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Inheritance and Innovation of Folk Textile Mending Techniques under the Traditional Concept of Cherishing Things 传统珍爱物观念下民间纺织缝补技术的传承与创新
Pub Date : 2022-02-28 DOI: 10.5604/01.3001.0015.6467
Xin Wu, Yu-chien Shen
Economised, thorough and skilful utilisation with the concept of cherishing things as its core thought is the basic design concept of traditional creation activities, implying profound philosophical thinking and life philosophy. This article, based on a theoretical interpretation of the traditional concept of cherishing things and combining methods including documents, material objects, manual restoration, etc., firstly expounds the influence and meaning of traditional Chinese folk textile mending in carrying out the concept of cherishing things in the contemporary era; secondly, it focuses on summarising the origin and development of the textile mending industry, pointing out the application prospects of hand darning techniques in nowadays market; and finally, via interpreting the comprehensive design of materials technology, pro-phase protection of preventive mending “smart creation” mode innovation of textiles, etc., this study specifically analyses the inheritance and innovation of folk textile mending techniques, so as to provide references for relevant industries and handicraft enthusiasts in the future.
以惜物为核心思想的节约、彻底、巧妙的运用,是传统创作活动的基本设计理念,蕴含着深刻的哲学思考和人生哲学。本文在对传统珍爱物观进行理论解读的基础上,结合文献资料、实物、手工修复等方法,首先阐述了中国传统民间纺织修补在当代践行珍爱物观的影响和意义;其次,重点总结了纺织织补行业的起源和发展,指出了手工织补技术在当今市场上的应用前景;最后,本研究通过对材料技术综合设计、前期保护预防性修补纺织品“智能创造”模式创新等方面的解读,具体分析民间纺织品修补技术的传承与创新,为未来相关行业和手工艺爱好者提供参考。
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引用次数: 0
Intelligent Prediction Model of the Thermal and Moisture Comfort of the Skin-Tight Garment 紧身服装热湿舒适性智能预测模型
Pub Date : 2022-02-28 DOI: 10.5604/01.3001.0015.6461
Pengpeng Cheng, Jianping Wang, Xianyi Zeng, P. Bruniaux, Daoling Chen
In order to improve the efficiency and accuracy of predicting the thermal and moisture comfort of skin-tight clothing (also called skin-tight underwear), principal component analysis(PCA) is used to reduce the dimensions of related variables and eliminate the multicollinearity relationship among variables. Then, the optimized variables are used as the input parameters of the coupled intelligent model of the genetic algorithm (GA) and back propagation (BP) neural network, and the thermal and moisture comfort of different tights (tight tops and tight trousers) under different sports conditions is analysed. At the same time, in order to verify the superiority of the genetic algorithm and BP neural network intelligent model, the prediction results of GA-BP, PCA-BP and BP are compared with this model. The results show that principal component analysis (PCA) improves the accuracy and adaptability of the GA-BP neural network in predicting thermal and humidity comfort. The forecasting effect of the PCA-GA-BP neural network is obviously better than that of the GA-BP, PCA-BP, BP model, which can accurately predict the thermal and moisture comfort of tight-fitting sportswear. The model has better forecasting accuracy and a simpler structure.
为了提高紧身服装(又称紧身内衣)热湿舒适性预测的效率和准确性,采用主成分分析(PCA)对相关变量进行降维,消除变量之间的多重共线性关系。然后,将优化后的变量作为遗传算法(GA)和反向传播(BP)神经网络耦合智能模型的输入参数,分析了不同运动条件下不同紧身衣(紧身上衣和紧身裤)的热湿舒适性。同时,为了验证遗传算法和BP神经网络智能模型的优越性,将GA-BP、PCA-BP和BP的预测结果与该模型进行了比较。结果表明,主成分分析(PCA)提高了GA-BP神经网络预测热湿舒适性的准确性和适应性。PCA-GA-BP神经网络预测效果明显优于GA-BP、PCA-BP、BP模型,能准确预测紧身运动服的热湿舒适性。该模型预测精度高,结构简单。
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引用次数: 0
Geometrical Model to Determine Sewing Thread Consumption for Stitch Class 406 确定406级针脚缝纫线耗的几何模型
Pub Date : 2021-12-31 DOI: 10.5604/01.3001.0015.2726
Ateeq ur Rehman, A. Rasheed, Zafar Javed, M. Naeem, M. Ramzan, M. Karahan
This study aimed at developing a geometrical model for predicting the sewing thread consumption of stitch class 406. Stitch class 400 is a multi-thread chain stitch which consumes a less amount of thread as compared with stitch class 500 but more thread as compared with stitch class 300. Sewing thread calculation plays a significant role in determining the exact amount of thread for completing a garment and predicting the right quantity of thread for bulk production. The geometrical model developed was used for predicting sewing thread consumption by using different factors like stitch density (8 and 12 SPI), material thickness (2, 4 and 6 layers of fabric), and type of material (denim, knitted and fleece). The model was validated with a total of 18 samples sewn with different kinds of fabric, SPI, and material thickness. It was concluded that the model could predict sewing thread consumption with more than 97.18% accuracy.
