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SWOT Framework Based on Fuzzy Logic, AHP, and Fuzzy TOPSIS for Sustainable Retail Second-hand Clothing in Liberia 基于模糊逻辑、层次分析法和模糊TOPSIS的利比里亚二手服装可持续零售SWOT框架
IF 0.9 4区 工程技术 Q3 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2022-12-01 DOI: 10.2478/ftee-2022-0050
Peter Davis Sumo, Xiaofen Ji, Liling Cai
Abstract The fast-fashion business model is marred by high resource consumption and enormous emission of greenhouse gases. It is based on inaccurate forecasts, resulting in excess supply than demand. Globally, 85% of two-week-old garments end up as unfashionable or worn-out items that must be discarded as waste, disposed of for recycling, or donated to charities. With this colossal increase in textile waste, resource efficiency is one of the biggest challenges facing the fashion industry, which now calls for a swift implementation of a new sustainable business and consumption model to extend product life cycles. This demand for sustainable consumption encourages consumers to reuse, recycle and resell. The resell campaign known as second-hand clothing is a growing market worldwide. Current global forecasts predict a 185% increase over the next ten years, compared to FF, which will expand by just 20%. Africa is a top destination, with more than 80% of its population wearing SHCs. We contribute to this literature by assessing the significance of SHC trade in Liberia. We extend this assessment by developing a hybrid MCDM tool incorporating AHP, fuzzy logic, Ensemble, and TOPSIS to build a SWOT framework to identify criteria and sub-criteria for prioritizing SHC retailing in Liberia and Africa. Data for this study were gathered from a survey involving 100 SHC retailers from the Red-Light, Waterside, Duala, and Omega markets in Monrovia, Liberia. We identified several important factors in implementing sustainable SHC and recommended strategic directions towards their successful implementation.
摘要快速时尚的商业模式被高资源消耗和巨大的温室气体排放所破坏。这是基于不准确的预测,导致供不应求。在全球范围内,85%的两周前的服装最终成为过时或破旧的物品,必须作为废物丢弃、处理回收或捐赠给慈善机构。随着纺织品浪费的巨大增加,资源效率是时尚行业面临的最大挑战之一,时尚行业现在需要迅速实施新的可持续商业和消费模式,以延长产品生命周期。这种对可持续消费的需求鼓励消费者重复使用、回收和转售。被称为二手服装的转售活动在全球范围内是一个不断增长的市场。目前的全球预测预测,未来十年将增长185%,而FF仅增长20%。非洲是首选目的地,超过80%的人口佩戴SHCs。我们通过评估SHC贸易在利比里亚的重要性为这篇文献做出了贡献。我们通过开发一种混合MCDM工具来扩展这一评估,该工具结合了AHP、模糊逻辑、Ensemble和TOPSIS,以建立SWOT框架,确定利比里亚和非洲SHC零售业的优先标准和子标准。这项研究的数据是从一项调查中收集的,该调查涉及利比里亚蒙罗维亚红灯、Waterside、Duala和Omega市场的100家SHC零售商。我们确定了实施可持续SHC的几个重要因素,并建议了成功实施这些因素的战略方向。
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引用次数: 0
Study on the Influence of Elastic Compression Pants Elasticity and Movement Speed on Human Joint Protection 弹力紧身裤弹性和运动速度对人体关节保护影响的研究
IF 0.9 4区 工程技术 Q3 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2022-12-01 DOI: 10.2478/ftee-2022-0055
Ningfeng Zhang, Chengxia Liu
Abstract The aim of this study was to clarify how human movement speed and pants elasticity affect the athletic performance of knee joint protection by testing pants with different elastic properties: CP1 (tight pants) and CP2&CP3 (elastic compression pants), which reinforce the knee joint. In addition, CS (cotton sport pants) was developed as a control garment. Three subjects wore CP1, CP2, CP3 and CS while running on the treadmill at three kinds of human movement speed. A three-dimensional motion capture instrument was used to capture the three-dimensional trajectory of the marked points of lower limbs. As a result, the influence of the movement speed on the kinematic parameters (AKJ & gait cycle) was more obvious than the fabric elasticity. If elastic pants are worn during running, the change of AKJ will be stable with the increase of speed. When non-elastic pants are worn, the effect is opposite. Not only that, elastic compression pants are efficient in reducing the motion amplitude of the knee joint during the suspension period as far as 41°, making it highly practical in terms of stability. That is, the elastic fabric can protect the joints when the lower limbs are in motion. Moreover, with the increase of speed and elasticity, the elastic pants can reduce the gait cycle by up to 22% compared with non-elastic pants alone. Through the kinematics mechanism of human joints, these findings may translate into an effect on protective performance and a reduction in sport injuries. Therefore, it is necessary to wear elastic pants, especially compression pants, when running at higher speed, as the average gait cycle gradually decreases. This research shows that the knee joint protection functions of elastic compression garments differ according to the level of elasticity and differential movement speed, providing theoretical support for designing and producing elastic compression pants. It also acts as a guide for the research of lower limb joint protection.
