Fashion and Textiles最新文献

The aim of this study is to develop digitalized evaluation methods for fabric shrinkage and damage using image analysis. To develop the shrinkage assessment method, 81 grid dots (nine horizontal lines and nine vertical lines) are introduced into the test fabric. This allows the shrinkage to be verified based on the change in distance between neighboring dots, which not only presents the shrinkage in the warp and weft directions, but also the area shrinkage and skewness. The developed evaluation method yields a value that differs from the actual measured value by less than 1 mm, which confirms its significance. To develop a damage evaluation method using the Original Danish MA test fabric, the change in area caused by loosening threads in five holes is evaluated. The area change in the developed method and the number of loosened threads in the conventional method has a high correlation. Comparing the number of dots in the Poka-Dot test fabric before and after washing enables one to distinguish incorrectly created dots during the manufacturing process and to accurately measure the number of missing dots such that the result is similar to the actual measurement. The accuracy and reproducibility of the developed measurement method are confirmed using various verification such as error rate, washing cycle, and washing time. Digitizing the evaluation method can contribute to the digital transformation of apparel quality evaluation by reducing labor and errors between evaluators.

Recycling and converting  textile waste into value-added products with enhanced functional properties pave the way toward a circular economy for sustainability. This research investigates the utilization of recycled cotton fiber from apparel cutting waste for fabricating high-performance thermal barrier fabrics. The physical characterization of the developed fabrics revealed a regular arrangement of fibers, consequently the uniform thickness of the fabric with no distortion on fiber surfaces due to the recycling operation of cotton waste. The developed fabrics also demonstrated a high softness index and low compression and bending average rigidity compared to the commercial fabric with similar thickness. The heat protection performance revealed an increase in fabric conductive and radiative heat resistance with increasing the amount of recycled cotton fiber in the fabrics. The inherent thermal resistance of cotton fiber and the low inter-fiber spacing because of their uniform orientation in the fabric lead to the high thermal resistance of developed fabrics. In the case of fabric air permeability concerning the clothing thermal comfort, no significant difference in breathability was observed among the test specimens. Besides, the moisture management profile of developed fabrics indicated the capability to create favorable thermal comfort within the clothing-skin microenvironment because of improved liquid transportation and diffusion of perspiration vapor through the fabric.

The thermal comfort of a work glove affects wear compliance. This study investigates the thermal comfort of five types of anti-vibration gloves that use chloroprene rubber and spacer fabric as materials to isolate vibration. An evaluation of the fabric and material on the palm and dorsal of the glove, and a wear trial of the gloves were subsequently carried out. The results showed that the palm of the glove made of spacer fabric had higher air and water vapour permeabilities than chloroprene rubber. Using a thin mesh fabric for the dorsal of the glove resulted in a significantly lower skin temperature than using spacer fabric or chloroprene rubber during hand activity. The thermal sensation of the subjects showed no significant difference among the five glove samples. However, the glove wear comfort of the spacer fabric glove was the lowest. Recommendations for the fabric thickness and glove design are provided for developing anti-vibration gloves.

An exhaustive and integrative overview of recent developments in 3D and 4D textiles based on Additive Manufacturing (AM) were provided in order to identify the current state‐of‐the‐art. Despite all scientific progress, AM applied on textiles is a challenging technique and is still at an embryonic stage of research and technological development (R&TD), mainly due to the technological gap between featured prototypes and scalability in manufacturing. Despite its full potential across a range of different applications, such as development of functional filament fibres/wires, 3D printing on textiles, 3D printing completed garments and 4D textiles, needs future developments. Although, AM applied on textiles, enables cost and resource efficiency for small scale production through localised production, shorten supply chain and demand driven manufacture, both customisable and scalable, embracing cost and environmental sustainability. The opportunities and limits of 3D and 4D printing textiles are also discussed. Finally, the conclusion highlights the potential future development and application of the convergence of advanced computational design techniques, product customization, mathematical modelling, simulation, and digital modelling within multifunctional textiles.

Graphical Abstract

Due to pressing sustainability challenges, the fashion industry is undergoing tremendous change. Surprisingly, even though the unique context of fashion presents an opportunity for scholars to explore the (un)sustainable transitions, this context has yet to receive the attention of transition scholars. Our article explores fashion transitions and develops a conceptual framework demonstrating this transition's multi-level and multi-dimensional interactions. We draw on three literature areas: multi-level perspective (MLP) of sustainable transitions, institutional logics and framing contests. We then introduce a conceptual framework and illustrative examples from the industry and demonstrate the tensions between positive and negative environmental and socialsustainability developments at the niche, regime and landscape levels. We show that while many positive developments can be seen in the regime players through the adoption of corporate sustainability initiatives, new business models and collaborations, more attention should also be given to some adverse developments. Overall, we contribute to the literature by exploring fashion transitions, an under-explored context, and by demonstrating the complexity of interactions due to the diffusion of heterogeneous institutional logics and framing contests between players.

