Ewa Markiewicz, Nora Ruth, Thomas Mammone, Olusola C. Idowu
Objectives
Antioxidants are vital in skincare for neutralizing reactive oxygen species (ROS), which impact key cellular structures, such as cell nuclei and elastic fibres and can contribute to skin ageing. Oxidative stress, compounded by processes such as glycation, therefore leads to impaired cellular renewal and reduced skin elasticity. The effectiveness of antioxidants depends on their concentrations, making it essential to investigate their dosage-related benefits to optimize skincare formulations. This raises an important question regarding the reciprocal effects of antioxidants on glycation and whether their protective effects against macromolecular damage are dose-dependent.
Methods
This study evaluated the antioxidant and anti-glycation effects of three concentrations of butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), vitamin E and vitamin C. Using the established quantitative assays and immunofluorescence, total antioxidant capacities, the intracellular ROS production, glycation levels and expression of cellular biomarkers were measured in dermal fibroblasts and three-dimensional skin models cultured with methylglyoxal (MGO).
Results
All three antioxidants showed a significant ability to inhibit the formation of intracellular ROS and glycation products induced by MGO. Notably, there were differences in the concentrations required to defend against glycation-induced damage. Whilst the linear dose responses were observed for ROS and glycation inhibition, the protective effect against cellular damage was moderate. The inverse dose–response relationships, particularly in terms of collagen fibre preservation, suggested that higher total antioxidant capacity could have enhanced protective effects. Vitamin C, in particular, exhibited the most pronounced benefits at lower concentrations, suggesting its potential as a key player in combating glycation damage.
Conclusion
The potentially novel aspect of this research lies in the synergistic relationship between the modulation of oxidative stress and glycation. This relationship significantly depends on the concentration of the molecules involved and their antioxidant properties. These findings may lead to more refined approaches in formulating active ingredients tailored to individual needs in personalized skincare.
{"title":"Investigating the dual functions of butylated hydroxytoluene, vitamin E and vitamin C as antioxidants and anti-glycation agents in vitro: Implications for skin health","authors":"Ewa Markiewicz, Nora Ruth, Thomas Mammone, Olusola C. Idowu","doi":"10.1111/ics.13079","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13079","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objectives</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Antioxidants are vital in skincare for neutralizing reactive oxygen species (ROS), which impact key cellular structures, such as cell nuclei and elastic fibres and can contribute to skin ageing. Oxidative stress, compounded by processes such as glycation, therefore leads to impaired cellular renewal and reduced skin elasticity. The effectiveness of antioxidants depends on their concentrations, making it essential to investigate their dosage-related benefits to optimize skincare formulations. This raises an important question regarding the reciprocal effects of antioxidants on glycation and whether their protective effects against macromolecular damage are dose-dependent.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>This study evaluated the antioxidant and anti-glycation effects of three concentrations of butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), vitamin E and vitamin C. Using the established quantitative assays and immunofluorescence, total antioxidant capacities, the intracellular ROS production, glycation levels and expression of cellular biomarkers were measured in dermal fibroblasts and three-dimensional skin models cultured with methylglyoxal (MGO).</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>All three antioxidants showed a significant ability to inhibit the formation of intracellular ROS and glycation products induced by MGO. Notably, there were differences in the concentrations required to defend against glycation-induced damage. Whilst the linear dose responses were observed for ROS and glycation inhibition, the protective effect against cellular damage was moderate. The inverse dose–response relationships, particularly in terms of collagen fibre preservation, suggested that higher total antioxidant capacity could have enhanced protective effects. Vitamin C, in particular, exhibited the most pronounced benefits at lower concentrations, suggesting its potential as a key player in combating glycation damage.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The potentially novel aspect of this research lies in the synergistic relationship between the modulation of oxidative stress and glycation. This relationship significantly depends on the concentration of the molecules involved and their antioxidant properties. These findings may lead to more refined approaches in formulating active ingredients tailored to individual needs in personalized skincare.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 6","pages":"935-950"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-06-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144258049","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Hoai-Thuong Duc Bui, Su Ji Kim, Jihui Jang, Jun Bae Lee, Hyuk Sang Yoo
Objective
Daily sunlight exposure impacts the structural integrity and chemical composition of hair in both reversible and permanent manners. Although keratin-based treatments have been popularly used to repair damaged hair, their effects in the recovery of the hair damage caused by UV light have not been well studied. Moreover, limitations related to keratin penetration depth and duration of effect persist. Encapsulating active ingredients in liposomes has been shown to enhance their stability, bioavailability and permeability. Thus, we aimed to design cationic liposomes encapsulated with keratin to enhance the recovery effects of photo-damaged hair.
