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Washability and abrasion resistance of illuminative knitted e-textiles with POFs and silver-coated conductive yarns POFs和镀银导电纱照明针织电子纺织品的耐洗性和耐磨性
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2022-11-25 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-022-00313-9
Ngan Yi Kitty Lam, Jeanne Tan, Anne Toomey, Ka Chun Jimmy Cheuk

For the integration of conductive yarns in e-textiles, knitting offers structural versatility and malleability for wider product applications in the contexts of wearables and interiors. To enable mass adoption of conductive materials, it is imperative for users to be able to launder these materials as part of product maintenance. Interactive textiles knitted from polymeric optical fibres (POFs) and silver-coated conductive yarns are able to illuminate and change colours via integrated touch sensor systems. Current research only focuses on the washability and abrasion resistance of conductive yarns solely and not both POF and conductive yarn within the same fabric structure. This study is novel as it investigates the washability and abrasion resistance of POF and silver-coated conductive yarn integrated knitted textiles with different loop structures and the impact to their illuminative function. POFs were knitted within the same fabric structure by the inlay method using a 7-gauge industrial hand-operated flatbed knitting machine. This study examined how washing and abrasion affect POFs and silver-coated conductive yarn in five different knit structures, and the illuminative function of the knitted textiles. Washing and abrasion affected the resistance of conductive yarns. Scratches and bent POFs were observed after 20 gentle washing cycles. However, washing had minimal impact on the illuminative function of the knitted e-textiles examined in this study. The experiments provide evidence that e-textiles knitted with POFs and conductive yarns in the same fabric structure withstand washing and abrasion and thus have the potential for mass market adoption in fashion and interior applications.

对于导电纱线在电子纺织品中的集成,针织为可穿戴设备和室内设计中更广泛的产品应用提供了结构上的多功能性和延展性。为了大规模采用导电材料,用户必须能够将这些材料清洗作为产品维护的一部分。由聚合光纤(POFs)和镀银导电纱线编织的交互式纺织品能够通过集成的触摸传感器系统照亮和改变颜色。目前的研究只关注导电纱的耐洗性和耐磨性,而不是在同一织物结构中同时研究POF和导电纱。本研究以不同环型结构的POF和镀银导电纱为研究对象,研究其耐洗性和耐磨性,以及对其照明性能的影响。在7码工业手摇横机上,采用镶嵌法在同一织物结构内编织POFs。本研究考察了洗涤和磨损对五种不同针织结构的POFs和镀银导电纱的影响,以及针织物的照明功能。洗涤和磨损影响导电纱的耐磨性。在20次温和的洗涤循环后,观察到划痕和弯曲的POFs。然而,洗涤对本研究中检测的针织电子纺织品的照明功能影响最小。实验证明,用POFs和导电纱线编织的电子纺织品在相同的织物结构中经得起洗涤和磨损,因此在时尚和室内应用方面具有大规模市场采用的潜力。
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引用次数: 3
Analysis of driving forces of 3D knitted shape memory textile actuators using scale-up finite element method 三维针织形状记忆织物执行器驱动力的放大有限元分析
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2022-11-15 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-022-00307-7
SangUn Kim, Jooyong Kim

The shape memory textile actuator uses a shape memory alloy that changes its crystal structure according to temperature and then returns to its initial shape, which is suitable for wearable applications that value wearing and portability. The shape memory effect of returning to the initial shape and the complex fabric structure influence each other, and accordingly, various drives have been measured in many studies. Therefore, in this study, the driving force, which is the most important physical property of the shape memory textile actuator, was analyzed through a scale-up finite element analysis. In the wire scale, a shape memory alloy wire was obtained for an analysis of the mechanical and thermal properties through tensile tests and DSC, and in the unit cell scale, a 3D knit structure was modeled using the Texgen and Weftknit programs. Finally, a supercell of size 5 × 5 was subjected to external deformation by displacement and heating conditions using disposition through the ANSYS program. The driving force was measured through microanalysis. Subsequently, the driving force of the manufactured shape memory textile actuator was compared and analyzed to determine the suitability of this method. Furthermore, the direction of subsequent studies was mapped based on the analysis presented on the differences in the maximum driving force and error rate.

