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Upcycling textile wastes: challenges and innovations 纺织废弃物的回收利用:挑战与创新
IF 3 Q2 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2021-04-03 DOI: 10.1080/00405167.2021.1986965
Zunjarrao Kamble, B. Behera
Abstract Food, shelter and clothing are three basic necessities of life. Textiles are necessary for human beings to cover and protect the body from different weather conditions. In the household, textiles are used in carpeting, furnishing, window shades, towels, table covers, bed sheets, handkerchiefs, cleaning devices and in art. In the workplace, they are used in industrial and scientific processes such as tents, flags, nets, kites, sails, parachutes and filtering. Technical textiles are used for industrial purposes – for automotive applications, medical textiles (e.g. implants, personal protective equipment and clothing, wound care and compression), geotextiles (stabilisation; reinforcement of embankments), agrotextiles, protective clothing (e.g. against heat and radiation for fire-retardant clothing, against molten metals for welders, stab protection, and bullet proof vests), packaging and for making advanced materials like composites. In the case of apparel, ‘fast fashion’ has led to increased consumption of textiles and thereby increased textile waste, which poses a great challenge to today’s world in terms of unsustainable disposal. Textile waste has also become a greater threat to modern society mainly because of constant growth in the production and consumption of non-biodegradable synthetic fibres. Unless adequately treated, textile wastes from hospitals may carry hazardous pathogens whilst many fashion clothing items contain non-bio-degradable chemicals which can create havoc in the environment following their disposal, so the recycling of waste textiles has grown in importance. Many studies have shown that much of what would otherwise become waste textiles could be successfully upcycled to produce value-added products. However, the true potential of waste textiles is not yet realized due to many reasons, such as the lack of an adequate textile waste management system, the complexity of the required treatment of some types of textile materials (fibre blends or mixed-fibre textiles) and poor organisation and control over supply chains. This issue of Textile Progress reports on research into the generation of textile waste, its detailed classification, the global textile market, and the environmental impacts of waste textiles. The various challenges in textile waste management and the application of techniques of upcycling waste textiles are critically examined and ways of utilising waste textiles to produce upcycled products are explored.
衣食住行是生活的三件基本必需品。纺织品是人类在各种天气条件下遮盖和保护身体所必需的。在家庭中,纺织品用于地毯、家具、窗帘、毛巾、桌布、床单、手帕、清洁设备和艺术品。在工作场所,它们被用于工业和科学过程,如帐篷、旗帜、渔网、风筝、帆、降落伞和过滤。技术纺织品用于工业用途-用于汽车应用,医用纺织品(例如植入物,个人防护设备和服装,伤口护理和压缩),土工布(稳定;加固堤防)、农用纺织品、防护服(例如防火服防热和辐射、焊工防熔融金属、刺伤防护和防弹背心)、包装和制造复合材料等先进材料。就服装而言,“快时尚”导致了纺织品消费的增加,从而增加了纺织品废物,这对当今世界的不可持续处理提出了巨大挑战。纺织废料也成为对现代社会的更大威胁,主要是因为不可生物降解合成纤维的生产和消费不断增长。除非得到充分处理,否则医院的纺织废料可能携带有害病原体,而许多时尚服装含有不可生物降解的化学物质,在处理后会对环境造成严重破坏,因此回收废旧纺织品变得越来越重要。许多研究表明,许多原本会成为废纺织品的东西可以成功地升级回收,生产出增值产品。然而,由于许多原因,例如缺乏适当的纺织废物管理系统,某些类型的纺织材料(纤维混纺或混合纤维纺织品)所需处理的复杂性以及对供应链的组织和控制不善,废旧纺织品的真正潜力尚未实现。本期《纺织进展》报道了纺织废料的产生、详细分类、全球纺织品市场以及废弃纺织品对环境的影响。在纺织废料管理的各种挑战和应用技术的升级回收废纺织品严格审查和利用废纺织品生产升级回收产品的方法进行了探索。
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引用次数: 5
Acoustic behaviour of textile structures 纺织结构的声学特性
IF 3 Q2 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2021-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/00405167.2021.1986325
P. Paul, R. Mishra, B. Behera
Abstract Recent history has witnessed substantial growth in public concern related to noise pollution due to industrial progress. As much as this situation imposes a burden on textile producers, it also opens a new battlefield against conventional acoustic materials, where textiles can prevail. Conventional acoustic materials are in the line of fire due to their adverse effects on the ecosystem as well as on human health. This situation can offer a business advantage to textile producers, provided that the damage inflicted on the environment throughout the whole life cycle of the textile product is minimised and the functional properties are improved. A lot of research has been done about textiles for controlling noise pollution in the last forty years; there is still a lack of a systematic and holistic approach to those investigations. The challenge lies in attaining desired sound levels while simultaneously maintaining or enhancing the audio environment. A scientific approach to develop textile based acoustic materials/structures is deeply desired. Desirable features of acoustic materials in terms of ecology and economy must be explored, such as recyclability, light weight, and cost effectiveness. Design is a challenging task because varying material types together with acoustic textiles can be used simultaneously in different shapes, thicknesses, sequences, perforation, and groove properties. As the sound absorbers are composed of multiple layers of different materials, accurate modelling of the acoustical behaviour is often difficult. We also need systematic findings in acoustic performance of unidirectional textile structures, woven two-dimensional structures, nonwoven structures and stacked structures. There are unexplored areas in the study of suitable three-dimensional woven structures, whether orthogonal, angle interlock or honeycomb structure, and evaluation of their acoustic performance. The combination and sequence of different textile structures need to be ascertained for achieving the required acoustic performance. The studies on 3D spacer fabrics for acoustic insulation are still in the initial phase and therefore the emphasis in all these studies is primarily to understand the role of the face and back layer’s density, air permeability through the spacer structure and thickness of the spacer fabric.
