Alternative methods to the traditional in vivo sun protection factor (SPF) test are desirable for many reasons. Hybrid DRS (HDRS) (combining in vitro transmission spectroscopy with in vivo DRS spectroscopy) was used in an extensive ring study to characterize its ability to estimate topical sunscreen protection and compared with the currently recognized ‘gold standard’ human in vivo Sun Protection Factor (SPF-ISO24444), Ultraviolet-A Protection Factor (UVA-PF), and Critical Wavelength (CW) (ISO 24443) Reference Methods sponsored by the Alternative SPF Consortium.
Methods
Diffuse reflectance spectroscopy (DRS) of skin provides a rapid, convenient non-invasive tool to evaluate skin properties as well as the optical properties of materials applied to the skin, such as sunscreens. DRS methodology combines in vivo measurement of sunscreen absorbance on skin in the Ultraviolet A (UVA) region with full spectrum in vitro spectrophotometric absorbance scans to provide a full spectrum measurement of the protection of sunscreen on skin.
Results
Results from testing with both monochromatic and polychromatic HDRS devices provided strong correlation of SPF, UVA-PF and Critical Wavelength results with their corresponding ‘gold standard’ counterpart methods in Study 1 for bias (or ‘accuracy’), however with more variability within certain product types. Further training of personnel conducting the HDRS studies was conducted prior to a second follow-up ring study using many of the same blinded samples from Study 1 in addition to Reference Standard sunscreens.
Conclusions
The results showed marked improvement in the variability to a level equivalent to the reference methods while maintaining accuracy of the estimates of the protection values. Virtually all estimates were within the Prediction Intervals (PI) of the reference methods for the second study. HDRS offers the ability to accurately assess sunscreen performance for SPF, UVA-PF as well as CW without invasive damage to test subjects and offers in the future the opportunity to assess water resistance performance.
{"title":"Performance of hybrid diffuse reflectance spectroscopy (HDRS-ISO 23698) methodology for assessment of sunscreen protection in the ALT-SPF Consortium validation study","authors":"Eduardo Ruvolo, Curtis Cole, Mathias Rohr, Jay Silverman, Omid Yousefian, Jan Batzer, Nele Lange, Rita Touti, Florence Pouradier, Luciano Nogueira, Bertrand Colson","doi":"10.1111/ics.13089","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13089","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Alternative methods to the traditional in vivo sun protection factor (SPF) test are desirable for many reasons. Hybrid DRS (HDRS) (combining in vitro transmission spectroscopy with in vivo DRS spectroscopy) was used in an extensive ring study to characterize its ability to estimate topical sunscreen protection and compared with the currently recognized ‘gold standard’ human in vivo Sun Protection Factor (SPF-ISO24444), Ultraviolet-A Protection Factor (UVA-PF), and Critical Wavelength (CW) (ISO 24443) Reference Methods sponsored by the Alternative SPF Consortium.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Diffuse reflectance spectroscopy (DRS) of skin provides a rapid, convenient non-invasive tool to evaluate skin properties as well as the optical properties of materials applied to the skin, such as sunscreens. DRS methodology combines in vivo measurement of sunscreen absorbance on skin in the Ultraviolet A (UVA) region with full spectrum in vitro spectrophotometric absorbance scans to provide a full spectrum measurement of the protection of sunscreen on skin.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Results from testing with both monochromatic and polychromatic HDRS devices provided strong correlation of SPF, UVA-PF and Critical Wavelength results with their corresponding ‘gold standard’ counterpart methods in Study 1 for bias (or ‘accuracy’), however with more variability within certain product types. Further training of personnel conducting the HDRS studies was conducted prior to a second follow-up ring study using many of the same blinded samples from Study 1 in addition to Reference Standard sunscreens.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusions</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The results showed marked improvement in the variability to a level equivalent to the reference methods while maintaining accuracy of the estimates of the protection values. Virtually all estimates were within the Prediction Intervals (PI) of the reference methods for the second study. HDRS offers the ability to accurately assess sunscreen performance for SPF, UVA-PF as well as CW without invasive damage to test subjects and offers in the future the opportunity to assess water resistance performance.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 S1","pages":"53-77"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.13089","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144923568","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
S. Acker, A. Büchse, L. Nogueira, J. Zur Lage, E. Perroux-David, F. Drulhon, J. Moraes, S. Peters, A. Janssen, N. M. Komjani, B. Colson, B. Herzog
Objective
In the framework of the Alt-SPF consortium, a large ring study was conducted to evaluate different alternative methods for SPF determination. This paper reports and discusses the results of a new in vitro approach, the Fused Method. The study aimed to determine whether the Fused Method would provide similar SPF results to those obtained using ISO 24444 and whether UVA-PF would be comparable to ISO 24443.
Methods
The Fused Method is based on assessing UV transmittance through a film of sunscreen applied to PMMA plates, before and after 1MED irradiation through the film. An individual calibration curve is measured by each operator using standard sunscreens to correct for individual/equipment error throughout the process. This calibration is formulation-dependent: there is one calibration for emulsion, one for single-phase formulations, and one for mineral UV filters.