形状记忆纺织致动器使用形状记忆合金,根据温度改变其晶体结构,然后恢复其初始形状,适用于重视磨损和便携性的可穿戴应用。回归初始形状的形状记忆效应与复杂织物结构的形状记忆效应相互影响,因此在许多研究中测量了各种驱动因素。因此,在本研究中,驱动力作为形状记忆纺织致动器最重要的物理特性,通过放大有限元分析进行了分析。在金属丝尺度上,通过拉伸测试和DSC分析了形状记忆合金金属丝的力学和热性能;在单位细胞尺度上,使用Texgen和Weftknit程序对三维编织结构进行了建模。最后,利用ANSYS程序对5 × 5尺寸的超级单体进行了位移和加热条件下的外部变形处理。驱动力通过微量分析测定。随后,对所制造的形状记忆纺织品致动器的驱动力进行了比较和分析,以确定该方法的适用性。通过对最大驱动力和错误率差异的分析,提出了后续研究的方向。
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引用次数: 2
The assessment, development, and measurement of human capacity building programs for El Salvador’s textile and apparel industry 评估、发展和衡量萨尔瓦多纺织和服装工业的人力能力建设项目
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2022-11-05 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-022-00311-x
Laura E. McAndrews, Jung E. Ha-Brookshire

Sustained competitive advantage in developing nations is driven by human development through intangible assets that come from education. Grounded from Barney’s (Journal of Management 17:99–120, 1991) resource-based theory, this study was designed (a) to assess El Salvador’s textile and apparel (T&A) industry by identifying key knowledge gaps, (b) to create human capacity building opportunities using Kolb’s experiential learning theory for T&A supply chain members, and (c) to measure effectiveness of such opportunities through principle-attributes matrix, ultimately helping the industry sector compete. A case study research study approach was used to develop a comprehensive approach to develop four educational workshops for Salvadorian T&A supply chain members from April 2019 to February 2020. Pre and post surveys measured workshops’ effectiveness in knowledge, skills, and attitudes. The results showed that there was a statistically significant difference in pre- and post means for knowledge, skills, and attitudes for all four workshops. Further analysis showed that each of the workshops statistically changed participants’ human capacity in supply chain management, product development, marketing, and CAFTA-DR provisions. The study shows that educational theory could be used successfully for human capacity building in developing nations and supply chain training.

发展中国家持续的竞争优势是由教育带来的无形资产推动的人类发展。基于Barney (Journal of Management, 1991)的资源基础理论,本研究旨在(a)通过识别关键知识缺口来评估萨尔瓦多的纺织和服装(T& a)行业,(b)利用Kolb的体验式学习理论为T& a供应链成员创造人力能力建设机会,(c)通过原则-属性矩阵来衡量这些机会的有效性,最终帮助行业部门竞争。2019年4月至2020年2月,采用案例研究方法为萨尔瓦多T&A供应链成员制定了四次教育研讨会。前后调查测量了工作坊在知识、技能和态度方面的有效性。结果显示,四个工作坊的知识、技能和态度的前后均值有统计学上的显著差异。进一步的分析表明,每个研讨会在统计上改变了参与者在供应链管理、产品开发、营销和CAFTA-DR条款方面的人力能力。该研究表明,教育理论可以成功地用于发展中国家的人力能力建设和供应链培训。
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引用次数: 0
Knowledge roadmap of sustainable development in the textile and apparel industry: a scientometric analysis 纺织服装行业可持续发展的知识路线图:科学计量分析
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2022-10-25 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-022-00308-6
Zhaoshan Wu, Liya Zhou, Xuemei Ding, Xiongying Wu, Laili Wang

Practices in the textile and apparel industry (TAI) have led to numerous environmental and social problems, which have prompted extensive research on the sustainable development of the textile and apparel industry (SDTAI). This paper presents a comprehensive and quantitative analysis of the status quo in the SDTAI domain using scientometrics. From 1987 to 2019, the Web of Science core collection databases (SCI and SSCI) included 863 journal articles related to SDTAI, and our analysis results were as follows: (1) 60 critical research keywords occur in the knowledge base; (2) four research hotspots were identified; (3) five themes constituted the main knowledge area; and (4) based on the knowledge base, research hotspot, and knowledge domain, the knowledge structure consisted of nine subjects and five systems. This paper proposes a knowledge roadmap that can be helpful for practitioners and academicians to better understand the current sustainable development status and trends in the TAI.

