Pub Date : 2013-06-14DOI: 10.1080/00405000.2012.743648
Liu Xinjin, Su Xuzhong
Yarn torque is one of the most important indexes of yarn quality, which is determined on the mechanical state of the constituent fibers and their configuration in the yarn. The fiber tension within a yarn was proposed to be the most influential factor governing the magnitude of yarn torque by Bennett and Postle. Therefore, the research on Sirospun yarn torque is investigated by analyzing the fiber tension at spinning triangle in this paper. Firstly, theoretical models of the fiber tension distributions at primary and final spinning triangles are presented, and corresponding residual torque within a yarn due to the fiber tension is given. The relationships between the yarn torque and the spinning triangle parameters are analyzed theoretically. Secondly, as an application of the proposed method, a modified Sirospun spinning system with an airflow false twisting device which can change spinning triangle parameters are investigated, and the properties of spun yarns produced by the modified system are evaluate...
{"title":"Research on Sirospun yarn torque using airflow false twisting device","authors":"Liu Xinjin, Su Xuzhong","doi":"10.1080/00405000.2012.743648","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405000.2012.743648","url":null,"abstract":"Yarn torque is one of the most important indexes of yarn quality, which is determined on the mechanical state of the constituent fibers and their configuration in the yarn. The fiber tension within a yarn was proposed to be the most influential factor governing the magnitude of yarn torque by Bennett and Postle. Therefore, the research on Sirospun yarn torque is investigated by analyzing the fiber tension at spinning triangle in this paper. Firstly, theoretical models of the fiber tension distributions at primary and final spinning triangles are presented, and corresponding residual torque within a yarn due to the fiber tension is given. The relationships between the yarn torque and the spinning triangle parameters are analyzed theoretically. Secondly, as an application of the proposed method, a modified Sirospun spinning system with an airflow false twisting device which can change spinning triangle parameters are investigated, and the properties of spun yarns produced by the modified system are evaluate...","PeriodicalId":49978,"journal":{"name":"Journal of the Textile Institute","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.7,"publicationDate":"2013-06-14","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00405000.2012.743648","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"58870987","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2012-07-01DOI: 10.1080/00405000.2011.603509
Belkıs ZERVENT ÜNAL
An experimental study was carried out to determine the effects of the selected sewing parameters in denim fabric on seam strength, and the results were analyzed statistically and graphically. Subsequently, a regression analysis was performed on data obtained in the experiments in order to create equipments to predict weft and warp seam strengths before production and consequently equipments with high validity were obtained.
{"title":"The prediction of seam strength of denim fabrics with mathematical equations","authors":"Belkıs ZERVENT ÜNAL","doi":"10.1080/00405000.2011.603509","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405000.2011.603509","url":null,"abstract":"An experimental study was carried out to determine the effects of the selected sewing parameters in denim fabric on seam strength, and the results were analyzed statistically and graphically. Subsequently, a regression analysis was performed on data obtained in the experiments in order to create equipments to predict weft and warp seam strengths before production and consequently equipments with high validity were obtained.","PeriodicalId":49978,"journal":{"name":"Journal of the Textile Institute","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.7,"publicationDate":"2012-07-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00405000.2011.603509","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"58870974","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2011-05-01DOI: 10.1080/00405000.2010.482347
R. Tuğrul Oğulata, Serin Mavruz Mezarcioz
Air permeability is often used in evaluating and comparing the “breathability” of various fabrics for end uses such as raincoats, tents, and uniform shirtings. This paper focuses on the optimization of yarn and fabric factors affecting the air permeability of knitted fabrics. For this purpose, the Taguchi experimental design technique, analysis of variance (ANOVA), and signal‐to‐noise (S/N) ratio were used. Instead of 27 different fabric configurations, with respect to full factorial design, only nine fabric configurations with respect to Taguchi’s L9 orthogonal design were knitted and tested. As a result of these experiments, the fabric configuration satisfying the maximum air permeability value was determined, which showed considerable improvement in the S/N ratio as compared with the initial design.
