Pub Date : 2013-10-16DOI: 10.1080/00405000.2013.796084
Nicole Njeugna, L. Schacher, D. Adolphe, R. Dupuis, E. Aubry, Jean-Baptiste Schaffhauser, Patrick Strehle, M. Messaoud
The question of the recycling of the polyurethane (PU) foam, especially in the automotive industry represents one of the main technology thrust and challenge of the car manufacturers and the Original Equipment Manufacturers’ (OEM) since 2000. Indeed, it is nowadays necessary for car industry to promote ecological methods of development in regard to new consumer sensibility. New textile products present the best alternative solutions to answer this issue of replacement of the PU foam. Based on this fact, a new three-dimensional (3D) fibrous structure made of polyester (PET) material has been developed in order to replace PU foam in automotive trim. These new manufactured 3D fibrous structures are laminated with needle-punched and spun-bonded sheets. The sheets are made of 100% PET, in order to obtain a mono component product. Characterization of physical and mechanical properties of these new 3D fibrous structures, testing methods have to be developed. Based on the automotive specifications, a methodology has been set up to test the compression behavior of these new products. In order to answer the issue of replacement, some PU foam products have also been characterized, and comparisons with alternative products have been conducted. The results of this study show interesting properties of the new 3D fibrous structure in terms of compression behavior when compared to the PU foam.
{"title":"Physical and compressional characteristics of a novel 3D fibrous structure – application in comparison between PU foam and 3D fibrous structure","authors":"Nicole Njeugna, L. Schacher, D. Adolphe, R. Dupuis, E. Aubry, Jean-Baptiste Schaffhauser, Patrick Strehle, M. Messaoud","doi":"10.1080/00405000.2013.796084","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405000.2013.796084","url":null,"abstract":"The question of the recycling of the polyurethane (PU) foam, especially in the automotive industry represents one of the main technology thrust and challenge of the car manufacturers and the Original Equipment Manufacturers’ (OEM) since 2000. Indeed, it is nowadays necessary for car industry to promote ecological methods of development in regard to new consumer sensibility. New textile products present the best alternative solutions to answer this issue of replacement of the PU foam. Based on this fact, a new three-dimensional (3D) fibrous structure made of polyester (PET) material has been developed in order to replace PU foam in automotive trim. These new manufactured 3D fibrous structures are laminated with needle-punched and spun-bonded sheets. The sheets are made of 100% PET, in order to obtain a mono component product. Characterization of physical and mechanical properties of these new 3D fibrous structures, testing methods have to be developed. Based on the automotive specifications, a methodology has been set up to test the compression behavior of these new products. In order to answer the issue of replacement, some PU foam products have also been characterized, and comparisons with alternative products have been conducted. The results of this study show interesting properties of the new 3D fibrous structure in terms of compression behavior when compared to the PU foam.","PeriodicalId":49978,"journal":{"name":"Journal of the Textile Institute","volume":"104 1","pages":"1237 - 1246"},"PeriodicalIF":1.7,"publicationDate":"2013-10-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00405000.2013.796084","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"58871318","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2013-10-16DOI: 10.1080/00405000.2013.796627
A. Bedeloglu
Recently, increasing number of studies are performed on protective fabrics containing metal wires for electromagnetic shielding purposes. In the present paper, the hybrid fabrics in plain and rib structures were knitted by using single and double ply hybrid yarns obtained by acrylic (PAC) yarns plied with stainless steel wires having two different diameters. The physical properties including conductivity, air permeability, pilling, and abrasion resistance as well as electromagnetic shielding effectiveness (EMSE) were measured. The variations in EMSE as well as reflection, absorption, and transmission and in other physical properties of knitted hybrid fabrics were investigated considering wire content and weave structure. It was seen that an increase in the wire content significantly increased the conductivity. Rib fabrics exhibited better EMSE values as compared with plain fabrics. Fabrics using two-folded yarns exhibited better EMSE values. Fabrics using thinner wire exhibited higher EMSE values. The highest EMSE value was obtained for rib-knitted fabric with 35 micrometer (μm) stainless steel wire.