摘要本研究的目的是通过测试具有不同弹性特性的增强膝关节的裤子:CP1(紧身裤)和CP2和CP3(弹性压缩裤),阐明人体运动速度和裤子弹性如何影响膝关节保护的运动性能。此外,CS(棉质运动裤)被开发为对照服装。三名受试者穿着CP1、CP2、CP3和CS在跑步机上以三种人体运动速度跑步。使用三维运动捕捉仪捕捉下肢标记点的三维轨迹。结果表明,运动速度对运动参数(AKJ和步态周期)的影响比织物弹性更明显。如果在跑步过程中穿弹性裤,AKJ的变化会随着速度的增加而稳定。当穿着无弹性的裤子时,效果相反。不仅如此,弹性紧身裤在悬吊期间有效地将膝关节的运动幅度降低了41°,使其在稳定性方面具有高度的实用性。也就是说,当下肢运动时,弹性织物可以保护关节。此外,随着速度和弹性的增加,与单独使用非弹性裤相比,弹性裤可以减少高达22%的步态周期。通过人体关节的运动学机制,这些发现可能会转化为对保护性能的影响和减少运动损伤。因此,当以更高的速度跑步时,随着平均步态周期逐渐减少,有必要穿弹性裤,尤其是紧身裤。研究表明,弹性紧身衣的膝关节保护功能因弹性水平和运动速度不同而不同,为设计和生产弹性紧身裤提供了理论支持。它也为下肢关节保护的研究提供了指导。
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引用次数: 1
Cultural Interaction: The Transformation of Textile design for Traditional Cheongsam in the Republic of China 文化互动:民国时期传统服装面料设计的转型
IF 0.9 4区 工程技术 Q3 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2022-12-01 DOI: 10.2478/ftee-2022-0049
Jingnan Zhang, Yi Zhang, Rongrong Cui
Abstract This paper aims to discuss the artistic characteristics of traditional cheongsam and the transformation that has taken place in cheongsam textile design in the Republic of China. By analysing a collection consisting of 259 traditional cheongsam material samples in various museums such as the China Silk Archives in Suzhou, we explored the transformation of cheongsam textile design during the Republic of China from the perspective of Eastern and Western art cultural exchanges and explored the spread of Western artistic thought in China. Our research shows that, firstly, with the development of industrialization, the traditional cheongsam textile business absorbed new design concepts; secondly, in terms of material selection and pattern style, it widened the range of fabrics used and broke the monotony of traditional Chinese patterns. Moreover, it reduced connotations of social class implied by traditional textile design. Finally, these textile designs reflect the progress that has been made in the development of this artistic trend and the cultural fusion of Eastern and Western arts during the Republic of China.
