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Luxury-History Culture Consumption最新文献

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"Some of my Customers […] Take off Their Rolex Prior to a Client Meeting" Luxury Display at Work and the Social (Re)Construction of the Organizational Image “我的一些客户[…]在客户见面前脱下劳力士”工作中的奢华展示与组织形象的社会(重建)
IF 0.2 Pub Date : 2022-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/20511817.2022.2045544
Mario D. Schultz, Peter Seele
Abstract In this study, we follow-up on the social construction of an organizational image focusing on the role of luxury watches worn at work. In this way, we discuss the crucial role of employees' aesthetic appearance as a projector of organizational values to internal and external audiences. Drawing on the theoretical lenses of gestalt theory and the literature on aesthetics of labour, we examine the dynamics of luxury display in organizational settings via a qualitative approach, a netnography based on 193 topical entries. The netnography was guided by a pre-study conducting interviews with high level experts from the luxury watch industry. Our findings show that the display of a luxury watch at work can contribute to a harmonious organizational image. However, professional settings exist where the watch triggers an inconsistency in an employee's appearance relative to the organization that is being represented. Thus, disturbing the overall organizational image. Adopting a gestalt theoretical perspective to this social construction process, we define the "organizational gestalt": as a dynamic projection of organizational values informed and conveyed by aesthetic, organizational representations (in this study: employees' wristwatches). We theorize that a gestalt-switch – a conversion of a previously stable organizational image – occurs when an employee's appearance projects values that conflict with the established aesthetic, organizational representations. As a consequence, the authenticity and credibility of the employee and the organization may suffer.
在本研究中,我们以奢侈手表在工作中的作用为重点,对组织形象的社会建构进行了后续研究。通过这种方式,我们讨论了员工的审美外观作为组织价值观的投影仪对内部和外部观众的关键作用。利用格式塔理论和劳动美学文献的理论透镜,我们通过一种定性方法,一种基于193个主题条目的网络图,研究了组织环境中奢侈品展示的动态。网络研究是在对奢侈手表行业高级专家进行访谈的预研究的指导下进行的。我们的研究结果表明,在工作中展示奢侈手表有助于营造和谐的组织形象。然而,在专业设置中,手表会导致员工的外表与所代表的组织不一致。因此,扰乱了整个组织形象。采用完形理论的视角来看待这一社会建构过程,我们将“组织完形”定义为:通过审美、组织表征(在本研究中:员工的手表)告知和传达的组织价值的动态投影。我们的理论是,当员工的外表投射出的价值与既定的美学、组织表征相冲突时,格式塔转换——先前稳定的组织形象的转换——就会发生。因此,员工和组织的真实性和可信度可能会受到影响。
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引用次数: 1
Mediated Enjoyment- Representations of Luxury in the Web Discourse of Lifestyle Magazines 媒介享受——奢侈品在生活方式杂志网络话语中的表现
IF 0.2 Pub Date : 2022-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/20511817.2022.2045545
Samuel André Alves Mateus
Abstract Luxury is a 913BE global industry spanning multiple categories according to the Boston Consulting Group, and it represents a major market worldwide, one that has registered a tremendous growth in the last decade. Brands have developed a significant presence in the digital space and consumers have, indeed, augmented their purchases in the online environment. Even though there are a few studies about luxury in media and magazines there seems to be an absence of luxury studies on online magazines. More important, the examination of discursive representations of luxury in the online media has not, until now, deserved much attention. This paper explores the discursive construction and representations of luxury on the top 5 web magazines on luxury lifestyle. It concludes that Leisure, Hedonism, Carpe Diem, Singularity, Escape and Magnificence form the pentactic axis from which web magazines audiences take part in luxury discourse. By exposing this discursive pentactic construct, as well as by uncovering luxury web magazines social-cultural practices, linguistic, visual and strategic discursive principles, this investigation sheds light into the discursive mechanisms through which web magazines luxury discourse occurs. At the same time, the paper found that web magazines portrait luxury standing between two opposing poles: on one hand, luxury discourse is associated with the display of social status; on other hand, it is linked with personal gratification in a clear alignment with postmodern principles of Individualism, Hedonism and Indulgence.