本研究旨在建立预测406针级缝纫线耗的几何模型。400级线迹是一种多线链式线迹,与500级线迹相比,400级线迹消耗较少,但与300级线迹相比,400级线迹消耗较多。缝纫线的计算对于确定一件服装的准确完成线量和预测大批量生产的合适线量起着重要的作用。所开发的几何模型通过使用不同的因素,如针迹密度(8和12 SPI)、材料厚度(2层、4层和6层织物)和材料类型(牛仔布、针织和羊毛)来预测缝纫线消耗。用不同面料、SPI和材料厚度缝制的18个样品对模型进行了验证。结果表明,该模型预测缝纫线消耗的准确率在97.18%以上。
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引用次数: 0
Characterisation of CVC Yarn with Different Drafting Ratios in Vortex Spinning 不同牵伸比的CVC纱涡旋纺纱性能研究
Pub Date : 2021-12-31 DOI: 10.5604/01.3001.0015.2723
M. Repon, T. Islam, Mahbubur Rahman, A. Malek, Mohammad Abdul Jalili
This study focuses on the impacts of the draft on the characteristics of MVS produced CVC blended yarn. The output of a finisher drawn sliver with a linear density of 3.54 ktex was converted into yarns of 18.45 tex (32 s/1 Ne) with the help of two separate delivery speeds: 350 and 410 m/min when possessing all constant spinning parameters. The properties of the yarn such as yarn anomaly, imperfections, tensile behaviour, and hairiness were investigated. The significance of independent variables and their relations with the physico-mechanical characteristics of CVC yarn was examined using two-way ANOVA at a 95% level of confidence.
本文研究了牵伸对MVS生产的CVC混纺纱性能的影响。在保持所有纺纱参数不变的情况下,采用350和410两种不同的输送速度,将线密度为3.54千斤的精梳条的产量转化为18.45千斤(32秒/1 Ne)的纱线。考察了纱线的异常、缺陷、拉伸性能和毛羽等性能。自变量的显著性及其与CVC纱线物理力学特性的关系采用双向方差分析,置信度为95%。
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引用次数: 0
Causal Relationship of Market Orientation and Customer-Based Performance of Fashion Apparel Brands 时尚服装品牌市场导向与顾客导向绩效的因果关系
Pub Date : 2021-12-31 DOI: 10.5604/01.3001.0015.2716
Rana Faizan Gul, Dunnan Liu, K. Jamil, Zahid Hussain, Fazal Hussain Awan, Aliya Anwar, G. Qin
This study was conducted to determine the impact of market orientation on the consumer-based performance of fashion apparel brands. The study also reveals the moderating effect of employee orientation on market orientation and consumer-based performance. The sample of 270 respondents of this study consists of managerial staff who have decisive power with regard to apparel brands in Pakistan . The findings of this study express that all three dimensions of market orientation have a significant and positive impact on the consumer-based performance of fashion apparel brands. Furthermore, the study finds no moderation between customer orientation and consumer-based performance, while for the remaining two dimensions, there is a positive moderation. The management of fashion apparel firms must give considerable importance to market orientation to enhance overall consumer-based performance. This study contributes valuable literature because it focuses on the fashion apparel industry, which is most important for very nearly everyone in the present era.
本研究旨在确定市场导向对时尚服装品牌以消费者为基础的绩效的影响。研究还揭示了员工导向对市场导向和消费者导向绩效的调节作用。本研究的样本为270名受访者,包括对巴基斯坦服装品牌具有决定性权力的管理人员。本研究的结果表明,市场导向的三个维度都对时尚服装品牌的消费者导向绩效有显著的正向影响。此外,研究发现客户导向和消费者为基础的绩效之间没有调节,而在其余两个维度上,存在正调节。时尚服装企业的管理必须相当重视市场导向,以提高整体的消费者为基础的绩效。这项研究贡献了有价值的文献,因为它关注的是时尚服装行业,这对当今时代几乎每个人都是最重要的。
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引用次数: 12
Study of Parameters Influencing the Production and Improvement of the Launch System in a Production Department: Case Study in the Clothing Industry in Tunisia 影响生产的参数研究及生产部门启动系统的改进:以突尼斯服装行业为例
Pub Date : 2021-12-31 DOI: 10.5604/01.3001.0015.2715
Lakhal Amira, Sejri Néjib
This study was carried out in a clothing company to determine the parameters that influence the decline in production. The results showed that the parameter “Machine failures” had a 34.6% effect on production, and “lack of versatility” 19.7%, while the parameter “heavy launch” had an effect of 17.1%, “lack of supplies” 9%, touch-ups 3%, and “lack of cut parts” 2%. Indeed, the application of lean and six sigma tools and especially the D.M.A.I.C and TPM methods are two tools that improve efficiency and productivity in a production workshop. Thus, a grid was developed to monitor and maintain the effectiveness of improvement actions and for the continuity of the spirit of improvement within the production department without forgetting that teamwork makes it possible to improve the result.