Methods
We prepared keratin-incorporated cationic liposomes (KLs) via high-pressure homogenization and assessed their physical properties via hydrodynamic size, zeta potential, electron microscopy and X-ray diffraction analyses. The physical and chemical damage level of hair samples before and after treatment, such as hair smoothness, protein degradation and lipid peroxidation, were subsequently investigated using electron microscopy and different spectroscopies.
Results
The results indicated that the cationic liposomes fabricated by high-pressure homogenization method had combined unilamellar and multilamellar structures. Compared with the keratin solution, the KL suspension significantly improved the permeation of keratin into the cortex during a 24-h incubation. Moreover, 24 and 48-h UV-exposed hairs showed enhanced recovery when incubated with keratin liposomes for 24 h, as evidenced by the observation of a smoother hair surface using electron microscopy. We observed that treatment with keratin liposomes significantly reduced protein denaturation and lipid peroxidation in the photo-damaged hairs.
Conclusion
We anticipate that cationic liposome-assisted keratin delivery may serve as an effective method for restoring photo-damaged hair in both the physical and chemical dimensions.
{"title":"Recovery and protection of photo-damaged hairs with keratin-encapsulated cationic liposomes","authors":"Hoai-Thuong Duc Bui, Su Ji Kim, Jihui Jang, Jun Bae Lee, Hyuk Sang Yoo","doi":"10.1111/ics.13080","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13080","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Daily sunlight exposure impacts the structural integrity and chemical composition of hair in both reversible and permanent manners. Although keratin-based treatments have been popularly used to repair damaged hair, their effects in the recovery of the hair damage caused by UV light have not been well studied. Moreover, limitations related to keratin penetration depth and duration of effect persist. Encapsulating active ingredients in liposomes has been shown to enhance their stability, bioavailability and permeability. Thus, we aimed to design cationic liposomes encapsulated with keratin to enhance the recovery effects of photo-damaged hair.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>We prepared keratin-incorporated cationic liposomes (KLs) via high-pressure homogenization and assessed their physical properties via hydrodynamic size, zeta potential, electron microscopy and X-ray diffraction analyses. The physical and chemical damage level of hair samples before and after treatment, such as hair smoothness, protein degradation and lipid peroxidation, were subsequently investigated using electron microscopy and different spectroscopies.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The results indicated that the cationic liposomes fabricated by high-pressure homogenization method had combined unilamellar and multilamellar structures. Compared with the keratin solution, the KL suspension significantly improved the permeation of keratin into the cortex during a 24-h incubation. Moreover, 24 and 48-h UV-exposed hairs showed enhanced recovery when incubated with keratin liposomes for 24 h, as evidenced by the observation of a smoother hair surface using electron microscopy. We observed that treatment with keratin liposomes significantly reduced protein denaturation and lipid peroxidation in the photo-damaged hairs.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>We anticipate that cationic liposome-assisted keratin delivery may serve as an effective method for restoring photo-damaged hair in both the physical and chemical dimensions.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 4","pages":"730-739"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-06-06","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.13080","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144233947","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Carine Jacques, Maureen Feucherolles, William Le, Jérôme Bour, Camille Boudet, Gautier Doat, Gilles Frache, Hélène Duplan
Objective
Solar irradiation can lead to harmful effects such as skin ageing and cancer. Therefore, the aim of this work was to provide a better understanding of the skin composition and the molecular mechanisms underlying solar-induced damage.
Methods
We measured the impact of sun exposure on the lipidome of a 3D reconstructed human epithelial (RHE) in vitro model, as well as the protective role of a commercial SPF50+ sunscreen on the lipid modulations. MALDI-MSI was used to locate several lipids identified using LC–MS/MS to determine changes in their distribution in the epidermis.
Results
There were 252 lipids in RHE models deregulated by irradiation, including multiple phospholipid classes, triacylglycerols, diacylglycerols, sphingolipids, and ceramides. Of these, only four were still modulated when the sunscreen was applied prior to irradiation. MALDI-MSI imaging of control RHE sections alongside optical images detected 4115 lipids which were tentatively identified using the LipidMaps database associated with distinct areas in the tissue. One key lipid linked to keratinocyte differentiation during photoaging, 25-hydroxycholesterol, was present in low levels in control RHE models but increased significantly after irradiation. The increase was prevented by applying sunscreen prior to irradiation.
Conclusion
A combination of LC–MS/MS and MALDI-MSI enabled the analysis of lipids involved in key pathways altered by irradiation, as well as their location in the epidermis. Importantly, the SPF50+ sunscreen exhibited a protective effect on the epidermis lipidome against modulations due to irradiation. This technology will enable biomarker and pathway-specific events in the epidermis to be monitored after different treatments.
