Pub Date : 2014-10-02DOI: 10.1080/00405167.2014.980639
R. Shamey, Weethima Sawatwarakul
Even though animal fibres contribute a comparatively low proportion of world fibre production, they are highly sought after and play a significant role in the luxury, high value-added end of the market. Natural protein fibres have two major classes, which may be categorized as keratin fibres (hair or fur), such as wool, cashmere, and other animal hairs, and secreted (insect) fibres with silk as the main fibre in this category. Colouration of protein fibres is characterized by many variables, each with a different effect on the final product. Indeed it is quite complicated to achieve the intended colour in the first dyeing attempt. Dyeing defects are not always due to the actual dyeing process, but may be introduced in earlier production and processing stages. This work attempts to provide a detailed review of the major issues in the dyeing of various protein textile materials in different forms such as loose fibre, yarn, fabric, and garment. An overview of different types of protein fibres is given and a summary of current industrial practices for the dyeing of protein fibres is provided followed by key variables that affect the control of colour in the dyeing of protein fibres. Key steps and critical factors involved in the production of dyed protein textile materials are described in detail and solutions to the problems that may arise at each stage are provided.
{"title":"Innovative critical solutions in the dyeing of protein textile materials","authors":"R. Shamey, Weethima Sawatwarakul","doi":"10.1080/00405167.2014.980639","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405167.2014.980639","url":null,"abstract":"Even though animal fibres contribute a comparatively low proportion of world fibre production, they are highly sought after and play a significant role in the luxury, high value-added end of the market. Natural protein fibres have two major classes, which may be categorized as keratin fibres (hair or fur), such as wool, cashmere, and other animal hairs, and secreted (insect) fibres with silk as the main fibre in this category. Colouration of protein fibres is characterized by many variables, each with a different effect on the final product. Indeed it is quite complicated to achieve the intended colour in the first dyeing attempt. Dyeing defects are not always due to the actual dyeing process, but may be introduced in earlier production and processing stages. This work attempts to provide a detailed review of the major issues in the dyeing of various protein textile materials in different forms such as loose fibre, yarn, fabric, and garment. An overview of different types of protein fibres is given and a summary of current industrial practices for the dyeing of protein fibres is provided followed by key variables that affect the control of colour in the dyeing of protein fibres. Key steps and critical factors involved in the production of dyed protein textile materials are described in detail and solutions to the problems that may arise at each stage are provided.","PeriodicalId":45059,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE PROGRESS","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.0,"publicationDate":"2014-10-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00405167.2014.980639","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"58907535","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2014-07-03DOI: 10.1080/00405167.2014.973247
H. McCormick, Joan Cartwright, Patsy Perry, L. Barnes, S. Lynch, Gemma Ball
This issue of Textile Progress reviews the way that fashion retailing has developed as a result of the application of the World Wide Web and information and communications technology (ICT) by fashion-retail companies. The review therefore first considers how fashion retailing has evolved, analysing retail formats, global strategies, emerging and developing economies, and the factors that are threatening and driving growth in the fashion-retail market. The second part of the review considers the emergence of omni-channel retailing, analysing how retail has progressed and developed since the adoption of the Internet and how ICT initiatives such as mobile commerce (m-commerce), digital visualisation online, and in-store and self-service technologies have been proven to support the progression and expansion of fashion retailing. The paper concludes with recommendations on future research opportunities for gaining a better understanding of the impacts of ICT and omni-channel retailing, through which it may be possible to increase and develop knowledge and understanding of the way the sector is developing and provide fresh impetus to an already-innovative and competitive industry.
