International Journal of Cosmetic Science最新文献

Background: Amidst increasing global levels of stress and a growing concern for well-being, facial massage gestures have emerged as an option to improve the comfort and well-being of women.

Objective: To characterize four emotional indices (stress, comfort, valence, and arousal) and their evolution when induced from two experimental and standardized facial gestures (Q and S).

Methods: This prospective, monocentric, intra-subject comparison study was conducted in Japan where 17 healthy female subjects aged 38-55 years were enrolled. Two experimental standardized gestures (Q and S) were administered in pairs to the subjects over 2 days. Gesture Q was a 60 s smoothing and hand press gesture while Gesture S was a smoothing gesture alone. Prior to each application, subjects cleansed their faces and completed a self-assessment questionnaire. During the procedure, subjects were fitted with a portable electroencephalogram (EEG). A beautician applied a cosmetic product to the eye and cheek area based on specific gestures (P/R control gesture followed by Q, or S). EEG measurements were taken before, during, and after the application. Subsequently, participants filled out another self-assessment questionnaire.

Important results: Gesture Q was identified as less stressful, more comfortable during application, and higher positive valence after application which was aligned with self-perception questionnaire results. The portable EEG analyser further revealed the evolution of emotions during application whereby Gesture Q induced a constant and positive evolution of emotion after 20 s, while Gesture S showed a slight decrease of stress only after 40 s and induced a dominant feeling of lower valence after application, associated with a negative feeling.

Conclusion: The portable EEG analyser showed high potential to capture and differentiate between emotions during the beauty experience. Gesture Q positively influenced the emotional state of subjects, which was complimentary to what subjects reported. Emotions captured during the evolution of gestures helped identify key moments of application. Combined with the self-questionnaire, these findings contribute to the development of user experience.

Objective: The primary objective of this study was to investigate the biological activities of freeze-dried Ganoderma lucidum (Reishi) extract obtained from hazelnut pruning waste and to compare its antioxidant, tyrosinase inhibitory and cytotoxic properties with two widely used cosmetic actives-argireline peptide and α-arbutin. Additionally, the study aimed to develop a topical cream formulation containing Reishi extract and to assess its microbiological safety, preservative efficacy and physicochemical stability under controlled environmental conditions. By integrating bioactivity evaluation with formulation performance, the research sought to determine the potential applicability of Reishi extract as a natural and multifunctional cosmetic ingredient suitable for anti-aging and skin-brightening applications.

Methods: The antioxidant capacity of Reishi extract, argireline peptide and α-arbutin was determined using a copper(II)-based total antioxidant capacity assay. Tyrosinase inhibitory activity was measured with human tyrosinase sourced from MNT-1 melanoma cells, while cytotoxicity and safe dose limits were determined in HaCaT human keratinocyte cells via the AlamarBlue® method. A topical cream formulation was prepared using a multi-phase emulsification technique and characterized physicochemically. Microbiological safety was assessed according to Turkish Cosmetic Regulations, and preservative efficacy was determined through challenge testing. Stability assessments included temperature cycling, long-term storage at different temperatures and centrifugation tests, monitoring visual, physicochemical and microbiological parameters over a three-month period.

Results: Reishi extract demonstrated 861 μmol TE/g antioxidant activity, 30% tyrosinase inhibition and a broader safety margin compared with argireline peptide and α-arbutin, which exhibited cytotoxicity at lower concentrations. The formulated cream retained a skin-compatible pH and stable viscosity, while showing no signs of phase separation, colour change or integrity loss under all storage conditions. Microbiological analysis confirmed microbial counts below regulatory limits, and challenge testing revealed rapid log reductions in all tested microorganisms, satisfying the acceptance criteria for preservative efficacy. Stability studies supported the physical robustness and microbiological safety of the final product throughout the evaluation period.

Conclusion: Overall, the findings highlight Reishi extract as a bioactive-rich, safe and stable natural ingredient with strong potential for incorporation into cosmetic formulations. Its antioxidant performance, moderate tyrosinase inhibition and compatibility within the cream matrix support its use in multifunctional anti-aging and skin-brightening products.

