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We are What we Wear: A Mundane Slogan but Humane 我们是什么我们穿:一个平凡的口号,但人性化
Pub Date : 2019-12-12 DOI: 10.19080/ctftte.2019.05.555674
Ana Cristina F Almeida
How does Fashion Technology & Textile Engineering relates with Psychology was the first problem I equated. On a second thought, if I already came across references about history and social role of fashion, fashion and communication, studies about beauty, aesthetics, body image, identity, visible self, etc., the challenge to think about fashion technology in people’s daily life sounded to me like if I have been attracted to a newly inspiring indexing term, with potential to elucidate issues of my professional interest. Indeed, for decades I have been focused on human development and learning, inclusion and welfare throughout every stage of life. The perspective of supporting integral development, considering the most diverse dimensions, from sensory to cognitive, affective or social, ... and the view about learning on multiple literacies, bearing in mind abilities to read, understand and express using different languages, communicating and appreciating thoughts, feelings, signs and intuitions in different contexts, in fact, ought to embrace the ultimate skin layer: the tissues that bind us to the circumstances of living. Moreover, as Andy Clark and Dave Chalmers explore, there is an extended mind or “Where does the mind stop and the rest of the world begin?” [1] and argued, differently from those that accept that skin and skull are the limits and what is outside the body is outside the mind, that there is an active role of the environment in driving cognitive processes. External features are coupled with the human organism “playing a crucial role in the here-and-now”. A somehow related concept is the embodied mind [2].
时装技术与纺织工程与心理学的关系是我首先考虑的问题。再想想,如果我已经遇到了关于时尚的历史和社会角色、时尚和传播、关于美的研究、美学、身体形象、身份、可见自我等方面的参考文献,那么对我来说,思考时尚技术在人们日常生活中的挑战听起来就像我被一个新的鼓舞人心的索引术语所吸引,有可能阐明我的专业兴趣问题。事实上,几十年来,我一直关注人的发展、学习、包容和福祉,贯穿于人生的每个阶段。支持整体发展的观点,考虑到最多样化的维度,从感官到认知,情感或社会,……关于学习多种文化的观点,牢记用不同的语言阅读、理解和表达的能力,在不同的环境中交流和欣赏思想、感情、符号和直觉的能力,实际上,应该拥抱最终的皮肤层:将我们与生活环境联系在一起的组织。此外,正如安迪·克拉克和戴夫·查默斯所探索的那样,有一种延伸的思维,或者“思维在哪里停止,世界的其他部分从哪里开始?”[1]他认为,与那些认为皮肤和头骨是极限,身体之外的东西在头脑之外的人不同,环境在推动认知过程中起着积极的作用。外部特征与人体有机体相结合,“在此时此地发挥着至关重要的作用”。与之相关的概念是具身心灵[2]。
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引用次数: 0
We are What we Wear: A Mundane Slogan but Humane/h2> 我们是什么,我们穿什么:一个平凡但人性化的口号/h2>
Pub Date : 2019-12-12 DOI: 10.19080/ctftte.2019.05.555664
Ana Cristina F Almeida
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引用次数: 0
A Review Article on “Fast Fashion” 关于“快时尚”的评论文章
Pub Date : 2019-12-12 DOI: 10.19080/ctftte.2019.05.555675
T. V
The articulation fast fashion implies insignificant exertion attire collections that duplicate current lavishness configuration designs. Snappy structure fulfils significantly held needs among energetic buyers in the industrialized world for luxury style, even as it exemplifies unsustainability. Examples run their course with lightning speed, with the present latest styles rapidly besting yesterdays, which have quite recently been consigned to the decline container. This article watches out for the normal uproar among fast structure shoppers, who consistently share a stress for common issues even as they appreciate buyer plans opposing to natural acknowledged systems. Obviously fit at compartmentalize, and free of conflicted fault, such clients see no sensible irregularity in their Janus-stood up to needs. Would extravagance have the option to shape, with clearly an emphasis on validness, and its concomitants respect for specialist and nature, support estimations of both quality and sensibility. Since individual character reliably progresses and requires a physically referential reconsidering of self to do in that capacity, we gauge that genuine instead of fake excess brands can, by chance, join the guidelines of structure with those of biological practicality. Business. Among the two models the quick style model is entrenched, anyway the moderate design model is picking up significance as it disheartens bothersome intemperate utilization of apparel bringing about the waste reusing issues and danger to condition. The paper additionally peeps through the inward, miniaturized scale and large-scale components affecting the business condition of style industry and available resources to beat these elements to meet a definitive objective to set up effective association with clients with sensible benefit. The large-scale components are regularly alluded as PESTEL (political, financial, innovation, condition and lawful) factors. It has been brought up that among these PESTEL factors, directly the ecological variables and social elements of business morals are representing