{"title":"Impact of solar irradiation on lipidome dynamics and disruption using an in vitro 3D reconstructed epidermis model and a combination of advanced analytical methods","authors":"Carine Jacques, Maureen Feucherolles, William Le, Jérôme Bour, Camille Boudet, Gautier Doat, Gilles Frache, Hélène Duplan","doi":"10.1111/ics.13077","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13077","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Solar irradiation can lead to harmful effects such as skin ageing and cancer. Therefore, the aim of this work was to provide a better understanding of the skin composition and the molecular mechanisms underlying solar-induced damage.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>We measured the impact of sun exposure on the lipidome of a 3D reconstructed human epithelial (RHE) in vitro model, as well as the protective role of a commercial SPF50+ sunscreen on the lipid modulations. MALDI-MSI was used to locate several lipids identified using LC–MS/MS to determine changes in their distribution in the epidermis.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>There were 252 lipids in RHE models deregulated by irradiation, including multiple phospholipid classes, triacylglycerols, diacylglycerols, sphingolipids, and ceramides. Of these, only four were still modulated when the sunscreen was applied prior to irradiation. MALDI-MSI imaging of control RHE sections alongside optical images detected 4115 lipids which were tentatively identified using the LipidMaps database associated with distinct areas in the tissue. One key lipid linked to keratinocyte differentiation during photoaging, 25-hydroxycholesterol, was present in low levels in control RHE models but increased significantly after irradiation. The increase was prevented by applying sunscreen prior to irradiation.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>A combination of LC–MS/MS and MALDI-MSI enabled the analysis of lipids involved in key pathways altered by irradiation, as well as their location in the epidermis. Importantly, the SPF50+ sunscreen exhibited a protective effect on the epidermis lipidome against modulations due to irradiation. This technology will enable biomarker and pathway-specific events in the epidermis to be monitored after different treatments.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 5","pages":"887-901"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-06-06","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144233945","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Ye Zhong, Qianqian Wang, Yongheng Wang, Rui Ye, Le Du, Fan Hu
Objective
The skin, as the largest organ of the body, plays a critical role in homeostasis and protecting against environmental stressors. Sebaceous glands (SGs) produce sebum, which forms a lipid barrier essential for preventing dehydration and defending against oxidative and microbial damage. However, ageing and environmental factors such as UV exposure and pollution impair SG function, leading to skin dryness and loss of radiance. Pterostilbene, a natural antioxidant with anti-inflammatory effects, has not been extensively studied for its potential impact on ageing SG cells. This study aims to investigate the protective effects of pterostilbene on SG function under UV-induced damage and its role in collagen repair in UV-exposed fibroblasts.
Methods
To examine the effects of pterostilbene on UVA-induced damage, an in vitro model of UV-exposed sebocytes was developed. The influence of pterostilbene on lipid synthesis, reactive oxygen species (ROS) levels and gene expression related to senescence and inflammation was assessed. In parallel, the effects of pterostilbene on collagen synthesis (types I and III) and ROS levels in UV-exposed fibroblasts were analysed. Super-resolution fluorescence microscopy was utilized to visualize collagen production and F-actin integrity in fibroblasts treated with pterostilbene.
Results
Pterostilbene increased lipid synthesis by 16% and reduced ROS levels by 62.43% in UV-damaged sebocytes. Gene expression analysis revealed upregulation of antioxidant genes (Nrf2, Sirt6) and downregulation of differentiation-related genes (Blimp1, c-Myc). In UV-exposed fibroblasts, pterostilbene significantly enhanced collagen types I and III levels and reduced ROS by 40.07%. High-resolution microscopy showed that pterostilbene restored the distribution of F-actin in fibroblasts affected by UVA.
Conclusion
This study demonstrates that pterostilbene effectively protects against UVA-induced damage in both sebocytes and fibroblasts. By promoting lipid synthesis, reducing oxidative stress, and stimulating collagen production, pterostilbene presents a promising natural ingredient for anti-ageing skincare formulations. Its multifunctional mechanisms suggest its potential to enhance skin health by supporting sebaceous gland function and improving overall skin resilience.
