Pub Date : 2017-04-03DOI: 10.1080/00405167.2017.1305833
A. Periyasamy, M. Viková, Michal Vik
ABSTRACT Photochromism is a light-induced reversible change in colour defined as: ‘A reversible transformation in a chemical species between two forms having different absorption spectra brought about by photo-irradiation.’ This issue of Textile Progress provides a review of photochromism, the different methods for producing photochromic textiles, their properties, the measurement of kinetic colour changes, and their application in photochromic textiles. Photochromism can be utilised in a variety of textile products from everyday clothing to high-technology applications such as protective textiles, medical textiles, geo-textiles and sports textiles. Although photochromic materials have been used since 1960 to cut down the transmission of light through the lenses in sunglasses, there has been limited further development since that time due to technical difficulties not only in the application of photochromic colourants, but also with the measurement of kinetic colour-changing properties. Renewed interest in photochromic textiles has arisen due to improved commercial potential in particular for applications as photochromic nanofibres, in ‘smart’ textiles and in ‘smart’ clothing.
{"title":"A review of photochromism in textiles and its measurement","authors":"A. Periyasamy, M. Viková, Michal Vik","doi":"10.1080/00405167.2017.1305833","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405167.2017.1305833","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACT Photochromism is a light-induced reversible change in colour defined as: ‘A reversible transformation in a chemical species between two forms having different absorption spectra brought about by photo-irradiation.’ This issue of Textile Progress provides a review of photochromism, the different methods for producing photochromic textiles, their properties, the measurement of kinetic colour changes, and their application in photochromic textiles. Photochromism can be utilised in a variety of textile products from everyday clothing to high-technology applications such as protective textiles, medical textiles, geo-textiles and sports textiles. Although photochromic materials have been used since 1960 to cut down the transmission of light through the lenses in sunglasses, there has been limited further development since that time due to technical difficulties not only in the application of photochromic colourants, but also with the measurement of kinetic colour-changing properties. Renewed interest in photochromic textiles has arisen due to improved commercial potential in particular for applications as photochromic nanofibres, in ‘smart’ textiles and in ‘smart’ clothing.","PeriodicalId":45059,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE PROGRESS","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.0,"publicationDate":"2017-04-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00405167.2017.1305833","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42688463","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2017-01-02DOI: 10.1080/00405167.2017.1278875
Syamal Maiti, D. Das, K. Sen
ABSTRACT This issue of Textile Progress reviews research carried out on electrically conducting polymers, fibres and fabrics prepared by in situ chemical, electrochemical and vapour-phase polymerisation. It provides information about various inherently conducting polymers prepared from aniline, pyrrole, thiophene and their derivatives that are often used to prepare flexible non-metallic electro-conductive textiles. Several methods for the characterisation of electro-conductive fabrics are included, namely scanning electron microscopy, X-ray diffraction, elemental disruptive X-ray analysis and Fourier transmission infrared spectroscopy. The role of the polymerisation process in determining the electrical properties of electro-conductive textiles is examined. The review highlights applications of flexible non-metallic conductive textiles in electro-magnetic shielding materials, heating pads, sensors and actuators.
