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Design Expression of “Chinese-style” Costumes in the Context of Globalization 全球化背景下“中国式”服装的设计表现
IF 0.9 4区 工程技术 Q3 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2023-07-01 DOI: 10.2478/ftee-2023-0019
Chunhui Song, Haiying Zhao, Aidong Men, Xiaoyue Liang
Abstract The purpose of this study is to discuss how “Chinese-style” clothing is integrated into the international fashion market by applying traditional Chinese clothing design elements in the context of globalization. This research defined four design elements of traditional Chinese clothing through literature analysis, which mainly consisted of colors, silhouettes, fabrics and crafts. Then professional researchers selected four representative enterprises oriented to the international market from a large quantity of “Chinese-style” enterprises and compared the design works officially released by the four “Chinese-style” enterprises with the four design elements by Nvivo12. Through analyzing 1,176 pieces of Chinese-style design works of the four representative enterprises, the study found that “Chinese-style” enterprises oriented to the international market comprehensively apply traditional Chinese clothing design elements to conduct innovative design to show their own cultural identities to a large extent.
摘要本研究的目的是探讨在全球化背景下,如何运用中国传统服装设计元素,将“中国式”服装融入国际时尚市场。本研究通过文献分析确定了中国传统服装的四大设计元素,主要包括色彩、轮廓、面料和工艺。然后,专业研究人员从大量的“中国式”企业中选取了四家面向国际市场的代表性企业,并将这四家“中国式”企业正式发布的设计作品与Nvivo12的四种设计元素进行对比。通过分析四家代表性企业的1176件中式设计作品,研究发现,面向国际市场的“中式”企业综合运用中国传统服装设计元素进行创新设计,在很大程度上体现了自身的文化认同。
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引用次数: 0
Research on the Performance of Polypyrrole Coated Conductive Fabrics Prepared from Different Base Materials 不同基材制备聚吡咯涂层导电织物性能的研究
IF 0.9 4区 工程技术 Q3 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2023-07-01 DOI: 10.2478/ftee-2023-0018
Yuanjun Liu, Huangyu Xue, Yanyan Liu, Jiaqi Zhao, Haiying Wu, Xiaoming Zhao
Abstract In this paper, polypyrrole coated conductive fabrics were prepared using pyrrole as the monomer, p-toluene sulfonic acid as the doping agent and ammonium persulfate as the oxidant, adopting the simple method of situ polymerization of the liquid phase. Six types of conductive polypyrrole coated fabrics were prepared adopting polyester-cotton blended fabrics, nylon fabrics, wool fabrics, silk fabrics, basalt fabrics and aramid fabric respectively as base materials and using the same process conditions; its electrical conductivity was compared, and the distribution and resistance of the washing fastness of polypyrrole on the surface of those fabrics were studied. Results showed that under the same process conditions, the conductivity of polypyrrole coated terylene fabrics was the best, followed by the polypyrrole coated nylon fabrics and polypyrrole coated wool fabrics. Observed by electron microscope, the distribution of polypyrrole was more homogeneous on different base cloths. After washing, it was concluded that the combination fastness of polypyrrole with polyester-cotton, nylon and wool was better, while the combination fastness of polypyrrole with basalt and aramid was poor.
摘要本文以吡咯为单体,对甲苯磺酸为掺杂剂,过硫酸铵为氧化剂,采用简单的液相原位聚合法制备了聚吡咯涂层导电织物。以涤棉混纺织物、尼龙织物、羊毛织物、真丝织物、玄武岩织物和芳纶织物为基料,在相同的工艺条件下,分别制备了6种导电聚吡咯涂层织物;比较了其电导率,研究了聚吡咯在织物表面的分布和耐洗涤牢度。结果表明,在相同的工艺条件下,聚吡咯涂层涤纶织物的导电性能最好,其次是聚吡咯涂层尼龙织物和聚吡咯涂层羊毛织物。电镜观察发现,聚吡咯在不同基布上的分布较为均匀。洗涤后得出聚吡咯与涤棉、尼龙、羊毛的结合牢度较好,而与玄武岩、芳纶的结合牢度较差。
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引用次数: 0
Application and Parametric Design of Line Visual Illusion Graphics in Clothing 线视觉错觉图形在服装中的应用及参数化设计
IF 0.9 4区 工程技术 Q3 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2023-07-01 DOI: 10.2478/ftee-2023-0017
Yixin Zou, Yan Wang, D. Luh
Abstract This research adopted literature analysis methods to explain the principles and types of line illusion and, secondly, using Grasshopper software generated some fashion design samples with visual illusion element application. Then semantic analysis was applied to investigate audiences’ cognition, with the aim to improve the design. Lastly, Grasshopper software was used to generate new design patterns by changing the set of generated points through algorithm operation and dotted line interference to change the presented linear illusion forms and patterns. The results of this research show that with the support of parametric technology, the opportunities and space for creating line elements in clothing will be further expanded, enabling that real-time pattern or apparel design changes, and adjustments can be realized by parameter variable controlling. The research comprised a new attempt at combining linear visual illusion, fashion design and parametric design, showing the content and design case studies for relevant research in this area.
