Pub Date : 2022-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2022.22.2.98
S. Figueroa
{"title":"Review: Table Lands: Food in Children’s Literature, by Kara K. Keeling and Scott T. Pollard","authors":"S. Figueroa","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2022.22.2.98","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2022.22.2.98","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67152517","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2022.22.2.43
J. Dueck
Food columnist Craig Claiborne wrote in 1988 that Mediterranean food had been named the “latest culinary trend,” noting the “flood” of restaurants, cookbooks, and even a diet book that were “riding the Mediterranean wave.” This so-called trend, the culinary Mediterranean that appeared in the American press of the 1970s, 1980s, and 1990s, was of course a constructed geography. One of the things that makes it intriguing today is what it can tell us about historically constructed categories of race, religion, and ethnicity that marked diverse Middle Eastern and North African peoples who made homes for themselves in the United States in the twentieth century. Representations of this newly popular, supposedly unitary, Mediterranean cuisine filtered into the press in ways that noticeably skewed away from the actual Mediterranean peoples who had originated it, and especially away from those Mediterraneans who were Muslim or Arab. To see how the Middle East and North Africa gradually became “Mediterranean” in the American press, I examine how journalists initially distinguished European Mediterranean foodways from what they saw as orientalist cuisines to the south and east. I then trace the growing popularity of these “exotic” cuisines as the boundaries of the Mediterranean expanded to absorb them into a seemingly postcolonial frame whose imperial and Eurocentric legacies nonetheless remained vividly in place. Finally, I point toward tactical choices made by some members of Middle Eastern and North African diasporas to make their voices and agendas heard in rendering their cuisines accessible, and saleable, to American consumers.
{"title":"Seeing Mediterranean","authors":"J. Dueck","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2022.22.2.43","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2022.22.2.43","url":null,"abstract":"Food columnist Craig Claiborne wrote in 1988 that Mediterranean food had been named the “latest culinary trend,” noting the “flood” of restaurants, cookbooks, and even a diet book that were “riding the Mediterranean wave.” This so-called trend, the culinary Mediterranean that appeared in the American press of the 1970s, 1980s, and 1990s, was of course a constructed geography. One of the things that makes it intriguing today is what it can tell us about historically constructed categories of race, religion, and ethnicity that marked diverse Middle Eastern and North African peoples who made homes for themselves in the United States in the twentieth century. Representations of this newly popular, supposedly unitary, Mediterranean cuisine filtered into the press in ways that noticeably skewed away from the actual Mediterranean peoples who had originated it, and especially away from those Mediterraneans who were Muslim or Arab. To see how the Middle East and North Africa gradually became “Mediterranean” in the American press, I examine how journalists initially distinguished European Mediterranean foodways from what they saw as orientalist cuisines to the south and east. I then trace the growing popularity of these “exotic” cuisines as the boundaries of the Mediterranean expanded to absorb them into a seemingly postcolonial frame whose imperial and Eurocentric legacies nonetheless remained vividly in place. Finally, I point toward tactical choices made by some members of Middle Eastern and North African diasporas to make their voices and agendas heard in rendering their cuisines accessible, and saleable, to American consumers.","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67152691","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2022.22.3.56
Kristin King Gilbert
{"title":"The Language of Spoons","authors":"Kristin King Gilbert","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2022.22.3.56","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2022.22.3.56","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67152928","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2022.22.3.59
Megan A. Dean
In 2012, a Venn diagram appeared on the blog The Kitchn detailing the characteristics of what it called the “worst dinner guest ever.” This maligned guest is not only vegan but also gluten and lactose intolerant and allergic to nuts and eggs. While a few commenters agreed with the implication that dietary constraints indicate a failure of appropriate guest behavior, most echoed what Lisa Heldke and Raymond Boisvert (2016) suggest is the dominant American view: hosts are generally obliged to accommodate the dietary restrictions of their guests. For Heldke and Boisvert, this is most obviously true when guests have food allergies and serious harm can be easily avoided by a change in menu. In this essay I argue that epistemic barriers can obscure hosts’ perception of these ostensibly obvious cases, preventing them from fulfilling their obligations. Specifically, I argue that guests with food allergies and other “gut issues” can be subject to testimonial injustice that undermines their credibility, leading hosts to doubt or disbelieve their need for accommodation. Such guests may also be subject to testimonial smothering, discouraging them from disclosing their dietary restrictions in the first place. I argue that these forms of epistemic injustice raise multiple moral concerns and that hosts have a responsibility to practice epistemic humility regarding guests’ reports of gut issues. Overall, this paper aims to enable hosts and guests with gut issues alike to recognize and overcome epistemic obstacles to good hospitality—the importance of which extends far beyond the dinner table.
