International Journal of Cosmetic Science最新文献_第10页

Development of niacinamide cosmetic bioadhesive emulgel using QbD approach QbD法制备烟酰胺化妆品生物胶粘剂乳液。

IF 2.5 4区医学 Q2 DERMATOLOGY

International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Pub Date : 2025-06-17 DOI: 10.1111/ics.13083

M. S. Magi, R. Guasamucare, C. Giorgi, Y. de Lafuente, M. C. Palena, M. E. Parente, A. F. Jimenez-Kairuz, A. Ochoa-Andrade

Objective

The aim of the present study was to develop a cosmetic bioadhesive emulgel to incorporate niacinamide (NMD), based on the combination of sodium hyaluronate and carbomer, using the Quality by Design (QbD) approach.

Methods

It was decided to design first a bioadhesive vehicle and after selecting the best formulation, to load the NMD into the optimized final emulgel. The potential interaction reported in the literature between the selected bioadhesive polymers was investigated by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and Raman confocal microscopy. The effect of formulation variables on quality attributes (phase separation by mechanical stress, adhesion, viscosity and spreadability) of the emulgels was studied. Response-surface methodology was applied to optimize the formulation. After optimization, the final NMD emulgel was further characterized by rheometry assay, and ex vivo bioadhesion properties and skin absorption of NMD using human skin.

Results

No relevant interaction between both bioadhesive polymers at the working conditions was found. Emulgel formulations were physically stable, showed uniform spreadability and appropriate viscosity and detachment force values. A high percentage of the dosage of NMD in the optimized emulgel was accumulated between the skin surface and its upper layers over 24 h. In addition, no evidence of permeation through the full skin was found, which complied with the desired low systemic distribution.

Conclusions

NMD was successfully vehiculized in a bioadhesive emulgel developed using the QbD approach. No significant changes in the critical quality attributes of the bioadhesive vehicle were observed after the incorporation of the active ingredient. The product, designed to present an increased residence time on the application site, provides a time frame to facilitate its performance, enabling the active ingredient to remain accumulated between the skin surface and its upper layers. Finally, and most importantly, QbD, a time-and cost-saving development approach that leads to high-quality products, proved to be an invaluable tool in this scientifically driven cosmetic project.

目的：采用设计质量法，以透明质酸钠和卡波姆复合为基础，研制化妆品用烟酰胺生物胶粘剂乳液。方法：首先设计生物黏附载体，选择最佳配方后，将NMD装入优化后的乳状液中。利用傅里叶变换红外光谱和拉曼共聚焦显微镜研究了文献中所报道的生物粘合剂聚合物之间的潜在相互作用。研究了配方变量对乳液质量属性（机械应力相分离、附着力、粘度和展涂性）的影响。采用响应面法对配方进行优化。优化后的NMD乳状液进一步通过流变学实验进行表征，并对NMD的体外生物粘附性能和人体皮肤吸收性能进行了测试。结果：在工作条件下，两种生物胶粘剂聚合物之间没有相互作用。乳液配方物理稳定，具有均匀的涂抹性和合适的粘度和剥离力值。优化后的乳液中NMD的高剂量在24小时内积聚在皮肤表面和上层之间。此外，没有发现渗透到整个皮肤的证据，这符合期望的低全身分布。结论：采用QbD方法成功地将NMD载于生物胶粘剂凝胶中。在加入活性成分后，未观察到生物粘合剂载体的关键质量属性发生显著变化。该产品旨在增加在应用部位的停留时间，提供一个时间框架以促进其性能，使活性成分在皮肤表面和上层之间保持积累。最后，也是最重要的是，QbD，一种节省时间和成本的开发方法，可以产生高质量的产品，在这个科学驱动的化妆品项目中被证明是一个宝贵的工具。

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引用次数: 0

Preliminary evaluation of a comprehensive skincare regimen for enhancing skin health following advanced optimal pulse technology (AOPT) treatment 综合护肤方案的初步评估，以提高皮肤健康后，先进的最佳脉冲技术（AOPT）治疗。

IF 2.5 4区医学 Q2 DERMATOLOGY

International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Pub Date : 2025-06-11 DOI: 10.1111/ics.13075

Han Tao, Liyuan Qiao, Qiongzhi Wu, Sheng Meng, Qiong Gu, Jingbo Ma

Background

Maintaining skin barrier integrity and promoting resilience following aesthetic dermatological treatments are critical for effective recovery and sustained skin health.

Aim

To evaluate the post-treatment efficacy of a skincare regimen containing active ingredients, including rhodophyceae extract, ergothioneine, and L-carnosine, designed to enhance skin barrier function and facilitate recovery after advanced optimal pulse technology (AOPT) treatment.

Methods

In March 2023, a study was conducted in Shanghai, targeting healthy Chinese female adults aged 20–60 with Fitzpatrick skin types II–IV. The selected participants embarked on a controlled skincare routine after receiving AOPT treatments, followed by a daily skincare regimen. The efficacy of this regimen was rigorously evaluated through clinical and instrumental assessments, including the use of the Vapometer for measuring transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and the Cutometer for assessing skin elasticity and self-assessments.

