When light falls on the fiber surface, it is absorbed, reflected, or refracted. These three phases of incident light determine, to a great extent, the behavior of lustre of major textile fibers. This article sheds light upon the behavior of some textile fibers, namely, polyethylene terephthalate, cotton, viscose, bamboo, tencel, and modal fibers, in terms of their reflectance percentages in the ultraviolet regions. Also, the direct and indirect band-gap energies of the used textile fibers were also investigated. The findings of this study revealed the significant differences among these used textile fibers in relation to their optical properties. Also, the chemical composition of the used textile fibers was easily identified using near-infrared spectroscopy. Finally, the findings of this study revealed that the used textile fibers are considered good insulators.
{"title":"Optical-related properties and characterization of some textile fibers using near-infrared spectroscopy","authors":"A. A. Almetwally, Heba M. Elfowaty","doi":"10.1515/aut-2023-0014","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1515/aut-2023-0014","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000 When light falls on the fiber surface, it is absorbed, reflected, or refracted. These three phases of incident light determine, to a great extent, the behavior of lustre of major textile fibers. This article sheds light upon the behavior of some textile fibers, namely, polyethylene terephthalate, cotton, viscose, bamboo, tencel, and modal fibers, in terms of their reflectance percentages in the ultraviolet regions. Also, the direct and indirect band-gap energies of the used textile fibers were also investigated. The findings of this study revealed the significant differences among these used textile fibers in relation to their optical properties. Also, the chemical composition of the used textile fibers was easily identified using near-infrared spectroscopy. Finally, the findings of this study revealed that the used textile fibers are considered good insulators.","PeriodicalId":49104,"journal":{"name":"Autex Research Journal","volume":"49 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.1,"publicationDate":"2024-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140526850","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
The flame-retardant cotton fabric used for welding protective clothing in the market exhibits insufficient melt hole resistance. We evaluated the stainless steel filament fabric for flame retardancy and melt hole resistance and found that it lacked sufficient comfort. A stainless steel filament and a cotton yarn were plied and twisted together and then woven following a set of specifications. The fabric was finished with a flame retardant, and its performance and flame retardancy were determined. The results indicate that the twist direction during ply twisting affects the fabric performance. Relative to the pure cotton fabric, the stainless steel filament/cotton composite fabric exhibits reduced comfort properties, such as moisture permeability and air permeability, but the mechanical properties and flame retardancy are improved. Ply twisting a stainless steel filament and a pure cotton yarn with an S twist presents certain advantages in enhancing the comprehensive performance of the fabric and exhibits potential for advancements in welding protective clothing.
市场上用于焊接防护服的阻燃棉织物的抗熔孔性能不足。我们对不锈钢长丝织物的阻燃性和抗熔孔性能进行了评估，发现它缺乏足够的舒适性。我们将不锈钢长丝和棉纱捻在一起，然后按照一定的规格进行编织。织物经阻燃剂整理后，其性能和阻燃性得到了测定。结果表明，合股加捻时的捻向会影响织物的性能。与纯棉织物相比，不锈钢丝/棉复合织物的透湿性和透气性等舒适性有所降低，但机械性能和阻燃性有所提高。将不锈钢长丝和纯棉纱以 S 型捻度进行合股，在提高织物的综合性能方面具有一定的优势，在焊接防护服方面具有发展潜力。
