Fashion and Textiles最新文献

This study analyzed fabric drapability in one, two, and three dimensions to provide an assessment method reflecting real conditions. One-dimensional analysis of drapability involved observing the fabric movement by reciprocating motion. The movement appeared differently depending on the fabric characteristics, and the shape and location of the node showed differently, which were considered to be influenced by the weight of the sample along with the drape coefficient. Two-dimensional analysis identified the significant factors for the drape information. This examination confirmed that, even if drape factors were similar, differences in draped shape were observed based on the factors related to node shapes. Three-dimensional analysis, using a 3D scanner, involved the use of the mean distances between draped samples and the standard truncated cone, their standard deviation, and the coefficient of variation. The coefficient of variation was high in the groups wherein the shape of the drape was irregular. In the 3D analysis, the distances between samples and the standard truncated cone were expressed in colors to intuitively deliver the drape information. To determine a factor that could indicate drapability among the factors derived from each dimension, the existing drape coefficient was employed for correlation analysis. Three pairs of samples with similar drape coefficients but different drape shapes were selected to verify the above results. In conclusion, one-dimensional node location, two-dimensional standard deviation of node severity, and three-dimensional coefficient of variation were shown to effectively demonstrate the drape characteristic that the drape coefficient could not indicate.

This study aimed to develop a human-touch smart armband that can transport emotional tactile stimuli to individuals in distant places. To simulate human touch stimuli, a soft pneumatic actuator (SPA) which we refer to in this study as “SPA touch,” of size 7 cm × 7 cm and thickness 0.3 cm was designed using fabric and silicone with nine touch points, which can be individually inflated and allocated within the actuator. The use of thermoplastic polyurethane-coated fabric as a backing material helps obtain one-side inflation toward the skin effectively. By controlling the position and duration time of the inflation of the nine touch points, three basic touch modes (“Touch,” “Double touch,” and “Drag”) and three emotional tactile gestures (“Patting,” “Hugging,” and “Caressing”) were programmed using Python. The evaluation of the operating performance of the basic touch modes and emotional tactile gestures showed that “SPA touch” could properly create and transmit touch stimulation remotely. The human-touch smart armband developed in the process of this study can be used for novel tele-haptic communication with individuals in distant places, such as nursing homes.

This study fabricated and evaluated the textile-type electrodes for application to smartwear that can measure surface electromyography(sEMG). It was manufactured by lock stitch(LS) and moss stitch(MS), and the stitch distance was prepared as 1, 2, or 3 mm. The surface and compression property was measured by using the Kawabata evaluation system, and the sheet resistance and skin-electrode impedance were analyzed. The coefficient of friction(MIU) of the MS was larger than that of the LS. On the other hand, the geometrical roughness(SMD) showed a smaller value. When the same load was applied, the compressive range of the MS was larger than the LS. When it was manufactured as a leg sleeve and worn, the conductive path could be increased as the loops made of conductive yarn become flat as the loops adhere to the skin by the pressure of clothing. Accordingly, the skin-electrode impedance decreased by increasing the area in contact with the skin. As the results of the RMS(root-mean-square), the LS was higher than the MS in a stable. Nevertheless, the SNR(signal-to-noise ratio) value was lower than that of the MS because movement generated noise during operation. Therefore, more stable signal acquisition is possible when applying MS. It is expected that could be applied to producing smartwear for sEMG measurements with superior sEMG signal acquisition performance while having a softer touch and flexibility.

A recent development in the fashion industry, where digital transformation has accelerated, has been the birth and rise of virtual fashion influencers. With their close imitation of the human body and how active they are on social media, their influence on the fashion industry is gradually growing. The purpose of this study is to explore the trends in the activities of virtual fashion influencers and to determine the main issues in their body representation by identifying the types and current status of their reproduced bodies. One hundred and fifteen virtual fashion influencers who are active in the global fashion industry were selected as the research subjects and observed with a focus on their body reproduction. Our qualitative analysis is based on Rosi Braidotti’s theory on posthumans’ existence and body of subjectivity formation discourse. Based on the above theories, these reproduced bodies can suggest the following issues related to the risks of modern society: (1) the reproduction of standardized stereotypes, (2) the expression of the male gaze, power, and desire, and (3) colonial gender hierarchy.

In medieval Korea, armors made of various materials were developed. Among these, the leather armors were lighter and cheaper than the iron armors and were easy to make. For these reasons, there was a movement toward replacing two-thirds of suits of iron armor with leather armor made of pig or cow skin. As a follow-up to a previous study in which the basic physical properties of a leather scale specimen were investigated, in this study, we focused on the protective performance of this material through a comparison with materials such as steel and polycarbonate. In particular, the superiority of the leather was verified through a quantitative comparison with a modern carbon fiber composite. As part of this study, armor that copied the shape of traditional myeonpigap was produced. Carbon fiber composite panels were used to coat this armor in order to satisfy the requirements for the armor to be light, wearable, and provide effective anti-stab protection at the same time.