{"title":"Fashion retailing – past, present and future","authors":"H. McCormick, Joan Cartwright, Patsy Perry, L. Barnes, S. Lynch, Gemma Ball","doi":"10.1080/00405167.2014.973247","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405167.2014.973247","url":null,"abstract":"This issue of Textile Progress reviews the way that fashion retailing has developed as a result of the application of the World Wide Web and information and communications technology (ICT) by fashion-retail companies. The review therefore first considers how fashion retailing has evolved, analysing retail formats, global strategies, emerging and developing economies, and the factors that are threatening and driving growth in the fashion-retail market. The second part of the review considers the emergence of omni-channel retailing, analysing how retail has progressed and developed since the adoption of the Internet and how ICT initiatives such as mobile commerce (m-commerce), digital visualisation online, and in-store and self-service technologies have been proven to support the progression and expansion of fashion retailing. The paper concludes with recommendations on future research opportunities for gaining a better understanding of the impacts of ICT and omni-channel retailing, through which it may be possible to increase and develop knowledge and understanding of the way the sector is developing and provide fresh impetus to an already-innovative and competitive industry.","PeriodicalId":45059,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE PROGRESS","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.0,"publicationDate":"2014-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00405167.2014.973247","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"58907526","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2014-04-03DOI: 10.1080/00405167.2014.964474
R. Mishra, J. Militký, V. Baheti, J. Huang, Bandu Madhukar Kale, M. Venkataraman, V. Bele, V. Arumugam, G. Zhu, Yan Wang
Nanosized particles can exhibit unexpected properties different from those of the original bulk material. The basic premise is that properties can dramatically change when a substance's size is reduced to the nanometre range. The applications of nanoparticles, e.g. carbon black or some finishing agents in the textile industry, have a long tradition but are in fact not part of nanotechnology. A typical feature of nanotechnology in textiles is to use nanoparticles with some systematic arrangements. In this manuscript, the main features of nanotechnology are summarized. A core part is devoted to the description of the nanoparticle behaviour arising from their small dimensions. The problem of nanoparticle stabilization is denoted. Selected applications of nanoparticles in the textile field are reviewed.
{"title":"The production, characterization and applications of nanoparticles in the textile industry","authors":"R. Mishra, J. Militký, V. Baheti, J. Huang, Bandu Madhukar Kale, M. Venkataraman, V. Bele, V. Arumugam, G. Zhu, Yan Wang","doi":"10.1080/00405167.2014.964474","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405167.2014.964474","url":null,"abstract":"Nanosized particles can exhibit unexpected properties different from those of the original bulk material. The basic premise is that properties can dramatically change when a substance's size is reduced to the nanometre range. The applications of nanoparticles, e.g. carbon black or some finishing agents in the textile industry, have a long tradition but are in fact not part of nanotechnology. A typical feature of nanotechnology in textiles is to use nanoparticles with some systematic arrangements. In this manuscript, the main features of nanotechnology are summarized. A core part is devoted to the description of the nanoparticle behaviour arising from their small dimensions. The problem of nanoparticle stabilization is denoted. Selected applications of nanoparticles in the textile field are reviewed.","PeriodicalId":45059,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE PROGRESS","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.0,"publicationDate":"2014-04-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00405167.2014.964474","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"58907515","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2014-01-02DOI: 10.1080/00405167.2014.942582
K. P. Tang, C. Kan, Jintu Fan
The liquid absorption and transport properties of fabrics are critical not only to the success of wet processes such as dyeing, printing and finishing, but also to the performance of products such as sports clothes, performance clothing, disposable hygiene materials and medical products. During wear, moisture in clothing has been found to be the most significant factor contributing to discomfort. The presence of sweat will increase friction between fabric and skin, trigger a clingy sensation and eventually increase the level of fatigue felt by the wearer. This problem will be even more severe for clothing worn under extreme environmental conditions or at high activity levels. Fabrics with excellent water absorption and transport properties have the potential to minimise the wetness sensation on skin, facilitate the evaporation of sweat and aid comfort. Hence, as a product developer or clothing manufacturer, it is essential to choose the appropriate measurement method to characterise the water absorption and transport properties of fabric. This paper reviews different subjective (by people–subjects) and objective (by instruments–objects) evaluation methods for assessing wetness comfort, and determining water absorption and transport properties of fabrics. Since perception of wetness is a complex process with a number of stimuli from clothing and external environments communicated by human sensory receptors, subjective assessment with its better representation of the real wear situation is preferred. The review starts by introducing human physiology, describing hepatic perception of wetness, followed by methods for use in experiments on assessor control, setting of environmental conditions, types of touch, the usual body sites for testing, and a summary of methods for measuring physiological and perception changes using psychological or psychophysical scaling procedures. Despite its advantage of more closely simulating the real wear condition, performing