纺织服装行业的实践导致了许多环境和社会问题,这促使人们对纺织服装行业的可持续发展进行了广泛的研究。本文利用科学计量学对SDTAI领域的现状进行了全面、定量的分析。1987 - 2019年,Web of Science核心收录数据库(SCI和SSCI)收录SDTAI相关期刊论文863篇,分析结果如下:(1)60个关键研究关键词出现在知识库中;(2)确定了4个研究热点;(3)五个主题构成了主要的知识领域;(4)基于知识库、研究热点和知识领域,知识结构由9个学科和5个系统组成。本文提出了一个知识路线图,可以帮助从业者和学者更好地了解当前TAI的可持续发展状况和趋势。
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引用次数: 2
Automatic extraction of upper body landmarks using Rhino and Grasshopper algorithms 使用Rhino和Grasshopper算法自动提取上半身标志
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2022-10-25 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-022-00302-y
Eun Joo Ryu, Hwa Kyung Song

The aim of this study is to develop algorithms for automatic landmark extraction on women with various upper body types and body inclinations using the Grasshopper algorithm editor, which enables the user to interact with the 3D modeling interface. First, 15 landmarks were defined based on the morphological features of 3D body surfaces and clothing applications, from which automatic landmark extraction algorithms were developed. To verify the accuracy of the algorithms on various body shapes, this study determined criteria for key body shape factors (BMI, neck slope, upper body slope, and shoulder slope) that influence each landmark position, classified them into body shape groups and sorted the scan samples for each body type using the 6th SizeKorea database. The statistical differences between the scan-derived measurements and the SizeKorea measurements were compared, with an allowable tolerance of ISO 20685. In the case of landmarks with significant differences, the algorithm was modified. It was found that the algorithms were successfully applied to various upper body shapes, which improved the reliability and accuracy of the algorithm.

本研究的目的是利用Grasshopper算法编辑器开发对不同上半身类型和身体倾斜的女性进行自动地标提取的算法,使用户能够与3D建模界面进行交互。首先,基于三维人体表面和服装应用的形态特征定义了15个地标,并据此开发了自动地标提取算法;为了验证算法在各种体型上的准确性,本研究确定了影响每个地标位置的关键体型因素(BMI、颈部坡度、上身坡度和肩部坡度)的标准,将其分类为体型组,并使用第6 SizeKorea数据库对每种体型的扫描样本进行分类。扫描测量和SizeKorea测量之间的统计差异进行了比较,允许公差为ISO 20685。在地标差异显著的情况下,对算法进行修改。结果表明,该算法成功地应用于各种上半身形状,提高了算法的可靠性和准确性。
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引用次数: 2
The effect of touch simulation in virtual reality shopping 触摸模拟在虚拟现实购物中的效果
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2022-10-15 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-022-00312-w
Ha Kyung Lee, Namhee Yoon, Dooyoung Choi

This study aims to explore the effect of touch simulation on virtual reality (VR) store satisfaction mediated by VR shopping self-efficacy and VR shopping pleasure. The moderation effects of the autotelic and instrumental need for touch between touch simulation and VR store satisfaction are also explored. Participants wear a head-mounted display VR device (Oculus Go) in a controlled laboratory environment, and their VR store experience is recorded as data. All participants’ responses (n = 58) are analyzed using SPSS 20.0 for descriptive statistics, reliability analysis, exploratory factor analysis, and the Process macro model analysis. The results show that touch simulation positively influences VR store satisfaction, which is mediated by the self-efficacy and by the dual path of the self-efficacy and the pleasure. Furthermore, the relation between touch simulation and pleasure is moderated by need for touch. For individuals with a high level of autotelic need for touch, the effect of touch simulation on the pleasure is heightened. However, instrumental need for touch does not moderate the path of touch simulation on the self-efficacy.

本研究旨在探讨触觉模拟对虚拟现实购物自我效能感和虚拟现实购物愉悦感所介导的虚拟现实商店满意度的影响。本文还探讨了触觉模拟与虚拟现实商店满意度之间的自利性和工具性触觉需求的调节作用。参与者在受控的实验室环境中佩戴头戴式显示VR设备(Oculus Go),他们的VR商店体验被记录为数据。采用SPSS 20.0进行描述性统计、信度分析、探索性因子分析和Process宏观模型分析。结果表明,触摸模拟对虚拟现实商店满意度有正向影响,其中介作用为自我效能感,并通过自我效能感与愉悦感的双重路径。此外,触觉模拟和愉悦之间的关系受到触觉需求的调节。对于具有高水平自利性触觉需求的个体,触觉模拟对愉悦感的影响更大。然而,触摸的工具性需要并没有调节触摸模拟对自我效能的影响。
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引用次数: 1
Evaluation of 3D apparel design spatial visualization training for cognitive function of older adults: cross-cultural comparisons 三维服装设计空间可视化训练对老年人认知功能的评价:跨文化比较
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2022-10-05 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-022-00292-x
Hyo Jung Julie Chang, Seoha Min

