Pub Date : 2023-07-19DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics10040107
L. Coderch, C. Alonso, M. García, L. Pérez, M. Martí
Human hair fibres are mainly comprised of proteins (>90%) and lipids (1–9%), which are characterised as exogenous or endogenous, depending on whether they originate from sebaceous glands or hair matrix cells, respectively. Exogenous lipids consist of free fatty acids (FFAs), triglycerides, cholesterol (CH), wax esters, and squalene. Endogenous hair lipids comprise FFAs, CH, ceramides, glycosylceramides, cholesterol sulfate, and 18-methyleicosanoic acid. Lipids were demonstrated to be fundamental against damage and maintenance of healthy hair. Several studies have evaluated the effects of hair lipid content and have shown how hair properties were altered when lipids were removed by solvent extraction. The effect of surfactants on hair lipids is difficult to determine, as the complex structure of the cell membrane complex makes it difficult to determine where surfactants act. Shampoos and conditioners contain surfactants that remove lipids during routine cleansing of hair. However, shampooing does not completely remove all free lipids from the surface layers. The effect of surfactants on the alteration and removal of structural lipids is poorly developed, and there is no consensus on the results. Further research on the lipid composition of the hair could provide information on the penetration pathways of surfactants to improve effectiveness and limit possible damage.
{"title":"Hair Lipid Structure: Effect of Surfactants","authors":"L. Coderch, C. Alonso, M. García, L. Pérez, M. Martí","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics10040107","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10040107","url":null,"abstract":"Human hair fibres are mainly comprised of proteins (>90%) and lipids (1–9%), which are characterised as exogenous or endogenous, depending on whether they originate from sebaceous glands or hair matrix cells, respectively. Exogenous lipids consist of free fatty acids (FFAs), triglycerides, cholesterol (CH), wax esters, and squalene. Endogenous hair lipids comprise FFAs, CH, ceramides, glycosylceramides, cholesterol sulfate, and 18-methyleicosanoic acid. Lipids were demonstrated to be fundamental against damage and maintenance of healthy hair. Several studies have evaluated the effects of hair lipid content and have shown how hair properties were altered when lipids were removed by solvent extraction. The effect of surfactants on hair lipids is difficult to determine, as the complex structure of the cell membrane complex makes it difficult to determine where surfactants act. Shampoos and conditioners contain surfactants that remove lipids during routine cleansing of hair. However, shampooing does not completely remove all free lipids from the surface layers. The effect of surfactants on the alteration and removal of structural lipids is poorly developed, and there is no consensus on the results. Further research on the lipid composition of the hair could provide information on the penetration pathways of surfactants to improve effectiveness and limit possible damage.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2023-07-19","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46273691","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-07-18DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics10040106
N. Sadgrove, S. Batra, David Barreto, J. Rapaport
In this current review, research spanning the last decade (such as transcriptomic studies, phenotypic observations, and confirmed comorbidities) has been synthesized into an updated etiology of hair loss and applied to the new cosmeceutical paradigm of hair rejuvenation. The major etiological components in scalps with hair loss are denoted as the ‘big eight strikes’, which include the following: androgens, prostaglandins, overactive aerobic metabolism of glucose, bacterial or fungal over-colonization, inflammation, fibrosis, metabolism or circulation problems, and malnutrition. The relevance of the ‘big eight’ to nine categories of hair loss is explained. In cases of androgenetic alopecia or female pattern hair loss, both elevated DHT and increased frequency of androgen receptors lead to problems with the metabolism of glucose (sugar), redox imbalance, disruption to the electron transport chain, and PPAR-γ overactivity (the latter is unique to androgenetic alopecia, where the reverse occurs in other types of hair loss). These etiological factors and others from ‘the big eight’ are the focal point of our hypothetical narrative of the attenuative mechanisms of commercial cosmeceutical hair serums. We conclude that cosmeceuticals with the potential to improve all eight strikes (according to published in vitro or clinical data) utilize bioactive peptides and plant compounds that are either flavonoids (isoflavones, procyanidins, flavanols, and flavonols) or sterols/triterpenes. It is noteworthy that many therapeutic interventions are generic to the multiple types of hair loss. Lastly, suggestions are made on how scalp and hair health can be improved by following the cosmeceutical approach.