摘要本文旨在探讨中国传统服装的艺术特征,以及民国时期中国服装纺织品设计的变革。通过对苏州中国丝绸档案馆等多家博物馆收藏的259件传统服装材料样本的分析,我们从东西方艺术文化交流的角度探讨了民国时期中国服装面料设计的变革,并探讨了西方艺术思想在中国的传播。研究表明:一是随着工业化的发展,传统的服装纺织企业吸收了新的设计理念;其次,在选材和图案风格上,拓宽了面料的使用范围,打破了中国传统图案的单调。此外,它还减少了传统纺织品设计所隐含的社会阶层的内涵。最后,这些纺织品设计反映了民国时期这一艺术潮流的发展以及东西方艺术的文化融合所取得的进展。
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引用次数: 0
An Ergonomic Design Process of the Functional Clothing for Yoga Sports 瑜伽运动功能服的人体工学设计过程
IF 0.9 4区 工程技术 Q3 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2022-12-01 DOI: 10.2478/ftee-2022-0052
Mengmeng Zhao, Zhaoli Wang
Abstract Reports attribute many physical, psychological and mental benefits to yoga sports. However, when it comes to actual research, yoga clothing has not attracted the same level of attention. The aim of this study, which involved a questionnaire survey, clothing development and clothing performance evaluation, is to propose an ergonomic design process for the design of yoga functional clothing. Results showed that textile material was rated as the most important factor for yoga clothing. The shoulder and the waist-belly regions were considered as the most important areas for yoga clothing. The newly designed clothing prototype was observed to subject significantly lower pressure to the waist under the forward bending pose (p<0.05), but with significantly higher pressure on the buttocks at the posture of the deep knee bending pose (p<0.05). It also resulted in a lower change rate of clothing vertical displacement, especially at the shoulder and waist regions. The newly designed prototype was rated with a significantly lower tightening sensation and pulling sensation during the deep knee bending posture (p<0.05). Results indicate that proper design of yoga clothing structure and selection of fabric material could reduce clothing deformation, pressure on the skin and improve subjective wearing sensations.
有报道称瑜伽运动对身体、心理和精神都有好处。然而,当涉及到实际研究时,瑜伽服并没有引起同样程度的关注。本研究通过问卷调查、服装开发和服装性能评价,旨在为瑜伽功能服装的设计提出一个符合人体工程学的设计流程。结果表明,纺织材料被认为是瑜伽服最重要的因素。肩部和腰腹部位被认为是瑜伽服最重要的部位。新设计的服装原型在前屈体位下腰部承受的压力显著降低(p<0.05),而在深屈膝体位下臀部承受的压力显著升高(p<0.05)。这也导致服装垂直位移变化率较低,特别是在肩部和腰部。新设计的原型在深屈膝姿势时的收紧感和牵拉感明显降低(p<0.05)。结果表明,合理设计瑜伽服的结构和选择面料材料,可以减少服装变形和对皮肤的压力,提高主观穿着感觉。
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引用次数: 0
Thermoplastic Polyurethane Based on the 3d Printing Fashion Clothing-Conceptual Model of The Fashion Industry 基于热塑性聚氨酯的3d打印时尚服装——时尚产业概念模型
IF 0.9 4区 工程技术 Q3 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2022-12-01 DOI: 10.2478/ftee-2022-0047
Muhammad Ilias Hossen, Chaoxia Wang
Abstract The application of 3D printing technology has been relatively slow in the fashion industry. Both in the fashion industry and in 3D printing, the material used plays a very important role. In this direction, thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) is one material that has started to grab the attention of researchers, producers, and customers. While many have studied 3D printing technology using thermoplastic polyurethane material in the fashion industry from different perspectives, fewer researchers have addressed the actual adoption of thermoplastic polyurethane based 3D printing in the fashion industry. Thus, the present research has been focused to propose an adoption model for thermoplastic polyurethane based 3D-printed fashion clothes. Factor analysis was conducted to find and analyse the most relevant factors. Further exploratory factor analysis was conducted to test the proposed model. The study proposed a model for adoption based on four factors: motivation to buy, customer attitude, and the challenges and benefits associated with the adoption of thermoplastic polyurethane based 3-D printed fashion clothes.
