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STUDY OF RIB KNITS COURSEWISE TENSILE PROCESS 罗纹织物拉伸过程的研究
Pub Date : 2022-08-01 DOI: 10.15240/tul/008/2022-2-002
Tetiana Yelina, L. Halavska, S. Bobrova, N. Lytvynenko, Tetiana Dzykovych
Stretchability of knitwear is one of the most important factors of wearing comfort. Elasticity of knitted structures in course wise direction is usually higher than along wales and often characterized by crosswise shrinkage. Existing methods of knitting program development do not consider the real rate of wale wise shrinkage of rib knitted structure under the course wise extension. During the study experimental research has been carried out to fulfill empirical data on the relationship between samples’ length and width under uniaxial course wise elongation. A range of samples of rib 1×1, 2×2, 3×3, 4×4 and 5×5 knits, made of cotton, bamboo, polyacrylonitrile (PAN), wool/acrylic blend and wool yarn, were stretched with a tensile machine WDW-05M. In the process of stretching the width of each specimen was defined in the moments of extension by 50, 100, 150, 200, 250 and 300 per cent. It has been found that linear approximation can be applied to describe the dependence of specimen’s width on its relative course wise elongation. It was found that the stitch height/width ratio changes unevenly. In the beginning of the process of course wise stretching of a rib knitted structure, it does exist, such an interval, where an increase of the knit’s linear size along the courses occurs without a significant shrinkage in the wale wise direction. It is suggested to name the upper limit of this interval as “unidimensional extension limit” and define it as an extension of a standard (100×50mm) specimen, at which its width decreases by 10%. It was found as well that the value of this index significantly depends on the ribbing variation and much less on the type of raw materials
针织品的拉伸性能是影响其穿着舒适性的重要因素之一。纬编结构在纬向上的弹性通常高于沿纬向的弹性,且常以横向收缩为特征。现有的编制程序的方法没有考虑到罗纹针织结构在径伸作用下的实际径缩率。在研究过程中,进行了实验研究,验证了单轴方向延伸下试样长度与宽度关系的经验数据。用WDW-05M拉伸机对棉、竹、聚丙烯腈(PAN)、羊毛/腈纶混纺和毛纱制成的一系列罗纹1×1、2×2、3×3、4×4和5×5织物进行拉伸。在拉伸过程中,每个试样的宽度被定义为50%、100%、150%、2000%、250%和300%的拉伸力矩。已经发现,线性近似可以用来描述试样的宽度对其相对方向延伸的依赖。结果表明,针高/针宽比变化不均匀。在罗纹编织结构的纵向拉伸过程的开始阶段,确实存在这样一个间隔,在这个间隔中,织物的线性尺寸沿纵向增加,而在纵向上没有明显的收缩。建议将该区间的上限命名为“一维扩展极限”,并将其定义为标准(100×50mm)试件的扩展,其宽度减小10%。还发现,该指数的值很大程度上取决于棱纹变化,而对原材料类型的影响较小
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引用次数: 1
APPLICATION OF JBATIK TECHNOLOGY IN THE DEVELOPMENT OF MOTIF DESIGN FOR TRADITIONAL BATIK CRAFTSMEN 蜡染技术在传统蜡染工匠图案设计发展中的应用
Pub Date : 2022-08-01 DOI: 10.15240/tul/008/2022-2-004
F. Ciptandi, M. Rosandini, Muhamad Lukman
This participatory action study is aimed at identifying the adaptation level of traditional batik craftsmen in developing batik motif designs using jBatik software technology. The research participants consist of 10 traditional batik craftsmen, three from the innovators group and seven from the adopters group located in Kerek District, Tuban Regency, East Java Province, Indonesia. The application of jBatik technology will be carried out using the Diffusion of Innovation theory which divides the process stages into 5, namely the knowledge stage, persuasion stage, decision stage, implementation stage, and confirmation stage. The results of the theory application resulted in 4 things. First the knowledge about various social system variables and the characteristics of the innovation recipients. Second, the design of the communication model to include knowledge about the innovation of batik motif design as a result of the JBatik software. Third, the results of the simulation of the application of batik motif designs produced by the jBatik software with craftsmen. Fourth, validation of the simulation results of the application of batik motif design innovations by craftsmen by people who had the ability to measure the level of absorption of innovation, so that the level of adaptation of traditional craftsmen to the technological challenges of the jbatik device could be identified. This study contributes to determining the level of knowledge and basic skills possessed by traditional batik craftsmen to serve as a starting point in deciding innovation strategies to be solutions that can be implemented by them.