近年来,由于工业进步,公众对噪音污染的关注大幅增加。这种情况给纺织品生产商带来负担的同时,也打开了一个与传统声学材料竞争的新战场,纺织品可以在这个战场上占上风。传统的声学材料由于其对生态系统和人类健康的不利影响而处于风口浪尖。这种情况可以为纺织品生产商提供商业优势,前提是在纺织品的整个生命周期中对环境造成的破坏降到最低,并改善其功能特性。近四十年来,人们对纺织品噪声污染的控制进行了大量的研究;对这些调查仍然缺乏系统和全面的方法。挑战在于在保持或增强音频环境的同时达到理想的声音水平。我们迫切需要一种科学的方法来开发基于纺织的声学材料/结构。声学材料在生态和经济方面的理想特性必须探索,如可回收性,重量轻,成本效益。设计是一项具有挑战性的任务,因为不同的材料类型以及声学纺织品可以同时以不同的形状、厚度、序列、穿孔和凹槽特性使用。由于吸声器由多层不同的材料组成,因此对其声学特性的精确建模往往是困难的。我们还需要系统地研究单向纺织结构、编织二维结构、非织造结构和堆叠结构的声学性能。正交结构、角互锁结构、蜂窝状结构等合适的三维编织结构及其声学性能评价的研究仍是有待探索的领域。为了达到所需的声学性能,需要确定不同织物结构的组合和顺序。关于三维隔声隔离织物的研究还处于起步阶段,因此这些研究的重点主要是了解隔声隔离织物的面、背层密度、隔声隔离结构透气性和隔声隔离织物厚度的作用。
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引用次数: 6
3D printing technology for textiles and fashion 纺织品和时尚的3D打印技术
IF 3 Q2 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2020-10-01 DOI: 10.1080/00405167.2021.1978223
Tanvir Mahady Dip, Ayesha Siddika Emu, Md Nafiul Hassan Nafiz, Puja Kundu, Hasnatur Rahman Rakhi, Abdullah Sayam, Md Akhtarujjman, Mohammad Shoaib, Md Shakil Ahmed, Swimi Tabassum Ushno, Abdullah Ibn Asheque, Enamul Hasnat, M. A. Uddin, A. Sayem
Abstract 3D printing (3DP) is one of the modern approaches in the field of manufacturing. Although this process has been known for a fair amount of time, only the more-recent developments have revealed its potential for applications in different manufacturing sectors. Textiles, one of the basic human requirements, does more than just fulfilling the fundamental necessity of covering the body. Integrating 3DP technology in textiles has broadened the horizon of the textile world. This review explores the historical background as well as state-of-the-art developments in 3DP related to textiles and fashion. It discusses basic ideas about fundamental textile substrates, various 3DP technologies related to textiles, different printing devices and tools, materials used as print inks, direct printing of 3D objects on various textile substrates, fabrication techniques of 3D printed textile structures, different process parameters and their impacts, tests and standards, benefits and limitations. It also highlights the future for further implementation of 3DP technology in the textile industry. Overall, this issue of Textile Progress attempts to ascertain the potential of 3DP which, despite having some drawbacks, could enrich the outputs of the textile and fashion industry and motivate future designers and scientists to engage in its further exploration.