摘要本研究采用文献分析的方法来解释线条错觉的原理和类型,其次,利用Grasshopper软件生成了一些具有视觉错觉元素应用的时装设计样本。然后运用语义分析的方法对观众的认知进行调查,以期改进设计。最后,利用Grasshopper软件通过算法运算和虚线干涉改变生成点集,从而改变所呈现的线性错觉形式和图案,从而生成新的设计图案。研究结果表明,在参数化技术的支持下,服装中创建线条元素的机会和空间将进一步扩大,使图案或服装设计的实时变化和调整可以通过参数变量控制来实现。本研究将线性视觉错觉、服装设计和参数化设计相结合,展示了该领域相关研究的内容和设计案例。
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引用次数: 1
Research on the Knittability of Metallic Yarns in the Warp-knitted Mesh of a Deployable Antenna 金属纱在可展开天线经编网中的可编织性研究
IF 0.9 4区 工程技术 Q3 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2023-07-01 DOI: 10.2478/ftee-2023-0015
Xu Haiyan, Chen Nanliang, Jiang Jinhua
Abstract Metallic yarns are difficult to be knitted. To resolve the problem, the paper used the knitted yarn strength utilization factor to quantitatively characterize knittability, which was the ratio of yarn strength after being knitted to that of the original yarns. Furthermore, the relationship between the yarns' basic mechanical properties and the knitted yarn strength utilization factor was investigated by testing the yarns' basic mechanical properties. The results showed that it was feasible to quantitatively characterize the yarns' knittability using the knitted yarn strength utilization factor. And also the breaking strength of yarn was not correlated with the knittability. The elongation at break of the yarn was positively correlated with knittability. The bending stiffness of the yarn was negatively correlated with the knittability. Finally, a multiple linear regression model of the knittability and the mechanical properties of the yarn was developed. The model showed that there was a significant linear relationship between knittability and the elongation of yarns at break and the bending rigidity of yarns, with the bending stiffness of yarns being more significant.
金属纱是一种较难针织的纱线。为了解决这一问题,本文采用针织纱线强度利用系数,即针织后纱线强度与原纱线强度之比,来定量表征针织性。通过对纱线基本力学性能的测试,探讨了纱线基本力学性能与针织纱线强力利用系数的关系。结果表明,用针织纱线强度利用系数定量表征纱线的可针织性是可行的。纱线的断裂强度与针织物的可针织性无关。纱线的断裂伸长率与可针织性呈正相关。纱线的弯曲刚度与针织性能呈负相关。最后,建立了纱线的可针织性与力学性能的多元线性回归模型。模型表明,纱线的可针织性与纱线的断裂伸长率和纱线的弯曲刚度之间存在显著的线性关系,其中纱线的弯曲刚度更为显著。
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引用次数: 0
Textile Industry Efficiency in Eastern European Countries 东欧国家纺织工业的效率
IF 0.9 4区 工程技术 Q3 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2023-07-01 DOI: 10.2478/ftee-2023-0020
A. Ova
Abstract In the global world where competition is increasing constantly, efficient use of resources is becoming more important for the textile industry. In this study, the efficiency scores and inefficiency effects of the textile industry in selected Eastern European countries were investigated using stochastic frontier analysis. The results indicate that age has a negative impact on inefficiency in the Czech Republic and Hungary. The current ratio decreases the inefficiency in Slovakia, Poland and Hungary, while time decreases that in Slovakia, the Czech Republic and Hungary.