Results
Optimization of the calibration step to an asymptotic regression model improved inter-laboratory reproducibility and showed lower method bias compared to ISO 24444. Most PGs met the full statistical validation criterion for SPF results. The results of PG1 (low viscosity emulsion SPF30), PG2 (medium viscosity emulsion SPF6) and PG4 (medium viscosity emulsion SPF30) indicate a product and product group-specific method bias. This observation was confirmed for PG1 in the follow-up study. The same conclusion could be drawn for the evaluation of UVA-PF versus ISO 24443, as this parameter is directly linked to the SPF results.
Conclusion
The use of the Fused Method to determine the SPF of sunscreen formulations meets the statistical criteria for most PGs. However, intra-laboratory reproducibility needs to be improved for low SPF values and low viscosity emulsions. Nevertheless, this fast, simple, and cost-effective method remains a good alternative for SPF & UVA-PF screening in the development of sunscreen formulations. It is a pragmatic approach to manage the various known biases (applicator/device) of in vitro transmittance SPF measurement. No significant change to ISO 24443 is required, and the method allows in vitro SPF & UVA-PF to be determined in the same setup.
{"title":"The ALT-SPF ring study – in vitro determination of the SPF & UVA-PF by the fused method","authors":"S. Acker, A. Büchse, L. Nogueira, J. Zur Lage, E. Perroux-David, F. Drulhon, J. Moraes, S. Peters, A. Janssen, N. M. Komjani, B. Colson, B. Herzog","doi":"10.1111/ics.70015","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.70015","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>In the framework of the Alt-SPF consortium, a large ring study was conducted to evaluate different alternative methods for SPF determination. This paper reports and discusses the results of a new in vitro approach, the Fused Method. The study aimed to determine whether the Fused Method would provide similar SPF results to those obtained using ISO 24444 and whether UVA-PF would be comparable to ISO 24443.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The Fused Method is based on assessing UV transmittance through a film of sunscreen applied to PMMA plates, before and after 1MED irradiation through the film. An individual calibration curve is measured by each operator using standard sunscreens to correct for individual/equipment error throughout the process. This calibration is formulation-dependent: there is one calibration for emulsion, one for single-phase formulations, and one for mineral UV filters.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Optimization of the calibration step to an asymptotic regression model improved inter-laboratory reproducibility and showed lower method bias compared to ISO 24444. Most PGs met the full statistical validation criterion for SPF results. The results of PG1 (low viscosity emulsion SPF30), PG2 (medium viscosity emulsion SPF6) and PG4 (medium viscosity emulsion SPF30) indicate a product and product group-specific method bias. This observation was confirmed for PG1 in the follow-up study. The same conclusion could be drawn for the evaluation of UVA-PF versus ISO 24443, as this parameter is directly linked to the SPF results.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The use of the Fused Method to determine the SPF of sunscreen formulations meets the statistical criteria for most PGs. However, intra-laboratory reproducibility needs to be improved for low SPF values and low viscosity emulsions. Nevertheless, this fast, simple, and cost-effective method remains a good alternative for SPF & UVA-PF screening in the development of sunscreen formulations. It is a pragmatic approach to manage the various known biases (applicator/device) of in vitro transmittance SPF measurement. No significant change to ISO 24443 is required, and the method allows in vitro SPF & UVA-PF to be determined in the same setup.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 S1","pages":"115-132"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.70015","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144923563","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Florence Pouradier, Sebastien Miksa, Jan Batzer, Modibo Mangassi, Anna Ludwikowska, Hicham Nocairi, Bertrand Colson, Gerald Renner, Paul J. Matts, Marc Pissavini
Objective
To perform a comprehensive statistical characterization of the Double Plate method (ISO 23675) as a potential in vitro alternative to the in vivo reference method (ISO 24444:2019) for determining the sun protection factor (SPF).
Methods
Five qualified laboratories were involved in testing the Double Plate method, as part of a large-scale ring test conducted by the International Consortium ‘ALT-SPF’. About 32 sunscreen products, reflecting diverse global formulations, were tested using both the in vivo reference method and the Double Plate method. This method employs spectrophotometric measurements of sunscreen applied to UV-transparent plates with standardized robotic application to minimize the variability. A mathematical adjustment was introduced to address the initial bias compared to the reference method and further assessed in a follow-up ring test with 12 products, including ISO standards.
Results
The Double Plate method exhibited very high intra- and inter-laboratory reproducibility throughout the study, consistently meeting the precision criteria set by ISO/TC217/WG7. Following the mathematical adjustment, the accuracy significantly improved, demonstrating a close alignment with the reference method.
Conclusion
The Double Plate method demonstrates excellent reproducibility and, following optimization, high accuracy for the SPF determination. These findings endorse the Double Plate method as a robust and ethical in vitro alternative to the in vivo reference method for SPF testing. This paved the way for its publication as a new ISO standard (ISO 23675), in December 2024, supporting consumer safety and informed product choices.