{"title":"Preparation and properties of stainless steel filament/pure cotton woven fabric","authors":"Taohai Yan, Yajing Shi, Jiankun Zheng, Luming Huang, Chaowang Lin, Zhi Chen","doi":"10.1515/aut-2023-0011","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1515/aut-2023-0011","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000 The flame-retardant cotton fabric used for welding protective clothing in the market exhibits insufficient melt hole resistance. We evaluated the stainless steel filament fabric for flame retardancy and melt hole resistance and found that it lacked sufficient comfort. A stainless steel filament and a cotton yarn were plied and twisted together and then woven following a set of specifications. The fabric was finished with a flame retardant, and its performance and flame retardancy were determined. The results indicate that the twist direction during ply twisting affects the fabric performance. Relative to the pure cotton fabric, the stainless steel filament/cotton composite fabric exhibits reduced comfort properties, such as moisture permeability and air permeability, but the mechanical properties and flame retardancy are improved. Ply twisting a stainless steel filament and a pure cotton yarn with an S twist presents certain advantages in enhancing the comprehensive performance of the fabric and exhibits potential for advancements in welding protective clothing.","PeriodicalId":49104,"journal":{"name":"Autex Research Journal","volume":"37 6","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.1,"publicationDate":"2024-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"139540327","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Ungku Nur Ainaa Ungku Mohd Aziz, Nor Dalila Nor Affandi, A. Harun, Mohd Azizi Abdul Rahman, Liliana Indrie, Noor Najmi Bonnia
Commercial disposable facemasks have lower breathability and may cause discomfort after hours of wearing them. Graphene oxide (GO) nanoparticles offer a significant opportunity to improve the breathability of facemask materials. Hence, the current study aimed to investigate the feasibility of incorporating GO in facemask materials. The GO was synthesized from recovered carbon of waste carbon tyre. In this study, two concentrations of GO (0.01 and 0.02%) were used to enhance the comfort properties of the polypropylene (PP) facemask fabric. The GO-coated PP facemask fabrics were characterized for scanning electron microscopy, energy dispersive X-ray, and Raman spectroscopy. The comfort properties were determined using air permeability, water vapour permeability, and moisture management test. Raman analysis revealed distinctive peaks corresponding to GO at approximately 1,300 and 1,500 cm−1. The GO displayed bumping pieces of particles and a textured surface, with a diameter ranging from 30 to 80 nm. The result of mercury porosimetry shows that the PP fabric coated with 0.02% of GO provided a higher pore diameter and porosity at approximately 21.31 µm and 82.79%, respectively. Due to its high pore diameter and porosity, the PP filter facemask fabric coated with 0.02% GO demonstrated enhanced air permeability, water vapour permeability, and moisture management. These results suggested that the sample possesses favourable breathability properties as compared to the sample without GO. By undertaking this study, GO synthesized from the waste carbon tyre was developed, which can enhance the breathability of fabric materials.
商用一次性面罩的透气性较差，佩戴数小时后可能会引起不适。氧化石墨烯（GO）纳米粒子为改善面罩材料的透气性提供了一个重要机会。因此，本研究旨在探讨在面罩材料中加入 GO 的可行性。GO 由废旧碳轮胎的回收碳合成。本研究使用了两种浓度的 GO（0.01% 和 0.02%）来提高聚丙烯（PP）面罩织物的舒适性。用扫描电子显微镜、能量色散 X 射线和拉曼光谱对涂覆了 GO 的聚丙烯面罩织物进行了表征。通过透气性、透湿性和湿度管理测试确定了面罩的舒适性。拉曼分析表明，在大约 1 300 和 1 500 cm-1 处存在与 GO 相对应的独特峰值。GO 显示出凹凸不平的颗粒和纹理表面，直径在 30 纳米到 80 纳米之间。汞孔测定法的结果表明，涂有 0.02% GO 的聚丙烯织物具有更高的孔径和孔隙率，分别约为 21.31 µm 和 82.79%。由于孔径和孔隙率较高，涂有 0.02% GO 的聚丙烯过滤面罩织物的透气性、水蒸气渗透性和湿度管理能力都得到了增强。这些结果表明，与不涂 GO 的样品相比，该样品具有良好的透气性能。通过这项研究，开发出了由废旧碳纤维轮胎合成的 GO，它可以增强织物材料的透气性。