Objective: The pursuit of glowing skin has gained momentum worldwide with glow beauty claims having almost doubled globally from 2017 (13%) to 2021 (25%) and continues to trend to date. Some African countries are characterized by warm, humid climatic conditions. As such, African women pursue a specific type of skin glow. However, African consumers have not strictly defined glowing skin, and standardized instrumental methods or terminology to quantify and decode skin glow remain limited across diverse phototypes, thus creating a gap between consumer perception and objective evaluation of skin glow. A unique opportunity therefore exists to scientifically decode African skin glow for new product development to help consumers achieve this ideal skin quality.

Methods: This two-part study was conducted in South Africa (SA) on subjects with Fitzpatrick scale phototypes IV-VI and investigated skin glow on the face and body in women aged 18-45 years. Part 1 explored the vocabulary of skin glow through qualitative focus groups (n = 15) and quantitative interviews (n = 131), while Part 2 focused on the instrumental quantification of glow. Due to the complexity of the findings, Part 2 will be addressed in a follow up article.

Results: Routine analysis showed that participants used between 4 and 7 products on average to achieve glow. In SA, the top descriptors for face and body skin glow were 'smooth' (44% for face and 47% for body), 'healthy-looking' (44% for face and 44% for body), 'radiant' (53% for face and 35% for body) and 'glowing' (46% for face and 40% for body). Dark marks and skin tone heterogeneity were key concerns that hindered glow.

Conclusion: Our findings showed that SA consumers used varying terminology to describe skin glow, utilized different products to achieve it and experienced unique challenges that hindered their skin glow. Additionally, most consumers emphasized a strong link between hydration, moisturization and glow, indicating that these elements are essential for glowing skin. This study contributes towards addressing the paucity of literature that explores the attributes of African skin of women living in Africa and is the first to decode the perception of skin glow amongst these consumers.

Objective: In this manuscript, we report that crosslinked hyaluronic acid (HA), a skincare active with well-documented hydration and skin protection benefits, can act as a penetration enhancer for the topical delivery of skincare actives. High-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) and matrix-assisted laser desorption/ionization mass spectrometry imaging (MALDI-MSI) studies revealed that crosslinked HA can boost the topical delivery of both small-molecule actives and macromolecules alike.

Methods: Porcine ear skin and human skin explants were used for the HPLC and MALDI-MSI studies, respectively. Topical delivery studies were conducted with simple cosmetic vehicles containing either the active of interest or the active of interest plus crosslinked HA. Delivery studies were conducted for 24 h, after which skin explants were analysed to measure the level of topically delivered active.

Results: HPLC analysis revealed that crosslinked HA selectively boosted the topical delivery of hydrophilic actives, which we attributed to the strong water-binding properties of crosslinked HA. MALDI-MSI revealed that crosslinked HA could also boost the topical delivery of a medium-molecular-weight HA species (~200-400 kDa), demonstrating that the penetrating enhancing properties of crosslinked HA benefit both small molecules and macromolecules alike.

Conclusions: Crosslinked HA can boost the topical delivery of relevant skincare actives that range in size from small-molecule actives (<500 Da) to large macromolecules (>10 000 Da) like linear HA itself. Combined with its well-established and previously documented skin benefits, this makes crosslinked HA a highly versatile ingredient for topical skincare products.

Objective: Solar lentigines and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) are common pigmentation disorders, and they are usually differentiated by a trained dermatologist. Accurate identification of the spot type is essential for providing patients with the most appropriate skin treatment. The aim of this study was to evaluate the capacity of hyperspectral imaging (HSI) in characterizing and discriminating solar lentigines from PIH, that is, to identify the colorimetric features and chromophore concentrations associated with each pigmentation disorder.

Methods: Acquisition of HSI was performed using a liquid-crystal tuneable filter spectral scanning spectrometer. The recruited panel consisted of female Japanese subjects (n = 11) with one solar lentigo on both the left and right cheeks. Five of these subjects also had one PIH spot on both the left and right cheeks.

Results: Significant differences were found in the mean difference relative to the surrounding skin between PIH spots and solar lentigines for the following features (all p < 0.05): ΔOxyhaemoglobin (PIH spots (2.3 ± 1.1) × 10^-2 g·cm·L^-1 vs. solar lentigines (-0.1 ± 0.6) × 10^-2 g·cm·L^-1), ΔDeoxyhaemoglobin (PIH spots (6.3 ± 2.6) × 10^-2 g·cm·L^-1 vs. solar lentigines (0.9 ± 1.7) × 10^-2 g·cm·L^-1), Δa* values (PIH spots 5.3 ± 2.0 vs. solar lentigines 1.6 ± 1.3) and Δb* values (PIH spots -1.2 ± 0.7 vs. solar lentigines -0.1 ± 0.4). No significant difference was observed in ΔL* values and ΔMelanin content between the two hyperpigmentation types (all p > 0.05).