Wedge-heeled shoes, which are formed by elevating both the forefoot and heel, have been popular among young women. However, research on the foot shape in wedge-heeled shoes is lacking. This study aimed to access the effects of forefoot height (10, 20, and 30 mm) and heel height (30, 50, 70, and 90 mm) on foot shape and perceived comfort when wearing wedge-heeled shoes. Three-dimensional (3D) foot scanning was performed on 35 females and the 14 foot dimensions were measured. Increased forefoot height generated larger lengths (foot, ball and out ball), smaller girths (ball and instep) and heights (instep and navicular) (p < 0.05). Thus, when the forefoot height increased, the foot became longer, slimmer and flatter. Moreover, elevated heel height resulted in larger dimensions for girths (ball and instep), heights (instep and navicular), and smaller dimensions for lengths (foot, ball and out ball), widths (diagonal and horizontal) and toe 5 angles of the foot (p < 0.01). That means shorter, narrower and more convex foot shapes were observed when heel height increased. Subjective measurements implied that increased forefoot height significantly enhanced perceived comfort, whereas increased heel height diminished comfort. It was found that forefoot elevation could result in less deformation and discomfort which accompanied heel elevation, especially in the low heel-toe drop combinations (10 × 30 and 20 × 30 mm). The findings provide valuable references for enhancing shoe fitting and comfort for wedge-heeled shoes by providing dimensional data on the toe, ball, arch and instep regions.

In this research, to confirm the applicability as the actuator of the re-entrant (RE) structure strip using 3D printing with shape memory thermoplastic polyurethane material, two types of 3D printing infill conditions and five extension temperature conditions were applied. REstrip was analyzed through differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), tensile properties, Poisson’s ratio properties, and shape recovery properties according to temperature conditions. The DSC results showed that the glass transition temperature peaks of the SMTPU filament and the 3D printed REstrip were in the range of about 30–60 °C. In terms of tensile properties, the initial modulus, maximum stress, and yield stress of REstrip all decreased, while the elongation at break increased with increasing extension temperature. In terms of Poisson’s ratio, it was confirmed that as the extension temperature rises, Poisson’s ratio shows a positive value at a lower elongation, and the deformation is best at 50 °C. As a result of the shape memory property, the shape recovery ratio tended to decrease as the tensile deformation temperature increased.

During the Joseon Dynasty, light and convenient leather armors were developed to replace metal armors, which were heavy and difficult to manufacture. Leather armors allowed easy movement of the troops and, because arrows were the primary weapons at the time, provided them with protection. The excellent performance of leather armors can be attributed to their materials and manufacturing method. The scales of the leather armor relics are prepared by layering animal skins, attaching them with natural glue, and then coating their outer surface with lacquer. The lacquer extracted from the lacquer (Ott) tree is an excellent material with high strength, waterproofing and antiseptic properties, insect repellency, heat resistance, as well as chemical resistance. The superior performance of the leather scale was reported in old scripts; however, it has not been proven through scientific analysis and testing. Therefore, in this study, the physical and mechanical properties, impact resistance, and anti-stab performance of leather scales manufactured following the traditional method were investigated. The results confirmed the excellent protection, impact resistance, and mechanical properties of the leather specimens glued with fish glue and coated with lacquer compared to those of specimens glued with synthetic glue and uncoated specimens glued with fish glue. This study reveals the excellent properties of fish glue and lacquer, which enable them to be used in various industries.

3D body scanning and printing are attracting attention as innovative technologies for producing dress forms. While designing dress forms, the shape of the human body must be accurately reflected in the different postures. This study explored the development of dress forms as a tool to understand changes in body size and shape according to postures and reflect this information to design and fit evaluation in the apparel industry. The holistic development process of dress forms in standing and sitting postures was suggested for representing the body shape of a specific target group. The average shape of middle-aged Korean women was derived by analyzing the 6th Size Korea data. A representative participant whose dimensions were closest to the average size was selected among recruited participants for the dress form development. The body data were acquired with a portable 3D scanner and corresponding dress forms and accessories were modeled using 3D CAD software. The models were inspected and corrected through prototyping. Full-size dress forms in standing and sitting postures were printed using a fused deposition modeling (FDM) 3D printer and post-processed. Completed dress forms were body-scanned and their accuracy was evaluated through morphological similarity comparison, cross-sectional image comparison, surface area and volume comparison, and mesh deviation analysis. Although there were some minor differences caused by the modeling process, the developed dress forms reflected the main characteristics and shapes of the representative body satisfactorily.

This study investigated the visual behavior of consumers within an immersive virtual reality (VR) fashion store on the basis of their fashion involvement. Their shopping motivation was considered as a moderator. A total of 23 consumers participated, and the participants’ actual visual behaviors were recorded in real-time during their store experience section using an eye-tracking device attached to a VR head-mounted display. Results revealed that the greater the consumer’s fashion involvement, the greater their attention to the store area, and the greater their ability to observe more diverse areas in the store. Consumers with higher fashion involvement and browsing motivation spent less time focusing on the product area. Meanwhile, consumers with higher fashion involvement and searching motivation spent more time focusing on the product area. Visual attention to the store area positively affected experience satisfaction, and the effect of visual attention to the product area on satisfaction was moderated by consumers’ shopping motivation.