摘要三维打印(3DP)是制造领域的现代方法之一。尽管这种工艺已经为人所知相当长的一段时间了,但只有最近的发展才揭示出它在不同制造业中的应用潜力。纺织品是人类的基本需求之一,它不仅仅满足了覆盖身体的基本需求。将3DP技术集成到纺织品中,拓宽了纺织界的视野。这篇综述探讨了与纺织品和时尚相关的3DP的历史背景以及最新进展。讨论了基本纺织品基材的基本思想、与纺织品相关的各种3DP技术、不同的打印设备和工具、用作打印墨水的材料、在各种纺织品基材上直接打印3D对象、3D打印纺织品结构的制造技术、不同工艺参数及其影响、测试和标准、优点和局限性。它还强调了3DP技术在纺织行业进一步应用的前景。总的来说,《纺织品进展》杂志试图确定3DP的潜力,尽管3DP有一些缺点,但它可以丰富纺织和时尚行业的产出,并激励未来的设计师和科学家参与其进一步的探索。
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引用次数: 14
Introduction 介绍
IF 3 Q2 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2020-07-24 DOI: 10.1201/9781003072898-2
A. Schwarz, L. Van Langenhove, Philippe Guermonprez, Denis Deguillemont
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引用次数: 0
Heat, moisture and air transport through clothing textiles 热、湿和空气通过服装纺织品输送
IF 3 Q2 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2020-07-02 DOI: 10.1080/00405167.2021.1955524
L. Maduna, A. Patnaik
Abstract The body generates sweat and heat that must be removed from the surface of the skin to the outside environment in order to maintain body temperature. The transfer of sweat, heat and air through the fabric is important for the wearer’s comfort. The fabric transports moisture by absorption or wicking processes. Moisture is absorbed by the fabric and when it evaporates it cools the body. Wicking occurs when moisture is transported in between the pores of the fabrics or by capillary action in yarns. Heat transfer involves conduction, convection and radiation and because air movement by convection facilitates the evaporation of sweat, it can make a substantial contribution to causing the body temperature to decrease. Clothing impairs the transfer of heat and moisture from the skin surface to the external environment. Restricting heat transfer to the external environment helps to keep the wearer warm but excessive accumulation of moisture causes clothing to stick to the skin, while the accumulation of heat causes heat stress making the wearer feel uncomfortable. Moisture, heat and air transmission are affected by fibres, fabrics and finishing properties and hydrophilic fibres absorb more moisture than lipophilic fibres. Rapid transportation of sweat and heat helps the body to cool down and the wearer to feel comfortable but protective clothing tends to have lower moisture, heat and air transmission and as a result the accumulation of moisture and heat makes them uncomfortable to wear. Traditional methods of evaluating the effects of moisture, heat and air transmission by clothing use bench-top tests on flat fabric, however, the more-recent use of manikins enables consideration to be taken of body shape as well as fit of the garments.
人体会产生汗液和热量,为了保持体温,必须将汗液和热量从皮肤表面排出到外界环境。汗液、热量和空气通过织物的传递对穿着者的舒适度很重要。织物通过吸湿或排汗过程来输送水分。水分被织物吸收,当它蒸发时,它会给身体降温。当水分在织物的毛孔之间或通过纱线中的毛细作用被输送时,就会发生排汗。热传递包括传导、对流和辐射,由于对流的空气运动促进了汗液的蒸发,它可以在很大程度上导致体温降低。衣服会阻碍热量和水分从皮肤表面向外界环境的传递。限制热量传递到外部环境有助于保持穿着者的温暖,但过多的水分积累会导致衣服粘在皮肤上,而热量的积累会导致热应激,使穿着者感到不舒服。水分、热量和空气的传递受到纤维、织物和整理性能的影响,亲水纤维比亲脂纤维吸收更多的水分。汗水和热量的快速运输有助于身体降温,穿着者感到舒适,但防护服往往具有较低的水分,热量和空气传递,因此水分和热量的积累使它们穿着不舒服。评估衣服对湿气、热量和空气传递的影响的传统方法是在平织物上进行台架试验,然而,最近使用的人体模型可以考虑到人体形状以及服装的合身性。
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引用次数: 3
Wearable electronic textiles 可穿戴电子纺织品
IF 3 Q2 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2019-10-02 DOI: 10.1080/00405167.2020.1840151
D. Tyler, Jane Wood, T. Sabir, Chloe McDonnell, A. Sayem, N. Whittaker
Abstract Whilst the bulk of products classified as wearable technologies are watch-like bands that are worn on arms and legs, there is growing interest not only in garments that incorporate sensors and actuators, but also in sensors and actuators that are textile-based. The vision is for information-gathering garments where the electronic components are both inconspicuous and comfortable, and where the data gathered is integrated into a broader information-rich infrastructure. Fundamental to realising this goal is the extensive use of smart materials and conductive textiles, which are here reviewed. Advances in textile-based sensors and actuators are documented, as are also developments in the generation and storage of electrical power. Also addressed are the protocols and available information technologies that are relevant for integrating these products within an Internet of Things (IoT) framework. The procedures and practices for developing apparel products incorporating these technologies are discussed. Some insights into the state-of-the-art are gained from examining commercial products and the reports of interdisciplinary research projects. The conclusion is largely that we are at an early stage of realising the IoT vision, but that prototypes emerging justify an attitude of cautious optimism.
