetypal comedy, forerunner of the American gothic traditionbut never specifically as a piece about food. Gut Reaction: The Enteric Terrors of Washington Irving will examine the role of squash and other edibles in Irving9s work and seek to define a relationship between the early American food story and the early American ghost story, the link between what Irving once called America9s "eating mania" and gut terror.
每个学生都读过华盛顿·欧文的《断头谷传奇》,这个故事讲的是一个名叫伊卡伯德·克兰的流动教师、诗人和被拒绝的追求者,他目睹了一个无头骑士的幽灵,这个可怕的幽灵的头颅实际上只是一个南瓜。多年来,这个国家最著名的鬼故事被以多种方式解读:政治寓言、喜剧原型、美国哥特式传统的先驱,但从未被明确地视为关于食物的故事。《肠道反应:华盛顿的肠道恐惧》将考察南瓜和其他食物在欧文作品中的作用,并试图定义早期美国食物故事和早期美国鬼故事之间的关系,以及欧文曾称之为美国“饮食狂热”和肠道恐惧之间的联系。
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引用次数: 1
Train Oil and Snotters: Eating Antarctic Wild Foods 火车油和鼻涕虫:吃南极野生食物
Pub Date : 2003-02-01 DOI: 10.1525/GFC.2003.3.1.37
Jeff Rubin
People may no longer eat the wild foods of Antarctica, because the Antarctic Treaty9s Protocol on Environmental Protection signed in 1991 prohibits even "disturbing" any wildlife, but there is a long history of living off the land in Antarctica and on the remote islands of the Southern Ocean. Visitors regularly ate seals, penguins and other seabirds, eggs, shellfish, and several unusual endemic plants. Fresh food was critical in avoiding scurvy, caused by a lack of Vitamin C. Local foods also occupied a prominent place on the table during Antarctic holidays such as Midwinter9s Day.
人们可能不再吃南极的野生食物,因为1991年签署的《南极环境保护条约议定书》甚至禁止“干扰”任何野生动物,但在南极洲和南大洋的偏远岛屿上,人们以陆地为生的历史悠久。游客经常吃海豹、企鹅和其他海鸟、蛋、贝类和几种不寻常的当地植物。新鲜食物对于避免因缺乏维生素c而导致的坏血病至关重要。在南极的节日里,比如冬至节,当地食物也占据了餐桌上的重要位置。
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引用次数: 4
Sonja Alhääuser's Sweet Installations
Pub Date : 2003-02-01 DOI: 10.1525/GFC.2003.3.1.10
C. Dupree
Don9t we visit museums to look at art, not 9heaven forbid9 to smell it, salivate at it, and eat it? Don9t we arrange our sculptures on pedestals, and contemplate aesthetic at arm9s length? German artist Sonja Alhuser thumbs her nose at such convention. She makes sculptures from sweets, and gleefully invites us to devour them. Soon, chocolate crumbs litter the gallery floor and her sculptures are reduced to rubble. There9s an alluring naughtiness to this endorsed destruction-by-consumption of art in such an elegant setting. But as we nibble, aren9t we contradicting the museum9s mission to preserve and honor art? Haven9t we dismantled the museum-goer9s role as observer? Alhuser9s gradually disappearing sculptures prompt us to question traditional beliefs and expectations about art9s immortality and its function in museums. By instructing us to eat (and alter) her work, Alhuser relinquishes aesthetic control, and denies the dictum that great art is perfect as is. Instead, she lures us with chocolate9s evocative and nostalgic aromas, and asks us to participate in her work and its destruction. We are no longer mere observers, but have been invited inside.