{"title":"Performance assessment of the Double Plate method (ISO23675) in ALT-SPF Consortium: A highly reproducible and accurate in vitro method to determine SPF","authors":"Florence Pouradier, Sebastien Miksa, Jan Batzer, Modibo Mangassi, Anna Ludwikowska, Hicham Nocairi, Bertrand Colson, Gerald Renner, Paul J. Matts, Marc Pissavini","doi":"10.1111/ics.13088","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13088","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>To perform a comprehensive statistical characterization of the Double Plate method (ISO 23675) as a potential in vitro alternative to the in vivo reference method (ISO 24444:2019) for determining the sun protection factor (SPF).</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Five qualified laboratories were involved in testing the Double Plate method, as part of a large-scale ring test conducted by the International Consortium ‘ALT-SPF’. About 32 sunscreen products, reflecting diverse global formulations, were tested using both the in vivo reference method and the Double Plate method. This method employs spectrophotometric measurements of sunscreen applied to UV-transparent plates with standardized robotic application to minimize the variability. A mathematical adjustment was introduced to address the initial bias compared to the reference method and further assessed in a follow-up ring test with 12 products, including ISO standards.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The Double Plate method exhibited very high intra- and inter-laboratory reproducibility throughout the study, consistently meeting the precision criteria set by ISO/TC217/WG7. Following the mathematical adjustment, the accuracy significantly improved, demonstrating a close alignment with the reference method.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The Double Plate method demonstrates excellent reproducibility and, following optimization, high accuracy for the SPF determination. These findings endorse the Double Plate method as a robust and ethical in vitro alternative to the in vivo reference method for SPF testing. This paved the way for its publication as a new ISO standard (ISO 23675), in December 2024, supporting consumer safety and informed product choices.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 S1","pages":"37-52"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.13088","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144923567","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
This paper presents the results of the Alt-SPF consortium ring test, obtained by the in-silico methodology, and discusses these results in the context of existing standards. To evaluate the effectiveness of the in-silico methodology in correlating with these standards, a comparison was made between the in-silico sun protection factor (SPF) and the UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) and the values derived by standard in vivo SPF (ISO24444) and in vitro UVA-PF (ISO24443). The model utilises the same algorithm as in vitro measurements of SPF and UVA-PF, with the measured UV transmission substituted by calculated transmission simulated through an applied sunscreen film. The in-silico approach necessitates quantitative UV absorbance data of all UV-filters, their photodegradation and photointeraction properties, oil/water phase synergies and a model describing the irregular distribution of the film thickness on the skin. The performance factors are calculated using an initial analytical evaluation of the 32 test formulations of the ring test, to ascertain the presence and concentration of individual UV absorbers. The filter concentrations obtained are then processed via computational analysis to calculate the SPF and UV-PF values. It has been demonstrated that, in accordance with defined statistical parameters to characterize the ability of a method to correlate with the in vivo SPF standard, the in-silico methodology is a highly reproducible and accurate tool for SPF prediction. The alignment with the lowest measured in vivo SPF values serves to ensure the safety of the end consumer and is not a weakness of the method. Additionally, it has been demonstrated that the methodology facilitates precise prediction of UVA protection in comparison to the in vitro standard ISO 24443. These calculations can be employed to engineer novel sunscreens, thereby diminishing the necessity for ethically questionable and extensive laboratory measurements. In case still in-vivo measurements are needed, the methodology can deliver the frequently required SPF/UVA-PF values and may also support functions such as those of responsible persons, including safety assessors, in their evaluations.
{"title":"The ALT-SPF ring study—Correlation in silico versus in vivo SPF ISO24444 and in vitro UVA-PF ISO24443","authors":"Gernot Kunze, Myriam Sohn, Jochen Giesinger, Katja Quass, Yvonne Prigl, Caithlyn Schleiger, Alexander Schlifke, Waldemar Ens, Frauke Wilfert, Jürgen Vollhardt, Bertrand Colson, Bernd Herzog","doi":"10.1111/ics.13086","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.13086","url":null,"abstract":"<p>This paper presents the results of the Alt-SPF consortium ring test, obtained by the in-silico methodology, and discusses these results in the context of existing standards. To evaluate the effectiveness of the in-silico methodology in correlating with these standards, a comparison was made between the in-silico sun protection factor (SPF) and the UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) and the values derived by standard in vivo SPF (ISO24444) and in vitro UVA-PF (ISO24443). The model utilises the same algorithm as in vitro measurements of SPF and UVA-PF, with the measured UV transmission substituted by calculated transmission simulated through an applied sunscreen film. The in-silico approach necessitates quantitative UV absorbance data of all UV-filters, their photodegradation and photointeraction properties, oil/water phase synergies and a model describing the irregular distribution of the film thickness on the skin. The performance factors are calculated using an initial analytical evaluation of the 32 test formulations of the ring test, to ascertain the presence and concentration of individual UV absorbers. The filter concentrations obtained are then processed via computational analysis to calculate the SPF and UV-PF values. It has been demonstrated that, in accordance with defined statistical parameters to characterize the ability of a method to correlate with the in vivo SPF standard, the in-silico methodology is a highly reproducible and accurate tool for SPF prediction. The alignment with the lowest measured in vivo SPF values serves to ensure the safety of the end consumer and is not a weakness of the method. Additionally, it has been demonstrated that the methodology facilitates precise prediction of UVA protection in comparison to the in vitro standard ISO 24443. These calculations can be employed to engineer novel sunscreens, thereby diminishing the necessity for ethically questionable and extensive laboratory measurements. In case still in-vivo measurements are needed, the methodology can deliver the frequently required SPF/UVA-PF values and may also support functions such as those of responsible persons, including safety assessors, in their evaluations.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 S1","pages":"78-95"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.13086","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144923421","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Over the last two decades, consumers have been calling for greater transparency for ingredient sourcing and manufacturing practices; therefore, more sustainable alternatives need to be evaluated to meet industry demands. While many organizations give standards for ‘clean’, ‘organic’ and ‘natural’ cosmetic products, sustainable formulations lack standardization and harmonization globally. This study aimed to formulate sustainable lipsticks and moisturizers using resources and standards currently available in the cosmetic industry and compare select sustainable alternatives to a conventional control product.