{"title":"Facemask comfort enhancement with graphene oxide from recovered carbon waste tyres","authors":"Ungku Nur Ainaa Ungku Mohd Aziz, Nor Dalila Nor Affandi, A. Harun, Mohd Azizi Abdul Rahman, Liliana Indrie, Noor Najmi Bonnia","doi":"10.1515/aut-2023-0013","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1515/aut-2023-0013","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000 Commercial disposable facemasks have lower breathability and may cause discomfort after hours of wearing them. Graphene oxide (GO) nanoparticles offer a significant opportunity to improve the breathability of facemask materials. Hence, the current study aimed to investigate the feasibility of incorporating GO in facemask materials. The GO was synthesized from recovered carbon of waste carbon tyre. In this study, two concentrations of GO (0.01 and 0.02%) were used to enhance the comfort properties of the polypropylene (PP) facemask fabric. The GO-coated PP facemask fabrics were characterized for scanning electron microscopy, energy dispersive X-ray, and Raman spectroscopy. The comfort properties were determined using air permeability, water vapour permeability, and moisture management test. Raman analysis revealed distinctive peaks corresponding to GO at approximately 1,300 and 1,500 cm−1. The GO displayed bumping pieces of particles and a textured surface, with a diameter ranging from 30 to 80 nm. The result of mercury porosimetry shows that the PP fabric coated with 0.02% of GO provided a higher pore diameter and porosity at approximately 21.31 µm and 82.79%, respectively. Due to its high pore diameter and porosity, the PP filter facemask fabric coated with 0.02% GO demonstrated enhanced air permeability, water vapour permeability, and moisture management. These results suggested that the sample possesses favourable breathability properties as compared to the sample without GO. By undertaking this study, GO synthesized from the waste carbon tyre was developed, which can enhance the breathability of fabric materials.","PeriodicalId":49104,"journal":{"name":"Autex Research Journal","volume":"78 9","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.1,"publicationDate":"2024-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140525034","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Evrim Buyukaslan Oosterom, Fatma Baytar, Deniz Akdemir, Fatma Kalaoglu
The objectives of this study were to apply alternative machine learning (ML) algorithms to predict consumers’ garment fit satisfactions (real fit satisfaction [RFS]) and compare the efficiencies of these algorithms to predict RFS. Skirts made from different fabrics were used as test garments. Mechanical properties of the skirts’ fabrics were assigned as predictor variables to estimate RFS. Study participants’ virtual body models were created by using 3D body scanner and used for virtual fitting. Each participant physically tried on the skirts and evaluated the fit. Participants also viewed the skirt simulations on their avatars and evaluated the virtual fit, which represented participants’ virtual fit satisfactions (VFS). Random Forest (RF), support vector machine (SVM), and conditional tree (CT) algorithms were used to learn from the data to predict participants’ RFSs. The mean correlations between the predicted and observed RFS values in the validation sets were 0.74 (RF), 0.70 (SVM-linear kernel), 0.72 (SVM-radial kernel), and 0.55 (CT). According to the variable importance analysis, VFS had the highest importance among 35 predictor variables. ML is used mostly for sales forecasting and manufacturing purposes in the fashion industry. However, garment fit, which restrains consumers from shopping online, did not get enough attention in ML studies. Besides, the ML algorithms used in fashion and apparel studies are often genetic algorithms and neural networks; therefore, there is a need to test other algorithm types. In this study, we offered alternative ML algorithms (i.e., RF, SVM, and CT) to predict consumers’ garment fit satisfactions.