{"title":"An Updated Etiology of Hair Loss and the New Cosmeceutical Paradigm in Therapy: Clearing ‘the Big Eight Strikes’","authors":"N. Sadgrove, S. Batra, David Barreto, J. Rapaport","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics10040106","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10040106","url":null,"abstract":"In this current review, research spanning the last decade (such as transcriptomic studies, phenotypic observations, and confirmed comorbidities) has been synthesized into an updated etiology of hair loss and applied to the new cosmeceutical paradigm of hair rejuvenation. The major etiological components in scalps with hair loss are denoted as the ‘big eight strikes’, which include the following: androgens, prostaglandins, overactive aerobic metabolism of glucose, bacterial or fungal over-colonization, inflammation, fibrosis, metabolism or circulation problems, and malnutrition. The relevance of the ‘big eight’ to nine categories of hair loss is explained. In cases of androgenetic alopecia or female pattern hair loss, both elevated DHT and increased frequency of androgen receptors lead to problems with the metabolism of glucose (sugar), redox imbalance, disruption to the electron transport chain, and PPAR-γ overactivity (the latter is unique to androgenetic alopecia, where the reverse occurs in other types of hair loss). These etiological factors and others from ‘the big eight’ are the focal point of our hypothetical narrative of the attenuative mechanisms of commercial cosmeceutical hair serums. We conclude that cosmeceuticals with the potential to improve all eight strikes (according to published in vitro or clinical data) utilize bioactive peptides and plant compounds that are either flavonoids (isoflavones, procyanidins, flavanols, and flavonols) or sterols/triterpenes. It is noteworthy that many therapeutic interventions are generic to the multiple types of hair loss. Lastly, suggestions are made on how scalp and hair health can be improved by following the cosmeceutical approach.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2023-07-18","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46447623","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-07-17DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics10040105
M. Issa, André Fogaça, E. Palermo, Luciana C. Maluf, Patricia Ormiga, L. Conrado, Luis Henrique Barbizan de Moura
Cosmetic procedures using fillers have gained importance over the last decades due to their ability to offer rejuvenation and beautification quickly with no (or minor) side effects. Hyaluronic acid (HA) gel is the most used filler in cosmetic dermatology; its physical and chemical properties vary according to the manufacturing process. The characteristics of the final product are crucial for its clinical indication. Specific physicochemical properties of HA gel are required to fill, volumize, sustain, and contour different anatomical areas and layers. Ideally, HA gels should have a consistency similar to that of the surrounding tissue to promote a natural feel, but, at the same time, they should be able to sustain their shape against constant physical strain caused by muscle contraction during mimic movements. Generally, softer gels are indicated to fill superficial layers, and are not usually meant to perform lifting or volumizing, for which stiffer gels are proposed. Therefore, combining gels with different characteristics is indicated for global facial treatment. The Brazilian market recently introduced a new Korean HA filler. Still, clinical evaluation of global facial treatment using these products is lacking in the literature. This study aims to describe clinical results, patient satisfaction, and side effects of facial treatment using these fillers. We analysed the clinical impact of global facial treatment in 35 patients performed by seven dermatologists. Patients of both sexes desiring beautification or rejuvenation were included, and all of them had indications for the filling procedure. Three Korean HA gels (e.p.t.q. S100, S300, and S500, Jetema ®) with high HA concentrations and cohesiveness, varying only in their crosslinking degree, were used. The dermatologists chose the product for each procedure based on their rheological properties and clinical assessment. S100 gel was indicated for refinement, and S300 and S500 gels for structure and volume. The doctors evaluated the clinical outcomes of rejuvenation or beautification using the Global Aesthetic Improvement Scale (GAIS), and patient satisfaction using the Likert scale, 1, 3, and 6 months after the procedures. Patients treated included 4 males and 31 females with a mean age of 43.08 years. An average of 6.33 syringes was used. After 30 days, 80% of patients showed excellent or accentuated improvement, with 94.2% satisfaction. After 3 and 6 months, 80% of patients showed excellent or accentuated improvement, which increased their happiness (97%). Immediate common side effects occurred in 17 patients. One patient had a vascular occlusion, which was quickly reverted using hyaluronidase. Most patients had accentuated improvement and great satisfaction. This new cohesive, highly concentrated HA gel promoted a sustained global improvement and patient satisfaction with expected transitory side effects.
