This research takes an interdisciplinary approach, investigating dress through the lens of regional social history by exploring women's emotional experiences related to making and consuming ordinary clothing in the period 1939–1979. A case study encouraged Yorkshire-based participants to reveal diverse stories associated with ordinary clothing. This brought the technical knowledge of making clothes and material-based research methodologies into dialogue with regional social history and helped us understand how ordinary people shaped the way women dressed. The research was funded by a grant from Leeds Museums and Galleries and University of Leeds Cultural Institute. It aimed to build a relationship between the users of the dress and textiles collection at Leeds Museums and Galleries and the Yorkshire Fashion Archive, housed at University of Leeds, which is a regionally focused collection of (mainly) twentieth-century garments and accessories. The collaboration allowed the museum curators and academics to discover how ordinary clothes can be used to engage the community with dress collections to discover and document untold stories of material culture in practice.
{"title":"A Regional Study of Women's Emotional Attachments to the Consumption and Making of Ordinary Clothing, Drawing on Archives in Leeds, West Yorkshire, 1939–1979","authors":"K. Almond, Elaine Rose Evans","doi":"10.3366/cost.2022.0219","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2022.0219","url":null,"abstract":"This research takes an interdisciplinary approach, investigating dress through the lens of regional social history by exploring women's emotional experiences related to making and consuming ordinary clothing in the period 1939–1979. A case study encouraged Yorkshire-based participants to reveal diverse stories associated with ordinary clothing. This brought the technical knowledge of making clothes and material-based research methodologies into dialogue with regional social history and helped us understand how ordinary people shaped the way women dressed. The research was funded by a grant from Leeds Museums and Galleries and University of Leeds Cultural Institute. It aimed to build a relationship between the users of the dress and textiles collection at Leeds Museums and Galleries and the Yorkshire Fashion Archive, housed at University of Leeds, which is a regionally focused collection of (mainly) twentieth-century garments and accessories. The collaboration allowed the museum curators and academics to discover how ordinary clothes can be used to engage the community with dress collections to discover and document untold stories of material culture in practice.","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":"66 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2022-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"77933455","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
This article looks at visual representations and discussions of the linen duster coat in the American fashion press between the years 1870 and 1915. Originally worn as a travel garment on trains and steamships, the linen duster was eventually adopted and redefined as a motoring accessory in the early twentieth century. The literature illustrates noticeable shifts in the duster's perceived fashionability over the years, illuminating broader questions of gender, class and mobility during a period of rapid social and technological change. This research was inspired by two linen dusters — one produced in the 1870s, and the other between 1900 and 1912 — from the Historic New England Textile Collection in Haverhill, Massachusetts. These garments are examined in relation to their visual and narrative representations in contemporary magazines and newspapers.
{"title":"Fashion on the Road (1870–1915): The Linen Duster Paradox","authors":"M. Couturier","doi":"10.3366/cost.2022.0216","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2022.0216","url":null,"abstract":"This article looks at visual representations and discussions of the linen duster coat in the American fashion press between the years 1870 and 1915. Originally worn as a travel garment on trains and steamships, the linen duster was eventually adopted and redefined as a motoring accessory in the early twentieth century. The literature illustrates noticeable shifts in the duster's perceived fashionability over the years, illuminating broader questions of gender, class and mobility during a period of rapid social and technological change. This research was inspired by two linen dusters — one produced in the 1870s, and the other between 1900 and 1912 — from the Historic New England Textile Collection in Haverhill, Massachusetts. These garments are examined in relation to their visual and narrative representations in contemporary magazines and newspapers.","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":"21 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2022-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"73429307","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Rachel Worth, Fashion and Class","authors":"Cheryl Roberts","doi":"10.3366/cost.2022.0223","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2022.0223","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":"23 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2022-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"76788668","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Rethinking Fashion Globalization, ed. by Sarah Cheang, Erica de Greef and Takagi Yoko","authors":"C. Nicklas","doi":"10.3366/cost.2022.0224","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2022.0224","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":"64 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2022-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"83084137","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Paris, Capital of Fashion, ed. by Valerie Steele","authors":"Alice Mackrell","doi":"10.3366/cost.2021.0207","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2021.0207","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":"19 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2021-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"80589635","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
This article examines the historical and material context of a rare sailor's jacket, c. 1804, probably produced in England and worn by a Japanese castaway named Tajuro (among the first Japanese men to circumnavigate the globe) during a Russian expedition to Japan. We place Tajuro's jacket in the longer history of garments worn by sailors and labourers. Because it is the only surviving example definitively used at sea by an identified seaman on a particular voyage, from the long eighteenth century, Tajuro's jacket provides a glimpse into what European, Russian, and American sailors wore in this era. It is an invaluable addition to the scanty material archive of common sailors’ clothing with a story that shows the global possibilities of early modern travel.
