Pub Date : 2022-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2022.22.2.29
C. Salas, C. Hammelman, Sara Tornabene
Emerging migrant destinations in the United States, such as Charlotte, North Carolina, are receiving an influx of Latin American and Caribbean restaurants and markets in nontraditional landscapes. Food adventurers and diasporic residents rely on their habitus formed by experiences elsewhere to make sense of and determine the authenticity of these new food spaces. To understand how notions of authenticity are used, constructed, experienced, and interpreted in migrant food places, this article relies on an analysis of primary and secondary data on 16 food businesses in Charlotte serving goods associated with Latin America and the Caribbean. This includes narratives emerging in customer reviews on social media complemented with in-depth semi-structured interviews with business owners, field observations, and a review of public media, including oral histories published by the Southern Foodways Alliance. We found that reviewers rely on food grammars that include strategic uses of notions of authenticity paired with descriptors that reveal the writer’s habitus. The food grammars and value judgments relied on experiences in other places; material expectations regarding bodies, languages, and dishes served; and palate memory formed through engagement with ingredients, flavors, and smells. This research contributes to literature on migrant foodways, urban geography, and rhetoric by understanding how migrant food spaces in new destinations are understood and constructed through reliance on notions of authenticity.
{"title":"“Looking for true Mexican food in Charlotte”","authors":"C. Salas, C. Hammelman, Sara Tornabene","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2022.22.2.29","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2022.22.2.29","url":null,"abstract":"Emerging migrant destinations in the United States, such as Charlotte, North Carolina, are receiving an influx of Latin American and Caribbean restaurants and markets in nontraditional landscapes. Food adventurers and diasporic residents rely on their habitus formed by experiences elsewhere to make sense of and determine the authenticity of these new food spaces. To understand how notions of authenticity are used, constructed, experienced, and interpreted in migrant food places, this article relies on an analysis of primary and secondary data on 16 food businesses in Charlotte serving goods associated with Latin America and the Caribbean. This includes narratives emerging in customer reviews on social media complemented with in-depth semi-structured interviews with business owners, field observations, and a review of public media, including oral histories published by the Southern Foodways Alliance. We found that reviewers rely on food grammars that include strategic uses of notions of authenticity paired with descriptors that reveal the writer’s habitus. The food grammars and value judgments relied on experiences in other places; material expectations regarding bodies, languages, and dishes served; and palate memory formed through engagement with ingredients, flavors, and smells. This research contributes to literature on migrant foodways, urban geography, and rhetoric by understanding how migrant food spaces in new destinations are understood and constructed through reliance on notions of authenticity.","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67152663","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2022.22.3.89
Olivia Barnett-Naghshineh
{"title":"Review: Food in Cuba: The Pursuit of a Decent Meal, by Hanna Garth","authors":"Olivia Barnett-Naghshineh","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2022.22.3.89","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2022.22.3.89","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67153354","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2022.22.3.92
Ayana Curran-Howes
{"title":"Review: Food for the Rest of Us, by Caroline Cox","authors":"Ayana Curran-Howes","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2022.22.3.92","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2022.22.3.92","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67153378","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2022.22.3.iv
Melissa Fuster
{"title":"Digesting Tensions and Change","authors":"Melissa Fuster","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2022.22.3.iv","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2022.22.3.iv","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67153421","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2022.22.4.54
C. Spackman, Marisa K Manheim, Shomit Barua
Consumer hesitancy around using wastewater as a drinking water source has proved a stumbling block for water reuse projects. When water professionals technologically clean up wastewater, they begin the process of making it “forget” its previous interactions with humans. Current educational and communication approaches used by water utilities, however, “forget” to engage the sociality of tasting. To activate consumers’ sensory experiences—the thing most often seen as getting in the way adoption of water reuse projects—and to investigate how tasting can help bring to remembrance the other things communities value about water, we developed a multi-modal art–science public engagement exhibit, Tasting Water. First exhibited at Scottsdale’s 2021 Canal Convergence festival and again at the 2022 AZ Water Conference, Tasting Water engaged the public and water professionals in an open-ended invitation to rethink the way they use taste within a larger series of remembering practices in evaluating their water.