a subjective test is time-consuming and expensive. Its accuracy depends on the reliability of the assessors and the result may vary between assessors. Objective measurement might therefore provide an attractive alternative. In this study, details of objective instrumental measurements are summarised according to the technology applied, and include gravimetric, observation-based, optical, spectroscopic, electrical, pressure-based, magnetic resonance and temperature detection methods. The principles, advantages and limitations of each method are systematically compared and discussed. Practical recommendations are proposed, particularly for enhancing the accuracy, reproducibility and/or simplicity of the methods. The objective of this review is to present an overview of various measurement methods, both subjective and objective. It is intended to form a basis for enabling fabric engineers to choose the most suitable analytical test method(s) when developing new fabric products with respect to performa
{"title":"Evaluation of water absorption and transport property of fabrics","authors":"K. P. Tang, C. Kan, Jintu Fan","doi":"10.1080/00405167.2014.942582","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405167.2014.942582","url":null,"abstract":"The liquid absorption and transport properties of fabrics are critical not only to the success of wet processes such as dyeing, printing and finishing, but also to the performance of products such as sports clothes, performance clothing, disposable hygiene materials and medical products. During wear, moisture in clothing has been found to be the most significant factor contributing to discomfort. The presence of sweat will increase friction between fabric and skin, trigger a clingy sensation and eventually increase the level of fatigue felt by the wearer. This problem will be even more severe for clothing worn under extreme environmental conditions or at high activity levels. Fabrics with excellent water absorption and transport properties have the potential to minimise the wetness sensation on skin, facilitate the evaporation of sweat and aid comfort. Hence, as a product developer or clothing manufacturer, it is essential to choose the appropriate measurement method to characterise the water absorption and transport properties of fabric. This paper reviews different subjective (by people–subjects) and objective (by instruments–objects) evaluation methods for assessing wetness comfort, and determining water absorption and transport properties of fabrics. Since perception of wetness is a complex process with a number of stimuli from clothing and external environments communicated by human sensory receptors, subjective assessment with its better representation of the real wear situation is preferred. The review starts by introducing human physiology, describing hepatic perception of wetness, followed by methods for use in experiments on assessor control, setting of environmental conditions, types of touch, the usual body sites for testing, and a summary of methods for measuring physiological and perception changes using psychological or psychophysical scaling procedures. Despite its advantage of more closely simulating the real wear condition, performing a subjective test is time-consuming and expensive. Its accuracy depends on the reliability of the assessors and the result may vary between assessors. Objective measurement might therefore provide an attractive alternative. In this study, details of objective instrumental measurements are summarised according to the technology applied, and include gravimetric, observation-based, optical, spectroscopic, electrical, pressure-based, magnetic resonance and temperature detection methods. The principles, advantages and limitations of each method are systematically compared and discussed. Practical recommendations are proposed, particularly for enhancing the accuracy, reproducibility and/or simplicity of the methods. The objective of this review is to present an overview of various measurement methods, both subjective and objective. It is intended to form a basis for enabling fabric engineers to choose the most suitable analytical test method(s) when developing new fabric products with respect to performa","PeriodicalId":45059,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE PROGRESS","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.0,"publicationDate":"2014-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00405167.2014.942582","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"58907474","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2013-12-01DOI: 10.1080/00405167.2013.859435
R. Nayak, Rajiv Padhye, Kanesalingam Sinnappoo, Lyndon Arnold, B. Behera
In recent years, safety systems such as seat belts and airbags have been one of the fast-growing sectors within the automotive industry. Seat belts and airbags have made driving substantially safer since their introduction. Airbags are safety systems used to cushion the driver or passenger during a collision and reduce bodily injuries. The technology involved in the manufacturing and working of airbags is complex. Since the early stages of development, airbag technology has been undergoing continual evolution in terms of design, materials and performance. Airbags are typically made from woven fabric, which may be coated or uncoated but must be impermeable to gases and flame resistant. In terms of their operation, modern airbags are smart restraint systems, which can tailor the deployment of the airbag according to the crash severity, body size of the occupant and proximity of the occupant to the airbag system prior to deployment. The future of airbags is extremely promising because there are many diverse applications ranging from motorcycle helmets to aircraft seating. In this article, an outline is given of the historical development of airbags and their value in saving lives is illustrated by supporting statistical data. The essential parameters required for airbag yarn and fabric components are discussed in detail. In addition, the processes involved in the manufacture, assembly and testing of airbag systems are explained. The mechanisms and chemical reactions involved in the deployment of different types of airbags are also discussed, and recent developments in airbag design and their possible future applications are reported.