Results

Thirty-five female Chinese participants aged 20–60 were recruited to assess the efficacy of the skincare regime, with a completion rate of 92.9%. Over 4 weeks, the skincare regimen significantly reduced TEWL by 24.09% (p < 0.05), improved skin elasticity with increases of 7.91% in Total Recovery Percentage (Q1) and 8.96% in Gross Elasticity (R2), and decreased redness by 23.08%, dryness by 79.31%, and desquamation by 75.00% (p < 0.05). Participants also reported reductions in stinging, itching, and burning sensations, alongside improvements in skin plumpness, smoothness, radiance, firmness, and tone evenness. Aesthetic enhancements included reductions in fine lines, wrinkles, cheek pores, and facial sagging (p < 0.05).

Conclusions

The findings indicate that this targeted skincare regimen effectively enhances post-AOPT skin recovery by improving barrier function, hydration, and elasticity. While these results demonstrate the regimen's benefits, future studies incorporating control groups are warranted to further validate its efficacy.

背景：在皮肤美容治疗后保持皮肤屏障的完整性和促进弹性是有效恢复和持续皮肤健康的关键。目的：评价一种含有rhodophyceae提取物、麦角硫因和l -肌肽的有效成分的护肤方案的治疗后疗效，该方案旨在增强皮肤屏障功能，促进先进最佳脉冲技术（AOPT）治疗后的恢复。方法：于2023年3月在上海开展了一项针对20-60岁Fitzpatrick皮肤II-IV型的中国健康成年女性的研究。被选中的参与者在接受AOPT治疗后开始了一项有控制的护肤程序，随后是日常护肤方案。该方案的疗效通过临床和仪器评估进行严格评估，包括使用Vapometer测量经皮失水（TEWL）和Cutometer评估皮肤弹性和自我评估。结果：招募了35名年龄在20-60岁的中国女性参与者来评估护肤方案的疗效，完成率为92.9%。在4周的时间里，护肤方案显著降低了24.09%的TEWL (p)。结论：研究结果表明，这种有针对性的护肤方案通过改善屏障功能、水合作用和弹性，有效地促进了aopt后皮肤的恢复。虽然这些结果证明了该方案的益处，但未来的研究将纳入对照组，以进一步验证其有效性。

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引用次数: 0

Investigating the dual functions of butylated hydroxytoluene, vitamin E and vitamin C as antioxidants and anti-glycation agents in vitro: Implications for skin health 体外研究丁基羟基甲苯、维生素E和维生素C作为抗氧化剂和抗糖化剂的双重功能：对皮肤健康的影响

IF 2.5 4区医学 Q2 DERMATOLOGY

International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Pub Date : 2025-06-09 DOI: 10.1111/ics.13079

Ewa Markiewicz, Nora Ruth, Thomas Mammone, Olusola C. Idowu

Objectives

Antioxidants are vital in skincare for neutralizing reactive oxygen species (ROS), which impact key cellular structures, such as cell nuclei and elastic fibres and can contribute to skin ageing. Oxidative stress, compounded by processes such as glycation, therefore leads to impaired cellular renewal and reduced skin elasticity. The effectiveness of antioxidants depends on their concentrations, making it essential to investigate their dosage-related benefits to optimize skincare formulations. This raises an important question regarding the reciprocal effects of antioxidants on glycation and whether their protective effects against macromolecular damage are dose-dependent.

Methods

This study evaluated the antioxidant and anti-glycation effects of three concentrations of butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), vitamin E and vitamin C. Using the established quantitative assays and immunofluorescence, total antioxidant capacities, the intracellular ROS production, glycation levels and expression of cellular biomarkers were measured in dermal fibroblasts and three-dimensional skin models cultured with methylglyoxal (MGO).

Results

All three antioxidants showed a significant ability to inhibit the formation of intracellular ROS and glycation products induced by MGO. Notably, there were differences in the concentrations required to defend against glycation-induced damage. Whilst the linear dose responses were observed for ROS and glycation inhibition, the protective effect against cellular damage was moderate. The inverse dose–response relationships, particularly in terms of collagen fibre preservation, suggested that higher total antioxidant capacity could have enhanced protective effects. Vitamin C, in particular, exhibited the most pronounced benefits at lower concentrations, suggesting its potential as a key player in combating glycation damage.

Conclusion

The potentially novel aspect of this research lies in the synergistic relationship between the modulation of oxidative stress and glycation. This relationship significantly depends on the concentration of the molecules involved and their antioxidant properties. These findings may lead to more refined approaches in formulating active ingredients tailored to individual needs in personalized skincare.