{"title":"Electrical, electromagnetic shielding, and some physical properties of hybrid yarn-based knitted fabrics","authors":"A. Bedeloglu","doi":"10.1080/00405000.2013.796627","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405000.2013.796627","url":null,"abstract":"Recently, increasing number of studies are performed on protective fabrics containing metal wires for electromagnetic shielding purposes. In the present paper, the hybrid fabrics in plain and rib structures were knitted by using single and double ply hybrid yarns obtained by acrylic (PAC) yarns plied with stainless steel wires having two different diameters. The physical properties including conductivity, air permeability, pilling, and abrasion resistance as well as electromagnetic shielding effectiveness (EMSE) were measured. The variations in EMSE as well as reflection, absorption, and transmission and in other physical properties of knitted hybrid fabrics were investigated considering wire content and weave structure. It was seen that an increase in the wire content significantly increased the conductivity. Rib fabrics exhibited better EMSE values as compared with plain fabrics. Fabrics using two-folded yarns exhibited better EMSE values. Fabrics using thinner wire exhibited higher EMSE values. The highest EMSE value was obtained for rib-knitted fabric with 35 micrometer (μm) stainless steel wire.","PeriodicalId":49978,"journal":{"name":"Journal of the Textile Institute","volume":"104 1","pages":"1247 - 1257"},"PeriodicalIF":1.7,"publicationDate":"2013-10-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00405000.2013.796627","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"58871332","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2013-10-16DOI: 10.1080/00405000.2013.787240
K. Fu, Da-nian Lu
In this paper, the effect of polyols on thermal stability of lipase was investigated. Lipase, with or without polyols was heated at 75°C for different periods of time. Half-life (t1/2, min) of lipase at 75°C was prolonged from 8.74 to 12.62, 11.66, 9.45, and 8.95 with the addition of d-sorbierite, d-fructose, mannite, and maltose, respectively. Conformational changes of lipase after the heat treatment were studied by both Fluorescence spectra test and UV spectra test. The UV values (as the unfolding ratios of lipase) calculated from UV spectra were related to the proportion of inactivated lipase. Residual activityUV (originated from UV values) reflected residual lipase activity from the experimental data accurately. Compared with cotton fabrics treated by the crude lipase at 75°C, the appearance of polyols enhanced the capillary effect and weight loss of cotton fabrics to some extent.
{"title":"Polyols’ effect on thermal stability of lipase and its application in cotton fabrics’ enzymatic treatment","authors":"K. Fu, Da-nian Lu","doi":"10.1080/00405000.2013.787240","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405000.2013.787240","url":null,"abstract":"In this paper, the effect of polyols on thermal stability of lipase was investigated. Lipase, with or without polyols was heated at 75°C for different periods of time. Half-life (t1/2, min) of lipase at 75°C was prolonged from 8.74 to 12.62, 11.66, 9.45, and 8.95 with the addition of d-sorbierite, d-fructose, mannite, and maltose, respectively. Conformational changes of lipase after the heat treatment were studied by both Fluorescence spectra test and UV spectra test. The UV values (as the unfolding ratios of lipase) calculated from UV spectra were related to the proportion of inactivated lipase. Residual activityUV (originated from UV values) reflected residual lipase activity from the experimental data accurately. Compared with cotton fabrics treated by the crude lipase at 75°C, the appearance of polyols enhanced the capillary effect and weight loss of cotton fabrics to some extent.","PeriodicalId":49978,"journal":{"name":"Journal of the Textile Institute","volume":"104 1","pages":"1206 - 1212"},"PeriodicalIF":1.7,"publicationDate":"2013-10-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00405000.2013.787240","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"58871177","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2013-10-16DOI: 10.1080/00405000.2013.796628
Liu Xinjin, Su Xuzhong
In this paper, a kind of airflow-twisting devices which can produce the twist by the high vortex airflow is employed for improving the twist propagation process of ring-spinning system. Firstly, three different kinds of yarns Ne20, Ne40, and Ne60 are spun in this modified ring-spinning system with five different airflow pressures and two different swirling directions, including anticlockwise and clockwise, and the qualities of spun yarns, including hairiness, strength, evenness, and number of snarling characterizing the yarn residual torque, are measured. Secondly, the images of spinning triangles are captured by using a high speed camera system OLYMPUS i-speed3, and the mechanism of the effects of vortex airflow on yarn qualities is discussed by analyzing the fiber tension distributions in the spinning triangle. It is shown that for the ‘Z’ twist spun yarn, the spinning triangle decreases with the increasing of clockwise airflow pressures, whereas the triangle becomes more and more symmetrical with the i...
