The study selects 50 senior people at the age of more than 60 and 30 young people at the age of 18-26 as test group and control group respectively, including people with mild foot disease, such as flat feet, pes cavus and hallux valgus. Questionnaire survey of effective data volume and observation are used to understand common problems of the foot in the elderly, collect shape photos of the foot in senior people, and subjectively analyze their foot shape and gait characteristics. Footscan plate plantar pressure test system and Kistler 3D force platform are used to objectively analyze plantar pressure distribution and gait characteristics of subjects. According to study results: Toe-out gait causes the plantar pressure to move to the forefoot, therefore, the forefoot is the part with the highest risk of injury of foot in toe-out gait, especially the first toe, causing hallux valgus and various foot problems. The toe-out gait causes increase of gait cycle, slow walking speed, poor buffer effect, and may bring pain in feet and lower extremities, thus affecting the dynamic characteristics of the entire lower limb.
{"title":"Study on the relationship between the toe-out gait and foot hallux valgus in the elderly Chinese","authors":"Xiangdong Luo, Yi-Nuo Zhang, Chao-Hua Xue, Zongmin Yue","doi":"10.24264/lfj.21.3.5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.24264/lfj.21.3.5","url":null,"abstract":"The study selects 50 senior people at the age of more than 60 and 30 young people at the age of 18-26 as test group and control group respectively, including people with mild foot disease, such as flat feet, pes cavus and hallux valgus. Questionnaire survey of effective data volume and observation are used to understand common problems of the foot in the elderly, collect shape photos of the foot in senior people, and subjectively analyze their foot shape and gait characteristics. Footscan plate plantar pressure test system and Kistler 3D force platform are used to objectively analyze plantar pressure distribution and gait characteristics of subjects. According to study results: Toe-out gait causes the plantar pressure to move to the forefoot, therefore, the forefoot is the part with the highest risk of injury of foot in toe-out gait, especially the first toe, causing hallux valgus and various foot problems. The toe-out gait causes increase of gait cycle, slow walking speed, poor buffer effect, and may bring pain in feet and lower extremities, thus affecting the dynamic characteristics of the entire lower limb.","PeriodicalId":38857,"journal":{"name":"Leather and Footwear Journal","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-09-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47063322","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
A chemical analysis was carried out to determine the content of skin substance in different leather samples prepared using several acids in the pickling stage. Ecuadorian bovine skin was utilized. It went through the tanning processes until reaching the pickling stage in which three treatments employing sulfuric acid, formic acid and oxalic acid, respectively, were applied. Later, tanning was applied, wet blue samples were obtained and their contents of skin substance were measured by means of AST D2868-17 rules. Results were verified through a statistical analysis using Infostat software. After post tanning stages a dyed leather was obtained upon which physical tests of tension resistance, elongation percent and lastometry as well as sensorial essays of feeling, softness and swelling were executed. The treatments produce results of skin substance from every leather area, that is, head, loin and backside. It is found that the sulfuric acid pickling features the highest content of skin substance (72.63%) followed by the formic acid pickling (70.94%) and the oxalic acid pickling which has the lowest amount of skin substance (65.04%). In order to validate the results, a statistical analysis was performed which confirms the chemical analysis. To ratify which one was the best treatment, a comparison based on the properties of each acid was made. The formic acid was confirmed as the most appropriate since it differentiates from the sulfuric acid due to the skin substance content by complying with the required parameters of elongation (15.89%), and softness/swelling (4%). On the other hand, oxalic acid produced lesser quality results.