{"title":"Optimization of air permeability of knitted fabrics with the Taguchi approach","authors":"R. Tuğrul Oğulata, Serin Mavruz Mezarcioz","doi":"10.1080/00405000.2010.482347","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405000.2010.482347","url":null,"abstract":"Air permeability is often used in evaluating and comparing the “breathability” of various fabrics for end uses such as raincoats, tents, and uniform shirtings. This paper focuses on the optimization of yarn and fabric factors affecting the air permeability of knitted fabrics. For this purpose, the Taguchi experimental design technique, analysis of variance (ANOVA), and signal‐to‐noise (S/N) ratio were used. Instead of 27 different fabric configurations, with respect to full factorial design, only nine fabric configurations with respect to Taguchi’s L9 orthogonal design were knitted and tested. As a result of these experiments, the fabric configuration satisfying the maximum air permeability value was determined, which showed considerable improvement in the S/N ratio as compared with the initial design.","PeriodicalId":49978,"journal":{"name":"Journal of the Textile Institute","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.7,"publicationDate":"2011-05-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00405000.2010.482347","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"58871422","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2011-02-01DOI: 10.1080/00405000903561430
Vinay Kumar Midha
The properties of needled fabrics depend on the nature of component fibers and the manner in which fibers are arranged in the structure. Fiber properties along with the various machine and web parameters contribute to the structure that emerges from the needling operation. In this paper, the effect of machine parameters such as depth of needle penetration and punch density on fabric stiffness and abrasion resistance of needled blankets has been studied. The effect of calendering and sandwiching hollow polyester fibers between two layers of fine polyester fibers on the abrasion resistance and fabric stiffness has also been studied. It was observed that fabric stiffness first increases and then decreases as the depth of needle penetration increases. Increase in punch density leads to a decrease in fabric stiffness only at higher levels of depth of penetration due to fiber rupture. Calendering improves the fabric abrasion resistance properties but fabric stiffness also increases. Sandwiching of hollow polyester fibers between the two layers of fine denier polyester fibers improves the abrasion resistance without increasing the fabric stiffness.
{"title":"Study of stiffness and abrasion resistance of needle‐punched nonwoven blankets","authors":"Vinay Kumar Midha","doi":"10.1080/00405000903561430","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405000903561430","url":null,"abstract":"The properties of needled fabrics depend on the nature of component fibers and the manner in which fibers are arranged in the structure. Fiber properties along with the various machine and web parameters contribute to the structure that emerges from the needling operation. In this paper, the effect of machine parameters such as depth of needle penetration and punch density on fabric stiffness and abrasion resistance of needled blankets has been studied. The effect of calendering and sandwiching hollow polyester fibers between two layers of fine polyester fibers on the abrasion resistance and fabric stiffness has also been studied. It was observed that fabric stiffness first increases and then decreases as the depth of needle penetration increases. Increase in punch density leads to a decrease in fabric stiffness only at higher levels of depth of penetration due to fiber rupture. Calendering improves the fabric abrasion resistance properties but fabric stiffness also increases. Sandwiching of hollow polyester fibers between the two layers of fine denier polyester fibers improves the abrasion resistance without increasing the fabric stiffness.","PeriodicalId":49978,"journal":{"name":"Journal of the Textile Institute","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.7,"publicationDate":"2011-02-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00405000903561430","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"58871470","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2010-04-12DOI: 10.1080/00405000802440066
K. Bilisik †
Multiaxis 3D-woven carbon preforms are fabricated using prototyped multiaxis weaving. The fabricated preform has structural instability at thickness. For this reason, the structural parameter and processing parameters were evaluated to make uniform preform and to understand the preform-process relations. The important process parameters are identified and described to enhance the preform and unit cell architecture. Also, preform structural parameters are analyzed in terms of fiber cross-section and fiber tow size, bias angle, and fiber waviness. The useful recommendation is also to make uniform multiaxis 3D-woven preform for composites.
