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Patterns of co-evolution: analyzing fashion brand and sewing contractor company dynamics 共同演变的模式:分析时装品牌和缝纫承包商公司的动态
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2024-02-26 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-024-00378-8
Ki Yong Kwon

The purpose of this study is to identify the entry conditions that could form a co-evolutionary relationship between a sewing contractor company and a fashion brand, and reveal the outcome of such a relationship. In the Republic of Korea, many fashion brands and sewing companies coexist, and the situation in the fashion industry changes with the rapid development of the country, so it is a suitable environment for investigating their co-evolution strategies. A qualitative research methodology was used to examine the co-evolution process of the fashion brand and the sewing industry. In addition, an objective evaluation was conducted by using interviews with sewing contractor companies and fashion brands that have business relationships with the sewing contractor companies. The results indicated that sewing contractor companies evolve into either mass production or small production systems. In the co-evolutionary process, relational resources and business-to-business transaction suitability are the main entry conditions for sewing contractor companies to coevolve with fashion brands. Knowledge exchange, experience optimization, off-season ordering, and investment in trading companies were observed among sewing contractor companies that formed a co-evolutionary relationship with their fashion brand partners. This study identified and conceptualized factors that played a major role in the process of co-evolution and proved suitable for each production system of sewing contractor companies.

本研究的目的是确定缝纫承包公司与时装品牌之间可能形成共同发展关系的进入条件,并揭示这种关系的结果。在大韩民国,许多时装品牌和缝纫公司并存,时装业的形势随着国家的快速发展而变化,因此是研究它们共同发展战略的合适环境。研究采用了定性研究方法来考察时装品牌和缝纫业的共同发展过程。此外,还通过采访缝纫承包公司和与缝纫承包公司有业务关系的时装品牌进行了客观评价。结果表明,缝纫承包公司要么演变为大规模生产系统,要么演变为小规模生产系统。在共同演化过程中,关系资源和企业间交易的适宜性是缝纫承包企业与时装品牌共同演化的主要进入条件。在与时装品牌合作伙伴形成共同进化关系的缝纫承包公司中,可以观察到知识交流、经验优化、淡季订货和对贸易公司的投资。这项研究确定了在共同进化过程中发挥重要作用的因素,并将其概念化,证明这些因素适用于缝纫承包公司的各种生产系统。
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引用次数: 0
Assembled or unassembled? Different types of outfit coordination presentations in online fashion retailing 组装还是不组装?在线时尚零售中不同类型的服装搭配展示
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2024-02-23 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-024-00371-1
Ying Qu, Eunsoo Baek

In the realm of retailing, various methods of product presentation exert a significant influence on consumers' perceptions and behaviors. In the context of fashion retailing, one crucial aspect of presentation revolves around outfit coordination (OC), which can be displayed in either an assembled or unassembled manner. Assembled OC entails displaying fashion items collectively on a body, while unassembled OC involves presenting them individually on a flat background. Drawing from the literature on the Elaboration Likelihood Model of attention, this research explores the impact of assembled versus unassembled OC on consumers' imagery elaboration, attention, and product evaluations, employing three online experiments. In the first study (N = 126), we demonstrate that assembled OC, in contrast to unassembled OC, fosters greater imagery elaboration and elicits more positive product evaluations. Building upon these findings, the second study (N = 214) employs a serial mediation analysis to unveil the underlying mechanism involving shifted attention. The third study (N = 182) explores the moderating effect of fashion involvement, revealing that for consumers with a high level of fashion involvement, unassembled OC, rather than assembled OC, leads to higher levels of imagery elaboration and more favorable product evaluations. This research not only enriches the literature on online retailing and visual communication, but also provides actionable insights for industry practitioners on effectively presenting fashion products to online shoppers.

