European Commission Regulation (EU) n°2023/1545 introduced the concept of grouping names in the cosmetics sector in July 2023. These groups bring together allergenic substances with the same level of skin sensitization. Their purpose is to lighten the list of ingredients on cosmetic packaging, by grouping together substances deemed to be similar under the same name. As this classification is based on a single toxic effect − skin sensitization − the present study aims to analyse the relevance of these groupings with regard to other toxic effects of substances in the same group.
Methods
This study was carried out by consulting an available database, various reports from 5 committees, 2 books and 5 articles in order to complete the toxicological profile of each substance. Then, in order to highlight any discrepancies within the classification, the worst cases were identified. For this purpose, the data for each substance in a group were compared, and in the event of greater criticality for a toxic effect, this was qualified as a worst case. In addition, similar toxic effects between several substances within the same group were also recorded. The aim of this additional research was to validate the definition of the grouping name and the similarities between substances in the same group.
Results
From the 17 grouping names, 5 presented worst cases. Two groups had 2 worst cases and the others only one. In total, from the 7 worst cases detected, 3 were due to the toxic effect “skin irritation”. In most cases, the substances in the groupings shared the presence or absence of risk. Only the degree of risk criticality varied.
Conclusion
Classification by grouping names appears justified regarding the similarities between substances, particularly in terms of skin sensitization. However, the presence of worst cases qualifies it and highlights the importance of being vigilant when assessing the risk of cosmetic products including these grouping names in their list of ingredients.
{"title":"Allergens grouping names on packaging: Are the substances similar enough to ensure safety? The worst case scenarios question this","authors":"C. Vandamme, M. Guillaume, S. Pirnay","doi":"10.1111/ics.12979","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12979","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>European Commission Regulation (EU) n°2023/1545 introduced the concept of grouping names in the cosmetics sector in July 2023. These groups bring together allergenic substances with the same level of skin sensitization. Their purpose is to lighten the list of ingredients on cosmetic packaging, by grouping together substances deemed to be similar under the same name. As this classification is based on a single toxic effect − skin sensitization − the present study aims to analyse the relevance of these groupings with regard to other toxic effects of substances in the same group.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>This study was carried out by consulting an available database, various reports from 5 committees, 2 books and 5 articles in order to complete the toxicological profile of each substance. Then, in order to highlight any discrepancies within the classification, the worst cases were identified. For this purpose, the data for each substance in a group were compared, and in the event of greater criticality for a toxic effect, this was qualified as a worst case. In addition, similar toxic effects between several substances within the same group were also recorded. The aim of this additional research was to validate the definition of the grouping name and the similarities between substances in the same group.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>From the 17 grouping names, 5 presented worst cases. Two groups had 2 worst cases and the others only one. In total, from the 7 worst cases detected, 3 were due to the toxic effect “skin irritation”. In most cases, the substances in the groupings shared the presence or absence of risk. Only the degree of risk criticality varied.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Classification by grouping names appears justified regarding the similarities between substances, particularly in terms of skin sensitization. However, the presence of worst cases qualifies it and highlights the importance of being vigilant when assessing the risk of cosmetic products including these grouping names in their list of ingredients.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 6","pages":"895-904"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-05-31","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141179385","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Xinjue Kuang, Jiajing Cai, Yingqi Li, Xiaoxiao Yang, Huimin Zi, Feifei Wang, Fan Yi
Objective
We conducted a study on women with sensitive skin of various skin tones to analyse their skin characteristics and preferences for foundation shades.
Methods
Volunteers were categorized based on their individual typological angle, and their preferences were assessed using self-perception and software-based mass aesthetic assessment. The Baumann Questionnaire is a valuable tool for identifying patients with sensitive skin and gaining a comprehensive understanding of their skin sensitivity. The skin characteristics of two groups were compared using a more suitable classification method.
Results
Individuals diagnosed with sensitive skin typically have skin tones classified as Types I, II and III, with Type I being the most common in sensitive skin cases. The sensitive group exhibited higher levels of transepidermal water loss, lighter skin tone, lower yellowness, increased glossiness, higher haemoglobin content, more acne, fewer blackheads, and fewer pores. Among them, Type I skin is characterized by lower elasticity, increased oiliness, higher hydration levels and fewer visible pores. Type II skin is characterized by lower hydration levels, higher oiliness and increased redness. Type III exhibits more pores, decreased oiliness and enhanced elasticity. Foundations No. 2 and No. 3 are fairer than foundations No. 1 and No. 4. In the self-assessment, Type I and Type II subjects preferred No. 3, while Type III subjects preferred No. 1 and No. 4 because they matched their skin tone. The results of the software evaluation showed that popular aesthetics preferred Type I and Type II to use No. 2, and Type III to use No. 2 and No. 3, as they resulted in a fairer complexion.