{"title":"Research on spun yarn qualities in a modified ring-spinning system using airflow-twisting device","authors":"Liu Xinjin, Su Xuzhong","doi":"10.1080/00405000.2013.796628","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405000.2013.796628","url":null,"abstract":"In this paper, a kind of airflow-twisting devices which can produce the twist by the high vortex airflow is employed for improving the twist propagation process of ring-spinning system. Firstly, three different kinds of yarns Ne20, Ne40, and Ne60 are spun in this modified ring-spinning system with five different airflow pressures and two different swirling directions, including anticlockwise and clockwise, and the qualities of spun yarns, including hairiness, strength, evenness, and number of snarling characterizing the yarn residual torque, are measured. Secondly, the images of spinning triangles are captured by using a high speed camera system OLYMPUS i-speed3, and the mechanism of the effects of vortex airflow on yarn qualities is discussed by analyzing the fiber tension distributions in the spinning triangle. It is shown that for the ‘Z’ twist spun yarn, the spinning triangle decreases with the increasing of clockwise airflow pressures, whereas the triangle becomes more and more symmetrical with the i...","PeriodicalId":49978,"journal":{"name":"Journal of the Textile Institute","volume":"104 1","pages":"1258-1267"},"PeriodicalIF":1.7,"publicationDate":"2013-10-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00405000.2013.796628","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"58871385","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2013-10-16DOI: 10.1080/00405000.2013.780787
A. Bashari, N. Hemmati Nejad, A. Pourjavadi
Stimuli responsive hydrogels (SRHs) are smart materials with reversible changes in their properties through the environmental stimulus variations. Although SRHs have been used in various medical applications such as sensors, drug release systems and, etc., they are still being actively researched on other sectors such as functional textiles and smart clothing. One of the best methods to produce textiles with more functionality is smart finishing of textile by surface modifying stimuli responsive hydrogels. In this paper, literatures on SRHs applications, methods and application of some SRHs on textile have been thoroughly discussed.
{"title":"Applications of stimuli responsive hydrogels: a textile engineering approach","authors":"A. Bashari, N. Hemmati Nejad, A. Pourjavadi","doi":"10.1080/00405000.2013.780787","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405000.2013.780787","url":null,"abstract":"Stimuli responsive hydrogels (SRHs) are smart materials with reversible changes in their properties through the environmental stimulus variations. Although SRHs have been used in various medical applications such as sensors, drug release systems and, etc., they are still being actively researched on other sectors such as functional textiles and smart clothing. One of the best methods to produce textiles with more functionality is smart finishing of textile by surface modifying stimuli responsive hydrogels. In this paper, literatures on SRHs applications, methods and application of some SRHs on textile have been thoroughly discussed.","PeriodicalId":49978,"journal":{"name":"Journal of the Textile Institute","volume":"104 1","pages":"1145 - 1155"},"PeriodicalIF":1.7,"publicationDate":"2013-10-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00405000.2013.780787","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"58871064","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2013-10-16DOI: 10.1080/00405000.2013.785080
B. Sun, Yao Yao, Limin Jin, B. Gu
This paper presents the finite element simulation of stress distribution features of 3D layer-to-layer angle-interlock woven composite undergoing three-point bending cyclic loading. With the finite element analysis model, a microstructure shell element model of the woven composite at yarn level was established to calculate the fatigue behaviors and stress distribution during cyclic loading. The stress distributions in the warp, weft yarns, and the resin regions have been calculated to show the stress difference in the woven composite. It has been observed that the warp yarns share the most part of the stress or loading, i.e. the strength warp yarn is more important than that of the weft yarn for the fatigue design. In addition, the stress distributions at the locations where the weft yarns crossover the warp yarns have been investigated. The stress degradations of the top and bottom surface of the woven composite panels were also compared with those in experimental and good agreement was found. With the stress distribution in the woven composite, the method of improving the fatigue damage tolerance was expected to be developed.