a genuine danger to the manageability of quick style model of the design business. The conventional showcasing and the board of quick style industry is encountering an unrest in light of the developing of online business. Since the presentation of online business, associations have had the alternative to use the Internet in reducing costs related with acquiring, administering supplier associations, streamlining coordination and stock, and making essential good position and powerful utilization of business re-building. Online business enables organizations to improve interchanges inside the production network and upgrade administration offering, in this manner giving opportunities to focused separation. That may clarify why such huge numbers of internet retailing organizations converged in China as of late, for example, Joyo Amazon, Dingdong, Taobao, Vancl and 360 buys. This article tak
衔接快时尚意味着不起眼的运动服装系列,复制当前的奢华配置设计。时髦的结构满足了工业化世界中精力充沛的买家对奢华风格的强烈需求,即使它是不可持续的例证。样品以闪电般的速度出售,目前最新的款式迅速超越了昨天的款式,而这些款式最近才被放入衰退的容器中。本文将关注快速结构购买者之间的正常骚动,尽管他们欣赏反对自然认可系统的买方计划,但他们始终对共同问题感到压力。这类客户显然适合于划分,没有冲突的错误,在他们的双面人身上没有明显的不规则之处——经得起需求的考验。铺张浪费是否可以选择塑造,明确强调有效性,以及随之而来的对专家和自然的尊重,支持对质量和敏感性的评估?由于个人性格的发展是可靠的,并且需要对自我进行身体上的参照性反思,因此我们认为,真正的、而不是虚假的过量品牌,可以偶然地将结构指导原则与生物实用性指导原则结合起来。业务。在这两种模式中,快速风格模式是根深蒂固的,无论如何,适度的设计模式正在发挥作用,因为它使服装的无节制使用变得麻烦,带来了废物再利用问题和对条件的危险。此外,本文还通过内向型的、小型化的规模和大规模的影响时尚产业经营状况的要素,以及可利用的资源来窥探这些要素,以达到一个明确的目标,与客户建立有效的关联,并获得合理的利益。大规模因素通常被称为PESTEL(政治、金融、创新、条件和法律)因素。在这些PESTEL因素中,直接的生态变量和商业道德的社会因素对设计企业快速风格模式的可管理性构成了真正的威胁。随着网络商务的发展,传统的快时尚行业展示和展板正遭遇动荡。自从网上商务出现以来,协会可以选择使用互联网来降低与采购相关的成本,管理供应商协会,简化协调和库存,并对业务重建进行必要的有利定位和有力利用。在线业务使组织能够改进生产网络内部的交换并升级管理服务,以这种方式提供了集中分离的机会。这或许可以解释为什么最近有如此多的互联网零售机构在中国聚集,比如卓越亚马逊、叮咚、淘宝、凡客和360购物。本文以Zara和凡客诚品为研究对象进行语境调查,分析了近年来快时尚行业融合网络零售组织的成就,并为中国快时尚行业今后的发展提出了建议
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引用次数: 0
A Review of Some Significant Research Trends in Thermophysiological Comfort of Fabrics to Suit Varied Areas of Applications and Weather Conditions 适应不同应用领域和气候条件的织物热生理舒适性研究进展综述
Pub Date : 2019-12-11 DOI: 10.19080/ctftte.2019.05.555673
K. S.
The article critically reviews some significant trends attempted in enhancing the thermal comfort of fabrics. One attempt has been directed towards providing protective clothing for workers in harsh weather conditions of extreme cold climate. It aimed to determine how the people working in cold harsh climatic regions protect themselves against cold and the sufficiency, and the selection criteria of the garments. Basic thermal insulation of the reported clothing has been estimated. The thermal insulation of the clothing have been measured by thermal manikin(standing/walking). It has been found that the thermal insulation of the selected clothing was on an average 1.2 and 1.5 in mild cold (-5 to +5 °C) and dry cold (-20 to -10 °C) conditions, respectively. The findings revealed that workers selected their clothing based on occupational (time outdoors), environmental (temperature, wind, moisture) and individual (cold sensitivity, general health). A special design of clothing based on ‘sombero-effect’ by inclined wedge providing shadow on the base material has been proposed and investigated analytically to improve the thermophysiological comfort under dry and hot environment. The analysis of the heat and mass transfer in the proposed design enables numerical prediction of cooling heat flow at skin surface level. It is observed that the analytical framework of heat and mass transfer is able to give useful results. A pressure relieving mattress has been developed along with multilayered functional bed cover to reduce the magnitude, direction and or duration of pressure and temperature, thereby avoiding excessive tissue distortion on vulnerable parts of the body. The interface pressure and temperature between body and mattress are measured and analyzed using the parameters, such as deformation index and pressure gradient. The pressure relieving mattress developed reduces the interface pressure by 30-60% and reduces the pressure by about 3oC. Hence, the new mattress developed along with the cover reduces the chance for pressure ulcer formation and improves the comfort of the patients. In yet another interesting research, a study of indexes characterizing thermal comfort of garments have been outlined and a new so-called wet comfort index of sport dresses and underwear at real conditions of their use have been presented. The maximum value 1 indicates the best thermophysiological comfort level in wet state. It is found that for best sport dresses consisting of special polyester and polypropylene surface grooved fibres, the wet comfort index does not exceed 0.2. This surprisingly low level demonstrates the importance of testing of thermal comfort properties of fabrics in wet state by means of special instruments.