Conclusion: Compared with solar lentigines, PIH spots displayed higher haemoglobin content and Δa* values and lower Δb* values. To strengthen these preliminary findings, further clinical studies need to be conducted on a larger cohort, aiming at confirming the benefit of HSI in accurately differentiating these two skin pigmentation disorders to support clinical assessment.

Objective: Nearly 50% of the pineapple by weight is discarded after harvesting due to various processing methods, resulting in huge amounts of waste containing beneficial compounds and metabolites that have high valorization potential across multiple industries. Agricultural waste, expanding industrialism and human transportation have increased airborne pollution and ultraviolet (UV) exposure, which exerts negative effects on skin, hair and overall health. As such, an eco-conscious cosmetic ingredient creating a physical barrier between the skin surface and environmental aggressors with properties to combat the subsequent cellular effects of these harmful factors is highly sought after. Accordingly, we investigated the capacity of an upcycled film-forming pineapple biopolymer to provide a comprehensive array of benefits for utilization in skincare, sunscreen and haircare formulations while facilitating environmental sustainability.

Methods: We developed a novel Pineapple Leaf Fibre Crosspolymer (PALF) by subjecting discarded pineapple leaf fibres to a proprietary manufacturing process involving alkali treatment, acidic hydrolysis and yeast fermentation. Next, efficacy was examined to determine the cosmetic potential of PALF in skincare, sunscreen and haircare formulations. In vitro and ex vivo experiments evaluated PALF for antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antipollution, UV protection and pigment-dispersing properties. Furthermore, in vivo studies were implemented to elucidate the impact of PALF on dermal carbon deposition, long-wear foundation transfer resistance, skin hydration, barrier function, sensory experience and perceived hair benefits.

Results: The in vitro and ex vivo experiments demonstrated PALF reduced excessive oxidative stress, quelled inflammation, inhibited the negative effects of airborne pollution and UV exposure, while exhibiting effective pigment-dispersing properties. With respect to in vivo studies, PALF reduced dermal carbon deposition while improving long-wear foundation transfer resistance, skin hydration, barrier function, sensory experience and perceived hair benefits.

Conclusion: Taken together, the eco-friendly PALF protects against harmful environmental aggressors while exerting other beneficial effects on the skin and hair. Importantly, PALF forms a physical barrier on the skin surface, limiting pollution contact with the skin with the capacity to blunt the cellular effects of harmful environmental factors. Collectively, the present investigation demonstrates PALF retains a comprehensive array of benefits in a wide range of cosmetic formulations and applications while facilitating environmental stability.

Objective: In recent years, consumer expectations for effectiveness have been increasing. To address these issues, we used the novel interfacial scientific approaches: liquids with low surface tension, a novel vesicle dispersion using polyglycerol fatty acid esters, which imitated the structure of the cell membrane. The aim is that the vesicle uniformly spreads along the skin surface and makes a larger amount of active ingredients penetrate into the skin.

Methods: To prepare a vesicle dispersion, research on phase equilibria including a lamellar liquid crystal was carried out. Surface tension and wetting behaviour were checked for the physical property of the system. To identify the skin penetration of active ingredients, tape stripping and human tests were carried out in addition to the imaging of ex vivo skin.

Results: It was found that a specific OH/C ratio forms lamellar liquid crystals and disperses stably in aqueous dispersion as vesicles. Surface tension of the vesicle dispersion was significantly lower, and the wetting behaviour was more than eight times better than the conventional micellar system. Tape stripping tests revealed that the skin penetration of brightening ingredients was significantly higher than that of the conventional micellar system, of which relevant skin condition was recognized by panellists by a human test.

Conclusion: Through this research, we developed a novel, penetrating base system with naturally derived surfactant in which functions work properly for both short and long periods of time after application.