目的：抗氧化剂在皮肤护理中对中和活性氧（ROS）至关重要，活性氧会影响关键的细胞结构，如细胞核和弹性纤维，并可能导致皮肤老化。氧化应激加上糖基化等过程，导致细胞更新受损，皮肤弹性降低。抗氧化剂的有效性取决于它们的浓度，因此有必要研究它们与剂量相关的益处，以优化护肤配方。这就提出了一个重要的问题，即抗氧化剂对糖基化的相互作用以及它们对大分子损伤的保护作用是否具有剂量依赖性。方法：本研究评估了三种浓度的丁基羟基甲苯（BHT）、维生素E和维生素c的抗氧化和抗糖基化作用。采用建立的定量分析方法和免疫荧光法，测定了真皮成纤维细胞和用甲基乙二醛（MGO）培养的三维皮肤模型的总抗氧化能力、细胞内ROS生成、糖基化水平和细胞生物标志物的表达。结果：这三种抗氧化剂均能显著抑制MGO诱导的细胞内ROS和糖基化产物的形成。值得注意的是，防御糖基化引起的损伤所需的浓度存在差异。虽然观察到ROS和糖基化抑制的线性剂量反应，但对细胞损伤的保护作用是中等的。相反的剂量-反应关系，特别是在胶原纤维保存方面，表明更高的总抗氧化能力可能具有增强的保护作用。特别是维生素C，在较低浓度下表现出最明显的益处，这表明它在对抗糖基化损伤方面具有关键作用。结论：本研究潜在的新方面在于氧化应激调节和糖基化之间的协同关系。这种关系在很大程度上取决于所涉及分子的浓度及其抗氧化性能。这些发现可能会导致更精细的方法来制定有效成分，以适应个性化护肤的个人需求。

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引用次数: 0

Recovery and protection of photo-damaged hairs with keratin-encapsulated cationic liposomes 角蛋白包封阳离子脂质体对光损伤头发的修复与保护。

IF 2.5 4区医学 Q2 DERMATOLOGY

International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Pub Date : 2025-06-06 DOI: 10.1111/ics.13080

Hoai-Thuong Duc Bui, Su Ji Kim, Jihui Jang, Jun Bae Lee, Hyuk Sang Yoo

Objective

Daily sunlight exposure impacts the structural integrity and chemical composition of hair in both reversible and permanent manners. Although keratin-based treatments have been popularly used to repair damaged hair, their effects in the recovery of the hair damage caused by UV light have not been well studied. Moreover, limitations related to keratin penetration depth and duration of effect persist. Encapsulating active ingredients in liposomes has been shown to enhance their stability, bioavailability and permeability. Thus, we aimed to design cationic liposomes encapsulated with keratin to enhance the recovery effects of photo-damaged hair.

Methods

We prepared keratin-incorporated cationic liposomes (KLs) via high-pressure homogenization and assessed their physical properties via hydrodynamic size, zeta potential, electron microscopy and X-ray diffraction analyses. The physical and chemical damage level of hair samples before and after treatment, such as hair smoothness, protein degradation and lipid peroxidation, were subsequently investigated using electron microscopy and different spectroscopies.

Results

The results indicated that the cationic liposomes fabricated by high-pressure homogenization method had combined unilamellar and multilamellar structures. Compared with the keratin solution, the KL suspension significantly improved the permeation of keratin into the cortex during a 24-h incubation. Moreover, 24 and 48-h UV-exposed hairs showed enhanced recovery when incubated with keratin liposomes for 24 h, as evidenced by the observation of a smoother hair surface using electron microscopy. We observed that treatment with keratin liposomes significantly reduced protein denaturation and lipid peroxidation in the photo-damaged hairs.

Conclusion

We anticipate that cationic liposome-assisted keratin delivery may serve as an effective method for restoring photo-damaged hair in both the physical and chemical dimensions.

目的：日常阳光照射对头发的结构完整性和化学成分的影响既有可逆的，也有永久的。虽然以角蛋白为基础的治疗方法已被广泛用于修复受损的头发，但它们对紫外线造成的头发损伤的恢复效果还没有得到很好的研究。此外，与角蛋白渗透深度和作用持续时间有关的限制仍然存在。在脂质体中包封活性成分已被证明可以提高它们的稳定性、生物利用度和渗透性。因此，我们旨在设计角蛋白包裹的阳离子脂质体来增强光损伤头发的恢复效果。方法：采用高压均质法制备角蛋白阳离子脂质体（KLs），并通过流体力学尺寸、zeta电位、电子显微镜和x射线衍射分析对其物理性质进行评价。随后，利用电子显微镜和不同光谱研究了处理前后头发样品的物理和化学损伤水平，如头发光滑度、蛋白质降解和脂质过氧化。结果：高压均质法制备的阳离子脂质体具有单层和多层结构。与角蛋白溶液相比，在24小时的孵育过程中，KL悬浮液显著提高了角蛋白向皮质的渗透。此外，当角蛋白脂质体孵育24小时时，暴露在紫外线下24和48小时的毛发恢复增强，电镜观察到毛发表面更光滑。我们观察到，角蛋白脂质体处理显著减少了光损伤头发中的蛋白质变性和脂质过氧化。结论：我们预计阳离子脂质体辅助角蛋白递送可能在物理和化学方面成为修复光损伤头发的有效方法。