Fashion image datasets, in which each fashion image has a label indicating its design attributes and styles, have contributed to the achievement of various machine learning techniques in the fashion industry. Computer vision studies have investigated labeling categories (such as fashion items, colors, materials, details, and styles) to create fashion image datasets for supervised learning. Although a considerable number of fashion image datasets has been developed, different style classification criteria exist because of a lack of understanding concerning fashion style. Since fashion styles reflect various design attributes, multiple styles can often be included in a single outfit. Thus, this study aims to build a Hybrid Style Framework to develop a fashion image dataset that can be efficiently applied to supervised learning. We conducted focus group interviews with six fashion experts to determine fashion style categories with which to classify hybrid styles in fashion images. We developed 1,206,931K-fashion image datasets and analyzed the hybrid style convergence. Finally, we applied the datasets to the machine learning model and verified the accuracy of the computer’s ability to recognize style. Overall, this study concludes that the Hybrid Style Framework and developed K-fashion image datasets are helpful, as they can be applied to data-driven fashion services to offer personalized fashion design solutions.

Herein, we analyzed total polyphenol content, total flavonoid content, and the antioxidant activity of the ethanol and distilled water extracted Houttuynia cordata perennial herb. Later, we investigated the possibility of producing Houttuynia cordata extract (HCE) loaded Polyurethane (PU) nanofibers via the electrospinning technique. The analysis confirmed that the total polyphenol, total flavonoid content, and antioxidant activity of the ethanol extracted HCE were higher than the distilled water extracted HCE. Therefore, the ethanol extracted HCE was used to prepare HCE/PU nanofibers by varying concentrations of HCE and PU. The HCE/PU nanofibers showed a mixed pattern of beads and fibers at a PU concentration of 10 wt%. However, at 12 wt% PU concentration, relatively uniform nanofibers with an average diameter of about 200 nm were formed at 1.0% and 1.5 wt% of HCE. The successful incorporation of HCE in PU nanofibrous matrix was confirmed by the presence of its characteristic bands in Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) and X-ray diffraction (XRD) spectra. The addition of HCE increased the crystallinity, the amount of heat required for pyrolysis, and the thermal stability of HCE/PU nanofibers, which must be credited to the HCE-derived quercitrin and quercetin crystallite solids.

The purpose of this study is to raise awareness of the uniqueness and excellence of Korea’s traditional culture among members of the MZ generation (Millennials and generation Z) and explore the possibility of utilizing archetypes of traditional culture in the contemporary context. To that end, this study develops and proposes unique contemporary textile pattern designs applying M. C. Escher’s tessellation technique to the formative characteristics and symbolic meaning of Chaekgeori icons. To develop the designs, this study reviews the previous literature and theoretically considers the concept of Chaekgeori, its formative characteristics, and Escher’s tessellation. After extracting iconsrelated to the themes, stylized iconographic motives were applied to geometric shapes to create repeating units. Then, Escher’s tessellation was applied to these repeats to develop twelve contemporarily reimagined textile patterns. To verify the usability of the developed textile pattern designs in products targeting the MZ generation, in-depth interviews were conducted with the MZ generation living in Jeju. The developed textile patterns were mapped onto the selected items to prove the applicability of the developed textile patterns to the items preferred by the MZ generation. The contribution of this study lies in the fact that it develops unique and contemporary textile pattern designs based on the formative characteristics and symbolic meaning of Chaekgeori icons and maps the designs of fashion items preferred by the MZ generation, thereby raising awareness of the value and excellence of Chaekgeori as a part of Korea’s traditional culture and shedding light on the possibility of using traditional cultural archetypes in contemporary contexts.

Shape memory alloys (SMAs) have a special ability to remember their initial shape and return from operating temperature. For this special ability, there are many studies in the field of smart wearables to replace rigid, heavy, and large electric actuators with SMAs that can be a fabrication. The usual operating method of the SMA is heating the SMA by direct Joule heating with electricity. Although direct Joule heating is fast and easy, there is overshooting, unstable, and high-power consumption. For these issues to use the SMA as textile actuators, this research suggested a heating method with silver paste required lower power consumption and coating the basic fabric with carbon nanotubes (CNTs) to support heating stability and heat uniformity. The heating method evaluated the efficiency of heat by comparing direct heating and silver layer heating and the uniformity of heat with the infrared images of whether CNTs coated or not. In this research, we reached higher temperatures with lower power than direct Joule heating using wearable heaters manufactured using silver paste. In addition, we confirmed that coating the basic fabric with carbon nanotubes reduce the temperature imbalance, and improved the heating stability. This research is expected that SMA will be used as a wearable actuator to help develop wearable devices that can move.

Naturally occurring compounds can be utilized as coloring and finishing agents in environmentally friendly textile products. Aronia melanocarpa (Aronia) fruits (berries) are rich in bioactive compounds such as various form of polyphenolic compounds showing antibacterial and antioxidant, and thus numerous studies have been actively conducted on Aronia berry extract (AE) in recent years. However, most natural compounds including pigments exhibit inferior fixation and fastness when applied to cellulosic fibers. Therefore, in this study, coloring and functional compounds were extracted from Aronia berries and applied with or without chitosan to cotton fabrics to improve dyeability and functionality. The cotton fabrics were treated as follows: dyed with an AE single aqueous solution; dyed with an AE–chitosan mixture; and dyed with AE after being pretreated with a chitosan solution. Cotton fabrics dyed with AE and/or chitosan were investigated for their coloring properties and functionality, such as antibacterial properties and antioxidant capacity. It was proven that AE can be used to dye chitosan pretreated cotton fabrics, obtaining good color properties. Moreover, the cotton fabrics dyed with AE after chitosan pretreatment completely inhibited the growth of bacteria (> 99.9%) and exhibited antioxidant properties.