在竞争日益激烈的全球化世界中,高效利用资源对纺织行业来说变得越来越重要。本文采用随机前沿分析的方法,对东欧国家纺织工业的效率得分和低效率效应进行了研究。结果表明,年龄对捷克共和国和匈牙利的效率低下有负面影响。流动比率降低了斯洛伐克、波兰和匈牙利的低效率,而时间比率降低了斯洛伐克、捷克和匈牙利的低效率。
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引用次数: 0
Camouflage Assessments with Digital Pattern Painting Based on the Multi-Scale Pattern-in-Picture Evaluation Model 基于多尺度图案评价模型的数字图案伪装评价
IF 0.9 4区 工程技术 Q3 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2023-05-26 DOI: 10.2478/ftee-2023-0014
Qi Jia, Weidong Xu, Yang Yi, Jun Liu, J. Hu, Liyan Zhu, Xin Yang
Abstract In general, traditional evaluations of target camouflage effects are usually conducted based on observational data and general results of statistical analysis. This widely applied methodology quantifies the detection and identification probabilities of camouflage objects but has considerable shortcomings. This data evaluation process is laborious and time-consuming and very low in reproducibility, which sheds light on the necessity of developing a more efficient method in this study field. The growth of computer-aided image processing technology provides technical support for camouflage effect evaluation based on digital image processing. Digital pattern painting, which has been previously applied to combat utility uniforms, is a new methodology full of potential due to its broad geographical adaptability. This study proposes a multi-scale pattern-in-picture method to evaluate camouflage effects at different distances. We also established a computer-aided background image library and camouflage assessments with digital simulation and created an evaluation system that could be effectively applied to combat utility uniforms. More than 40 testers participated in this study, who were asked to score the designed camouflage schemes using the evaluation system proposed. The data from simulation assessments and individual evaluations show that the computer-aided simulation assessments conducted as part of this research can efficiently and objectively evaluate the camouflage effect on military objects.
摘要通常,传统的目标伪装效果评估通常基于观测数据和统计分析的一般结果。这种广泛应用的方法量化了伪装物体的检测和识别概率,但存在相当大的缺点。这种数据评估过程费时费力,再现性极低,这说明有必要在该研究领域开发一种更有效的方法。计算机辅助图像处理技术的发展为基于数字图像处理的伪装效果评估提供了技术支持。数字图案绘制是一种新的方法,由于其广泛的地理适应性,它以前曾被应用于作战通用制服,是一种充满潜力的方法。本研究提出了一种多尺度图中模式方法来评估不同距离下的伪装效果。我们还建立了一个计算机辅助背景图像库和数字模拟伪装评估,并创建了一个可以有效应用于作战通用制服的评估系统。40多名测试人员参与了这项研究,他们被要求使用所提出的评估系统对设计的伪装方案进行评分。模拟评估和个体评估的数据表明,作为本研究的一部分进行的计算机辅助模拟评估可以有效、客观地评估军事目标的伪装效果。
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引用次数: 0
Comparative Analysis of Western Ukrainian and Lithuanian Folk Towels 乌克兰西部和立陶宛民间毛巾的比较分析
IF 0.9 4区 工程技术 Q3 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2023-05-08 DOI: 10.2478/ftee-2023-0013
E. Kumpikaitė, Olena Nykorak, Erika Nenartavičiūtė, Ludmyla Herus, Tetiana Kutsyr, D. Milašienė, O. Kozakevych, Ž. Rukuižienė
Abstract A comparative analysis of traditional western Ukrainian and Lithuanian towels provides rich material for new creative inspirations, as well as diversification of individual and mass-produced interior textiles, and also visualizes historical ties between the two countries. Therefore, the objective of the article is to analyse the weaving techniques that prevail in the creation of towel decor, to determine the artistic and stylistic parameters of Ukrainian and Lithuanian towels and to establish the common and unique features of their decor. The techniques of plain and twill weaving, the latter of which could obtain simple textured patterns on the canvas, were widespread in both countries. Various weaving compositions were obtained by the pick-up techniques of weaving, the overshot, and the damask weaving technique, which was much more widespread in Lithuania than in the western part of Ukraine.
摘要对乌克兰和立陶宛传统西方毛巾的比较分析为新的创作灵感以及个性化和批量生产的室内纺织品的多样化提供了丰富的素材,也可视化了两国之间的历史联系。因此,本文的目的是分析毛巾装饰创作中盛行的编织技术,确定乌克兰和立陶宛毛巾的艺术和风格参数,并确定其装饰的共同和独特特征。平纹和斜纹编织技术在两国都很普遍,后者可以在画布上获得简单的纹理图案。通过织造的拾取技术、套鞋和锦缎织造技术获得了各种织造成分,这种织造技术在立陶宛比在乌克兰西部更为广泛。
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引用次数: 0
Development of a Mobile Application to Study Sewing Techniques for Manufacturing Fur and Leather Clothes 开发一个移动应用程序来研究制造毛皮和皮衣的缝纫技术
IF 0.9 4区 工程技术 Q3 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2023-04-29 DOI: 10.2478/ftee-2023-0011
O. Zakharkevich, O. Paraska, Julia Koshevko, G. Shvets, Alexander V. Shvets, T. Zhylenko
Abstract The global COVID-19 crisis has led to the international isolation of educational institutions, which have had to adapt to changing ways of presenting the information. Mobile applications are the future of the education sector, leading toward its development. The study aims to develop a mobile application to support learning the peculiarities of leather and fur garment manufacturing sewing techniques. The mobile app “TechLab” was developed by using MIT App Inventor. The article proves the effectiveness of its use in the educational space based on social surveys among teachers and students at different levels of education.