本研究的目的是应用其他机器学习（ML）算法来预测消费者的服装合身满意度（实际合身满意度 [RFS]），并比较这些算法预测 RFS 的效率。使用不同面料制作的裙子作为测试服装。裙子面料的机械性能被指定为估算 RFS 的预测变量。研究参与者的虚拟人体模型由三维人体扫描仪创建，并用于虚拟试穿。每位参与者都试穿了裙子，并对合身性进行了评估。参与者还可以在自己的化身上观看裙子的模拟效果，并对虚拟试穿效果进行评估，这代表了参与者的虚拟试穿满意度（VFS）。随机森林（RF）、支持向量机（SVM）和条件树（CT）算法被用来从数据中学习预测参与者的RFS。在验证集中，预测值与观察到的 RFS 值之间的平均相关性分别为 0.74（RF）、0.70（SVM 线性核）、0.72（SVM 径向核）和 0.55（CT）。根据变量重要性分析，在 35 个预测变量中，VFS 的重要性最高。ML 主要用于时装业的销售预测和生产目的。然而，服装合身度这一制约消费者网购的因素在 ML 研究中并未得到足够重视。此外，时尚和服装研究中使用的 ML 算法通常是遗传算法和神经网络，因此有必要测试其他类型的算法。在本研究中，我们提供了其他 ML 算法（即 RF、SVM 和 CT）来预测消费者的服装合身满意度。
{"title":"Predicting consumers’ garment fit satisfactions by using machine learning","authors":"Evrim Buyukaslan Oosterom, Fatma Baytar, Deniz Akdemir, Fatma Kalaoglu","doi":"10.1515/aut-2023-0016","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1515/aut-2023-0016","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000 The objectives of this study were to apply alternative machine learning (ML) algorithms to predict consumers’ garment fit satisfactions (real fit satisfaction [RFS]) and compare the efficiencies of these algorithms to predict RFS. Skirts made from different fabrics were used as test garments. Mechanical properties of the skirts’ fabrics were assigned as predictor variables to estimate RFS. Study participants’ virtual body models were created by using 3D body scanner and used for virtual fitting. Each participant physically tried on the skirts and evaluated the fit. Participants also viewed the skirt simulations on their avatars and evaluated the virtual fit, which represented participants’ virtual fit satisfactions (VFS). Random Forest (RF), support vector machine (SVM), and conditional tree (CT) algorithms were used to learn from the data to predict participants’ RFSs. The mean correlations between the predicted and observed RFS values in the validation sets were 0.74 (RF), 0.70 (SVM-linear kernel), 0.72 (SVM-radial kernel), and 0.55 (CT). According to the variable importance analysis, VFS had the highest importance among 35 predictor variables. ML is used mostly for sales forecasting and manufacturing purposes in the fashion industry. However, garment fit, which restrains consumers from shopping online, did not get enough attention in ML studies. Besides, the ML algorithms used in fashion and apparel studies are often genetic algorithms and neural networks; therefore, there is a need to test other algorithm types. In this study, we offered alternative ML algorithms (i.e., RF, SVM, and CT) to predict consumers’ garment fit satisfactions.","PeriodicalId":49104,"journal":{"name":"Autex Research Journal","volume":"24 8","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.1,"publicationDate":"2024-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140524641","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Yu Zhao, Feng Zhou, Yan Zhao, Yunding Zou, Xixi Wei
Abstract Apparel has the potential to influence the external expression of wearer’s emotional state and can even empower them, making patients’ hospital wearing a crucial factor in their emotional experience and medical treatment. This study aims to investigate the emotional factors that drive patients’ behavioral responses to hospital gowns using the pleasure–arousal–dominance (PAD) model. With the survey conduction and data analysis, the results identified that the color and silhouette of hospital gowns lead to the emotional experience of arousal, while the structure leads to the emotional experience of dominance, which in turn brings patients a high sense of pleasure and further affect their acceptance and willingness to continue wearing hospital gowns. Based on the results of the research, new hospital gowns were designed and validated, which further confirmed the relationship between the attributes of hospital gowns and emotions of patients. Thus, by extending the PAD model to the context of patients’ use of hospital gowns, this study provides designers with a basis for creating emotionally driven atmosphere factors in the development of hospital gowns for the Chinese market that improve acceptance and continuation of hospital gowns, making a valuable contribution to knowledge in this field.