Conclusion
Sensitive skin of different skin tone types confronts different skin problems. The findings also highlight the public's inclination towards lighter foundation shades, despite the common practice of selecting shades that harmonize with one's inherent skin tone.
目的我们对不同肤色的敏感性皮肤女性进行了一项研究，以分析她们的皮肤特征和对粉底色调的偏好：方法：根据个人类型学角度对志愿者进行分类，并使用自我感知和基于软件的大众审美评估对她们的偏好进行评估。鲍曼问卷是识别敏感性皮肤患者和全面了解其皮肤敏感性的重要工具。使用更合适的分类方法对两组患者的皮肤特征进行了比较：结果：被诊断为敏感性皮肤的人的肤色通常分为 I 型、II 型和 III 型，其中 I 型在敏感性皮肤病例中最为常见。敏感组的经表皮失水率较高，肤色较浅，黄度较低，光泽度增加，血红蛋白含量较高，痤疮较多，黑头较少，毛孔较小。其中，I 型皮肤的特点是弹性较差、油性增加、水合水平较高、可见毛孔较少。II 型皮肤的特点是含水量较低、油脂较多、红血丝增加。III 型皮肤的特点是毛孔更明显、油脂减少、弹性增强。2 号和 3 号粉底液比 1 号和 4 号粉底液更白皙。在自我评估中，I 型和 II 型受试者更喜欢 3 号，而 III 型受试者则更喜欢 1 号和 4 号，因为它们与他们的肤色相匹配。软件评估结果表明，大众美学家更倾向于 I 型和 II 型受试者使用 2 号，III 型受试者使用 2 号和 3 号，因为它们能使肤色更白皙：结论：不同肤色类型的敏感皮肤面临着不同的皮肤问题。结论：不同肤色类型的敏感皮肤面临不同的皮肤问题。研究结果还突显了公众对浅色粉底的偏好，尽管选择与个人固有肤色相协调的色调是常见的做法。
{"title":"Characteristics of and foundation application among Chinese females with sensitive skin","authors":"Xinjue Kuang, Jiajing Cai, Yingqi Li, Xiaoxiao Yang, Huimin Zi, Feifei Wang, Fan Yi","doi":"10.1111/ics.12966","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12966","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>We conducted a study on women with sensitive skin of various skin tones to analyse their skin characteristics and preferences for foundation shades.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Volunteers were categorized based on their individual typological angle, and their preferences were assessed using self-perception and software-based mass aesthetic assessment. The Baumann Questionnaire is a valuable tool for identifying patients with sensitive skin and gaining a comprehensive understanding of their skin sensitivity. The skin characteristics of two groups were compared using a more suitable classification method.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Individuals diagnosed with sensitive skin typically have skin tones classified as Types I, II and III, with Type I being the most common in sensitive skin cases. The sensitive group exhibited higher levels of transepidermal water loss, lighter skin tone, lower yellowness, increased glossiness, higher haemoglobin content, more acne, fewer blackheads, and fewer pores. Among them, Type I skin is characterized by lower elasticity, increased oiliness, higher hydration levels and fewer visible pores. Type II skin is characterized by lower hydration levels, higher oiliness and increased redness. Type III exhibits more pores, decreased oiliness and enhanced elasticity. Foundations No. 2 and No. 3 are fairer than foundations No. 1 and No. 4. In the self-assessment, Type I and Type II subjects preferred No. 3, while Type III subjects preferred No. 1 and No. 4 because they matched their skin tone. The results of the software evaluation showed that popular aesthetics preferred Type I and Type II to use No. 2, and Type III to use No. 2 and No. 3, as they resulted in a fairer complexion.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Sensitive skin of different skin tone types confronts different skin problems. The findings also highlight the public's inclination towards lighter foundation shades, despite the common practice of selecting shades that harmonize with one's inherent skin tone.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 6","pages":"878-894"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-05-31","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141179392","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Tomonobu M. Watanabe, Seiko Ueda, Saki Ishida, Go Shioi, Junichi Kaneshiro, Michi Magari
Objective
Hair beauty treatments glorify human life. As a side effect, there is a risk of deteriorating the health of the hair. Optically polarized microscopy has been used for many decades to evaluate hair conditions owing to its ease of use and low operating costs. However, the low biopermeability of light hinders the observation of detailed structures inside hair. The aim of this study is to establish an evaluation technique of internal damages in a hair by utilizing a near-infrared (NIR) light with a wavelength of 1000–1600 nm, called “second NIR window”.