{"title":"Finite element analyses of stress distributions of three-dimensional angle-interlock woven composite subjected to three-point bending cyclic loading","authors":"B. Sun, Yao Yao, Limin Jin, B. Gu","doi":"10.1080/00405000.2013.785080","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405000.2013.785080","url":null,"abstract":"This paper presents the finite element simulation of stress distribution features of 3D layer-to-layer angle-interlock woven composite undergoing three-point bending cyclic loading. With the finite element analysis model, a microstructure shell element model of the woven composite at yarn level was established to calculate the fatigue behaviors and stress distribution during cyclic loading. The stress distributions in the warp, weft yarns, and the resin regions have been calculated to show the stress difference in the woven composite. It has been observed that the warp yarns share the most part of the stress or loading, i.e. the strength warp yarn is more important than that of the weft yarn for the fatigue design. In addition, the stress distributions at the locations where the weft yarns crossover the warp yarns have been investigated. The stress degradations of the top and bottom surface of the woven composite panels were also compared with those in experimental and good agreement was found. With the stress distribution in the woven composite, the method of improving the fatigue damage tolerance was expected to be developed.","PeriodicalId":49978,"journal":{"name":"Journal of the Textile Institute","volume":"104 1","pages":"1186 - 1194"},"PeriodicalIF":1.7,"publicationDate":"2013-10-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00405000.2013.785080","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"58871110","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2013-10-16DOI: 10.1080/00405000.2013.782214
E. Öner, A. Okur
In this study, fabrics with different plain, tuck and float stitch combinations in three different tightness levels as tight, medium and loose are produced from combed ring spun cotton yarn. It is aimed at determining the effect of fabric structure on liquid absorption, transport and permeability properties, which are important factors in the people’s perception of wear comfort. The air permeability, wicking ability and moisture management measurements of the produced fabrics are made. It is determined that the increase in the fabric tightness decreases the air permeability and increases the wicking ability especially in 60 min measurements. The fabric tightness has also different effects on different knitting types in terms of moisture management properties. It is observed that structures with float stitches show high wicking ability and moisture management properties in terms of plain, tuck and float stitches combinations.
{"title":"The effect of different knitted fabrics’ structures on the moisture transport properties","authors":"E. Öner, A. Okur","doi":"10.1080/00405000.2013.782214","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405000.2013.782214","url":null,"abstract":"In this study, fabrics with different plain, tuck and float stitch combinations in three different tightness levels as tight, medium and loose are produced from combed ring spun cotton yarn. It is aimed at determining the effect of fabric structure on liquid absorption, transport and permeability properties, which are important factors in the people’s perception of wear comfort. The air permeability, wicking ability and moisture management measurements of the produced fabrics are made. It is determined that the increase in the fabric tightness decreases the air permeability and increases the wicking ability especially in 60 min measurements. The fabric tightness has also different effects on different knitting types in terms of moisture management properties. It is observed that structures with float stitches show high wicking ability and moisture management properties in terms of plain, tuck and float stitches combinations.","PeriodicalId":49978,"journal":{"name":"Journal of the Textile Institute","volume":"104 1","pages":"1164 - 1177"},"PeriodicalIF":1.7,"publicationDate":"2013-10-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00405000.2013.782214","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"58871084","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2013-10-16DOI: 10.1080/00405000.2013.787269
M. Varsei, S. Shaikhzadeh Najar, M. Hosseini, M. Seyed Razzaghi
The aim of this study is to evaluate the effect of thread density and weave design on the bending properties of fine-grained concrete beams reinforced with single layer carbon/polypropylene woven fabric. In this study, at first, fabrics were woven with two types of design (plain and twill) and four different thread densities. Then, they were compounded into fine-grained concrete as a beam. After 4 weeks, the bending properties of all the samples were tested using four-point bending test method. The bending properties of these composite samples were evaluated using different parameters including the load at the elastic zone (limit of proportionality [LOP]) as well as the highest-peak point (modulus of rupture), toughness values, and toughness indices at the specific deflections. New parameters namely: toughness value and toughness index at the highest-peak point were also suggested in this study. The results showed that the bending load of concrete beams reinforced with plain fabric at the elastic region (LOP point) is identical to that of simple concrete beam whereas concrete beams reinforced with twill fabric exhibited lower value. Also, increasing thread density increased the bending load at the composite failure point while the effect of weave design was not significant. It is also indicated that the toughness properties of concrete composite beams have been improved with a denser carbon/polypropylene fabric particularly at higher bending deflections whereas the weave design did not show any significant effect and only influenced on toughness properties at small deflection values. The obtained results of this work suggest that concrete composite beams reinforced with carbon/polypropylene woven fabrics on average are 6.5–40.75 times tougher than simple concrete beams.