{"title":"Global Facial Rejuvenation Using a New Cohesive, Highly Concentrated Hyaluronic Acid Filler: A Descriptive Analysis of 35 Cases","authors":"M. Issa, André Fogaça, E. Palermo, Luciana C. Maluf, Patricia Ormiga, L. Conrado, Luis Henrique Barbizan de Moura","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics10040105","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10040105","url":null,"abstract":"Cosmetic procedures using fillers have gained importance over the last decades due to their ability to offer rejuvenation and beautification quickly with no (or minor) side effects. Hyaluronic acid (HA) gel is the most used filler in cosmetic dermatology; its physical and chemical properties vary according to the manufacturing process. The characteristics of the final product are crucial for its clinical indication. Specific physicochemical properties of HA gel are required to fill, volumize, sustain, and contour different anatomical areas and layers. Ideally, HA gels should have a consistency similar to that of the surrounding tissue to promote a natural feel, but, at the same time, they should be able to sustain their shape against constant physical strain caused by muscle contraction during mimic movements. Generally, softer gels are indicated to fill superficial layers, and are not usually meant to perform lifting or volumizing, for which stiffer gels are proposed. Therefore, combining gels with different characteristics is indicated for global facial treatment. The Brazilian market recently introduced a new Korean HA filler. Still, clinical evaluation of global facial treatment using these products is lacking in the literature. This study aims to describe clinical results, patient satisfaction, and side effects of facial treatment using these fillers. We analysed the clinical impact of global facial treatment in 35 patients performed by seven dermatologists. Patients of both sexes desiring beautification or rejuvenation were included, and all of them had indications for the filling procedure. Three Korean HA gels (e.p.t.q. S100, S300, and S500, Jetema ®) with high HA concentrations and cohesiveness, varying only in their crosslinking degree, were used. The dermatologists chose the product for each procedure based on their rheological properties and clinical assessment. S100 gel was indicated for refinement, and S300 and S500 gels for structure and volume. The doctors evaluated the clinical outcomes of rejuvenation or beautification using the Global Aesthetic Improvement Scale (GAIS), and patient satisfaction using the Likert scale, 1, 3, and 6 months after the procedures. Patients treated included 4 males and 31 females with a mean age of 43.08 years. An average of 6.33 syringes was used. After 30 days, 80% of patients showed excellent or accentuated improvement, with 94.2% satisfaction. After 3 and 6 months, 80% of patients showed excellent or accentuated improvement, which increased their happiness (97%). Immediate common side effects occurred in 17 patients. One patient had a vascular occlusion, which was quickly reverted using hyaluronidase. Most patients had accentuated improvement and great satisfaction. This new cohesive, highly concentrated HA gel promoted a sustained global improvement and patient satisfaction with expected transitory side effects.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2023-07-17","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48385745","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-07-17DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics10040104
L. Busch, A. L. Klein, J. Schwartz, Kathleen Pearson, H. Richter, S. Schanzer, S. B. Lohan, F. Schumacher, B. Kleuser, M. Meinke