{"title":"The “Worst Dinner Guest Ever”","authors":"Megan A. Dean","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2022.22.3.59","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2022.22.3.59","url":null,"abstract":"In 2012, a Venn diagram appeared on the blog The Kitchn detailing the characteristics of what it called the “worst dinner guest ever.” This maligned guest is not only vegan but also gluten and lactose intolerant and allergic to nuts and eggs. While a few commenters agreed with the implication that dietary constraints indicate a failure of appropriate guest behavior, most echoed what Lisa Heldke and Raymond Boisvert (2016) suggest is the dominant American view: hosts are generally obliged to accommodate the dietary restrictions of their guests. For Heldke and Boisvert, this is most obviously true when guests have food allergies and serious harm can be easily avoided by a change in menu. In this essay I argue that epistemic barriers can obscure hosts’ perception of these ostensibly obvious cases, preventing them from fulfilling their obligations. Specifically, I argue that guests with food allergies and other “gut issues” can be subject to testimonial injustice that undermines their credibility, leading hosts to doubt or disbelieve their need for accommodation. Such guests may also be subject to testimonial smothering, discouraging them from disclosing their dietary restrictions in the first place. I argue that these forms of epistemic injustice raise multiple moral concerns and that hosts have a responsibility to practice epistemic humility regarding guests’ reports of gut issues. Overall, this paper aims to enable hosts and guests with gut issues alike to recognize and overcome epistemic obstacles to good hospitality—the importance of which extends far beyond the dinner table.","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67153006","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Residents of riverine and Indigenous communities in and around the Nanay River in the Peruvian Amazon have indicated that the smell of water is shifting. This article traces the changing smell of water in various communities in the Amazon to understand the importance of water for Amazonians (both spiritually and concretely), the extent to which the human nose is capable of smelling environmental change, and the future work that must be done to protect these fragile and increasingly polluted waterways. While it is well documented that the Amazon’s biodiversity and flora and fauna are under threat due to industrial activities and illegal resource extraction, the role that smell plays in recognizing and denouncing contamination is rarely considered. This article combines recent work in the field of smell studies with anthropological and environmental writings on Amazonia to translate stench into a vivid indicator of a slow violence on the waterways of this biome. Drawing on a documentary film focused on water, the writings of Indigenous philosophers Rafael Chanchari Pizuri and Ailton Krenak, and interviews with residents living along the Nanay River, the significance of water for this region is complexified and linked to larger moments of environmental destruction. The changing smell of water in the Amazon promotes what I call “slow smelling,” where harmful smells go unnoticed and become an accepted part of the odors of a place. Bilious odors indicate serious pollution and contamination of waterways that are necessary to the well-being of local communities and carry ancestral significance.
{"title":"The Smell of Water","authors":"Chanelle Dupuis","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2022.22.4.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2022.22.4.1","url":null,"abstract":"Residents of riverine and Indigenous communities in and around the Nanay River in the Peruvian Amazon have indicated that the smell of water is shifting. This article traces the changing smell of water in various communities in the Amazon to understand the importance of water for Amazonians (both spiritually and concretely), the extent to which the human nose is capable of smelling environmental change, and the future work that must be done to protect these fragile and increasingly polluted waterways. While it is well documented that the Amazon’s biodiversity and flora and fauna are under threat due to industrial activities and illegal resource extraction, the role that smell plays in recognizing and denouncing contamination is rarely considered. This article combines recent work in the field of smell studies with anthropological and environmental writings on Amazonia to translate stench into a vivid indicator of a slow violence on the waterways of this biome. Drawing on a documentary film focused on water, the writings of Indigenous philosophers Rafael Chanchari Pizuri and Ailton Krenak, and interviews with residents living along the Nanay River, the significance of water for this region is complexified and linked to larger moments of environmental destruction. The changing smell of water in the Amazon promotes what I call “slow smelling,” where harmful smells go unnoticed and become an accepted part of the odors of a place. Bilious odors indicate serious pollution and contamination of waterways that are necessary to the well-being of local communities and carry ancestral significance.","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67153429","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2022.22.4.102
N. Allison
{"title":"Review: Caribeños at the Table: How Migration, Health, and Race Intersect in New York City, by Melissa Fuster","authors":"N. Allison","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2022.22.4.102","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2022.22.4.102","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67153481","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2022.22.4.103
Natasha Bunzl
{"title":"Review: Front of the House, Back of the House: Race and Inequality in the Lives of Restaurant Workers, by Eli Revelle Yano Wilson","authors":"Natasha Bunzl","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2022.22.4.103","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2022.22.4.103","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67153491","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2022.22.1.11
Kimberly N. Hill‐Tout, C. Hirtenfelder, Kiera E. B. McMaster, Megan Herod
{"title":"Who Eats, Where, What, and How? COVID-19, Food Security, and Canadian Foodscapes","authors":"Kimberly N. Hill‐Tout, C. Hirtenfelder, Kiera E. B. McMaster, Megan Herod","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2022.22.1.11","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2022.22.1.11","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67150878","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2022.22.1.81
D. Bocarejo, Rafael Díaz
{"title":"“El Viudo De Pescado”","authors":"D. Bocarejo, Rafael Díaz","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2022.22.1.81","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2022.22.1.81","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67151552","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2022.22.2.104
J. V. Dyk
{"title":"Review: Feral Atlas: The More-than-Human Anthropocene, curated and edited by Anna L. Tsing, Jennifer Deger, Alder Saxena Keleman, and Feifei Zhou","authors":"J. V. Dyk","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2022.22.2.104","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2022.22.2.104","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67152149","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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