据波士顿咨询公司(Boston Consulting Group)称,奢侈品是一个涵盖多个类别的913BE全球产业,它代表着一个全球主要市场,在过去十年中取得了巨大的增长。品牌已经在数字空间中占据了重要地位,消费者也确实增加了他们在网络环境中的购买。虽然在媒体和杂志上有一些关于奢侈品的研究,但似乎缺乏对在线杂志的奢侈品研究。更重要的是,直到现在,对在线媒体中奢侈品话语表征的研究还没有得到太多关注。本文探讨了奢侈品生活方式类网络杂志排名前五的话语建构与表征。结果表明,休闲、享乐主义、及时行乐、奇点、逃避和华丽构成了网络杂志受众参与奢侈品话语的五轴关系。通过揭示这一话语五层结构,揭示奢侈品网络杂志的社会文化实践、语言、视觉和战略话语原则,揭示网络杂志奢侈品话语发生的话语机制。同时,本文发现网络杂志对奢侈品的刻画站在两个对立的两极之间:一方面,奢侈品话语与社会地位的展示有关;另一方面,它与个人满足联系在一起,与后现代的个人主义、享乐主义和放纵原则明显一致。
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引用次数: 1
An Ueber to take your Brand to the next level Ueber将您的品牌提升到一个新的水平
IF 0.2 Pub Date : 2022-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/20511817.2022.2095480
Pablo D. Lopez Zadicoff, J. Kuehlwein
In this conversation with J.P. Kuehlwein, we discuss the ethos of the Ueber-Brands TM , and we preview the 6-step method the author develops in his new book Brand Elevation to take any brand to this mythological plane . Ueber-Brands TM the term coined
在与J.P.Kuehlwein的对话中,我们讨论了Ueber Brands TM的精神,并预览了作者在新书《品牌提升》中提出的将任何品牌带到这个神话层面的六步方法。Ueber Brands TM这个词
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引用次数: 0
Luxury, Voluptuousity, Levinas: on Jan Steen and Giovanni Segantini 奢华,性感,列维纳斯:简·斯蒂恩和乔瓦尼·塞甘蒂尼
IF 0.2 Pub Date : 2022-01-02 DOI: 10.1080/20511817.2022.2117665
J. Armitage
Abstract This article deals with the concepts of luxury and voluptuousity, the abundant and the sensual, and their position in the history of art, for luxury and voluptuosity are rarely mentioned in single works of art by name. The article is an encounter with the history of art, particularly as it is manifested in two paintings that do at least reference luxury, the Golden Age Dutch artist Jan Steen’s Beware of Luxury (1633), and the Symbolist stateless artist Giovanni Segantini’s The Punishment of Luxury (1891). To understand Steen’s and Segantini’s conceptions of luxury and voluptuosity, and thus to build a foundation for an interpretation of their most important ideas regarding profligate and often exaggerated subjects and objects, it is argued that researchers can usefully explore Steen’s and Segantini’s engagement with luxury and voluptuousity from the perspective of French philosopher Emmanuel Levinas’ phenomenological explanations of art, knowledge, and ontology where these two concepts are appreciated not as aesthetic categories but as aspects of desire and happiness, need, the untouchable in human contact, and as the future in the present. Deliberating the wider philosophical implications of why luxury and voluptuosity are not continually invoked by artists and writers on art history, the article emphasizes their significance for contemporary American artists such as Jeff Koons and for contemporary art history whilst concluding that, whereas Levinas’ theorizations and interpretations of the relationship between luxury and voluptuousity are intellectually stimulating, they are also problematic because, it is suggested, luxury and voluptuousity are a continuum.