{"title":"Airbags","authors":"R. Nayak, Rajiv Padhye, Kanesalingam Sinnappoo, Lyndon Arnold, B. Behera","doi":"10.1080/00405167.2013.859435","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405167.2013.859435","url":null,"abstract":"In recent years, safety systems such as seat belts and airbags have been one of the fast-growing sectors within the automotive industry. Seat belts and airbags have made driving substantially safer since their introduction. Airbags are safety systems used to cushion the driver or passenger during a collision and reduce bodily injuries. The technology involved in the manufacturing and working of airbags is complex. Since the early stages of development, airbag technology has been undergoing continual evolution in terms of design, materials and performance. Airbags are typically made from woven fabric, which may be coated or uncoated but must be impermeable to gases and flame resistant. In terms of their operation, modern airbags are smart restraint systems, which can tailor the deployment of the airbag according to the crash severity, body size of the occupant and proximity of the occupant to the airbag system prior to deployment. The future of airbags is extremely promising because there are many diverse applications ranging from motorcycle helmets to aircraft seating. In this article, an outline is given of the historical development of airbags and their value in saving lives is illustrated by supporting statistical data. The essential parameters required for airbag yarn and fabric components are discussed in detail. In addition, the processes involved in the manufacture, assembly and testing of airbag systems are explained. The mechanisms and chemical reactions involved in the deployment of different types of airbags are also discussed, and recent developments in airbag design and their possible future applications are reported.","PeriodicalId":45059,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE PROGRESS","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.0,"publicationDate":"2013-12-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00405167.2013.859435","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"58907396","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2013-09-01DOI: 10.1080/00405167.2013.868677
L. Barnes
This issue of Textile Progress provides a critical literature review and reflection relating to academic research in the field of fashion marketing. As the topic has not been reviewed before in Textile Progress, the paper takes the concepts of marketing and fashion in turn, exploring the literature from its origins to the present day and then considers how and why these two concepts have become merged to form a discrete academic research theme. The exploration of marketing includes a discussion of the origins of the marketing concept which emerged in the 1950s alongside the growth in mass consumerism. The paper discusses the ubiquitous ‘marketing mix’ theory and explains how research in marketing shifted its focus in the 1980s and 1990s as new paradigms developed, and their applicability to the marketing concept were debated. The concept of fashion is considered in terms of the context of historical research on fashion, for example, from the sociological or psychological perspective, and how the concept of fashion can be considered both academically and commercially. The review then goes on to evaluate the concept of fashion marketing as a discrete area for academic research, arguing that it has distinct theoretical perspectives from those of pure ‘marketing’ or ‘fashion’ theory, and culminating in a review of contemporary research in the field of fashion marketing, specifically that relating to fast fashion and ‘digital’ fashion marketing.