本参与性行动研究旨在确定传统蜡染工匠在使用jBatik软件技术开发蜡染图案设计时的适应水平。研究参与者包括10名传统蜡染工匠,其中3名来自创新者组,7名来自印度尼西亚东爪哇省图班县Kerek区的采纳者组。j蜡染技术的应用将采用创新扩散理论进行,该理论将过程阶段分为5个阶段,即知识阶段、说服阶段、决策阶段、实施阶段和确认阶段。理论应用的结果导致了4件事。首先是对各种社会制度变量和创新接受者特征的认识。其次,设计沟通模型,包括知识的创新蜡染图案设计作为JBatik软件的结果。第三,模拟应用jBatik软件制作的蜡染图案图案与工匠的效果。第四,由有能力测量创新吸收程度的人对工匠蜡染图案设计创新应用的仿真结果进行验证,从而识别传统工匠对蜡染装置技术挑战的适应程度。本研究有助于确定传统蜡染工匠的知识水平和基本技能,作为确定创新策略的起点,作为他们可以实施的解决方案。
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引用次数: 0
DETERMINATION OF TENSION FOR ARAMID AND CARBON YARNS WHILE WEAVING INDUSTRIAL FABRICS 织造工业织物时芳纶和碳纱张力的测定
Pub Date : 2022-03-01 DOI: 10.15240/tul/008/2022-1-007
V. Shcherban’, Oksana Kolysko, G. Melnyk, Marijna Kolysko, Y. Shcherban, Ganna Shchutska
Resulting from researches conducted to determine tension for para-aramid, meta-aramid, and carbon multifilament yarns during their contact with the operative parts of the weaving looms as part of the industrial fabrics formation process, we have found out that in threading areas the tension is increasing driven by variation of values of the friction forces in the contact area. It has been proven that tension degree of para-aramid, meta-aramid, and carbon multifilament yarns before industrial fabric formation area is influenced by (1) tension before cylindrical guide surface of an operative part, (2) radius of the cylindrical guide surface curve of the operative part, (3) contact angle between yarns and cylindrical guide surface of an operative part, (4) mechanical, physical and structural properties of para-aramid, metaaramid, and carbon multifilament yarns. It allowed (yet at the initial stage of design of technological process of industrial fabric formation) to determine para-aramid, meta-aramid, and carbon multifilament yarns tension before formation area depending on (1) form of threading line for yarns at the weaving loom, (2) mechanical, physical and structural properties of para-aramid, meta-aramid, and carbon multifilament yarns and industrial fabrics. The paper contains experimental research of interaction of para-aramid, metaaramid, and carbon multifilament yarns and cylindrical guide surfaces of the operative parts of automatic weaving looms. Based on experimental researches regression dependencies have been obtained between para-aramid, meta-aramid, and carbon multifilament yarns tension value after cylindrical guide surfaces of the operative part and (1) tension before cylindrical guide surface of the operative part, (2) radius of the cylindrical guide surface curve of the operative part, (3) contact angle between yarns and cylindrical guide surface of the operative part. Consecutive application of these regression dependencies allows to determine para-aramid, meta-aramid, and carbon multifilament yarns tension before industrial fabrics formation area. Analysis of regression dependencies allowed to find out values of technological parameters when para-aramid, meta-aramid, and carbon multifilament yarns tension before industrial fabrics formation area will be of minimum value. It will allow to minimize tension of para-aramid, metaaramid, and carbon multifilament yarns while manufacturing resulting in (1) yarn breakages reduction, (2) better