Methods
We built a laser scanning transmission microscope system with an indium gallium arsenide detector, a 1064 nm laser source, and optical circular polarization to visualize the anisotropy characterization of keratin fibres in hair. Samples of Asian black hair before and after bleaching, after permanent-waving, after lithium bromide (LiBr) treatment, and after heating was observed. Some parameters reflecting intra-hair damage were quantitatively compared with the parameters in digitally recorded images with analytical developments.
Results
The light transmittance of black hair was dramatically improved by utilizing the second NIR window. Numerical analysis of circular polarization in hair quantified the internal damage in chemically or thermally treated hair and found two different types of damage. The present method enabled quantitative evaluation of the condition changes in the cortex; for example, a decrease in circular polarizability by LiBr treatment and restoration by replacing the LiBr solution with water. In addition, black speckles were observed after the heat treatment. Longer heating and wetting times increased the appearance probability and size of the speckles. According to quantitative analyses, the emergence of black spots was independent of polarizability changes, indicating that they were not pores.
Conclusion
Circular polarization microscopy based on near-infrared optics in the second NIR window provides an effective evaluation method for quantifying intra-hair damage caused by cosmetic treatments. The present method provides noninvasive, easy, and inexpensive hair evaluation and has potential as a gold standard in hair care research/medical fields.
{"title":"Optical evaluation of internal damage to human hair based on second near-infrared window polarization microscopy","authors":"Tomonobu M. Watanabe, Seiko Ueda, Saki Ishida, Go Shioi, Junichi Kaneshiro, Michi Magari","doi":"10.1111/ics.12970","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12970","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Hair beauty treatments glorify human life. As a side effect, there is a risk of deteriorating the health of the hair. Optically polarized microscopy has been used for many decades to evaluate hair conditions owing to its ease of use and low operating costs. However, the low biopermeability of light hinders the observation of detailed structures inside hair. The aim of this study is to establish an evaluation technique of internal damages in a hair by utilizing a near-infrared (NIR) light with a wavelength of 1000–1600 nm, called “second NIR window”.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>We built a laser scanning transmission microscope system with an indium gallium arsenide detector, a 1064 nm laser source, and optical circular polarization to visualize the anisotropy characterization of keratin fibres in hair. Samples of Asian black hair before and after bleaching, after permanent-waving, after lithium bromide (LiBr) treatment, and after heating was observed. Some parameters reflecting intra-hair damage were quantitatively compared with the parameters in digitally recorded images with analytical developments.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The light transmittance of black hair was dramatically improved by utilizing the second NIR window. Numerical analysis of circular polarization in hair quantified the internal damage in chemically or thermally treated hair and found two different types of damage. The present method enabled quantitative evaluation of the condition changes in the cortex; for example, a decrease in circular polarizability by LiBr treatment and restoration by replacing the LiBr solution with water. In addition, black speckles were observed after the heat treatment. Longer heating and wetting times increased the appearance probability and size of the speckles. According to quantitative analyses, the emergence of black spots was independent of polarizability changes, indicating that they were not pores.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Circular polarization microscopy based on near-infrared optics in the second NIR window provides an effective evaluation method for quantifying intra-hair damage caused by cosmetic treatments. The present method provides noninvasive, easy, and inexpensive hair evaluation and has potential as a gold standard in hair care research/medical fields.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 6","pages":"850-864"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-05-27","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12970","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141156856","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Liposomes are often used in cosmetics since they are naturally derived and have excellent texture enhancing capabilities. However, when preparing them by using phospholipids with unsaturated acyl groups, they easily suffer from oxidative degradation. Accordingly, hydrogenated phospholipids are preferred, however, it is difficult to prepare stable liposomes due to its high gel-liquid crystalline phase transition temperature. On the other hand, although dialkyl dimethyl ammonium type cationic surfactants are widely known to form vesicles, they have rarely been used for skincare products except for water-in-oil type emulsion creams stabilized by organically modified clay minerals. We decided to overcome all of the problems above through ionic complex vesicles formed by double-tailed cationic and anionic surfactants.
Methods
Distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (DSAC) and sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine (DLGL) were selected as cationic and anionic surfactants, respectively. Differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and small- and wide-angle X-ray scattering (SWAXS) measurements were performed to confirm the DSAC/DLGL/water ternary phase diagram. Newly developed ionic complex vesicle formation was confirmed by cryogenic transmission electron microscopy (cryo-TEM). The adsorbed cosmetic film structure on the skin in vivo was evaluated through the polarized infrared external reflection (PIR-ER). Finally, a cosmetic lotion formula was developed and the vesicle size was determined by dynamic light scattering (DLS).