This study examined how older adults of four different ethnic groups evaluate the spatial visualization training using 3D apparel design software. The model tested was derived from the Technology Acceptance Model (TAM) and a Unified Theory of Acceptance and Use of Technology (UTAUT). A quantitative research design with an online questionnaire using the purposive quota sampling was used. Structure equation modeling and ANOVAs were performed to test the hypotheses with 600 completed data. The result shows significant ethnic differences of the perceptions, attitude, and behavioral intention for our spatial visualization training. Especially, Asian Americans found the training easy to be involved with and were more likely to use it, whereas Caucasian Americans felt the training to be most difficult and were less likely to use it, compared to other ethnic groups. Also, perceived ease of use and the performance expectancy are cardinal in increasing the positive attitude toward the training. This study discovered the significant factors influencing the intention to use the apparel design virtual technology to improve cognitive functioning. The ethical differences found on the latent variables among four ethnic groups indicate the need of more thoughtful training development by considering the different cultural requirements and challenges.

本研究考察了四个不同民族的老年人如何评价三维服装设计软件的空间可视化训练。所测试的模型来源于技术接受模型(TAM)和技术接受与使用统一理论(UTAUT)。采用有目的的定额抽样,采用在线问卷的定量研究设计。采用结构方程模型和方差分析对600份完整数据进行假设检验。结果显示,不同种族对空间可视化训练的认知、态度和行为意向存在显著差异。特别是,亚裔美国人觉得培训很容易参与,更有可能使用它,而白人美国人觉得培训最难,与其他种族相比,不太可能使用它。此外,感知易用性和绩效期望是提高培训积极态度的主要因素。本研究发现影响使用服装设计虚拟技术改善认知功能意愿的显著因素。四个民族在潜在变量上的伦理差异表明,需要考虑到不同的文化要求和挑战,进行更加周到的培训开发。
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引用次数: 1
Development of cellulosic-based hemostatic dressing with antibacterial activity 具有抗菌活性的纤维素基止血敷料的研制
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2022-09-25 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-022-00305-9
Mostafa Goodarz, Amir Behzadnia, Hassan Mohammadi

A cotton-based hemostatic dressing featuring antibacterial properties was developed with the potential of being used in traffic accidents to control hemorrhage. Cotton gauze was oxidized initially in an acidic medium and then coated by PVA nanofibers and/or PVA nanofibers loaded with Ciprofloxacin. Fabricated dressings were characterized by FTIR analysis and SEM images. The FTIR spectrum showed the existence of carboxyl groups on the oxidized cotton gauze's surface. The carboxyl groups content was estimated to be 17.3 ± 0.3 for the oxidized sample with a mixture of nitric acid and phosphoric acid for 24 h (OCF-Mixed acid24). Moreover, the effect of the exposure duration of cotton gauze in the acidic medium on the blood coagulation activity was assessed. It was observed that the OCF-Mixed acid24 sample exhibited an agreeable hemostatic activity (BCIs = 10). The antibacterial activity against E. coli and S. aureus bacteria was also captured for the coated cotton gauze by the PVA nanofibers loaded with Ciprofloxacin.

开发了一种具有抗菌性能的棉基止血敷料,具有在交通事故中控制出血的潜力。首先在酸性介质中氧化棉纱,然后用PVA纳米纤维和/或负载环丙沙星的PVA纳米纤维包覆棉纱。用FTIR和SEM对敷料进行了表征。红外光谱分析表明,氧化棉纱网表面存在羧基。用硝酸和磷酸混合24 h (OCF-Mixed acid24)氧化样品,羧基含量估计为17.3±0.3。此外,还评估了棉纱布在酸性介质中暴露时间对凝血活性的影响。观察到ocf -混合酸24样品具有良好的止血活性(bci = 10)。采用环丙沙星负载的聚乙烯醇纳米纤维包被棉纱,并对大肠杆菌和金黄色葡萄球菌进行了抑菌活性测定。
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引用次数: 0
Triangulation proves Geum brocade with the horizontal loom of Gojoseon Gojosen水平织机三角剖分Geum织锦
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2022-09-25 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-022-00309-5
Jisu Kim, Young-Joo Na

