Pub Date : 2022-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2022.22.2.99
Sarah Fouts
{"title":"Review: A Recipe for Gentrification: Food, Power, and Resistance in the City, edited by Alison Hope Alkon, Yuki Kato, and Joshua Sbicca","authors":"Sarah Fouts","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2022.22.2.99","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2022.22.2.99","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67152601","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2022.22.2.64
E. L. Hayes, Norah A. MacKendrick
African American foodways have historically shared many of the same imperatives prized by writers, experts, and pundits concerned with making food systems more sustainable—namely, encouraging farm-to-table food distribution networks, using “natural” or low-impact agricultural methods, and inspiring scratch cooking with local, fresh ingredients. Contemporary writing about sustainable food and agriculture in the United States locates the origins of this movement in Europe and northern California. In this article, we challenge this conceptualization by presenting what we call the “food imaginaries” of three key historical figures: George Washington Carver, Fannie Lou Hamer, and Edna Lewis. These imaginaries not only reflect the knowledge constructions of a social group and map future possibilities through foodways but also challenge damaging narratives about African American food histories, particularly across the south. We find that these imaginaries envision food as a pathway to freedom, autonomy, pleasure, and joy, and tell greater stories of how “organic” and “natural” falters when imagined outside of Blackness. These imaginaries, we argue, are central to American agricultural and political histories, and have important implications for sustainability and food justice movements in the United States.
{"title":"“Leave No Stone Unturned”","authors":"E. L. Hayes, Norah A. MacKendrick","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2022.22.2.64","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2022.22.2.64","url":null,"abstract":"African American foodways have historically shared many of the same imperatives prized by writers, experts, and pundits concerned with making food systems more sustainable—namely, encouraging farm-to-table food distribution networks, using “natural” or low-impact agricultural methods, and inspiring scratch cooking with local, fresh ingredients. Contemporary writing about sustainable food and agriculture in the United States locates the origins of this movement in Europe and northern California. In this article, we challenge this conceptualization by presenting what we call the “food imaginaries” of three key historical figures: George Washington Carver, Fannie Lou Hamer, and Edna Lewis. These imaginaries not only reflect the knowledge constructions of a social group and map future possibilities through foodways but also challenge damaging narratives about African American food histories, particularly across the south. We find that these imaginaries envision food as a pathway to freedom, autonomy, pleasure, and joy, and tell greater stories of how “organic” and “natural” falters when imagined outside of Blackness. These imaginaries, we argue, are central to American agricultural and political histories, and have important implications for sustainability and food justice movements in the United States.","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67152778","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2022.22.4.106
J. Fine
{"title":"Review: Imperial Wine: How the British Empire Made Wine’s New World, by Jennifer Regan-Lefebvre","authors":"J. Fine","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2022.22.4.106","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2022.22.4.106","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67153542","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2022.22.4.107
Kashyapi Ghosh
{"title":"Review: A Taste of My Life: A Memoir in Essays and Recipes, by Chitrita Banerji","authors":"Kashyapi Ghosh","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2022.22.4.107","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2022.22.4.107","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67153583","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2022.22.4.26
Holly Brause
Chile is an essential component of New Mexico’s cuisine and is an economically important heritage crop. Despite its popularity, commercial New Mexico chile producers struggle to remain competitive in globalized markets. Geographical indication labels and branding, both based on claims of New Mexico’s unique terroir, are used to distinguish the product in the global marketplace and add value. Chile production, however, is increasingly also threatened by issues of water scarcity exacerbated by climate change. This article uses ethnographic data collected between 2014 and 2022 to examine strategies for securing a viable chile industry in a changing landscape of production. I discuss the benefits and drawbacks of fallowing, efficient irrigation systems, and the creation of new chile varieties to confront water scarcity and their potential effects on the quantity and quality of chile grown in the region. I show that both water scarcity and our adaptations to water scarcity, though necessary to confront water-scarce futures, could undermine claims of terroir that distinguish the product in the global marketplace.