{"title":"Tasting Water at Canal Convergence 2021","authors":"C. Spackman, Marisa K Manheim, Shomit Barua","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2022.22.4.54","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2022.22.4.54","url":null,"abstract":"Consumer hesitancy around using wastewater as a drinking water source has proved a stumbling block for water reuse projects. When water professionals technologically clean up wastewater, they begin the process of making it “forget” its previous interactions with humans. Current educational and communication approaches used by water utilities, however, “forget” to engage the sociality of tasting. To activate consumers’ sensory experiences—the thing most often seen as getting in the way adoption of water reuse projects—and to investigate how tasting can help bring to remembrance the other things communities value about water, we developed a multi-modal art–science public engagement exhibit, Tasting Water. First exhibited at Scottsdale’s 2021 Canal Convergence festival and again at the 2022 AZ Water Conference, Tasting Water engaged the public and water professionals in an open-ended invitation to rethink the way they use taste within a larger series of remembering practices in evaluating their water.","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67153699","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2022.22.1.94
T. B. Hayden
{"title":"Review: The Problem with Feeding Cities: The Social Transformation of Infrastructure, Abundance, and Inequality in America, by Andrew Deener","authors":"T. B. Hayden","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2022.22.1.94","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2022.22.1.94","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67151537","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Miracle in a Time of Dregs","authors":"Greg Emilio","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2022.22.2.1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2022.22.2.1","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"8 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67151908","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2022.22.2.102
Alice L. McLean
{"title":"Review: Taste Makers: Seven Immigrant Women Who Revolutionized Food in America, by Mayukh Sen","authors":"Alice L. McLean","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2022.22.2.102","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2022.22.2.102","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67151991","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2022.22.4.99
Sandra Trujillo
{"title":"Fried Goose Eggs","authors":"Sandra Trujillo","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2022.22.4.99","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2022.22.4.99","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67153390","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2022.22.2.15
Mónica B. Ocasio Vega
Rice and beans is considered a staple dish of the Caribbean. This article traces the principles of sabor—a multisensorial image—in the dish of rice and beans in Puerto Rico. I argue that Ana Lydia Vega’s story “Historia de Arroz con Habichuelas” and the recipes for “Arroz Blanco” (White Rice) and “Habichuelas Rosadas Secas” (Dried Pink Beans) in Carmen Aboy Valldejuli’s vernacular cookbook Cocina Criolla set forward a multisensorial image I call sabor and invite us to participate in a sensorial life in the Caribbean. In considering the privileged place of the dish in the Puerto Rican culinary imaginary, I propose an analysis of the writing of and about food made possible through savoring—as an exercise that brings us closer to the particularity of the culinary.
米饭和豆子被认为是加勒比地区的主食。这篇文章在波多黎各的米饭和豆子菜中追溯了sabor(一种多感官图像)的原理。我认为，Ana Lydia Vega的故事“Historia de Arroz con Habichuelas”以及Carmen Aboy Valldejuli的本地烹饪书Cocina Criolla中的“Arroz Blanco”(白米饭)和“Habichuelas Rosadas Secas”(干粉豆)的食谱提出了一种我称之为sabor的多感官形象，并邀请我们参与加勒比海的感官生活。考虑到这道菜在波多黎各烹饪想象中的特殊地位，我建议对通过品尝而成为可能的食物的写作和有关食物的分析——作为一种使我们更接近烹饪特殊性的练习。
{"title":"Recipe for Rice and Beans","authors":"Mónica B. Ocasio Vega","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2022.22.2.15","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2022.22.2.15","url":null,"abstract":"Rice and beans is considered a staple dish of the Caribbean. This article traces the principles of sabor—a multisensorial image—in the dish of rice and beans in Puerto Rico. I argue that Ana Lydia Vega’s story “Historia de Arroz con Habichuelas” and the recipes for “Arroz Blanco” (White Rice) and “Habichuelas Rosadas Secas” (Dried Pink Beans) in Carmen Aboy Valldejuli’s vernacular cookbook Cocina Criolla set forward a multisensorial image I call sabor and invite us to participate in a sensorial life in the Caribbean. In considering the privileged place of the dish in the Puerto Rican culinary imaginary, I propose an analysis of the writing of and about food made possible through savoring—as an exercise that brings us closer to the particularity of the culinary.","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67152264","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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