{"title":"Analysis of variation of the skin substance with the application of different acids in the pickle stage in Ecuadorian serrano bovine leathers","authors":"M. Parada, R. Cazar, David Espin, Alexandra Tapia","doi":"10.24264/lfj.21.3.2","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.24264/lfj.21.3.2","url":null,"abstract":"A chemical analysis was carried out to determine the content of skin substance in different leather samples prepared using several acids in the pickling stage. Ecuadorian bovine skin was utilized. It went through the tanning processes until reaching the pickling stage in which three treatments employing sulfuric acid, formic acid and oxalic acid, respectively, were applied. Later, tanning was applied, wet blue samples were obtained and their contents of skin substance were measured by means of AST D2868-17 rules. Results were verified through a statistical analysis using Infostat software. After post tanning stages a dyed leather was obtained upon which physical tests of tension resistance, elongation percent and lastometry as well as sensorial essays of feeling, softness and swelling were executed. The treatments produce results of skin substance from every leather area, that is, head, loin and backside. It is found that the sulfuric acid pickling features the highest content of skin substance (72.63%) followed by the formic acid pickling (70.94%) and the oxalic acid pickling which has the lowest amount of skin substance (65.04%). In order to validate the results, a statistical analysis was performed which confirms the chemical analysis. To ratify which one was the best treatment, a comparison based on the properties of each acid was made. The formic acid was confirmed as the most appropriate since it differentiates from the sulfuric acid due to the skin substance content by complying with the required parameters of elongation (15.89%), and softness/swelling (4%). On the other hand, oxalic acid produced lesser quality results.","PeriodicalId":38857,"journal":{"name":"Leather and Footwear Journal","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-09-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44061935","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
China is the largest footwear producing country, as well as the largest country producing the footwear manufacturing waste. In order to achieve sustainable development in the footwear industry, we should pay attention to their environmental effect seriously. Therefore, by applying life-cycle assessment (LCA) protocol, we aimed to explore the effect of the manufacturing process on the environment of a classical style of pump shoes. Following guidelines of ISO 14010, we first determined the objective and the scope of this study; then, we collected input and output data from the shoe producing line of a shoe-making enterprise in Wenzhou, China; afterwards, we applied eFootprint software for LCA modeling; finally, we chose three LCA indicators for further analysis: Global Warming Potential (GWP, kg CO2 eq), Primary Energy Demand (PED, MJ) and Abiotic Depletion Potential (ADP, kg Sb eq). Our results show that by producing one pair of pump shoes, the manufacturing process will emit 11.427 Kg CO2 eq in terms of GWP, 232.621MJ in PED and 6.291×10-5Kg sb eq in ADP. Hence, by multiplying the number of shoes produced in China, negative environmental influences from shoe making industry were also dramatic. According to further contribution rate of all process, we found that materials such as the water-based binder and the plastic last used in manufacturing process accounted for the major reason. Overall, while considering the environmental effects from the shoe manufacturing process, we shall not ignore the environmental impact whilst producing the binder and the last. Moreover, by reducing binder usage or updating the shoe making technology, and recycling the last can be an efficient way to reduce the environmental effects from the shoe making industry.
{"title":"Evaluation of environmental effect of pump shoes in terms of manufacturing process","authors":"Chi Zhang, Leiyang Li, C. Gaidău, Jin Zhou","doi":"10.24264/lfj.21.3.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.24264/lfj.21.3.1","url":null,"abstract":"China is the largest footwear producing country, as well as the largest country producing the footwear manufacturing waste. In order to achieve sustainable development in the footwear industry, we should pay attention to their environmental effect seriously. Therefore, by applying life-cycle assessment (LCA) protocol, we aimed to explore the effect of the manufacturing process on the environment of a classical style of pump shoes. Following guidelines of ISO 14010, we first determined the objective and the scope of this study; then, we collected input and output data from the shoe producing line of a shoe-making enterprise in Wenzhou, China; afterwards, we applied eFootprint software for LCA modeling; finally, we chose three LCA indicators for further analysis: Global Warming Potential (GWP, kg CO2 eq), Primary Energy Demand (PED, MJ) and Abiotic Depletion Potential (ADP, kg Sb eq). Our results show that by producing one pair of pump shoes, the manufacturing process will emit 11.427 Kg CO2 eq in terms of GWP, 232.621MJ in PED and 6.291×10-5Kg sb eq in ADP. Hence, by multiplying the number of shoes produced in China, negative environmental influences from shoe making industry were also dramatic. According to further contribution rate of all process, we found that materials such as the water-based binder and the plastic last used in manufacturing process accounted for the major reason. Overall, while considering the environmental effects from the shoe manufacturing process, we shall not ignore the environmental impact whilst producing the binder and the last. Moreover, by reducing binder usage or updating the shoe making technology, and recycling the last can be an efficient way to reduce the environmental effects from the shoe making industry.","PeriodicalId":38857,"journal":{"name":"Leather and Footwear Journal","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-09-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"49220796","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