在零售领域,各种产品展示方法对消费者的感知和行为有着重要影响。就时装零售而言,展示的一个重要方面是服装搭配(OC),它可以以组合或非组合的方式展示。组合式 OC 是指将时尚单品集中展示在一个主体上,而非组合式 OC 则是指将单品单独展示在一个平面背景上。本研究借鉴了有关注意力的阐释可能性模型的文献,通过三个在线实验,探讨了组装式与非组装式 OC 对消费者的意象阐释、注意力和产品评价的影响。在第一项研究(N = 126)中,我们证明了组装好的 OC 与未组装的 OC 相比,能促进更多的意象阐述,并引起更积极的产品评价。在这些研究结果的基础上,第二项研究(N = 214)采用了序列中介分析法,以揭示涉及注意力转移的内在机制。第三项研究(N = 182)探讨了时尚参与的调节作用,发现对于时尚参与程度高的消费者来说,未组装的 OC 比组装的 OC 能带来更高水平的意象阐述和更积极的产品评价。这项研究不仅丰富了有关网络零售和视觉传达的文献,而且为行业从业者向网络购物者有效展示时尚产品提供了可操作的见解。
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引用次数: 0
Ultraviolet resistance on weft knitted fabric coated by benzotriazoles 苯并三唑涂层纬编织物的抗紫外线性能
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2024-02-16 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-024-00376-w
Tuan Anh Nguyen, Nhu Tram Nguyen Nu

Ultraviolet resistance upon four different types of weft knitted fabrics including Lacoste, Single Jersey, Rib and Interlock were experimentally measured and evaluated by ultraviolet–visible spectroscopy under effects of gauge, specific weight, fiber composition and finishing agent as benzotriazole derivatives. The results showed that ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) of Interlock sample reached the highest value at 42.7. Simultaneously, the higher gauge of Single Jersey knitted fabrics was, the better its ultraviolet protection exhibited. Also, insertion of polyester fibers or spandex fibers into cotton knitted fabrics with a certain ratio strongly increased UPF values. Notably, all UPFs of coated fabrics with a given content of benzotriazole were significantly improved and almost coated samples could undergo several washing cycles and still retain their inherent breathability. This work demonstrated that cotton knitted fabrics coated with benzotriazoles were excellently enhanced ultraviolet protection. Especially, the UPF values on Interlock or Rib specimens as well as Single Jersey samples blended with polyester/spandex fibers were found to be higher than 15.

在针距、比重、纤维成分和整理剂(苯并三唑衍生物)的影响下,通过紫外可见光谱对四种不同类型的纬编针织物(包括 Lacoste、单面针织物、罗纹针织物和联锁针织物)的抗紫外线性能进行了实验测量和评估。结果表明,Interlock 样品的紫外线防护系数(UPF)最高,达到 42.7。同时,单面针织物的规格越高,其紫外线防护性能越好。此外,在棉针织物中加入一定比例的聚酯纤维或氨纶纤维,也能显著提高 UPF 值。值得注意的是,含有一定含量苯并三唑的涂层织物的所有 UPF 值都有显著提高,几乎所有涂层样品都能在多次洗涤后仍保持其固有的透气性。这项研究表明,涂有苯并三唑的棉针织物具有出色的防紫外线性能。尤其是联锁或罗纹试样以及与聚酯/氨纶纤维混纺的单面针织物试样的 UPF 值均高于 15。
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引用次数: 0
Southeast Asian consumer acceptance of 3D virtual fitting technologies in cross-border online shopping 东南亚消费者在跨境网购中对 3D 虚拟试衣技术的接受程度
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2024-02-06 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-024-00372-0
Heesoon Yang, Yunjeong Kim