我们去博物馆不是为了看艺术,而不是为了闻它、垂涎它、吃它吗?我们不是把雕塑摆放在基座上,在一臂之遥的地方思考美学吗?德国艺术家Sonja Alhuser对这样的惯例嗤之以鼻。她用糖果做雕塑,高兴地邀请我们吞食它们。很快,巧克力屑散落在画廊的地板上,她的雕塑变成了瓦砾。在这样一个优雅的环境中,这种被认可的通过消费来破坏艺术的行为有一种诱人的顽皮。但是,当我们慢慢咀嚼的时候,我们不是违背了博物馆保护和尊重艺术的使命吗?我们难道没有废除博物馆管理者作为观察者的角色吗?阿尔胡塞逐渐消失的雕塑让我们开始质疑关于艺术不朽及其在博物馆中的功能的传统信念和期望。通过指导我们食用(或修改)她的作品,阿尔赫塞放弃了对美学的控制,并否认了“伟大的艺术是完美的”这一格言。相反,她用巧克力令人回味和怀旧的香气吸引我们,并邀请我们参与她的工作和破坏。我们不再仅仅是旁观者,而是被邀请进入。
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引用次数: 1
Weight Watchers at Forty: A Celebration 四十岁的减肥者:庆祝
Pub Date : 2003-02-01 DOI: 10.1525/GFC.2003.3.1.16
J. Hendley
This year marks the fortieth anniversary of Weight Watchers International, Inc., and while the program has changed considerably since its origins in the living room of its founder, Jean Nidetch, its essential core remains the same. Group support-encouragement, not judgment, from peers who have also known the shame and isolation of being fatremains key to its success. From its origins, the Weight Watchers program allayed itself with the weight loss and nutrition research community, evolving to include the latest knowledge in these burgeoning fields. Even as weight loss programs fell out of favor in the last two decades, with some researchers becoming disenchanted with the concept of restricted diets, the Weight Watchers programwith its emphasis on being a lifestyle, not a dietsurvived and thrived by continuing to reinvent itself. The food plan, which began as a fairly rigid diet couched in terms suggestive of law enforcement, has evolved into today9s much more flexible POINTS system. Weight Watchers recipes-once appreciated only by fellow dietershave become mainstream fare meant to be shared, unapologetically, by all. The current program is multifaceted, incorporating exercise strategies and principles of neuro-linguistic programming along with the traditional focus on group support and eating guidelines. But the Weight Watchers philosophy (epitomized by its spokespeople, from Nidetch to the current Sarah Ferguson) remains constant, espousing that anyone, no matter how far from grace they have fallen, can start over.
今年是慧俪轻体国际公司(Weight Watchers International, Inc.)成立40周年,虽然这个项目自创始人让·尼德奇(Jean Nidetch)在客厅里创立以来已经发生了很大的变化,但其基本核心仍未改变。团体的支持——来自同辈的鼓励,而不是评判,这些同辈也知道肥胖的耻辱和孤独——仍然是它成功的关键。从一开始,慧俪轻体项目就与减肥和营养研究团体联系在一起,发展到包括这些新兴领域的最新知识。即使在过去二十年里,随着一些研究人员对限制饮食的概念不再抱有幻想,减肥计划也不再受欢迎,慧俪轻体(weight Watchers)强调的是一种生活方式,而不是一种饮食,它通过不断自我改造而生存下来,并蓬勃发展。食物计划最初是一种相当严格的饮食,用执法手段来表达,已经演变成今天更加灵活的积分制度。慧俪轻体(Weight Watchers)的食谱——曾经只有其他节食者才会欣赏——现在变成了所有人都可以毫无歉意地分享的主流食谱。目前的项目是多方面的,结合了锻炼策略和神经语言编程原则,以及传统的团体支持和饮食指南。但慧俪轻体的理念(体现在从尼迪奇到现在的莎拉·弗格森的代言人身上)始终如一,坚信任何人,无论离优雅有多远,都可以重新开始。
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引用次数: 3
Macaroni & Cheese Survey 通心粉和奶酪调查
Pub Date : 2003-02-01 DOI: 10.1525/GFC.2003.3.1.14
T. Kirts
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引用次数: 0
France: Dining with the Doom Generation 法国:与厄运一代共进晚餐
Pub Date : 2002-11-01 DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2002.2.4.80
Lucie Perineau
French cooking is going down the drain. In fact, it9s been going that way since the 1960s9,when women abandoned the kitchen to take up jobs. But there9s more to the problem thana mere lack of time: our whole food culture seems to be floundering. Confused byGMOs, disgusted by mad cow attacks and fatally attracted to junk food, Frenchconsumers have lost control over their shopping carts and diets, and lost interest incooking.As a result, the social function of food is disappearing: today, dining with your friendscan be a daunting experience. Oddly, this does not prevent most French from seeing theircooking as "still the best in the world", and dismissing the others; this is precisely one ofthe reasons of its downfall. Today, as British and American chefs take over traditionalFrench cooking, it9s definitely time for another French food revolution.