Methods
After thoroughly screening ingredients for each product type, five different lipsticks and five batches of moisturizers were formulated and tested for quality, performance and stability characteristics.
Results
Pay-off and friction were the most different among the lipsticks, with M4, the lipstick containing sustainable ingredients, having the highest average friction and pay-off at Week 1. As for the moisturizers, spreadability had the largest differences, mostly due to the different emulsifier systems, as expected.
Conclusion
Incorporating sustainable ingredients can be challenging, but having quality products while being more environmentally friendly is possible. These case studies are meant to serve as examples for formulation chemists.
{"title":"Sustainable cosmetic ingredient alternatives to replace conventional ingredients: Case studies in moisturizers and lipsticks","authors":"Anna Spaulding, Gabriella Baki","doi":"10.1111/ics.70020","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.70020","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Over the last two decades, consumers have been calling for greater transparency for ingredient sourcing and manufacturing practices; therefore, more sustainable alternatives need to be evaluated to meet industry demands. While many organizations give standards for ‘clean’, ‘organic’ and ‘natural’ cosmetic products, sustainable formulations lack standardization and harmonization globally. This study aimed to formulate sustainable lipsticks and moisturizers using resources and standards currently available in the cosmetic industry and compare select sustainable alternatives to a conventional control product.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>After thoroughly screening ingredients for each product type, five different lipsticks and five batches of moisturizers were formulated and tested for quality, performance and stability characteristics.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Pay-off and friction were the most different among the lipsticks, with M4, the lipstick containing sustainable ingredients, having the highest average friction and pay-off at Week 1. As for the moisturizers, spreadability had the largest differences, mostly due to the different emulsifier systems, as expected.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Incorporating sustainable ingredients can be challenging, but having quality products while being more environmentally friendly is possible. These case studies are meant to serve as examples for formulation chemists.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"48 1","pages":"83-96"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-08-19","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC12877994/pdf/","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144873082","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Sensitive skin syndrome (SSS) affects individuals from all ethnic groups. However, studies across different populations remain limited, despite recognised differences between populations. Thus, we examined SSS in Thai and Polish subjects, assessing the tolerance and efficacy of a dermo-cosmetic product in both populations.
Methods
Thai participants were involved in a 28-day open-label study, while Polish subjects took part in a 56-day double-blind, randomised study comparing the product with a control cream. Clinical and functional signs were evaluated, alongside quality of life (QoL) using the Burden of Sensitive Skin (BoSS) questionnaire.
Results
The product was well tolerated in both groups over time, leading to significant improvements in all clinical and functional signs (p < 0.05 to p < 0.001) and enhancing QoL (p < 0.005 in Thailand; p < 0.001 in Poland). At baseline, Polish subjects exhibited greater redness and higher BoSS scores to questions relating to visual signs (p < 0.001). Conversely, Thai participants reported more pronounced tingling, pain and itching, along with higher BoSS scores relating to sensory symptoms (p < 0.001).
Conclusions
The study highlights differences existing in the perception of SSS symptoms between a Thai and Polish population and demonstrates that the dermo-cosmetic cream effectively alleviates SSS symptoms and improves QoL in both ethnic groups.
