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Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society最新文献

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Ingrid E. Mida, Reading Fashion in Art 英格丽德·e·米达,《阅读艺术中的时尚》
IF 0.2 4区 社会学 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2022-09-01 DOI: 10.3366/cost.2022.0236
C. Nicklas
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引用次数: 0
Anne Green, Gloves: An Intimate History 安妮·格林,《手套:亲密的历史》
IF 0.2 4区 社会学 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2022-09-01 DOI: 10.3366/cost.2022.0234
Rebecca Unsworth
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引用次数: 0
An Inspiring Object: A Wedding Uchikake Kimono from the Collection of the National Museum in Kraków and its Multiple Representations 一个鼓舞人心的对象:Kraków国立博物馆收藏的婚礼和服及其多重表现
IF 0.2 4区 社会学 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2022-09-01 DOI: 10.3366/cost.2022.0230
Małgorzata Możdżyńska-Nawotka
The article is concerned with a Japanese wedding uchikake kimono, c. 1800–1850, acquired by distinguished Polish collector Feliks ‘Manggha’ Jasieński in 1900, the nuanced issues surrounding its multiple representations in Polish painting and photography during the period 1900–1908, and the multifarious meanings with which the garment was imbued. The uchikake’s original features exerted a seminal formal influence upon its representations. The interpretive process was also informed by perceptions concerning the woman’s status in society and marriage in Japan and in the West, Western and Japanese artistic traditions, as well as current Japonisme in art and fashion. In each of its representations, the uchikake also conveyed personal meanings important to the artist/wearer.
本文关注的是1900年由波兰著名收藏家Feliks ' Manggha ' Jasieński购得的一件约1800-1850年的日本婚礼和服,以及1900 - 1908年期间围绕其在波兰绘画和摄影中的多种表现形式的微妙问题,以及该服装所蕴含的多种含义。uchiake的原始特征对其表现形式产生了重大的影响。对日本和西方妇女在社会和婚姻中的地位、西方和日本的艺术传统以及目前艺术和时尚中的日本主义的看法也为解释过程提供了信息。在它的每一种表现中,御饼也传达了对艺术家/佩戴者重要的个人意义。
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引用次数: 0
Obituary: Anne Thomas 讣告:安妮·托马斯
IF 0.2 4区 社会学 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2022-09-01 DOI: 10.3366/cost.2022.0238
V. Cumming
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引用次数: 0
Conventional to Comfortable or Respectable to Practical: The Evolution of Women’s Golf Clothing in Britain, 1890–1935 从传统到舒适,从体面到实用:1890-1935年英国女子高尔夫服装的演变
IF 0.2 4区 社会学 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2022-09-01 DOI: 10.3366/cost.2022.0231
Fiona Skillen, Lauren Beatty
The emergence of sports-specific clothing during the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries has been explored by academics, yet with only a few exceptions which focus on sports such as swimming, riding and tennis, little has been written about the development of sportswear for women in Britain in this period. 1 Similarly, there has been little in the way of consideration given to the growth and development of women’s golf during this time. Yet, both are areas of considerable change and worthy of detailed study. In this article we will trace the developments of golf clothing for women from the early days of the formalized game in the late nineteenth century until the end of the inter-war period. In doing so we seek to highlight that golf fashions, like those in other sporting arenas, mirrored the changing expectations of female players whilst also reflecting the societal expectations of women of the period. We will discuss the everyday clothing worn by the pioneers of the game and the modifications they made to their garments in order allow them to play effectively. We will also explore the growth of specialist sports clothing developed specifically for golf and the ways in which these sports clothes were marketed and ultimately became fashionable modes of attire beyond the golf course by the end of the inter-war period.