{"title":"Flexible non-metallic electro-conductive textiles","authors":"Syamal Maiti, D. Das, K. Sen","doi":"10.1080/00405167.2017.1278875","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405167.2017.1278875","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACT This issue of Textile Progress reviews research carried out on electrically conducting polymers, fibres and fabrics prepared by in situ chemical, electrochemical and vapour-phase polymerisation. It provides information about various inherently conducting polymers prepared from aniline, pyrrole, thiophene and their derivatives that are often used to prepare flexible non-metallic electro-conductive textiles. Several methods for the characterisation of electro-conductive fabrics are included, namely scanning electron microscopy, X-ray diffraction, elemental disruptive X-ray analysis and Fourier transmission infrared spectroscopy. The role of the polymerisation process in determining the electrical properties of electro-conductive textiles is examined. The review highlights applications of flexible non-metallic conductive textiles in electro-magnetic shielding materials, heating pads, sensors and actuators.","PeriodicalId":45059,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE PROGRESS","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.0,"publicationDate":"2017-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00405167.2017.1278875","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42483330","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2016-10-01DOI: 10.1080/00405167.2016.1233656
M. van der Sluijs, L. Hunter
ABSTRACT Neps not only adversely affect the appearance of cotton yarns and fabric but are also usually associated with lower yarn strength, ends down in spinning and less-uniform yarn. Depending on the type and size of the nep, the appearance of dyed or printed fabrics is negatively influenced by the presence of these blemishes, which appear as white or dark spots on the surface, resulting in downgrading or rejection. Although neps have been identified as a major quality issue in cotton production and processing as far back as the late 1700s, no comprehensive review has been published on the formation, composition, measurement, consequences and ways to reduce the effects of neps, only a limited review has been published in 1999 [1]. Given the adverse effects on quality arising from neps, it was considered important to compile and publish a comprehensive and definitive review of published work and knowledge to date relating to cotton neps for this issue of Textile Progress.
{"title":"A review on the formation, causes, measurement, implications and reduction of neps during cotton processing","authors":"M. van der Sluijs, L. Hunter","doi":"10.1080/00405167.2016.1233656","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405167.2016.1233656","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACT Neps not only adversely affect the appearance of cotton yarns and fabric but are also usually associated with lower yarn strength, ends down in spinning and less-uniform yarn. Depending on the type and size of the nep, the appearance of dyed or printed fabrics is negatively influenced by the presence of these blemishes, which appear as white or dark spots on the surface, resulting in downgrading or rejection. Although neps have been identified as a major quality issue in cotton production and processing as far back as the late 1700s, no comprehensive review has been published on the formation, composition, measurement, consequences and ways to reduce the effects of neps, only a limited review has been published in 1999 [1]. Given the adverse effects on quality arising from neps, it was considered important to compile and publish a comprehensive and definitive review of published work and knowledge to date relating to cotton neps for this issue of Textile Progress.","PeriodicalId":45059,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE PROGRESS","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.0,"publicationDate":"2016-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00405167.2016.1233656","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"58907254","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2016-07-02DOI: 10.1080/00405167.2016.1201934
F. Mokhtari, M. Salehi, Fatemeh Zamani, F. Hajiani, F. Zeighami, M. Latifi
ABSTRACT The use of electrospun nanofibres in applications such as medical products, fuel cells, photocatalysis, filtration, sensors and actuators is reviewed. Yarn production is classified into two types, namely hollow and core-shell structures; the methods used for producing the two structures for different polymers are discussed. Explanations are given for the various arrangements for producing nanofibre yarns and bundles in non-twisted or twisted forms to suit their end use. Natural and synthetic polymer products for biomedical uses and their applications in the form of polymer nanofibres are reviewed and polymeric optical fibres for use in photonic devices and optical circuits are evaluated. The production and development of nanofibrous filtration devices is explored with specific reference to water treatment and the control of air pollution. Particular attention is then given to the evaluation of different electrospinning methods for PVDF (polyvinylidene fluoride), a piezoelectric polymer widely used in sensor applications in terms of their ability to harvest more energy after agitation of the sensor and the effects of different additives on the piezoelectric properties of PVDF. Priorities for further research are then outlined.