{"title":"Evaluation of the sensitive skin syndrome and the effect of a dermo-cosmetic treatment in Thai and Polish subjects","authors":"Helena Polena, Sylwia Czaińska, Benoît Cadars, Ewa Chlebus, Monika Serafin, Waranya Boonchai, Pichanee Chaweekulrat, Silada Kanokrungsee, Marlène Chavagnac-Bonneville, Christelle Graizeau, Michèle Sayag, Elodie Prestat-Marquis","doi":"10.1111/ics.70017","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.70017","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Sensitive skin syndrome (SSS) affects individuals from all ethnic groups. However, studies across different populations remain limited, despite recognised differences between populations. Thus, we examined SSS in Thai and Polish subjects, assessing the tolerance and efficacy of a dermo-cosmetic product in both populations.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Thai participants were involved in a 28-day open-label study, while Polish subjects took part in a 56-day double-blind, randomised study comparing the product with a control cream. Clinical and functional signs were evaluated, alongside quality of life (QoL) using the Burden of Sensitive Skin (BoSS) questionnaire.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The product was well tolerated in both groups over time, leading to significant improvements in all clinical and functional signs (<i>p</i> < 0.05 to <i>p</i> < 0.001) and enhancing QoL (<i>p</i> < 0.005 in Thailand; <i>p</i> < 0.001 in Poland). At baseline, Polish subjects exhibited greater redness and higher BoSS scores to questions relating to visual signs (<i>p</i> < 0.001). Conversely, Thai participants reported more pronounced tingling, pain and itching, along with higher BoSS scores relating to sensory symptoms (<i>p</i> < 0.001).</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusions</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The study highlights differences existing in the perception of SSS symptoms between a Thai and Polish population and demonstrates that the dermo-cosmetic cream effectively alleviates SSS symptoms and improves QoL in both ethnic groups.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"48 1","pages":"70-82"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-08-19","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC12877974/pdf/","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144873081","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Phil Barry, Jun Ning Teo, Jing Jing Guo, Peter Engels, Katharina Droste, Annika Kathrin Michaelis, Werner Voss
<div> <section> <h3> Objective</h3> <p>Dandruff is one of the most common dermatological conditions, which occurs in about 50% of human individuals confined only to the scalp. Microbiome studies indicate a bacterial and fungal microbiota shift compared to a healthy scalp. While antifungal treatments are effective in improving clinical signs and symptoms of scalp dandruff, maintaining a healthy scalp microbiome balance is also crucial for long-term scalp health. The objective of this study was to investigate whether a novel plant-based formula containing <i>Ziziphus joazeiro</i> bark extract and <i>Apium graveolens</i> seed extract is capable of reducing mild-to-moderate dandruff symptoms and restoring the scalp skin barrier function and its impact on the microbiota balance after a 4-week application period.</p> </section> <section> <h3> Methods</h3> <p>An open-label, single-centre study was performed including 40 subjects with mild-to-moderate dandruff with either oily or dry sensitive scalp. Subjects were treated for 4 weeks with a novel plant-based shampoo to demonstrate the efficacy in reduction of dandruff (scaling) and redness and stabilization of trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). Dermatological measurements were performed as well as a scalp microbiome analysis of 20 subjects with a focus on alpha and beta diversity and abundance of core microbiota. The analysis was performed on swab samples taken prior to and 28 days after application of the product of interest.</p> </section> <section> <h3> Results</h3> <p>Clinical data revealed that the new plant-based shampoo was well tolerated. TEWL analysis showed a highly significant improvement (−18.60%, <i>p</i> = 0.00035). With respect to redness (−22.8%, <i>p</i> = 0.00127) and dandruff reduction (scaling, −29.23%, <i>p</i> = 0.000001), a significant improvement in the analysed parameters was also determined. Microbiome analysis revealed no significant changes in alpha or beta diversity, suggesting that the product has no negative impact on microbial diversity or affecting the overall structure of microbial communities within individuals. Interestingly, fungal species seem not to be involved in dandruff development within the analysed cohort. The key finding was a significant median increase in the <i>Cutibacterium</i>/<i>Staphylococcus</i> ratio (+19.57%).</p> </section> <section> <h3> Conclusion</h3> <p>The study indicates that mild-to-moderate dandruff symptoms can successfully be reduced with the plant-based shampoo by restoring the bacterial scalp microbiome balance, suggesting a ‘microbiome-f
{"title":"In-vivo pilot study to assess a new plant-based cosmetic formulation containing Ziziphus joazeiro bark extract and Apium graveolens seed extract for the improvement of dandruff while enhancing scalp microbiome balance and barrier function in subjects with oily to dry sensitive scalps","authors":"Phil Barry, Jun Ning Teo, Jing Jing Guo, Peter Engels, Katharina Droste, Annika Kathrin Michaelis, Werner Voss","doi":"10.1111/ics.70011","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.70011","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Dandruff is one of the most common dermatological conditions, which occurs in about 50% of human individuals confined only to the scalp. Microbiome studies indicate a bacterial and fungal microbiota shift compared to a healthy scalp. While antifungal treatments are effective in improving clinical signs and symptoms of scalp dandruff, maintaining a healthy scalp microbiome balance is also crucial for long-term scalp health. The objective of this study was to investigate whether a novel plant-based formula containing <i>Ziziphus joazeiro</i> bark extract and <i>Apium graveolens</i> seed extract is capable of reducing mild-to-moderate dandruff symptoms and restoring the scalp skin barrier function and its impact on the microbiota balance after a 4-week application period.