{"title":"Pterostilbene: A natural compound for anti-ageing in sebaceous gland cells and fibroblasts","authors":"Ye Zhong, Qianqian Wang, Yongheng Wang, Rui Ye, Le Du, Fan Hu","doi":"10.1111/ics.13078","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13078","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The skin, as the largest organ of the body, plays a critical role in homeostasis and protecting against environmental stressors. Sebaceous glands (SGs) produce sebum, which forms a lipid barrier essential for preventing dehydration and defending against oxidative and microbial damage. However, ageing and environmental factors such as UV exposure and pollution impair SG function, leading to skin dryness and loss of radiance. Pterostilbene, a natural antioxidant with anti-inflammatory effects, has not been extensively studied for its potential impact on ageing SG cells. This study aims to investigate the protective effects of pterostilbene on SG function under UV-induced damage and its role in collagen repair in UV-exposed fibroblasts.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>To examine the effects of pterostilbene on UVA-induced damage, an in vitro model of UV-exposed sebocytes was developed. The influence of pterostilbene on lipid synthesis, reactive oxygen species (ROS) levels and gene expression related to senescence and inflammation was assessed. In parallel, the effects of pterostilbene on collagen synthesis (types I and III) and ROS levels in UV-exposed fibroblasts were analysed. Super-resolution fluorescence microscopy was utilized to visualize collagen production and F-actin integrity in fibroblasts treated with pterostilbene.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Pterostilbene increased lipid synthesis by 16% and reduced ROS levels by 62.43% in UV-damaged sebocytes. Gene expression analysis revealed upregulation of antioxidant genes (Nrf2, Sirt6) and downregulation of differentiation-related genes (Blimp1, c-Myc). In UV-exposed fibroblasts, pterostilbene significantly enhanced collagen types I and III levels and reduced ROS by 40.07%. High-resolution microscopy showed that pterostilbene restored the distribution of F-actin in fibroblasts affected by UVA.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>This study demonstrates that pterostilbene effectively protects against UVA-induced damage in both sebocytes and fibroblasts. By promoting lipid synthesis, reducing oxidative stress, and stimulating collagen production, pterostilbene presents a promising natural ingredient for anti-ageing skincare formulations. Its multifunctional mechanisms suggest its potential to enhance skin health by supporting sebaceous gland function and improving overall skin resilience.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 5","pages":"902-915"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-06-06","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144233946","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
To investigate the role of glycerol and urea in water-holding mechanisms in the stratum corneum (SC) using synchrotron X-ray diffraction and to clarify differences in activity.
Methods
Structural changes in human SC samples treated with water, glycerol, and urea aqueous solutions were measured during drying, focusing on the short lamellar, orthorhombic hydrocarbon-chain packing, and coiled-coil α-helix structure of the soft keratin, which are affected by water.
Results
During drying of the treated SC, the coiled-coil α-helix chain distance decreased due to the removal of bound water. The reduction rate was suppressed in the SC treated with glycerol, followed by those treated with urea. This result suggests that water binding via glycerol is strongest to soft keratin, followed by urea. Furthermore, for the short lamellar structure, we calculated the volume associated with the hydrocarbon chain, its head group, and water in the head group, from which we estimated the quantity of water removal. Initially, the volume was unchanged because no water was removed. Once the SC was treated with glycerol and urea, the volume-unchanged interval was longer than that in the SC treated with water alone. Therefore, glycerol and urea strengthened water retention within the water layer.
Conclusion
Taken together with the results obtained from the solid-state NMR analysis of the soft keratin, the present results indicate that glycerol enhances the retention of the maximum bound water of 25 wt% in the SC, whereas urea retains it somewhat weakly. Therefore, from the results of in vivo confocal Raman microscopy, which indicated that the water content near the surface of the normal skin is approximately 25 wt%, it is deduced that the maximum bound water content is strongly held at the skin surface with the aid of glycerol or urea. On the other hand, it was found that the lipid lamellar structure serves to regulate the water content to maintain it at 25 wt% and glycerol and urea work to enhance this regulation mechanism. Owing to the above two mechanisms, the water content at the skin surface is maintained at 25 wt% homeostatically, and the homeostatic state is strengthened by glycerol and urea.
{"title":"Enhancement of water homeostasis by glycerol and urea in stratum corneum and the difference in the activity between them","authors":"Ryosuke Toyoshima, Kenji Murashima, Ichiro Hatta","doi":"10.1111/ics.13069","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13069","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>To investigate the role of glycerol and urea in water-holding mechanisms in the stratum corneum (SC) using synchrotron X-ray diffraction and to clarify differences in activity.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Structural changes in human SC samples treated with water, glycerol, and urea aqueous solutions were measured during drying, focusing on the short lamellar, orthorhombic hydrocarbon-chain packing, and coiled-coil α-helix structure of the soft keratin, which are affected by water.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>During drying of the treated SC, the coiled-coil α-helix chain distance decreased due to the removal of bound water. The reduction rate was suppressed in the SC treated with glycerol, followed by those treated with urea. This result suggests that water binding via glycerol is strongest to soft keratin, followed by urea. Furthermore, for the short lamellar structure, we calculated the volume associated with the hydrocarbon chain, its head group, and water in the head group, from which we estimated the quantity of water removal. Initially, the volume was unchanged because no water was removed. Once the SC was treated with glycerol and urea, the volume-unchanged interval was longer than that in the SC treated with water alone. Therefore, glycerol and urea strengthened water retention within the water layer.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Taken together with the results obtained from the solid-state NMR analysis of the soft keratin, the present results indicate that glycerol enhances the retention of the maximum bound water of 25 wt% in the SC, whereas urea retains it somewhat weakly. Therefore, from the results of in vivo confocal Raman microscopy, which indicated that the water content near the surface of the normal skin is approximately 25 wt%, it is deduced that the maximum bound water content is strongly held at the skin surface with the aid of glycerol or urea. On the other hand, it was found that the lipid lamellar structure serves to regulate the water content to maintain it at 25 wt% and glycerol and urea work to enhance this regulation mechanism. Owing to the above two mechanisms, the water content at the skin surface is maintained at 25 wt% homeostatically, and the homeostatic state is strengthened by glycerol and urea.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 5","pages":"864-876"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-05-21","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144110559","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Detailed understanding of the indigo and indirubin synthesis pathway to control their formation and the corresponding colour result on hair should be obtained. Managing the formation of the dye molecules indigo and indirubin the characteristic colour shift which takes place within the days after application of Indigoferatinctoria L.-based hair colouration should be eliminated. Thus, intense, more reliable and stable colour results on hair from the natural resource I. tinctoria L. are achieved offering benefits to the consumer resulting in higher acceptance of plant-based colouration products.