文章批判性地回顾了一些重要的趋势,试图提高织物的热舒适性。一项尝试是为在极端寒冷气候的恶劣天气条件下工作的工人提供防护服。它旨在确定在寒冷恶劣气候地区工作的人们如何防寒,服装的充分性和选择标准。所报道的服装的基本隔热性能已经过估计。通过热人体模型(站立/行走)测量服装的隔热性能。研究发现,在温和寒冷(-5至+5°C)和干冷(-20至-10°C)条件下,所选服装的隔热系数平均分别为1.2和1.5。调查结果显示,工人们根据职业(户外时间)、环境(温度、风、湿度)和个人(对寒冷的敏感性、总体健康状况)来选择衣服。提出了一种基于“索姆罗效应”的特殊服装设计,通过斜楔在基材上提供阴影来提高干热环境下的热生理舒适性,并进行了分析研究。通过对传热传质过程的分析,可以对皮肤表面的冷却热流进行数值预测。观察到,传热传质的分析框架能够给出有用的结果。一种减压床垫与多层功能床罩一起开发,以减少压力和温度的大小,方向和/或持续时间,从而避免对身体脆弱部位的过度组织扭曲。利用变形指数和压力梯度等参数对人体与床垫之间的界面压力和温度进行了测量和分析。所研制的卸压垫可使界面压力降低30-60%,压力降低约3℃。因此,随着盖子的新床垫开发减少了压疮形成的机会,提高了患者的舒适度。在另一项有趣的研究中,对表征服装热舒适的指数进行了研究,并提出了一种新的运动服装和内衣在实际使用条件下的所谓湿舒适指数。最大值为1表示湿态时的最佳热生理舒适度。研究发现,以特种涤纶和聚丙烯表面开槽纤维制成的最佳运动服装,湿舒适指数不超过0.2。这一令人惊讶的低水平表明了通过特殊仪器测试织物湿态热舒适性能的重要性。
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引用次数: 2
Clothing is a Poison in Real Life 衣服是现实生活中的毒药
Pub Date : 2019-12-05 DOI: 10.19080/ctftte.2019.05.555662
Pen-Pen Chen
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引用次数: 0
Effect of Micro Phase Change Materials on Thermal Behavior of Lather 微相变材料对泡沫热行为的影响
Pub Date : 2019-11-14 DOI: 10.19080/ctftte.2019.05.555671
Siamak Nazemi
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引用次数: 0
The Use of Latex in Onanism: Benefits and Risks 在Onanism中使用乳胶:益处和风险
Pub Date : 2019-11-06 DOI: 10.19080/ctftte.2019.05.555670
Lord Kelvin O Latex
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引用次数: 0
Comparative Analysis of Mechanical Behavior of Unconventional Natural Fibers and their Union Fabrics 非常规天然纤维及其结合织物力学性能的比较分析
Pub Date : 2019-11-04 DOI: 10.19080/ctftte.2019.05.555669
Behera Bk
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引用次数: 1
Design Development and Manufacture of Novel Dyeing/Washing Lab Model Machine 新型染洗实验样机的设计、开发与制造
Pub Date : 2019-11-01 DOI: 10.19080/ctftte.2019.05.555668
Sampath Vr
Wet processing industries and laboratories were facing dyeing problems because of its unmanageable dye accessories and inadequate technology. Basically, there are a lot of laboratory materials or equipment’s in a laboratory such as beakers, stoves, thermometer, and stirrers which required to be maintained. In the laboratory as a common practice both the dyeing process and the washing process are done separately at different places. This process takes space, cost and time as well. The cost of equipment’s like stove is expensive and moreover very difficult to repair with inadequate supply of spares. Washing is done manually and due to the chemicals used during the dyeing process that causes hazardous to the experimenter, resulting in different skin diseases, breathing problem and so on. The other problem is the amount of MLR is limited, maximum up to 20gm of fabric so it is difficult or might cause uncertainty how the dye reacts on and its evenness or difficult to see if shade variation occurs on that particularly limited small sample. In this study we tried to solve two issues namely high cost due to material such as beaker, thermometer and expensive stoves. The Space minimization and improvement of experimenter safety is the other objective of this project and the design and development of integrated dyeing and washing machine process. Manual washing system was completely eliminated in the new design and methods to increase the MLR of the fabric from to 20gr to 1 kg. The fabrication was conducted at EiTEX laboratory, Bahir Dar University, Bahir Dar. The trails on the effective working of the machine were studied. The designed lab model is robust, easy to operate, safety to experimenter and at affordable cost.
