Pub Date : 2023-10-05DOI: 10.1080/17543266.2023.2261023
Aleksandra Novikova, Frances Joseph, Donna Cleveland
ABSTRACTThis paper identifies and analyses current clothing options available to rock climbers in New Zealand, drawing from data collected via a survey of experienced climbers, relevant literature and a detailed design analysis of garments that are currently on the market. The study considers some of the limitations of current rock-climbing clothing and identifies issues that need to be taken into account to design more practical, responsive, sustainable clothing options for climbers. Drawing on professional design expertise in patternmaking, material selection and garment construction, this analysis is used to inform the development of more appropriate and innovative garment design strategies for rock-climbing. It also recognises the potential for novel development by employing innovations from the field of advanced textiles and apparel, in particular the integration of smart sensing technologies into garments.KEYWORDS: Rock-climbing clothinggarment designgarment analysispatternmakingsmart clothing Disclosure statementNo potential conflict of interest was reported by the author(s).Statement of ethicsResearch stages that involve human research participants are covered by the Ethics Application 21/171, approved by the Auckland University of Technology Ethics Committee (AUTEC).Data availability statementData sets associated with this paper can be requested from the corresponding author.
{"title":"Rock-climbing apparel: an analysis of current clothing options and future strategies for the design of rock-climbing clothing","authors":"Aleksandra Novikova, Frances Joseph, Donna Cleveland","doi":"10.1080/17543266.2023.2261023","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/17543266.2023.2261023","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACTThis paper identifies and analyses current clothing options available to rock climbers in New Zealand, drawing from data collected via a survey of experienced climbers, relevant literature and a detailed design analysis of garments that are currently on the market. The study considers some of the limitations of current rock-climbing clothing and identifies issues that need to be taken into account to design more practical, responsive, sustainable clothing options for climbers. Drawing on professional design expertise in patternmaking, material selection and garment construction, this analysis is used to inform the development of more appropriate and innovative garment design strategies for rock-climbing. It also recognises the potential for novel development by employing innovations from the field of advanced textiles and apparel, in particular the integration of smart sensing technologies into garments.KEYWORDS: Rock-climbing clothinggarment designgarment analysispatternmakingsmart clothing Disclosure statementNo potential conflict of interest was reported by the author(s).Statement of ethicsResearch stages that involve human research participants are covered by the Ethics Application 21/171, approved by the Auckland University of Technology Ethics Committee (AUTEC).Data availability statementData sets associated with this paper can be requested from the corresponding author.","PeriodicalId":39443,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-10-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135482812","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-09-29DOI: 10.1080/17543266.2023.2261019
Ju-Young M. Kang, Dooyoung Choi
ABSTRACTThe use of AI chatbot applications with social media messengers aims to shape the ‘online to offline' approach to chat-based purchases. Using a sequential mixed-methods approach, we examined customer experiences with and the uses and gratifications of AI chatbots, and the influence of customers' perceptions of service quality in AI-based customer services on favourable customer experiences, brand loyalty and purchase loyalty. Twenty-five online shoppers participated in our qualitative study, which was analysed using a thematic analysis. Subsequently, our quantitative study involving 423 online shoppers employed structural equation modelling. We identified that seeking an instant response, real-time information, fast navigation and transactions and useful advice and suggestions were the uses and gratifications of AI chatbots. Furthermore, customers’ perceptions of empathy and automated responsiveness in AI chatbots were determinants of positive customer experiences with AI-based customer services. Favourable customer experiences with AI chatbots affected brand loyalty, which in turn influenced purchase loyalty.KEYWORDS: Artificial intelligencechatbotsloyaltyservice qualityuses and gratifications Disclosure statementNo potential conflict of interest was reported by the author(s).Additional informationFundingThis work was supported by USDA National Institute of Food and Agriculture, Hatch project [HAW03536-H], managed by the College of Tropical Agriculture and Human Resources at the University of Hawai‘i at Manoa [grant number: HAW03536-H].