{"title":"Bending properties of fine-grained concrete composite beams reinforced with single-layer carbon/polypropylene woven fabrics with different weave designs and thread densities","authors":"M. Varsei, S. Shaikhzadeh Najar, M. Hosseini, M. Seyed Razzaghi","doi":"10.1080/00405000.2013.787269","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405000.2013.787269","url":null,"abstract":"The aim of this study is to evaluate the effect of thread density and weave design on the bending properties of fine-grained concrete beams reinforced with single layer carbon/polypropylene woven fabric. In this study, at first, fabrics were woven with two types of design (plain and twill) and four different thread densities. Then, they were compounded into fine-grained concrete as a beam. After 4 weeks, the bending properties of all the samples were tested using four-point bending test method. The bending properties of these composite samples were evaluated using different parameters including the load at the elastic zone (limit of proportionality [LOP]) as well as the highest-peak point (modulus of rupture), toughness values, and toughness indices at the specific deflections. New parameters namely: toughness value and toughness index at the highest-peak point were also suggested in this study. The results showed that the bending load of concrete beams reinforced with plain fabric at the elastic region (LOP point) is identical to that of simple concrete beam whereas concrete beams reinforced with twill fabric exhibited lower value. Also, increasing thread density increased the bending load at the composite failure point while the effect of weave design was not significant. It is also indicated that the toughness properties of concrete composite beams have been improved with a denser carbon/polypropylene fabric particularly at higher bending deflections whereas the weave design did not show any significant effect and only influenced on toughness properties at small deflection values. The obtained results of this work suggest that concrete composite beams reinforced with carbon/polypropylene woven fabrics on average are 6.5–40.75 times tougher than simple concrete beams.","PeriodicalId":49978,"journal":{"name":"Journal of the Textile Institute","volume":"104 1","pages":"1213 - 1220"},"PeriodicalIF":1.7,"publicationDate":"2013-10-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00405000.2013.787269","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"58871196","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2013-10-16DOI: 10.1080/00405000.2013.786252
R. Sumner, I. Cuthbertson, M. Upsdell
Research has shown a technical description of a blend for most woollen carpet applications can be met with objective measurements, namely mean fibre diameter, fibre length after carding, wool bulk, proportion of medullation, base colour and vegetable matter content. The compressional property of wool as reflected in bulk is strongly related to mean fibre diameter and mean fibre curvature. Both these measurements can now be measured simultaneously with recently developed electronic instrumentation. While the processing implications of changes in mean fibre diameter are well understood, the processing implications of changes in objectively measured mean fibre curvature have not been investigated in detail. A total of 360 New Zealand Romcross type fleeces shorn from yearling sheep, with an individual range in mean fibre diameter of 23.2–40.6 μm and an individual range in mean fibre curvature of 34–115°/mm were used. The individual fleeces were sorted to create five, similar-sized, wool-processing lines with the following specifications for mean fibre diameter and mean fibre curvature. Lot 1: low fibre diameter/high fibre curvature (30.2 μm, 72°/mm); Lot 2: high fibre diameter/high fibre curvature (33.5 μm, 70°/mm); Lot 3: medium fibre diameter/medium fibre curvature (32.1 μm, 64°/mm); Lot 4: low fibre diameter/low fibre curvature (31.1 μm, 58°/mm); and Lot 5: high fibre diameter/low fibre curvature (34.5 μm, 51°/mm). Each processing lot was scoured, combed to reduce the proportion of short fibre within each lot and spun into yarn on the semi-worsted system. Mean spindle speed at break (50 fibres in cross-section) and yarn breaking load were greatest for Lot 4 and lowest for Lot 2. Increasing fibre diameter and increasing fibre curvature resulted in less unevenness within the yarn and a decrease in neps. Coarse highly crimped fibre produced the bulkiest yarn while the finer straighter fibre produced the lowest bulk yarn. Potential wearability of knitted garments using yarn spun from each processing lot was assessed using standard knitted squares. Increasing fibre diameter and increasing fibre curvature resulted in greater relaxation shrinkage in length, while decreasing fibre diameter and increasing fibre curvature resulted in increased extensibility in width. Overall resistance to felting shrinkage increased as crimp and diameter increased. There was no difference in pilling between the processing lots. The presented results indicate that increasing fibre curvature in Romcross type sheep as may occur through selection or crossbreeding associated with improving lamb production, will have a beneficial effect on the performance of products made from their wool.