摘要本文论述了奢侈与淫荡、丰盛与感官的概念,以及它们在艺术史上的地位,因为奢侈与淫荡在单个艺术作品中很少被提及。这篇文章是一次与艺术史的相遇,尤其是在两幅至少与奢侈品有关的画作中,黄金时代的荷兰艺术家Jan Steen的《当心奢侈品》(1633)和象征主义无国家艺术家Giovanni Segantini的《奢侈的惩罚》(1891)。为了理解Steen和Segantini关于奢侈和淫荡的概念,从而为解释他们关于挥霍和经常被夸大的主体和客体的最重要的思想奠定基础,研究者认为可以从法国哲学家Emmanuel Levinas对艺术、知识、艺术和艺术的现象学解释的角度来探索Steen和Segantini对奢侈和淫荡的参与。在本体论中,这两个概念不是作为美学范畴来欣赏而是作为欲望和幸福,需要,人类接触中不可触及的东西,以及现在的未来。考虑到为什么奢侈和淫荡没有被艺术史上的艺术家和作家不断引用这一更广泛的哲学含义,文章强调了它们对当代美国艺术家的意义,如杰夫·昆斯和当代艺术史,同时得出结论,尽管列维纳斯对奢侈和淫荡之间关系的理论和解释在理智上是刺激的,但它们也有问题,因为,有人认为,奢侈和性感是一个连续体。
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引用次数: 1
Democratic luxury: An oxymoron? 民主奢侈:矛盾修饰法?
IF 0.2 Pub Date : 2022-01-01 DOI: 10.1386/ipol_00003_1
Christopher J. Berry
The expression the ‘democratization of luxury’ has become commonplace and as such its meaning is rarely, if ever, investigated. I acknowledge that its very commonplaceness would seem to demonstrate that it is a mere façon de parler to which too much weight should not be given. Nonetheless, I believe that an investigation of the assumptions that underlie the phrase, and the phenomenon it seemingly captures, is potentially worthwhile, as evidenced by the fact that its usage is not uniform, being subject to both negative and neutral interpretations. This brief article is also a gesture towards my making-amends for my own passing, non-inquisitive casual second-hand use of the term. Finally, I advert briefly to its bearing on my own conceptual analysis.
“奢侈品民主化”这个表达已经变得司空见惯,因此它的含义很少被调查,如果有的话。我承认,它的普遍性似乎表明,它仅仅是一种不应给予过多重视的相对公平。尽管如此,我认为对这句话背后的假设以及它似乎捕捉到的现象进行调查是有潜在价值的,因为它的用法并不统一,有消极和中立的解释。这篇简短的文章也是我对自己过去的一种姿态,我对这个词的无好奇心的随意使用进行了弥补。最后,我简要地说明它与我自己的概念分析的关系。
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引用次数: 1
Luxury industry as a pioneer for sustainability through improved communication: A consumer perspective 奢侈品行业作为可持续发展的先驱,通过改进沟通:消费者的观点
IF 0.2 Pub Date : 2022-01-01 DOI: 10.1386/ipol_00004_1
Preethi Rajaprakasam
Sustainability has become a pervasive issue for luxury businesses ever since the tendency towards mass luxury production. In this context, the emerging middle class from the Global South positions itself as the target consumers for the current landscape. The purpose of this article is to examine how luxury brand marketers can balance sustainability measures and communications while maintaining their exclusivity in this evolving market. Prior research suggests that consumers do not regard luxury and sustainability as compatible, whilst the concept of ‘sustainable luxury’ is gaining attention among researchers and businesses. This article explores how this apparent contradiction, or even paradox, can be negotiated to implement sustainable luxury in practice. Existing research has highlighted the growing yet fragmented evidence on the new wave of consumers from the Global South, in particular India and Latin America. Twenty-one semi-structured interviews were conducted with the Indian middle class followed by a thematic analysis. This article looked into three major aspects: (1) the existing knowledge on luxury‐sustainability relationship, (2) the existence of an attitude‐behaviour gap, and (3) the benefits of improved communication from businesses to consumers. A new consumer perspective emerged from the study, which can be added to existing literature, namely a positive correlation (rather than an inherent contradiction) between the two concepts of ‘luxury’ and ‘sustainability’. This can make the luxury industry a pioneer for sustainability through improved, nuanced communication. The positive correlation was based on consumers’ belief in buying a certain package when purchasing a luxury product that includes sustainability as a highly desirable inherent trait due to its high price and nature of the concept. The findings further highlight a shift in consumers’ mind that demands improved communication in the form of grounded measures and two-way dialogue to tackle lack of transparency and trust on the industry. Increased communication is identified to be a positive influence on consumer purchase decisions if convincing forms of communication are included. By adding a second viewpoint, this article is seen as bridging the gap between the scholarly perspective of convergence (sustainable luxury) and the consumer perspective of controversy (contradiction). The discussion elaborates on what it means for theory and practice, and some pragmatic recommendations are made in the conclusion. This future is mainly based on communication, which helps to break down the luxury‐sustainability contradiction and the existing attitude‐behaviour gap.