A. Djuraev, T. Kodirov, Khalil Khabibullaevich Usmanov, A. Toshev, Shohrux Shuxratovich Shoyimov
The influence of solar radiation and precipitation on leather samples for the upper part of footwear, treated with water-repellent compounds, was determined and the process of their destruction in natural atmospheric conditions was determined. The study of the effect of solar radiation on natural skin has not been sufficiently studied. In connection with the above, the test was carried out on experimental hydrophobized and initial (control) leather samples in an open area to determine the insolation of solar radiation and precipitation on the skin for the upper shoes. During the tests, a systematic examination of the exposed samples was carried out for 1-6 months, sampling for physico-mechanical and other tests was recorded by meteorological conditions. After that, the samples were subjected to organoleptic evaluation, physical-mechanical and chemical-analytical analyses, as well as structural studies. It was visually determined that, depending on the variant of hydrophobization used, fibrillar collagen formations change in different ways. After atmospheric insolation acts on the control sample, its fibrillar structure changes sharply, numerous micro cracks appear, located mainly perpendicular to the fiber axis, and clearly defined dark zones are found between the fibrils. Fibril outlines become indistinct, numerous torn ends are observed. However, such changes are not observed for hydrophobized samples. Significant changes in physical and mechanical properties are observed in the first and fourth months of natural aging. In the hydrophobized sample, the rate of change in hydrothermal destruction and the appearance of cracks in the face layer subjected to aging in an open area, is always lower compared to the control sample.
{"title":"Influence of solar radiation insolation precipitation on hydrophobized leather for shoe uppers","authors":"A. Djuraev, T. Kodirov, Khalil Khabibullaevich Usmanov, A. Toshev, Shohrux Shuxratovich Shoyimov","doi":"10.24264/lfj.21.3.3","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.24264/lfj.21.3.3","url":null,"abstract":"The influence of solar radiation and precipitation on leather samples for the upper part of footwear, treated with water-repellent compounds, was determined and the process of their destruction in natural atmospheric conditions was determined. The study of the effect of solar radiation on natural skin has not been sufficiently studied. In connection with the above, the test was carried out on experimental hydrophobized and initial (control) leather samples in an open area to determine the insolation of solar radiation and precipitation on the skin for the upper shoes. During the tests, a systematic examination of the exposed samples was carried out for 1-6 months, sampling for physico-mechanical and other tests was recorded by meteorological conditions. After that, the samples were subjected to organoleptic evaluation, physical-mechanical and chemical-analytical analyses, as well as structural studies. It was visually determined that, depending on the variant of hydrophobization used, fibrillar collagen formations change in different ways. After atmospheric insolation acts on the control sample, its fibrillar structure changes sharply, numerous micro cracks appear, located mainly perpendicular to the fiber axis, and clearly defined dark zones are found between the fibrils. Fibril outlines become indistinct, numerous torn ends are observed. However, such changes are not observed for hydrophobized samples. Significant changes in physical and mechanical properties are observed in the first and fourth months of natural aging. In the hydrophobized sample, the rate of change in hydrothermal destruction and the appearance of cracks in the face layer subjected to aging in an open area, is always lower compared to the control sample.","PeriodicalId":38857,"journal":{"name":"Leather and Footwear Journal","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-09-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43555662","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Guan-Li Liu, Yuqi Li, Quting Huang, Jin Zhou, W. Lam
Badminton lunge requires rapid coordination between the knee and ankle joints and it is accompanied by fast contact between the shoe’s sole and the floor. Phase angle analysis is a protocol with high resolution and relating to the coordination, but how the shoe’s sole would affect the lunge performance was not clear in terms of coordination. Thereby, the aim of this study was to applied phase angle analysis to insight the lunge process, then to disclose the effect of badminton shoe’s sole on the lunge skill performance. Eleven elite badminton players performed five left-forward maximum lunge trials with wearing Rounded Heel Shoe (RHS), Flattened Heel Shoe (FHS), and Standard Heel Shoes (SHS). The motion capturing system was used to measure the knee and ankle kinematics information. The Phase Angle (PA), continuous relative phase (CRP) and variability of continuous relative phase (VCRP) between the knee and ankle joints were then calculated for both forward lunge phase and recovery phase in each of the three shoes. Current findings indicated that players wearing RHS had certain advantages on better movement coordination than other shoes, as indicated by better PA and CRP. The findings of this study would be helpful to understand the coordination of badminton lunges and explain the synergy between the lower extremity ankle and knee joint to minimize the possibility of injury in badminton. Furthermore, the coordination between the knee and ankle joints was greatly affected by the structure of the shoe heel design.
