This article explores the cultural work behind the newly emerging interest in Polish cuisine, culinary traditions, and local ingredients among urban, educated, upwardly mobile middle-class foodies who a decade earlier would distinguish themselves by conspicuously consuming foreign fare. Cultural intermediaries, or tastemakers, have been central to this process of creating new forms of value and meaning in Polish food. Given their reflexivity, the iterative and collaborative character of their modus operandi, and their focus on the future, we frame their practices in the analytic language of design. They redesign Polish food in terms of space—through the rearticulations and new embodiments of the categories of “local,” “regional,” and “national”—and time, through materializations of history, tradition, and aspiration.
{"title":"Designing the Future of Polish Food","authors":"M. Halawa, Fabio Parasecoli","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2022.22.3.8","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2022.22.3.8","url":null,"abstract":"This article explores the cultural work behind the newly emerging interest in Polish cuisine, culinary traditions, and local ingredients among urban, educated, upwardly mobile middle-class foodies who a decade earlier would distinguish themselves by conspicuously consuming foreign fare. Cultural intermediaries, or tastemakers, have been central to this process of creating new forms of value and meaning in Polish food. Given their reflexivity, the iterative and collaborative character of their modus operandi, and their focus on the future, we frame their practices in the analytic language of design. They redesign Polish food in terms of space—through the rearticulations and new embodiments of the categories of “local,” “regional,” and “national”—and time, through materializations of history, tradition, and aspiration.","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67152877","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2022.22.3.27
H. R. Song, R. Earle, Melissa Fuster, Lara Anderson, Jordana Mendelson
{"title":"Across Time, Space, and Matter","authors":"H. R. Song, R. Earle, Melissa Fuster, Lara Anderson, Jordana Mendelson","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2022.22.3.27","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2022.22.3.27","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67153189","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2022.22.2.26
Jason Edward Pagaduan
{"title":"what is fried is gold","authors":"Jason Edward Pagaduan","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2022.22.2.26","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2022.22.2.26","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67151881","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2022.22.2.100
J. Johnston
{"title":"Review: Porkopolis: American Animality, Standardized Life, & the Factory Farm, by Alex Blanchette","authors":"J. Johnston","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2022.22.2.100","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2022.22.2.100","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67151934","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2022.22.1.66
Krystyn R. Moon, J. Ward, J. Rodriguez, Jorge Foyo
While many scholars have examined the idea of consumption preferences, also known as taste, in capitalist contexts, they have not explored how taste manifests in socialist or communist societies. In this case study, we query the ways in which two Cuban communities express taste through food choices and consumption patterns. We find that identity influences preferences less than the prevailing discourse around Cuban cuisine suggests. In addition, patterns among subjects’ responses speak to the ways in which local custom and larger structural forces intersect in respondents' lives. Instead of simply reflecting the notion of class differentiation through consumption, our subjects reveal the significance of gender roles and individual relationships to food production in their discussions of preferences. Thus, this study demonstrates that, while food preferences appear in this resource-constrained context, taste and actuality do not always align.
{"title":"Food Access, Identity, and Taste in Two Rural Cuban Communities","authors":"Krystyn R. Moon, J. Ward, J. Rodriguez, Jorge Foyo","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2022.22.1.66","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2022.22.1.66","url":null,"abstract":"While many scholars have examined the idea of consumption preferences, also known as taste, in capitalist contexts, they have not explored how taste manifests in socialist or communist societies. In this case study, we query the ways in which two Cuban communities express taste through food choices and consumption patterns. We find that identity influences preferences less than the prevailing discourse around Cuban cuisine suggests. In addition, patterns among subjects’ responses speak to the ways in which local custom and larger structural forces intersect in respondents' lives. Instead of simply reflecting the notion of class differentiation through consumption, our subjects reveal the significance of gender roles and individual relationships to food production in their discussions of preferences. Thus, this study demonstrates that, while food preferences appear in this resource-constrained context, taste and actuality do not always align.","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67151224","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2022.22.2.64
E. L. Hayes, Norah A. MacKendrick
African American foodways have historically shared many of the same imperatives prized by writers, experts, and pundits concerned with making food systems more sustainable—namely, encouraging farm-to-table food distribution networks, using “natural” or low-impact agricultural methods, and inspiring scratch cooking with local, fresh ingredients. Contemporary writing about sustainable food and agriculture in the United States locates the origins of this movement in Europe and northern California. In this article, we challenge this conceptualization by presenting what we call the “food imaginaries” of three key historical figures: George Washington Carver, Fannie Lou Hamer, and Edna Lewis. These imaginaries not only reflect the knowledge constructions of a social group and map future possibilities through foodways but also challenge damaging narratives about African American food histories, particularly across the south. We find that these imaginaries envision food as a pathway to freedom, autonomy, pleasure, and joy, and tell greater stories of how “organic” and “natural” falters when imagined outside of Blackness. These imaginaries, we argue, are central to American agricultural and political histories, and have important implications for sustainability and food justice movements in the United States.
{"title":"“Leave No Stone Unturned”","authors":"E. L. Hayes, Norah A. MacKendrick","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2022.22.2.64","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2022.22.2.64","url":null,"abstract":"African American foodways have historically shared many of the same imperatives prized by writers, experts, and pundits concerned with making food systems more sustainable—namely, encouraging farm-to-table food distribution networks, using “natural” or low-impact agricultural methods, and inspiring scratch cooking with local, fresh ingredients. Contemporary writing about sustainable food and agriculture in the United States locates the origins of this movement in Europe and northern California. In this article, we challenge this conceptualization by presenting what we call the “food imaginaries” of three key historical figures: George Washington Carver, Fannie Lou Hamer, and Edna Lewis. These imaginaries not only reflect the knowledge constructions of a social group and map future possibilities through foodways but also challenge damaging narratives about African American food histories, particularly across the south. We find that these imaginaries envision food as a pathway to freedom, autonomy, pleasure, and joy, and tell greater stories of how “organic” and “natural” falters when imagined outside of Blackness. These imaginaries, we argue, are central to American agricultural and political histories, and have important implications for sustainability and food justice movements in the United States.","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67152778","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2022.22.4.106
J. Fine
{"title":"Review: Imperial Wine: How the British Empire Made Wine’s New World, by Jennifer Regan-Lefebvre","authors":"J. Fine","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2022.22.4.106","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2022.22.4.106","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67153542","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2022.22.1.50
J. Johnston, M. Chrobok
{"title":"“Nothing says gentrification like being able to order a cortado”","authors":"J. Johnston, M. Chrobok","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2022.22.1.50","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2022.22.1.50","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67150902","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Krishnendu Ray, Miranda Brown, Saumya Gupta, Eric C. Rath, Robert T. Valgenti
{"title":"Translating Foods of the World","authors":"Krishnendu Ray, Miranda Brown, Saumya Gupta, Eric C. Rath, Robert T. Valgenti","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2022.22.2.2","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2022.22.2.2","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67151822","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2022-01-01DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2022.22.2.103
Todd C. Ream
{"title":"Review: Our Daily Bread: A Meditation on the Cultural and Symbolic Significance of Bread throughout History, by Predrag Matvejević, translated by Christina Pribichevich-Zorić","authors":"Todd C. Ream","doi":"10.1525/gfc.2022.22.2.103","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2022.22.2.103","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":89141,"journal":{"name":"Gastronomica : the journal of food and culture","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"67152034","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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