productivity of weaving looms due to reduced stoppage time, (3) improved quality of manufactured industrial fabrics. Therefore, we can argue that suggested technological solutions are practically attractive. In view of this, it is reasonable to say that it is possible to directionally regulate the process of para-aramid, meta-aramid, and carbon multifilament yarns tension change while manufacturing industrial fabrics on the weaving looms through selection of values of guides’ geometrical parameters
在工业织物成型过程中,对对芳纶、间位芳纶和碳复合长丝纱线与织机操作部件接触时的张力进行了研究,发现在穿线区域,张力随着接触区域摩擦力值的变化而增加。研究表明,对芳纶、间位芳纶和碳复合长丝纱线在工业织物形成区域前的张力程度受以下因素的影响:(1)作用部分圆柱导向面前的张力,(2)作用部分圆柱导向面曲线半径,(3)纱线与作用部分圆柱导向面接触角,(4)对芳纶、间位芳纶和碳复合长丝纱线的力学、物理和结构性能。它允许(但在工业织物成型工艺设计的初始阶段)根据(1)织布机上纱线的穿线形式,(2)对芳纶、间位芳纶和碳复合长丝和工业织物的机械、物理和结构性能来确定对芳纶、间位芳纶和碳复合长丝纱线在成型前的张力区域。本文对对芳纶、间芳纶和碳复合长丝纱线与自动织布机工作部件圆柱形导轨表面的相互作用进行了实验研究。在实验研究的基础上,得到了对芳纶、间位芳纶和碳复合长丝纱线在手术部位圆柱形导向面后的张力值和(1)手术部位圆柱形导向面前的张力,(2)手术部位圆柱形导向面曲线半径,(3)纱线与手术部位圆柱形导向面接触角之间的回归依赖关系。这些回归依赖关系的连续应用允许在工业织物形成区域之前确定对芳纶,间芳纶和碳多长丝纱线的张力。通过回归相关性分析,可以找出对芳纶、间位芳纶和碳复合长丝在工业织物形成区域前张力最小时的工艺参数值。在生产过程中,它将使对芳纶、间芳纶和碳复合长丝纱线的张力降到最低,从而实现(1)减少纱线破损;(2)由于减少停机时间而提高织布机的生产率;(3)提高生产的工业织物的质量。因此,我们可以说,建议的技术解决方案实际上是有吸引力的。因此,我们有理由认为,在织布机上制造工业织物时,通过导向器几何参数值的选择,可以定向调节对芳纶、间芳纶和碳复合长丝的张力变化过程。
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引用次数: 0
INFLUENCE OF ANTISTATIC POLYESTER FIBERS ON THE PROPERTIES OF COTTON AND POLYESTER SINGLE JERSEY KNITTED FABRICS 抗静电涤纶纤维对棉、涤针织单纬织物性能的影响
Pub Date : 2022-03-01 DOI: 10.15240/tul/008/2022-1-002
Norina Asfand, S. A. Basra, V. Daukantienė, H. Jamshaid, Zulfiqar Ali
In this research, the influence of the antistatic polyester fibers containing carbon black on the comfort properties of 100% and blended cotton as well as on 100% and blended polyester single jersey knitted fabrics was evaluated. The research results revealed that the behavior of the investigated knitted fabrics was dependent on their structure and mechanical characteristics. The electrical resistance of knitted fabrics decreased significantly due to the use of 4% antistatic polyester fibers. The electrical resistance of the pure and blended cotton knitted fabric was lower than that of the pure and blended polyester knitted fabrics. Antistatic polyester fibers positively influenced the air permeability of the polyester knitted fabric. The air permeability of 100% and blended cotton fabrics was approximately 3.5 times compared to both 100% and blended polyester fabrics, respectively. The carbon black polyester fibers influenced the decrease in thermal resistance, the increase in vapor permeability, and the minor increase in vapor resistance of both cotton and polyester knitted fabrics. Thermal resistance was lower, water vapor resistance was significantly higher, and relative water vapor permeability was slightly lower for the cotton and cotton/antistatic polyester knitted fabrics than for the polyester and polyester / antistatic polyester knitted fabrics, respectively. Therefore, the research results revealed that the presence of 4% antistatic polyester fibers in cotton and polyester knitted fabrics positively influenced their antistatic behavior and improved or almost did not alter their comfort properties.