本研究在一家服装公司进行,以确定影响生产下降的参数。结果表明,参数“机器故障”对生产的影响为34.6%,参数“缺乏通用性”对生产的影响为19.7%,参数“重型发射”对生产的影响为17.1%,参数“缺乏供应”的影响为9%,参数“补漆”的影响为3%,参数“缺乏切割零件”的影响为2%。事实上,精益和六西格玛工具的应用,特别是dm.a.i.c和TPM方法是提高生产车间效率和生产力的两种工具。因此,开发了一个网格来监控和保持改进行动的有效性,并在生产部门内保持改进精神的连续性,而不忘记团队合作使改进结果成为可能。
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引用次数: 0
Influence of Temperature on the Properties of Cellulose Iβ based on Molecular Dynamics Simulations 基于分子动力学模拟的温度对纤维素Iβ性能的影响
Pub Date : 2021-12-31 DOI: 10.5604/01.3001.0015.2719
Shuang Huang, Xin Wu, Peixing Li
Natural plants, such as cotton and linen, are rich in cellulose Iβ. The properties of cellulose Iβ under different temperatures was studied using molecular dynamics simulations. Firstly, the crystal of cellulose Iβ was built. To verify the model, the X-ray fibre diffraction and thermal expansion coefficients were calculated, which were found to agree with experimental results. Then the Mulliken population of the bonds were computed and the movement of the centre chain and hydrogen bonds studied over the range 300-550 K using a PCFF force field. The results of the Mulliken population reveal the three steps of pyrolysis. The higher the temperature is, the more intensely the movement of the centre chain is. However, the impact of temperature on the movement of the centre chain is not obvious. From 300 K to 550 K, the total number of hydrogen bonds decreased by only 20%. Moreocer, the rupture of intrachain hydrogen bonds and the formation of interchain hydrogen bonds at 400 K ~ 450 K temperature occurred.
天然植物,如棉花和亚麻,富含纤维素Iβ。采用分子动力学模拟方法研究了纤维素Iβ在不同温度下的性能。首先,构建纤维素Iβ晶体。为了验证该模型,计算了x射线纤维衍射系数和热膨胀系数,与实验结果吻合较好。然后计算了键的Mulliken居布数,并利用PCFF力场在300-550 K范围内研究了中心链和氢键的运动。Mulliken种群的结果揭示了热解的三个步骤。温度越高,中心链的运动越剧烈。而温度对中心链运动的影响不明显。从300 K到550 K,氢键总数只减少了20%。在400 K ~ 450 K温度下,链内氢键断裂,链间氢键形成。
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引用次数: 1
Effect of Industrial Washing and Laundering on the Colour Values of Knitted Denim 工业洗涤和洗涤对针织牛仔布颜色值的影响
Pub Date : 2021-12-31 DOI: 10.5604/01.3001.0015.2725
S. Mezarcıöz
One of the most distinctive features of denim is that the warp yarn is dyed with indigo dye and the weft yarns are not dyed, i.e. white. Although warp yarns dyed with indigo dye are woven with different woven fabric weaves, classical denim fabrics weave are produced with 3/1 Z twill weave. The search for new products in denim has led businesses to produce denim-looking knitted fabrics. Denim-looking knitted garments are subjected to industrial washing at the production phase and repetitive household washing processes in daily life. Repeated washing and drying processes cause changes that can affect user satisfaction in terms of losing the colour of the fabric. Therefore, in this study, the colour values of knitted denim fabrics produced as an alternative to denim fabrics manufactured by traditional methods after various industrial (rinse, enzyme and stone washing) and home washes (5, 10, 20 times) were examined. For this, the CIELab colour system was taken as the basis for colour analysis on a spectrophotometer device. As a result of the washing processes performed on each fabric sample (household washing and rinse, enzyme, stone washing applications), it was observed that there were differences in colour values depending on the fibre type, loop yarn length, fabric construction and washing process.