{"title":"Effect of badminton shoe sole on the lunge skill performance: in the viewpoint of coordination","authors":"Guan-Li Liu, Yuqi Li, Quting Huang, Jin Zhou, W. Lam","doi":"10.24264/lfj.21.2.4","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.24264/lfj.21.2.4","url":null,"abstract":"Badminton lunge requires rapid coordination between the knee and ankle joints and it is accompanied by fast contact between the shoe’s sole and the floor. Phase angle analysis is a protocol with high resolution and relating to the coordination, but how the shoe’s sole would affect the lunge performance was not clear in terms of coordination. Thereby, the aim of this study was to applied phase angle analysis to insight the lunge process, then to disclose the effect of badminton shoe’s sole on the lunge skill performance. Eleven elite badminton players performed five left-forward maximum lunge trials with wearing Rounded Heel Shoe (RHS), Flattened Heel Shoe (FHS), and Standard Heel Shoes (SHS). The motion capturing system was used to measure the knee and ankle kinematics information. The Phase Angle (PA), continuous relative phase (CRP) and variability of continuous relative phase (VCRP) between the knee and ankle joints were then calculated for both forward lunge phase and recovery phase in each of the three shoes. Current findings indicated that players wearing RHS had certain advantages on better movement coordination than other shoes, as indicated by better PA and CRP. The findings of this study would be helpful to understand the coordination of badminton lunges and explain the synergy between the lower extremity ankle and knee joint to minimize the possibility of injury in badminton. Furthermore, the coordination between the knee and ankle joints was greatly affected by the structure of the shoe heel design.","PeriodicalId":38857,"journal":{"name":"Leather and Footwear Journal","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-06-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42468066","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
A. Seul, A. Mihai, A. Curteza, Maria Costea, Bogdan Sârghie
The biomechanical analysis allows to understand the normal and pathological gait, the mechanics of neuromuscular control, and last but not least, allows the visualisation of the effects of footwear on human gait or feet. Biomechanical analyses are very important for the footwear development process, as they can identify the incorrect loading of the foot or the incorrect gait pattern, thus avoiding the occurrence of deformations. This paper aims to create an average representative model of barefoot loading based on an extended group of participants by applying an optimal procedure for measuring biomechanical parameters. The variation of four basic biomechanical parameters, namely force, pressure, contact time and contact area, was measured using a pressure platform and a specialised software system. The data was collected from 32 healthy females, without particularities regarding foot health and the practice of performance sports, aged between 18 and 30 years, divided into three size groups – 36, 37 and 38. The T-Student test was applied to verify if there are significant differences between the left and right foot. Statistical indicators for each parameter were calculated, in order to characterize and establish the degree of variation of the obtained values, as follows: mean, standard deviation, minimum and maximum values, the amplitude of variation and coefficient of variation (CV). The study results confirm that the obtained mean values can be used as input data to load the foot and perform virtual simulations of footwear products.