{"title":"Recovery and protection of photo-damaged hairs with keratin-encapsulated cationic liposomes","authors":"Hoai-Thuong Duc Bui, Su Ji Kim, Jihui Jang, Jun Bae Lee, Hyuk Sang Yoo","doi":"10.1111/ics.13080","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13080","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Daily sunlight exposure impacts the structural integrity and chemical composition of hair in both reversible and permanent manners. Although keratin-based treatments have been popularly used to repair damaged hair, their effects in the recovery of the hair damage caused by UV light have not been well studied. Moreover, limitations related to keratin penetration depth and duration of effect persist. Encapsulating active ingredients in liposomes has been shown to enhance their stability, bioavailability and permeability. Thus, we aimed to design cationic liposomes encapsulated with keratin to enhance the recovery effects of photo-damaged hair.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>We prepared keratin-incorporated cationic liposomes (KLs) via high-pressure homogenization and assessed their physical properties via hydrodynamic size, zeta potential, electron microscopy and X-ray diffraction analyses. The physical and chemical damage level of hair samples before and after treatment, such as hair smoothness, protein degradation and lipid peroxidation, were subsequently investigated using electron microscopy and different spectroscopies.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>The results indicated that the cationic liposomes fabricated by high-pressure homogenization method had combined unilamellar and multilamellar structures. Compared with the keratin solution, the KL suspension significantly improved the permeation of keratin into the cortex during a 24-h incubation. Moreover, 24 and 48-h UV-exposed hairs showed enhanced recovery when incubated with keratin liposomes for 24 h, as evidenced by the observation of a smoother hair surface using electron microscopy. We observed that treatment with keratin liposomes significantly reduced protein denaturation and lipid peroxidation in the photo-damaged hairs.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>We anticipate that cationic liposome-assisted keratin delivery may serve as an effective method for restoring photo-damaged hair in both the physical and chemical dimensions.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 4","pages":"730-739"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-06-06","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.13080","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144233947","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Impact of solar irradiation on lipidome dynamics and disruption using an in vitro 3D reconstructed epidermis model and a combination of advanced analytical methods 利用体外三维重建表皮模型和先进的分析方法，研究太阳辐照对脂质组动力学和破坏的影响。

IF 2.5 4区医学 Q2 DERMATOLOGY

International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Pub Date : 2025-06-06 DOI: 10.1111/ics.13077

Carine Jacques, Maureen Feucherolles, William Le, Jérôme Bour, Camille Boudet, Gautier Doat, Gilles Frache, Hélène Duplan

Objective

Solar irradiation can lead to harmful effects such as skin ageing and cancer. Therefore, the aim of this work was to provide a better understanding of the skin composition and the molecular mechanisms underlying solar-induced damage.

Methods

We measured the impact of sun exposure on the lipidome of a 3D reconstructed human epithelial (RHE) in vitro model, as well as the protective role of a commercial SPF50+ sunscreen on the lipid modulations. MALDI-MSI was used to locate several lipids identified using LC–MS/MS to determine changes in their distribution in the epidermis.

Results

There were 252 lipids in RHE models deregulated by irradiation, including multiple phospholipid classes, triacylglycerols, diacylglycerols, sphingolipids, and ceramides. Of these, only four were still modulated when the sunscreen was applied prior to irradiation. MALDI-MSI imaging of control RHE sections alongside optical images detected 4115 lipids which were tentatively identified using the LipidMaps database associated with distinct areas in the tissue. One key lipid linked to keratinocyte differentiation during photoaging, 25-hydroxycholesterol, was present in low levels in control RHE models but increased significantly after irradiation. The increase was prevented by applying sunscreen prior to irradiation.

Conclusion

A combination of LC–MS/MS and MALDI-MSI enabled the analysis of lipids involved in key pathways altered by irradiation, as well as their location in the epidermis. Importantly, the SPF50+ sunscreen exhibited a protective effect on the epidermis lipidome against modulations due to irradiation. This technology will enable biomarker and pathway-specific events in the epidermis to be monitored after different treatments.

目的：太阳辐射可导致皮肤老化和癌症等有害影响。因此，这项工作的目的是更好地了解皮肤成分和太阳引起的损伤的分子机制。方法：我们测量了阳光照射对体外3D重建人类上皮（RHE）模型脂质组的影响，以及SPF50+商用防晒霜对脂质调节的保护作用。MALDI-MSI用于定位几种脂质，这些脂质是用LC-MS/MS鉴定的，以确定它们在表皮中的分布变化。结果：RHE模型经辐照解除调控后，有252种脂类，包括多种磷脂类，三酰甘油、二酰甘油、鞘脂和神经酰胺。其中，只有四个在照射前涂抹防晒霜时仍然被调制。对照RHE切片的MALDI-MSI成像与光学图像一起检测到4115种脂质，这些脂质通过与组织中不同区域相关的LipidMaps数据库初步确定。在对照RHE模型中，与光老化过程中角质细胞分化相关的一种关键脂质25-羟基胆固醇水平较低，但在辐照后显著增加。这种增加是通过在照射前涂抹防晒霜来防止的。结论：结合LC-MS/MS和MALDI-MSI，可以分析辐照改变的关键通路中涉及的脂质及其在表皮中的位置。重要的是，SPF50+的防晒霜对表皮脂质组有保护作用，防止辐射引起的调节。这项技术将使生物标志物和通路特异性事件在不同的处理后，在表皮被监测。

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引用次数: 0

Pterostilbene: A natural compound for anti-ageing in sebaceous gland cells and fibroblasts 紫檀芪：在皮脂腺细胞和成纤维细胞中抗衰老的天然化合物。

IF 2.5 4区医学 Q2 DERMATOLOGY

International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Pub Date : 2025-06-06 DOI: 10.1111/ics.13078

Ye Zhong, Qianqian Wang, Yongheng Wang, Rui Ye, Le Du, Fan Hu

Objective

The skin, as the largest organ of the body, plays a critical role in homeostasis and protecting against environmental stressors. Sebaceous glands (SGs) produce sebum, which forms a lipid barrier essential for preventing dehydration and defending against oxidative and microbial damage. However, ageing and environmental factors such as UV exposure and pollution impair SG function, leading to skin dryness and loss of radiance. Pterostilbene, a natural antioxidant with anti-inflammatory effects, has not been extensively studied for its potential impact on ageing SG cells. This study aims to investigate the protective effects of pterostilbene on SG function under UV-induced damage and its role in collagen repair in UV-exposed fibroblasts.