摘要3D打印技术在时尚行业的应用相对缓慢。无论是在时尚行业还是在3D打印中,所使用的材料都扮演着非常重要的角色。在这个方向上,热塑性聚氨酯(TPU)是一种已经开始吸引研究人员、生产商和客户注意力的材料。虽然许多人从不同的角度研究了时尚行业中使用热塑性聚氨酯材料的3D打印技术,但很少有研究人员讨论时尚行业中实际采用基于热塑性聚氨基甲酸酯的3D打印。因此,本研究的重点是提出一种基于热塑性聚氨酯的3D打印时尚服装的采用模型。因子分析是为了找出并分析最相关的因素。对所提出的模型进行了进一步的探索性因素分析。该研究基于四个因素提出了一个采用模型:购买动机、客户态度以及采用热塑性聚氨酯基3D打印时尚服装的挑战和好处。
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引用次数: 0
Design Of the Tension Mechanism Of a Knotter And Optimization Of the Motion Parameters 绞结机张力机构设计及运动参数优化
IF 0.9 4区 工程技术 Q3 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2022-12-01 DOI: 10.2478/ftee-2022-0048
Jiahao Lan, Pei Feng, Junping Zhang, Ronggen Zhang, Chongchang Yang
Abstract Currently, the knotting of chemical fiber filament packages in factories primarily comprises manual operations. It also has a high labor intensity and is subject to artificial subjective factors, due to which it is difficult to guarantee the quality of the finished fiber products. Furthermore, it also significantly restricts the intelligent construction of chemical fiber production. This work employs partially oriented yarn (POY) and full draw yarn (FDY) to develop an automatic knotting device. The catenary theory was used to confirm the state of the yarn and to determine the relevant parameters of the tension mechanism. The results showed that the developed automatic knotting device satisfactorily meets the conditions required for manual knotting. The curve equation that was calculated using the catenary conformations of the yarn state verified that the actual yarn state was consistent with the theory. Moreover, the work provides a theoretical foundation for subsequent mechanism optimizations.
摘要目前,工厂中化纤长丝包装的打结主要包括手动操作。它的劳动强度高,受人为主观因素的影响,难以保证纤维成品的质量。此外,这也严重制约了化纤生产的智能化建设。本工作采用部分定向纱(POY)和全拉伸纱(FDY)开发了一种自动打结装置。运用悬链线理论确定了纱线的状态,并确定了张力机构的相关参数。结果表明,研制的自动打结装置完全满足手工打结的要求。利用纱线状态的悬链线构象计算的曲线方程验证了实际纱线状态与理论的一致性。此外,该工作为后续的机构优化提供了理论基础。
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引用次数: 0
Effects of Bikram Yoga Clothes on EEG Beta Spectrum 高温瑜伽服对脑电图β谱的影响
IF 0.9 4区 工程技术 Q3 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2022-12-01 DOI: 10.2478/ftee-2022-0051
Hyojeong Lee, Yejin Lee
Abstract This study analyzes how the beta index, which is closely related to alertness, caution, concentration, anxiety, and tension in brain activity, varies before and after practicing yoga. Electroencephalogram (EEG) and subjective evaluations were conducted on healthy female yoga trainers with over three years of experience; participants wore yoga clothes with differing characteristics in a hot environment. Repeated ANOVA measurements were conducted on the data by deriving the difference between the corresponding sample t-test pre- and post-yoga. After yoga, concentration increased, while alertness, anxiety, and excitement decreased depending on the yoga clothes. The clothing combination that offered higher pressure and greater absorption, and enhanced concentration while lowering excitation and anxiety increased beta waves the most. The design characteristics of yoga clothes influence beta power for concentration and arousal after yoga practice. Through EEG measurements, it was possible to explore the mental states resulting from wearing clothes suitable for yoga.
摘要本研究分析了与大脑活动中的警觉性、谨慎性、注意力、焦虑和紧张密切相关的β指数在练习瑜伽前后的变化。对有三年以上经验的健康女性瑜伽教练进行脑电图(EEG)和主观评价;参与者在炎热的环境中穿着不同特点的瑜伽服。通过推导瑜伽前后相应样本t检验之间的差异,对数据进行重复方差分析测量。瑜伽后,注意力增加,而警觉性、焦虑和兴奋感则因瑜伽服的不同而下降。服装组合提供了更高的压力和更大的吸收力,在降低兴奋和焦虑的同时提高了注意力,增加了最大的β波。瑜伽服的设计特点会影响瑜伽练习后的集中力和唤醒力。通过脑电图测量,可以探索穿着适合瑜伽的衣服所产生的精神状态。
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引用次数: 0
Assessment of Kernmantle Ropes in terms of Sheath Slippage: Method and Results Kernmentle绳索护套打滑的评估:方法和结果
IF 0.9 4区 工程技术 Q3 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2022-12-01 DOI: 10.2478/ftee-2022-0053
K. Baszczyński
Abstract Worksites at height require the protection of workers during both movement and task performance. The rope access technique involves the simultaneous use of working and backup textile rope systems. Currently, kernmantle ropes are most often used in conjunction with mechanisms that move along them and lock at the right moment. However, this mode of operation has a destructive effect on the rope. Ropes must therefore meet a number of specific requirements, one of the most important of which is sheath slippage. The paper presents a method for testing this parameter based on the requirements of EN standards, including the design and implementation of a test stand and a method for the verification of its operation. Test results for 11 types of ropes are presented and discussed. The paper also provides some guidelines for conducting tests.