A key factor in the prevention of hair loss is the provision of optimal conditions on the scalp. In this regard, reduction of oxidative stress on the scalp is one critical requirement to support the hair follicles to function optimally. Recently, a novel shampoo formulation technology containing anti-oxidants such as piroctone olamine has been demonstrated to improve hair retention based on micellar degradation and coacervation effects. Caffeine has also been shown to exhibit anti-oxidant activity including the ability to inhibit lipid peroxidation. As with piroctone olamine, it is expected that follicular delivery of caffeine will enhance its anti-oxidant activity in a region that will be beneficial for hair retention. In this study, two shampoo formulations as well as a control formulation were applied to the calf area of n = 9 male participants. The technique of differential tape stripping was applied to obtain the caffeine penetrated to the stratum corneum and to the hair follicles. Isotope-dilution liquid chromatography coupled with tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS) was performed to demonstrate caffeine follicular delivery from the shampoo formulas. The results showed that the percentage of caffeine recovered in the hair follicles was 8–9% of the caffeine absorbed into the skin and matched an existing caffeine-based shampoo. In conclusion, a novel shampoo formulation technology has been developed that effectively delivers beneficial anti-oxidants to improve hair retention. This new shampoo is expected to be especially useful in the goal of retaining hair during aging.
{"title":"Follicular Delivery of Caffeine from a Shampoo for Hair Retention","authors":"L. Busch, A. L. Klein, J. Schwartz, Kathleen Pearson, H. Richter, S. Schanzer, S. B. Lohan, F. Schumacher, B. Kleuser, M. Meinke","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics10040104","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10040104","url":null,"abstract":"A key factor in the prevention of hair loss is the provision of optimal conditions on the scalp. In this regard, reduction of oxidative stress on the scalp is one critical requirement to support the hair follicles to function optimally. Recently, a novel shampoo formulation technology containing anti-oxidants such as piroctone olamine has been demonstrated to improve hair retention based on micellar degradation and coacervation effects. Caffeine has also been shown to exhibit anti-oxidant activity including the ability to inhibit lipid peroxidation. As with piroctone olamine, it is expected that follicular delivery of caffeine will enhance its anti-oxidant activity in a region that will be beneficial for hair retention. In this study, two shampoo formulations as well as a control formulation were applied to the calf area of n = 9 male participants. The technique of differential tape stripping was applied to obtain the caffeine penetrated to the stratum corneum and to the hair follicles. Isotope-dilution liquid chromatography coupled with tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS) was performed to demonstrate caffeine follicular delivery from the shampoo formulas. The results showed that the percentage of caffeine recovered in the hair follicles was 8–9% of the caffeine absorbed into the skin and matched an existing caffeine-based shampoo. In conclusion, a novel shampoo formulation technology has been developed that effectively delivers beneficial anti-oxidants to improve hair retention. This new shampoo is expected to be especially useful in the goal of retaining hair during aging.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2023-07-17","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48103627","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-07-15DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics10040103
M. Centini, I. Martinez‐Sañudo, M. Biagi, E. Dreassi, L. Mazzon, L. Marri
In recent years, the exploitation of bacteria for the production of carotenoids has become of great interest as a sustainable alternative to chemical synthesis, which is expensive and technically challenging. This study contributes to the repertoire of carotenogenic bacteria by reporting the isolation of an orange-pigmented bacterium from the gut of adult olive flies. The novel isolate, designated as M3d10, shared 100% identity with Brevundimonas aurantiaca strain CB-R 16S ribosomal RNA, and, through a preliminary characterization, its orange pigment was predicted to be a hydroxylated astaxanthin derivative.
