Pub Date : 2018-01-02DOI: 10.1080/20511817.2018.1439442
Peter Oakley
Peter Oakley is a Senior Research Tutor at the Royal College of Art, London. His research interests include the social identities of prestige materials and luxury goods, the development and impact of ethical and sustainable material sourcing programs, contemporary uses of traditional craft techniques, and the introduction and exploitation of innovative manufacturing processes. peter.oakley@rca.ac.uk BOOK REVIEW
Peter Oakley是伦敦皇家艺术学院的高级研究导师。他的研究兴趣包括名牌材料和奢侈品的社会身份，道德和可持续材料采购计划的发展和影响，传统工艺技术的当代应用，以及创新制造工艺的引入和开发。peter.oakley@rca.ac.uk书评
{"title":"L’Invention du Luxe: histoire de l’industrie horlogère à Genève de 1815 à nos jours","authors":"Peter Oakley","doi":"10.1080/20511817.2018.1439442","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511817.2018.1439442","url":null,"abstract":"Peter Oakley is a Senior Research Tutor at the Royal College of Art, London. His research interests include the social identities of prestige materials and luxury goods, the development and impact of ethical and sustainable material sourcing programs, contemporary uses of traditional craft techniques, and the introduction and exploitation of innovative manufacturing processes. peter.oakley@rca.ac.uk BOOK REVIEW","PeriodicalId":55901,"journal":{"name":"Luxury-History Culture Consumption","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2018-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/20511817.2018.1439442","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"60020726","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2018-01-02DOI: 10.1080/20511817.2018.1430885
M. Sanger
Abstract It is debated whether or not the “luxury” of a luxury object is contained within the object or exists beyond it. This text examines one object – a Neoprene little black dress by Givenchy – in the context of its references backwards and forwards. Using Webb Keane’s semiotic-temporal alignment, the dress’s past is analyzed as iconic and nostalgic through Walter Benjamin, and its future as symbolic and ironic through Donna Haraway. Theories of object agency are considered through W.J.T. Mitchell and as between life and death. Luxury, finally, as abundance or indulgence is taken on as a method of inquiry.
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Pub Date : 2018-01-02DOI: 10.1080/20511817.2018.1439201
D. Laing
Jessica P. Clark is an assistant professor of history at Brock University. Her research focuses on the history of gender and consumption, empire, beauty, and appearance in the modern British world. Her work has appeared in publications including the Women’s History Review, History Compass, and Gender and Material Culture in Britain after 1600 (Palgrave 2015). She is the editor of the fifth volume of Bloomsbury’s Cultural History of Beauty (forthcoming) and is currently completing a manuscript on Britain’s nineteenth-century beauty and grooming industries. jclark3@brocku.ca
杰西卡·克拉克(Jessica P. Clark)是布鲁克大学历史学助理教授。她的研究重点是现代英国世界的性别和消费、帝国、美和外表的历史。她的作品发表在《女性历史评论》、《历史指南》和《1600年后英国的性别与物质文化》(Palgrave 2015)等出版物上。她是布鲁姆斯伯里文化史的第五卷的编辑(即将出版)，目前正在完成一份关于英国19世纪美容和美容行业的手稿。jclark3@brocku.ca
{"title":"Nouveau Reach: An e-Interview","authors":"D. Laing","doi":"10.1080/20511817.2018.1439201","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511817.2018.1439201","url":null,"abstract":"Jessica P. Clark is an assistant professor of history at Brock University. Her research focuses on the history of gender and consumption, empire, beauty, and appearance in the modern British world. Her work has appeared in publications including the Women’s History Review, History Compass, and Gender and Material Culture in Britain after 1600 (Palgrave 2015). She is the editor of the fifth volume of Bloomsbury’s Cultural History of Beauty (forthcoming) and is currently completing a manuscript on Britain’s nineteenth-century beauty and grooming industries. jclark3@brocku.ca","PeriodicalId":55901,"journal":{"name":"Luxury-History Culture Consumption","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2018-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/20511817.2018.1439201","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"49008870","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2017-09-02DOI: 10.1080/20511817.2017.1352220
R. Clark
Abstract Europe 1600–1815 was the biggest gallery project of FuturePlan Phase II at the Victoria and Albert Museum (V&A), with a budget of £12.5 million and 1500 square metres of display space. This article describes some of the steps involved in commissioning the design of these galleries, revealing how the objective of harmonizing setting, display, narrative and interpretation has been achieved.