{"title":"Biomechanical parameters characterising the foot during normal gait","authors":"A. Seul, A. Mihai, A. Curteza, Maria Costea, Bogdan Sârghie","doi":"10.24264/lfj.21.2.2","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.24264/lfj.21.2.2","url":null,"abstract":"The biomechanical analysis allows to understand the normal and pathological gait, the mechanics of neuromuscular control, and last but not least, allows the visualisation of the effects of footwear on human gait or feet. Biomechanical analyses are very important for the footwear development process, as they can identify the incorrect loading of the foot or the incorrect gait pattern, thus avoiding the occurrence of deformations. This paper aims to create an average representative model of barefoot loading based on an extended group of participants by applying an optimal procedure for measuring biomechanical parameters. The variation of four basic biomechanical parameters, namely force, pressure, contact time and contact area, was measured using a pressure platform and a specialised software system. The data was collected from 32 healthy females, without particularities regarding foot health and the practice of performance sports, aged between 18 and 30 years, divided into three size groups – 36, 37 and 38. The T-Student test was applied to verify if there are significant differences between the left and right foot. Statistical indicators for each parameter were calculated, in order to characterize and establish the degree of variation of the obtained values, as follows: mean, standard deviation, minimum and maximum values, the amplitude of variation and coefficient of variation (CV). The study results confirm that the obtained mean values can be used as input data to load the foot and perform virtual simulations of footwear products.","PeriodicalId":38857,"journal":{"name":"Leather and Footwear Journal","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-06-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46144003","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
N. Fitriyanto, Musthofiyah Musthofiyah, M. Muhlisin, A. Pertiwiningrum, N. Kurniawati, R. A. Prasetyo, A. R. Azkarahman, Y. Erwanto
This study aims to determine the enzymatic activity of extracellular alkaline protease from Bacillus cereus TD5B and its potential application as a sheep skin dehairing agent. The B. cereus TD5B was screened for extracellular alkaline protease production on skim milk agar media, while its alkaline protease activity and the application were measured at 1%, 1.5%, and 2%. The application of alkaline protease from B. cereus TD5B as a sheep skin dehairing agent was observed through histological examination and physical properties measurement after chrome-tanning with lime and Na2S as control. The study was conducted in a completely randomized design, and the quantitative data were analyzed using Duncan’s Multiple Range Test. The results showed that a clear zone was seen surrounding B. cereus, indicating the bacteria’s proteolytic activity. The protease activity measurement showed that 2% of alkaline protease had the highest enzymatic activity at 144.75 U/mL/min. The highest tensile strength of sheep leather was obtained after dehairing at 1% alkaline protease concentration (350.26 kg/cm2), even though the highest elongation was obtained at 2% (34.92%). In contrast, different concentrations showed similar shrinkage temperatures at 90°C. This study concludes that the optimum alkaline protease concentration from Bacillus cereus TD5B as a sheep dehairing agent was 2%.