19世纪末和20世纪初,学者们对运动专用服装的出现进行了探索,但除了游泳、骑马和网球等少数运动项目外,关于这一时期英国女性运动服发展的文章很少。同样,在这段时间里,很少有人考虑到女子高尔夫球的成长和发展。然而,这两个领域都发生了相当大的变化,值得详细研究。在这篇文章中,我们将追溯女性高尔夫服装的发展,从19世纪末正式比赛的早期到两次世界大战期间结束。在这样做的过程中,我们试图强调高尔夫时尚,就像其他体育领域一样,反映了女性球员不断变化的期望,同时也反映了当时社会对女性的期望。我们将讨论游戏先驱的日常服装,以及他们对服装的修改,以使他们能够有效地发挥作用。我们还将探讨专门为高尔夫开发的专业运动服装的发展,以及这些运动服装的营销方式,并最终在两次世界大战结束时成为高尔夫球场以外的时尚服装模式。
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引用次数: 2
Just Like the King's Road, Only Nearer: Scotland's Boutique Bonanza, 1965–1970 就像国王路,只是更近:苏格兰的精品富矿,1965-1970
IF 0.2 4区 社会学 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2022-03-01 DOI: 10.3366/cost.2022.0220
J. Halbert
The fashion entrepreneurs of so-called ‘Swinging London’ — John Stephen on Carnaby Street or Mary Quant on the King's Road, for example — fundamentally changed British fashion in the 1960s: from old to young, dull to vibrant and, crucially, from shop to boutique. But while the impact of ‘Swinging London’ is well recorded in the historiography of English fashion and retail, less is known about its effects further afield. This article considers the impact of ‘Swinging London’ boutique culture in Scotland between 1965 and 1970. Taking the example of the Glasgow fashion design and manufacturing business Marion Donaldson as its main case study, it draws on a variety of oral history, archival and media evidence to trace the dissemination of boutique fashion culture in Scotland across multiple retail contexts. From the urban centres of Glasgow and Edinburgh to the towns and regions beyond, it offers new analyses of the opportunities boutique retailing afforded Marion Donaldson and the Scottish fashion industry more generally, and thus provides new insight into the impact of the so-called ‘boutique boom’ of the 1960s on Scottish fashion and enterprise culture.
所谓“摇摆伦敦”(Swinging London)的时尚企业家——比如卡纳比街(Carnaby Street)的约翰•斯蒂芬(John Stephen)或国王路上(King’s Road)的玛丽•匡特(Mary Quant)——从根本上改变了20世纪60年代的英国时尚:从古老到年轻,从沉闷到充满活力,最重要的是,从商店到精品店。但是,尽管“摇摆伦敦”的影响在英国时尚和零售业的史学中得到了很好的记录,但人们对它的影响却知之甚少。本文考察了1965年至1970年间“摇摆伦敦”精品文化对苏格兰的影响。以格拉斯哥时装设计和制造企业Marion Donaldson为主要案例研究,利用各种口述历史、档案和媒体证据,追踪苏格兰精品时尚文化在多种零售环境中的传播。从格拉斯哥和爱丁堡的城市中心到城镇和其他地区,它提供了精品零售为马里昂·唐纳森和苏格兰时尚产业提供的机会的新分析,从而为20世纪60年代所谓的“精品热潮”对苏格兰时尚和企业文化的影响提供了新的见解。
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引用次数: 0
The Colour of Fashion at the Salon du Goût Français: A Virtual Exhibition of French Luxury Commodities, 1921–1923 沙龙的时尚色彩:法国奢侈品的虚拟展览,1921-1923
IF 0.2 4区 社会学 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2022-03-01 DOI: 10.3366/cost.2022.0218
Cally Blackman
This article investigates the use of the Autochrome, an important photographic process invented by the Lumière brothers that produced the most accurate representation of colour between 1907 and the early 1930s, in a government-backed exhibition of French luxury commodities, the Salon du Goût Français. Between 1921 and 1923 the exhibition showed in Paris and undertook two international tours, first to North America and then to Australasia, China, Vietnam, Japan and India. Thousands of objects were displayed, from automobiles to umbrellas, including couture, ready to wear, lingerie, menswear, children's wear and accessories. By reducing the objects to two dimensions on the glass Autochrome plates, the exhibition could be shown in a relatively small venue in Paris, transported to America in a trunk and voyage on a decommissioned battle cruiser to the Far East. Using the trope of Western fashion as a form of soft power mediated by the global reach afforded by the Autochromes, the article proposes that the Salon du Goût Français offered a kind of roving virtual art gallery, a vividly colourful encyclopaedic display of over 2,000 images of luxury manufacturing deployed to restore France's imperial and cultural hegemony as supreme arbiter of taste after the trauma of the First World War.