The purpose of this study is to investigate Thai, Vietnamese and Indonesian consumers’ responses to cross-border online shopping for Korean fashion products using 3D virtual fitting technology. In order to examine the factors affecting a consumer’s attitude toward virtual fitting technology and the purchase intention of Korean fashion products, technology acceptance model, which represents cross-border site characteristics, and technology readiness, which represents a consumer's belief in technology, were used in combination with technology readiness and acceptance model. An online survey was conducted with male and female consumers in their 20 s and 30 s residing in Vietnam, Indonesia, and Thailand. A structural equation model analysis was performed using smart PLS to verify the research model. Among the dimensions of technological readiness, optimism and innovativeness had a positive effect on consumers' perceptions of the cross-border site, and discomfort had a negative effect. Perceived usefulness, enjoyment, and perceived fit had a significant effect on the attitude toward virtual fitting technology, and the effect of enjoyment was the greatest. This study highlighted the role of each dimension of technology readiness by verifying consumer acceptance of virtual fitting technology in cross-border online transactions. It also emphasized the role of perceived enjoyment in technology acceptance.

本研究旨在调查泰国、越南和印度尼西亚消费者对使用三维虚拟试衣技术跨境网购韩国时尚产品的反应。为了研究影响消费者对虚拟试衣技术的态度和韩国时尚产品购买意向的因素,本研究使用了代表跨境网站特征的技术接受模型和代表消费者对技术的信念的技术准备度,并结合技术准备度和接受模型进行了研究。对居住在越南、印度尼西亚和泰国的 20-30 岁男女消费者进行了在线调查。为验证研究模型,使用智能 PLS 进行了结构方程模型分析。在技术准备度维度中,乐观度和创新度对消费者对跨境网站的感知有正向影响,而不适感则有负向影响。感知有用性、愉悦感和感知契合度对虚拟试衣技术的态度有显著影响,其中愉悦感的影响最大。本研究通过验证消费者在跨境在线交易中对虚拟试衣技术的接受程度,强调了技术准备各维度的作用。研究还强调了感知到的乐趣在技术接受中的作用。
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引用次数: 0
Persona/scenario (P/S) toolkit enhancing inclusive fashion design education 加强包容性时装设计教育的角色/情景(P/S)工具包
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2024-02-01 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-024-00373-z
Jee Hyun Lee, Eunjee Lee, Jiwon Huh, Minji Lena Kim, Jieun Kim

This study aimed to address the diversity issue in fashion design education by developing two prototypes for Inclusive Fashion Design (IFD) education. The prototypes were constructed based on the 3C3R model of Project-Based Learning (PBL) and incorporated the Persona/Scenario (P/S) toolkit for IFD. Additionally, the study examined the effectiveness of the FEA (Function, Expressive, and Aesthetics) self-checklist and the P/S toolkit in the IFD process. The experiments involved two design instructors, two teaching assistants, and 12 senior-level students divided into four teams. Thematic analysis was conducted on the interview data collected from the participants. The results revealed that FEA factors were highly considered in both education prototypes, regardless of the presence of the P/S toolkit. Maintaining consistency of the IFD concept throughout each stage of the process was found to be crucial, and the use of the P/S toolkit played a significant role in achieving this consistency. Team communication emerged as an essential factor in IFD education, as team collaboration using the P/S toolkit triggered diverse perspectives on targets, facilitated design expansion, and extended individual competences. Overall, this study contributes to the understanding of the diversity issue in fashion design education and promotes the adoption of the IFD education methodology, emphasizing the significance of consistent concept development, effective toolkits, and team collaboration in achieving inclusive design practices.