Results
DSC and SWAXS data indicated that stable vesicles could be obtained at a molar ratio of DLGL to DSAC = 6:4. At this molar ratio, multi lamellar vesicles with diameters less than 100 nm were observed through cryo-TEM. PIR-ER data revealed that the developed vesicles formed a highly perpendicular orientation to the human skin surface. We have succeeded in formulating a cosmetic lotion containing developed vesicles with a mean diameter of 63.2 nm, which was stable over 1 month at 0, 37, and 50°C.
Conclusions
Our newly developed vesicles can be easily obtained through a coagulation process. Also, the adsorbed film structure supported by PIR-ER experiments implies that the developed lotion has an excellent texture that is the same as cosmetic lotions containing liposomes. Therefore, it's possible that this ionic complex vesicle could take the place of liposomes.
{"title":"Controlling the formation of ionic complex vesicles through double-tailed surfactants","authors":"Makoto Uyama, Tetsuya Hama","doi":"10.1111/ics.12973","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12973","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Liposomes are often used in cosmetics since they are naturally derived and have excellent texture enhancing capabilities. However, when preparing them by using phospholipids with unsaturated acyl groups, they easily suffer from oxidative degradation. Accordingly, hydrogenated phospholipids are preferred, however, it is difficult to prepare stable liposomes due to its high gel-liquid crystalline phase transition temperature. On the other hand, although dialkyl dimethyl ammonium type cationic surfactants are widely known to form vesicles, they have rarely been used for skincare products except for water-in-oil type emulsion creams stabilized by organically modified clay minerals. We decided to overcome all of the problems above through ionic complex vesicles formed by double-tailed cationic and anionic surfactants.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (DSAC) and sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine (DLGL) were selected as cationic and anionic surfactants, respectively. Differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and small- and wide-angle X-ray scattering (SWAXS) measurements were performed to confirm the DSAC/DLGL/water ternary phase diagram. Newly developed ionic complex vesicle formation was confirmed by cryogenic transmission electron microscopy (cryo-TEM). The adsorbed cosmetic film structure on the skin in vivo was evaluated through the polarized infrared external reflection (PIR-ER). Finally, a cosmetic lotion formula was developed and the vesicle size was determined by dynamic light scattering (DLS).</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>DSC and SWAXS data indicated that stable vesicles could be obtained at a molar ratio of DLGL to DSAC = 6:4. At this molar ratio, multi lamellar vesicles with diameters less than 100 nm were observed through cryo-TEM. PIR-ER data revealed that the developed vesicles formed a highly perpendicular orientation to the human skin surface. We have succeeded in formulating a cosmetic lotion containing developed vesicles with a mean diameter of 63.2 nm, which was stable over 1 month at 0, 37, and 50°C.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusions</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Our newly developed vesicles can be easily obtained through a coagulation process. Also, the adsorbed film structure supported by PIR-ER experiments implies that the developed lotion has an excellent texture that is the same as cosmetic lotions containing liposomes. Therefore, it's possible that this ionic complex vesicle could take the place of liposomes.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 6","pages":"865-877"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-05-27","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141156855","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
The human face is one of the most salient regions of the body surface. Ratings of facial attractiveness, as well as judgements of a person's age, are influenced by the appearance of facial skin (not to mention the presence/absence of wrinkles). Unsurprisingly, many consumers spend huge amounts of money on trying to protect, maintain, and/or enhance their facial appearance. As highlighted by the evidence presented in this narrative review, both the skin and the cosmetic products that many consumers use are fundamentally multisensory in nature. The complex interaction between the particular skin site stimulated and the multisensory attributes of the product (e.g., when it is applied) can exert a number of effects on an individual's mood, their emotions, as well as on their self-perception (and self-confidence), over-and-above any functional effects that the cream or lotion may have on the skin itself. In this narrative historical review, the literature on the multisensory perception of facial skin is summarized and critically evaluated. Multisensory interactions taking place between the cosmetic product, its packaging, as well as its use/application at the sensory, cognitive, and emotional levels are all discussed.