Methods

To examine the effects of pterostilbene on UVA-induced damage, an in vitro model of UV-exposed sebocytes was developed. The influence of pterostilbene on lipid synthesis, reactive oxygen species (ROS) levels and gene expression related to senescence and inflammation was assessed. In parallel, the effects of pterostilbene on collagen synthesis (types I and III) and ROS levels in UV-exposed fibroblasts were analysed. Super-resolution fluorescence microscopy was utilized to visualize collagen production and F-actin integrity in fibroblasts treated with pterostilbene.

Results

Pterostilbene increased lipid synthesis by 16% and reduced ROS levels by 62.43% in UV-damaged sebocytes. Gene expression analysis revealed upregulation of antioxidant genes (Nrf2, Sirt6) and downregulation of differentiation-related genes (Blimp1, c-Myc). In UV-exposed fibroblasts, pterostilbene significantly enhanced collagen types I and III levels and reduced ROS by 40.07%. High-resolution microscopy showed that pterostilbene restored the distribution of F-actin in fibroblasts affected by UVA.

Conclusion

This study demonstrates that pterostilbene effectively protects against UVA-induced damage in both sebocytes and fibroblasts. By promoting lipid synthesis, reducing oxidative stress, and stimulating collagen production, pterostilbene presents a promising natural ingredient for anti-ageing skincare formulations. Its multifunctional mechanisms suggest its potential to enhance skin health by supporting sebaceous gland function and improving overall skin resilience.

目的：皮肤作为人体最大的器官，在体内平衡和抵御环境压力方面起着至关重要的作用。皮脂腺（SGs）产生皮脂，形成脂质屏障，对防止脱水和防御氧化和微生物损害至关重要。然而，老化和环境因素，如紫外线暴露和污染损害SG功能，导致皮肤干燥和失去光泽。紫檀芪是一种具有抗炎作用的天然抗氧化剂，但其对衰老的SG细胞的潜在影响尚未得到广泛研究。本研究旨在探讨紫檀芪对紫外线损伤成纤维细胞SG功能的保护作用及其在胶原修复中的作用。方法：以紫檀芪为研究对象，建立体外uva暴露皮脂细胞模型，观察紫檀芪对uva损伤的影响。评估紫檀芪对脂质合成、活性氧（ROS）水平及衰老和炎症相关基因表达的影响。同时，分析了紫檀芪对暴露于紫外线下的成纤维细胞中胶原合成（I型和III型）和ROS水平的影响。利用超分辨率荧光显微镜观察经紫檀芪处理的成纤维细胞的胶原生成和f -肌动蛋白完整性。结果：紫檀芪使紫外线损伤的脂质合成增加16%，使ROS水平降低62.43%。基因表达分析显示抗氧化基因Nrf2、Sirt6上调，分化相关基因Blimp1、c-Myc下调。紫檀芪可显著提高I型和III型胶原水平，降低ROS 40.07%。高分辨率显微镜显示，紫檀芪恢复了受UVA影响的成纤维细胞中f -肌动蛋白的分布。结论：紫檀芪对uva诱导的皮脂细胞和成纤维细胞损伤均有保护作用。通过促进脂质合成，减少氧化应激，刺激胶原蛋白的产生，紫檀芪是一种很有前途的抗衰老护肤配方的天然成分。它的多功能机制表明，它有可能通过支持皮脂腺功能和改善整体皮肤弹性来增强皮肤健康。

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引用次数: 0

Enhancement of water homeostasis by glycerol and urea in stratum corneum and the difference in the activity between them 甘油和尿素对角质层水分稳态的增强及其活性的差异。

IF 2.5 4区医学 Q2 DERMATOLOGY

International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Pub Date : 2025-05-21 DOI: 10.1111/ics.13069

Ryosuke Toyoshima, Kenji Murashima, Ichiro Hatta

Objective

To investigate the role of glycerol and urea in water-holding mechanisms in the stratum corneum (SC) using synchrotron X-ray diffraction and to clarify differences in activity.

Methods

Structural changes in human SC samples treated with water, glycerol, and urea aqueous solutions were measured during drying, focusing on the short lamellar, orthorhombic hydrocarbon-chain packing, and coiled-coil α-helix structure of the soft keratin, which are affected by water.