摘要虽然被归类为可穿戴技术的大部分产品都是戴在手臂和腿上的类似手表的带子,但人们不仅对包含传感器和致动器的服装越来越感兴趣,而且对基于纺织品的传感器和致动器也越来越感兴趣。该愿景是为信息收集服装设计电子组件既不显眼又舒适的服装,并将收集的数据集成到更广泛的信息丰富的基础设施中。实现这一目标的基础是智能材料和导电纺织品的广泛使用,本文对此进行了综述。记录了基于纺织品的传感器和致动器的进展,以及电力产生和存储的发展。还讨论了与物联网(IoT)框架内集成这些产品相关的协议和可用信息技术。讨论了采用这些技术开发服装产品的程序和实践。通过对商业产品的研究和跨学科研究项目的报告,我们对最先进技术有了一些见解。结论主要是,我们正处于实现物联网愿景的早期阶段,但出现的原型证明了谨慎乐观的态度是合理的。
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引用次数: 9
Application of the Internet of Things in the textile industry 物联网在纺织工业中的应用
IF 3 Q2 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2019-07-03 DOI: 10.1080/00405167.2020.1763701
H. Manglani, George Wayne Hodge, W. Oxenham
The ‘Internet of Things’ (IoT) is at times mythologized and its purpose mistaken, and often people can become confused about what it means, does or aims to achieve; moreover, without a financial ap...
“物联网”(IoT)有时被神话化,其目的也被误解,人们往往会对它的含义、作用或目标感到困惑;此外,如果没有财务安排。。。
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引用次数: 19
Advanced technical textile products 高科技纺织产品
IF 3 Q2 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2019-04-24 DOI: 10.1201/9780429187766-1
Matsuo* Tatsuki
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引用次数: 0
Soft body armour 软防弹衣
IF 3 Q2 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2019-04-03 DOI: 10.1080/00405167.2019.1692583
Unsanhame Mawkhlieng, A. Majumdar
Abstract A detailed and timely progress of soft body armour against stab and ballistic impact is presented in this monograph. The classification and the evolution of body armour is briefly presented, demonstrating the change of material choice with time. The energy absorption capacity of soft body armour and the mechanisms by which this energy is absorbed or dissipated are dependent upon various parameters and a detailed review is highlighted to best understand the material and structural influence. Various stab and ballistic resistance standards against which armour is currently evaluated are presented in detail. Additionally, the different techniques used to evaluate the performance of armour, from a single layer high-performance fabric to a full armour panel assembly are explained in depth, focusing on yarn pull-out, dynamic impact and ballistic test. Further, different approaches adapted to improve the impact or ballistic response of a high-performance fabric used for soft armour panels is reported exhaustively, with special attention drawn to the application of natural rubber, shear thickening fluid (STF) and surface modification of fibre. Among these, the use of STF is given greater importance, minutely exploring the mechanism of shear thickening, the factors affecting shear thickening behaviour and the methods adopted to improve the thickening or viscosity of STFs. Furthermore, emphasis is laid upon the failure mechanisms of a single high-performance fabric to low velocity impact and of an armour panel to high velocity impact, both for neat and STF treated structures. Moreover, the effectiveness or applicability of soft body armour is valid only when certain conditions are met, a list of which is concisely outlined. Finally, with new techniques and approaches being explored at research level, a futuristic and revolutionalised concept of soft body armour is anticipated- the application of nanomaterials, the use of smart textiles and the concept of biomimetics in armour design.