Methods
Various colourations with I. tinctoria L. crushed leaves powder and cysteine, isatin or ascorbic acid on yak hair strands were carried out at room temperature or 37°C. Colour assessment was conducted with L*-, a*-, and b*-values/coordinates of three-dimensional CIE-Lab-colour. Coloured hair strands were pulverized with a ball mill to extract dyeing compounds from hair fibres with either a mixture of ultrapure water and acetonitrile or dimethyl sulfoxide at 80°C. Afterwards, the supernatant was collected, and dyeing compounds were quantified via high-performance liquid chromatography.
Results
It was proven that delayed development of indirubin in addition to the directly formed indigo molecule leads to the observed colour shift on hair fibres when dyeing them with I. tinctoria L. Further, a previously unseen, immediate formation of a stable red colour result was achieved by introducing isatin and cysteine or ascorbic acid to the dyeing procedure. By extraction and subsequent analysis of the dye molecules from the coloured hair fibres, it was confirmed that the addition of isatin and a reducing agent to indigo dyeing prevents the formation of the indigo molecule and favours the formation of indirubin.
Conclusion
Based on the findings, including the instant formation of indirubin instead of the indigo molecule in the presence of isatin and cysteine or ascorbic acid causing an immediate stable red colour result after the application of I. tinctoria L. on hair, a revised indigo and indirubin synthesis pathway for I. tinctoria L. application including the effect of said additives to the colour outcome is presented.
{"title":"Indirubin as a red hair Colourant from Indigofera tinctoria L.","authors":"Skrollan Klaas, Volkmar Vill, Fabian Straske","doi":"10.1111/ics.13076","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13076","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Detailed understanding of the indigo and indirubin synthesis pathway to control their formation and the corresponding colour result on hair should be obtained. Managing the formation of the dye molecules indigo and indirubin the characteristic colour shift which takes place within the days after application of <i>Indigofera</i> <i>tinctoria L.-based</i> hair colouration should be eliminated. Thus, intense, more reliable and stable colour results on hair from the natural resource <i>I. tinctoria</i> L. are achieved offering benefits to the consumer resulting in higher acceptance of plant-based colouration products.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Various colourations with <i>I. tinctoria</i> L. crushed leaves powder and cysteine, isatin or ascorbic acid on yak hair strands were carried out at room temperature or 37°C. Colour assessment was conducted with L*-, a*-, and b*-values/coordinates of three-dimensional CIE-Lab-colour. Coloured hair strands were pulverized with a ball mill to extract dyeing compounds from hair fibres with either a mixture of ultrapure water and acetonitrile or dimethyl sulfoxide at 80°C. Afterwards, the supernatant was collected, and dyeing compounds were quantified via high-performance liquid chromatography.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>It was proven that delayed development of indirubin in addition to the directly formed indigo molecule leads to the observed colour shift on hair fibres when dyeing them with <i>I. tinctoria</i> L. Further, a previously unseen, immediate formation of a stable red colour result was achieved by introducing isatin and cysteine or ascorbic acid to the dyeing procedure. By extraction and subsequent analysis of the dye molecules from the coloured hair fibres, it was confirmed that the addition of isatin and a reducing agent to indigo dyeing prevents the formation of the indigo molecule and favours the formation of indirubin.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Based on the findings, including the instant formation of indirubin instead of the indigo molecule in the presence of isatin and cysteine or ascorbic acid causing an immediate stable red colour result after the application of <i>I. tinctoria</i> L. on hair, a revised indigo and indirubin synthesis pathway for <i>I. tinctoria</i> L. application including the effect of said additives to the colour outcome is presented.