Results

During drying of the treated SC, the coiled-coil α-helix chain distance decreased due to the removal of bound water. The reduction rate was suppressed in the SC treated with glycerol, followed by those treated with urea. This result suggests that water binding via glycerol is strongest to soft keratin, followed by urea. Furthermore, for the short lamellar structure, we calculated the volume associated with the hydrocarbon chain, its head group, and water in the head group, from which we estimated the quantity of water removal. Initially, the volume was unchanged because no water was removed. Once the SC was treated with glycerol and urea, the volume-unchanged interval was longer than that in the SC treated with water alone. Therefore, glycerol and urea strengthened water retention within the water layer.

Conclusion

Taken together with the results obtained from the solid-state NMR analysis of the soft keratin, the present results indicate that glycerol enhances the retention of the maximum bound water of 25 wt% in the SC, whereas urea retains it somewhat weakly. Therefore, from the results of in vivo confocal Raman microscopy, which indicated that the water content near the surface of the normal skin is approximately 25 wt%, it is deduced that the maximum bound water content is strongly held at the skin surface with the aid of glycerol or urea. On the other hand, it was found that the lipid lamellar structure serves to regulate the water content to maintain it at 25 wt% and glycerol and urea work to enhance this regulation mechanism. Owing to the above two mechanisms, the water content at the skin surface is maintained at 25 wt% homeostatically, and the homeostatic state is strengthened by glycerol and urea.

目的：利用同步x射线衍射研究甘油和尿素在角质层（SC）持水机制中的作用，并阐明其活性差异。方法：测定经水、甘油和尿素水溶液处理的SC样品在干燥过程中的结构变化，重点研究软角蛋白的短片层状、正方烷烃链填料和卷曲α-螺旋结构受水的影响。结果：处理后的SC在干燥过程中，由于去除结合水，线圈α-螺旋链距离减小。甘油处理抑制了SC的还原速率，其次是尿素处理。这一结果表明，水通过甘油对软角蛋白的结合是最强的，其次是尿素。此外，对于短层状结构，我们计算了烃链、首基团和首基团中水的相关体积，并由此估计了水的去除率。最初，体积是不变的，因为没有水被除去。经甘油和尿素处理后，SC的体积不变时间比单独用水处理的SC的体积不变时间长。因此，甘油和尿素加强了水层内的保水性。结论：结合软角蛋白的固态核磁共振分析结果，目前的结果表明，甘油提高了SC中最大结合水的保留率为25 wt%，而尿素的保留率较弱。因此，体内共聚焦拉曼显微镜的结果表明，正常皮肤表面附近的水含量约为25 wt%，由此推断，在甘油或尿素的帮助下，皮肤表面的最大结合水含量被强烈地保持在皮肤表面。另一方面，脂质层状结构可以调节水分含量，使其保持在25 wt%，甘油和尿素可以增强这一调节机制。由于上述两种机制，皮肤表面的含水量维持在25 wt%的稳态，甘油和尿素加强了稳态。

{"title":"Enhancement of water homeostasis by glycerol and urea in stratum corneum and the difference in the activity between them","authors":"Ryosuke Toyoshima, Kenji Murashima, Ichiro Hatta","doi":"10.1111/ics.13069","DOIUrl":"10.1111/ics.13069","url":null,"abstract":"<div>\u0000 \u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Objective</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>To investigate the role of glycerol and urea in water-holding mechanisms in the stratum corneum (SC) using synchrotron X-ray diffraction and to clarify differences in activity.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Methods</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Structural changes in human SC samples treated with water, glycerol, and urea aqueous solutions were measured during drying, focusing on the short lamellar, orthorhombic hydrocarbon-chain packing, and coiled-coil α-helix structure of the soft keratin, which are affected by water.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Results</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>During drying of the treated SC, the coiled-coil α-helix chain distance decreased due to the removal of bound water. The reduction rate was suppressed in the SC treated with glycerol, followed by those treated with urea. This result suggests that water binding via glycerol is strongest to soft keratin, followed by urea. Furthermore, for the short lamellar structure, we calculated the volume associated with the hydrocarbon chain, its head group, and water in the head group, from which we estimated the quantity of water removal. Initially, the volume was unchanged because no water was removed. Once the SC was treated with glycerol and urea, the volume-unchanged interval was longer than that in the SC treated with water alone. Therefore, glycerol and urea strengthened water retention within the water layer.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 \u0000 <section>\u0000 \u0000 <h3> Conclusion</h3>\u0000 \u0000 <p>Taken together with the results obtained from the solid-state NMR analysis of the soft keratin, the present results indicate that glycerol enhances the retention of the maximum bound water of 25 wt% in the SC, whereas urea retains it somewhat weakly. Therefore, from the results of in vivo confocal Raman microscopy, which indicated that the water content near the surface of the normal skin is approximately 25 wt%, it is deduced that the maximum bound water content is strongly held at the skin surface with the aid of glycerol or urea. On the other hand, it was found that the lipid lamellar structure serves to regulate the water content to maintain it at 25 wt% and glycerol and urea work to enhance this regulation mechanism. Owing to the above two mechanisms, the water content at the skin surface is maintained at 25 wt% homeostatically, and the homeostatic state is strengthened by glycerol and urea.</p>\u0000 </section>\u0000 </div>","PeriodicalId":13936,"journal":{"name":"International Journal of Cosmetic Science","volume":"47 5","pages":"864-876"},"PeriodicalIF":2.5,"publicationDate":"2025-05-21","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"144110559","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Indirubin as a red hair Colourant from Indigofera tinctoria L. 靛玉红作为红发色素的研究。

