Pub Date : 2022-10-17DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2022.2117008
E. Huggard, P. Lonergan, Anja Overdiek
Abstract This paper helps academics and practitioners understand the shift from traditional to new ideologies in luxury fashion. By tracing the workings of traditional luxury ideologies and unpacking the impact of digital and social media, the article explains why social capital has become a primary resource for brands and a core constituent of new luxury ideologies. It also unveils three traits of brands building social capital which might be of prime influence, and illustrates them in three case studies with luxury fashion brands Gucci, Noah and Pyer Moss. Academics can build on the findings with further theoretical development. We also raise important implications for marketing practitioners, who can rely on such for building stronger luxury brands.
{"title":"New Luxury Ideologies: A Shift From Building Cultural to Social Capital","authors":"E. Huggard, P. Lonergan, Anja Overdiek","doi":"10.1080/1362704X.2022.2117008","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2022.2117008","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract This paper helps academics and practitioners understand the shift from traditional to new ideologies in luxury fashion. By tracing the workings of traditional luxury ideologies and unpacking the impact of digital and social media, the article explains why social capital has become a primary resource for brands and a core constituent of new luxury ideologies. It also unveils three traits of brands building social capital which might be of prime influence, and illustrates them in three case studies with luxury fashion brands Gucci, Noah and Pyer Moss. Academics can build on the findings with further theoretical development. We also raise important implications for marketing practitioners, who can rely on such for building stronger luxury brands.","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"27 1","pages":"555 - 579"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2022-10-17","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42841856","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-10-13DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2022.2132020
Katharina Herold-Zanker
{"title":"British Dandies: Engendering Scandal and Fashioning a Nation","authors":"Katharina Herold-Zanker","doi":"10.1080/1362704X.2022.2132020","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2022.2132020","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"27 1","pages":"165 - 170"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2022-10-13","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48279309","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-09-19DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2022.2135673
V. Steele
{"title":"Letter from the Editor","authors":"V. Steele","doi":"10.1080/1362704X.2022.2135673","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2022.2135673","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"26 1","pages":"711 - 714"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2022-09-19","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42150344","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-09-12DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2022.2113602
Naomi Lubrich
Abstract In the past decade, Edgar Degas’s milliner series (1876–1910) received new attention thanks to a youtube video by the Art Institute of Chicago and a joint exhibition in Saint Louis and San Francisco. A consensus has formed to interpret the works, which show milliners and customers contemplating hats, as artistic self-reflection, with the milliners standing for artists and the hats for artworks. This article picks up where the research left off, adding to the interpretation of the works as artistic self-reflection insights on the history of palette pedagogy and literary sources so far not connected to Degas. It also adds a “why,” locating the analogy of hats and art in Degas’s oeuvre, comparing it to that of his contemporaries, and contributing a pragmatic answer to the 19th century discussion: “What is art for?”
在过去的十年里，埃德加·德加(Edgar Degas)的女帽系列(1876-1910)受到了新的关注，这要归功于芝加哥艺术学院(Art Institute of Chicago)在youtube上发布的一段视频，以及圣路易斯和旧金山的联合展览。这些作品展示了女帽商和顾客对帽子的思考，人们一致认为，女帽商代表艺术家，帽子代表艺术品，这是一种艺术上的自我反思。这篇文章从研究结束的地方开始，增加了对这些作品的解释，作为对调色板教育学历史和文学来源的艺术自我反思的见解，迄今为止与德加没有联系。它还增加了一个“为什么”，在德加的全部作品中找到帽子和艺术的类比，将其与同时代的作品进行比较，并为19世纪的讨论提供了一个实用的答案:“艺术是为了什么?”
{"title":"Ceci n’est pas un chapeau: What is Art, and What is Fashion in Degas’s Millinery Series?","authors":"Naomi Lubrich","doi":"10.1080/1362704X.2022.2113602","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2022.2113602","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract In the past decade, Edgar Degas’s milliner series (1876–1910) received new attention thanks to a youtube video by the Art Institute of Chicago and a joint exhibition in Saint Louis and San Francisco. A consensus has formed to interpret the works, which show milliners and customers contemplating hats, as artistic self-reflection, with the milliners standing for artists and the hats for artworks. This article picks up where the research left off, adding to the interpretation of the works as artistic self-reflection insights on the history of palette pedagogy and literary sources so far not connected to Degas. It also adds a “why,” locating the analogy of hats and art in Degas’s oeuvre, comparing it to that of his contemporaries, and contributing a pragmatic answer to the 19th century discussion: “What is art for?”","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"27 1","pages":"511 - 531"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2022-09-12","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41394096","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-09-12DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2022.2118671
Yeong-Hyeon Choi, Saram Han
Abstract This study aims to determine the optimal solution to the dilemma that arises from vegan fashion materials by identifying current vegan or cruelty-free fashion brands that advocate “animal-friendly” and revealing how animal ethics should be expressed so that consumers more effectively accept it. This research applies the “prisoner’s dilemma,” which is a situation that is often used in game theory. First, the solution to the dilemma of vegan fashion materials using Pareto efficiency is more ideal and rational than that of the Nash equilibrium point. Second, this study finds that many vegan fashion brands use a blend of synthetic materials rather than animal-derived materials. While all cruelty-free fashion brands have been cooperative with the environment, some are treacherous to animals by allowing the manufacture of animal materials. Additionally, animal-friendly brands are being developed mainly in the United States and Canada.