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 5","pages":"877-886"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-05-21","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.13076","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144119706","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Hair loss is a complex multifactorial process. The mechanisms by which caffeine and adenosine act against hair loss have been extensively researched, but little is known about their effects on the microbiome and lipidome of the scalp. Hair loss may be associated with the status of scalp microbiota and lipids. Further investigation is warranted to determine whether caffeine and adenosine can regulate scalp microbiota and lipids and thus help to prevent hair loss. The objective of this study was to assess the effect of shampoo containing caffeine and adenosine on the scalp microbiome and lipidome in subjects experiencing hair loss who were aged between 18 and 60 years. The study was a randomized, single-blind and parallel comparison trial involving full scalp treatment, which was conducted among 30 subjects experiencing hair loss. Samples were collected from subjects at baseline and at 12 weeks (±3 days). Microbiomes were analysed via 16S rDNA and ITS1 sequencing. Lipidome analysis was carried out using ultra-high performance liquid chromatography–tandem mass spectrometry (UPLC-MS/MS). At 12 weeks, significant clinical characteristics indicating an anti-hair loss effect were evident. Abundances of Pseudomonas, Escherichia-Shigella and Malassezia all decreased in the experimental group, whereas those of Talaromyces and Cutibacterium increased. In addition, levels of triglyceride (TG), diglyceride (DG), ceramide (Cer) and ceramide-1-phosphate (CerP) were all significantly impacted in the experimental group. Furthermore, abundances of lipid metabolites were tightly correlated with those of Escherichia-Shigella and Talaromyces. Caffeine and adenosine may enhance the anti-hair loss process through their effects on the lipidome and microbiome of the scalp.
{"title":"The effects of caffeine and adenosine on the microbiome and lipidome of the scalp","authors":"Fengzhu Li, Shulin Liu, Zhaoying Han, Yingtian Li, Haowei Chen, Qingying Shi, Jie Tan, Xihong He, Xinyan Liu, Huabing Zhao, Fang Wang","doi":"10.1111/ics.13072","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13072","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Hair loss is a complex multifactorial process. The mechanisms by which caffeine and adenosine act against hair loss have been extensively researched, but little is known about their effects on the microbiome and lipidome of the scalp. Hair loss may be associated with the status of scalp microbiota and lipids. Further investigation is warranted to determine whether caffeine and adenosine can regulate scalp microbiota and lipids and thus help to prevent hair loss. The objective of this study was to assess the effect of shampoo containing caffeine and adenosine on the scalp microbiome and lipidome in subjects experiencing hair loss who were aged between 18 and 60 years. The study was a randomized, single-blind and parallel comparison trial involving full scalp treatment, which was conducted among 30 subjects experiencing hair loss. Samples were collected from subjects at baseline and at 12 weeks (±3 days). Microbiomes were analysed via 16S rDNA and ITS1 sequencing. Lipidome analysis was carried out using ultra-high performance liquid chromatography–tandem mass spectrometry (UPLC-MS/MS). At 12 weeks, significant clinical characteristics indicating an anti-hair loss effect were evident. Abundances of <i>Pseudomonas</i>, <i>Escherichia-Shigella</i> and <i>Malassezia</i> all decreased in the experimental group, whereas those of <i>Talaromyces</i> and <i>Cutibacterium</i> increased. In addition, levels of triglyceride (TG), diglyceride (DG), ceramide (Cer) and ceramide-1-phosphate (CerP) were all significantly impacted in the experimental group. Furthermore, abundances of lipid metabolites were tightly correlated with those of <i>Escherichia-Shigella</i> and <i>Talaromyces</i>. Caffeine and adenosine may enhance the anti-hair loss process through their effects on the lipidome and microbiome of the scalp.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 5","pages":"916-930"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-05-21","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.13072","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144110567","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
The main objective of this research work is to understand how skin glow is perceived by women in Thailand. As the market is so rapidly evolving the consumers are clear about their expectations from skin care cosmetic products where they expect glowing skin as a key benefit with whatever skin colour they have.
Aims
To decode glow understanding of Thai women
Materials and Methods
A hybrid consumer and instrumental evaluation study done on Thai women with qualitative interviews of glow-seeking women and then capturing the skin colour, kinetics using instruments before and after using their skincare routine.
Results
The research helped to decode that in the Thai women population, dry skin is less prevalent as they perceived their skin to be dry (Corneometer value < 40), while 91% of the population perceived their skin to be normal, with a capacitance value ranging 55–62 units. In terms of skin colour of these women, it represents skin tone clusters Light warm, Light cool and Medium tones.
