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The toyshop, the cabinet, and eighteenth-century curiosity 玩具店,橱柜,还有18世纪的好奇心
Q2 Arts and Humanities Pub Date : 2019-09-02 DOI: 10.1080/2373518X.2019.1703321
J. Dixon
ABSTRACT Although toyshops survived in name, eighteenth-century toyshops were retail environments distinct to that period, situated alongside other luxury retailers in many of Britain’s urban centres. They sold a range of adornments and collectibles, but the repeated referral to their contents as ‘curiosities’ raises questions as to how toyshops related to other spaces associated with curious articles, such as cabinets of curiosity. As retail sites, toyshops were part of consumer changes, whereas cabinets housed collectibles more associated with enlightened enquiry, so are often separated in the historiography. This survey considers toyshops in London and Birmingham, both in what they sold and their approaches to displaying and promoting these goods, in relation to the contents and experience in cabinets. This juxtaposes two forms of acquisition, collecting and consumption, and situates objects associated with knowledge acquisition and ‘trifling’ in the same discussion. Furthermore, the increasing emphasis on polite shopping is considered with reference to continuing requirements for attracting custom, which could be enhanced through exciting curiosity.
尽管玩具店在名义上幸存了下来,但18世纪的玩具店是与那个时期截然不同的零售环境,与英国许多城市中心的其他奢侈品零售商并列。他们出售一系列装饰品和收藏品,但反复提到他们的内容是“好奇”,这引发了一个问题,即玩具店如何与其他与好奇物品相关的空间联系起来,比如好奇柜。作为零售场所,玩具店是消费者变化的一部分,而橱柜里的收藏品更多地与开明的询问有关,因此在历史编纂中往往是分开的。这项调查考虑了伦敦和伯明翰的玩具店,包括他们销售的产品和他们展示和推广这些产品的方法,以及橱柜里的内容和体验。这并置了两种形式的获取,收集和消费,并将与知识获取和“琐事”相关的对象置于同一讨论中。此外,越来越强调礼貌的购物被认为是与吸引顾客的持续要求有关,这可以通过激发好奇心来加强。
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引用次数: 0
Reinterpreting shopping in the Enlightenment: retail practices, consumer experiences, governance 重新解读启蒙运动中的购物:零售实践、消费者体验、治理
Q2 Arts and Humanities Pub Date : 2019-09-02 DOI: 10.1080/2373518X.2019.1703320
Ilja Van Damme
ABSTRACT This new special issue on consumption and shopping practices in the eighteenth-century, takes further steps in reinterpreting the Enlightenment period in north-western Europe. The five papers assembled here will take the reader in new and often exciting directions with a shared concern to uncover under-studied source material and a willingness to explore and thematize shopping and consumption from a fine-grained and detailed historical perspective. The commodity culture of the Enlightenment will be analyzed to discover how it was embodied, enacted and perceived in its own time and context. In what follows, the reader will be introduced to toy- and bookshops in Enlightenment England; the role of provincial fairs; the way illicit goods were instrumental in tying consumer and retailers together in late eighteenth century Sweden; and, finally, learn more about subsequent phases of regulation and deregulation of the Viennese food markets around 1800. The following articles make the important implicit claim that shopping cultures in the Enlightenment worked ‘differently’, according to other cultural value schemes, conventions and norms than our own. These often-hidden cultural contexts remain in dire need to be resuscitated by uncovering new sources, doing careful methodological analysis, and by creatively connecting new findings to already existing knowledge.