{"title":"Artificial intelligence-powered digital solutions in the fashion industry: a mixed-methods study on AI-based customer services","authors":"Ju-Young M. Kang, Dooyoung Choi","doi":"10.1080/17543266.2023.2261019","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/17543266.2023.2261019","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACTThe use of AI chatbot applications with social media messengers aims to shape the ‘online to offline' approach to chat-based purchases. Using a sequential mixed-methods approach, we examined customer experiences with and the uses and gratifications of AI chatbots, and the influence of customers' perceptions of service quality in AI-based customer services on favourable customer experiences, brand loyalty and purchase loyalty. Twenty-five online shoppers participated in our qualitative study, which was analysed using a thematic analysis. Subsequently, our quantitative study involving 423 online shoppers employed structural equation modelling. We identified that seeking an instant response, real-time information, fast navigation and transactions and useful advice and suggestions were the uses and gratifications of AI chatbots. Furthermore, customers’ perceptions of empathy and automated responsiveness in AI chatbots were determinants of positive customer experiences with AI-based customer services. Favourable customer experiences with AI chatbots affected brand loyalty, which in turn influenced purchase loyalty.KEYWORDS: Artificial intelligencechatbotsloyaltyservice qualityuses and gratifications Disclosure statementNo potential conflict of interest was reported by the author(s).Additional informationFundingThis work was supported by USDA National Institute of Food and Agriculture, Hatch project [HAW03536-H], managed by the College of Tropical Agriculture and Human Resources at the University of Hawai‘i at Manoa [grant number: HAW03536-H].","PeriodicalId":39443,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-09-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135194993","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-09-28DOI: 10.1080/17543266.2023.2261022
Laura McAndrews
ABSTRACTThis study aims to investigate an apparel firm’s job positions within the merchandising constituency, discover the organisation of teams within the merchandising constituency, and understand the cross-functional nature of the teams. A direct approach content analysis was conducted on the case study Gap Inc. to collect and analyse 476 job postings on their career website from February to August 2021. The findings illustrated how Gap Inc. organises its internal constituencies and merchandising constituency within a brand, division, job category, and department detailing job responsibilities and cross-functional partners. Further, the findings uncover product category teams that are the core of the merchandising constituency and are structured cross-functionally. This study contributes to the knowledge of the apparel firm, specifically the identification of the cross-functional product category teams.KEYWORDS: Cross-functional teamsbehavioural theory of the apparel firmapparel jobsmerchandising constituencyapparel merchandising competency framework Disclosure statementNo potential conflict of interest was reported by the author(s).
{"title":"A content analysis to understand the cross-functional nature of the merchandising constituency in the behavioural theory of the apparel firm","authors":"Laura McAndrews","doi":"10.1080/17543266.2023.2261022","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/17543266.2023.2261022","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACTThis study aims to investigate an apparel firm’s job positions within the merchandising constituency, discover the organisation of teams within the merchandising constituency, and understand the cross-functional nature of the teams. A direct approach content analysis was conducted on the case study Gap Inc. to collect and analyse 476 job postings on their career website from February to August 2021. The findings illustrated how Gap Inc. organises its internal constituencies and merchandising constituency within a brand, division, job category, and department detailing job responsibilities and cross-functional partners. Further, the findings uncover product category teams that are the core of the merchandising constituency and are structured cross-functionally. This study contributes to the knowledge of the apparel firm, specifically the identification of the cross-functional product category teams.KEYWORDS: Cross-functional teamsbehavioural theory of the apparel firmapparel jobsmerchandising constituencyapparel merchandising competency framework Disclosure statementNo potential conflict of interest was reported by the author(s).","PeriodicalId":39443,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-09-28","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135386186","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-09-10DOI: 10.1080/17543266.2023.2255911
A. J. C. de Wet, D. Smal
Creativity, driving environmentally sustainable fashion design through innovation, has become increasingly more important. From an educational perspective, enhancing students’ creative design thinking processes, presents several challenges, especially in blended learning. This article addresses this concern and reports on the implementation of a blended learning teaching framework, applied to support students’ positive emotions and creativity during an environmentally sustainable fashion design project that required innovative design solutions. The qualitative inquiry adopted a case study research design, involving undergraduate fashion design students at a tertiary institution in South Africa. Two key findings have emerged from the research. Firstly, the significant level of creativity required by the undertaken design project requires re-thinking of support for creative and innovative thinking. Secondly, a clearer understanding of the anxiousness caused when participants are faced with innovative design practices is needed to find suitable solutions. Based on the findings, this paper concludes with improvements presented in an amended framework.