{"title":"Brevundimonas aurantiaca M3d10, Isolated from the Olive Fly, Produces Hydroxylated Astaxanthin","authors":"M. Centini, I. Martinez‐Sañudo, M. Biagi, E. Dreassi, L. Mazzon, L. Marri","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics10040103","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10040103","url":null,"abstract":"In recent years, the exploitation of bacteria for the production of carotenoids has become of great interest as a sustainable alternative to chemical synthesis, which is expensive and technically challenging. This study contributes to the repertoire of carotenogenic bacteria by reporting the isolation of an orange-pigmented bacterium from the gut of adult olive flies. The novel isolate, designated as M3d10, shared 100% identity with Brevundimonas aurantiaca strain CB-R 16S ribosomal RNA, and, through a preliminary characterization, its orange pigment was predicted to be a hydroxylated astaxanthin derivative.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2023-07-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48698217","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-07-14DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics10040102
Eleni Galani, Dimitrios Galatis, Kyriaki Tzoka, V. Papadimitriou, T. Sotiroudis, Antonios Bonos, A. Xenakis, M. Chatzidaki
The aim of this study was to formulate nanodispersions to encapsulate antioxidants extracted from olive mill wastewater (OMW) and phycocyanin extracted from Spirulina maxima to act as enhancers for the skin’s protection against UV radiation. For this purpose, two water-in-oil nanoemulsions were prepared using a low-energy homogenization method. Both systems were based on isopropyl myristate as the continuous phase, while water or a mixture of glycerol and water was used as the dispersed phase. Then, antioxidants extracted from OMW and phycocyanin from Spirulina maxima were encapsulated in the water core of the nanoemulsions. The empty and antioxidant-loaded systems were then structurally studied using dynamic light scattering for the detection of their droplet size and stability over time. Electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy using adequate probes was applied for the characterization of the surfactants’ monolayer in the presence and absence of antioxidants. It was found that the mean droplet diameter of the emulsions was 200 nm. The nanoemulsions remained stable for over 2 months. The encapsulated antioxidants were assessed for their scavenging activity of a model stable radical by applying EPR spectroscopy. It was found that the loaded systems exhibited an increased antioxidant capacity compared with the empty ones. Finally, the most stable system was added to commercial sunscreen lotions and the overall sun protection factor (SPF) was assessed. The sunscreen lotions that contained the nanoemulsions loaded with OMW extracts or phycocyanin showed an increase in their SPF value.
{"title":"Natural Antioxidant-Loaded Nanoemulsions for Sun Protection Enhancement","authors":"Eleni Galani, Dimitrios Galatis, Kyriaki Tzoka, V. Papadimitriou, T. Sotiroudis, Antonios Bonos, A. Xenakis, M. Chatzidaki","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics10040102","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10040102","url":null,"abstract":"The aim of this study was to formulate nanodispersions to encapsulate antioxidants extracted from olive mill wastewater (OMW) and phycocyanin extracted from Spirulina maxima to act as enhancers for the skin’s protection against UV radiation. For this purpose, two water-in-oil nanoemulsions were prepared using a low-energy homogenization method. Both systems were based on isopropyl myristate as the continuous phase, while water or a mixture of glycerol and water was used as the dispersed phase. Then, antioxidants extracted from OMW and phycocyanin from Spirulina maxima were encapsulated in the water core of the nanoemulsions. The empty and antioxidant-loaded systems were then structurally studied using dynamic light scattering for the detection of their droplet size and stability over time. Electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy using adequate probes was applied for the characterization of the surfactants’ monolayer in the presence and absence of antioxidants. It was found that the mean droplet diameter of the emulsions was 200 nm. The nanoemulsions remained stable for over 2 months. The encapsulated antioxidants were assessed for their scavenging activity of a model stable radical by applying EPR spectroscopy. It was found that the loaded systems exhibited an increased antioxidant capacity compared with the empty ones. Finally, the most stable system was added to commercial sunscreen lotions and the overall sun protection factor (SPF) was assessed. The sunscreen lotions that contained the nanoemulsions loaded with OMW extracts or phycocyanin showed an increase in their SPF value.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2023-07-14","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44107795","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-07-12DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics10040101
G. Nitulescu, D. Lupuliasa, Ines Adam-Dima, G. Nițulescu
Sunscreens reduce the occurrence risk of skin disorders such as sunburn, skin aging, and cancer through their ability to absorb, reflect, and scatter ultraviolet (UV) radiation. This review provides an overview of UV filters as active ingredients of sunscreen products, emphasizing their classification and structural characteristics. Their photostability, mechanism of action of ultraviolet radiation absorption, optical properties, and regulatory status are discussed based on their chemical structure. The main classes of organic UV filters presented include aminobenzoic acid derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives, cinnamic acid derivatives, benzophenones, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, benzylidene camphor derivatives, triazines, benzimidazole derivatives, and benzotriazole derivatives. The pursuit of new UV filters through research is crucial in advancing sunscreen technology and ensuring the availability of effective and safe options for sun protection.