IF 2.5 4区医学 Q2 DERMATOLOGY

International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Pub Date : 2025-05-21 DOI: 10.1111/ics.13076

Skrollan Klaas, Volkmar Vill, Fabian Straske

Objective

Detailed understanding of the indigo and indirubin synthesis pathway to control their formation and the corresponding colour result on hair should be obtained. Managing the formation of the dye molecules indigo and indirubin the characteristic colour shift which takes place within the days after application of Indigofera tinctoria L.-based hair colouration should be eliminated. Thus, intense, more reliable and stable colour results on hair from the natural resource I. tinctoria L. are achieved offering benefits to the consumer resulting in higher acceptance of plant-based colouration products.

Methods

Various colourations with I. tinctoria L. crushed leaves powder and cysteine, isatin or ascorbic acid on yak hair strands were carried out at room temperature or 37°C. Colour assessment was conducted with L*-, a*-, and b*-values/coordinates of three-dimensional CIE-Lab-colour. Coloured hair strands were pulverized with a ball mill to extract dyeing compounds from hair fibres with either a mixture of ultrapure water and acetonitrile or dimethyl sulfoxide at 80°C. Afterwards, the supernatant was collected, and dyeing compounds were quantified via high-performance liquid chromatography.

Results

It was proven that delayed development of indirubin in addition to the directly formed indigo molecule leads to the observed colour shift on hair fibres when dyeing them with I. tinctoria L. Further, a previously unseen, immediate formation of a stable red colour result was achieved by introducing isatin and cysteine or ascorbic acid to the dyeing procedure. By extraction and subsequent analysis of the dye molecules from the coloured hair fibres, it was confirmed that the addition of isatin and a reducing agent to indigo dyeing prevents the formation of the indigo molecule and favours the formation of indirubin.

Conclusion

Based on the findings, including the instant formation of indirubin instead of the indigo molecule in the presence of isatin and cysteine or ascorbic acid causing an immediate stable red colour result after the application of I. tinctoria L. on hair, a revised indigo and indirubin synthesis pathway for I. tinctoria L. application including the effect of said additives to the colour outcome is presented.

目的：详细了解靛蓝和靛玉红的合成途径，控制其形成，获得相应的发色效果。控制染料分子靛蓝和靛玉红的形成，应消除使用靛玉蓝l基染发剂后几天内发生的典型色移。因此，从自然资源I. tinctoria L.获得强烈，更可靠和稳定的头发颜色结果，为消费者带来好处，从而提高对植物性着色产品的接受度。方法：在室温或37℃条件下，用紫花苜蓿碎叶粉和半胱氨酸、isatin或抗坏血酸对牦牛毛进行各种染色。采用三维cie - lab - color的L*-、a*-和b*-值/坐标进行颜色评价。染色的头发用球磨机粉碎，用超纯水和乙腈或二甲亚砜的混合物在80°C下从头发纤维中提取染色化合物。收集上清液，高效液相色谱法定量染色化合物。结果：已经证明，靛玉红的延迟发育以及直接形成的靛蓝分子导致头发纤维在用I. tinctoria l染色时观察到的颜色变化。此外，通过在染色过程中引入靛玉红和半胱氨酸或抗坏血酸，可以实现以前未见过的，立即形成稳定的红色结果。通过对染色头发纤维中染料分子的提取和随后的分析，证实在靛蓝染色中加入isatin和还原剂可以阻止靛蓝分子的形成，而有利于靛红色的形成。结论：基于研究结果，包括靛玉红在靛玉素和半胱氨酸或抗坏血酸存在下立即形成靛玉红而不是靛玉红分子，在靛玉红应用于头发后立即产生稳定的红色结果，提出了靛玉红应用的靛玉红和靛玉红合成途径，包括所述添加剂对颜色结果的影响。

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引用次数: 0

The effects of caffeine and adenosine on the microbiome and lipidome of the scalp 咖啡因和腺苷对头皮微生物组和脂质组的影响。

IF 2.5 4区医学 Q2 DERMATOLOGY

International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Pub Date : 2025-05-21 DOI: 10.1111/ics.13072

Fengzhu Li, Shulin Liu, Zhaoying Han, Yingtian Li, Haowei Chen, Qingying Shi, Jie Tan, Xihong He, Xinyan Liu, Huabing Zhao, Fang Wang

