This article details eighteenth-century English dressmaking through an in-depth, object-oriented exploration of garment construction practices and techniques from a maker's perspective. Building upon prior scholarship of women's work and aspects of pre-industrial English garment trades, this article employs primary and secondary source materials in conjunction with extensive object-based research of extant garments. The research findings outline exactly how pre-industrial English dressmakers’ skills were nuanced, sophisticated and adaptive to making and remaking, as well as the personal, haptic connections they cultivated with their work.
{"title":"‘No Small Share of Ingenuity’: An Object-Oriented Analysis of Eighteenth-Century English Dressmaking","authors":"Carolyn Dowdell","doi":"10.3366/cost.2021.0199","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2021.0199","url":null,"abstract":"This article details eighteenth-century English dressmaking through an in-depth, object-oriented exploration of garment construction practices and techniques from a maker's perspective. Building upon prior scholarship of women's work and aspects of pre-industrial English garment trades, this article employs primary and secondary source materials in conjunction with extensive object-based research of extant garments. The research findings outline exactly how pre-industrial English dressmakers’ skills were nuanced, sophisticated and adaptive to making and remaking, as well as the personal, haptic connections they cultivated with their work.","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":"51 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2021-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"86563032","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Kate Stephenson, A Cultural History of School Uniform","authors":"Milly Westbrook","doi":"10.3366/cost.2021.0206","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2021.0206","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":"134 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2021-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"77923478","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Malcolm Smith, Hats: A Very Unnatural History","authors":"E. Ehrman","doi":"10.3366/cost.2021.0204","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2021.0204","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":"2 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2021-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"88538879","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Paris Fashion and World War Two: Global Diffusion and Nazi Control, ed. by Lou Taylor and Marie McLoughlin","authors":"Jonathan Faiers","doi":"10.3366/cost.2021.0209","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2021.0209","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":"32 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2021-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"73134596","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Jonathan Faiers, Fur: A Sensitive History","authors":"Cheryl Roberts","doi":"10.3366/cost.2021.0203","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2021.0203","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":"105 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2021-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"77103232","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
While the issues of displaying fashion in motion in museum exhibitions have been addressed with various interventions to animate displays, the challenge of successfully presenting transformative fashion in exhibitions has received less attention. With more contemporary designers creating conceptual fashion that is transformative and technological in nature, this article discusses a research project that proposes a series of digital interventions to best display these garments. With the use of digital technology in fashion exhibitions becoming commonplace, this article aims to explore this application and the ways in which it can be used to greater effect to enhance the performance of transformation in the presentation of fashion. The use of digital technology to improve and advance opportunities for inclusivity and accessibility in reading fashion in exhibitions will also be demonstrated.
{"title":"Exhibiting Transformative Fashion: Digital Interventions to Enhance Display and Interpretation","authors":"Pearline Yeo","doi":"10.3366/COST.2021.0184","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/COST.2021.0184","url":null,"abstract":"While the issues of displaying fashion in motion in museum exhibitions have been addressed with various interventions to animate displays, the challenge of successfully presenting transformative fashion in exhibitions has received less attention. With more contemporary designers creating conceptual fashion that is transformative and technological in nature, this article discusses a research project that proposes a series of digital interventions to best display these garments. With the use of digital technology in fashion exhibitions becoming commonplace, this article aims to explore this application and the ways in which it can be used to greater effect to enhance the performance of transformation in the presentation of fashion. The use of digital technology to improve and advance opportunities for inclusivity and accessibility in reading fashion in exhibitions will also be demonstrated.","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":"8 1","pages":"97-120"},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2021-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"74671603","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Fashion and Postcolonial Critique, ed. by Elke Gaugele and Monica Titton","authors":"C. Nicklas","doi":"10.3366/COST.2021.0191","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/COST.2021.0191","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":"113 1","pages":"146-147"},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2021-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"78980080","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Francesca Whitlum-Cooper, Boilly: Scenes of Parisian Life","authors":"Alice Mackrell","doi":"10.3366/COST.2021.0188","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/COST.2021.0188","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":"48 1","pages":"142-143"},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2021-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"90402206","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Patricia Mears, Laura Jacobs, Jane Pritchard, Rosemary Harden and Joel Lobenthal, Ballerina: Fashion's Modern Muse","authors":"Caroline V. Hamilton","doi":"10.3366/COST.2021.0190","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/COST.2021.0190","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":"75 1","pages":"144-146"},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2021-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"77532752","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
This article follows a study of a collection of baby clothes assumed to be of late seventeenth-century date to ascertain whether or not that assumption might be correct. The collection is unusual in containing caps, rare in themselves but also decorated with lace frills in the adult frelange style; a rare pair of sleeves with paned oversleeves; and christening and other items for wear by a swaddled infant which are more common in known collections but here, more unusually, trimmed with Flemish bobbin lace. The article discusses the items in terms of their relationships with each other, their construction, their fabrics and how they were worn. Comparisons with similar and related articles in other collections and in seventeenth-century portraits of adults and children enable the author to conclude that the articles probably do date from the late seventeenth century but from slightly different decades.
{"title":"Seventeenth-Century Baby Clothes? The Problems of Identification","authors":"Heather Toomer","doi":"10.3366/COST.2021.0181","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/COST.2021.0181","url":null,"abstract":"This article follows a study of a collection of baby clothes assumed to be of late seventeenth-century date to ascertain whether or not that assumption might be correct. The collection is unusual in containing caps, rare in themselves but also decorated with lace frills in the adult frelange style; a rare pair of sleeves with paned oversleeves; and christening and other items for wear by a swaddled infant which are more common in known collections but here, more unusually, trimmed with Flemish bobbin lace. The article discusses the items in terms of their relationships with each other, their construction, their fabrics and how they were worn. Comparisons with similar and related articles in other collections and in seventeenth-century portraits of adults and children enable the author to conclude that the articles probably do date from the late seventeenth century but from slightly different decades.","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":"136 1","pages":"24-48"},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2021-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"78185601","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
京公网安备 11010802042870号
京ICP备2023020795号-1
扫码关注我们
求助内容：
应助结果提醒方式：