{"title":"Innovative, environmentally sustainable fashion design: a blended learning teaching framework that supports positive emotions and creativity during a design process","authors":"A. J. C. de Wet, D. Smal","doi":"10.1080/17543266.2023.2255911","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/17543266.2023.2255911","url":null,"abstract":"Creativity, driving environmentally sustainable fashion design through innovation, has become increasingly more important. From an educational perspective, enhancing students’ creative design thinking processes, presents several challenges, especially in blended learning. This article addresses this concern and reports on the implementation of a blended learning teaching framework, applied to support students’ positive emotions and creativity during an environmentally sustainable fashion design project that required innovative design solutions. The qualitative inquiry adopted a case study research design, involving undergraduate fashion design students at a tertiary institution in South Africa. Two key findings have emerged from the research. Firstly, the significant level of creativity required by the undertaken design project requires re-thinking of support for creative and innovative thinking. Secondly, a clearer understanding of the anxiousness caused when participants are faced with innovative design practices is needed to find suitable solutions. Based on the findings, this paper concludes with improvements presented in an amended framework.","PeriodicalId":39443,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-09-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"136071240","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-09-08DOI: 10.1080/17543266.2023.2255879
M. Salzmann-Erikson, Henrik Eriksson
Fashion is a way to express identity and a ffi liations with speci fi c social networks, and sociocultural organisations of health care facilities are no exception. Employees in hospitals must adhere to strictly regulated dress code policies, albeit shoes are one of few markers that are not regulated. The aim of this study was to analyse the expressed team identity among healthcare sta ff by studying signs of personality traits they share with colleagues, as found in their choice of footwear. A total of 213 images of hospital footwear, posted on Instagram, were analysed utilising thematic content analysis. The results show that choice of footwear signals seven di ff erent personality traits: the anonymous, an understated conformist; the discreet standout, a subtle individualist; the doer on the move, an active and ready contributor; the naturist, a barefoot enthusiast; the superior tourist, a temporarily elite visitor; the outsider, an unconventional maverick; and the legend, a battle-scarred veteran.
{"title":"Hospital shoes and their owners: expressed team identity among healthcare staff by signs of their footwear","authors":"M. Salzmann-Erikson, Henrik Eriksson","doi":"10.1080/17543266.2023.2255879","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/17543266.2023.2255879","url":null,"abstract":"Fashion is a way to express identity and a ffi liations with speci fi c social networks, and sociocultural organisations of health care facilities are no exception. Employees in hospitals must adhere to strictly regulated dress code policies, albeit shoes are one of few markers that are not regulated. The aim of this study was to analyse the expressed team identity among healthcare sta ff by studying signs of personality traits they share with colleagues, as found in their choice of footwear. A total of 213 images of hospital footwear, posted on Instagram, were analysed utilising thematic content analysis. The results show that choice of footwear signals seven di ff erent personality traits: the anonymous, an understated conformist; the discreet standout, a subtle individualist; the doer on the move, an active and ready contributor; the naturist, a barefoot enthusiast; the superior tourist, a temporarily elite visitor; the outsider, an unconventional maverick; and the legend, a battle-scarred veteran.","PeriodicalId":39443,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-09-08","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"90232225","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-09-04DOI: 10.1080/17543266.2023.2250820
Peihua Lai, Stephen Westland, Sally Angharad Booth
{"title":"Pixel-based object recognition in fashion images to generate colour palettes","authors":"Peihua Lai, Stephen Westland, Sally Angharad Booth","doi":"10.1080/17543266.2023.2250820","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/17543266.2023.2250820","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":39443,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-09-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"84071336","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-09-03DOI: 10.1080/17543266.2023.2250814
T. Bui, Alba Cappellieri, B. Takacs
{"title":"The effectiveness of design practice for achieving sustainability and diffusing sustainable fashion","authors":"T. Bui, Alba Cappellieri, B. Takacs","doi":"10.1080/17543266.2023.2250814","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/17543266.2023.2250814","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":39443,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-09-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"91179088","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-08-23DOI: 10.1080/17543266.2023.2247425
J. Conlon, Charlene Gallery
{"title":"Developing digital skills: a fashion business masterclass in virtual 3D prototyping with Style3D","authors":"J. Conlon, Charlene Gallery","doi":"10.1080/17543266.2023.2247425","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/17543266.2023.2247425","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":39443,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-08-23","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"87387914","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-08-22DOI: 10.1080/17543266.2023.2249932
Wenna Han, Yingjiao Xu
{"title":"Chinese consumers’ adoption intention toward smart closet: a perspective of psychological needs and motivations","authors":"Wenna Han, Yingjiao Xu","doi":"10.1080/17543266.2023.2249932","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/17543266.2023.2249932","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":39443,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-08-22","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"87186036","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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