Hair loss is a complex multifactorial process. The mechanisms by which caffeine and adenosine act against hair loss have been extensively researched, but little is known about their effects on the microbiome and lipidome of the scalp. Hair loss may be associated with the status of scalp microbiota and lipids. Further investigation is warranted to determine whether caffeine and adenosine can regulate scalp microbiota and lipids and thus help to prevent hair loss. The objective of this study was to assess the effect of shampoo containing caffeine and adenosine on the scalp microbiome and lipidome in subjects experiencing hair loss who were aged between 18 and 60 years. The study was a randomized, single-blind and parallel comparison trial involving full scalp treatment, which was conducted among 30 subjects experiencing hair loss. Samples were collected from subjects at baseline and at 12 weeks (±3 days). Microbiomes were analysed via 16S rDNA and ITS1 sequencing. Lipidome analysis was carried out using ultra-high performance liquid chromatography–tandem mass spectrometry (UPLC-MS/MS). At 12 weeks, significant clinical characteristics indicating an anti-hair loss effect were evident. Abundances of Pseudomonas, Escherichia-Shigella and Malassezia all decreased in the experimental group, whereas those of Talaromyces and Cutibacterium increased. In addition, levels of triglyceride (TG), diglyceride (DG), ceramide (Cer) and ceramide-1-phosphate (CerP) were all significantly impacted in the experimental group. Furthermore, abundances of lipid metabolites were tightly correlated with those of Escherichia-Shigella and Talaromyces. Caffeine and adenosine may enhance the anti-hair loss process through their effects on the lipidome and microbiome of the scalp.

脱发是一个复杂的多因素过程。咖啡因和腺苷对抗脱发的机制已经得到了广泛的研究，但对它们对头皮微生物群和脂质组的影响知之甚少。脱发可能与头皮微生物群和脂质状况有关。需要进一步的研究来确定咖啡因和腺苷是否可以调节头皮微生物群和脂质，从而有助于防止脱发。本研究的目的是评估含有咖啡因和腺苷的洗发水对18至60岁脱发受试者头皮微生物组和脂质组的影响。该研究是一项随机、单盲、平行比较试验，涉及全头皮治疗，在30名脱发受试者中进行。在基线和12周（±3天）时从受试者中采集样本。通过16S rDNA和ITS1测序分析微生物组。脂质组分析采用超高效液相色谱-串联质谱（UPLC-MS/MS）进行。12周时，显著的临床特征表明抗脱发效果明显。实验组假单胞菌、志贺氏埃希菌和马拉色菌的丰度均下降，而塔氏菌和革氏菌的丰度增加。此外，实验组的甘油三酯（TG）、二甘油三酯（DG）、神经酰胺（Cer）和神经酰胺-1-磷酸（CerP）水平均受到显著影响。此外，脂质代谢产物丰度与志贺氏埃希菌和塔拉芳香菌的丰度密切相关。咖啡因和腺苷可以通过对头皮的脂质组和微生物组的影响来增强抗脱发的过程。

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引用次数: 0

Characterizing the skin of Thai women and its glow by combining consumer assessments and instrumental methods 通过结合消费者评估和仪器方法来描述泰国女性的皮肤及其光泽。

IF 2.5 4区医学 Q2 DERMATOLOGY

International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Pub Date : 2025-05-20 DOI: 10.1111/ics.13071

Rashmi Kelkar, Rima Rakshit, Hemali Pandya, Mohammedali Sajun, Neha Sirkek, Agrawal Divya, Muller Benoit, Flament Frederic

Background

The main objective of this research work is to understand how skin glow is perceived by women in Thailand. As the market is so rapidly evolving the consumers are clear about their expectations from skin care cosmetic products where they expect glowing skin as a key benefit with whatever skin colour they have.

Aims

To decode glow understanding of Thai women

Materials and Methods

A hybrid consumer and instrumental evaluation study done on Thai women with qualitative interviews of glow-seeking women and then capturing the skin colour, kinetics using instruments before and after using their skincare routine.

Results

The research helped to decode that in the Thai women population, dry skin is less prevalent as they perceived their skin to be dry (Corneometer value < 40), while 91% of the population perceived their skin to be normal, with a capacitance value ranging 55–62 units. In terms of skin colour of these women, it represents skin tone clusters Light warm, Light cool and Medium tones.

Discussion

From this research, we also understand the attributes linked to ideal skin glow are shine, suppleness and even skin, along with what key product deliverables are required to meet the consumer expectation.

Conclusion

The present study indicates some specificities of Thai consumers, whose expectations seem slightly different from other Asian needs. However this work is limited only to the immediate effects of cosmetic products. It is worth investigating further the long-term effects on the evolution of glow, the efficacy of different products that can best improve the facial glow to address the skin concerns and its correlation with the routine that is relevant to consumers.

背景：本研究工作的主要目的是了解泰国女性如何感知皮肤光泽。随着市场的迅速发展，消费者很清楚他们对护肤化妆品的期望，他们希望无论肤色如何，都能焕发光彩。目的：解读泰国女性对容光焕发的理解材料和方法：对泰国女性进行了一项混合消费者和仪器评估研究，对追求容光焕发的女性进行了定性访谈，然后在使用护肤程序之前和之后使用仪器捕捉皮肤颜色和动力学。研究结果：该研究有助于解读泰国女性人群中皮肤干燥的情况，因为她们认为自己的皮肤干燥（Corneometer值）讨论：从这项研究中，我们还了解到与理想皮肤光泽相关的属性是光泽、柔韧性和皮肤，以及需要哪些关键产品交付才能满足消费者的期望。结论：目前的研究表明泰国消费者的一些特殊性，他们的期望似乎与其他亚洲需求略有不同。然而，这项工作仅限于化妆品的直接影响。值得进一步研究的是对光泽演变的长期影响，不同产品的功效，可以最好地改善面部光泽，以解决皮肤问题，以及与消费者相关的日常生活的关系。

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引用次数: 0