{"title":"The Moral Dilemma in Fashion: Using the Prisoner’s Dilemma Game on Animals and the Environment","authors":"Yeong-Hyeon Choi, Saram Han","doi":"10.1080/1362704X.2022.2118671","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2022.2118671","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract This study aims to determine the optimal solution to the dilemma that arises from vegan fashion materials by identifying current vegan or cruelty-free fashion brands that advocate “animal-friendly” and revealing how animal ethics should be expressed so that consumers more effectively accept it. This research applies the “prisoner’s dilemma,” which is a situation that is often used in game theory. First, the solution to the dilemma of vegan fashion materials using Pareto efficiency is more ideal and rational than that of the Nash equilibrium point. Second, this study finds that many vegan fashion brands use a blend of synthetic materials rather than animal-derived materials. While all cruelty-free fashion brands have been cooperative with the environment, some are treacherous to animals by allowing the manufacture of animal materials. Additionally, animal-friendly brands are being developed mainly in the United States and Canada.","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"27 1","pages":"443 - 472"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2022-09-12","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41904713","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-09-07DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2022.2115964
Eleonora Bosco
Abstract Since the first appearance with his brand Vetements at the Paris Fashion Week in 2014 and his successive takeover of the French maison Balenciaga in 2015, designer Demna has represented a controversial figure in the industry, capable of merging stereotypically luxurious pieces with direct references to pop culture and politics. This article analyses the imagery and the communication strategies of his two brands by providing a revised reading of the grotesque theory to fit the contemporary climate. Previously associated with a regenerative power capable of contrasting the status quo, the grotesque returns in the new millennium shrouded in an aura of gloom. Demna intercepts the anxiety that arises from the environmental crises, our poorly regulated relationship with technology and social media, and the rightward populist drift that has been spreading in Europe and USA, and distills it in his collections, fashion shows and campaigns. In order to explore the dark, thickly encoded work of the designer, the theoretical framework of this article combines a rigorous account of the grotesque canon to postmodernist theory, for their shared interest for low and popular culture as the unofficial voice that mocks and undermines power structures.
{"title":"Carnivalesque Practices and Cyborg Esthetics: A Study of the Grotesque of Demna","authors":"Eleonora Bosco","doi":"10.1080/1362704X.2022.2115964","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2022.2115964","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Since the first appearance with his brand Vetements at the Paris Fashion Week in 2014 and his successive takeover of the French maison Balenciaga in 2015, designer Demna has represented a controversial figure in the industry, capable of merging stereotypically luxurious pieces with direct references to pop culture and politics. This article analyses the imagery and the communication strategies of his two brands by providing a revised reading of the grotesque theory to fit the contemporary climate. Previously associated with a regenerative power capable of contrasting the status quo, the grotesque returns in the new millennium shrouded in an aura of gloom. Demna intercepts the anxiety that arises from the environmental crises, our poorly regulated relationship with technology and social media, and the rightward populist drift that has been spreading in Europe and USA, and distills it in his collections, fashion shows and campaigns. In order to explore the dark, thickly encoded work of the designer, the theoretical framework of this article combines a rigorous account of the grotesque canon to postmodernist theory, for their shared interest for low and popular culture as the unofficial voice that mocks and undermines power structures.","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"27 1","pages":"533 - 554"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2022-09-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45571197","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-08-26DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2022.2113215
Tirza Westland
{"title":"Print & Paint, 350 Years of Flowers on Cotton","authors":"Tirza Westland","doi":"10.1080/1362704X.2022.2113215","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2022.2113215","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"27 1","pages":"149 - 156"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2022-08-26","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48853023","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-08-22DOI: 10.1080/1362704x.2022.2111020
Corneliu Dinu Tudor Bodiciu
{"title":"Symbiosis: A New Paradigm for Understanding How Bodies and Dress Come Together","authors":"Corneliu Dinu Tudor Bodiciu","doi":"10.1080/1362704x.2022.2111020","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704x.2022.2111020","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2022-08-22","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42099703","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-08-12DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2022.2100481
T. Errázuriz, E. Müller
Abstract Confronted with the fashion industry’s serious socio-environmental impact and acknowledging that fast fashion provokes unstable relationships with clothing, accelerating loss of value and early disposal, this article explores those cases in which garments are still valued and attachment is strong. We are interested in identifying the motives behind the bonds that are developed toward cherished pieces of clothing. For this, we have analyzed more than 600 short stories, written by men and women from all over Chile, that justify those garments that remain in their closets for many seasons and reasons. The results allow us to identify a set of attributes and their correlations, enriching the discussion about the relationship between people and dress.
{"title":"“My Cherished Garment”: Rethinking Fashion, Attachment and Durability","authors":"T. Errázuriz, E. Müller","doi":"10.1080/1362704X.2022.2100481","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2022.2100481","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Confronted with the fashion industry’s serious socio-environmental impact and acknowledging that fast fashion provokes unstable relationships with clothing, accelerating loss of value and early disposal, this article explores those cases in which garments are still valued and attachment is strong. We are interested in identifying the motives behind the bonds that are developed toward cherished pieces of clothing. For this, we have analyzed more than 600 short stories, written by men and women from all over Chile, that justify those garments that remain in their closets for many seasons and reasons. The results allow us to identify a set of attributes and their correlations, enriching the discussion about the relationship between people and dress.","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"27 1","pages":"327 - 354"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2022-08-12","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"49416506","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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