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>An open-label, single-centre study was performed including 40 subjects with mild-to-moderate dandruff with either oily or dry sensitive scalp. Subjects were treated for 4 weeks with a novel plant-based shampoo to demonstrate the efficacy in reduction of dandruff (scaling) and redness and stabilization of trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). Dermatological measurements were performed as well as a scalp microbiome analysis of 20 subjects with a focus on alpha and beta diversity and abundance of core microbiota. The analysis was performed on swab samples taken prior to and 28 days after application of the product of interest.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Clinical data revealed that the new plant-based shampoo was well tolerated. TEWL analysis showed a highly significant improvement (−18.60%, <i>p</i> = 0.00035). With respect to redness (−22.8%, <i>p</i> = 0.00127) and dandruff reduction (scaling, −29.23%, <i>p</i> = 0.000001), a significant improvement in the analysed parameters was also determined. Microbiome analysis revealed no significant changes in alpha or beta diversity, suggesting that the product has no negative impact on microbial diversity or affecting the overall structure of microbial communities within individuals. Interestingly, fungal species seem not to be involved in dandruff development within the analysed cohort. The key finding was a significant median increase in the <i>Cutibacterium</i>/<i>Staphylococcus</i> ratio (+19.57%).</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The study indicates that mild-to-moderate dandruff symptoms can successfully be reduced with the plant-based shampoo by restoring the bacterial scalp microbiome balance, suggesting a ‘microbiome-f","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"48 1","pages":"51-69"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-07-28","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC12877976/pdf/","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144730326","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Neil Shaw, Michela Buscemi, Dajana Gubala, Juliet Scott-Pritchard, Charles Stanton-Stock, Peter Bailey
The use of heat styling appliances is a rapidly growing segment within the hair care market. However, despite significant levels of academic investigation into the impact of high temperature on the structure and mechanical properties of the hair fibre, the industry does not yet have a standardized method of heat damage measurement to enable consumers and independent evaluation laboratories to objectively compare the performance of different heat styling tools. We discuss the available experimental methods to support such a standardized method and conclude that the well-established approach of measuring single-fibre tensile strength provides the best option. We then explore the sensitivity to heat damage of the various wet and dry single-fibre tensile parameters in order to identify the optimal combination for inclusion in our hair damage metric. Using the selected combination of 8 different wet single-fibre tensile strength parameters, we now propose a robust, reproducible and consumer-relevant 6-point heat damage scale. We demonstrate the relevance of the new damage scale to a range of on-market heated hair straighteners and explore the human perception of hair treated with heated straighteners delivering different damage levels according to the new scale. Based on this, we show a good correlation between the technical damage scale and the human perception of damage on hair tresses.
{"title":"Application of single hair fibre tensile measurements to create an industry-standard heat damage scale for hair","authors":"Neil Shaw, Michela Buscemi, Dajana Gubala, Juliet Scott-Pritchard, Charles Stanton-Stock, Peter Bailey","doi":"10.1111/ics.13084","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13084","url":null,"abstract":"<p>The use of heat styling appliances is a rapidly growing segment within the hair care market. However, despite significant levels of academic investigation into the impact of high temperature on the structure and mechanical properties of the hair fibre, the industry does not yet have a standardized method of heat damage measurement to enable consumers and independent evaluation laboratories to objectively compare the performance of different heat styling tools. We discuss the available experimental methods to support such a standardized method and conclude that the well-established approach of measuring single-fibre tensile strength provides the best option. We then explore the sensitivity to heat damage of the various wet and dry single-fibre tensile parameters in order to identify the optimal combination for inclusion in our hair damage metric. Using the selected combination of 8 different wet single-fibre tensile strength parameters, we now propose a robust, reproducible and consumer-relevant 6-point heat damage scale. We demonstrate the relevance of the new damage scale to a range of on-market heated hair straighteners and explore the human perception of hair treated with heated straighteners delivering different damage levels according to the new scale. Based on this, we show a good correlation between the technical damage scale and the human perception of damage on hair tresses.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 6","pages":"1085-1103"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-07-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144707421","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Inbal Rachmin, Béatrice Le Varlet, Claire Regazzetti, Thierry Passeron, Jinhua Wang, David E. Fisher, Philippe Schaison, Braham Shroot