Geum (錦, Jin) is a jacquard brocade silk fabric (or doubled~tripled woven) with multi-colored warps. Because patterns are shown by colored yarns of overlapping warp layers, it is dense and stiff, making bulky silhouette of layerlook suitable in cool or dry weather. This fabric is completely different from the drape and lightweight low-density plain weave of ‘China silk’. KyungGeum (經錦, warp direction color yarns) requires a high level of weaving technology, different from WiGeum(緯錦, weft direction color yarns). Geums excavated in Louran and Niya of Xinjiang Autonomous Region, Astana, Pazyrik and Noin-Ula have the pattern of animal flock style of Northern people. The purpose of this study is to find out who wove these Geum fabrics by the triangulation of literatures, relics and loom technology. The pattern was quite complex, so a horizontal and rectangular type of loom or a special loom ‘JeHwa-Ru(製華樓)’ were required. Since the ‘Warring States Period(戰國時代)’ of China, all Han (漢) looms were oblique looms with one heald and KyungGeum production was impossible with these looms. The same is true for vertical looms in Central Asia. Also, the Odes(詩經) and the Shujing(書經) told that barbarian and bandits had weaved KyungGeum. Geum as the special products of Goguryeo and Silla it was exported to China and Japan. Therefore it is reasonable to regard the KyungGeum relics of Niya and of Louran as those from Gojoseon, Goguryeo, Silla(Seres) of Korea, as a result of comprehensive examining the year of production, historical documents, pattern symbolism and loom types.

锦是一种多色经线的提花锦丝织物(或两倍~三倍编织)。因为图案是由重叠经纱层的彩色纱线显示的,它是致密和坚硬的,使层的粗大轮廓看起来适合在凉爽或干燥的天气。这种织物完全不同于“中国丝绸”的垂坠和轻质低密度平纹织物。京锦(经向色线)不同于京锦(纬向色线),对织造工艺的要求较高。新疆娄然、尼雅、阿斯塔纳、巴济日克、努因乌拉等地出土的金雕具有北方人畜群风格的纹样。本研究旨在透过文献、文物与织机技术的三角分析,找出这些锦布的织者。由于图案非常复杂,所以需要一种卧式和长方形的织机,或者一种特殊的“织布机”。自中国的“战国”以来,所有的汉织机都是斜向织机,只有一个综,用这些织机不可能生产景锦。中亚的立式织机也是如此。此外,《诗经》和《书经》都说,蛮族和土匪编织了京锦。琴是高句丽和新罗的特产,曾出口到中国和日本。因此,从生产年份、历史文献、图案象征、织机种类等方面综合分析,可以认为尼雅和楼兰的景今文物是古朝鲜、高句丽、新罗(新罗)的景今文物。
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引用次数: 1
UV protection effect of cotton dyed with Flos Sophorae (Sophora Japonica L.) extracted with acid hydrolysis 酸性水解提取的槐花染色棉的紫外线防护效果
IF 2.4 4区 管理学 Q1 MATERIALS SCIENCE, TEXTILES Pub Date : 2022-09-15 DOI: 10.1186/s40691-022-00304-w
Lkhagva Narantuya, Cheunsoon Ahn

Flos Sophorae extract was hydrolyzed using a mixed solution of methanol, HCl, and water to convert rutin to quercetin for the purpose of enhancing the UV protective effect of dyed cotton. Relative yield (%) of quercetin in the hydrolyzed extract was determined by the percent ratio of the absorbance of untreated Flos Sophorae extract at 359 nm to the absorbance of hydrolyzed extract at 370–371 nm. Quercetin yield was 93.09% when 1 M HCl was applied and 52.03% when 0.5 M HCl was applied, both with 60 min reaction time. The latter was applied in dyeing cotton with the dyebath containing hydrolyzed Flos Sophorae extract and water by 50:50 or 75:25 ratio. By dyeing with hydrolyzed Flos Sophorae extract the UPF value of cotton was enhanced to 13.80 indicating 92.76% blockage of the UV rays as opposed to 84.78% blockage by the same fabric without Flos Sophorae dyeing. The present method could produce a light-weight summer cotton with yellow color which could provide a moderate UV protection for daily summer attire.

采用甲醇、盐酸和水的混合溶液对槐花提取物进行水解,将芦丁转化为槲皮素,以增强染色棉的防紫外线效果。槲皮素的相对得率(%)由未处理的槐花提取物在359nm处的吸光度与370 ~ 371nm处的吸光度之比确定。在反应时间为60 min的条件下,1 M HCl的槲皮素得率为93.09%,0.5 M HCl的槲皮素得率为52.03%。将槐花水解液与水按50:50或75:25的比例进行染色。经槐花水解提取物染色后,棉织物的UPF值提高到13.80,对紫外线的阻隔率为92.76%,而未经槐花染色的棉织物对紫外线的阻隔率为84.78%。本方法可以生产出一种重量轻,颜色为黄色的夏季棉,可以为日常夏装提供适度的紫外线防护。
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引用次数: 1
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