{"title":"Advances in electrospinning: The production and application of nanofibres and nanofibrous structures","authors":"F. Mokhtari, M. Salehi, Fatemeh Zamani, F. Hajiani, F. Zeighami, M. Latifi","doi":"10.1080/00405167.2016.1201934","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405167.2016.1201934","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACT The use of electrospun nanofibres in applications such as medical products, fuel cells, photocatalysis, filtration, sensors and actuators is reviewed. Yarn production is classified into two types, namely hollow and core-shell structures; the methods used for producing the two structures for different polymers are discussed. Explanations are given for the various arrangements for producing nanofibre yarns and bundles in non-twisted or twisted forms to suit their end use. Natural and synthetic polymer products for biomedical uses and their applications in the form of polymer nanofibres are reviewed and polymeric optical fibres for use in photonic devices and optical circuits are evaluated. The production and development of nanofibrous filtration devices is explored with specific reference to water treatment and the control of air pollution. Particular attention is then given to the evaluation of different electrospinning methods for PVDF (polyvinylidene fluoride), a piezoelectric polymer widely used in sensor applications in terms of their ability to harvest more energy after agitation of the sensor and the effects of different additives on the piezoelectric properties of PVDF. Priorities for further research are then outlined.","PeriodicalId":45059,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE PROGRESS","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.0,"publicationDate":"2016-07-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00405167.2016.1201934","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"58907245","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2016-04-02DOI: 10.1080/00405167.2016.1179477
M. Venkataraman, R. Mishra, T. Kotresh, J. Militký, H. Jamshaid
ABSTRACT For many garment applications where protection is needed against hostile environments, part of the requirement is for insulation to shield the wearer from extremes of temperature. For an insulating garment to be fully effective, it needs to allow the wearer to move freely so that they can carry out their intended activity efficiently. Traditional materials achieve their insulation by trapping air within the structure thereby not only limiting heat loss by convection but also making good use of the low thermal conductivity of air to cocoon the wearer within a comfortable environment. To achieve effective protection with conventional textiles, it is usually necessary to have a thick fibrous layer, or series of layers, to trap a sufficient quantity of air to provide the required level of insulation. Several disadvantages arise as a result. For example, thick layers of insulating textile materials reduce the ability of the wearer to move in a normal manner so that the conduct of detailed manual tasks can become very difficult; the layers lose their insulating capacity when the trapped air is lost as they are compressed; the insulating capacity falls rapidly as moisture collects within the fibrous insulator – it does not have to become sensibly wet for this to happen; just 15% moisture regain can give a dramatic reduction in insulating capacity. Not surprisingly therefore, there has been continued interest in developing insulators that might be able to overcome the disadvantages of conventional textile materials and improve the mobility of the wearer by allowing the use of only a very thin layer of extremely-high insulating performance to provide the required thermal protection. One class of materials from which suitable candidates might be drawn is aerogels; their attractiveness derives from the fact that they show the highest thermal insulation capacity of any materials developed so far. Despite sporadic high levels of interest, commercialisation has been slow. Aerogels have been found to possess their own set of disadvantages such as fragility; rigidity; dust formation during working and cumbersome, expensive, batch-wise manufacturing processes. They may well have been destined to become a product of minor interest, confined to very specialist applications where cost was of little concern. However, methods have been developed to combine aerogels and fibres in composite structures which maintain extremely high insulating capacity whilst demonstrating sufficient flexibility for use in garments. Ways have been found to prevent the formation of powder as aerogel composite fabrics are worked. Most significant though, is the achievement, arising from a project supported by the Korean Government, of a simplified one-step production process developed with the express aim of providing a substantial reduction in the cost of aerogels. Suitably-priced aerogel is now available and this should provide fresh stimulus for research and development teams to