摘要全球新冠肺炎危机导致教育机构在国际上被孤立,这些机构不得不适应不断变化的信息呈现方式。移动应用程序是教育部门的未来,引领着教育部门的发展。该研究旨在开发一个移动应用程序,以支持学习皮革和毛皮服装制造缝纫技术的特点。移动应用程序“TechLab”是使用MIT应用程序Inventor开发的。本文通过对不同教育水平的教师和学生的社会调查,证明了它在教育空间中的有效性。
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引用次数: 0
Removal of Zinc Ions from Aqueous Solutions with the Use of Lignin and Biomass Part II 利用木质素和生物质去除水溶液中的锌离子(二)
IF 0.9 4区 工程技术 Q3 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2023-04-26 DOI: 10.2478/ftee-2023-0012
P. Miros-Kudra, P. Sobczak, K. Gzyra-Jagieła, M. Ciepliński
Abstract In response to the trend toward sustainable management of by-products from the pulp and paper industry as well as plant waste, practical and economical methods are being developed to use them in a way that does not pose a threat to the environment. The main aim of the research was to study the possibility of using lignin and plant biomass as biosorbents for the removal of zinc ions from aqueous solutions. The secondary aim was to build an optimal multilayer system made of biosorbents selected during the research in order to obtain the highest sorption efficiency and to determine the best conditions of the sorption process. The effectiveness of zinc ion sorption was assessed using an appropriate combination of sorbents such as lignin, oat bran, rice husk, chitosan, pectin, sodium alginate, pine bark, coconut fiber and activated carbon, selected on the basis of literature data and the preliminary results of tests carried out using FTIR and AAS. The main component of the sorption system was lignin separated from black liquor. Results indicate that the best Zn sorption system was based on coconut fiber, lignin, and pine bark, for which the maximum sorption efficiency was 95%. The research also showed that the increase in the process temperature, the mass of biosorbents used and the alkaline pH are the factors that increase the efficiency of the sorption. It can be concluded that lignin and plant biomass can be used as ecological sorbents of zinc ions from water solutions. They are safe for the environment, produced from renewable sources, and are by-products or waste materials, which is part of the sustainable development and circular economy currently promoted in the EU.
摘要为了应对纸浆和造纸工业副产品以及植物废物的可持续管理趋势,正在开发实用和经济的方法,以不对环境构成威胁的方式使用它们。本研究的主要目的是研究利用木质素和植物生物质作为生物吸附剂从水溶液中去除锌离子的可能性。第二个目标是建立一个由研究过程中选择的生物吸附剂制成的最佳多层系统,以获得最高的吸附效率并确定吸附过程的最佳条件。根据文献数据和FTIR和AAS测试的初步结果,使用合适的吸附剂组合,如木质素、燕麦麸、稻壳、壳聚糖、果胶、藻酸钠、松树皮、椰子纤维和活性炭,评估锌离子吸附的有效性。吸附系统的主要成分是从黑液中分离出的木质素。结果表明,椰子纤维、木质素和松树皮对锌的吸附效果最好,最大吸附效率为95%。研究还表明,工艺温度的升高、所用生物吸附剂的质量和碱性pH是提高吸附效率的因素。结果表明,木质素和植物生物质可以作为锌离子的生态吸附剂。它们对环境是安全的,由可再生资源生产,是副产品或废料,这是欧盟目前推动的可持续发展和循环经济的一部分。
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引用次数: 0
New ionic liquids based on the biguanide cation with antimicrobial properties for applications in the textile and polymer materials industries 具有抗菌性能的新型双胍离子液体在纺织和高分子材料工业中的应用
IF 0.9 4区 工程技术 Q3 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2023-02-01 DOI: 10.2478/ftee-2023-0002
Anna Słubik, Iwona Masłowska-Lipowicz, Ł. Wyrębska, B. Królikowski, R. Malinowski, Krzysztof Bajer
Abstract The presented article describes the method of synthesizing new ionic liquid based on a biguanide cation and a tiocyanate or benzoate anion with antimicrobial properties. The structure of obtained new ionic liquid was confirmed by infrared spectroscopy. Additionally, the article describes a simple method of producing an antibacterial textile materials and PE-based film with the addition of an ionic liquid.
摘要本文介绍了以双胍离子和具有抗菌性能的硫氰酸盐或苯甲酸盐阴离子为基础合成新型离子液体的方法。所得离子液体的结构经红外光谱证实。此外,本文还介绍了一种添加离子液体生产抗菌纺织材料和聚乙烯基薄膜的简单方法。
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引用次数: 0
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Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe
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