{"title":"Fashion marketing","authors":"L. Barnes","doi":"10.1080/00405167.2013.868677","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405167.2013.868677","url":null,"abstract":"This issue of Textile Progress provides a critical literature review and reflection relating to academic research in the field of fashion marketing. As the topic has not been reviewed before in Textile Progress, the paper takes the concepts of marketing and fashion in turn, exploring the literature from its origins to the present day and then considers how and why these two concepts have become merged to form a discrete academic research theme. The exploration of marketing includes a discussion of the origins of the marketing concept which emerged in the 1950s alongside the growth in mass consumerism. The paper discusses the ubiquitous ‘marketing mix’ theory and explains how research in marketing shifted its focus in the 1980s and 1990s as new paradigms developed, and their applicability to the marketing concept were debated. The concept of fashion is considered in terms of the context of historical research on fashion, for example, from the sociological or psychological perspective, and how the concept of fashion can be considered both academically and commercially. The review then goes on to evaluate the concept of fashion marketing as a discrete area for academic research, arguing that it has distinct theoretical perspectives from those of pure ‘marketing’ or ‘fashion’ theory, and culminating in a review of contemporary research in the field of fashion marketing, specifically that relating to fast fashion and ‘digital’ fashion marketing.","PeriodicalId":45059,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE PROGRESS","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.0,"publicationDate":"2013-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00405167.2013.868677","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"58907462","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2013-09-01DOI: 10.1080/00405167.2013.845540
M. Morrissey, R. Rossi
Abstract Participation in outdoor activities can improve mental, physical and social well-being. Such activities also present significant physiological strain and risks such as hypothermia; therefore, correct choice and usage of clothing is extremely important. The aim of this review is to critically analyse the literature regarding outdoor clothing systems, focusing on the layers comprising a typical clothing system. Additionally, alternative systems, potential improvements and future trends are discussed.
{"title":"Clothing systems for outdoor activities","authors":"M. Morrissey, R. Rossi","doi":"10.1080/00405167.2013.845540","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405167.2013.845540","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Participation in outdoor activities can improve mental, physical and social well-being. Such activities also present significant physiological strain and risks such as hypothermia; therefore, correct choice and usage of clothing is extremely important. The aim of this review is to critically analyse the literature regarding outdoor clothing systems, focusing on the layers comprising a typical clothing system. Additionally, alternative systems, potential improvements and future trends are discussed.","PeriodicalId":45059,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE PROGRESS","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.0,"publicationDate":"2013-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00405167.2013.845540","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"58907382","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2013-03-01DOI: 10.1080/00405167.2013.807601
A. Roy Choudhury
In contrast to non-sustainable, non-renewable fossil-fuel-based conventional chemical processes, so-called green reactions are sustainable, highly-efficient (fewer steps, fewer resources, less waste) and stable under ambient conditions and much more eco-friendly (achieved by the use of non-hazardous solvents and less-hazardous, minimized waste). They are assessed by 12 principles established by Anastas and Warner [Green Chemistry: Theory and Practice, Oxford University Press, New York, 1998]. Recently steps have been taken to make textile materials and processing more environmentally friendly (or ‘greener’), including fibre production, dyes and auxiliaries, solvents, optimized and efficient processing with recycling of water and chemicals, bio-processing, the elimination of hazardous chemicals and the recycling of textile materials, and whilst it is acknowledged that mechanical aspects of textile processing also contribute to achievement of sustainability, this review focuses on the chemistry deployed.
{"title":"Green chemistry and the textile industry","authors":"A. Roy Choudhury","doi":"10.1080/00405167.2013.807601","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405167.2013.807601","url":null,"abstract":"In contrast to non-sustainable, non-renewable fossil-fuel-based conventional chemical processes, so-called green reactions are sustainable, highly-efficient (fewer steps, fewer resources, less waste) and stable under ambient conditions and much more eco-friendly (achieved by the use of non-hazardous solvents and less-hazardous, minimized waste). They are assessed by 12 principles established by Anastas and Warner [Green Chemistry: Theory and Practice, Oxford University Press, New York, 1998]. Recently steps have been taken to make textile materials and processing more environmentally friendly (or ‘greener’), including fibre production, dyes and auxiliaries, solvents, optimized and efficient processing with recycling of water and chemicals, bio-processing, the elimination of hazardous chemicals and the recycling of textile materials, and whilst it is acknowledged that mechanical aspects of textile processing also contribute to achievement of sustainability, this review focuses on the chemistry deployed.","PeriodicalId":45059,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE PROGRESS","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.0,"publicationDate":"2013-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00405167.2013.807601","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"58907280","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2012-09-01DOI: 10.1080/00405167.2012.739345
N. Erdumlu, B. Ozipek, W. Oxenham
The latest development in air jet spinning technology is the Murata Vortex Spinner (MVS), which was firstly introduced at Osaka International Textile Machinery Show OTEMAS '97 by Murata Machinery Ltd. targeting the regular wear and casual fashion markets. Besides the main characteristics of modern spinning technologies, such as elimination of processing stages and ease of automation, distinctive features of the system are claimed to be the capability of spinning 100% carded cotton yarn and obtaining ring-like yarn structure at extremely high production speeds of up to 500 m/min. This paper outlines the historical background of vortex spinning technology, the spinning principle and the structure of the yarn spun on this system, as well as the factors having impacts on the yarn quality and hence on the end use properties. In addition, the properties of the vortex yarns and fabrics are evaluated in comparison to other spun yarns and fabrics. Finally, the paper deals with the economics of this novel system.