{"title":"Tajuro's Jacket: A Story of Japanese Castaways, Russian Ambassadors and a Remarkable Early Nineteenth-Century Sailor's Jacket","authors":"Tyler Rudd Putman, Matthew Brenckle","doi":"10.3366/cost.2021.0201","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2021.0201","url":null,"abstract":"This article examines the historical and material context of a rare sailor's jacket, c. 1804, probably produced in England and worn by a Japanese castaway named Tajuro (among the first Japanese men to circumnavigate the globe) during a Russian expedition to Japan. We place Tajuro's jacket in the longer history of garments worn by sailors and labourers. Because it is the only surviving example definitively used at sea by an identified seaman on a particular voyage, from the long eighteenth century, Tajuro's jacket provides a glimpse into what European, Russian, and American sailors wore in this era. It is an invaluable addition to the scanty material archive of common sailors’ clothing with a story that shows the global possibilities of early modern travel.","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":"28 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2021-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"90153357","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"David Long, The Hats that Made Britain: A History of the Nation through its Headwear","authors":"Joseph M. Lance","doi":"10.3366/cost.2021.0205","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2021.0205","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":"11 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2021-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"90786938","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
This article discusses the wearing of bifurcated equestrian garments for women in early modern Europe. Considering visual representations as well as documentary sources, the first section examines the fashion for red riding breeches between the late sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. Worn for their comfort and functionality in the saddle, these garments were also invested with powerful symbolic and affective meaning. The second section provides new insights about female equestrian outfits in late seventeenth-century France. Through the close reading of two written accounts, the author sheds light on the use of breeches as undergarments in the saddle and discusses the appearance of a hybrid riding uniform that incorporated knee-length culottes. By presenting horsewomen who wore bifurcated garments in the pursuit of leisure rather than transgression, this study revises historical narratives that cast the breeched woman exclusively as a symbol of gender upheaval.
{"title":"Breeched and Unbridled: Bifurcated Equestrian Garments for Women in Early Modern Europe","authors":"Valerio Zanetti","doi":"10.3366/cost.2021.0198","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2021.0198","url":null,"abstract":"This article discusses the wearing of bifurcated equestrian garments for women in early modern Europe. Considering visual representations as well as documentary sources, the first section examines the fashion for red riding breeches between the late sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. Worn for their comfort and functionality in the saddle, these garments were also invested with powerful symbolic and affective meaning. The second section provides new insights about female equestrian outfits in late seventeenth-century France. Through the close reading of two written accounts, the author sheds light on the use of breeches as undergarments in the saddle and discusses the appearance of a hybrid riding uniform that incorporated knee-length culottes. By presenting horsewomen who wore bifurcated garments in the pursuit of leisure rather than transgression, this study revises historical narratives that cast the breeched woman exclusively as a symbol of gender upheaval.","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":"9 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2021-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"81181159","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Wendy Hitchmough, The Bloomsbury Look","authors":"L. Taylor","doi":"10.3366/cost.2021.0208","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2021.0208","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":"291 2 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2021-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"73167463","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Byron was a best-selling poet and a celebrity with a notorious reputation. This article seeks to examine how his public image and private person were related, the part clothing played in the projection of his public image, and the degree of control he exerted over his body and his self-image. The article examines a number of sources relating to Lord Byron — his journals and letters, his poetry and public output, biographies, bills and accounts, paintings and illustrations, and the surviving clothing associated with the poet. From these a clothing narrative of the poet's early life, up until the time of his departure for Europe in 1816, can be constructed and examined in relation to the fashions of his era and the idiosyncrasies of the poet. Some of the surviving clothes are examined for their cut and construction and discussed in relation to others of the period. A companion article, dealing with his life abroad until the time of his death in 1824, will follow at a later date.
{"title":"The Clothing of a Regency Poet, Lord Byron (1788–1824)","authors":"David Wilcox","doi":"10.3366/cost.2021.0200","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2021.0200","url":null,"abstract":"Byron was a best-selling poet and a celebrity with a notorious reputation. This article seeks to examine how his public image and private person were related, the part clothing played in the projection of his public image, and the degree of control he exerted over his body and his self-image. The article examines a number of sources relating to Lord Byron — his journals and letters, his poetry and public output, biographies, bills and accounts, paintings and illustrations, and the surviving clothing associated with the poet. From these a clothing narrative of the poet's early life, up until the time of his departure for Europe in 1816, can be constructed and examined in relation to the fashions of his era and the idiosyncrasies of the poet. Some of the surviving clothes are examined for their cut and construction and discussed in relation to others of the period. A companion article, dealing with his life abroad until the time of his death in 1824, will follow at a later date.","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":"48 1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2021-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"82790256","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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