{"title":"Aerogels for thermal insulation in high-performance textiles","authors":"M. Venkataraman, R. Mishra, T. Kotresh, J. Militký, H. Jamshaid","doi":"10.1080/00405167.2016.1179477","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405167.2016.1179477","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACT For many garment applications where protection is needed against hostile environments, part of the requirement is for insulation to shield the wearer from extremes of temperature. For an insulating garment to be fully effective, it needs to allow the wearer to move freely so that they can carry out their intended activity efficiently. Traditional materials achieve their insulation by trapping air within the structure thereby not only limiting heat loss by convection but also making good use of the low thermal conductivity of air to cocoon the wearer within a comfortable environment. To achieve effective protection with conventional textiles, it is usually necessary to have a thick fibrous layer, or series of layers, to trap a sufficient quantity of air to provide the required level of insulation. Several disadvantages arise as a result. For example, thick layers of insulating textile materials reduce the ability of the wearer to move in a normal manner so that the conduct of detailed manual tasks can become very difficult; the layers lose their insulating capacity when the trapped air is lost as they are compressed; the insulating capacity falls rapidly as moisture collects within the fibrous insulator – it does not have to become sensibly wet for this to happen; just 15% moisture regain can give a dramatic reduction in insulating capacity. Not surprisingly therefore, there has been continued interest in developing insulators that might be able to overcome the disadvantages of conventional textile materials and improve the mobility of the wearer by allowing the use of only a very thin layer of extremely-high insulating performance to provide the required thermal protection. One class of materials from which suitable candidates might be drawn is aerogels; their attractiveness derives from the fact that they show the highest thermal insulation capacity of any materials developed so far. Despite sporadic high levels of interest, commercialisation has been slow. Aerogels have been found to possess their own set of disadvantages such as fragility; rigidity; dust formation during working and cumbersome, expensive, batch-wise manufacturing processes. They may well have been destined to become a product of minor interest, confined to very specialist applications where cost was of little concern. However, methods have been developed to combine aerogels and fibres in composite structures which maintain extremely high insulating capacity whilst demonstrating sufficient flexibility for use in garments. Ways have been found to prevent the formation of powder as aerogel composite fabrics are worked. Most significant though, is the achievement, arising from a project supported by the Korean Government, of a simplified one-step production process developed with the express aim of providing a substantial reduction in the cost of aerogels. Suitably-priced aerogel is now available and this should provide fresh stimulus for research and development teams to","PeriodicalId":45059,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE PROGRESS","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.0,"publicationDate":"2016-04-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00405167.2016.1179477","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"58907208","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2016-01-02DOI: 10.1080/00405167.2015.1126952
W. Wong, J. Lam, C. Kan, Ronald Postle
Increased incidence of skin cancers worldwide has expedited the development and research of ultraviolet (UV)-protective clothing. Clothing acting as a ‘second skin’ for human beings provides a more durable protection against harmful UV radiation than sunscreen creams. The market value of UV-protective clothing is worth considering. This paper will provide important information to textile designers, manufacturers, and consumers about the production and selection of UV-protective knitwear. Although various factors that affect UV protection of fabrics have been studied by researchers, most of them focused on woven fabrics and chemical approaches for improving UV protection. Knitwear in the form of daily wear is an indispensable form of clothing in summer but there has been limited research concerning the UV-protective properties of weft-knitted fabrics to date, in particular the influence of fabric construction on UV protection factor (UPF) and fabric structural properties. This issue of Textile Progress reviews the major factors that affect UV protection by fabrics, including fibre types, yarn characteristics, fabric construction, colouration, chemical additives, wetness (rather than just the moisture absorbed into the fibres), the stretching that may occur in clothing, and the effects of laundering. Methods for evaluating the UV-protective ability of fabrics are also addressed. There is also an attempt to fill a research gap by investigating the influence of different knitted structures on a fabric's UPF, through incorporation of the three major stitch types in weft-knitted fabric constructions, namely the knit, tuck, and miss stitches.