牛仔布最显著的特点之一是经纱用靛蓝染料染色,纬纱不染,即白色。虽然用靛蓝染料染色的经纱是用不同的机织织物编织而成的,但经典的牛仔织物是用3/1 Z斜纹织物编织而成的。对牛仔布新产品的探索促使企业生产看起来像牛仔布的针织面料。看起来像牛仔的针织服装在生产阶段受到工业洗涤和日常生活中重复的家庭洗涤过程的影响。反复的洗涤和干燥过程会导致织物失去颜色,从而影响用户的满意度。因此,在本研究中,研究了不同工业水洗(漂洗、酶洗和石洗)和家庭水洗(5次、10次、20次)后,作为传统方法生产的牛仔织物替代品生产的针织牛仔织物的颜色值。为此,以CIELab颜色系统为基础,在分光光度计装置上进行颜色分析。由于对每个织物样品进行了洗涤过程(家庭洗涤和漂洗,酶,石洗涤应用),观察到根据纤维类型,环纱长度,织物结构和洗涤过程,颜色值存在差异。
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引用次数: 0
Scouring of Sheep Wool Using an Acoustic Ultrasound Wave 超声波对羊毛的精练
Pub Date : 2021-12-31 DOI: 10.5604/01.3001.0015.2721
Z. Czaplicki, Edyta Matyjas-Zgondek, S. Strzelecki
The paper describes a method of scouring sheep wool using ultrasound.The inspiration to start work on the use of ultrasound in the process of scouring sheep wool was positive results that had already been achieved for alpaca wool. Due to the fact that sheep wool has many more impurites than alpaca wool, the scouring process is divided into two stages. The first involves the removal of faeces from the wool, which may be up to about 35% of the impurities of sheep wool, while the second stage involves the scouring cycle, wherein the remaining impurities are removed. The ultrasonic scouring process uses domestic merino wool heavily clad, particularly, by faeces. In this study, detergent solutions, alkali soap and sodium carbonate were used. The scouring of wool was carried out with a special apparatus equipped with an ultrasonic generator, at a frequency of 40 kHz. To determine the optimal conditions for scouring sheep wool that could affect the amount of impurities removed, the following parameters were examined: the effect of the scouring time, the concentration of detergents, and the scouring bath ratio. The study resulted in achieving optimal scouring parameters that ensured a satisfactory level of the removal of wool impurities.
本文介绍了一种利用超声波对羊毛进行洗净的方法。在羊毛洗涤过程中使用超声波的灵感来源于已经在羊驼毛上取得的积极成果。由于羊毛比羊驼毛含有更多的杂质,所以精练过程分为两个阶段。第一阶段涉及从羊毛中去除粪便,其中可能高达约35%的羊毛杂质,而第二阶段涉及洗涤循环,其中去除剩余的杂质。超声波洗涤过程使用国内美利奴羊毛厚包,特别是由粪便。在本研究中,使用洗涤剂溶液、碱皂和碳酸钠。羊毛的精练是用一种特殊的设备进行的,该设备配备了超声波发生器,频率为40千赫。为了确定精练羊毛的最佳工艺条件,考察了精练时间、洗涤剂浓度和精练浴比对精练羊毛杂质去除率的影响。该研究的结果是获得了最佳的洗涤参数,确保了令人满意的羊毛杂质去除水平。
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引用次数: 2
Numerical Investigation of the Air Gap Distribution of Jackets with Different Fits and its Influence on Human Temperature 不同配合夹克气隙分布及其对人体温度影响的数值研究
Pub Date : 2021-12-31 DOI: 10.5604/01.3001.0015.2727
M. Awais, S. Krzywinski, Y. Kyosev
The air gaps underneath clothing have a great influence on the thermal regulation of the human body. The distribution of the air gaps depends on the shape of the human body as well as on clothing style, fit, and deformation properties. This paper reports on the influence of clothing fit on thermophysiological parameters of the human body through thermal simulation. Four different fits of jacket and a test person were considered for the investigation and for simulation purposes. The results of the simulation concluded that different thermal regulations of the human body were exhibited for different fits of the jacket, which is due to distinct air gaps between the human body and clothing for each fit of the jacket. This research work presents a fast method to predict the influence of clothing fit on thermal comfort, which is usually studied by a time-consuming, laborious method – the wear trial.
衣服内部的气隙对人体的热调节有很大的影响。气隙的分布不仅取决于人体的形状,还取决于服装的款式、合身度和变形性能。本文通过热模拟研究了服装合身对人体热生理参数的影响。为了调查和模拟的目的,考虑了四种不同的夹套配合和一个测试人员。仿真结果表明,不同尺寸的夹克衫表现出不同的人体热规律,这是由于不同尺寸的夹克衫,人体与衣服之间的气隙不同。本文提出了一种快速预测服装合身度对热舒适影响的方法,该方法的研究通常采用耗时费力的试验方法。
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引用次数: 0
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Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe
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