这个关于18世纪消费和购物习惯的新特刊进一步解释了西北欧的启蒙时期。这里汇集的五篇论文将带读者进入新的、经常令人兴奋的方向,共同关注发现未被研究的原始材料,并愿意从细致而详细的历史角度探索和主题化购物和消费。我们将分析启蒙运动的商品文化,以发现它在自己的时代和背景下是如何体现、制定和感知的。接下来,读者将被介绍到英国启蒙时期的玩具书店和书店;省级博览会的作用;在18世纪晚期的瑞典,非法商品将消费者和零售商联系在一起;最后,了解更多关于1800年前后维也纳食品市场的监管和放松管制的后续阶段。下面的文章提出了一个重要的隐含主张,即启蒙运动时期的购物文化是“不同的”,它依据的是与我们不同的文化价值体系、习俗和规范。这些经常被隐藏的文化背景仍然迫切需要通过发现新的来源,进行仔细的方法分析,并创造性地将新的发现与已有的知识联系起来来复苏。
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引用次数: 1
Clandestine commerce: retailing contraband textiles in late eighteenth-century Sweden 秘密贸易:18世纪晚期瑞典零售违禁品纺织品
Q2 Arts and Humanities Pub Date : 2019-09-02 DOI: 10.1080/2373518X.2019.1703323
Anna Knutsson
ABSTRACT This article looks at how contraband was retailed in Sweden between the 1760s and the 1800s and explores how widespread this trade was. It draws on material from the Swedish customs office court records and explores three different retailing channels for contraband that emerge from the material – pedlars, fairs and shops. Officially, these retail outlets were quite distinct from each other, governed by strict regulations as to what and how wares should be traded. This article posits that through the support of their consumers retailers managed to break free from the trade regulations and were able to expand their stock with foreign illegal wares, leading to the dissemination of contraband across the Swedish realm.
本文着眼于18世纪60年代至19世纪期间瑞典的违禁品零售情况,并探讨了这种贸易的广泛程度。它借鉴了瑞典海关法庭记录的材料,并探索了从这些材料中产生的三种不同的走私零售渠道——小贩、集市和商店。官方的说法是,这些零售店彼此差别很大,在交易商品的种类和方式上都有严格的规定。本文认为,通过消费者的支持,零售商设法摆脱了贸易法规,并能够扩大外国非法商品的库存,导致违禁品在瑞典全境传播。
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引用次数: 0
The Victorian arcade as contemporary retail form? 维多利亚时代的商场是当代的零售形式吗?
Q2 Arts and Humanities Pub Date : 2019-05-04 DOI: 10.1080/2373518X.2019.1642565
G. Warnaby
ABSTRACT This paper analyses ground floor retail occupancy trends in Barton Arcade in Manchester, UK, from its construction in the 1870s to the present. The paper begins by discussing the development of arcades and acknowledges their importance as a retail built form, before discussing their relative demise in the twentieth century. Analysis of occupancy data from Slater’s/Kelly’s Directories (1876–1965) and Goad plans (1967 onwards) reveal significant continuities in occupancy, as well as trends towards an experiential orientation of the retail activity within the arcade, which suggests that an arcade which was perceived in the mid-1980s to have little future might have successfully found a new lease of life. The paper concludes by discussing the implications for a continuing contemporary role for Victorian Arcades such as the Barton Arcade, and for taking a microhistorical perspective in the study of retail history.