{"title":"Dimensional stability of multiaxis 3D-woven carbon preforms","authors":"K. Bilisik †","doi":"10.1080/00405000802440066","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405000802440066","url":null,"abstract":"Multiaxis 3D-woven carbon preforms are fabricated using prototyped multiaxis weaving. The fabricated preform has structural instability at thickness. For this reason, the structural parameter and processing parameters were evaluated to make uniform preform and to understand the preform-process relations. The important process parameters are identified and described to enhance the preform and unit cell architecture. Also, preform structural parameters are analyzed in terms of fiber cross-section and fiber tow size, bias angle, and fiber waviness. The useful recommendation is also to make uniform multiaxis 3D-woven preform for composites.","PeriodicalId":49978,"journal":{"name":"Journal of the Textile Institute","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.7,"publicationDate":"2010-04-12","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00405000802440066","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"58871952","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2007-10-19DOI: 10.1080/00405000701502446
M. Hann, B. Thomas
Abstract The systematic colouring of plane patterns results in a finite number of combinations, when using a given number of colours. This paper introduces a range of concepts associated with the perfect colouring of plane patterns, and presents illustrative examples of 23 three-colour-counterchange possibilities.
{"title":"Beyond black and white: A note concerning three-colour-counterchange patterns","authors":"M. Hann, B. Thomas","doi":"10.1080/00405000701502446","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405000701502446","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract The systematic colouring of plane patterns results in a finite number of combinations, when using a given number of colours. This paper introduces a range of concepts associated with the perfect colouring of plane patterns, and presents illustrative examples of 23 three-colour-counterchange possibilities.","PeriodicalId":49978,"journal":{"name":"Journal of the Textile Institute","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.7,"publicationDate":"2007-10-19","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00405000701502446","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"58871932","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 1999-01-01DOI: 10.1080/00405009908658689
A. A. Gharehaghaji, N. Johnson, Xungai Wang
An investigation is reported in which minute cracks were initiated on the surface of wool fibres by pressing a blade indentor to seven different penetration depths in a controlled manner. The breaking strength of the damaged fibre was then measured with a sensitive transducer system. The reduction in fibre breaking load caused by indenting these fibres to different penetration depths demonstrates the weakening effect of cracks and compressional deformations and supports previous findings showing that microdamage caused by processing can weaken wool fibres.
{"title":"Wool Fibre Microdamage Caused by Opening Processes. Part V: The Effect of Compressive Damage on Fibre Strength","authors":"A. A. Gharehaghaji, N. Johnson, Xungai Wang","doi":"10.1080/00405009908658689","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405009908658689","url":null,"abstract":"An investigation is reported in which minute cracks were initiated on the surface of wool fibres by pressing a blade indentor to seven different penetration depths in a controlled manner. The breaking strength of the damaged fibre was then measured with a sensitive transducer system. The reduction in fibre breaking load caused by indenting these fibres to different penetration depths demonstrates the weakening effect of cracks and compressional deformations and supports previous findings showing that microdamage caused by processing can weaken wool fibres.","PeriodicalId":49978,"journal":{"name":"Journal of the Textile Institute","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.7,"publicationDate":"1999-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00405009908658689","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"58905929","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 1999-01-01DOI: 10.1080/00405009908658693
Xiaogang Chen, M. Spola, J. Payá, P. M. Sellabona
3D woven structures provide attractive features for use as composite reinforcements, such as the ability to tailor their performance by altering their structural parameters. This paper reports on experimental studies on the structure and mechanical properties of two important types of 3D woven structure, the multi-layer structure and the angle-interlock structure, and it demonstrates some relations between the structural parameters and the mechanical properties.