自大规模奢侈品生产的趋势以来,可持续性已成为奢侈品企业普遍关注的问题。在这种背景下,来自全球南方的新兴中产阶级将自己定位为当前格局的目标消费者。本文的目的是研究奢侈品牌营销人员如何平衡可持续性措施和沟通,同时在这个不断发展的市场中保持其独特性。先前的研究表明,消费者并不认为奢侈品和可持续性是相容的,而“可持续奢侈品”的概念正在受到研究人员和企业的关注。本文探讨了这种明显的矛盾,甚至是悖论,如何在实践中实现可持续的奢侈品。现有的研究表明,越来越多但零碎的证据表明,来自全球南方(尤其是印度和拉丁美洲)的新一波消费者正在崛起。对印度中产阶级进行了21次半结构化访谈,然后进行了主题分析。本文研究了三个主要方面:(1)关于奢侈品与可持续性关系的现有知识,(2)态度与行为差距的存在,以及(3)改善企业与消费者沟通的好处。从这项研究中出现了一个新的消费者视角,可以添加到现有的文献中,即“奢侈品”和“可持续性”这两个概念之间的正相关(而不是内在矛盾)。通过改进、细致的沟通,这可以使奢侈品行业成为可持续发展的先驱。正相关是基于消费者在购买奢侈品时购买某种包装的信念,其中包括可持续性作为一种非常理想的固有特征,因为它的高价格和概念的性质。调查结果进一步突显了消费者观念的转变,这需要通过切实可行的措施和双向对话来改善沟通,以解决行业缺乏透明度和信任的问题。如果包括令人信服的沟通形式,增加的沟通被确定为对消费者购买决策的积极影响。通过增加第二个观点,这篇文章被视为弥合了学术观点的趋同(可持续奢侈品)和消费者观点的争议(矛盾)之间的差距。讨论了其理论意义和实践意义,并在结论部分提出了一些实用的建议。这个未来主要基于沟通,这有助于打破奢侈品-可持续性的矛盾和现有的态度-行为差距。
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引用次数: 0
Can luxury perform miracles? 奢侈品能创造奇迹吗?
IF 0.2 Pub Date : 2022-01-01 DOI: 10.1386/ipol_00002_2
P. Mathieu
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引用次数: 0
Craftsmanship: Interview with Roger W. Smith, horologist 工艺:采访钟表师罗杰·w·史密斯
IF 0.2 Pub Date : 2022-01-01 DOI: 10.1386/ipol_00006_7
Shaun Borstrock
In contemporary terms, luxury has come to mean many things to many people. It is no longer commonly defined within the confines of true meaning and understanding of skill, craftsmanship, heritage and provenance. Materials do not necessarily have to be the best; the maker no longer needs to have an understanding of the full process of manufacture; they can be skilled in one operation thus removing them from the ‘heart’ of the product. In this interview with master horologist Roger W. Smith, we explore the true meaning of craftsmanship from a mastercraftsman, one of the few people in the world who can make a watch from start to finish. For a master horologist like Roger W. Smith, the fundamental definition of luxury is unchanging.
