This article focuses on the circulation of specific European and English fashion magazines and fashion plates in Latin America during the early nineteenth century. Images of fashion and clothing have been present at all stages of the development of visual reproduction techniques. Together, paper and print culture have been linked from the beginning to the notion of speed in the transmission of ideas. The relationship between paper, fashion and the circulation of printed materials was consolidated during the long nineteenth century but began much earlier. Fashion images (fashion plates, but also watercolours and drawings) formed perhaps one of the most important and numerous categories within the visual culture of the period. I highlight the role that some of these representations of fashion on paper have had in the history of the circulation of printed materials in South America, with special attention to Pancho Fierro’s watercolours in Perú, Rudolf Ackermann’s magazines and books in Latin America and César Hipólito Bacle and Adrienne Macaire’s fashion plates in Argentina.
{"title":"Fast Fashion: English and French Fashion Plates in South America during the Early Nineteenth Century","authors":"Marcelo Marino","doi":"10.3366/cost.2023.0264","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2023.0264","url":null,"abstract":"This article focuses on the circulation of specific European and English fashion magazines and fashion plates in Latin America during the early nineteenth century. Images of fashion and clothing have been present at all stages of the development of visual reproduction techniques. Together, paper and print culture have been linked from the beginning to the notion of speed in the transmission of ideas. The relationship between paper, fashion and the circulation of printed materials was consolidated during the long nineteenth century but began much earlier. Fashion images (fashion plates, but also watercolours and drawings) formed perhaps one of the most important and numerous categories within the visual culture of the period. I highlight the role that some of these representations of fashion on paper have had in the history of the circulation of printed materials in South America, with special attention to Pancho Fierro’s watercolours in Perú, Rudolf Ackermann’s magazines and books in Latin America and César Hipólito Bacle and Adrienne Macaire’s fashion plates in Argentina.","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135736278","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Claire Regnault, Dressed: Fashionable Dress in Aotearoa New Zealand 1840 to 1910","authors":"Angela Lassig","doi":"10.3366/cost.2023.0252","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2023.0252","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"73328040","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Danae Tankard, Clothing in 17th-Century Provincial England","authors":"Pat Poppy","doi":"10.3366/cost.2023.0250","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2023.0250","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"85369746","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
This article offers new insights into the way fashion was used to identify and disseminate discourses surrounding patriotism and class during the First World War. Official directives encouraged frugality; thus any extravagance was deemed to be unpatriotic. Wartime narratives targeting the alleged disconnect between women and the reality of war were depicted in satirical cartoons. Upper-class women were depicted wearing expensive, new, ‘ragged’ clothes, whereas lower-class munition workers faced accusations of profligacy exemplified by the wearing of fur coats, previously out of their financial reach. Expensive furs had historically been considered the preserve of the wealthy and royal echelons of society. Therefore, the wearing of such garments, even if made from cheaper pelts, by lower-class female factory workers led to assumptions of their impropriety. Cartoons depicted consumer behaviour in terms of class, which further cemented the trope of the fur-wearing munitionette profiting from the war. The caricatures analysed in this article are contrasted with a consideration of the actual purchases made by working-class women, to add a more nuanced interpretation of the hyperbolic condemnation of munition workers during the First World War.
{"title":"‘A fur coat and a blunted vocabulary are misfits’: Representations of Munitionettes’ Fashion and Class during the First World War","authors":"J. Richardson","doi":"10.3366/cost.2023.0246","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2023.0246","url":null,"abstract":"This article offers new insights into the way fashion was used to identify and disseminate discourses surrounding patriotism and class during the First World War. Official directives encouraged frugality; thus any extravagance was deemed to be unpatriotic. Wartime narratives targeting the alleged disconnect between women and the reality of war were depicted in satirical cartoons. Upper-class women were depicted wearing expensive, new, ‘ragged’ clothes, whereas lower-class munition workers faced accusations of profligacy exemplified by the wearing of fur coats, previously out of their financial reach. Expensive furs had historically been considered the preserve of the wealthy and royal echelons of society. Therefore, the wearing of such garments, even if made from cheaper pelts, by lower-class female factory workers led to assumptions of their impropriety. Cartoons depicted consumer behaviour in terms of class, which further cemented the trope of the fur-wearing munitionette profiting from the war. The caricatures analysed in this article are contrasted with a consideration of the actual purchases made by working-class women, to add a more nuanced interpretation of the hyperbolic condemnation of munition workers during the First World War.","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"83364242","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
From the end of the nineteenth century and one hundred years onward, home sewing was an important part of many women’s duties, but it was also a pleasure, something that existed parallel with the emerging mass-produced ready-to-wear industry. The paper patterns used for home dressmaking were often sold and distributed through women’s magazines. These pattern sections were both a kind of reader service and a conscious strategy to capture the female target group. This article, based on an analysis of three Swedish magazines, is the first in-depth survey of patterns for home sewing of women’s clothes in Sweden. The study shows how the magazines adapted to changes in society with increasingly easier patterns and ready-cut fabric for their readers. By highlighting women making their clothes in the home, this article contributes to an often-neglected area of women’s memory and fashion history.