{"title":"Ultraviolet Filters for Cosmetic Applications","authors":"G. Nitulescu, D. Lupuliasa, Ines Adam-Dima, G. Nițulescu","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics10040101","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10040101","url":null,"abstract":"Sunscreens reduce the occurrence risk of skin disorders such as sunburn, skin aging, and cancer through their ability to absorb, reflect, and scatter ultraviolet (UV) radiation. This review provides an overview of UV filters as active ingredients of sunscreen products, emphasizing their classification and structural characteristics. Their photostability, mechanism of action of ultraviolet radiation absorption, optical properties, and regulatory status are discussed based on their chemical structure. The main classes of organic UV filters presented include aminobenzoic acid derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives, cinnamic acid derivatives, benzophenones, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, benzylidene camphor derivatives, triazines, benzimidazole derivatives, and benzotriazole derivatives. The pursuit of new UV filters through research is crucial in advancing sunscreen technology and ensuring the availability of effective and safe options for sun protection.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2023-07-12","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47266717","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-07-07DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics10040100
O. Egambaram, S. Kesavan Pillai, S. Ray, Marlize Goosen
Organic UV filters have been known to generate harmful by-products and undergo photoreactive degradation, which ultimately poses a great threat to consumers using sunscreen products. Inorganic UV filters such as TiO2 and ZnO, although considered safer options, are not without threat considering their photocatalytic nature and ability to generate reactive oxygen species. A study was conducted to identify the influence of different metal ions on the photochemical properties of layered double hydroxides (LDH), Zinc-Titanium LDH (Zn-Ti LDH), Zinc-Aluminium LDH (Zn-Al LDH), and Magnesium- Aluminium LDH (Mg-Al LDH) and their prospects in photoprotection. The photocatalytic properties of the LDH were analyzed and compared to TiO2 and ZnO. The intermediate band gaps of Zn-Ti (3.72 eV) and Zn-Al LDH (3.3 eV) proved favorable and safer for the use of these LDH in cosmetic formulations as they offer lower photo-reactivity when compared to cosmetic grade ZnO and TiO2. The in vitro SPF values obtained for formulations containing 2 wt% Zn-Ti and 2 wt% Zn-Al LDH showed promise, with both samples claiming “broad spectrum” protection and valid claims of UVA protection.