{"title":"Enzymatic activity of alkaline protease from Bacillus cereus TD5B and its application as sheep skin dehairing agent","authors":"N. Fitriyanto, Musthofiyah Musthofiyah, M. Muhlisin, A. Pertiwiningrum, N. Kurniawati, R. A. Prasetyo, A. R. Azkarahman, Y. Erwanto","doi":"10.24264/lfj.21.2.3","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.24264/lfj.21.2.3","url":null,"abstract":"This study aims to determine the enzymatic activity of extracellular alkaline protease from Bacillus cereus TD5B and its potential application as a sheep skin dehairing agent. The B. cereus TD5B was screened for extracellular alkaline protease production on skim milk agar media, while its alkaline protease activity and the application were measured at 1%, 1.5%, and 2%. The application of alkaline protease from B. cereus TD5B as a sheep skin dehairing agent was observed through histological examination and physical properties measurement after chrome-tanning with lime and Na2S as control. The study was conducted in a completely randomized design, and the quantitative data were analyzed using Duncan’s Multiple Range Test. The results showed that a clear zone was seen surrounding B. cereus, indicating the bacteria’s proteolytic activity. The protease activity measurement showed that 2% of alkaline protease had the highest enzymatic activity at 144.75 U/mL/min. The highest tensile strength of sheep leather was obtained after dehairing at 1% alkaline protease concentration (350.26 kg/cm2), even though the highest elongation was obtained at 2% (34.92%). In contrast, different concentrations showed similar shrinkage temperatures at 90°C. This study concludes that the optimum alkaline protease concentration from Bacillus cereus TD5B as a sheep dehairing agent was 2%.","PeriodicalId":38857,"journal":{"name":"Leather and Footwear Journal","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-06-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43553371","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Heng Yang, Dexin An, C. Gaidău, Jinwei Zhang, Jin Zhou
Pollution has become a serious problem in leather industry, however, current method to evaluate its environmental effect usually used data from literature review, those data generated while leather manufacturing were rarely collected and analyzed. Thereby, the aim of this study was to evaluate the environmental effect of manufacturing process of chrome tanned cowhide upper leather by applying the Life Cycle Assessment protocols. Following the guidance of ISO 14010, we first combined data obtained from field study and empirical review; and then these data were input into eFootprint for calculation. Results, including four environmental indicators (global warming potential [GWP], primary energy demand [PED], water utility [WU] and acidification [AP]), show that producing 1 kg of cowhide upper leather releases 7.040 kg of CO2 eq, consumes 106.793 MJ of energy and 89.144 kg of water and emits 0.058 kg of SO2 eq. Sensitivity analysis of inventory data demonstrated that chrome tanning and retanning processes accounted for more than 40% of PED, AP and GWP, whereas the beamhouse was more than 78% of WU. Therefore, we could optimise the tanning process by using alternative materials or technologies in the critical sections to achieve cleaner production and sustainable leather manufacturing.
{"title":"Life cycle assessment of processing for chrome tanned cowhide upper leather","authors":"Heng Yang, Dexin An, C. Gaidău, Jinwei Zhang, Jin Zhou","doi":"10.24264/lfj.21.2.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.24264/lfj.21.2.1","url":null,"abstract":"Pollution has become a serious problem in leather industry, however, current method to evaluate its environmental effect usually used data from literature review, those data generated while leather manufacturing were rarely collected and analyzed. Thereby, the aim of this study was to evaluate the environmental effect of manufacturing process of chrome tanned cowhide upper leather by applying the Life Cycle Assessment protocols. Following the guidance of ISO 14010, we first combined data obtained from field study and empirical review; and then these data were input into eFootprint for calculation. Results, including four environmental indicators (global warming potential [GWP], primary energy demand [PED], water utility [WU] and acidification [AP]), show that producing 1 kg of cowhide upper leather releases 7.040 kg of CO2 eq, consumes 106.793 MJ of energy and 89.144 kg of water and emits 0.058 kg of SO2 eq. Sensitivity analysis of inventory data demonstrated that chrome tanning and retanning processes accounted for more than 40% of PED, AP and GWP, whereas the beamhouse was more than 78% of WU. Therefore, we could optimise the tanning process by using alternative materials or technologies in the critical sections to achieve cleaner production and sustainable leather manufacturing.","PeriodicalId":38857,"journal":{"name":"Leather and Footwear Journal","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-06-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44632775","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
This research aims to develop innovative footwear designs using Modified Design Thinking. This research is a qualitative research with Focus Group Discussion (FGD) as data source. Additionally, Modified Design Thinking was used to analyse the research data. The research findings reinforce the use of Modified Design Thinking in developing innovative footwear designs by identifying the needs of potential customers. Furthermore, local culture is believed to be the most influential factor in footwear design. As such, the innovation process in Indonesia is unique as it incorporates local culture into the creation of footwear design. This research enriches the existing footwear design innovation from the customers' perspective by using local culture as the main innovation element.