{"title":"Vortex spinning technology","authors":"N. Erdumlu, B. Ozipek, W. Oxenham","doi":"10.1080/00405167.2012.739345","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405167.2012.739345","url":null,"abstract":"The latest development in air jet spinning technology is the Murata Vortex Spinner (MVS), which was firstly introduced at Osaka International Textile Machinery Show OTEMAS '97 by Murata Machinery Ltd. targeting the regular wear and casual fashion markets. Besides the main characteristics of modern spinning technologies, such as elimination of processing stages and ease of automation, distinctive features of the system are claimed to be the capability of spinning 100% carded cotton yarn and obtaining ring-like yarn structure at extremely high production speeds of up to 500 m/min. This paper outlines the historical background of vortex spinning technology, the spinning principle and the structure of the yarn spun on this system, as well as the factors having impacts on the yarn quality and hence on the end use properties. In addition, the properties of the vortex yarns and fabrics are evaluated in comparison to other spun yarns and fabrics. Finally, the paper deals with the economics of this novel system.","PeriodicalId":45059,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE PROGRESS","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.0,"publicationDate":"2012-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00405167.2012.739345","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"58907163","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2012-09-01DOI: 10.1080/00405167.2012.735517
Y. Lam, C. Kan, C. Yuen
Natural fibres, especially cotton, are still the most important kinds of fibres because of their numerous advantages such as high tensile strength, good abrasion resistance, high moisture absorption, quick drying and absence of static problems. However, cotton has poor elasticity and resilience, i.e. poor wrinkle recovery property. It is weakened easily by acids and resin chemicals used in finishing processes. In addition, fabrics made from untreated cotton fibres burn easily with a high flame velocity and are prone to being attacked by mildew and bacteria. Reducing wrinkling, flammability and microbial attacks of cotton fibre have been the major challenge facing the textile industry. The aim of this paper is to provide an overview of the current status of developments in functional finishing of cotton fabrics. Functional finishing agents, especially cross-linking agents, are embedded in cotton fabrics with the aid of acid catalysts, followed by drying and curing at high temperatures. The treated cotton fabrics often suffer from decrease in tensile strength, tear strength, abrasion resistance and sewability with a stiff, harsh and uncomfortable feel. Moreover, chemicals present in finishing agents react in the curing process to form some residues, which may even release free formaldehyde, which is of carcinogenic nature. The amount of formaldehyde remaining in the finished product depends largely on the amount and kind of finishing agents and catalysts used, as well as the curing conditions. Over the last decade, there have been many changes in the textile industry. The importance of environmental issues, which influence the direction of chemical finishing and reshaping the types of speciality chemicals used in textile wet processing, is a dominant theme in the market. Apart from the trend towards the use of environment-friendly chemical finishes, chemicals are being specially formulated for ease of application and high quality finishing. In this paper, the latest developments in textile functional finishing of cotton fabrics are critically reviewed and precisely described. The use of plasma surface treatment is one of the easiest and the most efficient ways to improve post-finishing of cotton fabrics. In general, the active species produced in plasma carry high energy to promote surface functionalisation reactions causing a sputtering or etching effect on cotton fabrics. The altered surface characteristics can still retain inherent advantages of cotton substrates and enhance material properties by incorporating with a large variety of chemically active functional groups. Furthermore, it may be necessary to add a suitable co-reactant to enhance the performance of chemical finishing and minimise the side effects. Recently, some finishing formulations involving catalytic effects induced by co-reactants have been developed. The aim of this paper is to critically and comprehensively examine the existing developments in textiles functional finishing,
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