研究了含炭黑抗静电涤纶纤维对纯棉和混纺棉织物舒适性的影响,以及对纯棉和混纺棉织物舒适性的影响。研究结果表明,所研究的针织物的性能取决于其结构和力学特性。由于使用4%抗静电聚酯纤维,针织物的电阻明显降低。纯棉和混纺针织物的电阻低于纯棉和混纺涤纶针织物的电阻。涤纶抗静电纤维对涤纶针织物的透气性有积极的影响。100%纯棉和混纺织物的透气性分别是100%和混纺涤纶织物的3.5倍左右。炭黑涤纶纤维对棉、涤纶针织物的热阻降低,透气性增加,透气性略有增加。棉和棉/抗静电涤纶针织物的热阻较低,水蒸气阻明显高于涤纶针织物,相对水蒸气渗透率略低于涤纶针织物和涤纶/抗静电涤纶针织物。因此,研究结果表明,在棉和涤针织物中添加4%的抗静电聚酯纤维对其抗静电性能有积极的影响,并改善或几乎没有改变其舒适性。
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引用次数: 1
FEATURES OF THE PRIMARY PREPARATION OF HEMP STRAW STALKS SUITABLE FOR OBTAINING CELLULOSECONTAINING MATERIALS AND PAPER 适于获得含纤维素材料和纸张的大麻秸秆初级制备的特点
Pub Date : 2022-03-01 DOI: 10.15240/tul/008/2022-1-006
S. Putintseva, Anastasiia Tikhosova, Vira Krahlyk, Artem Kapitonov
The features of the primary preparation of hemp straw stalks suitable for obtaining cellulosecontaining materials and paper are considered in the article. The primary processes of the preparation of hemp raw materials for pulp production, which include harvesting, storage of straw stalks, transportation, and primary processing of raw materials suitable for obtaining cellulose-containing materials, are described. Methods of shortening stems and fibers applied in the pulping process are studied in detail. Technological methods of shortening straw stalks of technical hemp and cleaning raw materials from grains and garbage impurities are mentioned. The necessity of applying the processes of stalks crushing and wet purification of chopped straw stalks of technical hemp is proved.
论述了适用于含纤维素材料和造纸的大麻秸秆初级制备工艺的特点。描述了制备用于纸浆生产的大麻原料的主要过程,包括收获、秸秆储存、运输和适合获得含纤维素材料的原料的初级加工。详细研究了在制浆过程中缩短茎段和纤维的方法。介绍了缩短工业大麻秸秆的工艺方法以及原料中颗粒和垃圾杂质的净化。论证了应用工业大麻秸秆碎秆湿法净化工艺的必要性。
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引用次数: 0
COLOR PERCEPTION ESTIMATIONS OF METAMERIC PAIRS UNDER DIFFERENT ILLUMINANCE LEVELS 不同照度下同色光对的色觉估计
Pub Date : 2022-03-01 DOI: 10.15240/tul/008/2022-1-005
A. Mukthy, Michal Vik, M. Viková
LEDs or light emitting diodes of the lighting class dominate both the indoor and outdoor lighting industries today due to their accuracy and consumer-friendly color temperature. In the context of color science, it is necessary to analyze both the spectral power distribution of lighting and the human characteristics of color perception under these lights. In this article, we provide estimates of the appearance of eleven metameric pairs under LEDs with four correlated color temperatures and six illuminance levels, using color difference formulas based on the CIELAB, CAM02-UCS, and CAM16-UCS models to verify our estimates. We followed ASTM D4086 standard visual methods for detecting metamerism and for estimating the magnitude of a metameric color difference. Our investigations found that color appearance models are more reliable than CIELAB in evaluating color difference under various LED conditions. CAM16-UCS more accurately predicted the color difference estimates between all three formulas. Our comparative study confirms that the variation in the estimates with the CCT and illuminance levels of the LED sources depends on the color appearance model used. The results also showed that in order to determine the color difference of metameric pairs, optimal conditions regarding the colorimetric properties of the samples and the variability of the observer should be considered separately. We noticed an increasing correlation trend with increasing illuminance. However, there was no such increase or decrease trend in CCTs. The trend of the STRESS change in the color appearance models showed the influence of the chromatic adaptation, but the establishment of adaptation patterns is far beyond the scope of this work. Although our research has had limitations on correlated color temperature and illuminance, we believe that it can be beneficial for the lighting application to ensure correct lighting decisions when assessing the color differences of metameric pairs.