{"title":"The Uncertain Future of New Mexico Chile","authors":"Holly Brause","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2022.22.4.26","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2022.22.4.26","url":null,"abstract":"Chile is an essential component of New Mexico’s cuisine and is an economically important heritage crop. Despite its popularity, commercial New Mexico chile producers struggle to remain competitive in globalized markets. Geographical indication labels and branding, both based on claims of New Mexico’s unique terroir, are used to distinguish the product in the global marketplace and add value. Chile production, however, is increasingly also threatened by issues of water scarcity exacerbated by climate change. This article uses ethnographic data collected between 2014 and 2022 to examine strategies for securing a viable chile industry in a changing landscape of production. I discuss the benefits and drawbacks of fallowing, efficient irrigation systems, and the creation of new chile varieties to confront water scarcity and their potential effects on the quantity and quality of chile grown in the region. I show that both water scarcity and our adaptations to water scarcity, though necessary to confront water-scarce futures, could undermine claims of terroir that distinguish the product in the global marketplace.","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67153606","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2022.22.4.37
James Edward Malin
From Hippocrates to Hannibal to the Perrier bottle on a French bistro’s table, drinking seltzer may be as widespread in Western culinary history as eating bread. However, seltzer has had different meanings for various cultures and eras. Today’s New York Ashkenazi Jews, for example, see seltzer as a food icon—a comestible metaphor for their own assimilation and success. (After all, seltzer is the “Jewish Champagne.”) Unlike most Jewish food icons, however, which have some connection to the old world, seltzer seems to have become Jewish suddenly in New York around the 1880s. This article explores thirst as a motivating factor for seltzer’s adoption into Ashkenazi heritage. In the absence of anything provably Judaic about the beverage, this article hypothesizes that seltzer was accessioned into the Jewish gastronomic pantheon by circumstance. New York’s abundant, aqueduct-fed water supply, although completed in the 1840s, was not often tapped by immigrant inhabitants of tenement buildings. Instead, for decades tenement dwellers were forced to make do with the city’s scarce, polluted, or simply undrinkable natural resources. Meanwhile, the city’s popular seltzer industry had begun to adjust, plying seltzer toward poorer masses. Around the time of the Jews’ diaspora, seltzer became the cheapest it had ever been. With seltzer now attainable for poor immigrants, the industry became an ad hoc water infrastructure, ascending into ubiquity among Jewish New Yorkers. Once Jews assimilated into the dominant American culture, seltzer, no longer needed for hydration, became an icon for the Jewish dichotomy of remembering historical strife whilst celebrating abundance.
{"title":"Give Us Seltzer, That We May Drink","authors":"James Edward Malin","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2022.22.4.37","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2022.22.4.37","url":null,"abstract":"From Hippocrates to Hannibal to the Perrier bottle on a French bistro’s table, drinking seltzer may be as widespread in Western culinary history as eating bread. However, seltzer has had different meanings for various cultures and eras. Today’s New York Ashkenazi Jews, for example, see seltzer as a food icon—a comestible metaphor for their own assimilation and success. (After all, seltzer is the “Jewish Champagne.”) Unlike most Jewish food icons, however, which have some connection to the old world, seltzer seems to have become Jewish suddenly in New York around the 1880s. This article explores thirst as a motivating factor for seltzer’s adoption into Ashkenazi heritage. In the absence of anything provably Judaic about the beverage, this article hypothesizes that seltzer was accessioned into the Jewish gastronomic pantheon by circumstance. New York’s abundant, aqueduct-fed water supply, although completed in the 1840s, was not often tapped by immigrant inhabitants of tenement buildings. Instead, for decades tenement dwellers were forced to make do with the city’s scarce, polluted, or simply undrinkable natural resources. Meanwhile, the city’s popular seltzer industry had begun to adjust, plying seltzer toward poorer masses. Around the time of the Jews’ diaspora, seltzer became the cheapest it had ever been. With seltzer now attainable for poor immigrants, the industry became an ad hoc water infrastructure, ascending into ubiquity among Jewish New Yorkers. Once Jews assimilated into the dominant American culture, seltzer, no longer needed for hydration, became an icon for the Jewish dichotomy of remembering historical strife whilst celebrating abundance.","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67153646","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2022.22.1.95
Eric Himmelfarb
{"title":"Review: Peach State, by Adrienne Su","authors":"Eric Himmelfarb","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2022.22.1.95","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2022.22.1.95","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67151650","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2022.22.3.49
M. Meduri
{"title":"Immigrant Birds","authors":"M. Meduri","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2022.22.3.49","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2022.22.3.49","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67152870","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2022.22.4.93
O. Pagani
{"title":"Mieux","authors":"O. Pagani","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2022.22.4.93","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2022.22.4.93","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67153345","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2022.22.4.83
Margaret Ann Snow
{"title":"How the Work Gets Done","authors":"Margaret Ann Snow","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2022.22.4.83","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2022.22.4.83","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"38 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67153774","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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