Fashion and Textiles最新文献

Due to pressing sustainability challenges, the fashion industry is undergoing tremendous change. Surprisingly, even though the unique context of fashion presents an opportunity for scholars to explore the (un)sustainable transitions, this context has yet to receive the attention of transition scholars. Our article explores fashion transitions and develops a conceptual framework demonstrating this transition's multi-level and multi-dimensional interactions. We draw on three literature areas: multi-level perspective (MLP) of sustainable transitions, institutional logics and framing contests. We then introduce a conceptual framework and illustrative examples from the industry and demonstrate the tensions between positive and negative environmental and socialsustainability developments at the niche, regime and landscape levels. We show that while many positive developments can be seen in the regime players through the adoption of corporate sustainability initiatives, new business models and collaborations, more attention should also be given to some adverse developments. Overall, we contribute to the literature by exploring fashion transitions, an under-explored context, and by demonstrating the complexity of interactions due to the diffusion of heterogeneous institutional logics and framing contests between players.

Fashion image datasets, in which each fashion image has a label indicating its design attributes and styles, have contributed to the achievement of various machine learning techniques in the fashion industry. Computer vision studies have investigated labeling categories (such as fashion items, colors, materials, details, and styles) to create fashion image datasets for supervised learning. Although a considerable number of fashion image datasets has been developed, different style classification criteria exist because of a lack of understanding concerning fashion style. Since fashion styles reflect various design attributes, multiple styles can often be included in a single outfit. Thus, this study aims to build a Hybrid Style Framework to develop a fashion image dataset that can be efficiently applied to supervised learning. We conducted focus group interviews with six fashion experts to determine fashion style categories with which to classify hybrid styles in fashion images. We developed 1,206,931K-fashion image datasets and analyzed the hybrid style convergence. Finally, we applied the datasets to the machine learning model and verified the accuracy of the computer’s ability to recognize style. Overall, this study concludes that the Hybrid Style Framework and developed K-fashion image datasets are helpful, as they can be applied to data-driven fashion services to offer personalized fashion design solutions.

Herein, we analyzed total polyphenol content, total flavonoid content, and the antioxidant activity of the ethanol and distilled water extracted Houttuynia cordata perennial herb. Later, we investigated the possibility of producing Houttuynia cordata extract (HCE) loaded Polyurethane (PU) nanofibers via the electrospinning technique. The analysis confirmed that the total polyphenol, total flavonoid content, and antioxidant activity of the ethanol extracted HCE were higher than the distilled water extracted HCE. Therefore, the ethanol extracted HCE was used to prepare HCE/PU nanofibers by varying concentrations of HCE and PU. The HCE/PU nanofibers showed a mixed pattern of beads and fibers at a PU concentration of 10 wt%. However, at 12 wt% PU concentration, relatively uniform nanofibers with an average diameter of about 200 nm were formed at 1.0% and 1.5 wt% of HCE. The successful incorporation of HCE in PU nanofibrous matrix was confirmed by the presence of its characteristic bands in Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) and X-ray diffraction (XRD) spectra. The addition of HCE increased the crystallinity, the amount of heat required for pyrolysis, and the thermal stability of HCE/PU nanofibers, which must be credited to the HCE-derived quercitrin and quercetin crystallite solids.

The purpose of this study is to raise awareness of the uniqueness and excellence of Korea’s traditional culture among members of the MZ generation (Millennials and generation Z) and explore the possibility of utilizing archetypes of traditional culture in the contemporary context. To that end, this study develops and proposes unique contemporary textile pattern designs applying M. C. Escher’s tessellation technique to the formative characteristics and symbolic meaning of Chaekgeori icons. To develop the designs, this study reviews the previous literature and theoretically considers the concept of Chaekgeori, its formative characteristics, and Escher’s tessellation. After extracting iconsrelated to the themes, stylized iconographic motives were applied to geometric shapes to create repeating units. Then, Escher’s tessellation was applied to these repeats to develop twelve contemporarily reimagined textile patterns. To verify the usability of the developed textile pattern designs in products targeting the MZ generation, in-depth interviews were conducted with the MZ generation living in Jeju. The developed textile patterns were mapped onto the selected items to prove the applicability of the developed textile patterns to the items preferred by the MZ generation. The contribution of this study lies in the fact that it develops unique and contemporary textile pattern designs based on the formative characteristics and symbolic meaning of Chaekgeori icons and maps the designs of fashion items preferred by the MZ generation, thereby raising awareness of the value and excellence of Chaekgeori as a part of Korea’s traditional culture and shedding light on the possibility of using traditional cultural archetypes in contemporary contexts.

Shape memory alloys (SMAs) have a special ability to remember their initial shape and return from operating temperature. For this special ability, there are many studies in the field of smart wearables to replace rigid, heavy, and large electric actuators with SMAs that can be a fabrication. The usual operating method of the SMA is heating the SMA by direct Joule heating with electricity. Although direct Joule heating is fast and easy, there is overshooting, unstable, and high-power consumption. For these issues to use the SMA as textile actuators, this research suggested a heating method with silver paste required lower power consumption and coating the basic fabric with carbon nanotubes (CNTs) to support heating stability and heat uniformity. The heating method evaluated the efficiency of heat by comparing direct heating and silver layer heating and the uniformity of heat with the infrared images of whether CNTs coated or not. In this research, we reached higher temperatures with lower power than direct Joule heating using wearable heaters manufactured using silver paste. In addition, we confirmed that coating the basic fabric with carbon nanotubes reduce the temperature imbalance, and improved the heating stability. This research is expected that SMA will be used as a wearable actuator to help develop wearable devices that can move.