{"title":"Multisensory contributions to skin-cosmetic product interactions","authors":"Charles Spence, Tianyi Zhang","doi":"10.1111/ics.12975","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12975","url":null,"abstract":"<p>The human face is one of the most salient regions of the body surface. Ratings of facial attractiveness, as well as judgements of a person's age, are influenced by the appearance of facial skin (not to mention the presence/absence of wrinkles). Unsurprisingly, many consumers spend huge amounts of money on trying to protect, maintain, and/or enhance their facial appearance. As highlighted by the evidence presented in this narrative review, both the skin and the cosmetic products that many consumers use are fundamentally multisensory in nature. The complex interaction between the particular skin site stimulated and the multisensory attributes of the product (e.g., when it is applied) can exert a number of effects on an individual's mood, their emotions, as well as on their self-perception (and self-confidence), over-and-above any functional effects that the cream or lotion may have on the skin itself. In this narrative historical review, the literature on the multisensory perception of facial skin is summarized and critically evaluated. Multisensory interactions taking place between the cosmetic product, its packaging, as well as its use/application at the sensory, cognitive, and emotional levels are all discussed.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 6","pages":"833-849"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-05-18","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12975","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140957463","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
<div> <section> <h3> Objective</h3> <p>While modern industry advancements have expanded nail beautification options, scientific literature primarily focuses on nail biology and medicine, with limited attention on cosmetic treatments. This study aimed to investigate human nail denaturation properties, including gender impact, blending nails to enlarge the sample pool, nail sensitization through bleaching, and active effectiveness testing. The objective was to understand the DSC and bending fatigue relationship, and define the consumer relevance of the DSC test.</p> </section> <section> <h3> Methods</h3> <p>Nail clippings were collected from adult female and male volunteers. The wet DSC was employed to validate sample preparation, explore the effects of gender, and assess the potential of using blended nails for claims substantiation testing. Nails were sensitized through bleaching using hydrogen peroxide. The effects were confirmed through DSC and nail flexure tests. Furthermore, the ability of actives to address concerns related to nail softness and brittleness was assessed using these techniques.</p> </section> <section> <h3> Results</h3> <p>The results confirmed the viability of equilibrating nails in water for up to 14 h as a standardized testing method. The denaturation temperature results were independent of gender and suitable for claims substantiation testing. Blending nails from different sources did not yield significant variations in denaturation properties. A preliminary study suggested that cadaver nails should be used with caution because they exhibited differences in denaturation temperature, influenced by the sampling location. Bending fatigue tests highlighted the significance of humidity, with higher humidity conditions (80%) enhancing nail flexibility and providing better resolution for claims substantiation.</p> <p>Sensitizing the nails with hydrogen peroxide induced alterations in both DSC and bending fatigue results. Proof-of-principle studies demonstrated an elevation in denaturation temperature and a decrease in the number of cycles to break, indicating a nail-hardening effect when formaldehyde was applied. The use of a nail softener led to an enhancement in nail fatigue resistance due to a notable reduction in nail crosslinking density.</p> </section> <section> <h3> Conclusions</h3> <p>The measurement of crosslinking density proved to be a sensitive tool for assessing the effects of cosmetic treatments on nails, particularly in predicting outcomes related to nail brittleness and flexibility.</p
{"title":"Expanding the Frontiers of nail product evaluation: Novel application of differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) for assessing crosslinking density and predicting nail brittleness and flexibility","authors":"Ernesta Malinauskyte, Katerin Mateo, Vanessa Castro-Haly, Laurisa London, Natasha Parikh, Xiaoyan Tu","doi":"10.1111/ics.12969","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12969","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>While modern industry advancements have expanded nail beautification options, scientific literature primarily focuses on nail biology and medicine, with limited attention on cosmetic treatments. This study aimed to investigate human nail denaturation properties, including gender impact, blending nails to enlarge the sample pool, nail sensitization through bleaching, and active effectiveness testing. The objective was to understand the DSC and bending fatigue relationship, and define the consumer relevance of the DSC test.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Nail clippings were collected from adult female and male volunteers. The wet DSC was employed to validate sample preparation, explore the effects of gender, and assess the potential of using blended nails for claims substantiation testing. Nails were sensitized through bleaching using hydrogen peroxide. The effects were confirmed through DSC and nail flexure tests. Furthermore, the ability of actives to address concerns related to nail softness and brittleness was assessed using these techniques.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The results confirmed the viability of equilibrating nails in water for up to 14 h as a standardized testing method. The denaturation temperature results were independent of gender and suitable for claims substantiation testing. Blending nails from different sources did not yield significant variations in denaturation properties. A preliminary study suggested that cadaver nails should be used with caution because they exhibited differences in denaturation temperature, influenced by the sampling location. Bending fatigue tests highlighted the significance of humidity, with higher humidity conditions (80%) enhancing nail flexibility and providing better resolution for claims substantiation.</p>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Sensitizing the nails with hydrogen peroxide induced alterations in both DSC and bending fatigue results. Proof-of-principle studies demonstrated an elevation in denaturation temperature and a decrease in the number of cycles to break, indicating a nail-hardening effect when formaldehyde was applied. The use of a nail softener led to an enhancement in nail fatigue resistance due to a notable reduction in nail crosslinking density.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusions</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The measurement of crosslinking density proved to be a sensitive tool for assessing the effects of cosmetic treatments on nails, particularly in predicting outcomes related to nail brittleness and flexibility.</p","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 5","pages":"815-830"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-05-18","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12969","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140957460","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Voegeli R, Campiche R, Biassin R, Rawlings AV, Shackelford TK, Fink B. Predictors of female age, health and attractiveness perception from skin feature analysis of digital portraits in five ethnic groups. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2023; 45: 672–687. https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12877
In ‘Materials and Methods’ section, the first sentence of ‘Statistical analysis’ was incorrect. It should have read: ‘We report descriptive statistics for the technical measures and face ratings’.