摘要本文分析了英国曼彻斯特巴顿拱廊从19世纪70年代建成至今的底层零售入住率趋势。本文首先讨论了街机的发展,并承认它们作为零售建筑形式的重要性,然后讨论了它们在20世纪的相对消亡。对Slater /Kelly’s directory(1876-1965)和Goad计划(1967年以后)入住率数据的分析揭示了入住率的显著连续性,以及商场内零售活动的体验导向趋势,这表明在20世纪80年代中期被认为没有什么未来的商场可能已经成功地找到了新的生命。本文最后讨论了巴顿拱廊等维多利亚式拱廊在当代的持续作用,以及在零售历史研究中采取微观历史视角的影响。
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引用次数: 2
The corset and the mirror. Fashion and domesticity in Swedish advertisements and fashion magazines, 1870–1914 紧身胸衣和镜子。1870-1914年瑞典广告和时尚杂志中的时尚与家庭生活
Q2 Arts and Humanities Pub Date : 2019-05-04 DOI: 10.1080/2373518X.2019.1642566
Leif Runefelt
ABSTRACT The article discusses two elusive components in the construction of bourgeois and middle class femininity in Sweden, 1870–1914: the corset and the mirror. Two popular genres of images are contrasted: images of corsets in Swedish fashion advertisements, and images of corsets and undergarments in Swedish fashion magazines. While fashion advertisements in general copied fashion magazine images, they chose a different path in regard of the corset and the mirror. The two objects, albeit important parts of the period’s fashion, are made invisible in fashion magazines while clearly visualized in the advertisements. The purpose of Swedish fashion magazines was not only to present the latest fashion, but also to construct a conception of timeless womanhood well integrated into the predominant ideology of domesticity. Vanity, gossip, and erotic desires were staple goods of traditional misogyny and were hardly possible to express in fashion magazines. Advertising on the other hand communicated with the female consumer as an individual and presented her as a vain, sexual and emotional creature – without condemning her at the same time. Fashion advertisements emancipated, clearly not woman, but fashion itself, from the morals of domesticity.
本文讨论了1870-1914年瑞典资产阶级和中产阶级女性气质建构中两个难以捉摸的组成部分:紧身胸衣和镜子。对比了两种流行的图像类型:瑞典时尚广告中的紧身胸衣图像和瑞典时尚杂志中的紧身胸衣和内衣图像。虽然时尚广告一般都是模仿时尚杂志的形象,但他们在紧身胸衣和镜子方面选择了不同的道路。这两件物品虽然是那个时期时尚的重要组成部分,但在时尚杂志上却看不见,而在广告中却清晰可见。瑞典时尚杂志的目的不仅是呈现最新的时尚,而且要构建一种永恒的女性观念,与主流的家庭生活意识形态完美结合。虚荣、八卦和情欲是传统厌女症的主要内容,几乎不可能在时尚杂志上表达出来。另一方面,广告将女性消费者作为一个个体进行沟通,并将她们呈现为一个虚荣、性感和感性的生物——同时却没有谴责她们。时尚广告显然不是把女人,而是把时尚本身,从家庭生活的道德中解放出来。
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引用次数: 7
Need to necessity: carriage advertising in the Gilded Age 从需要到需要:镀金时代的马车广告
Q2 Arts and Humanities Pub Date : 2019-05-04 DOI: 10.1080/2373518X.2019.1611163
J. Regan
ABSTRACT This article looks at the advertising of the carriage trade in the United States during the Gilded Age. The trade’s changing products and its expanding markets helped define the advertising employed to reach diverse consumers. The article also gives a brief history of the Studebaker Brothers Company and its advertisements, as well as looking at some early automobile advertising from several companies. The carriage trade in the United States, through industrial manufacturing techniques, created a consumer product that needed to find its market. To secure a place for carriages in this new consumer society, manufacturers and distributors used advertising, as they would later for the automobiles that were to replace them. The article includes descriptions of carriage and automobile ads, representing a range of business, retail, and lifestyle publications and their customers.
本文介绍镀金时代美国的马车贸易广告。该行业不断变化的产品及其不断扩大的市场有助于定义用于接触不同消费者的广告。本文还简要介绍了Studebaker Brothers公司及其广告的历史,以及几家公司早期的汽车广告。美国的运输贸易通过工业制造技术创造了一种需要找到市场的消费品。为了在这个新的消费社会中为马车争取一席之地,制造商和经销商使用了广告,就像他们后来为取代马车的汽车做广告一样。这篇文章包括对马车和汽车广告的描述,代表了一系列商业、零售和生活方式出版物及其客户。
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引用次数: 0
Furs in early twentieth-century New Zealand: ecology, war and fashion to the 1930s 20世纪初新西兰的皮草:到20世纪30年代的生态、战争和时尚
Q2 Arts and Humanities Pub Date : 2019-05-02 DOI: 10.1080/2373518X.2019.1611164
K. Hunter
ABSTRACT The First World War was a complex moment in the history of dress and garment manufacture. Materials and textile production were diverted largely to war manufacturing, and the meanings of clothing became caught up in particular notions of loyalty and patriotism. One change in dress that has received little attention was the growth of the fur garment and trim industry in these years of fashion austerity. New Zealand provides a fascinating case study of the blossoming of the ‘new world’ fur trade and garment industry from 1914 because, despite its small size and remoteness from Britain and Europe, it became an important player in the international fur trade and the democratization of fur that occurred in these years. This article examines three facets of New Zealand’s fur trade that illuminate the complex forces of war, ecology, and the meanings of buying and wearing clothing in this particular trade at this particular time.