摘要 服装有可能影响穿着者情绪状态的外在表现，甚至可以赋予他们力量，因此患者的住院服成为影响其情绪体验和医疗的关键因素。本研究旨在利用愉悦-唤醒-支配（PAD）模型，研究驱动患者对住院服行为反应的情感因素。通过调查和数据分析，结果发现病号服的颜色和轮廓会导致唤醒的情感体验，而结构则会导致支配的情感体验，进而给患者带来高度的愉悦感，并进一步影响他们对继续穿着病号服的接受度和意愿。根据研究结果设计并验证了新款病号服，进一步证实了病号服属性与患者情绪之间的关系。因此，通过将 PAD 模型扩展到患者使用病号服的情境中，本研究为设计师在为中国市场开发病号服时创造情感驱动的氛围因素提供了依据，从而提高了病号服的接受度和持续性，为这一领域的知识做出了有价值的贡献。
{"title":"Development of an emotional response model for hospital gown design using structural equation modeling","authors":"Yu Zhao, Feng Zhou, Yan Zhao, Yunding Zou, Xixi Wei","doi":"10.1515/aut-2023-0010","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1515/aut-2023-0010","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Apparel has the potential to influence the external expression of wearer’s emotional state and can even empower them, making patients’ hospital wearing a crucial factor in their emotional experience and medical treatment. This study aims to investigate the emotional factors that drive patients’ behavioral responses to hospital gowns using the pleasure–arousal–dominance (PAD) model. With the survey conduction and data analysis, the results identified that the color and silhouette of hospital gowns lead to the emotional experience of arousal, while the structure leads to the emotional experience of dominance, which in turn brings patients a high sense of pleasure and further affect their acceptance and willingness to continue wearing hospital gowns. Based on the results of the research, new hospital gowns were designed and validated, which further confirmed the relationship between the attributes of hospital gowns and emotions of patients. Thus, by extending the PAD model to the context of patients’ use of hospital gowns, this study provides designers with a basis for creating emotionally driven atmosphere factors in the development of hospital gowns for the Chinese market that improve acceptance and continuation of hospital gowns, making a valuable contribution to knowledge in this field.","PeriodicalId":49104,"journal":{"name":"Autex Research Journal","volume":"50 10","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.1,"publicationDate":"2024-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"139538985","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
With the advancement of near-infrared (NIR) spectroscopy and chemometrics technology, non-destructive qualitative testing has been widely applied in many fields. Both wool and cashmere are keratin protein fibers with many similarities in tissue structure, making it very difficult to distinguish between them. In order to achieve rapid and non-destructive identification of wool and cashmere, an improved linear discriminant analysis (ILDA) algorithm combined with NIR spectroscopy technology is proposed. The proposed method can also be used for the classification of extremely similar fibers and substances, with better classification performance. First, the spectral data of wool and cashmere are collected using an NIR spectrometer so as to reduce the influence of noise in the spectra; data preprocessing methods are used to correct the collected fiber spectra. Then, principal component analysis (PCA), linear discriminant analysis (LDA), and ILDA are used to extract the characteristic variables from the spectral data. Finally, the extracted characteristic variables are input into the machine learning algorithm K-nearest neighbor (K-NN) classifier. In the experimental stage, three dimensionality reduction methods (PCA, LDA, and ILDA) are evaluated using the K-NN classification model. The fiber classification accuracy can reach 97% when using the ILDA method for dimensionality reduction. The results show that the proposed method is effective for the qualitative detection of different types of wool and cashmere fibers.