{"title":"Ultraviolet protection of weft-knitted fabrics","authors":"W. Wong, J. Lam, C. Kan, Ronald Postle","doi":"10.1080/00405167.2015.1126952","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405167.2015.1126952","url":null,"abstract":"Increased incidence of skin cancers worldwide has expedited the development and research of ultraviolet (UV)-protective clothing. Clothing acting as a ‘second skin’ for human beings provides a more durable protection against harmful UV radiation than sunscreen creams. The market value of UV-protective clothing is worth considering. This paper will provide important information to textile designers, manufacturers, and consumers about the production and selection of UV-protective knitwear. Although various factors that affect UV protection of fabrics have been studied by researchers, most of them focused on woven fabrics and chemical approaches for improving UV protection. Knitwear in the form of daily wear is an indispensable form of clothing in summer but there has been limited research concerning the UV-protective properties of weft-knitted fabrics to date, in particular the influence of fabric construction on UV protection factor (UPF) and fabric structural properties. This issue of Textile Progress reviews the major factors that affect UV protection by fabrics, including fibre types, yarn characteristics, fabric construction, colouration, chemical additives, wetness (rather than just the moisture absorbed into the fibres), the stretching that may occur in clothing, and the effects of laundering. Methods for evaluating the UV-protective ability of fabrics are also addressed. There is also an attempt to fill a research gap by investigating the influence of different knitted structures on a fabric's UPF, through incorporation of the three major stitch types in weft-knitted fabric constructions, namely the knit, tuck, and miss stitches.","PeriodicalId":45059,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE PROGRESS","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.0,"publicationDate":"2016-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00405167.2015.1126952","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"58907194","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2015-10-02DOI: 10.1080/00405167.2015.1117243
R. Sanad, T. Cassidy
This issue of Textile Progress reviews the origins of fabric objective measurement through its research and development phases to its current use in research and industry. It then examines, in greater detail, the use of fabric objective measurement (FOM) methods for the measurement and prediction of fabric drape. Such prediction has become increasingly important in recent times, due to the push from the fashion industry for accurate three-dimensional (3-D) simulation and animation of apparel in its various forms, to allow fashion designers to visually prototype their garment creations without the need for the tedious and time-consuming steps involved in real-garment prototyping. The demand for accurate 3-D simulation and animation is occurring in the face of an ever-increasing variety of fabric types, which means that drape measurement methods must become more sensitive and more widely applicable than has been the case to date. The authors, in the light of this review and their own research experiences with fabric drape, offer the view that the measurements taken by existing methods of FOM and drape are unlikely to provide the accuracy and wide applicability required for realistic on-screen evaluation of apparel, not least because in a garment, fabric is neither draped nor supported horizontally in the way that the fabric is configured in the test methods.
{"title":"Fabric objective measurement and drape","authors":"R. Sanad, T. Cassidy","doi":"10.1080/00405167.2015.1117243","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405167.2015.1117243","url":null,"abstract":"This issue of Textile Progress reviews the origins of fabric objective measurement through its research and development phases to its current use in research and industry. It then examines, in greater detail, the use of fabric objective measurement (FOM) methods for the measurement and prediction of fabric drape. Such prediction has become increasingly important in recent times, due to the push from the fashion industry for accurate three-dimensional (3-D) simulation and animation of apparel in its various forms, to allow fashion designers to visually prototype their garment creations without the need for the tedious and time-consuming steps involved in real-garment prototyping. The demand for accurate 3-D simulation and animation is occurring in the face of an ever-increasing variety of fabric types, which means that drape measurement methods must become more sensitive and more widely applicable than has been the case to date. The authors, in the light of this review and their own research experiences with fabric drape, offer the view that the measurements taken by existing methods of FOM and drape are unlikely to provide the accuracy and wide applicability required for realistic on-screen evaluation of apparel, not least because in a garment, fabric is neither draped nor supported horizontally in the way that the fabric is configured in the test methods.","PeriodicalId":45059,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE PROGRESS","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.0,"publicationDate":"2015-10-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00405167.2015.1117243","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"58907146","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2015-07-03DOI: 10.1080/00405167.2015.1108543
D. Cottle, B. Baxter
This review explores research and development in wool metrology to date. In doing so, it highlights the research work undertaken by three organisations, in particular, to the development of wool and textile metrology research covering all of the important physical properties of wool. Three key wool research centres at the beginning of the twenty-first century were CSIRO's Division of Textile and Fibre Technology at Belmont near Geelong, Victoria, the School of Fibre Science and Technology, University of NSW at Kensington, NSW in Australia, and the Wool Research Organisation of New Zealand Inc. at Lincoln near Christchurch, New Zealand. Due to funding pressures between 1997 and 2007, these centres either ceased to operate or were absorbed into larger, non-wool-focused organisations. The substantial contribution to the world's wool metrology literature made by their staff and graduates, over the period when the three organisations had around 300–500 staff involved in wool-related research activities, is recognised. The review analyses the research undertaken on wool properties to identify gaps that might be exploited through the application of new or novel use of technologies by the next generation of wool metrologists. The analysis indicates that although the main fibre/fleece characteristics which currently affect the pricing and trading of Merino wool are able to be readily and accurately measured, there remains considerable work to be done in linking wool measurements to the prediction of performance both in processing and in the final product.