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Pub Date : 2017-09-02DOI: 10.1080/20511817.2017.1352228
Charlotte Hubbard
Charlotte Hubbard is Head of Sculpture Conservation at the Victoria and Albert Museum. She has conserved a wide range of European and Asian sculpture, and has a specific interest in terracotta sculpture. She has been the Lead Conservator for the Medieval and Renaissance Galleries (opened 2009), Europe 1600-1815 Galleries (opened 2015), and for the Cast Courts (re-opening 2018). Chubbard@vam.ac.uk Gilded relief panel of Cosimo II de’Medici
Charlotte Hubbard是维多利亚和阿尔伯特博物馆雕塑保护负责人。她保存了大量的欧洲和亚洲雕塑，并对赤陶雕塑特别感兴趣。她曾担任中世纪和文艺复兴美术馆（2009年开放）、欧洲1600-1815美术馆（2015年开放）和铸造法院（2018年重新开放）的首席保育员。Chubbard@vam.ac.uk科西莫二世·德·美第奇镀金浮雕板
{"title":"Gilded relief panel of Cosimo II de’Medici","authors":"Charlotte Hubbard","doi":"10.1080/20511817.2017.1352228","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511817.2017.1352228","url":null,"abstract":"Charlotte Hubbard is Head of Sculpture Conservation at the Victoria and Albert Museum. She has conserved a wide range of European and Asian sculpture, and has a specific interest in terracotta sculpture. She has been the Lead Conservator for the Medieval and Renaissance Galleries (opened 2009), Europe 1600-1815 Galleries (opened 2015), and for the Cast Courts (re-opening 2018). Chubbard@vam.ac.uk Gilded relief panel of Cosimo II de’Medici","PeriodicalId":55901,"journal":{"name":"Luxury-History Culture Consumption","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2017-09-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/20511817.2017.1352228","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43683637","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2017-09-02DOI: 10.1080/20511817.2017.1351857
N. Langford
Abstract In The Cabinet, the gallery devoted to seventeenth-century collecting, a table with a cast bronze top with three small cases stands under the window. It unites activities with museum displays, encouraging visitors to explore the gallery narrative and themes through hands-on investigation. This article discusses the thinking behind and commissioning of this activity table which was conceived with one of the project’s target audiences in mind – family groups.
{"title":"The Making of the Cabinet Part II: Activity Table","authors":"N. Langford","doi":"10.1080/20511817.2017.1351857","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511817.2017.1351857","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract In The Cabinet, the gallery devoted to seventeenth-century collecting, a table with a cast bronze top with three small cases stands under the window. It unites activities with museum displays, encouraging visitors to explore the gallery narrative and themes through hands-on investigation. This article discusses the thinking behind and commissioning of this activity table which was conceived with one of the project’s target audiences in mind – family groups.","PeriodicalId":55901,"journal":{"name":"Luxury-History Culture Consumption","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2017-09-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/20511817.2017.1351857","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"49503989","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2017-09-02DOI: 10.1080/20511817.2017.1352230
Joanna Norman
Abstract Historical interiors, often known as period rooms, are included in the Europe 1600–1815 Galleries on the basis of the rooms’ quality as individual objects of art and design, their importance in providing a sense of architecture and scale, their role in enabling a change of pace and atmosphere and their great popularity with visitors. They are hugely problematic museum objects, for both practical and conceptual reasons, and they presented numerous challenges in terms of research, conservation and display. This article reveals the thinking behind the presentation of one particular room – the bedchamber from La Tournerie, a late seventeenth-century country house in north west France.
{"title":"Understanding and Interpreting La Tournerie","authors":"Joanna Norman","doi":"10.1080/20511817.2017.1352230","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511817.2017.1352230","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Historical interiors, often known as period rooms, are included in the Europe 1600–1815 Galleries on the basis of the rooms’ quality as individual objects of art and design, their importance in providing a sense of architecture and scale, their role in enabling a change of pace and atmosphere and their great popularity with visitors. They are hugely problematic museum objects, for both practical and conceptual reasons, and they presented numerous challenges in terms of research, conservation and display. This article reveals the thinking behind the presentation of one particular room – the bedchamber from La Tournerie, a late seventeenth-century country house in north west France.","PeriodicalId":55901,"journal":{"name":"Luxury-History Culture Consumption","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2017-09-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/20511817.2017.1352230","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47189909","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2017-09-02DOI: 10.1080/20511817.2017.1351856
Lesley Ellis Miller
{"title":"In Fashion: Two Banyans and a Suit","authors":"Lesley Ellis Miller","doi":"10.1080/20511817.2017.1351856","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/20511817.2017.1351856","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":55901,"journal":{"name":"Luxury-History Culture Consumption","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2017-09-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/20511817.2017.1351856","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"60020714","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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