{"title":"Non-destructive identification of wool and cashmere fibers based on improved LDA using NIR spectroscopy","authors":"Xin Chen, Qingle Lan, Yaolin Zhu","doi":"10.1515/aut-2023-0017","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1515/aut-2023-0017","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000 With the advancement of near-infrared (NIR) spectroscopy and chemometrics technology, non-destructive qualitative testing has been widely applied in many fields. Both wool and cashmere are keratin protein fibers with many similarities in tissue structure, making it very difficult to distinguish between them. In order to achieve rapid and non-destructive identification of wool and cashmere, an improved linear discriminant analysis (ILDA) algorithm combined with NIR spectroscopy technology is proposed. The proposed method can also be used for the classification of extremely similar fibers and substances, with better classification performance. First, the spectral data of wool and cashmere are collected using an NIR spectrometer so as to reduce the influence of noise in the spectra; data preprocessing methods are used to correct the collected fiber spectra. Then, principal component analysis (PCA), linear discriminant analysis (LDA), and ILDA are used to extract the characteristic variables from the spectral data. Finally, the extracted characteristic variables are input into the machine learning algorithm K-nearest neighbor (K-NN) classifier. In the experimental stage, three dimensionality reduction methods (PCA, LDA, and ILDA) are evaluated using the K-NN classification model. The fiber classification accuracy can reach 97% when using the ILDA method for dimensionality reduction. The results show that the proposed method is effective for the qualitative detection of different types of wool and cashmere fibers.","PeriodicalId":49104,"journal":{"name":"Autex Research Journal","volume":"70 3","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.1,"publicationDate":"2024-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140525099","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
With dry weather and low humidity in autumn and winter, human skin is usually prone to dryness, even leading to itchy skin and other problems, so it is important to do a good job of skin moisturizing. The fabrics produced by using protein fiber have a certain moisturizing effect on human skin. Five types of yarn including collagen fiber, cheese protein fiber, silkworm pupa protein fiber, cashmere protein fiber, and viscose are chosen as veil materials, while nylon/spandex composite fiber is chosen as inner yarn material. Three fabric structures including the weft plain stitch, 1 + 1 mock rib, and 1 + 3 mock rib are selected for the study. Based on the full factorial experimental design method, 15 samples of seamless knitted fabrics are produced using a circular knitting machine. In order to investigate the effects of different veil materials and fabric structure of seamless knitted fabric on skin moisturizing performance, the skin moisture content test and the trans-epidermal water loss test were carried out before and after the fabric samples were wrapped around the skin of 20 participants. The results show that both the veil materials and the fabric structure have significant effects on the skin moisture content. The use of collagen yarn as the veil material and 1 + 1 mock rib as the fabric structure results in better moisturizing effects on human skin. In terms of the trans-epidermal water loss test, the fabric structure has significant effects on the results, while the veil material has no significant effect on it. However, the value of trans-epidermal water loss of the fabric with protein yarn is smaller than that of the fabric with ordinary viscose. Therefore, using cheese protein yarn as the veil material and 1 + 1 mock rib as the fabric structure results in a smaller trans-epidermal water loss value.
{"title":"Study on the relationship between structure and moisturizing performance of seamless knitted fabrics of protein fibers for autumn and winter","authors":"Yiru Hu, Zimin Jin, Qiuyu Wang, Chengxiao Fang, Yuqiang Sun, Xiaofeng Wen","doi":"10.1515/aut-2023-0018","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1515/aut-2023-0018","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000 With dry weather and low humidity in autumn and winter, human skin is usually prone to dryness, even leading to itchy skin and other problems, so it is important to do a good job of skin moisturizing. The fabrics produced by using protein fiber have a certain moisturizing effect on human skin. Five types of yarn including collagen fiber, cheese protein fiber, silkworm pupa protein fiber, cashmere protein fiber, and viscose are chosen as veil materials, while nylon/spandex composite fiber is chosen as inner yarn material. Three fabric structures including the weft plain stitch, 1 + 1 mock rib, and 1 + 3 mock rib are selected for the study. Based on the full factorial experimental design method, 15 samples of seamless knitted fabrics are produced using a circular knitting machine. In order to investigate the effects of different veil materials and fabric structure of seamless knitted fabric on skin moisturizing performance, the skin moisture