摘要第一次世界大战是服装制造史上一个复杂的时刻。材料和纺织品生产在很大程度上被转移到了战争制造业,服装的含义被忠诚和爱国主义的特殊概念所掩盖。服装的一个变化很少受到关注,那就是在这些年的时尚紧缩中,皮草服装和装饰行业的发展。新西兰为1914年以来“新世界”毛皮贸易和服装业的蓬勃发展提供了一个引人入胜的案例研究,因为尽管新西兰面积小,远离英国和欧洲,但它成为了国际毛皮贸易和近年来毛皮民主化的重要参与者。本文考察了新西兰毛皮贸易的三个方面,阐明了战争、生态的复杂力量,以及在这个特定的时间在这个特定贸易中购买和穿着衣服的意义。
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引用次数: 0
Undervaluation in probate inventories probate inventory values and auction protocol market prices in eighteenth and nineteenth century Sweden 18、19世纪瑞典遗嘱存单价值与拍卖协议市场价格的低估
Q2 Arts and Humanities Pub Date : 2019-04-19 DOI: 10.1080/2373518X.2019.1600295
Sofia Murhem, Lars-Olov Karlsson, R. Nilsson, Göran Ulväng
ABSTRACT In this article we examine the accuracy of valuations of movable property for a sample of 22 probate inventories from Swedish. The sample comprises a total of 785 probated items which we have been able to match with contemporary auction protocols, giving us an official sales price for each item. This enables us to determine the consistency between the appraisal values in the probates and prevailing market prices, despite the fact that the probated items were invariably second-hand and of uncertain quality, as the comparison can be made for one and the same items. Our results show that probate appraisal values were marked underestimates of contemporary market prices, but also, that they lacked internal consistency. We find a mean undervaluation for probated items of −36 ± 3 percent, but the degree of undervaluation varied both depending on (i) the category of item, (ii) the year of the probate, as well as depending on (iii) the social class of the deceased. Our results apply, first and foremost, for the Swedish counties of Uppland and Södermanland, but as there is no reason to assume that Swedish probate proceedings exhibited significant regional variation, our results are most likely valid for the whole country.
摘要本文以瑞典22份遗嘱认证清单为样本,检验动产估价的准确性。样本共包括785件经过认证的物品,我们能够将其与当代拍卖协议相匹配,从而为每件物品提供官方销售价格。这使我们能够确定遗嘱认证中的评估价值与现行市场价格之间的一致性,尽管遗嘱认证的物品总是二手的,质量不确定,因为可以对同一物品进行比较。我们的研究结果表明,遗嘱认证评估值明显低估了当代市场价格,但也缺乏内部一致性。我们发现遗嘱认证项目的平均低估值为-36 ± 3%,但低估的程度因(i)物品类别、(ii)遗嘱认证年份以及(iii)死者的社会阶层而异。我们的结果首先适用于瑞典的Uppland县和Södermanland县,但由于没有理由假设瑞典的遗嘱认证程序表现出显著的地区差异,我们的结果很可能适用于整个国家。
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引用次数: 2
Grocery garbage: food waste and the rise of supermarkets in the mid-twentieth century United States 食品杂货垃圾:食物浪费和20世纪中期美国超市的兴起
Q2 Arts and Humanities Pub Date : 2019-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/2373518X.2019.1589860
Anna Zeide
ABSTRACT Food waste and its disposal have long been central problems of food distribution and retailing. The supermarket revolution in the United States, beginning in the 1930s, introduced both new opportunities and new challenges. As American supermarkets grew bigger, they cut losses in some areas, but also saw increasing waste. Operators had to deal with concerns about consumers handling produce, higher aesthetic standards that led stores to discard more edible produce, overstocking, and more trimming with the rise of prepackaging. The growing piles of garbage that the new large supermarkets produced were directed toward one of the methods of disposal that was gaining ground in mid-twentieth century America. Public works and public health officials championed sanitary landfills, hog feeding operations, garbage grinders, and incineration, despite all of the potential costs associated with each method. Heightened awareness of the environmental and public health costs of water and air pollution led citizens and leaders to push back against these disposal systems, often displacing them onto marginalised communities.