湿法加工工业和实验室面临着染色问题,因为它的染料辅料难以管理和技术不完善。基本上,实验室里有很多实验室材料或设备,如烧杯、炉子、温度计和搅拌器,这些都需要维护。在实验室中,染色过程和洗涤过程是在不同的地方分开进行的。这个过程也需要空间、成本和时间。像炉子这样的设备成本昂贵,而且由于备件供应不足,维修非常困难。洗涤是手工完成的,由于染色过程中使用的化学品对实验者造成危险,导致不同的皮肤病,呼吸问题等。另一个问题是,MLR的数量是有限的,最多不超过20克的织物,所以很难或可能会导致不确定染料如何反应,以及它的均匀性,或者很难看到在特别有限的小样本上是否发生了颜色变化。在这项研究中,我们试图解决两个问题,即高成本由于材料,如烧杯,温度计和昂贵的炉具。最小化空间和提高实验人员的安全性是本项目的另一个目标,也是设计和开发印洗一体化工艺的目标。在新的设计和方法中完全消除了手动洗涤系统,将织物的MLR从20克提高到1公斤。制作是在Bahir Dar大学EiTEX实验室进行的。研究了对机器有效工作的影响。所设计的实验模型坚固耐用,操作方便,对实验人员安全,成本合理。
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引用次数: 0
Syncretisms
Pub Date : 2019-10-29 DOI: 10.19080/ctftte.2019.05.555667
Massimo Canevacci
My anthropology assumes syncretism as a key word for understanding the transformation in the relationship between cultures and ethnography. Within the conflictual processes of globalisation and localisation, syncretism involves, disturbs, and overwhelms the traditional ways of producing ubiquitous culture, fetish consumption, and digital communication. The term ‘syncretism’ not only helps with the comprehension of a context of accelerated and confused transformations, but also addresses growing communicative disorders alongside a creative, decentralised, and open movement of the term. The paradox of being an instable word inhabits syncretism, due to its continuous change of meanings. Often, the word syncretism is embellished with elegant or more conflicting synonyms, such as pastiche, patchwork, marronisation, hybridism, blending, mulattism, and acculturation: all related to the ambiguous game played by so-called cross-cultural contamination. As part of this game ́s excessive inconsistency, vulgarity and indigenisation, all the clichés of the trio aesthetic-ethic-ethnic are broken and stirred up, as are everyday’s behaviours and lifestyles. Ultimately, through digital mixing, syncretism invests, dissolves, and reshapes the relationship between strange and familiar levels; and the liaisons among elite, mass, and avant-garde cultures.
我的人类学假设融合是理解文化和民族志之间关系转变的关键字。在全球化和本地化的冲突过程中,融合主义涉及、扰乱并颠覆了生产无处不在的文化、恋物消费和数字通信的传统方式。“融合”一词不仅有助于理解加速和混乱转变的背景,而且还解决了日益增长的交流障碍,以及该术语的创造性,分散化和开放运动。作为一个不稳定的词的悖论,由于它的不断变化的意义,居住在融合。通常,“融合”这个词会被一些优雅的或更矛盾的同义词修饰,比如pastiche, patchwork, marronisation, hybridism, blending, mulattism和acculturation:所有这些都与所谓的跨文化污染所玩的暧昧游戏有关。作为这个游戏过度的不一致、粗俗和本土化的一部分,美学-伦理-民族三重奏的所有陈词滥调都被打破和激起了,就像日常行为和生活方式一样。最终,通过数字混合,融合投资,溶解和重塑陌生和熟悉层面之间的关系;以及精英、大众和前卫文化之间的联系。
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引用次数: 0
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Current Trends in Fashion Technology & Textile Engineering
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