<div> <section> <h3> Background</h3> <p>Ultraviolet (UV) radiation accelerates skin damage and photoageing, leading to visible signs such as wrinkles, loss of elasticity and uneven pigmentation. UV radiation causes direct DNA damage, primarily through the formation of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs) and 6–4 photoproducts (6-4PPs), which can lead to mutations and cellular dysfunction if not repaired. While natural defence mechanisms like melanin production and DNA repair pathways mitigate this damage, prolonged or excessive UV exposure can overwhelm these defences, resulting in cumulative skin damage. The melanocortin 1 receptor (MC1R) plays a key role in melanogenesis and also appears to play a role in DNA repair. Salt-inducible kinases (SIKs), critical enzymes in the MC1R pathway, are known to influence melanin production, but their role in DNA repair and photodamage remains unclear.</p> </section> <section> <h3> Objective</h3> <p>This study investigated the role of SIK in DNA repair and photodamage, focusing on two novel cosmetic ingredients, SIK inhibitors, coded SLT-008 and SLT-001.</p> </section> <section> <h3> Methods</h3> <p>The inhibitory effects of the ingredients on SIK activity were measured using biochemical and cellular assays. Their safety profiles were evaluated through in vitro studies and clinical trials. To analyse their impact on UV-B-induced DNA damage and repair, both inhibitors were topically applied to skin extracts in an ex vivo model. Finally, clinical studies were conducted in healthy volunteers irradiated with UV-R. Efficacy was determined by measuring CPD levels, matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1), expression and erythema formation following UV exposure.</p> </section> <section> <h3> Results</h3> <p>Both ingredients effectively inhibited SIK activity and demonstrated good safety profiles. Ex vivo experiments revealed that immediate post-UV-B application of both ingredients significantly reduced UV-B-induced DNA damage, as shown by decreased CPDs, and promoted tissue repair. Additionally, both inhibitors suppressed MMP-1 expression, an enzyme that plays a key role in the breakdown of collagen, thereby accelerating photoageing. These findings were confirmed in the clinical study, which demonstrated that topically applied SLT-001 enhanced DNA repair, reduced MMP-1 expression and decreased erythema formation.</p> </section> <section> <h3> Conclusion</h3> <p>Here we described the comprehensive role of SIK inhibition in D
{"title":"A novel approach to target skin photodamage: Topical application of salt inducible kinase inhibitors","authors":"Inbal Rachmin, Béatrice Le Varlet, Claire Regazzetti, Thierry Passeron, Jinhua Wang, David E. Fisher, Philippe Schaison, Braham Shroot","doi":"10.1111/ics.70003","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.70003","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Background</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Ultraviolet (UV) radiation accelerates skin damage and photoageing, leading to visible signs such as wrinkles, loss of elasticity and uneven pigmentation. UV radiation causes direct DNA damage, primarily through the formation of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs) and 6–4 photoproducts (6-4PPs), which can lead to mutations and cellular dysfunction if not repaired. While natural defence mechanisms like melanin production and DNA repair pathways mitigate this damage, prolonged or excessive UV exposure can overwhelm these defences, resulting in cumulative skin damage. The melanocortin 1 receptor (MC1R) plays a key role in melanogenesis and also appears to play a role in DNA repair. Salt-inducible kinases (SIKs), critical enzymes in the MC1R pathway, are known to influence melanin production, but their role in DNA repair and photodamage remains unclear.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>This study investigated the role of SIK in DNA repair and photodamage, focusing on two novel cosmetic ingredients, SIK inhibitors, coded SLT-008 and SLT-001.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The inhibitory effects of the ingredients on SIK activity were measured using biochemical and cellular assays. Their safety profiles were evaluated through in vitro studies and clinical trials. To analyse their impact on UV-B-induced DNA damage and repair, both inhibitors were topically applied to skin extracts in an ex vivo model. Finally, clinical studies were conducted in healthy volunteers irradiated with UV-R. Efficacy was determined by measuring CPD levels, matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1), expression and erythema formation following UV exposure.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Both ingredients effectively inhibited SIK activity and demonstrated good safety profiles. Ex vivo experiments revealed that immediate post-UV-B application of both ingredients significantly reduced UV-B-induced DNA damage, as shown by decreased CPDs, and promoted tissue repair. Additionally, both inhibitors suppressed MMP-1 expression, an enzyme that plays a key role in the breakdown of collagen, thereby accelerating photoageing. These findings were confirmed in the clinical study, which demonstrated that topically applied SLT-001 enhanced DNA repair, reduced MMP-1 expression and decreased erythema formation.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Here we described the comprehensive role of SIK inhibition in D","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"48 1","pages":"1-15"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-07-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC12877966/pdf/","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144707420","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Steph Crabtree, Bradley B. Jarrold, Olivia Kent, Matthew C. Ehrman, Timothy J. Hawkins, Viktor Korolchuk, Camila Pereira Braga, John M. Snowball, Makio Tamura, Tomohiro Hakozaki, Akira Matsubara, John E. Oblong, Max Brown