In ‘Results’ section, the subheading ‘Associations between health ratings and technical measures’ was incorrect. The subheading should have read: ‘Associations between face ratings and technical measures’.
{"title":"Correction to “Predictors of female age, health and attractiveness perception from skin feature analysis of digital portraits in five ethnic groups”","authors":"","doi":"10.1111/ics.12977","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12977","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Voegeli R, Campiche R, Biassin R, Rawlings AV, Shackelford TK, Fink B. Predictors of female age, health and attractiveness perception from skin feature analysis of digital portraits in five ethnic groups. <i>Int J Cosmet Sci. 2023;</i> 45: 672–687. https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12877</p><p>In ‘Materials and Methods’ section, the first sentence of ‘Statistical analysis’ was incorrect. It should have read: ‘We report descriptive statistics for the technical measures and face ratings’.</p><p>In ‘Results’ section, the subheading ‘Associations between health ratings and technical measures’ was incorrect. The subheading should have read: ‘Associations between face ratings and technical measures’.</p><p>We apologize for these errors.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 3","pages":"478"},"PeriodicalIF":2.3,"publicationDate":"2024-05-14","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12977","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140922100","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
When undertaking any review of the structure of the hair and its mechanical properties it becomes apparent that the overall behaviour of keratin fibres is commonly attributed to the presence of hydrogen, disulfide and ionic bonds. The action of physico-chemical agents used during various cosmetic treatments is viewed as the result of an interaction with these bonds. Thus, the breaking of bonds by chemical agents, or via mechanical or thermal stresses, affects the relative balance of disulfide and hydrogen bonds and the contribution of hydrophobic interactions, which are all important factors that may alter hair behaviour. Generally, these chemical bonds are considered as responding homogeneously to the environmental and cosmetic factors. This unitary image is challenged, however, by evaluating the results of chemical, nanomechanical, tensile and thermal measurements, which suggest that disulfide bonds may be grouped into several types, according to their location within the fibre and the way they respond to various agents. A compensatory effect of newly formed hydrogen bonds for broken disulfide bonds may also be seen, and additionally involves different types of hydrogen bonds. As a result, the picture of chemical bonding in hair appears to be far from a homogeneous one. In addition, it is apparent that further investigation is required for clarifying the action of ionic bonds and hydrophobic interactions within the hair fibre. The present review aims, thus, at offering a deeper background for understanding how the hair behaves under various conditions.
{"title":"Chemical bonds and hair behaviour—A review","authors":"S. Breakspear, B. Nöcker, C. Popescu","doi":"10.1111/ics.12967","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12967","url":null,"abstract":"<p>When undertaking any review of the structure of the hair and its mechanical properties it becomes apparent that the overall behaviour of keratin fibres is commonly attributed to the presence of hydrogen, disulfide and ionic bonds. The action of physico-chemical agents used during various cosmetic treatments is viewed as the result of an interaction with these bonds. Thus, the breaking of bonds by chemical agents, or via mechanical or thermal stresses, affects the relative balance of disulfide and hydrogen bonds and the contribution of hydrophobic interactions, which are all important factors that may alter hair behaviour. Generally, these chemical bonds are considered as responding homogeneously to the environmental and cosmetic factors. This unitary image is challenged, however, by evaluating the results of chemical, nanomechanical, tensile and thermal measurements, which suggest that disulfide bonds may be grouped into several types, according to their location within the fibre and the way they respond to various agents. A compensatory effect of newly formed hydrogen bonds for broken disulfide bonds may also be seen, and additionally involves different types of hydrogen bonds. As a result, the picture of chemical bonding in hair appears to be far from a homogeneous one. In addition, it is apparent that further investigation is required for clarifying the action of ionic bonds and hydrophobic interactions within the hair fibre. The present review aims, thus, at offering a deeper background for understanding how the hair behaves under various conditions.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 5","pages":"806-814"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-05-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12967","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140908210","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Andrew Davis, Ashley Furtak, Sarah Paterson, Robert Velthuizen, Jeremy Shen, John Nip, Arthika Bappal, William Lathrop, Ana Villa, Jian-Ming Lee, Marian Guelakis