{"title":"Experimental Studies on the Structure and Mechanical Properties of Multi-layer and Angle-interlock Woven Structures","authors":"Xiaogang Chen, M. Spola, J. Payá, P. M. Sellabona","doi":"10.1080/00405009908658693","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405009908658693","url":null,"abstract":"3D woven structures provide attractive features for use as composite reinforcements, such as the ability to tailor their performance by altering their structural parameters. This paper reports on experimental studies on the structure and mechanical properties of two important types of 3D woven structure, the multi-layer structure and the angle-interlock structure, and it demonstrates some relations between the structural parameters and the mechanical properties.","PeriodicalId":49978,"journal":{"name":"Journal of the Textile Institute","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.7,"publicationDate":"1999-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00405009908658693","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"58906003","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 1999-01-01DOI: 10.1080/00405009908659479
S. Volooj, C. Carr, R. Mitchell, J. Vickerman
ToF-SIMS studies have demonstrated that the 18-methyleicosanoic acid (18-MEA) bound to the cashmere fibre surface via a thioester linkage, is removed by hydrogen peroxide bleaching. The level of 18-MEA loss was related to the severity of oxidative attack. The adsorption of a wetting agent, nonyl phenol ethoxylate (NPEO-8), onto the fibre occurs during bleaching, with preferential adsorption of the more hydrophobic, short ethoxymer species observed. Characterization of a protein softener indicated a complex ToF-SIMS spectrum, with the surface analysis data agreeing with the wet chemical bulk analysis. Surface analysis of the ‘softened’ cashmere indicated that the cationic alkyl protein softeners are highly substantive and that enrichment of the more hydrophobic softener components has occurred. A distribution model for the cationic protein softener over the anionic fibre surface has been proposed.
{"title":"Time-of-Flight Secondary Ion Mass Spectrometry (ToF-SIMS) Analysis of the Bleaching of Cashmere Fibres, and the Application of Cationic Alkyl Protein Softeners","authors":"S. Volooj, C. Carr, R. Mitchell, J. Vickerman","doi":"10.1080/00405009908659479","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405009908659479","url":null,"abstract":"ToF-SIMS studies have demonstrated that the 18-methyleicosanoic acid (18-MEA) bound to the cashmere fibre surface via a thioester linkage, is removed by hydrogen peroxide bleaching. The level of 18-MEA loss was related to the severity of oxidative attack. The adsorption of a wetting agent, nonyl phenol ethoxylate (NPEO-8), onto the fibre occurs during bleaching, with preferential adsorption of the more hydrophobic, short ethoxymer species observed. Characterization of a protein softener indicated a complex ToF-SIMS spectrum, with the surface analysis data agreeing with the wet chemical bulk analysis. Surface analysis of the ‘softened’ cashmere indicated that the cationic alkyl protein softeners are highly substantive and that enrichment of the more hydrophobic softener components has occurred. A distribution model for the cationic protein softener over the anionic fibre surface has been proposed.","PeriodicalId":49978,"journal":{"name":"Journal of the Textile Institute","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.7,"publicationDate":"1999-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00405009908659479","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"58906030","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 1999-01-01DOI: 10.1080/00405009908690632
Bugao Xu, S. Sreenivasan
This paper reports the development of an automated, accurate system for 3-D body imaging and measurement. The system consists of a digital camera, a rotary stage, a lighting booth, and the software for 3-D body image analysis. The body dimensions that can be measured using this system include the length of a body surface curve (e.g. apex and crotch), the body circumference at a given height (e.g. bust and waist), and other dimensions useful for apparel pattern design. The paper also presents a multi-view algorithm for depth recovery, and the main procedures for body surface modeling based on the theory of differential geometry.
{"title":"A 3-D Body Imaging and Measurement System for Apparel Customization","authors":"Bugao Xu, S. Sreenivasan","doi":"10.1080/00405009908690632","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405009908690632","url":null,"abstract":"This paper reports the development of an automated, accurate system for 3-D body imaging and measurement. The system consists of a digital camera, a rotary stage, a lighting booth, and the software for 3-D body image analysis. The body dimensions that can be measured using this system include the length of a body surface curve (e.g. apex and crotch), the body circumference at a given height (e.g. bust and waist), and other dimensions useful for apparel pattern design. The paper also presents a multi-view algorithm for depth recovery, and the main procedures for body surface modeling based on the theory of differential geometry.","PeriodicalId":49978,"journal":{"name":"Journal of the Textile Institute","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":1.7,"publicationDate":"1999-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00405009908690632","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"58906327","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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