led或照明类的发光二极管由于其准确性和消费者友好的色温,在当今的室内和室外照明行业中占据主导地位。在色彩科学的背景下,有必要分析照明的光谱功率分布和人类在这些光线下的色彩感知特征。在本文中,我们使用基于CIELAB、CAM02-UCS和CAM16-UCS模型的色差公式,对具有4种相关色温和6个照度水平的led下的11对异聚光对的外观进行了估计,以验证我们的估计。我们遵循ASTM D4086标准视觉方法来检测异谱和估计异谱色差的大小。我们的调查发现,颜色外观模型在评估各种LED条件下的色差方面比CIELAB更可靠。CAM16-UCS更准确地预测了三种公式之间的色差估计。我们的比较研究证实,随着CCT和LED光源的照度水平,估计的变化取决于所使用的颜色外观模型。结果还表明,为了确定异聚对的色差,应分别考虑样品的比色特性和观察者的可变性的最佳条件。我们注意到随着照度的增加,相关系数呈增加趋势。然而,在cct中没有这种增加或减少的趋势。颜色外观模型的应力变化趋势显示了颜色适应的影响,但适应模式的建立远远超出了本工作的范围。虽然我们的研究在相关色温和照度方面存在局限性,但我们相信,在评估同色差对时,确保正确的照明决策对照明应用是有益的。
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引用次数: 1
INVESTIGATION OF ANTIMICROBIAL PROPERTIES OF TEXTILE MATERIALS AFTER WASHING 纺织材料洗涤后抗菌性能的研究
Pub Date : 2022-03-01 DOI: 10.15240/tul/008/2022-1-004
Irina Martirosyan, O. Pakholiuk, G. Golodyuk, Viktoria Lutskova, V. Lubenets
This work is devoted to the study of antimicrobial properties of cellulose-containing textile materials treated with new safe biocidal products of thiosulfonate structure. A resource-saving method of providing antimicrobial properties to cellulose-containing textile materials is presented. High antimicrobial activity of biocidal products after washing was established. The duration of action and expediency of their use in the textile industry are proved. It is shown that after 10 washes the treated tissues lose only 14-15% of antimicrobial properties.
本文研究了巯基磺酸盐结构的新型安全杀菌剂处理含纤维素纺织材料的抗菌性能。提出了一种为含纤维素纺织材料提供抗菌性能的资源节约方法。经水洗后的杀菌剂具有较高的抗菌活性。证明了它们在纺织工业中的作用持续时间和使用的方便性。结果表明,经过10次洗涤后,处理过的纸巾仅损失14-15%的抗菌性能。
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引用次数: 0
EFFECT OF MECHANICAL CRIMP OF JUTE FIBRE ON THE THERMAL PROPERTIES OF WOVEN FABRICS 黄麻纤维机械卷曲对机织物热性能的影响
Pub Date : 2022-03-01 DOI: 10.15240/tul/008/2022-1-001
Shilpi Akter, M. Motalab, M. Helali
The aim of this paper is to find the effect of mechanical crimp of jute fibre on the thermal properties of woven jute fabrics. In this study, crimp box and gear crimping method were used to impart mechanical crimp into jute sliver. Crimps were divulged to enhance the cohesion between fibres that make it suitable for spinning. Jute yarns were produced by inserting a different number of crimps and woven fabrics were produced by using these yarns. Fabric thickness, porosity, air permeability and thermal conductivity tests were done according to standard method and found that fabric porosity, air permeability and thermal conductivity of the fabric decreased and fabric thickness increased with the increased number of crimps and fabrics from gear crimping method showed better effect than that of crimp box method. The study on jute woven fabric will provide quantitative experimental data for potential applications with advantages of lightweight, cost-effective, easy to manufacture, biodegradable and excellent mechanical properties.