<div> <section> <h3> Objective</h3> <p>Skin is exposed to multiple external factors such as solar radiation and environmental oxidative stressors. Ageing and the accumulation of stress damage lead to reduced skin health and loss of skin firmness, which contribute to wrinkling and sagging. We investigated if <i>Galactomyces</i> ferment filtrate (GFF) could modulate skin cell mechanical properties through changes to the actin cytoskeleton and anchoring junctions.</p> </section> <section> <h3> Methods</h3> <p>Proteomic analysis was performed to identify age-associated changes in cellular components in skin biopsies and GFF-mediated changes in full thickness 3D skin equivalent models. Nanoindentation was used to measure the Young's modulus (resistance to elastic deformation) of keratinocyte cells under Latrunculin B (LatB)-induced destabilization of the actin cytoskeleton. Immunofluorescence and confocal microscopy were performed on skin equivalents to validate the GFF-induced changes observed in proteomic analysis and identify expression profiles of key structural proteins within the skin.</p> </section> <section> <h3> Results</h3> <p>Aged skin had decreased expression of internal cellular components ‘actin cytoskeleton’ and ‘focal adhesion’. Destabilization of actin cytoskeleton by LatB significantly reduced the Young's modulus of keratinocyte cells. Pre-treatment of keratinocytes with GFF was able to prevent LatB-induced decline of skin cell mechanical properties. Proteomic analysis of full thickness 3D skin equivalent models revealed that GFF increased the expression of ‘actin cytoskeleton’ and ‘anchoring junctions’, especially the actin-binding focal adhesion proteins. Immunofluorescence staining confirmed that GFF upregulated expression of the actin stabilizer, calponin 2 and integrin α2 in basal keratinocytes. GFF increased integrin localisation to the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) and colocalised with collagen IV in vitro, suggesting increased linkage between the epidermis and dermis.</p> </section> <section> <h3> Conclusion</h3> <p>Our data establish the actin cytoskeleton and anchoring junctions which bind it as important cellular structures which decline with age. We also identified that the cellular structures are required for the maintenance of keratinocyte Young's modulus, which could be an important property impacting skin firmness. Furthermore, we have identified that GFF promotes actin stability and builds a rigid holding structure of the anchoring junctions to increase cell–cell and epidermis–dermis anchoring in skin equivalent mode
目的：皮肤暴露于多种外界因素，如太阳辐射和环境氧化应激。衰老和压力损伤的积累会导致皮肤健康状况下降，皮肤紧致度下降，从而导致皱纹和松弛。我们研究了Galactomyces发酵滤液（GFF）是否可以通过改变肌动蛋白细胞骨架和锚定连接来调节皮肤细胞的力学特性。方法：进行蛋白质组学分析，以确定皮肤活组织检查中细胞成分的年龄相关变化和全层3D皮肤等效模型中gff介导的变化。纳米压痕用于测量角化细胞在Latrunculin B （LatB）诱导的肌动蛋白细胞骨架不稳定作用下的杨氏模量（抗弹性变形）。对皮肤等效物进行免疫荧光和共聚焦显微镜，以验证蛋白质组学分析中观察到的gff诱导的变化，并确定皮肤内关键结构蛋白的表达谱。结果：衰老皮肤内细胞成分“肌动蛋白骨架”和“局灶黏附”表达降低。LatB对肌动蛋白细胞骨架的破坏显著降低了角质形成细胞的杨氏模量。用GFF预处理角质形成细胞能够防止latb诱导的皮肤细胞力学性能下降。全层3D皮肤等效模型的蛋白质组学分析显示，GFF增加了“肌动蛋白细胞骨架”和“锚定连接”的表达，特别是肌动蛋白结合的局灶粘附蛋白。免疫荧光染色证实，GFF上调了基底角质形成细胞中肌动蛋白稳定剂、钙钙蛋白2和整合素α2的表达。GFF增加了整合素在真皮-表皮交界处（DEJ）的定位，并在体外与IV型胶原共定位，表明表皮和真皮之间的联系增加。结论：肌动蛋白骨架及其连接的锚定连接是重要的细胞结构，随着年龄的增长而下降。我们还发现，细胞结构是维持角质细胞杨氏模量所必需的，这可能是影响皮肤紧致度的重要特性。此外，我们已经确定GFF促进肌动蛋白的稳定性，并在皮肤等效模型中建立锚定连接的刚性保持结构，以增加细胞-细胞和表皮-真皮层锚定。因此，GFF有可能分别帮助年轻皮肤和老年皮肤保持和恢复皮肤紧致度。
{"title":"Galactomyces ferment filtrate upregulates anchoring junctions and stabilizes actin to maintain the Young's modulus of skin cells in vitro","authors":"Steph Crabtree, Bradley B. Jarrold, Olivia Kent, Matthew C. Ehrman, Timothy J. Hawkins, Viktor Korolchuk, Camila Pereira Braga, John M. Snowball, Makio Tamura, Tomohiro Hakozaki, Akira Matsubara, John E. Oblong, Max Brown","doi":"10.1111/ics.70009","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.70009","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Skin is exposed to multiple external factors such as solar radiation and environmental oxidative stressors. Ageing and the accumulation of stress damage lead to reduced skin health and loss of skin firmness, which contribute to wrinkling and sagging. We investigated if <i>Galactomyces</i> ferment filtrate (GFF) could modulate skin cell mechanical properties through changes to the actin cytoskeleton and anchoring junctions.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Proteomic analysis was performed to identify age-associated changes in cellular components in skin biopsies and GFF-mediated changes in full thickness 3D skin equivalent models. Nanoindentation was used to measure the Young's modulus (resistance to elastic deformation) of keratinocyte cells under Latrunculin B (LatB)-induced destabilization of the actin cytoskeleton. Immunofluorescence and confocal microscopy were performed on skin equivalents to validate the GFF-induced changes observed in proteomic analysis and identify expression profiles of key structural proteins within the skin.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Aged skin had decreased expression of internal cellular components ‘actin cytoskeleton’ and ‘focal adhesion’. Destabilization of actin cytoskeleton by LatB significantly reduced the Young's modulus of keratinocyte cells. Pre-treatment of keratinocytes with GFF was able to prevent LatB-induced decline of skin cell mechanical properties. Proteomic analysis of full thickness 3D skin equivalent models revealed that GFF increased the expression of ‘actin cytoskeleton’ and ‘anchoring junctions’, especially the actin-binding focal adhesion proteins. Immunofluorescence staining confirmed that GFF upregulated expression of the actin stabilizer, calponin 2 and integrin α2 in basal keratinocytes. GFF increased integrin localisation to the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) and colocalised with collagen IV in vitro, suggesting increased linkage between the epidermis and dermis.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Our data establish the actin cytoskeleton and anchoring junctions which bind it as important cellular structures which decline with age. We also identified that the cellular structures are required for the maintenance of keratinocyte Young's modulus, which could be an important property impacting skin firmness. Furthermore, we have identified that GFF promotes actin stability and builds a rigid holding structure of the anchoring junctions to increase cell–cell and epidermis–dermis anchoring in skin equivalent mode","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"48 1","pages":"16-29"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-07-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC12877982/pdf/","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144707422","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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