content test and the trans-epidermal water loss test were carried out before and after the fabric samples were wrapped around the skin of 20 participants. The results show that both the veil materials and the fabric structure have significant effects on the skin moisture content. The use of collagen yarn as the veil material and 1 + 1 mock rib as the fabric structure results in better moisturizing effects on human skin. In terms of the trans-epidermal water loss test, the fabric structure has significant effects on the results, while the veil material has no significant effect on it. However, the value of trans-epidermal water loss of the fabric with protein yarn is smaller than that of the fabric with ordinary viscose. Therefore, using cheese protein yarn as the veil material and 1 + 1 mock rib as the fabric structure results in a smaller trans-epidermal water loss value.","PeriodicalId":49104,"journal":{"name":"Autex Research Journal","volume":"38 22","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.1,"publicationDate":"2024-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140518067","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
In the digital age, virtual simulation images have become an important communication form of Chinese traditional Yue Opera costumes and their culture. Focusing on the lay viewers’ aesthetic experience, we collected 16 subjective evaluations, including favorites of basic design elements, semantic impressions, and high-level aesthetic experience, of 257 participants on 5 virtual simulation pictures of Yue Opera costumes for different characters and used network analysis to explore the possible relationship of the variables. The inferred networks showed that the archetypal aesthetic was more relevant to the costume design elements, emotions, interests, and the sense of high level. The conspicuous clothing, understanding of creative intent, and the desire for cultural knowledge were key “bridges” in the aesthetic process. Although the aesthetic network of each costume varied partially based on character differences, it showed more similarities overall. On the basis of the findings, we discuss the possible theoretical basis of the networks and make practical suggestions for the virtual dissemination of Yue Opera costumes.
{"title":"Network modeling of aesthetic effect for Chinese Yue Opera costume simulation images","authors":"Han Yanna, Yicheng Jiang, Zheng Xia","doi":"10.1515/aut-2023-0015","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1515/aut-2023-0015","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000 In the digital age, virtual simulation images have become an important communication form of Chinese traditional Yue Opera costumes and their culture. Focusing on the lay viewers’ aesthetic experience, we collected 16 subjective evaluations, including favorites of basic design elements, semantic impressions, and high-level aesthetic experience, of 257 participants on 5 virtual simulation pictures of Yue Opera costumes for different characters and used network analysis to explore the possible relationship of the variables. The inferred networks showed that the archetypal aesthetic was more relevant to the costume design elements, emotions, interests, and the sense of high level. The conspicuous clothing, understanding of creative intent, and the desire for cultural knowledge were key “bridges” in the aesthetic process. Although the aesthetic network of each costume varied partially based on character differences, it showed more similarities overall. On the basis of the findings, we discuss the possible theoretical basis of the networks and make practical suggestions for the virtual dissemination of Yue Opera costumes.","PeriodicalId":49104,"journal":{"name":"Autex Research Journal","volume":"32 2","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.1,"publicationDate":"2024-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140516349","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
To develop antibacterial durability and low yellowing of sports underwear fabric, silver ion polyurethane filaments (Ag+ PUFs) were used as base yarn, and polyamide filaments were used as face yarn. Nine fabric samples with different Ag+ PUF contents (7, 8, 9, 17, 18, and 19%) were prepared. The fabrics were dyed in light, medium, and dark pink. Ag+ PUF was characterized by scanning electron microscopes for the morphology. Antibacterial properties and mechanical properties of Ag+ PUF were measured. The antibacterial durability, yellowing, elastic recovery, air, and moisture permeability were tested, and fuzzy mathematics was used for comprehensive evaluation. The results demonstrated that Ag+ PUF has good antibacterial properties and mechanical properties. The inhibition rates of the fabric against Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus were 100%. When Ag+ PUF content was 18 and 19%, the antibacterial rates of medium pink fabrics both E. coli and S. aureus were 100% after laundering 30 times. The yellowing of the fabric before dyeing was the lowest when Ag+ PUF content was 7%. Compared with before dyeing, the yellowing of the fabric decreased by 19.13 % after dyeing. The comprehensive performance of 3# fabric is the best, and it has antibacterial persistence and low yellowing.