长期以来,食物浪费及其处理一直是食品分销和零售的核心问题。20世纪30年代开始的美国超市革命带来了新的机遇和挑战。随着美国超市规模的扩大,他们在某些领域减少了损失,但也看到了越来越多的浪费。经营者必须处理消费者处理农产品的担忧,更高的审美标准导致商店丢弃更多的可食用农产品,库存过剩,以及随着预包装的兴起而进行的更多修剪。新的大型超市所产生的越来越多的垃圾都指向了一种处理方法,这种方法在20世纪中期的美国逐渐流行起来。公共工程和公共卫生官员支持卫生填埋场、生猪饲养操作、垃圾研磨机和焚烧,尽管每种方法都有潜在的成本。对水和空气污染造成的环境和公共卫生成本的认识提高,导致公民和领导人反对这些处置系统,往往将其转移到边缘化社区。
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引用次数: 3
‘We dislike to see suffering’: the fight for humane slaughter in the United States in the 1950s “我们不喜欢看到痛苦”:20世纪50年代美国为人道屠杀而战
Q2 Arts and Humanities Pub Date : 2019-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/2373518X.2019.1589857
C. Deutsch
ABSTRACT The history of consumption in the United States has long been marked by its political nature though historians have struggled to explain the politics of consumption and food retailing during the 1950s, when the notion of abundance became synonymous with the United States. This article explores that history by examining the passage of the Humane Methods of Slaughter Act of 1958. Though not a major bill, it enshrined animals’ right to die without pain and marked a triumph of animal welfare groups’ political activism. By exploring the fight between proponents and opponents of humane slaughter, the nature of consumer politics in the 1950s comes into focus. Consumers fought to force the meat commodity chain to reflect their values as Americans who saw themselves as the most modern and moral nation in the world. Opponents tried to block a mandatory humane slaughter law. Ultimately, proponents succeeded because they framed humane slaughter as an issue of consumer morality. Consumers used the political system to remake a portion of the food economy in order to make food production and retail systems reflect their values.
长久以来,美国的消费历史一直以其政治性质为标志,尽管历史学家一直在努力解释20世纪50年代消费和食品零售的政治,当时富裕的概念成为美国的代名词。本文通过考察1958年通过的《人道屠宰方法法》来探索这段历史。虽然不是一项重大法案,但它体现了动物无痛苦死亡的权利,标志着动物福利组织政治活动的胜利。通过探索人道屠杀的支持者和反对者之间的斗争,20世纪50年代消费者政治的本质得到了关注。消费者努力迫使肉类商品连锁店反映他们作为美国人的价值观,美国人认为自己是世界上最现代、最道德的国家。反对者试图阻止一项强制性的人道屠宰法。最终,支持者取得了成功,因为他们将人道屠杀定义为消费者道德问题。消费者利用政治体系重塑了食品经济的一部分,以使食品生产和零售体系反映他们的价值观。
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引用次数: 1
期刊
History of Retailing and Consumption
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