<div> <section> <h3> Objective</h3> <p>Topical tretinoin is the mainstay of treatment for photoageing, despite the risk of skin irritation. Cosmetic combination anti-ageing formulations may offer similar efficacy to tretinoin, while improving on tolerability. We aim to demonstrate facial appearance benefits of a novel triple-active cosmetic formulation containing 4-hexylresorcinol, retinyl propionate, and niacinamide and to identify transcriptomic biomarkers underpinning these benefits.</p> </section> <section> <h3> Methods</h3> <p>A cosmetic prototype formulation containing 4-hexylresorcinol, retinyl propionate, and niacinamide was evaluated ex vivo and in a clinical study. For ex vivo experiments, the cosmetic formulation was applied for 3 days to healthy surgical discard skin from female donors aged 31–51 years, with tissues harvested for gene expression and histologic analyses. In the clinical study, females aged 47–66 years with moderate-to-severe overall visual photodamage on the face applied either topical 0.02% tretinoin or the cosmetic formulation to the face for 16 weeks and to forearms for 1 week, with forearm biopsies taken for gene expression analyses. Visual grading for facial photodamage and VISIA-CR images was taken throughout the clinical study. Safety was visually assessed during site visits, and adverse event monitoring was conducted throughout.</p> </section> <section> <h3> Results</h3> <p>Gene expression analyses in both studies revealed modulation of pathways associated with skin rejuvenation, with several genes of interest identified due to being implicated in ageing and differentially expressed following the application of the cosmetic formulation. Reversal of a consensus skin ageing gene signature was observed with the cosmetic formulation and tretinoin in the ex vivo and clinical studies. Both the cosmetic formulation and tretinoin clinically improved the overall appearance of photoageing, crow's feet, lines, wrinkles, and pores. Adverse event reporting showed that the cosmetic formulation caused less skin irritation than tretinoin.</p> </section> <section> <h3> Conclusion</h3> <p>In a double-blind clinical study, the novel triple-active cosmetic combination formulation improved the visual appearance of photoageing similarly to prescription tretinoin. The cosmetic formulation and tretinoin reversed a consensus gene signature associated with ageing. Together with adverse event reporting, these results suggest that the cosmetic formulation may be a well-tolerated and efficacious alternative to tretinoin for improving the vis
{"title":"Topical application of retinyl propionate, 4 hexyl resorcinol, and niacinamide reverses molecular and clinical features of ageing","authors":"Andrew Davis, Ashley Furtak, Sarah Paterson, Robert Velthuizen, Jeremy Shen, John Nip, Arthika Bappal, William Lathrop, Ana Villa, Jian-Ming Lee, Marian Guelakis","doi":"10.1111/ics.12958","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12958","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Topical tretinoin is the mainstay of treatment for photoageing, despite the risk of skin irritation. Cosmetic combination anti-ageing formulations may offer similar efficacy to tretinoin, while improving on tolerability. We aim to demonstrate facial appearance benefits of a novel triple-active cosmetic formulation containing 4-hexylresorcinol, retinyl propionate, and niacinamide and to identify transcriptomic biomarkers underpinning these benefits.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>A cosmetic prototype formulation containing 4-hexylresorcinol, retinyl propionate, and niacinamide was evaluated ex vivo and in a clinical study. For ex vivo experiments, the cosmetic formulation was applied for 3 days to healthy surgical discard skin from female donors aged 31–51 years, with tissues harvested for gene expression and histologic analyses. In the clinical study, females aged 47–66 years with moderate-to-severe overall visual photodamage on the face applied either topical 0.02% tretinoin or the cosmetic formulation to the face for 16 weeks and to forearms for 1 week, with forearm biopsies taken for gene expression analyses. Visual grading for facial photodamage and VISIA-CR images was taken throughout the clinical study. Safety was visually assessed during site visits, and adverse event monitoring was conducted throughout.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Gene expression analyses in both studies revealed modulation of pathways associated with skin rejuvenation, with several genes of interest identified due to being implicated in ageing and differentially expressed following the application of the cosmetic formulation. Reversal of a consensus skin ageing gene signature was observed with the cosmetic formulation and tretinoin in the ex vivo and clinical studies. Both the cosmetic formulation and tretinoin clinically improved the overall appearance of photoageing, crow's feet, lines, wrinkles, and pores. Adverse event reporting showed that the cosmetic formulation caused less skin irritation than tretinoin.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>In a double-blind clinical study, the novel triple-active cosmetic combination formulation improved the visual appearance of photoageing similarly to prescription tretinoin. The cosmetic formulation and tretinoin reversed a consensus gene signature associated with ageing. Together with adverse event reporting, these results suggest that the cosmetic formulation may be a well-tolerated and efficacious alternative to tretinoin for improving the vis","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 5","pages":"761-774"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-04-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12958","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140839144","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Thioredoxin (TRX), a ubiquitous protein with strong antioxidant activity, decreases in the skin with age. A decrease in TRX is expected to induce cellular senescence, chronic inflammation, and degeneration and loss of extracellular matrix (ECM), such as collagen and elastin within the skin. In this study, we investigated the effects of TRX addition to excised skin or skin models to understand the role of TRX on cells and ECM within the skin.
