In December 1689, Louis XIV consigned his vast collection of silver furnishings to the crucibles of the Royal Mint. Although the celebrated collection took on legendary status that has persisted in popular and scholarly narratives of the reign of the Sun King ever since, the material and the documentary archive nonetheless offer a limited picture. This article seeks to demonstrate that reexamining the archive with reference to a chaîne opératoire framework that centers on artisanal practice can help to illuminate these absent artifacts. This attention to production and process allows a view beyond the representational surfaces. In the hands of networks of expert specialists—goldsmiths, joiners, sculptors, ironmongers, founders, ébénistes, and probably more besides—these pieces combined cross-trade expertise and diverse techniques, revealing sophisticated deployments of material and coordination of artisanal skills.
1689年12月，路易十四将他收藏的大量银质家具委托给皇家造币厂的坩埚。尽管这些著名的收藏在太阳王统治时期的流行和学术叙述中一直具有传奇的地位，但这些材料和文献档案仍然提供了有限的画面。本文试图证明，参考以手工实践为中心的cha ne opsamatoire框架重新检查档案可以帮助阐明这些缺失的工件。这种对生产和过程的关注允许超越表象表面的观点。在专业人士——金匠、细木工、雕塑家、铁器商、创始人、和其他可能更多的人——的手中，这些作品结合了跨行业的专业知识和不同的技术，揭示了材料的复杂部署和手工技能的协调。
{"title":"The Sun King’s Silver: An Artisan-Centered Study of the Silver Furnishings of Louis XIV","authors":"C. Clarke","doi":"10.1086/725983","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1086/725983","url":null,"abstract":"In December 1689, Louis XIV consigned his vast collection of silver furnishings to the crucibles of the Royal Mint. Although the celebrated collection took on legendary status that has persisted in popular and scholarly narratives of the reign of the Sun King ever since, the material and the documentary archive nonetheless offer a limited picture. This article seeks to demonstrate that reexamining the archive with reference to a chaîne opératoire framework that centers on artisanal practice can help to illuminate these absent artifacts. This attention to production and process allows a view beyond the representational surfaces. In the hands of networks of expert specialists—goldsmiths, joiners, sculptors, ironmongers, founders, ébénistes, and probably more besides—these pieces combined cross-trade expertise and diverse techniques, revealing sophisticated deployments of material and coordination of artisanal skills.","PeriodicalId":53917,"journal":{"name":"West 86th-A Journal of Decorative Arts Design History and Material Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41416706","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Editor’s Introduction","authors":"P. Stirton","doi":"10.1086/725982","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1086/725982","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":53917,"journal":{"name":"West 86th-A Journal of Decorative Arts Design History and Material Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"49021183","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":":Early Islamic Textiles from along the Silk Road","authors":"Corinne Mühlemann","doi":"10.1086/725990","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1086/725990","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":53917,"journal":{"name":"West 86th-A Journal of Decorative Arts Design History and Material Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45724042","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Artificial flowers made by Vanessa Bell and others for the Omega Workshops during the war years have received little scholarly commentary compared with the firm’s other products. This article analyzes the flowers as heirs to a Victorian tradition of artificial flower making, as innovative aesthetic objects in their own right, and as works that catalyzed an emancipatory vision of modern living, painterly style, and comparative aesthetics for the Bloomsbury artists. Bell reworked the material culture of her Victorian upbringing in a modernist idiom through the flowers, articulating a new vision of femininity. For Duncan Grant, they were both symbols of sexual nonconformity and vehicles of sensual immersion in private domestic space. And in Roger Fry’s paintings, the flowers often invite formal and conceptual comparisons between the arts of East and West, opening up new forms of cross-cultural pollination and appreciation.
{"title":"Omega Flowers and Bloomsbury Modernism","authors":"Alison Syme","doi":"10.1086/725984","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1086/725984","url":null,"abstract":"Artificial flowers made by Vanessa Bell and others for the Omega Workshops during the war years have received little scholarly commentary compared with the firm’s other products. This article analyzes the flowers as heirs to a Victorian tradition of artificial flower making, as innovative aesthetic objects in their own right, and as works that catalyzed an emancipatory vision of modern living, painterly style, and comparative aesthetics for the Bloomsbury artists. Bell reworked the material culture of her Victorian upbringing in a modernist idiom through the flowers, articulating a new vision of femininity. For Duncan Grant, they were both symbols of sexual nonconformity and vehicles of sensual immersion in private domestic space. And in Roger Fry’s paintings, the flowers often invite formal and conceptual comparisons between the arts of East and West, opening up new forms of cross-cultural pollination and appreciation.","PeriodicalId":53917,"journal":{"name":"West 86th-A Journal of Decorative Arts Design History and Material Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46887639","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":":Italy by Way of India: Translating Art and Devotion in the Early Modern World","authors":"Stephanie Porras","doi":"10.1086/725992","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1086/725992","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":53917,"journal":{"name":"West 86th-A Journal of Decorative Arts Design History and Material Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45408338","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
H. Focillon, Christopher S. Wood, Samuel Luterbacher
{"title":"Folk Art: Artistic and Scientific Works from the First Congress on Folk Arts, Prague, 1928","authors":"H. Focillon, Christopher S. Wood, Samuel Luterbacher","doi":"10.1086/724699","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1086/724699","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":53917,"journal":{"name":"West 86th-A Journal of Decorative Arts Design History and Material Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48934876","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Altar curtains played a major role in creating discrete spaces between actors of liturgical ritual by separating the congregation from celebrating bishops, priests, and deacons. Inscriptions document important information concerning the production and afterlife of each curtain, such as the church it was destined for, the printer responsible for its design, and the name of its donor. This article explores the circumstances surrounding the production and function of block-printed curtains commissioned by Armenian pilgrims returning from Jerusalem in Tokat, a burgeoning industrial center in the northern provinces of the Ottoman Empire. Special attention is paid to the technical peculiarities, ritual setting, and intended audience of the printed altar curtain—a microcosm of Ottoman Armenian industry, pilgrimage
{"title":"Printing Pilgrimage: Replication and Imagination between Tokat and Jerusalem","authors":"E. Piñon","doi":"10.1086/724698","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1086/724698","url":null,"abstract":"Altar curtains played a major role in creating discrete spaces between actors of liturgical ritual by separating the congregation from celebrating bishops, priests, and deacons. Inscriptions document important information concerning the production and afterlife of each curtain, such as the church it was destined for, the printer responsible for its design, and the name of its donor. This article explores the circumstances surrounding the production and function of block-printed curtains commissioned by Armenian pilgrims returning from Jerusalem in Tokat, a burgeoning industrial center in the northern provinces of the Ottoman Empire. Special attention is paid to the technical peculiarities, ritual setting, and intended audience of the printed altar curtain—a microcosm of Ottoman Armenian industry, pilgrimage","PeriodicalId":53917,"journal":{"name":"West 86th-A Journal of Decorative Arts Design History and Material Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45569580","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":":Abbatt Toys: Modern Toys for Modern Children","authors":"Amy F. Ogata","doi":"10.1086/724707","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1086/724707","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":53917,"journal":{"name":"West 86th-A Journal of Decorative Arts Design History and Material Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48643033","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Editor’s Introduction","authors":"P. Stirton","doi":"10.1086/724695","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1086/724695","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":53917,"journal":{"name":"West 86th-A Journal of Decorative Arts Design History and Material Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43354040","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":":Extinct: A Compendium of Obsolete Objects","authors":"Charles Parley","doi":"10.1086/724711","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1086/724711","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":53917,"journal":{"name":"West 86th-A Journal of Decorative Arts Design History and Material Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43233583","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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