摘要高处作业场所要求工人在行动和执行任务时得到保护。绳索接入技术包括同时使用工作和备用纺织绳索系统。目前,kernmantle绳索最常与沿着它们移动并在适当时刻锁定的机构结合使用。然而,这种操作模式对绳索具有破坏性影响。因此,绳索必须满足许多特定要求,其中最重要的要求之一是护套滑动。本文根据EN标准的要求,提出了一种测试该参数的方法,包括测试台的设计和实现,以及验证其运行的方法。介绍并讨论了11种钢丝绳的试验结果。本文还提供了一些测试指南。
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引用次数: 0
Textile Waste from Woollen Yarn Production as Raw Materials for Thermal Insulation Products 毛纺生产中的纺织废料作为隔热产品的原料
IF 0.9 4区 工程技术 Q3 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2022-10-01 DOI: 10.2478/ftee-2022-0039
Sigitas Vėjelis, S. Vaitkus, Audronė Sankauskaitė, A. Kremensas, Jurga Šeputytė Jucikė
Abstract In the current research, waste from woollen yarn production was analysed. Woollen yarn waste as raw material was used for the production of soft thermal insulation mats. Two types of mats were produced in a textile plant: thermally untreated and thermally treated. Properties such as the fibre composition, structure, and thermal conductivity of the thermally untreated and thermally treated mats were studied. During the composition analysis of the woollen yarn waste, the quantity of long, medium length, and short fibres was determined. The content of fats, salts, and other organic and synthetic impurities was investigated. The micro and macrostructures and contact zones between the fibres and the binding material were analysed. The dependences of the thermal conductivity on the density of the thermally untreated and thermally treated composites were obtained.
摘要对毛纱生产过程中产生的废弃物进行了分析。以废毛纱为原料,生产软质保温垫。在一家纺织厂生产了两种类型的垫子:未经热处理和热处理。研究了未经热处理和经过热处理的垫子的纤维组成、结构和导热性等性能。在对毛纱废料进行成分分析时,确定了长、中、短纤维的数量。研究了脂肪、盐和其他有机和合成杂质的含量。分析了纤维与粘结材料的微观、宏观结构和接触区域。得到了导热系数随未热处理和热处理复合材料密度的变化规律。
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引用次数: 0
Motives in Online Shopping through Digital Platforms in Textile: Risk Perception and Purchase Intention 纺织业数字平台网购动机:风险感知与购买意愿
IF 0.9 4区 工程技术 Q3 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2022-10-01 DOI: 10.2478/ftee-2022-0038
Gülden Turhan
Abstract This study aims to provide a great deal of insight into how risk perception and purchase intention differ for the consumer with different online shopping motives. Data were collected through a questionnaire with 359 voluntary consumers aged 18–28 living in Istanbul. 14 motives leading them to online shopping through digital platforms for textile products were defined with the focus group technique. First, clustering analysis was conducted to define consumers according to the guiding motives in online shopping. Next, whether the consumer segments identified by these motives have different levels of risk perception and purchase intention was investigated via ANOVA analysis.
摘要本研究旨在深入了解具有不同网上购物动机的消费者的风险感知和购买意愿是如何不同的。数据是通过对居住在伊斯坦布尔的359名18-28岁的自愿消费者的问卷调查收集的。通过焦点小组技术确定了14种导致他们通过数字平台在线购物的动机。首先,进行聚类分析,根据网络购物中的引导动机来定义消费者。接下来,通过方差分析研究了由这些动机识别的消费者群体是否具有不同程度的风险感知和购买意愿。
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引用次数: 0
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Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe
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