本研究旨在通过开发两个包容性时装设计(IFD)教育原型,解决时装设计教育中的多样性问题。这些原型的构建基于项目式学习(PBL)的 3C3R 模型,并纳入了 IFD 的角色/情景(P/S)工具包。此外,研究还考察了 FEA(功能、表现和美学)自我检查表和 P/S 工具包在综合框架设计过程中的有效性。实验涉及两名设计导师、两名助教和 12 名高年级学生,分成四个小组。对收集到的参与者访谈数据进行了主题分析。结果显示,无论是否使用 P/S 工具包,两个教育原型都高度考虑了有限元分析因素。在整个过程的每个阶段,保持综合框架设计概念的一致性至关重要,而 P/S 工具包的使用在实现这种一致性方面发挥了重要作用。团队交流是综合框架设计教育中的一个重要因素,因为使用 P/S 工具包的团队合作引发了对目标的不同看法,促进了设计扩展,并扩展了个人能力。总之,这项研究有助于人们理解时装设计教育中的多样性问题,并促进采用 IFD 教育方法,强调一致的概念开发、有效的工具包和团队协作在实现包容性设计实践中的重要意义。
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引用次数: 0
Unsupervised generation of fashion editorials using deep generative model 利用深度生成模型无监督生成时尚社论
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2024-01-29 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-023-00367-3
Minjoo Kang, Jongsun Kim, Sungmin Kim

This research intended to establish a new fashion-related artificial intelligence research topic concerning fashion editorials which could induce streams of further studies. A new fashion editorial dataset, which is a prerequisite in training an AI model, has been established in this study to meet the research purpose. A total of over 150K fashion editorials were initially collected and processed to satisfy necessary dataset conditions. A novel dataset of fashion editorials consisting of approximately 60K editorials is proposed through the process. In order to prove the adequacy of the new dataset, data distribution was analyzed and a generative model was selected and trained to attest that new fashion editorials can be created with the proposed editorial dataset. The results generated by the trained model were qualitatively investigated. The model has shown to have learned various features that compose editorials with the dataset, successfully generating fashion editorials. Quantitative evaluation with FID scores was conducted to support the selection of the generative model used for the qualitative assessment.

本研究旨在建立一个新的与时尚相关的人工智能研究课题,该课题涉及时尚社论,可引发进一步的研究。为了达到研究目的,本研究建立了一个新的时尚社论数据集,这是训练人工智能模型的先决条件。为了满足必要的数据集条件,我们初步收集并处理了超过 15 万篇时尚社论。在此过程中,我们提出了一个由大约 60K 篇社论组成的新型时尚社论数据集。为了证明新数据集的适当性,对数据分布进行了分析,并选择和训练了一个生成模型,以证明新的时尚社论可以通过建议的社论数据集创建。对训练模型生成的结果进行了定性研究。结果表明,该模型学会了利用数据集组成社论的各种特征,成功生成了时尚社论。利用 FID 分数进行了定量评估,以支持用于定性评估的生成模型的选择。
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引用次数: 0
Children’s cloth face mask sizing and digital fit analysis: method development 儿童布制口罩尺寸和数字匹配分析:方法开发
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2024-01-25 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-023-00366-4
Mona Maher, Jenny Leigh Du Puis, Katarina Goodge, Margaret Frey, Heeju Terry Park, Fatma Baytar

There is a necessity to use digital data and tools when developing children’s products. The present study was designed to provide digital methods to guide product development and problem-solving when using 3D body scans and face mask simulations for 6-year-olds. First, key facial measurements were evaluated to better understand the variables that might affect face mask sizing for children for the selected age group. Then the findings were used to optimize the size and fit of a cloth face mask design. Next, the fit of the digital, optimized face mask design was tested on 44 head scans from Size North America by using subjective and objective fit assessment techniques. Study findings suggested that width and length-related measurements are critical for children’s face masks. Body mass index (BMI) and ethnicity were also found to be the main factors for identifying size ranges in the selected age group. As BMIs increase, face mask sizes should increase. Additionally, the results indicated a need to use a larger database of children of all ethnicities to design an inclusive facemask that would provide a comfortable and protective fit for different facial proportions. Although the results cannot be generalized due to the case study approach of the present research and its focus on methods development, they can provide manufacturers, designers, and researchers with guidelines on how to develop proper sizing and use digital data to conduct functional fit analysis for facemasks.