摘要本专论详细而及时地介绍了针对刺伤和弹道冲击的软体装甲的进展。简要介绍了防弹衣的分类和演变,展示了材料选择随时间的变化。柔体甲的能量吸收能力以及吸收或耗散能量的机制取决于各种参数,并强调了详细的审查,以更好地了解材料和结构的影响。详细介绍了目前评估装甲所依据的各种防刺和防弹标准。此外,还深入解释了用于评估装甲性能的不同技术,从单层高性能织物到全装甲板组件,重点是纱线拉出、动态冲击和弹道测试。此外,详尽报道了适用于改善软装甲板用高性能织物的冲击或弹道响应的不同方法,特别关注天然橡胶、剪切增稠液(STF)和纤维表面改性的应用。其中,STF的使用更为重要,详细探讨了剪切增稠的机理、影响剪切增稠行为的因素以及提高STF增稠或粘度的方法。此外,还强调了单一高性能织物在低速冲击下和装甲板在高速冲击下的失效机制,这两种机制都适用于整洁和STF处理的结构。此外,只有在满足某些条件的情况下,柔体甲的有效性或适用性才有效,并简要列出了这些条件的清单。最后,随着新技术和方法在研究层面的探索,人们期待着一个未来的、革命性的软质防弹衣概念——纳米材料的应用、智能纺织品的使用以及仿生在防弹衣设计中的概念。
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引用次数: 24
Colour forecasting 色彩预测
IF 3 Q2 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2019-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/00405167.2019.1659564
T. Cassidy
Abstract The underlying principles of colour forecasting now have a history spanning a full century. This issue of Textile Progress is somewhat timely as the challenges that industry face now differ from those of the twentieth century, in particular, the increased need to address sustainability and the increased competiveness of the global marketplace. This Textile Progress provides an overview of the historical context drawing out the importance of the role of colour forecasting in the fashion and textile industries. It provides a detailed analysis of the more-recently established and establishing trend forecasting methods with a view to thinking more innovatively about the potential of colour forecasting. It investigates the effects and impact of colour and trend forecasting with a particular focus on the consequences of the process and system on business, on consumers and on the environment. In reviewing the developments in colour forecasting, we begin with the subjective techniques highlighting the strengths and weaknesses of the approaches. The more-objective characteristics that have emerged from new developments and new thinking provide a focus on the potential for greater accuracy in colour forecasting. This issue of Textile Progress explains how and why colour forecasting is an essential component of the business of making and selling fashion garments, through merchandising, retailing and fashion marketing, as well as being important in fashion design and product development processes. Developments affecting the design of colour forecasting systems are shown to draw on marketing theory, though without much consideration for the human-business interface, specifically, colour preferences, colour psychology and cultural meanings of colour. The overall aim of this Textile Progress is to assist an understanding of the colour forecasting process and its contribution to the larger trend forecasting system, and to highlight the challenges the colour forecasting sector faces for a twenty-first century fashion-business strategy. Attention is paid to the colour forecasting process and forecasting as a system, including its application in the design process and skills acquisition. The more-recently established trend forecasting methods are critically analysed, as are previously unpublished contributions to knowledge through original sets of primary research data, and finally potential improvements are suggested.
色彩预测的基本原理至今已有整整一个世纪的历史。这一期《纺织进步》在一定程度上是及时的,因为工业现在面临的挑战与20世纪的挑战不同,特别是,解决可持续性和全球市场竞争力增强的需求增加。这一纺织进展提供了历史背景的概述,引出了颜色预测在时尚和纺织工业中的重要性。它提供了最近建立和建立趋势预测方法的详细分析,以期更创新地思考颜色预测的潜力。它调查了色彩和趋势预测的效果和影响,特别关注过程和系统对商业,消费者和环境的影响。在回顾色彩预测的发展,我们开始与主观技术突出的优点和缺点的方法。从新发展和新思维中出现的更客观的特征使人们关注颜色预测的更高准确性。本期《纺织进步》解释了色彩预测如何以及为什么是时装制作和销售业务的重要组成部分,通过商品销售、零售和时装营销,以及在时装设计和产品开发过程中发挥重要作用。研究表明,影响色彩预测系统设计的发展借鉴了市场营销理论,但没有过多考虑人机界面,特别是色彩偏好、色彩心理学和色彩的文化含义。本《纺织品进展》的总体目标是帮助理解颜色预测过程及其对更大趋势预测系统的贡献,并强调颜色预测部门在21世纪时尚商业战略中面临的挑战。关注颜色预测过程和预测作为一个系统,包括其在设计过程中的应用和技能获取。对最近建立的趋势预测方法进行了严格的分析,以及以前未发表的通过原始原始研究数据对知识的贡献,最后提出了潜在的改进建议。
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引用次数: 7
期刊
TEXTILE PROGRESS
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