Methods
To evaluate its effect on skin cells, we cultured a three-dimensional (3D) skin model in a medium containing TRX. The mRNA expression levels of proteins related to elastic and collagen fibres and the basement membrane were determined. Furthermore, 3D imaging and computational analysis were performed to evaluate the effect of TRX on the elastic fibres and extending COL VII structures in excised human skin after coculturing with TRX for 1, 4, 5 and 6 days.
Results
Thioredoxin application to a 3D skin model upregulated elastin, COLI and COLVII mRNA expression. Applying TRX to the excised skin increased the number of linear elastic fibres. This effect of TRX demonstrated a daily increment in a dose-dependent manner. Thioredoxin extended the fibrous structure of COL VII into the dermis, expanding its colocalization region with elastic fibres. These structural effects were confirmed using 3D imaging and computational methods.
Conclusion
Thioredoxin elongates elastic fibres from the dermis to the basement membrane and extends the COL VII structure from the basement membrane to the dermis in excised human skin. These findings suggest the potential of TRX to protect the skin against age-related alterations such as wrinkles and sagging.
目的硫氧还原蛋白（TRX）是一种普遍存在的蛋白质，具有很强的抗氧化活性，但随着年龄的增长，皮肤中的硫氧还原蛋白会减少。预计 TRX 的减少会诱发细胞衰老、慢性炎症、细胞外基质（ECM）（如皮肤中的胶原蛋白和弹性蛋白）的退化和损失。为了评估 TRX 对皮肤细胞的影响，我们在含有 TRX 的培养基中培养了三维（3D）皮肤模型。我们测定了弹性纤维、胶原纤维和基底膜相关蛋白质的 mRNA 表达水平。此外，还进行了三维成像和计算分析，以评估与 TRX 共同培养 1、4、5 和 6 天后，TRX 对弹性纤维和延伸的 COL VII 结构的影响。在切除的皮肤上涂抹 TRX 可增加线性弹性纤维的数量。TRX的这一效应表现为剂量依赖性的每日递增。硫氧还蛋白将 COL VII 的纤维结构延伸至真皮层，扩大了其与弹性纤维的共定位区域。结论在切除的人体皮肤中，硫氧还蛋白可将弹性纤维从真皮层延伸至基底膜，并将 COL VII 结构从基底膜延伸至真皮层。这些研究结果表明，TRX 有可能保护皮肤免受皱纹和松弛等与年龄有关的变化的影响。
{"title":"Thioredoxin promotes the regeneration and binding of elastic fibre and basement membrane","authors":"Takeshi Tohgasaki, Shino Nishizawa, Xingyu Yu, Shinya Kondo, Shioji Ishiwatari","doi":"10.1111/ics.12964","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.12964","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Thioredoxin (TRX), a ubiquitous protein with strong antioxidant activity, decreases in the skin with age. A decrease in TRX is expected to induce cellular senescence, chronic inflammation, and degeneration and loss of extracellular matrix (ECM), such as collagen and elastin within the skin. In this study, we investigated the effects of TRX addition to excised skin or skin models to understand the role of TRX on cells and ECM within the skin.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>To evaluate its effect on skin cells, we cultured a three-dimensional (3D) skin model in a medium containing TRX. The mRNA expression levels of proteins related to elastic and collagen fibres and the basement membrane were determined. Furthermore, 3D imaging and computational analysis were performed to evaluate the effect of TRX on the elastic fibres and extending COL VII structures in excised human skin after coculturing with TRX for 1, 4, 5 and 6 days.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Thioredoxin application to a 3D skin model upregulated elastin, <i>COLI</i> and <i>COLVII</i> mRNA expression. Applying TRX to the excised skin increased the number of linear elastic fibres. This effect of TRX demonstrated a daily increment in a dose-dependent manner. Thioredoxin extended the fibrous structure of COL VII into the dermis, expanding its colocalization region with elastic fibres. These structural effects were confirmed using 3D imaging and computational methods.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Thioredoxin elongates elastic fibres from the dermis to the basement membrane and extends the COL VII structure from the basement membrane to the dermis in excised human skin. These findings suggest the potential of TRX to protect the skin against age-related alterations such as wrinkles and sagging.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"46 5","pages":"786-794"},"PeriodicalIF":2.7,"publicationDate":"2024-04-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"140839118","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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