{"title":"Wool metrology research and development to date","authors":"D. Cottle, B. Baxter","doi":"10.1080/00405167.2015.1108543","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405167.2015.1108543","url":null,"abstract":"This review explores research and development in wool metrology to date. In doing so, it highlights the research work undertaken by three organisations, in particular, to the development of wool and textile metrology research covering all of the important physical properties of wool. Three key wool research centres at the beginning of the twenty-first century were CSIRO's Division of Textile and Fibre Technology at Belmont near Geelong, Victoria, the School of Fibre Science and Technology, University of NSW at Kensington, NSW in Australia, and the Wool Research Organisation of New Zealand Inc. at Lincoln near Christchurch, New Zealand. Due to funding pressures between 1997 and 2007, these centres either ceased to operate or were absorbed into larger, non-wool-focused organisations. The substantial contribution to the world's wool metrology literature made by their staff and graduates, over the period when the three organisations had around 300–500 staff involved in wool-related research activities, is recognised. The review analyses the research undertaken on wool properties to identify gaps that might be exploited through the application of new or novel use of technologies by the next generation of wool metrologists. The analysis indicates that although the main fibre/fleece characteristics which currently affect the pricing and trading of Merino wool are able to be readily and accurately measured, there remains considerable work to be done in linking wool measurements to the prediction of performance both in processing and in the final product.","PeriodicalId":45059,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE PROGRESS","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.0,"publicationDate":"2015-07-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00405167.2015.1108543","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"58907137","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2015-04-03DOI: 10.1080/00405167.2015.1067077
K. Jagatheesan, Alagirusamy Ramasamy, A. Das, A. Basu
This issue of Textile Progress reviews research and development into electromagnetic shielding materials for blocking a wide range of frequencies. Different shielding materials such as metals, metal-coated materials, polymer-coated materials, conductive filler-reinforced polymers, conductive fabrics and their composites are reviewed in detail, as are hybrid shielding materials prepared by applying a ferrite or polymer coating to conventional shields and using single-layer or multilayer coatings. Research work carried out on hybrid shields is elaborated in this review as is the development of shields with various functionalities; shields possessing high mechanical strength, water repellency and other properties to enhance their robustness have been developed by researchers for outdoor applications and hostile environments. Different testing methods, standards and the limitations of tests used for assessing the shielding effectiveness of materials are discussed. The directions currently being taken in research into electromagnetic shielding and the future scope for textile materials as effective screens for blocking electromagnetic radiation emissions are explained.