{"title":"Evaluation of the relative significance of fibre diameter and fibre curvature when processing New Zealand Romcross type wool","authors":"R. Sumner, I. Cuthbertson, M. Upsdell","doi":"10.1080/00405000.2013.786252","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405000.2013.786252","url":null,"abstract":"Research has shown a technical description of a blend for most woollen carpet applications can be met with objective measurements, namely mean fibre diameter, fibre length after carding, wool bulk, proportion of medullation, base colour and vegetable matter content. The compressional property of wool as reflected in bulk is strongly related to mean fibre diameter and mean fibre curvature. Both these measurements can now be measured simultaneously with recently developed electronic instrumentation. While the processing implications of changes in mean fibre diameter are well understood, the processing implications of changes in objectively measured mean fibre curvature have not been investigated in detail. A total of 360 New Zealand Romcross type fleeces shorn from yearling sheep, with an individual range in mean fibre diameter of 23.2–40.6 μm and an individual range in mean fibre curvature of 34–115°/mm were used. The individual fleeces were sorted to create five, similar-sized, wool-processing lines with the following specifications for mean fibre diameter and mean fibre curvature. Lot 1: low fibre diameter/high fibre curvature (30.2 μm, 72°/mm); Lot 2: high fibre diameter/high fibre curvature (33.5 μm, 70°/mm); Lot 3: medium fibre diameter/medium fibre curvature (32.1 μm, 64°/mm); Lot 4: low fibre diameter/low fibre curvature (31.1 μm, 58°/mm); and Lot 5: high fibre diameter/low fibre curvature (34.5 μm, 51°/mm). Each processing lot was scoured, combed to reduce the proportion of short fibre within each lot and spun into yarn on the semi-worsted system. Mean spindle speed at break (50 fibres in cross-section) and yarn breaking load were greatest for Lot 4 and lowest for Lot 2. Increasing fibre diameter and increasing fibre curvature resulted in less unevenness within the yarn and a decrease in neps. Coarse highly crimped fibre produced the bulkiest yarn while the finer straighter fibre produced the lowest bulk yarn. Potential wearability of knitted garments using yarn spun from each processing lot was assessed using standard knitted squares. Increasing fibre diameter and increasing fibre curvature resulted in greater relaxation shrinkage in length, while decreasing fibre diameter and increasing fibre curvature resulted in increased extensibility in width. Overall resistance to felting shrinkage increased as crimp and diameter increased. There was no difference in pilling between the processing lots. The presented results indicate that increasing fibre curvature in Romcross type sheep as may occur through selection or crossbreeding associated with improving lamb production, will have a beneficial effect on the performance of products made from their wool.","PeriodicalId":49978,"journal":{"name":"Journal of the Textile Institute","volume":"104 1","pages":"1195 - 1205"},"PeriodicalIF":1.7,"publicationDate":"2013-10-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00405000.2013.786252","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"58871122","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2013-10-16DOI: 10.1080/00405000.2013.779057
R. Halfaoui, B. Chemani
There are various factors that influence yarn strength. Yarn breaking is due to fiber breakages and fiber’s slippages. In reality, a part of the fibers slip while the other part breaks. In this study, we have shown that fatigue yarn, resulting in a fundamental way impact on the number of breaks on the weaving machine, and sometimes on the physical properties of fabrics. Given the importance of the issue and the very limited directed research number in this direction, a tests series were carried out with the aim to highlight the changes to the physical characteristics of the yarn resulting from mechanical treatment comparable to that which they are subjected on the weaving machine. In the first part of our investigation, the residual deformation, tensile strength, and elongation at break of combed and carded threads were measured. In the second part, the influence of the extensions number, their amplitudes, and frequencies were analyzed. In order to examine the influence of these parameters, carded and combed yarns, with different characteristics were prepared. Therefore, based on the separate treatment results of three test series, it appears that: the warp yarns subjected to repeated extensions undergo the phenomenon of fatigue. Yarns fatigue reduces their elasticity and resistance and it is the cause for break yarn during weaving. The fatigue of wool yarns is very low compared to other textile materials.
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