研究了黄麻纤维的机械卷曲对机制黄麻织物热性能的影响。本文采用卷曲箱和齿轮卷曲法对黄麻条进行机械卷曲。卷曲是为了增强纤维之间的凝聚力,使其适合纺纱。在黄麻纱线中加入不同数量的褶,制成机织物。按照标准方法对织物的厚度、孔隙率、透气性和导热系数进行了测试,发现随着卷曲次数的增加,织物的孔隙率、透气性和导热系数降低,织物厚度增加,齿轮卷曲法的织物效果优于卷曲箱法。对黄麻机织物的研究,将为其轻质、经济、易制造、可生物降解、力学性能优异的潜在应用提供定量的实验数据。
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引用次数: 1
PECULIARITIES OF FUNCTIONING AND DIAGNOSTICS OF CROSS-SECTORAL ECONOMIC LINKS OF THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY OF UKRAINE 乌克兰纺织业跨部门经济联系的功能特点和诊断
Pub Date : 2022-03-01 DOI: 10.15240/tul/008/2022-1-003
S. Ishchuk, L. Sozanskyy
The analysis of cross-sectoral links and their comparative assessments identified the main problems of development of the textile industry of Ukraine. These include: high dependence on imported raw materials and components, low price competitiveness of Ukrainian textile industry products in the domestic market, the concentration of a significant part of production on the production of toll raw materials, imports of used clothing and footwear, cross-sectoral imbalance of Ukrainian textile industry. In particular, it is determined that the products of the textile industry in general, consumed by the Ukrainian economy are almost 60% covered by imports. Products used by the textile industry in their activities (costs) are covered by imports by a total of 49%. Ways to solve the identified problems and, thus, to optimize cross-sectoral linksships are proposed.
对跨部门联系的分析及其比较评估确定了乌克兰纺织工业发展的主要问题。这些问题包括:对进口原材料和部件的高度依赖,乌克兰纺织工业产品在国内市场上的价格竞争力低,生产的很大一部分集中于生产收费原材料,进口二手服装和鞋类,乌克兰纺织工业的跨部门不平衡。特别是,确定乌克兰经济消费的纺织工业产品总体上几乎60%由进口覆盖。纺织工业在其活动中使用的产品(成本)由进口支付,总额为49%。提出了解决已确定问题的方法,从而优化跨部门联系。
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引用次数: 0
THE PROCESS OF MAKING BATIK AND THE DEVELOPMENT OF INDONESIAN BAKARAN MOTIFS 蜡染的制作过程和印尼巴卡兰图案的发展
Pub Date : 2022-03-01 DOI: 10.15240/tul/008/2022-1-008
S. Supriyadi, N. S. Prameswari
Batik is one of the original handicrafts recognized by UNESCO as Indonesia's cultural heritage. Therefore, this research aims to explore the development of good quality innovative Indonesian batik designs for Micro, Small Medium Enterprise (MSMEs). This is practice based research with data collected through observation and interviews. The result showed that the designs of Bakaran motifs contain elements of the Pati city history, Central Java, Indonesia. The making of batik motif in this research also went through digitalization process for the efficiency of making the next batik. Therefore, the international community is expected to determine the beginning and ending process used by Micro, Small Medium Enterprise (MSMEs) craftsmen in producing good quality batik. Further research needs to be carried out to explore the development of batik Bakaran designs using Druju (Acanthus ilicifolius) flower motifs.
蜡染是联合国教科文组织认定为印尼文化遗产的原始手工艺品之一。因此,本研究旨在探索为中小微企业(MSMEs)开发优质创新印尼蜡染设计。这是一项基于实践的研究,通过观察和访谈收集数据。结果表明,巴卡兰图案的设计包含了印度尼西亚中爪哇帕蒂城历史的元素。本研究中蜡染图案的制作也经过了数字化处理,以提高下一次蜡染的制作效率。因此,国际社会期望确定微型和中小型企业(MSMEs)工匠在生产高质量蜡染时使用的开始和结束过程。进一步的研究需要进行,以探索蜡染巴卡兰设计的发展,利用朱竹(Acanthus ilicifolius)花图案。
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引用次数: 2
期刊
Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe
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