{"title":"Structural and Photoprotective Characteristics of Zn-Ti, Zn-Al, and Mg-Al Layered Double Hydroxides—A Comparative Study","authors":"O. Egambaram, S. Kesavan Pillai, S. Ray, Marlize Goosen","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics10040100","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10040100","url":null,"abstract":"Organic UV filters have been known to generate harmful by-products and undergo photoreactive degradation, which ultimately poses a great threat to consumers using sunscreen products. Inorganic UV filters such as TiO2 and ZnO, although considered safer options, are not without threat considering their photocatalytic nature and ability to generate reactive oxygen species. A study was conducted to identify the influence of different metal ions on the photochemical properties of layered double hydroxides (LDH), Zinc-Titanium LDH (Zn-Ti LDH), Zinc-Aluminium LDH (Zn-Al LDH), and Magnesium- Aluminium LDH (Mg-Al LDH) and their prospects in photoprotection. The photocatalytic properties of the LDH were analyzed and compared to TiO2 and ZnO. The intermediate band gaps of Zn-Ti (3.72 eV) and Zn-Al LDH (3.3 eV) proved favorable and safer for the use of these LDH in cosmetic formulations as they offer lower photo-reactivity when compared to cosmetic grade ZnO and TiO2. The in vitro SPF values obtained for formulations containing 2 wt% Zn-Ti and 2 wt% Zn-Al LDH showed promise, with both samples claiming “broad spectrum” protection and valid claims of UVA protection.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2023-07-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45649842","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-07-05DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics10040099
C. Pereira-Leite, Mariana Bom, Andria Ribeiro, C. Almeida, C. Rosado
The outermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum (SC), ensures protection against harmful xenobiotics, and alterations in its lipidic matrix composition are related to several cutaneous dysfunctions. The skin barrier function is usually attributed to ceramides, but the role of free fatty acids, such as stearic acid, has been increasingly acknowledged. This research work aimed to develop solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN) and nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC) based on stearic acid and glyceryl distearate, in order to explore the potential of these materials as the basis of lipid nanoparticles. Different blends of stearic acid, Precirol® ATO 5, Capryol® 90 and Tween® 80 were probed to prepare SLN and NLC. These lipid nanoparticles were further characterised according to particle size, polydispersity index (PDI), pH, and viscosity. Accelerated and long-term stability tests were also performed for 90 days, as well as in vivo assays to evaluate safety and efficacy. Overall, most nanoparticles showed interesting properties for topical application if they had sizes less than 300 nm, PDI below 0.3, pH compatible with skin and viscosity lower than 5 mPa.s. In long-term stability studies, the SLN_2 and NLC_2 formulations stood out, as they remained stable over time. In vivo biocompatibility tests conducted in human volunteers showed no negative impact of the formulations when applied openly or under occlusion. Efficacy studies with the most stable nanoparticles made of Precirol® ATO 5 showed an increase in skin hydration. The nanoparticles developed in this study have shown potential to be used for cosmetic purposes, and the blend of lipids provided good biocompatibility and moisturising properties.
{"title":"Exploring Stearic-Acid-Based Nanoparticles for Skin Applications—Focusing on Stability and Cosmetic Benefits","authors":"C. Pereira-Leite, Mariana Bom, Andria Ribeiro, C. Almeida, C. Rosado","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics10040099","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10040099","url":null,"abstract":"The outermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum (SC), ensures protection against harmful xenobiotics, and alterations in its lipidic matrix composition are related to several cutaneous dysfunctions. The skin barrier function is usually attributed to ceramides, but the role of free fatty acids, such as stearic acid, has been increasingly acknowledged. This research work aimed to develop solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN) and nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC) based on stearic acid and glyceryl distearate, in order to explore the potential of these materials as the basis of lipid nanoparticles. Different blends of stearic acid, Precirol® ATO 5, Capryol® 90 and Tween® 80 were probed to prepare SLN and NLC. These lipid nanoparticles were further characterised according to particle size, polydispersity index (PDI), pH, and viscosity. Accelerated and long-term stability tests were also performed for 90 days, as well as in vivo assays to evaluate safety and efficacy. Overall, most nanoparticles showed interesting properties for topical application if they had sizes less than 300 nm, PDI below 0.3, pH compatible with skin and viscosity lower than 5 mPa.s. In long-term stability studies, the SLN_2 and NLC_2 formulations stood out, as they remained stable over time. In vivo biocompatibility tests conducted in human volunteers showed no negative impact of the formulations when applied openly or under occlusion. Efficacy studies with the most stable nanoparticles made of Precirol® ATO 5 showed an increase in skin hydration. The nanoparticles developed in this study have shown potential to be used for cosmetic purposes, and the blend of lipids provided good biocompatibility and moisturising properties.