{"title":"Developing Innovative Footwear Designs: Empirical Evidence from Indonesia","authors":"D. S. Kodrat, Tina Melinda, D. A. Krisprimandoyo","doi":"10.24264/LFJ.20.4.7","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.24264/LFJ.20.4.7","url":null,"abstract":"This research aims to develop innovative footwear designs using Modified Design Thinking. This research is a qualitative research with Focus Group Discussion (FGD) as data source. Additionally, Modified Design Thinking was used to analyse the research data. The research findings reinforce the use of Modified Design Thinking in developing innovative footwear designs by identifying the needs of potential customers. Furthermore, local culture is believed to be the most influential factor in footwear design. As such, the innovation process in Indonesia is unique as it incorporates local culture into the creation of footwear design. This research enriches the existing footwear design innovation from the customers' perspective by using local culture as the main innovation element.","PeriodicalId":38857,"journal":{"name":"Leather and Footwear Journal","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-12-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46491818","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Indonesia has large coastal areas. The fisheries are good for exploitation. In the previous studies, bacteria producing keratinase were isolated from fish market waste. Keratinase enzyme is able to degrade keratin on the skin. Enzyme activity is influenced by external conditions, such as pH, temperature, and incubation time. The study aimed to investigate the characteristics and the optimal conditions of the keratinase production. The materials used were keratinase from three Bacillus strains: Bacillus thuringensis BRAW_PT, Bacillus aerius BRAW_PB, and Bacillus subtilis BRAW_PI. The keratinase was investigated by sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS PAGE) and nondenaturing polyacrylamide gel electrophoresis (Native PAGE). Conditions of the production were optimized by pH, temperature and incubation time on enzyme activity. The molecular weights of all keratinases from Bacillus species were 94.803 kDa and 70.115 kDa. The optimum activity of keratinase from B. thuringensis BRAW_PT and B. firmus BRAW_PI was obtained at pH 8, while keratinase from B. aerius BRAW_PB was optimal at pH 6-8. Keratinase from B. thuringensis BRAW_PT has maximum activity at 25°C, whereas keratinase from B. aerius BRAW_PB and B. firmus BRAW_PI at 29°C. All keratinases from Bacillus species are optimal at 90 minutes incubation. Based on the principal component analysis (PCA), B. thuringensis BRAW_PT was discriminated from the other enzymes.
{"title":"Characterization and Production Optimization of Keratinase from Three Bacillus Strains","authors":"R. L. M. Wibowo, R. Yuliatmo","doi":"10.24264/LFJ.20.4.4","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.24264/LFJ.20.4.4","url":null,"abstract":"Indonesia has large coastal areas. The fisheries are good for exploitation. In the previous studies, bacteria producing keratinase were isolated from fish market waste. Keratinase enzyme is able to degrade keratin on the skin. Enzyme activity is influenced by external conditions, such as pH, temperature, and incubation time. The study aimed to investigate the characteristics and the optimal conditions of the keratinase production. The materials used were keratinase from three Bacillus strains: Bacillus thuringensis BRAW_PT, Bacillus aerius BRAW_PB, and Bacillus subtilis BRAW_PI. The keratinase was investigated by sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS PAGE) and nondenaturing polyacrylamide gel electrophoresis (Native PAGE). Conditions of the production were optimized by pH, temperature and incubation time on enzyme activity. The molecular weights of all keratinases from Bacillus species were 94.803 kDa and 70.115 kDa. The optimum activity of keratinase from B. thuringensis BRAW_PT and B. firmus BRAW_PI was obtained at pH 8, while keratinase from B. aerius BRAW_PB was optimal at pH 6-8. Keratinase from B. thuringensis BRAW_PT has maximum activity at 25°C, whereas keratinase from B. aerius BRAW_PB and B. firmus BRAW_PI at 29°C. All keratinases from Bacillus species are optimal at 90 minutes incubation. Based on the principal component analysis (PCA), B. thuringensis BRAW_PT was discriminated from the other enzymes.","PeriodicalId":38857,"journal":{"name":"Leather and Footwear Journal","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-12-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41784938","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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