Human skin is a complex ecosystem that hosts diverse species of microorganisms. Unbalanced conditions caused by intrinsic and/or extrinsic factors can lead to dysbiosis, presenting symptoms, such as dryness, high transepidermal water loss, reduced barrier protection, premature ageing, and in severe cases, inflammatory dermatoses. Strategies to maintain the skin microbiome balance are becoming increasingly suggested, with prebiotic, probiotic, or postbiotic ingredients promoting the diversity and relative abundance of important microorganisms. Topical products directly influence this balance, both traditional ingredients and specific active ingredients. The concentration and combination of these ingredients, as well as the pH of the final product, are extrinsic characteristics that can affect homeostatic skin condition. Focused on repairing or preserving the skin microbiota, microbiome-friendly cosmetics are gaining prominence in the cosmetics industry, with a focus on reducing or replacing ingredients with adverse effects on skin microbiota or adding positive compounds for the microbiota. This review approaches the main characteristics of the skin microbiome, in symbiosis and dysbiosis, elucidates strategies for skin microbiota rebalance, and addresses the challenges of developing microbiome-friendly products through studies of the interaction between skin microbiome and substantial classes of cosmetic ingredients, such as surfactants, lipophilic compounds, preservatives, fragrances, vitamins, and UV filters. The presented findings elucidate the relationship between the host, the skin microbiome, and the use of cosmetics, which could serve as a tool for the development of microbiome-friendly cosmetics. Given the growing popularity of this topic, we also highlight the need for further research focused on the dynamics between the skin microbiome and cosmetic ingredients.

Objective: Compared to at-home hair washing, the salon shampooing experience offers a different sensory landscape for the client. Visual and tactile interaction with the shampoo foam itself is minimized, thereby emphasizing the olfactory, tactile (scalp) and auditory dimensions of the experience. This sensory shift presents a novel opportunity to investigate the impact of the often-overlooked aspects of the hair washing experience, especially shampoo foaming auditory perception.

Methods: The present study uses binaural recording techniques to explore the sound of shampoo foam from the perspective of a person whose hair is being washed (salon context). It is designed to answer the question of whether participants can differentiate different shampoo foam sounds and to quantify acoustic differences among the foam sounds. It then examines the emotional and functional implications this has for the shampooing experience. In addition, a combined approach including psychoacoustic analysis of the foaming sound, free listing and Check-all-that-apply tests has been employed to ascertain the functional and emotional connotations perceived by participants.

Results: The results show that participants can differentiate different sounds, and that these different sounds form clusters based on their acoustic, emotional and functional profiles. The initial phase of lathering tends to be a separate cluster, more linked to high arousal and negative emotions, whereas later phases tend to be more positive. Different shampoos also show different functional and emotional evocations.

Conclusion: In sum, the results suggest that the sound of shampoo foam has the potential to (1) affect a salon customer's hair washing experience, (2) serve as an effective tool for marketing and even (3) influence the design of the shampoo or salon service itself.

Objective: Consumers increasingly seek vibrant, healthy-looking hair characterized by enhanced shine, colour longevity, smoothness and optimal fibre alignment. This attribute significantly influences self-confidence and aesthetic satisfaction. However, the beauty industry lacks standardized, quantifiable parameters for measuring hair vibrancy, creating a critical gap between consumer expectations and scientific validation. This study aimed to establish a standardized, quantifiable framework for assessing hair vibrancy by integrating consumer perceptions, expert evaluations and instrumental analyses, thereby bridging the industry's measurement gap.

Materials and methods: We characterized hair vibrancy by integrating consumer perception (n = 24, across two age cohorts), expert evaluation and instrumental analysis. The investigation used internal hair colour formulas shade 3 (dark brown) and fashion shade 6 (cherry red) on grey hair. Instrumental analyses included spectrophotometry for L* values, BNT lustre measurements for shine and the Dia-Stron MTT175 for smoothness and fibre alignment.

Results: Strong in vitro correlations (r = 0.86) were observed between instrumental and expert assessments for colour and shine. Instrumental studies on treated versus untreated hair further demonstrated product impact on colour, shine, alignment and smoothness.

Conclusion: Hair vibrancy is operationally defined as a multidimensional perceptual attribute, integrating luminosity (colour/shine), structural integrity (smoothness/alignment) and apparent vitality, perceived visually and tactilely. These findings provide a robust framework for understanding hair vibrancy, facilitating faster product formulation and stronger claim substantiation. This study clarifies key attributes for ideal hair colour vibrancy, guiding product development to meet consumer expectations.