{"title":"Antibacterial and yellowing performances of sports underwear fabric with polyamide/silver ion polyurethane filaments","authors":"Tingting Zhu, Ailan Wan","doi":"10.1515/aut-2023-0020","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1515/aut-2023-0020","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000 To develop antibacterial durability and low yellowing of sports underwear fabric, silver ion polyurethane filaments (Ag+ PUFs) were used as base yarn, and polyamide filaments were used as face yarn. Nine fabric samples with different Ag+ PUF contents (7, 8, 9, 17, 18, and 19%) were prepared. The fabrics were dyed in light, medium, and dark pink. Ag+ PUF was characterized by scanning electron microscopes for the morphology. Antibacterial properties and mechanical properties of Ag+ PUF were measured. The antibacterial durability, yellowing, elastic recovery, air, and moisture permeability were tested, and fuzzy mathematics was used for comprehensive evaluation. The results demonstrated that Ag+ PUF has good antibacterial properties and mechanical properties. The inhibition rates of the fabric against Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus were 100%. When Ag+ PUF content was 18 and 19%, the antibacterial rates of medium pink fabrics both E. coli and S. aureus were 100% after laundering 30 times. The yellowing of the fabric before dyeing was the lowest when Ag+ PUF content was 7%. Compared with before dyeing, the yellowing of the fabric decreased by 19.13 % after dyeing. The comprehensive performance of 3# fabric is the best, and it has antibacterial persistence and low yellowing.","PeriodicalId":49104,"journal":{"name":"Autex Research Journal","volume":"89 3-4","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.1,"publicationDate":"2024-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140523681","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
M. Lasoń-Rydel, Katarzyna Sieczyńska, D. Gendaszewska, K. Ławińska, Tomasz P. Olejnik
The policy of sustainable development, the need to save natural environmental resources, and the use of waste as raw materials in new production processes allow the use of enzymes in many industries. Enzymatic tanning and chrome tanning are two different methods used in the leather industry to transform raw hides into a durable and usable material. Enzymatic tanning uses natural enzymes that are biodegradable and environmentally friendly. Additionally, enzymatic tanning requires less water and generates less waste than chrome tanning. Moreover, enzymatic tanning can result in softer and more flexible leather with better uniformity. Enzymes selectively break down collagen fibers, resulting in a more even tanning and a consistent leather product. The use of combined enzymatic technologies with non-obvious leather finishing methodologies in tanning is forced by European Union regulations limiting the use of hazardous substances and generating significant amounts of corrosive wastewater for the environment. However, tanning with enzymes is not a perfect process; therefore, this work presents the advantages and disadvantages of tanning with enzymes and describes new technological trends in the tanning industry.
{"title":"Use of enzymatic processes in the tanning of leather materials","authors":"M. Lasoń-Rydel, Katarzyna Sieczyńska, D. Gendaszewska, K. Ławińska, Tomasz P. Olejnik","doi":"10.1515/aut-2023-0012","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1515/aut-2023-0012","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000 The policy of sustainable development, the need to save natural environmental resources, and the use of waste as raw materials in new production processes allow the use of enzymes in many industries. Enzymatic tanning and chrome tanning are two different methods used in the leather industry to transform raw hides into a durable and usable material. Enzymatic tanning uses natural enzymes that are biodegradable and environmentally friendly. Additionally, enzymatic tanning requires less water and generates less waste than chrome tanning. Moreover, enzymatic tanning can result in softer and more flexible leather with better uniformity. Enzymes selectively break down collagen fibers, resulting in a more even tanning and a consistent leather product. The use of combined enzymatic technologies with non-obvious leather finishing methodologies in tanning is forced by European Union regulations limiting the use of hazardous substances and generating significant amounts of corrosive wastewater for the environment. However, tanning with enzymes is not a perfect process; therefore, this work presents the advantages and disadvantages of tanning with enzymes and describes new technological trends in the tanning industry.","PeriodicalId":49104,"journal":{"name":"Autex Research Journal","volume":"18 2","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.1,"publicationDate":"2024-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140524227","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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