Naturally occurring compounds can be utilized as coloring and finishing agents in environmentally friendly textile products. Aronia melanocarpa (Aronia) fruits (berries) are rich in bioactive compounds such as various form of polyphenolic compounds showing antibacterial and antioxidant, and thus numerous studies have been actively conducted on Aronia berry extract (AE) in recent years. However, most natural compounds including pigments exhibit inferior fixation and fastness when applied to cellulosic fibers. Therefore, in this study, coloring and functional compounds were extracted from Aronia berries and applied with or without chitosan to cotton fabrics to improve dyeability and functionality. The cotton fabrics were treated as follows: dyed with an AE single aqueous solution; dyed with an AE–chitosan mixture; and dyed with AE after being pretreated with a chitosan solution. Cotton fabrics dyed with AE and/or chitosan were investigated for their coloring properties and functionality, such as antibacterial properties and antioxidant capacity. It was proven that AE can be used to dye chitosan pretreated cotton fabrics, obtaining good color properties. Moreover, the cotton fabrics dyed with AE after chitosan pretreatment completely inhibited the growth of bacteria (> 99.9%) and exhibited antioxidant properties.

As a sports facility category, a sports bra is regarded as an enabling technology garment with advanced functions and new cultural meanings. Women, particularly elderly women, are encouraged to wear a sports bra during physical activity because wearing a sports bra can not only prevent them from exercise-induced injuries but also increase the acceptance of their bodies. However, most studies usually targeted younger women. The requirements and expectations of elderly women on sports bras differ from younger individuals. Hence, this study aims to advance and explore the design demands, providing insights into age-friendly sports bra design by using more permeable physical and psychological boundaries based on conceptual frameworks. The sports bra evaluation words were extracted and calculated to construct the network. The appearance frequency of keywords, closeness centrality, betweenness centrality, and interconnection between every pair of words were illustrated and analyzed by using semantic-based network analysis. Network analysis deduced that the discomfort of sports bras was closely related with the support, tightness, cup design, and strap design. Beside, thermal management contributes significantly to the comfort. The outlook of a sports bra was associated with cup design. The Page-rank result showed that cup, tightness, hot, straps and quality were the top five important design attributes. The unobservable mechanisms underlying the keywords provide an alternative model, which can help to explore the key improvements for sports bra design.

Co-creation activities have shown dramatic development somewhat recently. The initial step of a productive co-creation technique originates from a comprehension of people’s practices inside of these websites. Based on the limited knowledge of online co-creation behaviour in the retail sector, particularly in fashion retailing, this study develops a latent class segmentation analysis that allows examining the diversity of co-creation behaviours. Thus, the main objective of this paper is to analyse the heterogeneity of co-creators’ behaviours in the online retail environment. This study examines different indicators that determine the co-creation behaviour of users such as co-creation value and activities, engagement with the company/brand, satisfaction with the co-creation process, intention to continue co-creating) in the Spanish fashion sector. Three different segments have been obtained: “full co-creator”, “co-creator oriented to the company/brand” and “co-creator oriented to other people” that show three distinct ways of co-creating with a fashion firm. The findings offer fashion retailers an interesting perspective for attracting customers to co-creation ventures during the fashion online shopping process.

Disposable diaper is one of the most polluting products in the world and presents many potential health risks for children. In this paper, to avoid those diaper problems, propose a safer reusable baby diaper with the same performances as disposable diapers with non-harmful materials. A comparative study has been conducted on the developed 3D knitted reusable diaper and some commercial disposable diapers including the most popular diaper goods. Thus, diaper performances have been measured and limit values have been checked. The obtained results prove that the properties of the developed reusable diaper are comparable to those of the disposable baby’s diapers available on the market. Finally, using chromatography analysis, we prove the non-harmful compounds in the developed baby diaper. For further investigation, a a new design of the risk assessment matrix related the menace trigger has been also prepared. The developed reusable diaper can be a promising alternative of the diaper with an efficient quality and functionality.

Hair treatments containing vegetable oils protect the damaged hair by surface coating and by penetrating in hair thereby filling the gaps caused by oxidative damage. Vegetable oil is composed mostly of medium-chain or long-chain fatty acids which exist as triglycerides. Although there are literatures which deal with the penetration of specific natural oils into hair there is a lack of research which provide the empirical data that can be used to explain the penetration of larger population of vegetable oils. This research was aimed to examine whether the chain length of fatty acid affect the penetration of fatty acid and protection in hair and also to apply the results on explaining the protective effect of Medium-Chain Triglyceride oil (MCT oil) and Coconut oil. Nine different hair treatments were formulated with three medium-chain fatty acids (C8:0, C10:0, C12:0), three long-chain fatty acids (C14:0, C16:0, C18:0), MCT oil, Coconut oil, and a blank. Composition of fatty acids of hair was examined by the Gas chromatography mass spectrometry. Penetration of fatty acid in hair was examined by the UV–VIS spectrophotometry. Protection of damaged hair was examined by the differences in color, tensile strength, thickness, and the concentration of protein leak of 21-day vs. 0-day measurements. Results of t-test indicated that the penetration and the protection of the medium-chain fatty acid was significantly better than those of the long-chain fatty acid, and that MCT oil and coconut oil were not significantly different.