Discussion
From this research, we also understand the attributes linked to ideal skin glow are shine, suppleness and even skin, along with what key product deliverables are required to meet the consumer expectation.
Conclusion
The present study indicates some specificities of Thai consumers, whose expectations seem slightly different from other Asian needs. However this work is limited only to the immediate effects of cosmetic products. It is worth investigating further the long-term effects on the evolution of glow, the efficacy of different products that can best improve the facial glow to address the skin concerns and its correlation with the routine that is relevant to consumers.
{"title":"Characterizing the skin of Thai women and its glow by combining consumer assessments and instrumental methods","authors":"Rashmi Kelkar, Rima Rakshit, Hemali Pandya, Mohammedali Sajun, Neha Sirkek, Agrawal Divya, Muller Benoit, Flament Frederic","doi":"10.1111/ics.13071","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13071","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Background</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The main objective of this research work is to understand how skin glow is perceived by women in Thailand. As the market is so rapidly evolving the consumers are clear about their expectations from skin care cosmetic products where they expect glowing skin as a key benefit with whatever skin colour they have.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Aims</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>To decode glow understanding of Thai women</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Materials and Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>A hybrid consumer and instrumental evaluation study done on Thai women with qualitative interviews of glow-seeking women and then capturing the skin colour, kinetics using instruments before and after using their skincare routine.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The research helped to decode that in the Thai women population, dry skin is less prevalent as they perceived their skin to be dry (Corneometer value < 40), while 91% of the population perceived their skin to be normal, with a capacitance value ranging 55–62 units. In terms of skin colour of these women, it represents skin tone clusters Light warm, Light cool and Medium tones.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Discussion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>From this research, we also understand the attributes linked to ideal skin glow are shine, suppleness and even skin, along with what key product deliverables are required to meet the consumer expectation.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The present study indicates some specificities of Thai consumers, whose expectations seem slightly different from other Asian needs. However this work is limited only to the immediate effects of cosmetic products. It is worth investigating further the long-term effects on the evolution of glow, the efficacy of different products that can best improve the facial glow to address the skin concerns and its correlation with the routine that is relevant to consumers.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 5","pages":"827-834"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-05-20","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144101852","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
M. Pissavini, F. Pouradier, G. Wiener, M. Contier, L. Kolbe, L. Nogueira, P. Lapalud, G. Renner, P. J. Matts
Despite limited consumer understanding of sunscreen labelling, product choice remains primarily driven by the labelled Sun Protection Factor (SPF), alongside UVA protection and water resistance claims. To ensure the reliability of these key parameters, validated and reproducible testing methods are essential. In response to recent ISO publications on in vivo water resistance evaluation, the Cosmetics Europe Sun Protection Methods Task Force has initiated the development of a robust in vitro alternative. Current in vitro approaches are based on thin-film UV transmittance techniques, but their accuracy is highly sensitive to film homogeneity, both during application and after immersion. It has been shown that immersion can induce film rearrangement, altering UV absorbance without necessarily reducing active ingredient content. This may lead to atypical results, including apparent increases in SPF values post-immersion. Here, in a ring-testing approach, we investigate a new method for determining the in vitro water resistance of sunscreen products. This study aims to identify the most robust and predictive in vitro alternative, contributing to the development of a standardized and scientifically reliable method for water resistance assessment in sunscreen products.
{"title":"A new in vitro approach for determining the water resistance of sunscreen products, validated by a blinded ring test","authors":"M. Pissavini, F. Pouradier, G. Wiener, M. Contier, L. Kolbe, L. Nogueira, P. Lapalud, G. Renner, P. J. Matts","doi":"10.1111/ics.13074","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13074","url":null,"abstract":"<p>Despite limited consumer understanding of sunscreen labelling, product choice remains primarily driven by the labelled Sun Protection Factor (SPF), alongside UVA protection and water resistance claims. To ensure the reliability of these key parameters, validated and reproducible testing methods are essential. In response to recent ISO publications on in vivo water resistance evaluation, the Cosmetics Europe Sun Protection Methods Task Force has initiated the development of a robust in vitro alternative. Current in vitro approaches are based on thin-film UV transmittance techniques, but their accuracy is highly sensitive to film homogeneity, both during application and after immersion. It has been shown that immersion can induce film rearrangement, altering UV absorbance without necessarily reducing active ingredient content. This may lead to atypical results, including apparent increases in SPF values post-immersion. Here, in a ring-testing approach, we investigate a new method for determining the in vitro water resistance of sunscreen products. This study aims to identify the most robust and predictive in vitro alternative, contributing to the development of a standardized and scientifically reliable method for water resistance assessment in sunscreen products.</p>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 5","pages":"851-863"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-05-20","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144101850","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Daniel D. Shill, Hannah N. Stade, Kayla C. Goodson, Monica A. Beltran, Deana Haller, Meg Benson, Maureen D. Drumwright, Durant Scholz