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2023-07-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"41465176","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2023-07-04DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics10040097
F. Cervellati, M. Benedusi, Angela Mastaloudis, V. Nagliati, G. Valacchi
Ozone (O3) is a harmful air pollutant to which we are constantly exposed. Given its strong oxidizing effects and pervasiveness in the air we breathe, O3 is especially damaging to target organs in the respiratory system (e.g., lungs) and the integumentary apparatus (e.g., skin). Both of these systems act as a barrier and are able to limit the penetration of atmospheric pollutants into the body. In this regard, skin—the largest and main barrier against atmospheric intrusions—offers continuous protection against environmental intrusions. The skin is equipped with several defensive molecules that act as protective intracellular antioxidants against oxidative intrusions, including O3. Among these antioxidants are carotenoids, a family of lipophilic phytonutrients that are abundant in fruits and vegetables. It is well established that carotenoids accumulate in the epidermis layer of the skin, where they confer protection against oxidative intrusions and modulate inflammation, and that there is a direct correlation between skin and serum carotenoids level. The present study aimed to evaluate the variations in carotenoid content present in human skin prior to and after O3 exposure in 141 human subjects. Carotenoids were measured non-invasively using a resonance Raman spectroscopy (RRS)-based photonic device (Pharmanex BioPhotonic Scanner (BPS) Nu Skin Enterprises). In each volunteer, RRS skin carotenoids were determined at baseline and after 15 and 30 min of exposure to O3 0.8 ppm. The data obtained have an indicative value for individual variations in the cutaneous carotenoids, which have been shown to correlate with plasmatic contents. After the first 15 min of O3 exposure, there was a modulation of skin carotenoids, confirming their importance in the maintenance of cutaneous redox homeostasis.
{"title":"Modulation of Cutaneous Carotenoid Content via Ozone Exposure","authors":"F. Cervellati, M. Benedusi, Angela Mastaloudis, V. Nagliati, G. Valacchi","doi":"10.3390/cosmetics10040097","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10040097","url":null,"abstract":"Ozone (O3) is a harmful air pollutant to which we are constantly exposed. Given its strong oxidizing effects and pervasiveness in the air we breathe, O3 is especially damaging to target organs in the respiratory system (e.g., lungs) and the integumentary apparatus (e.g., skin). Both of these systems act as a barrier and are able to limit the penetration of atmospheric pollutants into the body. In this regard, skin—the largest and main barrier against atmospheric intrusions—offers continuous protection against environmental intrusions. The skin is equipped with several defensive molecules that act as protective intracellular antioxidants against oxidative intrusions, including O3. Among these antioxidants are carotenoids, a family of lipophilic phytonutrients that are abundant in fruits and vegetables. It is well established that carotenoids accumulate in the epidermis layer of the skin, where they confer protection against oxidative intrusions and modulate inflammation, and that there is a direct correlation between skin and serum carotenoids level. The present study aimed to evaluate the variations in carotenoid content present in human skin prior to and after O3 exposure in 141 human subjects. Carotenoids were measured non-invasively using a resonance Raman spectroscopy (RRS)-based photonic device (Pharmanex BioPhotonic Scanner (BPS) Nu Skin Enterprises). In each volunteer, RRS skin carotenoids were determined at baseline and after 15 and 30 min of exposure to O3 0.8 ppm. The data obtained have an indicative value for individual variations in the cutaneous carotenoids, which have been shown to correlate with plasmatic contents. After the first 15 min of O3 exposure, there was a modulation of skin carotenoids, confirming their importance in the maintenance of cutaneous redox homeostasis.","PeriodicalId":10735,"journal":{"name":"Cosmetics","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":3.3,"publicationDate":"2023-07-04","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45977519","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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