{"title":"Fabrics and their composites for electromagnetic shielding applications","authors":"K. Jagatheesan, Alagirusamy Ramasamy, A. Das, A. Basu","doi":"10.1080/00405167.2015.1067077","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405167.2015.1067077","url":null,"abstract":"This issue of Textile Progress reviews research and development into electromagnetic shielding materials for blocking a wide range of frequencies. Different shielding materials such as metals, metal-coated materials, polymer-coated materials, conductive filler-reinforced polymers, conductive fabrics and their composites are reviewed in detail, as are hybrid shielding materials prepared by applying a ferrite or polymer coating to conventional shields and using single-layer or multilayer coatings. Research work carried out on hybrid shields is elaborated in this review as is the development of shields with various functionalities; shields possessing high mechanical strength, water repellency and other properties to enhance their robustness have been developed by researchers for outdoor applications and hostile environments. Different testing methods, standards and the limitations of tests used for assessing the shielding effectiveness of materials are discussed. The directions currently being taken in research into electromagnetic shielding and the future scope for textile materials as effective screens for blocking electromagnetic radiation emissions are explained.","PeriodicalId":45059,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE PROGRESS","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.0,"publicationDate":"2015-04-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00405167.2015.1067077","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"58907584","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2015-01-02DOI: 10.1080/00405167.2015.1023512
S. Gill
Achieving well fitting garments matters to consumers and, therefore, to product development teams, garment manufacturers and fashion retailers when creating clothing that fits and functions both for individuals and for a retailer's target populations. New tools and software for body scanning and product development enhance the ways that sizing and fitting can be addressed; they provide improved methods for classifying and analysing the human body and new ways of garment prototyping through virtual product development. Recent technological developments place a growing demand on product development teams to reconsider their approach to prototyping, sizing and fitting. Significant, related changes are also being made in the fashion retail environment, including innovations in virtual fit to enable consumers to engage with fit online. For best effect in the short term, such advances need to relate well to existing manufacturing practices and to the methods that have, over many years, become embedded by practitioners into the processes involved in clothing product development and those used for establishing garment fit. The high rate of technological advance, however, places an urgent need on practitioners to change; established principles of pattern theory need to be recognised explicitly and followed consistently, otherwise, new techniques for developing and assessing products will not be able to be fully exploited. Practitioners will be pressed to adopt more data-rational approaches to product development, including adopting engineering principles into the practice of clothing product development. For example, comparisons made between the traditional two-dimensional garment pattern and the three-dimensional environment accessible through 3-D body scanning technology, provide both the stimulus and the data required to support a re-examination of how the measurements required for clothing product development should be defined. This should be coupled with a more explicit recognition of ease as a factor requiring quantification within clothing engineering. New methods of categorising the body in terms of its form also allow recognition of the restrictions of proportional theories in pattern construction; they afford promising opportunities for advancing the practices of sizing and fitting in clothing product development.
{"title":"A review of research and innovation in garment sizing, prototyping and fitting","authors":"S. Gill","doi":"10.1080/00405167.2015.1023512","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/00405167.2015.1023512","url":null,"abstract":"Achieving well fitting garments matters to consumers and, therefore, to product development teams, garment manufacturers and fashion retailers when creating clothing that fits and functions both for individuals and for a retailer's target populations. New tools and software for body scanning and product development enhance the ways that sizing and fitting can be addressed; they provide improved methods for classifying and analysing the human body and new ways of garment prototyping through virtual product development. Recent technological developments place a growing demand on product development teams to reconsider their approach to prototyping, sizing and fitting. Significant, related changes are also being made in the fashion retail environment, including innovations in virtual fit to enable consumers to engage with fit online. For best effect in the short term, such advances need to relate well to existing manufacturing practices and to the methods that have, over many years, become embedded by practitioners into the processes involved in clothing product development and those used for establishing garment fit. The high rate of technological advance, however, places an urgent need on practitioners to change; established principles of pattern theory need to be recognised explicitly and followed consistently, otherwise, new techniques for developing and assessing products will not be able to be fully exploited. Practitioners will be pressed to adopt more data-rational approaches to product development, including adopting engineering principles into the practice of clothing product development. For example, comparisons made between the traditional two-dimensional garment pattern and the three-dimensional environment accessible through 3-D body scanning technology, provide both the stimulus and the data required to support a re-examination of how the measurements required for clothing product development should be defined. This should be coupled with a more explicit recognition of ease as a factor requiring quantification within clothing engineering. New methods of categorising the body in terms of its form also allow recognition of the restrictions of proportional theories in pattern construction; they afford promising opportunities for advancing the practices of sizing and fitting in clothing product development.","PeriodicalId":45059,"journal":{"name":"TEXTILE PROGRESS","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":3.0,"publicationDate":"2015-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/00405167.2015.1023512","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"58907574","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
京公网安备 11010802042870号
京ICP备2023020795号-1
扫码关注我们
求助内容：
应助结果提醒方式：