在开发儿童产品时,有必要使用数字化数据和工具。本研究旨在提供数字化方法,指导 6 岁儿童使用三维人体扫描和面罩模拟进行产品开发和解决问题。首先,对关键的面部测量进行评估,以更好地了解可能影响所选年龄组儿童面罩尺寸的变量。然后,利用评估结果优化布质口罩的尺寸和贴合度。接下来,通过使用主观和客观的佩戴评估技术,在 44 个来自北美地区的头部扫描样本上测试了数字优化口罩设计的佩戴效果。研究结果表明,与宽度和长度相关的测量值对儿童口罩至关重要。研究还发现,身体质量指数(BMI)和种族也是确定所选年龄组尺寸范围的主要因素。随着体重指数的增加,口罩的尺寸也应增加。此外,研究结果表明,有必要使用更大的各族裔儿童数据库来设计包容性面罩,为不同面部比例的儿童提供舒适的保护性佩戴。尽管由于本研究采用的是个案研究方法,且侧重于方法开发,因此研究结果不能一概而论,但它们可以为制造商、设计者和研究人员提供指导,帮助他们了解如何制定正确的尺寸,以及如何使用数字数据对面罩进行功能贴合度分析。
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引用次数: 0
Development of a fabric classification system using drapability and tactile characteristics 利用悬垂性和触感特征开发织物分类系统
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2024-01-22 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-023-00368-2
Somin Lee, Yoojung Han, Changsang Yun

When producing clothing using virtual fitting technology or purchasing textile and clothing products online, it is challenging to make judgments or communicate information about sensory characteristics, such as drapability and tactile sensations, as there are no clear objective indicators for these factors. Therefore, the study aims to develop a classification system for the sensory properties of fabrics using drapability and tactile characteristics as quantitative indicators. The developed system was verified through subjective evaluations by an expert group, and it was found to be meaningful in reflecting classification levels in practice. The drapability and tactile sensation (softness; TS7) of the fabric were classified using fuzzy c-means cluster analysis, and the results were confirmed through a subjective evaluation by experts. The classification system was then used to predict the classification group, constituted by drapability and tactile characteristics, from mechanical properties using an artificial neural network. The network was trained on 534 fabric samples for drapability and tactile sensation (softness), and it correctly predicted 202 samples out of 243 validation data, with a forecasting accuracy of 83.5%. The developed classification system enables predictions and judgments about subjective characteristics like fabric drapability and tactile sensation based on the mechanical property values of various samples.

在使用虚拟试衣技术生产服装或在网上购买纺织品和服装产品时,由于悬垂性和触感等感官特性没有明确的客观指标,因此很难对这些特性做出判断或传递相关信息。因此,本研究旨在以悬垂性和触感特性为量化指标,开发一套织物感官特性分类系统。专家组通过主观评价对所开发的系统进行了验证,发现该系统在反映实践中的分类等级方面很有意义。织物的悬垂性和触感(柔软度;TS7)采用模糊 c-means 聚类分析进行分类,并通过专家的主观评价对结果进行确认。然后,利用人工神经网络将分类系统用于预测由悬垂性和触感特性构成的机械特性分类组。该网络在 534 个织物样本上进行了悬垂性和触感(柔软度)的训练,在 243 个验证数据中正确预测了 202 个样本,预测准确率为 83.5%。所开发的分类系统可根据各种样品的机械性能值对织物的悬垂性和触感等主观特性进行预测和判断。
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引用次数: 0
Facile fabrication and characterization of MXene/cellulose composites for electrical properties, electric heating performance 轻松制备并表征 MXene/纤维素复合材料的电性能和电热性能
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2024-01-02 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-023-00356-6
Chan Sol Kang, Jong Kyu Kim, Chae-Seok Lee, HoJong Chang, Yeong Heon Cho, Cheera Prasad, Hyeong Yeol Choi