{"title":"From Paper Patterns to Patterns-on-Fabric: Home Sewing in Sweden, 1881–1981","authors":"Gunilla Törnvall","doi":"10.3366/cost.2023.0245","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2023.0245","url":null,"abstract":"From the end of the nineteenth century and one hundred years onward, home sewing was an important part of many women’s duties, but it was also a pleasure, something that existed parallel with the emerging mass-produced ready-to-wear industry. The paper patterns used for home dressmaking were often sold and distributed through women’s magazines. These pattern sections were both a kind of reader service and a conscious strategy to capture the female target group. This article, based on an analysis of three Swedish magazines, is the first in-depth survey of patterns for home sewing of women’s clothes in Sweden. The study shows how the magazines adapted to changes in society with increasingly easier patterns and ready-cut fabric for their readers. By highlighting women making their clothes in the home, this article contributes to an often-neglected area of women’s memory and fashion history.","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"88437266","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Elizabeth L. Block, Dressing Up: The Women Who Influenced French Fashion","authors":"Alice Mackrell","doi":"10.3366/cost.2023.0254","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2023.0254","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"85181496","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
This article presents evidence about Henrietta Maria's dress from her wardrobe accounts of 1627 to 1639. The accounts, in the National Archives at Kew, include a vast range of loose bills, acquittances and warrants related to textiles, garments, trimmings and accessories supplied and made for the Queen and members of her household. The extraordinary variety and splendour of the Queen's dress as well as the lavish clothing she presented to others is evident. This overview focuses on networks of supply and production, including details of key suppliers and artificers; practical aspects of fitting, mending and delivering clothing; gift-giving; and garment types. Tables of suppliers, artificers and garment types are provided.
这篇文章从1627年到1639年的亨丽埃塔·玛丽亚的衣橱记录中展示了她的衣服的证据。这些账目保存在英国邱园国家档案馆(National Archives in Kew)，其中包括为女王及其家人提供和制作的大量纺织品、服装、装饰品和配饰的松散账单、免责声明和认证书。女王的服装种类繁多，光彩夺目，她赠送给其他人的奢华服装也是显而易见的。本概述侧重于供应和生产网络，包括关键供应商和技工的细节;试穿、缝补和递送衣服的实际操作;送礼;还有服装类型。提供了供应商、工匠和服装类型的表。
{"title":"Re-Dressing the Evidence: Henrietta Maria’s Wardrobe Accounts, 1627–1639","authors":"E. Griffey","doi":"10.3366/cost.2023.0243","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2023.0243","url":null,"abstract":"This article presents evidence about Henrietta Maria's dress from her wardrobe accounts of 1627 to 1639. The accounts, in the National Archives at Kew, include a vast range of loose bills, acquittances and warrants related to textiles, garments, trimmings and accessories supplied and made for the Queen and members of her household. The extraordinary variety and splendour of the Queen's dress as well as the lavish clothing she presented to others is evident. This overview focuses on networks of supply and production, including details of key suppliers and artificers; practical aspects of fitting, mending and delivering clothing; gift-giving; and garment types. Tables of suppliers, artificers and garment types are provided.","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"86667402","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Alan and Vanessa Hopkins, Headwear: Hats, Bonnets and Caps from the Hopkins Collection c. 1700–1955","authors":"A. Mackenzie","doi":"10.3366/cost.2023.0251","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2023.0251","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"90362265","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Front matter","authors":"","doi":"10.3366/cost.2023.0241","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2023.0241","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135074621","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
The eighteenth-century actress Mrs Frances Abington left a legacy of images of herself, both as a woman of fashion and as a popular comedienne. At the height of her career in the mid-century, English society was experiencing accelerating changes in communication, both through printed media and imagery. Abington made full use of the popularity of the new public exhibitions and the growing market for printed images to actively promote herself to her supporters. This article places her in the context of mid-eighteenth-century London theatre and examines how she used imagery in the creation of a public persona.
{"title":"Mrs Frances Abington: An Eighteenth-Century Actress and Her Use of Imagery for Self-Promotion","authors":"Joanna Jarvis","doi":"10.3366/cost.2023.0244","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2023.0244","url":null,"abstract":"The eighteenth-century actress Mrs Frances Abington left a legacy of images of herself, both as a woman of fashion and as a popular comedienne. At the height of her career in the mid-century, English society was experiencing accelerating changes in communication, both through printed media and imagery. Abington made full use of the popularity of the new public exhibitions and the growing market for printed images to actively promote herself to her supporters. This article places her in the context of mid-eighteenth-century London theatre and examines how she used imagery in the creation of a public persona.","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"72642691","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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