本文调查了在1907年至20世纪30年代初,由lumi兄弟发明的一种重要的摄影工艺,在政府支持的法国奢侈品展览沙龙(Salon du go t franais)上,Autochrome的使用情况,该工艺产生了最准确的色彩表现。1921年至1923年间,该展览在巴黎展出,并进行了两次国际巡回演出,首先是北美,然后是大洋洲,中国,越南,日本和印度。从汽车到雨伞,展出了数千件物品,包括高级定制服装、成衣、内衣、男装、童装和配饰。通过在Autochrome玻璃板上将展品缩小为二维,展览可以在巴黎一个相对较小的场地展出,然后用一艘退役的巡洋舰的后备箱和航程运到美国,前往远东。文章将西方时尚作为软实力的一种形式,以Autochromes提供的全球影响力为媒介,提出沙龙du go franais提供了一种流动的虚拟艺术画廊,一个生动多彩的百科全书式展示,展示了2000多幅奢侈品制造的图像,旨在恢复法国在第一次世界大战创伤后作为品味最高仲裁者的帝国和文化霸权。
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引用次数: 1
(Un)constructed, Reconstructed and Deconstructed Again. An Examination of the Context, Reconstruction and Display Possibilities of Five Lace Panels for Use on a Gown, c. 1900–1910, at the MoMu Fashion Museum in Antwerp (Un)建构、重建、再解构。安特卫普MoMu时装博物馆,约1900-1910年,一件礼服上的五幅蕾丝面板的背景、重建和展示可能性的研究
IF 0.2 4区 社会学 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2022-03-01 DOI: 10.3366/cost.2022.0217
Dries Debackere
This article studies five shaped panels of Duchesse de Bruxelles lace, part of the collection of the MoMu Fashion Museum in Antwerp. These handmade panels were created c. 1900 but never fashioned into a gown and, consequently, never worn. The first part of this article uses an object-based approach to examine how the panels might have looked if they had been constructed into a gown, what type of gown this would have been, to what occasions it would have been worn and by whom. In 2021, the renovated MoMu reopened with, in addition to its space for temporary exhibitions, a permanent display showing highlights from the museum collection. This unconstructed gown being a highlight of its historical lace collection, the museum is currently considering how to best exhibit it. The second part of this article therefore examines different display possibilities, ranging from a full reconstruction, to a deconstructed display, to the possibility of replication — all the while keeping in mind the ethics of conservation-restoration and display, and what it means to exhibit fashion.
本文研究了比利时安特卫普MoMu时尚博物馆收藏的五件Duchesse de Bruxelles蕾丝造型面板。这些手工制作的镶板是在1900年左右制作的,但从来没有做成长袍,因此也从来没有穿过。本文的第一部分使用基于对象的方法来检查面板如果被制成长袍可能会是什么样子,这将是什么类型的长袍,在什么场合会被穿着以及由谁穿着。2021年,经过翻修的MoMu重新开放,除了临时展览空间外,还有一个永久性的展览空间,展示了博物馆藏品的精华。这件未制作的礼服是其历史蕾丝收藏的亮点,博物馆目前正在考虑如何最好地展示它。因此,本文的第二部分考察了不同的展示可能性,从完整的重建,到解构的展示,再到复制的可能性——所有这些都要牢记保护修复和展示的伦理,以及展示时尚的意义。
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引用次数: 0
Front matter 前页
IF 0.2 4区 社会学 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2022-03-01 DOI: 10.3366/cost.2022.0214
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引用次数: 0
Dandy Style: 250 Years of British Men's Fashion, ed. by Shaun Cole and Miles Lambert 《花花公子风格:英国男性时尚250年》,肖恩·科尔和迈尔斯·兰伯特主编
IF 0.2 4区 社会学 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Pub Date : 2022-03-01 DOI: 10.3366/cost.2022.0222
D. Sprecher
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引用次数: 1
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Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society
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