Developing energy-efficient and multifunctional wearable electronic textiles (E-textiles) is a significant challenge. This study investigates MXene-coated cellulose hybrid fibers, focusing on their electrical properties, heating performance, and thermal stability. The fabrication process involves continuous dipping of cellulose fibers into an aqueous MXene solution, resulting in the creation of MXene-coated cellulose hybrid fibers. We confirm the uniform coating of MXene sheets on the cellulose fiber surfaces, with increasing content throughout the dip coating cycle, as evidenced by X-ray diffraction and scanning electron microscopy analysis. The high thermal conductivity of MXene acts as a heat source, impacting the thermal stability of cellulose fibers at lower temperatures. Additionally, the electrical properties of MXene/cellulose hybrid fiber composites are influenced at elevated temperatures. Remarkably, the longitudinal electrical conductivity of the MXene-coated cellulose fiber composites exhibits a notable increase of 0.06 S/cm after the final coating cycle, demonstrating the effective and conductive nature of the layer-by-layer MXene network formed on the cellulose fibers.

开发高能效、多功能的可穿戴电子纺织品(E-textiles)是一项重大挑战。本研究对 MXene 涂层纤维素混合纤维进行了研究,重点关注其电气性能、加热性能和热稳定性。制造过程包括将纤维素纤维连续浸入 MXene 水溶液中,从而制造出 MXene 涂层纤维素混合纤维。通过 X 射线衍射和扫描电子显微镜分析,我们证实纤维素纤维表面均匀涂覆了 MXene 片材,并且在整个浸涂周期中含量不断增加。MXene 的高导热性可作为热源,影响纤维素纤维在较低温度下的热稳定性。此外,MXene/纤维素混合纤维复合材料的电气性能在高温下也会受到影响。值得注意的是,MXene 涂层纤维素纤维复合材料的纵向电导率在最后一个涂层周期后显著增加了 0.06 S/cm,这表明在纤维素纤维上形成的逐层 MXene 网络具有有效的导电性。
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引用次数: 0
Quantitative analysis of 3D seam shape according to easing conditions for efficient sewing using muslin 使用薄纱根据缓和条件定量分析三维缝形,以提高缝纫效率
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2023-12-06 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-023-00364-6
Hyojeong Lee, Sunhee Park, Yejin Lee

This study quantitatively analyzes the data of 3D seam shapes that alter according to easing conditions. By numerically approaching easing, which is only taught using traditional methods, this study suggests a method of analyzing the changes in 3D surface area, volume, and seam shape. The 3D data of the completed samples were obtained through a 3D scanner, the solid shapes were analyzed using reverse engineering, and a new program was developed. The shape, area, and volume of the data were analyzed, and the deformation rate was measured using the radius of curvature. Linear seam lines were bent because of the mechanical pushing inflicted by the garment with easing. The area increased dramatically as the ease amount increased when the seam lines were short, whereas it was relatively unaffected when seam lines were long. The radii of curvature for curved seam lines show that, for all samples, the waveform is high at the center where the seam is. The peak value did not increase for curved seams when the ease amount increased. The sum of the areas increased with a larger radius of curvature for the curved seams. It is a crucial reference for easing in garments regarding quantitative changes in seam shapes and volumes according to easing type and amount.

本研究定量分析了随放宽条件变化的三维接缝形状数据。通过对传统方法中仅有的缓和进行数值化处理,本研究提出了一种分析三维表面积、体积和接缝形状变化的方法。通过三维扫描仪获得了已完成样品的三维数据,利用逆向工程分析了实体形状,并开发了一个新程序。对数据的形状、面积和体积进行了分析,并利用曲率半径测量了变形率。线性接缝线弯曲的原因是服装在放宽时产生的机械推力。缝线短时,随着缓和量的增加,面积急剧增大,而缝线长时,面积相对不受影响。弧形接缝线的曲率半径显示,对于所有样本,接缝中心的波形都很高。弧形接缝的峰值并没有随着疏松度的增加而增加。曲线接缝的曲率半径越大,面积总和越大。根据缓和类型和缓和量对接缝形状和体积的定量变化提供了重要的服装缓和参考。
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引用次数: 0
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