在当代,奢侈品对很多人来说意味着很多东西。它不再被普遍定义在真正的意义和对技能、工艺、遗产和来源的理解范围内。材料不一定是最好的;制造商不再需要了解制造的整个过程;他们可以熟练地进行一次操作,从而将它们从产品的“心脏”中移除。在这次对钟表大师Roger W. Smith的采访中,我们将从这位世界上为数不多的能够从头到尾制作腕表的匠人身上探索工艺的真谛。对于像罗杰·w·史密斯这样的钟表大师来说,奢侈品的基本定义是不变的。
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引用次数: 0
Exploring disrupting scenarios in the fashion retail and communication paradigms 探索时尚零售和传播范式中的颠覆性场景
IF 0.2 Pub Date : 2022-01-01 DOI: 10.1386/ipol_00005_1
V. Iannilli, Vittorio Linfante
The growing complexity in the economic sphere, the accelerating rate of change, the new information technology and the globalization of cultural processes create a new landscape. The new tech habits are reshaping customer behaviours and businesses. Contaminations, hybridizations and negotiations increasingly characterize today’s retail landscape. The future of retail is connected to how well brands adapt and take advantage of digital change. Within this framework, the fashion system can catch the opportunity to reflect and redesign the entire production and cultural system. Today, the shopping experience is realized thanks to multiform sensory and informational solicitations and the different distribution and communication channels, both physical and digital, defining new needs, strategies, technologies and even new aesthetic forms. In this renewed context, retail becomes increasingly relevant both in its physical and digital form and above all in the ‘phygital’ one, between virtual and real. A form that creates new sales space through the creation of experiences and interactions between the physical space and the intangibility of the digital world: from the multichannel, we move towards increasingly integrated strategies that use omnichannel sales and communication methods. In this context, new paradigms and new retail concepts emerge, bridging communication and distribution. Communication actions that are increasingly transversal, enriched with new languages and tools capable of reverberating the aura of fashion through the creation of real cultural palimpsests such as the Dior Talks and Possible Conversations by Prada, the Alexander McQueen Floral Challenge or the Trivia by Salvatore Ferragamo. Projects between communication, art and marketing that redefine the fashion point of view on the relationship between real and digital; as well as the Sunnei Canvas project that uses 3D design tools both for the development of the collection and for the creation of animated avatars that will guide the final translation of the brand’s lexicon.
经济领域日益复杂,变化速度加快,新的信息技术和文化进程的全球化创造了一个新的景观。新的科技习惯正在重塑客户行为和企业。污染、杂交和谈判日益成为当今零售格局的特征。零售的未来取决于品牌如何适应和利用数字化变革。在这个框架下,时尚系统可以抓住机会反思和重新设计整个生产和文化系统。今天,购物体验的实现要归功于多种形式的感官和信息征集,以及不同的分销和沟通渠道,包括物理和数字,定义了新的需求、战略、技术甚至新的审美形式。在这种新的背景下,零售在其实体和数字形式,尤其是在虚拟和现实之间的“虚拟”形式中变得越来越重要。一种通过创造物理空间和数字世界的无形空间之间的体验和互动来创造新的销售空间的形式:从多渠道,我们走向使用全渠道销售和沟通方法的日益整合的战略。在这种背景下,新的模式和新的零售概念出现了,架起了沟通和分销的桥梁。传播行为越来越横向,通过创造真正的文化重述,如普拉达的迪奥对话和可能的对话,亚历山大麦昆花卉挑战或Salvatore Ferragamo的Trivia,新的语言和工具丰富了能够回响时尚光环的传播行为。传播、艺术和营销之间的项目,重新定义了现实与数字之间关系的时尚观点;以及Sunnei Canvas项目,该项目使用3D设计工具来开发该系列和创建动画化身,这些动画化身将指导该品牌词典的最终翻译。
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引用次数: 0
Sustainable Luxury and Jewelry, Ivan Coste-Manière and Miguel Ángel Gardetti (eds) (2021) 可持续奢侈品与珠宝,Ivan coste - maniires和Miguel Ángel Gardetti(编)(2021)
IF 0.2 Pub Date : 2022-01-01 DOI: 10.1386/ipol_00007_5
Ken Kweku Nimo
Review of: Sustainable Luxury and Jewelry, Ivan Coste-Manière and Miguel Ángel Gardetti (eds) (2021)Singapore: Springer, 229 pp.,ISBN 978-9-81162-454-4, e-book, £87.50
Review of: Sustainable Luxury and Jewelry, Ivan coste - maniires and Miguel Ángel Gardetti(编)(2021)新加坡:Springer出版社,229 pp.,ISBN 978-9-81162-454-4,电子书,£87.50
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引用次数: 0
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Luxury-History Culture Consumption
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