<div> <section> <h3> Objective</h3> <p>Green tea extracts are utilized widely within the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries given the large amount of evidence supporting a diverse range of health benefits. The cosmetic effects of green tea extracts depend on manufacturing methods, and a viable green tea extract exhibiting a diverse functional portfolio to meet consumer demands for comprehensive skin benefits is lacking. To fully capture the diverse nature of skincare products, a novel assay was developed to identify the impact of green tea extracts on the relationship between immune cell function and dermal microorganisms. Accordingly, the present study investigated the effect of a <i>Camellia sinensis</i> Leaf Extract (CSLE) on in vitro mechanisms and in vivo indicators of skin health and well-being. This study provides the first evidence of CSLE's immunomodulatory properties on skin microorganisms via dendritic cell signalling molecules, in addition to enhancing relaxation through alpha brainwave activity with topical CSLE application.</p> </section> <section> <h3> Methods</h3> <p>In vitro and <i>in chemico</i> pre-clinical experiments were implemented to determine the immunomodulatory, detoxification, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties of CSLE. Additionally, in vivo clinical studies were performed to examine the impact of topical CSLE application on acute and residual mood states, skin hydration, barrier function, rejuvenation and facial skin health.</p> </section> <section> <h3> Results</h3> <p>Pre-clinical investigations illustrated CSLE augmented the ability of signalling molecules released from dendritic cells to kill detrimental microorganisms while maintaining commensal microorganisms commonly found on the skin. Furthermore, CSLE increased cellular detoxification, reduced inflammation and exhibited potent antioxidant capacity. Regarding clinical studies, acute topical CSLE application enhanced relaxation and improved residual feelings of self-worth and mood while augmenting skin hydration, barrier function and rejuvenation. Moreover, long-term CSLE application improved facial skin health and lowered skin age.</p> </section> <section> <h3> Conclusion</h3> <p>Collectively, CSLE retains detoxification, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties while improving mood states, skin hydration, skin barrier function, skin rejuvenation and facial skin health. Notably, we provide the first evidence of CSLE's immunomodulatory properties on skin microorganisms via dendritic cell signalling molecules, in addition to enhancing relaxation through alpha brainwave activity with topical CSLE application. Overall, the present
{"title":"Pleiotropic effects of a Camellia sinensis leaf extract on in vitro and in vivo skin health characteristics","authors":"Daniel D. Shill, Hannah N. Stade, Kayla C. Goodson, Monica A. Beltran, Deana Haller, Meg Benson, Maureen D. Drumwright, Durant Scholz","doi":"10.1111/ics.13073","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13073","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Green tea extracts are utilized widely within the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries given the large amount of evidence supporting a diverse range of health benefits. The cosmetic effects of green tea extracts depend on manufacturing methods, and a viable green tea extract exhibiting a diverse functional portfolio to meet consumer demands for comprehensive skin benefits is lacking. To fully capture the diverse nature of skincare products, a novel assay was developed to identify the impact of green tea extracts on the relationship between immune cell function and dermal microorganisms. Accordingly, the present study investigated the effect of a <i>Camellia sinensis</i> Leaf Extract (CSLE) on in vitro mechanisms and in vivo indicators of skin health and well-being. This study provides the first evidence of CSLE's immunomodulatory properties on skin microorganisms via dendritic cell signalling molecules, in addition to enhancing relaxation through alpha brainwave activity with topical CSLE application.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>In vitro and <i>in chemico</i> pre-clinical experiments were implemented to determine the immunomodulatory, detoxification, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties of CSLE. Additionally, in vivo clinical studies were performed to examine the impact of topical CSLE application on acute and residual mood states, skin hydration, barrier function, rejuvenation and facial skin health.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Pre-clinical investigations illustrated CSLE augmented the ability of signalling molecules released from dendritic cells to kill detrimental microorganisms while maintaining commensal microorganisms commonly found on the skin. Furthermore, CSLE increased cellular detoxification, reduced inflammation and exhibited potent antioxidant capacity. Regarding clinical studies, acute topical CSLE application enhanced relaxation and improved residual feelings of self-worth and mood while augmenting skin hydration, barrier function and rejuvenation. Moreover, long-term CSLE application improved facial skin health and lowered skin age.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Collectively, CSLE retains detoxification, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties while improving mood states, skin hydration, skin barrier function, skin rejuvenation and facial skin health. Notably, we provide the first evidence of CSLE's immunomodulatory properties on skin microorganisms via dendritic cell signalling molecules, in addition to enhancing relaxation through alpha brainwave activity with topical CSLE application. Overall, the present","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 5","pages":"835-850"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-05-20","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144110564","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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