法国烹饪正在走下坡路。事实上,自20世纪60年代以来,这种趋势就一直在发展,当时女性放弃了厨房,转而从事工作。但问题不仅仅是时间不够:我们的整个饮食文化似乎都在挣扎。对转基因生物的困惑,对疯牛病的厌恶,对垃圾食品的致命吸引,法国消费者已经失去了对购物车和饮食的控制,对烹饪也失去了兴趣。因此,食物的社交功能正在消失:今天,和朋友一起吃饭可能是一种令人生畏的经历。奇怪的是,这并不能阻止大多数法国人认为他们的烹饪“仍然是世界上最好的”,并对其他国家的烹饪不屑一顾;这正是其垮台的原因之一。今天,当英国和美国的厨师接管了传统的法国烹饪,是时候进行另一场法国食物革命了。
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引用次数: 0
Nero Blanc's Recipe for the Perfect Yule Log Nero Blanc的完美圣诞柴的配方
Pub Date : 2002-11-01 DOI: 10.1525/GFC.2002.2.4.122
Nero Blanc
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引用次数: 0
"Deviled Ham Untouched by Hands": Food-Related Vintage Stereoviews “未被手碰过的魔鬼火腿”:与食物相关的复古立体视图
Pub Date : 2002-11-01 DOI: 10.1525/GFC.2002.2.4.53
Jeanne Schinto
This is an essay about depictions of food in vintage stereoviews, i.e., three-dimensionalphotographs mass-marketed in the 19 th and early 20 th centuries. The piece, illustratedwith striking examples from the author9s collection, offers a look at a unique resource.Images include meat processors working in Chicago at the time of Upton Sinclair;Italians drying spaghetti on racks in the streets of Naples; East-End Londoners readyingthemselves for a banquet to honor King Edward VII; and a Liberty Bell made entirely ofCalifornia apples. The author introduces to Gastronomica 9s readers this immensely rich,largely undiscovered store of visual information about food history and culture.
这是一篇关于在19世纪和20世纪初大量销售的老式立体照片中描绘食物的文章。这篇文章以作者收集的引人注目的例子为例,提供了一个独特的资源。照片中有厄普顿·辛克莱(Upton Sinclair)时代在芝加哥工作的肉类加工者;意大利人在那不勒斯街头的架子上晒意大利面;伦敦东区的人们正在准备为爱德华七世举行的宴会;以及一个完全由加州苹果制成的自由钟。作者向《美食经济学》的读者介绍了这一极其丰富的、大部分未被发现的关于食物历史和文化的视觉信息。
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引用次数: 0
Big Cheese, Small Business 大奶酪,小生意
Pub Date : 2002-11-01 DOI: 10.1525/GFC.2002.2.4.60
B. Dooley
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引用次数: 0
Mikhail Larionov's Still Life with Crayfish 米哈伊尔·拉里诺夫的《小龙虾静物》
Pub Date : 2002-11-01 DOI: 10.1525/GFC.2002.2.4.10
Sonya Bekkerman
Mikhail Larionov9s Still-Life with Crayfish is a result of the artist sintense engagementwith Russian folk art traditions. In attempting to liberate Russian art from the influence ofthe West, Larionov discovered new formal languages by looking to his heritage andbringing into his paintings images derived from icons, lubki (popular prints) as well aspainted shop signs and children sart. Although Larionov did not spearhead the Russiancrafts revival, his participation became critical for its dissemination. Still-Life with Crayfish exemplifies Larionov9s insistence on russifying Western forms.The lessons of Czanne and the bold experiments of the Fauves figure prominently;however, the artist9s conception of line, depth and color is a clear reference to lubki . Thestrident palette reflects Eastern influences, and the feast itself conveys an essentiallyRussian character. Larionov spassionate interest in creating new art forms inclined himto draw upon a diversity of sources. His admiration for the stability and timelessness ofRussian peasant culture, life and art played a critical role in developing his oeuvre andallowed him to create a distinctive style independent of the West without wholly rejectingit.
米哈伊尔·拉里奥诺夫的《小龙虾静物》是这位艺术家与俄罗斯民间艺术传统密切接触的结果。在试图将俄罗斯艺术从西方的影响中解放出来的过程中,Larionov通过寻找他的遗产,并将他的绘画图像从图标,lubki(流行版画)以及绘制的商店招牌和儿童肖像中提取出来,发现了新的形式语言。虽然拉里奥诺夫并不是俄罗斯工艺复兴的先锋,但他的参与对其传播至关重要。《静物与小龙虾》体现了拉里尼奥夫对俄罗斯化西方形式的坚持。琴的教训和野兽派大胆的实验是突出的;然而,艺术家的线条,深度和颜色的概念是一个明确的参考卢布基。刺耳的调色板反映了东方的影响,盛宴本身传达了一种本质上的俄罗斯特色。拉里奥诺夫对创造新艺术形式的热情使他倾向于利用各种来源。他对俄罗斯农民文化、生活和艺术的稳定和永恒的钦佩在他的作品发展中发挥了关键作用,使他能够创造一种独立于西方的独特风格,而不是完全拒绝它。
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Gastronomica: The Journal of Critical Food Studies
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