Pub Date : 2023-01-27DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2023.2166205
C. Fu
Abstract This study explores the intersections between state and fashion in China by examining the facilitation of a new fashion identity in a fashion edutainment program produced by national television. It argues that the state-sponsored (re)appraisal of traditional sartorial esthetics from which a decolonized fashion identity is expected to evolve is intimately interweaved with the state’s metanarrative of national revival. The study interprets the reversion back to native historical traditions to counter and offer an alternative to Western cultural episteme as an inherently decolonial effort. With an emancipated fashion identity, the state aims to reclaim cultural authorship from the dictates of colonialism and orientalism. The paper examines how sartorial nationalism is given new expressions and highlights the question of authenticity working within state-prescribed parameters. The desire for international recognition however undermines the decoloniality of this undertaking.
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Pub Date : 2023-01-26DOI: 10.1080/1362704x.2023.2170706
Ana Neto, J. Ferreira
{"title":"Lasting Bonds: Understanding Wearer-Clothing Relationships through Interpersonal Love-Theory","authors":"Ana Neto, J. Ferreira","doi":"10.1080/1362704x.2023.2170706","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704x.2023.2170706","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2023-01-26","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41693549","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-01-09DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2022.2109690
M. Nguyen, Ann Marie Leshkowich
Abstract Drawing on two case studies of designers whose work centered on the Vietnamese aó dài, one from the 1930s and the other the 2010s–2020s, this article considers how desires to construe fashion as art and the designer as fine artist have been implicated in transnational circuits of symbolic and material value, as well as colonial and postcolonial power relations. While decolonial scholarship on fashion has called for attention to diverse dress practices that are external to modernity and coloniality, this article argues that artist-designers’ demands for recognition of Vietnamese dress within universalizing systems of fashion and art can also constitute a decolonial move because they highlight the plurality at the heart of fashion’s aesthetic and material regime. At the same time, the designers’ creative processes often grapple with internalized discourses of essentialized Vietnamese identities that have emerged within a patriarchal context and have tended to deploy the clothed bodies of women. In simultaneously positioning their fashion as art and asserting an essentialized national identity, Vietnamese designers in different temporal contexts have both constituted and challenged the ideological and material contours of the raced, gendered, and classed hierarchies of modernity, coloniality, and fashion.
{"title":"Artful Decoloniality: The Politics of Fashion as Art in 20th and 21st Century Vietnam","authors":"M. Nguyen, Ann Marie Leshkowich","doi":"10.1080/1362704X.2022.2109690","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2022.2109690","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Drawing on two case studies of designers whose work centered on the Vietnamese aó dài, one from the 1930s and the other the 2010s–2020s, this article considers how desires to construe fashion as art and the designer as fine artist have been implicated in transnational circuits of symbolic and material value, as well as colonial and postcolonial power relations. While decolonial scholarship on fashion has called for attention to diverse dress practices that are external to modernity and coloniality, this article argues that artist-designers’ demands for recognition of Vietnamese dress within universalizing systems of fashion and art can also constitute a decolonial move because they highlight the plurality at the heart of fashion’s aesthetic and material regime. At the same time, the designers’ creative processes often grapple with internalized discourses of essentialized Vietnamese identities that have emerged within a patriarchal context and have tended to deploy the clothed bodies of women. In simultaneously positioning their fashion as art and asserting an essentialized national identity, Vietnamese designers in different temporal contexts have both constituted and challenged the ideological and material contours of the raced, gendered, and classed hierarchies of modernity, coloniality, and fashion.","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"27 1","pages":"355 - 381"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2023-01-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41756597","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-01-02DOI: 10.1080/1362704x.2023.2175963
Jonathan C. Kaplan, P. McNeil
The editorial introduces a Special Issue of Critical Studies in Men’s Fashion, ‘Fashion in the Age of AIDS’. Outlining the devastating impact of the emergence of Acquired Immunodeficiency Syndrome (AIDS) from the 1980s in the West on mainly gay men and minorities, the editors provide their rationale and introduce the contributors. As well as its effects on the fashion and styling industries, creating a ‘lost’ or ‘missing’ generation, AIDS and its rhetoric saw an array of new styles and looks developed by and for LGBTQI peoples in response to the crisis. Authors cover areas as diverse as fashion and music, fashion and intersectional homophobia, the fashion industry’s response to AIDS, ‘passing’ as straight, and fashion and body modification.
{"title":"Letter from the Editors","authors":"Jonathan C. Kaplan, P. McNeil","doi":"10.1080/1362704x.2023.2175963","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704x.2023.2175963","url":null,"abstract":"The editorial introduces a Special Issue of Critical Studies in Men’s Fashion, ‘Fashion in the Age of AIDS’. Outlining the devastating impact of the emergence of Acquired Immunodeficiency Syndrome (AIDS) from the 1980s in the West on mainly gay men and minorities, the editors provide their rationale and introduce the contributors. As well as its effects on the fashion and styling industries, creating a ‘lost’ or ‘missing’ generation, AIDS and its rhetoric saw an array of new styles and looks developed by and for LGBTQI peoples in response to the crisis. Authors cover areas as diverse as fashion and music, fashion and intersectional homophobia, the fashion industry’s response to AIDS, ‘passing’ as straight, and fashion and body modification.","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"27 1","pages":"1 - 3"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2023-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44341755","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-12-16DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2022.2151700
Kate Strasdin
{"title":"Material Lives: Women Makers and Consumer Culture in the 18th Century","authors":"Kate Strasdin","doi":"10.1080/1362704X.2022.2151700","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2022.2151700","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"27 1","pages":"317 - 321"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2022-12-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43160396","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-11-30DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2022.2151117
Jeffrey DeShell
{"title":"Fashion|Sense: On Philosophy and Fashion","authors":"Jeffrey DeShell","doi":"10.1080/1362704X.2022.2151117","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2022.2151117","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"27 1","pages":"311 - 316"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2022-11-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45412717","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-11-11DOI: 10.1080/1362704x.2022.2137292
Paola Di Trocchio
{"title":"Elvis: Direct from Graceland","authors":"Paola Di Trocchio","doi":"10.1080/1362704x.2022.2137292","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704x.2022.2137292","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"27 1","pages":"295 - 303"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2022-11-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46440146","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-11-10DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2022.2154937
V. Steele
{"title":"Letter from the Editor","authors":"V. Steele","doi":"10.1080/1362704X.2022.2154937","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2022.2154937","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"26 1","pages":"921 - 924"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2022-11-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44539391","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-10-25DOI: 10.1080/1362704X.2022.2129138
Joshua M. Bluteau
{"title":"Undercover—From Necessity to Luxury: The Evolution of Face Coverings during COVID-19","authors":"Joshua M. Bluteau","doi":"10.1080/1362704X.2022.2129138","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2022.2129138","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"27 1","pages":"157 - 164"},"PeriodicalIF":1.0,"publicationDate":"2022-10-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41510087","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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